The sun is a full-spectrum light source, which means all light frequencies are present, including those humans can’t see. Higher frequencies, which are those above the visible spectrum, make up ultraviolet (beyond violet) light. Having the most energetic frequencies, UV light can wrinkle your skin, give you sunburn, damage your eyes and even give you skin cancer. But does UV light kill mold, and if so, is it the most effective way to do it?

Let’s find out with the help of Forrest Webber, an electrician who founded a cleaning company, and HVAC expert Kevin Goude.

Does UV Light Kill Mold?

“Yes,” says Webber. “It messes with the DNA of the mold spores, rendering them unable to reproduce and party all over your basement.” To understand why, you need a little help from the science you may remember from high school.

Light isn’t exactly a wave in the conventional sense, but it behaves like one, and it has a wavelength. Ultraviolet light has a short wavelength, which means it has a high frequency, and according to an equation made famous by physicist Max Planck (Energy = h x frequency, where “h” is a minuscule number called Planck’s constant), high-frequency light is high-energy light. That’s why UV light can damage and kill mold spores, whereas visible and infrared light can’t.

How long does it take to kill mold with UV light?

If you use an artificial UV light source, whether the light can kill mold depends on the intensity of the source, its frequency of the light and the distance between the light source and the mold. According to Dara Greany, CEO of LEDLightExpert.com, it takes an average of 90 minutes to kill mold with UV light, but it can take three to five hours if you have a weak light source and a room full of mold to kill.

What Type of UV Light Kills Mold?

“UV-C light can be effective at killing mold spores,” says Webber. So what’s UV-C light? Consider that there’s an entire spectrum of UV radiation, from barely visible violet light to highly energetic X-rays, gamma rays and beyond. Scientists divide the UV spectrum into three classes: UV-A, UV-B and UV-C. UV-A radiation is closest to the visible spectrum and has the lowest energy while UV-C is farthest from visible light and has the highest energy.

The sun showers the earth with all three classes of ultraviolet radiation, but UV-C is so energetic that it interacts with the atmospheric ozone layer, and most of it gets absorbed (which is a good thing, or we’d all be toast). Because it has so much energy, UV-C radiation has proven effective for killing viruses, bacteria and mold, but because it doesn’t occur naturally at ground level, it has to be artificially produced. Accordingly, there are several types of lamps on the market today that generate UV-C radiation.

What Type of Mold Does UV Light Kill?

Does UV light kill mold? Yes, but the problem is that it has to be able to contact the organisms directly. Webber puts it like this: “Mold is a sneaky little thing. It likes to hide in places where the light doesn’t shine (insert joke here). So unless your mold problem is lounging somewhere in the direct line of fire, UV light might not reach it, and those spores will just keep plotting their grand comeback. Think of UV light as a laser pointer in a game of whack-a-molegreat for the ones it hits, but it won’t reach the sneaky spores deep in the walls or under the carpet.”

Are There More Effective Alternatives to Kill Mold?

“I don’t recommend relying on UV lights as your only solution for mold control,” warns Goude. Instead, he suggests using it as a supplemental mold control method, not the main one. So what’s the main one? “You need to lower indoor humidity to 50 percent or below by fixing any plumbing leaks, improving ventilation with open windows and exhaust fans, and ensuring good air circulation with ceiling fans.”

Depriving new mold colonies of moisture will prevent them from growing, but what to do about existing colonies? Webber recommends using what he calls the Dynamic Duo: “Vinegar is your best friend. It’s cheap, it’s non-toxic, and mold hates it. Mix white vinegar with water and go to town on moldy surfaces.”

You’ve probably heard that bleach effectively kills mold and there’s plenty of evidence that it does but its high surface tension prevents it from penetrating porous surfaces and getting to the roots. Consequently, when you use it to clean mold from wood and stone, there’s a good chance the mold grows back. Vinegar has no such issue, but if you don’t have any, you can do what the EPA recommends: Clean moldy surfaces with detergent and water and dry them thoroughly.

About the Experts

• Forrest Webber became an electrician after graduating from Tulane University. He subsequently became an electrician and later founded Alabama-based Bear Brothers Cleaning.
• Kevin Goude is the owner of First Choice Heating & Air, a South Carolina company specializing in HVAC maintenance and repair.

Sources

• Greany, Dara: UV Lights How Do They Kill, and How Long Does It Take a UV-C Light to Kill?; 2023.
• U.S. Environmental Protection Agency: What Are the Basic Mold Cleanup Steps?; 2024.
• Eco Flood & Mold Remediation: Never Use Bleach to Treat, Clean or Kill Mold? Read Why!; 2021.

The post UV Light for Mold Removal: Does It Really Work? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Glow in the Dark Trunk Handles

The reason for these illuminating handles is grim but practical: they’re an emergency release designed to open the trunk if someone is stuck or trapped inside. Typically, these handles are made out of a glow-in-the-dark material so they can be easily spotted when the trunk is closed.

The idea for a technology like this can be traced back to the 1980s when a man named William Proehl requested the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) make emergency trunk handles required by law. Proehl’s idea did not gain much momentum at the time due to a lack of safety data around the topic. But as time went on, more and more cases of kidnappings, trapped children and heat stroke stacked up.

By 2002, a law was passed requiring auto manufacturers to include emergency trunk releases in all vehicles. Proehl was named as the petitioner in the NHTSA’s official ruling, which read:

“The petitioner stated that persons such as alarm and stereo installers, mechanics, playful children, pranksters, and crime victims may be trapped in the trunk. The petitioner also believed that an elderly person might fall into the trunk and thereby become entrapped. Mr. Proehl asked NHTSA to require an inside trunk release in all new cars to facilitate the release of these victims.”

How Do You Use An Emergency Trunk Release?

Emergency trunk releases are designed to be as simple to use as possible. Just find the glowing handle and pull; the trunk latch will release, freeing whoever is stuck inside. Next time you open your trunk, take a second to locate your emergency trunk release. You never know when you’ll need it.

Source

Federal Register, “Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards; Interior Trunk Release“, 2000

The post Do You Know Why Cars Have a Glow in the Dark Handle Inside the Trunk? appeared first on Family Handyman.

“As people adopt more automated systems like smart thermostats, smoke detectors and air purifiers traditional, unconnected devices like exhaust fans fall out of regular inspection and maintenance routines,” says Jon Gilbertson, president of Chris Heating & Cooling. “This gap creates a hidden vulnerability in what we think of as safe.”

This viral TikTok video from the wife of a firefighter points out how dust accumulates over the years in our bathroom fans, and how that creates what she defines as the “number one fire danger in your house.”

@unhingedreviewswjess Google will tell you the most common house fire is a kitchen fire. That may be the most common way fired get *started* in houses, but not how they burn to the ground. RJ said kitchen fires are usually put out by the time they arrive on scene. Its not only RJs opinion that this is the most dangerous fire in your home, but I met a retired FF who was working as a Fire Safety guy that worked for the city that 100% agreed with him. Exhaust fans accumulate sooo much dust and dirt over the years. I prefer to replace them over cleaning them. Theyre not terribly expensive or difficult to replace. A lot easier than replacing your home, and not to mention everything in it!! Stay safe, friends. #firefighter #firefightertiktok #firefighters #homeimprovement #renovation #diyproject #homeproject #homerenovation Suspense, horror, piano and music box – takaya

Here’s what can go wrong with bathroom exhaust fans, and how to prevent them from starting a fire in your home.

How Do Exhaust Fans Become a Fire Hazard?

This happens partly because we often overlook cleaning bathroom exhaust fans. They tend to accumulate dust. As that builds up on the fan blades and vents, the motor has to work harder to move air, which can cause it to overheat and cause the bearings to wear. All of this has the potential to spark a fire, especially if the motor shorts out.

Overusing the fan adds to the danger. “Because they’re almost always plugged in, any damage in the wiring or circuit can cause sparks that can spread into a fire,” says Timothy Wood, founder of Fix It Today.

Old and improperly installed wiring can also create problems, especially if the insulation on the wires degrades or the connections loosen. Gilbertson says this danger can be compounded by bathrooms’ high humidity.

Why Are Exhaust Fan Fires So Dangerous?

Exhaust fan fires commonly get out of control because they start above the ceiling, out of view and out of reach from fire detectors. In a confined area, like an attic, they are also likely to ignite insulation and other materials. Besides causing structural damage, those can create toxic smoke that seeps into living areas.

Exhaust fan fires are “particularly dangerous because the fan’s design and placement create a chimney effect,” says Gilbertson. “When a fire starts in or near the fan, the heat naturally rises through nearby ductwork, amplifying the fire’s intensity and allowing flames to move quickly into other parts of the home.”

How to Avoid Exhaust Fan Fires

We don’t want to get rid of our exhaust fans, since they keep our bathrooms from getting moldy, but we can keep them from being dangerous by:

• Making sure the vent pipe, discharge end and fan blade are free from obstruction;
• Cleaning the system out annually and checking wires and circuits for signs of wear and damage. To clan them properly, remove the exhaust fan cover and use a brush or vacuum to remove any debris from both sides of the cover and any accessible portion of the fan housing, says Kevin Busch, president at Dryer Vent Wizard.
• Checking installation, with the exhaust fan vent pipe being less than 15 feet;
• Installing a newer fan, with thermal protection, which shuts down if the fan overheats;
• Making sure they’re properly vented, with exhaust not going directly into the attic, but rather outside of the home through a wall, soffit or roof.

“We find many bath fans that are not exhausted using the proper materials, which can allow fires to burn through the venting increasing the risk of a fire spreading,” says Busch.

Also, it’s very important to use exhaust fans in moderation and turn them off promptly. “Put the fan on a timer that only allows 30 minutes of use at a time,” says Todd Tripp, a home improvement expert with JustAnswer.com. “This lets the fan cool down and not run constantly as fans are easily left on continuously.”

Wood also recommends providing a dedicated circuit for the exhaust fan to avoid overloading. “If you must connect it to a circuit that services several other devices, make sure the total load doesn’t exceed that circuit’s capacity,” he says.
Lastly, consider installing a humidity sensor fan that runs only when necessary. This will reduce wear and prevent constant dust buildup, says Gilbertson, “a smart, hands-off solution for busy households.”

About the Experts

• Timothy Wood is founder and CEO of Fix It Today, an online home repair scheduling and estimate service based in the Dallas-Fort Worth area.
• Todd Tripp is a general contractor and founder of Trip Mills Builders in upstate South Carolina, and a home improvement expert with JustAnswer.com.
• Jon Gilbertson is president and CEO at Chris Heating & Cooling, a family business based in Chicago, where he began his career as an HVAC technician in 2015.
• Kevin Busch is president of Dryer Vent Wizard, a Neighborly Company and national home service franchise specializing in professional dryer duct and vent cleaning, inspection, repair and maintenance services.

The post There’s a Hidden Fire Hazard in Your Bathroom You Might Be Ignoring appeared first on Family Handyman.

