What Is a Space Heater?

A space heater is a portable heating device commonly used to warm smaller, otherwise unheated spaces in a home. Most are electric, but fuel-burning models that use kerosene, propane or natural gas are also available. Space heaters can also serve as supplementary heat sources to warm a specific room without raising the entire home’s temperature.

Are Space Heaters Safe?

Space heaters are a great option for that stubborn corner of your home that just won’t get warm, and “as long as they’re properly used, shouldn’t pose a safety issue,” Moore says. However, space heater safety is a serious business, and if not used correctly, space heaters can be very dangerous.

Dangers Associated With Space Heaters

• Fire hazard: Space heaters placed near flammable materials like curtains or bedding can easily ignite and cause a fire. If a space heater is unattended and tips over, it can also quickly lead to a fire.
• Electric shock risk: Damaged or exposed wires can cause electric shock.
• Carbon monoxide poisoning: Fuel-burning heaters release carbon monoxide, an odorless, poisonous gas and must be used in well-ventilated spaces.
• Burn risk: Space heater surfaces can become extremely hot and cause serious burns if not handled properly.

Tips for Using Space Heaters Safely

Always practice these tips for optimum space heater safety.

Follow the instructions

Your space heater should have a label that shows it was tested in a recognized laboratory. Before using the heater, read and understand the manufacturer’s instructions and warning labels.

Use for supplemental heat only

A space heater is meant to provide supplemental heat only. They should never be used to warm linens, cook food or dry clothing. While they may work to warm up smaller rooms in your home, they are not very energy-efficient appliances.

Make sure your smoke alarms work

“Always check that your smoke and carbon monoxide detectors are operating,” Moore says. This is essential whether you’re using a space heater or not, but given the risk of fire associated with portable, plug-in heaters, it’s an especially critical task.

Check the cord

Check the space heater’s cord for cracks and make sure the plug isn’t broken. When plugging in, make sure the connection is secure. Loose connections are inherently dangerous and can be a fire hazard.

Don’t leave a space heater unattended

When leaving a room, turn the space heater off. Also, turn the heater off when sleeping. “Running a space heater while you’re asleep is the same as leaving it unattended,” Moore says, “I don’t recommend it.” Never let pets or children play too close to the heater to avoid burns and prevent them from accidentally tipping it over.

Keep it out of the way

Keep your space heater in a corner or an area of the room where people aren’t walking so that nobody trips on it. Not only is it dangerous for the person walking, it could result in the heater getting too close to flammable materials.

Plug directly into an outlet

Space heaters draw considerable electric current, which can shock you and overheat extension cords and power strips. “Always plug your space heater directly into an outlet, never an extension cord,” Moore says.

Keep space heaters away from flammable material

Space heaters should be kept at least three feet away from anything that can burn, including rugs, clothing, bedding and paper. They’re best used on a flat, uncovered floor without carpeting. Don’t run the cord under a rug, either.

Look for safety features

An easy way to increase space heater safety is to look for a space heater with built-in safety features like a tip-over switch, overheat sensor and touch sensor. These features can help prevent overheating, which can result in a fire.

FAQ

Can you run a space heater all night?

Unless you are awake all night and in the same room as the space heater, you cannot run it all night. “Nothing happens when you’re watching the heater; it’s always when it’s unattended that bad things happen,” Moore says.

How long can you run a space heater?

Moore recommends reading the manufacturer’s instructions for guidance on how long you can run a particular space heater, as each one is different.

What is the safest spot for a space heater?

The safest spot for a space heater is at least three feet away from any flammable materials in any direction, preferably on an uncarpeted floor in the corner of a room.

About the Expert

• Ryan Moore is Fire Chief for the District No. 2 Fire Department in South Hadley, Massachusetts, where he has served for 18 years.

The post A Guide to Space Heater Safety appeared first on Family Handyman.

It appears to be an affordable solution that’s easy to install. One commenter on the post wrote, “This is what they do in Korea. It doesn’t look great (and it’s not fun not having a window to look through), but it definitely keeps some heat in!”

On its face, it seems like a pretty good, frugal solution. But does bubble wrap as insulation actually work? Here’s what we found out.

Bubble Wrap as Insulation Hack

This hack is pretty simple: just cut a piece of bubble wrap to the size of your window and place the bubble side toward the glass. The person in the above post sprayed it with water, which caused it to stick to the window. You could also use tape to hold it there.

The Glass Doctor recommends using bubble wrap with large bubbles and little space between them.

Beyond insulation, the bubble wrap creates a pleasant soft light and obscures the windows for better privacy. On the downside, it makes it so you can’t see clearly from the window.

Will Bubble Wrap Work as Insulation on Windows?

In theory, yes, bubble wrap works as insulation. Adding airspace should help insulate. According to How To Go Solar, using bubble wrap as insulation improves their efficiency by 50% or more on single-glazed windows and up to 20% on double-glazed ones. Build It Solar also had promising results.

But Randy Huckstadt, an HVAC Expert with JustAnswer.com disagrees. “The problem with this whole concept is that it is not an airtight seal. Therefore, any air or any temperature making it through the window makes it right around the bubble wrap,” he says.

Another potential problem he sees with it is that if it’s freezing outside, spraying water on glass comes with the risk of cracking it, especially “because folks are typically doing this because they have poorly rated or single-pane windows,” he says.

However, others say that they have used this trick, and it does help. It’s a common practice in Korea, for example, where it’s called ‘air cap.’ The Institute for Basic Science in Korea states on its website: “If you want to make your home warmer in winter, you can cover panes of glass with bubble wrap [which] can be applied to glass if you first make the glass moist with water. They go on to recommend repurposing bubble wrap from a move, or from delivery packages.

Others in the Reddit post thread supported this method, too. One wrote, “We do this on some of our