Easy-Carry Ladder

Ladders arent easy to carry. Theyre heavy and cumbersome, and youre likely to pinch your finger if youre not careful. To remedy this, I attach a drawer handle to the side of my step ladder. Now, I can easily carry it around with just one hand.

The post 17 Back-Saving Tips For Carrying Heavy Loads appeared first on Family Handyman.

According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission, about two-thirds of fire deaths in the United States take place in homes without working smoke alarms.Smoke detectors are the first line of defense when a fire breaks out in your home and the most critical fire safety element you have. So when you’re out getting more coffee to help your internal clock adjust to the time change, be sure to pick up some batteries, enough for every smoke detector in your house.

What’s the Time Change Got To Do With Smoke Alarm Batteries?

While discussing this bi-annual reminder, I did wonder how the switch between daylight savings time and standard time became associated with changing the batteries in smoke detectors.

There isn’t a direct connection between the time change and fire safety. Fire safety experts recommend changing the batteries in your smoke detectors every six months, which makes the annual Spring and Fall time changes a convenient, universal reference point for doing just that.

Back in 1995, the International Association of Fire Chiefs and the Energizer company partnered up to create the “Change Your Clocks, Change Your Batteries” campaign, making it semi-official and providing a catchy slogan to drive home the importance of this simple, potentially life-saving task. It’s a brilliant social marketing campaign, one that’s had a lasting impact since rolling out some three decades ago. Now, changing your smoke detector batteries is one of those essential home maintenance tasks, right up there with cleaning your gutters or changing your furnace filter.

How do you know if your smoke detector batteries need to be replaced?

While it’s a good idea to replace the batteries every six months, it’s possible that the life of the batteries you put in your smoke alarm won’t always line up with the calendar. If your smoke detector is making a high-pitched chirping sound every few seconds, that usually means the batteries are dying. Sometimes, the chirping sound can signal that the smoke alarm must be replaced.

How to test smoke detectors

While you’re changing the batteries, it’s important to test the smoke detector and make sure it’s working. To do that, just press and hold the test button. You should hear the siren after a second or two. If it sounds weak or quiet, that usually means the batteries are dying.

How often should you replace smoke detectors?

It’s recommended that your replace smoke detectors every 10 years, regardless of the brand or whether they’re battery-powered or hardwired. Combination smoke and carbon monoxide detectors must be replaced every five to 10 years, depending on when the CO2 detector expires.

What if I have a hard-wired smoke alarm?

A hardwired smoke detector is one that’s wired directly into your home’s electrical system. Connecting to the wiring in your house helps ensure that there’s an uninterrupted power supply going to your smoke alarm at all times. However, hardwired smoke detectors also have a battery backupsomething that’s important should the power in your home fail, like in the case of a natural disasterthat you should change on the six-month cycle. It’s important to regularly test your hardwired smoke detectors too.

How many smoke detectors do you need?

Local building codes may stipulate exactly how many smoke alarms a building is required to have, so be sure to check those. Regardless, fire safety experts recommend at least one smoke detector for every floor of your home (including basements and attics), one for each sleeping area and any hallways that bedrooms or sleeping areas open into.

The post What Do Smoke Alarms Have To Do With The Time Change? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Below, Lozano and I walk you through some common issues that you may run into when working on your own home. It’s not an exhaustive list! The NEC updates every three years, so verify with your local electrical inspector which code cycle your jurisdiction follows. Requirements apply to new construction and repairs, so you don’t have to rush out and fix everything. As always, call a licensed electrician if you need help.

Mislabeled Breakers

The NEC requires that circuit breakers be legibly marked so you know exactly what they do. Well, I don’t know about you, but I’ve never lived in a house where the breakers were labeled right. That’s a problem if you’re doing DIY electrical work or if you need to shut off a circuit quickly when there’s a problem.

Lozano says the easiest way to fix a poorly labeled breaker box is to ask a friend or family member to switch each breaker off one by one. When the lights or power go off in the room, you know what the breaker controls. (If you’re by yourself, you can use a radio, circuit tracer or receptacle tester.)

Label each breaker, or make a panel schedule and post it inside or adjacent to the door.

No Ground Fault Protection

If you’ve sold or bought a house or upgraded your kitchen, bathroom or garage, you’ve probably had an inspector flag a missing ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI), especially if your home is older. GFCIs protect you from electric shock, and they’re required in multiple places around your home where water is present.

Because GFCI requirements have expanded over time, many homes lack them, where the NEC currently requires them. To get your circuits up to code, there’s no need to install a GFCI in every outlet. Install one GFCI in the first outlet after the panel, and daisy chain the rest (these can be regular grounding-type receptacles). Or, put in a GFCI breaker.

• Pro tip: If your bathroom receptacles go out, and you can’t figure out why, look for a GFCI in another bathroom. The NEC allows bathrooms to be wired together, and because one GFCI receptacle can protect an entire circuit, you probably have one upstairs that’s tripped.

No Dedicated Circuit

Your kitchen sure would feel roomier if you ditched that countertop microwave and installed one over the stove, right? If you DIY the installation, resist the urge to tap off an existing circuit. Make sure you run a dedicated circuit, also called an individual branch circuit.

A built-in microwave/range hood combo, or any appliance “fixed in place” that shares a circuit with lights or countertop receptacles, must use less than 50% of the branch circuit rating, which in your kitchen is 20 amps. Even if you purchased a smaller over-the-range microwave, you’re cutting it close by staying under 10 amps.

Plus, if you plan to plug in your new microwave instead of hard-wiring it, the NEC requires a dedicated circuit, no matter the amp draw. Finally, over-the-range microwave manufacturers nearly always require dedicated circuits, and the NEC says you have to follow the listing and labeling instructions provided by the manufacturer.

Overloading Circuits

Let’s say you don’t want the hassle of DIYing a range hood. You’d rather free up space by putting your new microwave in a cabinet under the counter. Can you feed a new cabinet receptacle from the countertop receptacle directly above? Nope.

Kitchens (including adjoining areas like pantries and dining rooms) have two 20-amp small appliance branch circuits that supply your countertops, wall and floor receptacles and fridge (although many people put fridges on their own circuit). Everyone’s kitchen is different, so the NEC wants these small appliance circuits reserved for toasters, air fryers, coffee makers and other small portable countertop appliances.

Adding a new receptacle in a cabinet adds a permanently plugged-in load that could potentially overload your circuit.

Open Junction Boxes or No Box at All

Lozano sees these a lot. Junction boxes must be covered, and you can’t have splices made outside of a junction box. I once found several splices just dangling in a wall cavity, which I remedied by adding a box before the device I was installing.

The next house I moved to had open boxes in the attic. The splices were fine, so I added “blanks,” which are covers that don’t have any openings. If you’re doing a DIY project and come across any open junction boxes, you can do the same to bring them up to NEC safety requirements.

Permanent Extension Cords

When you work on a project in your garage, are you constantly stepping over multiple extension cords? Have they been there longer than you can remember? The NEC doesn’t allow extension cords to be used as a substitute for permanent wiring, so for your next DIY project, why not put in some new surface-mounted receptacles?

If you do add receptacles in your garage, consider the loads you’ll be using. New garages must have one 20-amp circuit, with one receptacle in each vehicle bay not more than 5 1/2 feet off the floor. Additional circuits can be 15 amps or greater.

Wrong Outdoor Receptacle Covers

Newly constructed homes must have two outdoor receptacles for plugging in lawn tools, holiday lights, and other electrical needs. (You may just have one, or even zero if your home is old enough.) These outdoor receptacles could be in “wet locations,” where they’re subject to weather or water intrusion, or “damp locations,” such as under porches and eaves.

The NEC requires that receptacles in damp locations be weatherproof when nothing is plugged in and that the receptacle covers be closed. In wet locations, the receptacle must be weatherproof even when the plug is inserted. Wet location covers are called “bubble covers” or “in-use” covers, and you can use them in damp locations, too.

When I moved into my home, I noticed the deck above did nothing to stop rain from dripping on the lower porch receptacle. So, I added in-use, weatherproof covers, and it’s an easy DIY project for you, too. “Weatherproof receptacle covers will go a long way in prolonging the life of the receptacle installation,” Lozano says.

Inaccessible GFCIs

“Installing GFCIs in a location that is hard to find or access can create headaches for homeowners and electricians alike,” Lozano says. A great example of this is behind a refrigerator. The NEC requires kitchen and garage receptacles to be GFCI-protected, but it’s very hard to move a fridge if the GFCI trips.

That’s why the NEC requires GFCIs to be installed in a readily accessible location. No climbing up ladders, no fumbling for a key, no moving something heavy. A great way to get around difficult placement, like a garage door opener on your ceiling, is to install a breaker or use one GFCI to feed other receptacles. “A tripped GFCI can affect a whole circuit, creating a real issue,” Lozano says.

No Neutral at Switch

Most switches don’t require a neutral to operate, so for decades, the NEC didn’t require electricians or homeowners to bring a neutral to switch boxes. But, today’s smart switches and dimmers have electronics, and most of them do need the neutral. The NEC now requires neutrals at switch boxes, or there must be a way to easily pull one later (like through a pipe).

But most homes aren’t piped with conduit. So if you’re DIYing an addition, it’s best to just bring one now, even if you don’t use it. If you’re adding smart switches to your older home, look for ones that don’t require a neutral (they do exist).

Improperly Replacing Non-Grounding Receptacles

I used to live in a very old house with knob-and-tube wiring. Knob-and-tube has two wires: hot and neutral. (No “ground wire,” more accurately called an equipment grounding conductor (EGC).) A previous homeowner got sick of having nowhere to plug in a three-prong plug and swapped out the two-slot, non-grounding type receptacles for three-slot, grounding-type ones.

That was a code violation. I had three ways to fix it:

1. Pull an ECG from the service panel to every outlet in the house. This is the best but most expensive option.
2. Put the non-grounding receptacles back. This is the cheapest, but I’d still have the three-prong problem.
3. Put in a GFCI, which would provide shock protection, accept a three-prong plug and be code-compliant. This is what I chose.

If you put in GFCIs like I did, the NEC requires that you label the front of the receptacle: “No Equipment Ground.” (Stickers come with the GFCI.) If you use one GFCI to control other grounding-type receptacles on the same circuit, label these “No Equipment Ground” and “GFCI Protected.”

Not Installing Tamper-Resistant Receptacles

Tamper-resistant receptacles are required everywhere in your house to keep kids from sticking things in the slots. You don’t have to run out and replace them if you don’t have them, but if you’re adding a new room or swapping out an old receptacle, make sure you buy tamper-resistant ones. (One exception is if you happen to be replacing a two-slot, non-grounding receptacle with another of the same type.)

Overfilling Electrical Boxes

The NEC has specific box fill requirements for junction boxes to minimize heat buildup. If you open a box during a DIY project and discover a packed box, put in a bigger one. “Wire nuts and connections can come loose when trying to fit everything inside of the box,” Lozano says, and if you’re using a metal box, “[wire] insulation can become damaged and leave wiring exposed.” That’s a fire waiting to happen.

Leaving Christmas Lights Up Too Long

Are you a Clark Griswold when it comes to Christmas lights? DIY holiday displays are becoming more and more common, with lights, sound and inflatables popping up way before Thanksgiving. Some people even extend that holiday spirit into a year-round affair, with Valentine’s, Halloween and Fourth of July decorations in every imaginable color and design.

Be aware that the NEC has a 90-day limit on “temporary installations” of holiday lights. Typical big-box lights aren’t made to withstand the elements forever. If you plan to light up your yard 365 days a year, invest in permanent lights that are listed for this purpose.

About the Expert

Chris Lozano is a master electrician and virtual electrical expert at Frontdoor, a home services app that connects you to on-staff, qualified experts to help you solve your home maintenance issues. It’s like telehealth for your home.

The post The Most Common National Electric Code Violations DIYers Run Into appeared first on Family Handyman.

This feature is a game-changer for road safety and community awareness. Whether you’re using an iPhone, Android phone, or your car’s smart display system, you can quickly alert others about accidents, road hazards, or heavy traffic. It’s like having a direct line to every driver in your area. The best part? It’s surprisingly simple, and we’ll show you exactly how to do it on each platform.

Safety Notes

But first, some safety notes! Your safety should always be the top priority when reporting incidents. Whenever possible, use voice commands to minimize distraction and keep your reports concise and factual. If you can’t use voice commands, never attempt to submit a report while actively driving instead, have a passenger report the incident or find a safe location to pull over before documenting any incidents.

Remember that the incident reporting feature is designed to help other drivers, but if you’re involved in or witness a situation requiring immediate assistance, your first action should be to contact emergency services rather than submitting a report.

Here’s your comprehensive guide to reporting incidents, no matter which device you prefer. (Note: You need to be using the Google Maps app on your device for these instructions to work.)

How To Report an Incident in Google Maps on Android Auto

• While navigating, select the report icon (shield symbol) on the right side of the screen.
• Select “Report Incident.”
• Tap the incident type from the options displayed accident, hazard, speed check, etc. (the report will submit automatically).
  • Optional: Add a voice note with details.

How To Report an Incident in Google Maps on Apple CarPlay

• While navigating, select the report icon (shield symbol).
  • You could also use the voice command option by saying: “Hey Siri, report an incident on CarPlay.”
• Choose the incident category (the report will submit automatically).

How To Report an Incident in Google Maps on an iPhone

• While navigating, tap “Report” on the bottom right of the screen.
• Select “Report Incident.”
  • You can also use the voice command: “Hey Siri, report an incident.”
• Tap the incident category (the report will submit automatically).

How To Submit an Incident Report in Google Maps on an Android Phone

• While navigating, tap “Report” in the bottom-right corner of the screen.
• Choose incident type (the report will submit automatically).

The post A New Feature Makes It Easy Report Traffic Incidents in Google Maps appeared first on Family Handyman.

Firefighters in Las Vegas, Nevada, echoed that warning this week in the wake of a deadly house fire that killed four people. Despite responding within five minutes of receiving the call, the fire department was unable to get through the front door because of the heat, according to a report from KSNV News in Las Vegas.

“It’s not unheard of for a fire to go that quickly, an official with the fire department told the local news. Fires, especially in modern homes, with modern finishes, that burn very hot.

Rather than natural fabrics, much upholstery found on furniture today is polyester fabric covering up cushions made of polyurethane foam. Lighter and cheaper tables, bookcases, television stands, etc. are often made from synthetic materials, too. And you’ll find plenty of other plastics, resins and other synthetic materials in everything from picture frames to electronics. Together, these materials make fires move much faster and burn as much as eight times hotter than in homes just a generation ago.

In addition to intensifying the heat from a fire and burning faster, those synthetic materials create more smoke than natural materials and contain toxic carcinogens. Smoke builds up faster as these materials burn, and the chemicals it contains stick around long after the flames have been extinguished.

In 2020, the Fire Safety Research Institute conducted an updated demonstration of just how quick and intense house fires can be because of these materials, an updated version of the test conducted by the FSRI in 2009. The FSRI did a side-by-side comparison lighting two, equally-sized rooms with nearly a identical setup, except one room contained furnishings made primarily from synthetic materials and the other using furniture made from natural materials to demonstrate the flashover times for each one. (FSRI defines flashover as “the transition phase in the development of a room fire in which fuel surfaces, exposed to thermal radiation from fire gases in excess of 600 degrees C (approximately 1100 degrees F), reach ignition almost simultaneously and fire spreads rapidly through the space.”)

In five different tests, the room containing furnishing made with natural materials reached flashpoint in just under 30 minutes, versus less than five minutes for the room setup with synthetic furnishings. In one trial, the room with synthetic furnishings reached the flashpoint in three minutes and 20 seconds. You can see the video of the experiment below.

Another risk factor common in modern homes is the open floor plan. With fewer barriers between rooms, fires are less contained because they’re not compartmentalized. Flames and smoke spread much faster when they ignite in larger, open areas. It also makes it harder for firefighters to control the fire.

Fire Safety

Understandably, it’s hard to avoid synthetic materials in your home entirely, and going out and replacing all of your furnishings in one swoop isn’t realistic for most of us. But there are steps you can take to help keep you safe.

Smoke detectors: Firefighters and fire safety experts all stress the importance of having working smoke detectors throughout your home. At a minimum, you should have a smoke alarm on every level of your house. It’s also a good idea to have one in each bedroom and one in any hallways that sleeping areas open into. Be sure to test your smoke alarms regularly and change the batteries twice a year, unless it’s hardwired.

Escape plan: Make sure you have fire escape plan with well-defined escape routes. You may need to plan different escape paths for different bedrooms and parts of the home. And make sure everyone in the house knows the escape plan and understands what to do in case of an emergency.

Fire-protected furniture: If you are looking for new furniture, curtains, etc., read and understand the label. Look for natural materials or fire-protected furniture. You can also look for products made under the Upholstered Furniture Action Council (UFAC) program or that meet the requirements laid out by the California Bureau of Home Furnishings.

Avoid fire risks: Be aware of the fire hazards in your home and take steps to avoid them. That includes measures like turning off space heaters when you’re not in the room with them and keeping them away from curtains, clothing, bedding, etc. Space heaters are one of the most common causes of house fires in the United States. You should also be aware of hazards like unprotected outlets and overloaded circuits, things than can cause electrical fires in your home.

The post Modern Furniture Materials and Open Floor Plans Are Making House Fires Worse appeared first on Family Handyman.

Cities in the United States are no exception. For the past ten years, Orkin has ranked the “Rattiest Cities In America,” releasing a list of American cities where requests for rodent treatment were most common.

What Is the Rattiest City in the U.S.?

The same city has been at the top of this list since its first edition and that did not change this year. For the tenth year in a row, Chicago took home the title of the Rattiest City in America.

“Chicago’s abundance of alleys provides rodents with hidden havens, offering plenty of space to hide while feasting on trash,” reads Orkin’s report. “Rodents also love to burrow, finding shelter beneath subway tracks or around underground pipes. In these hidden spots, the rodent population can grow if left unchecked.”

Here is the rest of the top fifteen:

Top Fifteen Rattiest Cities In the U.S.

1. Chicago, Ill.
2. Los Angeles, Calif.
3. New York, N.Y.
4. San Francisco, Cali.
5. Washington, D.C.
6. Denver, Colo.
7. Philadelphia, Pa.
8. Detroit, Mich.
9. Baltimore, Md.
10. Cleveland, Ohio
11. Minneapolis, Minn.
12. Boston, Mass.
13. Hartford, Conn.
14. Seattle, Wash.
15. Indianapolis, Ind

How To Prevent Rats

Rats become a major problem for many homeowners as summer ends and temperatures start to drop. Rodents look for two things: warm shelter and food sources. If you limit those in your home, you can limit your chances of a rat infestation.

Look out for holes in your foundation even a small crack can be enough for a family of rodents to infiltrate your walls. If you see or hear evidence of rats in your home droppings, scratching sounds, holes in food packaging immediately set traps and check for potential entry points. If the problem persists, don’t hesitate to call in the pros. A pro will have the tools to deal with the problem quickly and effectively.

Source:

PR Newswire, “This Year Marks a Decade of Chicago as the Rattiest City in America“, 2024

The post Ranking America’s Most Rat-Infested Cities. Did Yours Make the List? appeared first on Family Handyman.

The new FTC rules ban the sale or purchase of fake online reviews and give the Federal agency the power to seek civil penalties for any entity that knowingly violates the rule. In addition to prohibiting fake reviews, the rules include several other measures aimed at protecting consumers online. Those include bans on:

• Misleading testimonials generated by artificial intelligence or written by people who have no actual experience with the product, business or service, as well as those who misrepresent their experience.
• Reviews or testimonials from company officers, managers or other company insiders that fail to disclose their connection. That even includes when businesses solicit reviews or testimonials from relatives.
• Buying or selling social media followers or views generated by bots for commercial gain.
• Buying or selling of positive or negative reviews.
• Review suppression in which an entity uses unfounded legal or physical threats or other tactics designed to prevent or remove a negative review.
• Businesses that misrepresent a website or entity it controls by providing independent reviews or opinions about its own products or services.

You can read the full set of rules on the FTC website.

Fake reviews not only waste peoples time and money, but also pollute the marketplace and divert business away from honest competitors, FTC Chair Lina Khan, said in August when the rules were issued. By strengthening the FTCs toolkit to fight deceptive advertising, the final rule will protect Americans from getting cheated, put businesses that unlawfully game the system on notice, and promote markets that are fair, honest, and competitive, she added.

Anyone caught violating these rules could face a fine of $51,744 per violation. Enforcement could be a little tricky, but anyone who suspects a business of violating these rules can report it to the FTC on the web at reportfraud.ftc.gov. And I’ll be the first to tell you, please report it if you see it.

The new rules couldn’t have come at a better time. With generative AI at everyone’s fingertips and foreign bot farms on the rise, it’s never been easier for bad actors to make a quick buck selling you junk with a sheen of legitimacy thanks to four- or five-star ratings they didn’t actually earn.

It’s been a remarkably consumer-friendly period for the FTC lately. The agency recently announced a new “click-to-cancel” rule that makes it just as easy for to nix an automatic subscription, so you don’t get stuck paying for services you’re not using or wasting time navigating an impossible labyrinth of robocalls and hard-to-read websites to cancel those services.

To be sure, cracking down on bogus reviews isn’t going to be an easy, overnight fix, but having the rules in place will help us better navigate the world of online shopping.

The post FTC Bans Fake Product Reviews In Major Online Shopping Shakeup appeared first on Family Handyman.

Which Chrysler Vehicles Are Being Recalled?

On Oct. 10, Chrysler announced it is recalling approximately 31,676 Ram 1500 Classics from model years 2020 through 2023, according to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. If you own a Ram 1500 Classic from any of these model years, your vehicle might be affected.

Chrysler will begin sending out notification letters to owners starting Dec. 5.

Why Are These Vehicles Being Recalled?

The issue behind this recall involves the drivers side heated trailer tow rearview mirror: the glass in the mirrors can detach from the mirror housing.

If the mirror glass detaches, the drivers ability to see behind the vehicle is compromised, potentially leading to dangerous situations on the road. This issue also causes the vehicle to fail Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard number 111, which pertains to rear visibility.

What to Do If My Vehicle Is Recalled

If you own a Ram 1500 Classic from the affected model years, you should contact Chrysler to schedule a repair at your local dealer. Chrysler will replace the faulty mirror glass at no cost to you.

You can call Fiat Chrysler Automobiles customer service at 1-800-853-1403 to get started.

The post Chrysler Recalls Over 31,000 Trucks Due to Rearview Mirror Malfunction appeared first on Family Handyman.

Prioritize Safety

Before starting any cleanup after extreme weather, check for downed electrical wires, gas leaks or structural damage. Contact authorities if you notice any safety hazards. Wear protective gear like rubber gloves, boots and a mask. Avoid wading into floodwaters, as they may contain hidden dangers, waste and chemicals. If using a chainsaw to remove debris or trees, ensure the chain is properly tightened and that you’re familiar with its operation for safe use.

The post 10 Tips For Cleaning Up After a Hurricane Or Other Natural Disaster appeared first on Family Handyman.

What’s Wrong With the Fire Pits?

The Colsen fire pits have a fairly simple design. They are made from concrete and range from 5 to 18 inches wide. The pits have an open reservoir in the center meant to hold liquid alcohol as it burns. Unfortunately, this design creates an opportunity for what is known as “flame jetting” when the alcohol reservoir is being refilled.

“Flame jetting is a serious event that can occur while pouring alcohol, when fire flashes back to the alcohol container and suddenly propels burning alcohol out of the container and onto people nearby,” the CPSC detailed in the recall announcement. “Alcohol can also splash, spill or leak out of the fire pit reservoir during use, causing a flash fire that can spread and create larger hotter flames that can escape the unit.”

What To Do If You Have a Colsen Fire Pit

The CPSC recommends that anyone who owns a Colsen fire pit stop using the unit immediately and dispose of it. Federal law makes it illegal to sell or distribute recalled items, so disposal is the only option.

According to the CPSC, the firm selling these fire pits “stopped selling Colsen-branded fire pits less than one year after it acquired the product business and does not have the financial resources to offer a remedy to consumers.”

Customers can contact Colsen by email or on the web at colsenfirepits.com.

The post 89,000 Colsen Fire Pits Recalled After 19 People Suffer Burns appeared first on Family Handyman.

We spoke with three experts to learn how to identify mold’s distinct musty odor, how to find the source of the smell and what to do when you discover proliferating spores.

What Causes Mold?

“The most common causes of mold in homes are related to dampness and moisture,” Rob Weitz, a leading mold consultant, says. He explains that mold is a fungus that thrives on wet surfaces, feeding on materials like wallboard, fabric, or even fruit. “Mold spores, which are [naturally] airborne, settle on these damp areas and quickly begin to grow,” he says.

While unaddressed water damage is a major cause of mold growth, other common causes might not be so obvious. “Areas prone to moisture, like kitchens and bathrooms, are particularly vulnerable due to activities like cooking, washing dishes, and taking showers,” Weitz says. “Basements and crawl spaces, which tend to be damp or poorly ventilated, are also common sites for mold growth.”

Mold and air quality expert Michael Rubino explains that high indoor humidity levelsabove 60%promote mold growth. He lists roof problems, gutter leaks, appliance malfunctions, damaged pipes, structural issues, and poorly maintained HVAC systems as other common culprits for mold problems.

What Does Mold Smell Like?

We asked the experts, “What does mold smell like?” Jack White, Senior Director of Technical Services at Rainbow Restoration, said it typically emits a musty, damp, earthy smell, often compared to a sour odor like wet clothing left in a washing machine. “Black mold can have a stronger, pungent odor,” he says.

Rubino explains that the musty smell, which he describes as “cigar-like,” is caused by the release of microbial volatile organic compounds (mVOCs) as mold grows and breaks down materials like damp wood, paper and fabric.

Not all mold growth has a distinctive smell, and different types of mold can produce variations in odor. However, any odor intensifies as the mold problem worsens. “This stronger smell indicates the colony is growing and releasing more gasses and byproducts, including spores and mycotoxins,” Rubino says.

How to Find the Mold

If you can smell mold but can’t see it, check areas prone to moisture, such as bathrooms, basements, HVAC closets, and behind sinks and appliances. Also, be vigilant for signs such as chipping or peeling paint, water stains, warped walls or flooring and dampness. “The mold is likely hiding in places that aren’t immediately visible, such as behind drywall, wallpaper, ceiling tiles, under carpets, or around pipes,” Weitz says.

“Chronic health issues with seemingly no underlying cause can also indicate mold indoors,” Rubino says. “Spores, fragments, and mycotoxins are small enough to be inhaled, ingested, and absorbed into the body, potentially leading to adverse health reactions in those exposed.”

Some common symptoms of mold exposure include runny eyes and nose, itching, coughing, sneezing, breathing difficulties and headaches. Often, the symptoms abate when you leave home and start again when you return.

When Should I Call a Professional About the Mold Smell in My House?

If you can smell mold but can’t see it, the mold problem is extensive or hard to reach, or you suspect serious black mold, it’s best to call a professional to help you deal with the problem safely and effectively. “The only way to know the exact type and risk of the mold present is through a mold test conducted by an environmental inspector,” Weitz says. He cautions against hiring the same company to carry out mold testing and any required remediation work, saying it’s a conflict of interest for a company to do both.

The EPA advises against handling mold removal yourself when the problem extends over an area larger than 10 square feet. However, even when the problem is affecting a smaller space, if you aren’t experienced in properly containing mold, you could make the problem worse if you don’t remove all the spores. “Mold spores are lightweight and can spread easily, making it easy to unknowingly cross-contaminate different parts of the home,” Weitz explains.

If you are experiencing extensive water damage in your home, you will likely need prompt, professional assistance to dry things out before mold forms. “All it takes is 24-48 hours on a wet surface for some species to begin growing,” Rubino says.

Rubino suggests hiring professionals to deal with mold in areas such as basements, attics, crawlspaces, ceilings and under carpets. “The extent of contamination might be hidden, potentially affecting the subfloor or framing behind the visible mold,” he says.

The Institute of Inspection Cleaning and Restoration Certification is a good place to start when looking for a suitably qualified mold remediator.

About the Experts

Michael Rubino is a mold and air quality expert, environmental wellness advocate and founder of HomeCleanse; email interview, Oct. 10, 2024.

Rob Weitz is the principal at RTK Environmental Group and a leader in the field of testing and consulting in mold. He is a certified microbial investigator with 30+ years of knowledge; email interview, Oct. 10, 2024.

Jack White is the Senior Director of Technical Services at Rainbow Restoration, a Neighborly company. Rainbow are rapid response experts in disaster restoration, including mold removal; email interview, Oct. 11, 2024.

Sources

• EPA: “A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture and Your Home” (2023)

The post Is that Mold Your Are Smelling in Your House? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Knowing how essential phones can be in a crisis, certain manufacturers have now enabled devices to connect to a wireless signal even if no cellular service is available. Even if there is no cell service or WiFi, select newer models of iPhones and Androids can now connect directly to satellites in orbit and use that signal to contact the emergency services your situation requires.

Here’s what you need to do to connect your phone to a satellite during an emergency:

How To Connect an iPhone to Satellites

NOTE: Satellite connection is only available on iPhone 14 or later. Earlier models do not have this feature.

Open the connection assistant

There are two simple ways to open the Connection Assistant on an iPhone. The easiest is to swipe down on the top right corner of your phone, opening the Control Center. Then, tap the Cellular Button (which looks like a pole with signals coming from the top), tap “Satellite,” and then choose whether you want to send a message, update your location, request roadside assistance or send out an SOS.

Connecting to the satellite

Your satellite connection will work best outside in a place with a clear view of the sky and the horizon. If any tall, obstructive structures are in the area, your signal may be slower or blocked. If moving to the left or right would help strengthen the signal, your iPhone will notify you.

Your connection will likely be slower than a normal 4G cellular network. Be patient, and adjust as needed to keep your signal strong.

Also, don’t be alarmed if you check for these features and don’t see them pop up. You’ll only see the option to access satellite features if your phone cannot detect a cell network or a WiFi signal. If you want to test the satellite connection and learn how it works outside of an emergency setting, Apple has a Satellite Connection Demo you can try.

How To Connect an Android to Satellites

NOTE: Currently, the only Android model capable of connecting to satellites is the Google Pixel 9.

Make an SOS call

Connecting to a satellite is even easier on Google Pixel 9. If you’re in a location without WiFi or cellular service access, simply call 911 like you would normally. The Pixel will automatically give you the option to connect to a satellite to complete your SOS call. You can also set up emergency contacts in your phone, who will be immediately sent your location if you connect to a satellite.

The post Emergency Hack: Connect to Satellites When You Have No Cell Service appeared first on Family Handyman.

It can be hard to know how best to help, especially when many of the local organizations have also been hit hard. Aid can be broken down into a few major categories, and we’ve got links to some of the organizations that are providing help in the disaster zone. Give what you can, and encourage your friends and family to do the same.

Money

If you want to help but can’t volunteer or don’t have extra food and supplies on hand to donate, you can give financially. Give what you can and confirm that you’re sending it to a real person or organization first.

Direct Mutual Aid

If you personally know people who Hurricane Helene has hit, you can give directly to them so that they can secure food, water, and shelter as the cleanup process begins.

Donate to Organizers

Blue Ridge Public Radio (BPR) News put together a list of several organizations accepting donations to help facilitate rescue flights, gather food and supplies, provide support to those impacted, and more. These include:

• Operation Airdrop
• Foothills Food Club
• Henderson County
• Friends of Hot Springs Library

Food and Goods

Food banks are gathering resources for the victims. Check with the specific one you plan on donating to first. Some have had their own locations destroyed in the storm, and it’s also important to find out if they need specific food items. According to BPR News, some of the facilities accepting donations are:

• Hearts with Hands (Swannanoa/Asheville)
• Manna Foodbank in Asheville
• Haywood Christian Ministry
• Diaper Bank-Babies Need Bottoms in Asheville

Volunteering

If you have the time or equipment to help, you can also directly volunteer to help with relief efforts. BPR News’s list of organizations looking for volunteers includes:

• American Red Cross of North Carolina
• Americares Emergency Response Team
• Salvation Army of the Carolinas
• Samaritan’s Purse

Sources

• BPR News: Ways to donate and help flood victims in Western North Carolina after Hurricane Helene (2024)

The post How to Help After Hurricane Helene appeared first on Family Handyman.

The post Samsung Recalls Slide-In Electric Ranges Due to Fire Hazard appeared first on Family Handyman.

What Is Fire Season?

Fire season is the time of year when fire activity is most predominant. It generally encompasses the hottest, driest months of a region when humidity is low, and the brush is dying and drying out. In areas with seasonal winds, this is an extra dangerous season as the wind can drastically increase the speed at which a spark catches and a fire grows.

When is Fire Season?

Fitzgerald-McGowan explains fire season occurs at various times regionally due to factors like moisture patterns and elevation. Some regions experience a spring and a fall, while others follow the typical summer.

Fire seasons are also growing longer. Areas that have a summer fire season “used to call spring and fall ‘shoulder seasons,’ but were starting to see those shrink as the burn window extends with drought, higher temperatures, etc.,” Fitzgerald-McGowan says.

According to Masi, states like Arizona and New Mexico generally see fire season from February to July, while states further east, like Kentucky and Tennessee, have fire season in the fall months. However, some places technically have a fire season year-round. California, for example, has a hot and dry climate in most of the state. So, while the end of April to late October is typically the peak of fire season there, Masi recommends that residents practice fire safety at all times. Especially this year, which has been a record-breaking year in her district.

Fitzgerald-McGowan recommends checking your state’s natural resources or forestry organizations website and the local fire department to get the most accurate information possible.

How To Prepare for Fire Evacuations

Evacuation orders can sometimes come quickly. It’s a good idea to be prepared ahead of time so you and your family can get out safely.

Make Sure You Make an Evacuation Plan

Masi stresses the importance of having an evacuation plan, including these factors:

• Decide on your evacuation group. Which family and friends live with your or close by? Once you know who your group is, select a designated spot outside of your neighborhood to meet up with them, especially because cell towers may be compromised in large fires.
• Signing up for local alert systems like Genasys Protect and Ready Kern is a good idea. This way, you can stay up to date with the evacuation orders and monitor any other advice the agencies are giving out.

Fitzgerald-McGowan also recommends paying attention to local weather forecasts: “If they say red flag warning or red flag conditions, consider that a notice to be on high alert.” This way you’ll be able to move more quickly if the evacuation order goes out.

Have Your Go-Bag Ready

A go-bag is a bag of important items that you’ll need to save from a fire. You may not have time to grab everything and pack it all when an evacuation order is announced, so keeping the bag ready and handy is important.

When it comes to a go-bag, Masi says many people forget about their important paperwork. Fire safes will protect your documents up to a point, but they can still fail in hot enough blazes. If you’re opposed to keeping the originals in your go-bag, which should be in or near your car for easy access, then make copies of all the important paperwork (e.g., insurance, ID cards, marriage license, house deed, sentimental photos etc.).

Masi also suggests packing your prescription medications and spare phone chargers in your go-bag. Food and water are also good ideas. How much to keep on hand depends on where you live and how much space you have.

If you’re worried about forgetting things for your go-bag, Fitzgerald-McGowan suggests using checklists like the ones from the National Fire Protection Association or the Tahoe Fire Adapted Communities Create a Go-Bag.

Keep Air Quality in Mind

Smoke can travel surprisingly far even if you don’t live right in the thick of the blaze. If you can’t leave the area, air purifiers and masks like N95s are a great idea to help reduce your exposure. Your local air control board will likely have information on hand to help you protect your lungs. Fitzgerald-McGowan suggests Smoke Ready CA, saying even though “it’s a California website, many of their resources are applicable to other [states].”

How Can You Prepare for Fire Season

There’s a lot of good advice out there to help you prepare for fire season. Fitzgerald-McGowan recommends following the NFPA guide so you can “be a part of the wildfire solution by taking steps to reduce the chance of your home igniting from embers or surface fire.”

The most important thing you can do is be proactive in your protection. “Fire whirls and fire tornadoes are real,” Masi cautions. Fires can be unpredictable, so the best thing you can do is make your house an “easy save.” An “easy save” is a home that does not have many fire hazards near it and can be quickly doused by the firefighters. The more “easy saves” there are in a neighborhood, the better the outcome overall.

To make your home an “easy save,” Masi suggests you:

• Create a defensible space around your home. This means, to the best of your ability, a 100-ft barrier in front of your house devoid of flammable stuff. So, clean your gutters, trim overhanging branches, keep your wood pile away from your home, and especially within 30 feet of your home, keep the hazards to zero.
• Reduce the hazardous fuel around your home, even beyond the barrier. Look around and see where you’re storing flammable materials and ensure you’re keeping up with yard work.
• Take some time to do home hardening. This will vary depending on your available resources, but do the best you can to opt for building and renovating with fire-resistant materials. For example, Masi recently swapped out her wooden decks for Trex, which is much more fire-resistant.
• Keep the weather in mind. Under no circumstances should you use power equipment during heatwave or wind. The likelihood of creating sparks that can catch is far too high.

About the Experts

• Megan Fitzgerald-McGowan is a wildfire program specialist at the National Fire Protection Association.
• Amy Masi is the Acting Public Affairs Officer and Partnership Coordinator for Kern River Ranger District as well as a Public Affairs Officer for the U.S. Forest Service.

The post A Guide to Fire Season: Everything to Know appeared first on Family Handyman.

This proactive measure not only protects residents and visitors, but also helps maintain the home’s overall safety.

How to Add Grit to Paint

Before winter hits, apply a coat of paint and traction grit on slippery wood steps. Sand and aluminum oxide grit are cheap, but both require constant stirring, and they show up as dark specks as soon as the paint starts to wear.

Instead, try polymeric plastic grit (such as Seal-Krete Clear Grip), which is available online and at home centers. Polymeric grit stays suspended in the paint as you apply it, and because its clear plastic, it wont show up as dark specks as the paint wears. The steps for application are simple:

• Apply a fresh coat of paint to the steps.
• Immediately sprinkle a generous coating of rubber grit to the surface.
• Allow it to dry.
• Then, add a second coat of paint to seal the grit.

If you want grit thats easier on bare feet, add rubber grit (such as Soft Sand Traction Grit) to the paint. Use the same broadcast method described above to apply it.

The post Make Wood Steps Safer With This Simple Hack appeared first on Family Handyman.

Luckily, my work was diligent about personal fall arrest systems (PFAS), aka safety harnesses. You should be, too, especially if you’re working on your roof. Falls from roofs affect thousands of home DIYers every year, leading to injury, hospitalization and even death. To get up to speed on properly using a PFAS, we talked to Mike Larsen, owner of Larsen Roofing in Grand Blanc, Michigan.

“You should always use some kind of PFAS if you’re working from any elevated space,” Larsen says. “Whether you’re working on a roof or trimming trees, there is always a risk of falling.” Below, Larsen explains what PFAS are and how to use them safely.

What Is a Roof Safety Harness?

“It is a way to prevent you from falling from a roof when you’re making repairs or installing a new roof,” Larsen says. “We typically call it a PFAS, and there are 3 major pieces or components.” All are critical to the PFAS working as intended.

• Anchor point: The anchor catches you if you fall. It must be attached to a structural member of your roof, not the shingles or sheathing.
• Harness:This is what you wear on your body. It’s made from nylon, polyester or even Kevlar, like a bullet-proof vest. “If you’ve ever seen Mission: Impossible, it looks like the suit Tom Cruise is wearing when he’s suspended above the security floor,” Larsen says. Straps go around your shoulders, chest and between your legs. It’s very important to get the right size and wear it snugly so your weight is supported and you can’t slip out.
• Connector:This is the locking snap hook and lanyard that connects the D-ring on the harness to the anchor point. “The connector usually has a shock absorber and a decelerator, which helps to minimize the force if someone were to fall,” Larsen says.

What Is a Slide Guard?

“A slide guard is a temporary structure you secure to a roof to stop tools and potentially, workers from sliding off a low-slope roof,” Larsen says. “You can attach them to the edge of the roof and also at different places along the slope, so as you work up, you don’t have materials sliding all the way to the edge.”

Slide guards are typically 2×6 or 2×8 dimensional lumber, attached to your home’s rafters with brackets. Larsen says it’s important to use the right fasteners and make sure you’re hitting a rafter or truss: “The nails or screws need to be secured to something more solid than just the shingles or sheathing.”

Slide guards are not a replacement for PFAS. “I never use the slide guards alone because accidents can happen,” Larsen says. “One mistake I have seen happen is forgetting to secure the wood to the brackets. This actually caused a guy to slide right through it, and luckily, he wasn’t hurt because another worker was able to grab his arm.”

When Is a Safety Harness Required?

Larsen says the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) requires PFAS for falls over four feet. Of course, you’re at home, not at work, but it’s still important to use fall protection anytime you’re climbing on your roof. If you want to invest in PFAS for roof or tree work at home, Larsen says to look for one certified by OSHA or the American National Standards Institute (ANSI), and inspect the equipment regularly.

“One other thing to do is know your work environment,” Larsen says. “If you’re working on a roof with a steep pitch or abnormal elevation, you may need a different PFAS than if you’re working on a flat roof on a strip mall or a standard residential roof.”

Setting up a Roof PFAS System

Before getting started, Larsen recommends you “make sure you have everything you’re going to need to attach your anchor, so you don’t have to keep climbing up and down.” That includes the anchor, lanyard, fasteners, a ladder with a ladder stabilizer, a pry bar and other hand tools, as well as sturdy, non-slip shoes. If you’re putting in a slide guard, do that first from your ladder. Wear a tool belt, or use a bucket and rope system, so you’re not carrying tools and materials up the ladder with your hands.

Anchors can be purchased at home improvement stores or online. Make sure they’re certified and from a reputable company. “You need to figure out the proper place to anchor the PFAS first,” Larsen says. This will typically be on the roof’s ridge line, and you will likely need to loosen and remove some ridge shingles. Read the instructions carefully before beginning so you know what to expect.

Secure the ladder and climb up. Since you’re not secured by the PFAS yet, this is dicey work, so be very aware of your hands, feet, tools and surroundings. “Don’t move too suddenly once you’re up on the roof, and then attach the anchor securely,” Larsen says. Attach the lanyard to the anchor. Carefully climb down and get yourself situated in the harness. Alternatively, put the harness on before you attach the anchor.

Verify that all connections are secure, and that you’ve followed all safety instructions with your PFAS. This is your life and health at stake, so check every component and connection point. “Always check it before you start your roofing work,” Larsen says.

FAQ

Should DIYers attempt work that requires a safety harness?

It depends. “Any slope over a 4:12 is too steep for non-professionals to work on,” says Larsen. Even a 4:12 can be dangerous, Larsen says, and notes that the “vast majority of folks don’t have the proper safety equipment to manage a roofing job.” He recommends calling a pro for all roofing work, but especially for steep slopes.

About the Expert

Mike Larsen is the owner ofLarsen Roofing, which has been serving Genesee and Lapeer Counties in Michigan for over 20 years. Larsen got his start in roofing as a laborer, roofing homes on Chicago’s south side, and his roofing expertise is routinely featured in national publications.

The post How to Properly Use a Roof Safety Harness appeared first on Family Handyman.

Today we’re optimistic that we’re okay because we tend to keep our windows open and the house circulates fresh air well, though only time will tell. Radon’s health dangers come from its cumulative effect over years. We’ve since installed a radon mitigation system and now encourage others to actively monitor their homes as well.

Monitoring and testing for radon should be an ongoing part of your home health safety routine, even if you’ve tested negative in the past. Here’s why, plus how to test for radon and what to do if you find it.

What Is Radon?

Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas that you can’t see, smell or taste. It’s also a known carcinogen.

Where Does Radon Come From?

Radon comes from the ground. Rocks, soil and water contain small amounts of uranium. Those break down over time through a process called radioactive decay, forming radon gas. Radioactive particles in radon gas can seep into our homes directly through concrete pores and, more significantly, through gaps and cracks in walls and floors. In rare instances, it can also be infused in water, and thus enter buildings through showers and faucets.

What Are the Risks of Radon?

Long-term exposure to high concentrations of radon is the leading cause of lung cancer among non-smokers, killing an estimated 21,000 people a year, according to the EPA. If you smoke, radon exposure “greatly enhances the risk of lung cancer,” according to the American Lung Association. But the risks are cumulative, which means living with it for a short amount of time until the problem is fixed probably won’t negatively impact your health.

Where Is Radon Found?

Radon is found all over the country, with an estimated one in 15 homes having elevated levels. “Even though it is naturally occurring, the radon gas concentration inside is often much higher than outdoors,” says Jrgen Solstad, director of consumer products at Airthings. “Radon can build up in the air in any home or building whether it has a basement, is sealed or drafty, is new or old.”

Radon Levels, Explained

The amount of radon in the air is measured in picocuries per liter (pCi/L). International standards dictate:

• Minimal levels (up to 1.3 pCi/L) are considered safe, but should still be monitored.
• Low levels (1.3 to 2.6 pCi/L) are classified as acceptable. “While immediate intervention is not imperative, homeowners can experiment with ventilation and sealing foundation cracks as a preventive measure,” says Solstad.
• Moderately high levels (2.7 to 4 pCi/L) warrant enhanced ventilation and monitoring. “If no improvement is observed after three months, consult a professional radon mitigator,” says Solstad.
• High-risk levels (above 4 pCi/L) for more than one month require prompt, professional mitigation.

What Are the EPA’s Action Levels for Radon?

4 pCi/L. “But a radon level below 4 pCi/L still poses a health risk,” says Nancy Bredhoff, President of Radon Testing Corporation of America. “You should consider fixing when the radon level is between 2 and 4 pCi/L.”

How To Test for Radon

There are three common methods for radon testing your air:

• Short-term test kits, which you leave out for two to 90 days, then send to a lab.
• Long-term test kits, which measure year-round average levels.
• Digital monitors can provide both sets of figures in real time and don’t require lab analysis.

If you go the test kit route, you can DIY it or hire a certified radon professional. If you DIY it, conduct the test in the lowest livable area of your house that is regularly used eight to 10 hours per week.

How To Get Rid of Radon

For lower levels of radon, the simplest solution is to increase ventilation and natural air flow by opening doors and windows, and sealing cracks in the foundation or basement floor. If that doesn’t work, or isn’t possible due to weather or your home’s layout, then you’ll need more formal mitigation.

“The most common system is a vent pipe and fan, where the radon from beneath the house is vented to the outside,” says Bredhoff. In some cases these are DIY-able, but pros can alleviate safety concerns like preventing combustion appliance backdrafting. The National Radon Safety Board offers this resource for finding a radon professional in your area, or you can contact your state radon program.

How To Make Your House Safe from Radon

Because radon levels fluctuate, ongoing monitoring with a digital detector can help you determine if and when you have a radon problem. Also, keep your home well-ventilated and seal radon access points. “Sealing large cracks and openings in any home is good for energy consumption and can also help with radon,” says Solstad.

What Are Radon Detectors and How Do They Work?

Radon detectors monitor the amount of radon particles in a room. You can move them from room to room to test multiple areas and see if your radon mitigation solutions are working.

Some digital radon detectors, like the Airthings’ View Plus, can also monitor other potential air quality issues, like CO2, PM2.5, VOCs, temperature, pressure and humidity.

FAQs

What States Have Higher Levels of Radon?

Elevated levels of radon occur in every state, but especially in areas with high levels of uranium in the underlying rock and soil. You can check Airthings’ live radon readings here, but remember that radon levels can vary from neighborhood to neighborhood and even house to house.

What Season Is Radon Highest?

Temperature, pressure, humidity, rain and snow are all seasonal environmental factors that impact the amount of radon emitted from the ground, says Solstad. Therefore, “The months between October and February are considered radon season, when levels are often highest and winter behavior like keeping windows and doors closed also elevates levels.”

What Are Safe Levels of Radon?

“The EPA believes that any radon exposure carries some risk; no level of radon is safe,” says Bredhoff. However, radon levels measured below 1.3 pCi/L are low enough to be considered acceptable and do not require immediate action to be taken.

Is It Okay to Live in a House with Radon?

Yes, it is okay to live in a house with elevated radon for a short amount of time, or as long as levels are below 1.3pCi/L, since radon’s negative health affects accumulate over time. “It is nearly impossible to avoid radon completely, hence many people live in their homes with some exposure to radon, but it is advised to minimize radon exposure as much as possible,” says Solstad.

About The Experts

Nancy Bredhoff is President of Radon Testing Corporation of America, Inc. (RTCA) and volunteers on the board of the National Radon Safety Board (NRSB). She has been involved in the radon industry since 1986.

Jrgen Solstad is director of consumer products for Airthings, where he oversees the product development and deployment of the line of products designed for home use. Airthings has sold more than one million monitors worldwide, which help people monitor radon and other air quality concerns in their homes. The company has received a TIME Best Inventions Award and a CES Innovation Award Honors.

Sources

• American Lung Association radon FAQ
• EPA consumer guide to radon reduction
• National Radon Action Plan

The post How to Test for Radon in Your Home appeared first on Family Handyman.

Exposure to lead paint during renovation and repainting projects carries serious health implications. As a homeowner and landlord in New England, I know firsthand the seriousness of lead paint exposure. I had it removed from several properties to keep my family and tenants safe. Here’s how to identify lead paint.

With the help of two industry experts, Bob Carroll from Indiana University and Shayne Pancione from Pancione Painting Plus, we’ll learn when lead paint was banned, the threat it poses, and what to do if you discover it in your home.

About the Experts

Bill Carroll, Ph.D. is an adjunct professor of chemistry at Indiana University. The former vice president of industry issues for Occidental Chemical Corporation, he’s the principal of Carroll Applied Science in Dallas, Texas.

Shayne Pancione is the owner of Pancione Painting Plus in Easthampton, Massachusetts. A certified lead-safe renovator, he has more than 30 years experience in the painting industry.

When Was Lead Paint Banned?

Benjamin Franklin wrote a letter to a friend in 1786 warning of the dangers of lead, but it would be more than 100 years before the first ban was enacted not in the United States, but in France, in 1909.

In 1951, Baltimore, Maryland became the first U.S. city to ban the use and sale of lead paint. New York City followed suit in 1960. However, it took more than a decade before Congress addressed it with national legislation, passing with the Lead Poisoning Prevention Act in 1971.

A complete ban on all consumer use of lead paint didn’t happen in the U.S. until 1978, when the Consumer Product Safety Commission prohibited its use in all consumer products, including paint, toys and furniture. However, this left millions of houses still coated with the toxic paint.

In 2008, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) issued the Renovation, Repair and Painting (RRP) Rule, mandating any projects that may disturb lead-based paint must be completed by lead-certified contractors, like Pancione.

Does All Paint Made Before 1978 Contain Lead?

No.

Lead paint was valued for its durability and faster dry times, but not all paint made before 1978 contained it.

Paint manufacturers began voluntarily removing lead pigments as early as the 1940s, as its dangers became more apparent. They began using non-lead pigments like zinc oxide instead and manufacturing new water-based, lead-free paints.

Lead also increased paint costs, so some lower priced paints never contained any.

Why Was Lead Paint Banned?

Lead is a naturally occurring element that’s toxic to humans when ingested or inhaled. “It is most dangerous to children because it can impact mental and physical development,” Carroll says. These include developmental delays, lower IQs and hyperactivity. Prolonged lead exposure can pose health threats to adults as well.

Despite the known dangers, it wasn’t until extensive research and public advocacy efforts in the 1960s and ’70s finally led to the total ban on lead paint. Research determined even low levels of lead exposure could lead to significant and irreversible health issues in children.

How Do You Know if You Have Lead Paint in Your House?

If your home was built before 1978, there’s a chance it contains lead paint, and the likelihood increases with the age of the house.

To know for sure, the home’s painted surfaces need to be tested for lead. You could hire a certified lead inspector or assessor with specialized equipment. You also could send paint chip samples to a laboratory that uses x-ray fluorescence. “This technique identifies specific chemical elements,” Carroll says.

If you’d prefer to test for lead yourself, get a home test kit sold at most home centers and hardware stores. “These tests are affordable and easy to use,” Pancione says. Test kits include a swab that changes color when it comes in contact with lead.

What Should You Do if You Have Lead Paint in Your House?

If you discover lead paint in your house, take these steps to mitigate the risk of exposure.

• Leave it alone: Do not disturb lead paint by scraping or sanding it. If it isn’t deteriorating, chipping or peeling, it’s best to leave it alone until you determine a plan to address it.
• Consider a professional risk assessment: A certified risk assessment determines the existence and extent of lead paint hazards in and around your home, and provides recommended actions to reduce exposure. This can include containment (encapsulate) or abatement (removal).
• Encapsulate: A specially formulated paint, encapsulate can seal lead paint in certain circumstances. It can’t be used on lead paint that’s chipping or peeling, or on movable surfaces like doors and windows.
• Hire an abatement company: If you decide complete lead paint abatement is best for your family, or a local agency suggests it, the EPA recommends hiring a professional abatement company. “The best and surest way to reduce the risk is to have it removed,” Carroll says.
• Take precautions with remodeling, repairing or painting projects: If you plan to do any projects that will disturb lead paint, hire a lead-safe certified home contractor to complete the work. “Certified renovators go through rigorous training to become certified and will take all necessary precautions,” Pancione says. The EPA also provides recommendations for DIYers to follow when completing home projects that mitigate lead paint exposure risk.

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But what do these higher OSHA fines mean, and how much are they? Here’s a quick breakdown on these job site changes.

Why Is OSHA Increasing Fines?

As the cost of living has increased, businesses have increased their rates and prices to keep up. The result: A gap between what the businesses are now making, and what OSHA can collect in fines. At the same time, the government’s operation costs are increasing, so it must raise fees and penalties to make up the difference.

The fine increases should improve safety for workers. While companies should focus on the safety in any conditions, the smaller the fine, the less incentive there is for them to keep their workers safe. While the amount is truly marginal compared to the value of life, the increases should discourage corner-cutting on safe work environments.

But it’s important to remember these increases are the result of occupational safety and health laws violations. Companies with a keen eye for safety should be largely unaffected by the policy, though accidents do happen. And these are fines for violations, not accidents, which means they’re primarily a pre-emptive measure to keep workers safe.

How Much Are OSHA Fines Increasing?

On the whole, OSHA fines are increasing 3.2% from 2023 to 2024. This rate hardly keeps up with inflation and the cost of living. But it may prevent companies from losing their focus on safety while helping the government cope with increasing operational costs.

Also, the 3.2% bump is much smaller than the 7.7% increase OSHA imposed from 2022 to 2023.

The fee increases depending on the type of occurrence:

• The maximum amount for a violation will increase from $15,625 to $16,131 per occurrence.

• The maximum amount for a willful or repeated violation will increase from $156,259 to $161,323 per violation.

When Will the New Fees Go Into Effect?

They already have.

Under the Federal Civil Penalties Inflation Adjustment Act (FCPIAA), any agency increasing fees is required to publish rules and make annual adjustments for inflation no later than January 15 each year.

This year, because January 15 was a federal holiday (Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Day) and government offices were closed, the new penalties went into effect the next day.

The Top 10 OSHA Violations for 2023

OSHA keeps track of all cited violations each year. In the fiscal year ending September 30, 2023, the following violation types were most common:

1. Fall protection violations general requirements: 7,271;

2. Hazard communication violations: 3,213;

3. Ladder violations: 2,978;

4. Scaffolding violations: 2,859;

5. Powered industrial truck violations: 2,561;

6. Lockout/tagout violations: 2,554;

7. Respiratory protection violations: 2,481;

8. Fall protection violations training requirement: 2,112;

9. Personal protective and lifesaving equipment violations eye and face protection: 2,074;

10. Machine guarding violations: 1,644.

What Can Companies Do?

Companies should continue to make workplace safety a top priority for their employees. Violations and citations are overwhelmingly avoidable with the right training, equipment and safety personnel.

The post Why Higher OSHA Fines Are Coming In 2024 appeared first on Family Handyman.

Aspergillus

Considered a common indoor mold, aspergillus includes hundreds of species. In a bathroom, it may grow near water leaks or on shower walls.

It’s black and gray, or white and yellow. It can grow in large patches with a short, fuzzy surface texture.

Those with mold allergies or asthma conditions are most at risk. According to Carver, this mold can “cause a severe asthmatic reaction in people with asthma who are sensitive to this mold type.”

An especially dangerous strain sometimes found in the bathroom is aspergillus niger. If someone immunocompromised breathes it in, it can begin to grow in the lung tissue and cause aspergillosis, a potentially serious respiratory disease.

Dogs can also have allergic reactions or can develop aspergillosis, with potentially grave results.

The post 9 Bathroom Mold Types To Be Aware Of appeared first on Family Handyman.

The most notable improvements include better detection of smoldering and burning polyurethane foam (found in mattresses and upholstered furniture) and reducing false alarms from cooking.

“Ultimately, the goal is to prevent people from taking the batteries out of their alarms or removing them as a result of nuisance alarms caused by cooking,” says Susan McKelvey, communications manager for the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA).

“Doing that presents a serious risk, as smoke alarms play a critical role in home fire safety, reducing the risk of dying in a home fire by more than half.”

About the Experts

Susan McKelvey is communications manager for the National Fire Protection Association, where she spent the last decade managing national public fire safety awareness campaigns and serving as the organization’s on-the-record spokesperson.

Ashley Gocken is a First Alert fire safety expert with Resideo Technologies. She spreads awareness about the best home fire and carbon monoxide safety practices.

What Are the New Smoke Alarm Manufacturing Standards?

The new standards named the UL 217 8th Edition of the Standard for Smoke Alarms and the UL 268 7th edition of the Standard for Smoke Detectors include more than 250 technical changes to the codes. Most keep pace with advancing technologies, allowing detectors to respond better to changing fire conditions in modern homes.

The most significant new standards include:

Nuisance cooking alarm detection

The new devices use more advanced sensors, or multi-sensors and algorithms, to better distinguish between cooking smoke and an actual fire. To do this, they analyze smoke for differences in particle size and gas concentration.

While it probably won’t eliminate cooking alarms entirely, the UL believes it should greatly reduce them.

Smoldering and burning polyurethane detection

While new alarms are less sensitive to cooking smoke, they are more sensitive to other dangers, especially smoldering and fast-moving polyurethane fires. This is especially important because fire dynamics in homes have changed over the last few decades.

“Modern homes tend to be built and furnished with lighter, synthetic materials that burn hotter and faster,” says Ashley Gocken, a First Alert fire safety expert with Resideo Technologies. “Plus [they] feature layouts with higher ceilings and open floor plans, that may result in less time for a safe evacuation if a fire breaks out.”

That means when today’s homes catch fire, our escape times have been reduced on average from 17 minutes to just three or four minutes. That’s another reason smoke alarms are so vital, says McKelvey. “The majority of U.S. home fire deaths occur in homes with no smoke alarms or smoke alarms that aren’t working,” she says.

Should Homeowners Immediately Upgrade to the New Alarms?

No.

“There is no need for consumers to replace their smoke alarms immediately,” says McKelvey. “They can keep using their existing smoke alarms and replace them when they are 10 years old, which is the lifespan of a smoke alarm, or when they hear the end-of-life signal from their alarm.”

However, if you often get false “nuisance” alarms when you cook, you might want to replace your detectors earlier. This will keep you safer if you tend to disable your alarms and forget to re-connect them.

How Do I Know if an Alarm Meets the 2024 Standards?

Some detectors on retail shelves are already complying. The packaging should make it clear if they are since manufacturers are generally excited about touting the new benefits. Also, look for the phrase “UL 217 8th Edition.”

FAQs

What’s the difference between a smoke alarm and a smoke detector?

Technically, a smoke detector senses smoke and sends a signal to a central alarm system, whereas a smoke alarm includes a built-in audible and/or visible alarm. However, both terms are often used interchangeably when referring to the devices installed in our homes.

What’s the difference between an ionization and photoelectric smoke detector?

Photoelectric smoke alarms are more sensitive to smoke from smoldering fires, while ionization alarms are more prone to detect fast, flaming fires.

How often do smoke detectors need to be replaced?

According to the NFPA, every 10 years based on the manufacturing date, or every seven years for combo smoke/carbon monoxide (CO) alarms.

NFPA says smoke alarms should be tested monthly and batteries should be replaced when they begin to chirp, signaling that they’re running low. If you’re annoyed by low-battery warning chirps, consider a 10-year sealed battery smoke alarm like this one from First Alert. But still test it periodically.

Where should smoke detectors be placed?

NFPA recommends installing smoke alarms high on walls and ceilings on every level of your home, including in each bedroom, the main corridors and the basement. “To put this into perspective, a two-story, three-bedroom house needs a minimum of five smoke alarms,” says Gocken.

How many smoke detectors can you have on one circuit?

Twelve, plus six additional devices like CO alarms, heat alarms and strobes, as dictated by the NFPA.

Do smoke detectors have to be hard wired?

Yes. Hard-wired smoke detectors are required in all newly constructed and renovated homes. Devices are also required to be UL-listed and interconnected with a battery backup.

Which type of smoke detector is best?

It depends on your situation, but generally a dual-sensor ionization-photoelectric alarm that complies with the new 2024 standards. A standalone or combined carbon monoxide sensor is also a good idea.

For extra security, First Alert and other companies also offer alarms with voice alerts to tell you the location and type of danger, so you can better plan your escape. Whatever you buy, make sure the device is recognized by a third-party tester like UL and Intertek.

The post What To Know About the New Smoke Alarm Standards appeared first on Family Handyman.

Although I don’t know for sure, it was probably abundant in the walls and ceilings of my childhood home. A gray coating wrapped around our old oil furnace and its ductwork matched the classic description of asbestos insulation. That house was demolished in 1967 to make way for expansion of the local university.

Several homes of the same vintage in that neighborhood are still standing, however, and it’s a good bet there’s asbestos in many of them. The problem extended far from my Midwestern neighborhood; in 1995, my partner and I cleared asbestos insulation from the attic of a house we renovated in Colorado.

Insulation is one of the more dangerous asbestos products, and it isn’t easy to identify. Asbestos expert Michelle Whitmer cautions owners of older homes should hire professionals to test suspicious materials instead of relying on DIY testing kits. Lots of other 20th Century products may contain asbestos, including wallboard, joint compound, paint, floor and ceiling tiles.

When Was Asbestos Used in Homes?

Asbestos is a naturally occurring mineral, so it’s no surprise that people have known about it and used it for thousands of years.

Asbestos fibers reinforce other materials, like clay. Because they don’t burn, people wove them into fire-protective clothing and cooking gear. Asbestos use exploded in the 1800s when large deposits were found worldwide, including the United States and Canada. Mechanized mining techniques developed around that time made extracting asbestos easier.

The Johns Company, which merged with the Manville Covering Company in 1901 to become Johns-Manville, began making asbestos roofing material in 1858. United States Gypsum started incorporating asbestos into drywall and drywall joint compound in the 1920s.

These and other products found their way into homes built at the time. After World War II, the production of asbestos-containing building materials became widespread.

Efforts to curtail asbestos use began in the mid-1970s and continued into the 1980s, putting the period of peak usage between 1940 and 1980. Some common products from that period containing asbestos, according to Whitmer, include:

• Cement board;
• Roofing felt;
• Insulation;
• Vinyl floor tiles;
• Textured paint.

Insulation is probably the most problematic.

“The types of insulation in homes most likely to contain asbestos include loose-fill vermiculite insulation and wrap insulation commonly found around pipes and A/C units,” Whitmer says. “Some homes may have spray-on or block insulation containing asbestos, but these materials were most common in commercial buildings.”

Why Was Asbestos Used in Homes?

Manufacturers used asbestos for several reasons:

• It’s cheap;
• It reinforces materials to make them stronger;
• It resists moisture, chemicals, fire and electricity;
• It insulates against heat and sound.

In most applications, asbestos was embedded in another material, like cement, vinyl or gypsum. As long as it stays embedded, the U.S. Consumer Product and Safety Commission says it’s not necessarily a problem. It only becomes hazardous when the fibers become airborne. This can happen when materials crumble and deteriorate, or they’re disturbed during renovation.

Whitmer says homeowners should avoid disturbing materials that may contain asbestos. “If the material is crumbling, wetting it will limit dust until professionals can inspect it,” she says. Drilling into drywall, removing popcorn ceiling texture, cutting through pipe insulation, renovating an attic or removing vinyl floor tiles can be hazardous if asbestos is present.

When Did the Dangers of Asbestos Come To Light?

As early as 1897, an Austrian doctor linked a patient’s pulmonary problems to asbestos inhalation. In 1906, the first death, of a factory worker, was attributed to asbestos inhalation.

By 1908, people realized asbestos workers were dying young, and insurance companies began to reduce benefits and increase premiums for them. These revelations had little effect on the industry, which tripled production from 1900 to 1910.

In the 1930s, medical evidence existed that linked asbestos inhalation to lung disease. At that time, production had fallen off due to the Great Depression.

When production resumed in the 1940s, manufacturers still had enough confidence in asbestos to include it in cigarette filters. But evidence of its hazards continued to build through the 1960s, finally leading to action by the U.S. Congress in the 1970s.

When Was Asbestos Banned From Use in Homes?

Asbestos has never been completely banned in the United States, but there have been several efforts to do so. The first was the Clean Air Act of 1970, which established the National Emission Standards for Hazardous Air Pollutants (NESHAP). Asbestos spray materials and pipe insulation were banned in the 1970s.

The Consumer Product Safety Act of 1972 established the Consumer Product Safety Commission, which banned asbestos fireplace embers and wall patching compounds.

Subsequent legislation gradually increased the scope of asbestos prohibitions. The EPA, empowered by the Toxic Substances Control Act of 1976, attempted a blanket ban of asbestos products in 1989. A court overturned the ban in 1991, and several uses were still allowed, mostly in the automobile industry.

Other efforts to curtail asbestos use died in Congress. In 2019, the EPA issued a final rule discontinuing the sale and use of new building materials containing asbestos.

About the Expert

• Michelle Whitmer is an asbestos expert who writes for the Mesothelioma Center at Asbestos.com. She has more than 14 years of experience covering medical and environmental issues.

The post When and Why Was Asbestos Actually Used in Homes? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Mice are one of the most dangerous houseguests. They can carry numerous diseases and can cause property damage as they burrow through your home. In order to keep them away from you, your loved ones and your house, it’s critical to understand what draws them in. Here are six common things that attract mice, as well as tips on how to prevent mouse infestations.

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However, many homeowners still wonder if they need to spray for bugs during wintertime. If you’re not sure how to keep bugs out of your home this winter, consider this your introductory guide. We’ll cover when, where and how to spray for bugs, as well as other ways to deter hibernating pests.

Should I Spray for Bugs in Winter?

Absolutely. According to Apple Pest Control, winter is the best time to spray for bugs.

“[T]he spray that pest control companies use can be broken down by high temperatures, rain and sunlight,” the company says on its website. Those things are, of course, less of a factor during the winter.

What Bugs Should I Spray for in Winter?

Many bugs that come inside during winter are arthropods like cockroaches, spiders and ants, perBug Blasters Pest Control.

“These types of bugs are exothermic meaning they cannot produce their own heat,” the company says on its website. “They are dependent on the temperatures where they live in order to survive. When temperatures … start to dip, these types of bugs begin to scurry indoors, where it is nice and warm, in order to survive.”

When in Winter Should I Spray for Bugs?

A recent report byCBS News.comfound that most pest control companies recommend spraying for bugs every three months. In general, because bugs move indoors when the temperature drops, it’s a good idea to contact a local pest control company during the fall as soon as you notice the weather getting chillier.

Where Should I Spray for Bugs?

“Bugs search for dark and warm places to spend their time during the cold season of the year,” per Apple Pest Control. “These places typically include basements, closets and pantries.” Pantries can be especially appealing to bugs, who smell the food.

To keep bugs out of these areas, pest control companies will target all of the entries into your home doors and windows, plus any cracks or holes in the foundation.

How Should I Spray for Bugs?

Of course, you can always hire a local pest control company. But if you’d prefer to DIY your pest control, follow these tips from BioAdvanced Pest Control:

• Spray your insecticide in a continuous band around your home’s perimeter.
• Spray insecticide with the wind to avoid dousing yourself by accident.
• Spray where different building materials meet, like around window frames.
• Spray anywhere you spot insects, like around the garage or shed.

Finally, be sure to properly seal your stored food and keep your yard and home free of debris and excess trash. All these strategies can keep bug infestations at bay.

The post Do You Still Need to Spray for Bugs in Winter? appeared first on Family Handyman.

There are many ways to ensure bed bugs don’t get into your home. First and foremost, travelers should always check their hotel rooms for these pests. These six steps will show you how to properly inspect your space, preventing unwanted bites now and potential infestations in the future.

Tips for Checking for Bed Bugs in a Hotel

Place Your Luggage Out of Reach

Robert Puckett, Ph.D., an associate professor and extension entomologist at Texas A&M, told Forbesbed bugs struggle to climb smooth surfaces. So place your suitcase on the luggage stand or in the bathtub as soon as you enter your room. Keep it there while you perform a full inspection.

Check the Bed

Bed bugs, unsurprisingly, love beds. Consumer Reports recommends pulling back all the sheets and blankets to check for bed bugs. Then look at the headboard, mattress, boxspring and pillows.

Scan for adult bugs, as well as eggs, nymphs, exoskeletons and any “dark, rust-colored spots” of fecal matter. Don’t forget to use a flashlight to check under the mattress and box spring too!

Inspect All Soft Surfaces

Bed bugs love to burrow, so check all the crevices of soft surfaces. In speaking with Consumer Reports,Michael Potter, Ph.D., a professor of entomology at the University of Kentucky, suggests inspecting any upholstered furniture.

“If I’m traveling, I’ll take a quick look at the couch or recliner, if there is one at the seams and the head and neck area,” he says.

Report Infestations Immediately

If you do find any bed bugs in your room, alert hotel management immediately. If you choose to remain at that hotel, Puckett says, be sure to get a room that doesn’t share a wall, floor or ceiling with the infested one.

Bag Your Belongings

Regardless of whether you find evidence of bed bugs, Potter says it’s always wise to place your belongings in plastic bags. And keep your items close together instead of spread out across the room.

“If there happen to be bugs, they sometimes will get into things,” he told Consumer Reports. “The more stuff you have around, the higher probability of that.”

Do Your Laundry ASAP

As soon as you return home from your trip, do your laundry.

In an interview with Forbes, Garrett Thrasher, vice president of Thrasher Termite & Pest Control in Southern California, suggests leaving your luggage outside and putting clothes directly into the wash.

And throw everything in the dryer, as opposed to air-drying them. Thrasher says water doesn’t kill bed bugs, but 30 minutes of high heat in the dryer will.

The post How to Check for Bed Bugs in a Hotel appeared first on Family Handyman.

To be clear, malicious use of AirTags is rare. But it’s worth knowing about potential risks. We asked a pair of IT security experts to explain how AirTags work, how to know if you’re being tracked, and what to do if you find a suspicious AirTag.

What Is an Apple AirTag?

It’s a device intended to help consumers keep track of their easily-lost items.

About the size of a watch face, it can be attached to small items like a key fob, earbud charger or tablet, or simply slipped into a bag or item of clothing. If that item goes missing, the AirTag will inform you of its location.

Because Airtages use Apple’s Find My network, items can be tracked anywhere as long as they’re near an , iPad, or similar Apple device.

Priced around $25 to $30, AirTags are an affordable way to track your equipment without a GPS or satellite connection. But if slipped into a purse, dropped in a coat pocket or attached to the underside of a car, this same technology can allow anyone to track your movements.

How To Know if Someone Is Tracking You With an AirTag?

AirTags are small and easily concealed. Without a physical search or a tracking detector app, it’s hard to find them.

Luckily, Apple responded to the abuse of this technology by stepping up notifications and making it easier to be aware of AirTags near you. There’s an easy solution for those with iPhones or other Apple devices.

If you’re using at least an iPhone 11 and running iOS 14.5 or higher, you will automatically receive a notification if it detects someone else’s AirTag near you, but only if that AirTag has been separated from its owner. This way, you won’t be inundated with notifications if the person next to you at a party has an AirTag.

Charles Chow of Lumen Technologies Asia Pacific has more than 25 years of experience in cybersecurity. He suggests checking your iPhone to be sure you’ve enabled AirTag alerts. To do so, go to the Find My app and click Customize Tracking Notifications and Allow Notifications.

For Android owners, Apple provided a free tracker app, Track Detect, available on the Google Play store. The one downside to Track Detect is that you need to actively scan it won’t deliver passive alerts. Check the Play Store for third-party tracking apps that may be a better fit.

What To Do if You Find an Unknown Apple Air Tag

If you receive an alert about an unknown AirTag in your vicinity, don’t panic. Take these steps to assess the situation, and take preventative measures as needed.

Locate the AirTag

Finding the AirTag will usually make it clear how much threat it poses. You may have borrowed your friend’s car, and the alert is for the AirTag on their key fob. If the AirTag has been glued to the inside of your wheel well, that’s a different scenario.

Isla Sibanda, a cybersecurity specialist with a background in ethical hacking at PrivacyAustralia, suggests searching yourself and your belongings thoroughly if you receive an AirTag notification, or if something makes you suspicious.

“Pockets, handbags and your car are the most common places where the tracking device may be hiding,” she says.

If you receive a notification from your iPhone, the AirTag will play a sound to let you know it’s there. According to Apple, iPhone users can use Precision Finding to see the distance and direction to an unknown AirTag. The phone will help you hone in on the AirTag through a combination of sound, haptics and visual indicators.

Scan the serial number

Once you’ve found the AirTag, Sibanda recommends identifying its serial number. To do this, use the Find My app or simply hold the white side of the AirTag next to your smartphone.

“Just tap on the notification that comes up,” says Sibanda, “and this will guide you to the web page with the device’s serial number.”

Sibanda also emphasizes the importance of this step to get to the bottom of the mystery. “This is hardcore crucial evidence for discovering and proving who was tracking you,” she says. Because paired AirTags are associated with an Apple ID, it can be used to learn who owns an unknown AirTag.

Remove the AirTag battery

Once you’ve captured the serial number, disable the AirTag by removing the battery.Here’s how:

• Press down on the AirTag’s polished stainless steel battery cover and rotate counterclockwise until the cover stops rotating.
• Remove the cover and battery.

Report the incident

After removing the battery, get to a safe place and contact the police. Reporting the incident is the first step to building a paper trail for action, like a restraining order or arrest.

If you recover the AirTag serial number, Apple will be able to identify the paired account holder. However, they will only do so in response to a subpoena or valid request from law enforcement.

Future Developments

Apple and Google are working to provide easier ways to detect and circumvent location-tracking devices.

Incorporating input from groups like National Network to End Domestic Violence and the Center for Democracy & Technology, the tech giants’ joint press release promises a specification that will require location-tracking devices to be compatible with tracking detection and alerts across iOS and Android platforms.

We hope these advances result in safer location tracking for everyone. Until then, continue to be vigilant and stay aware of unexpected AirTag alerts.

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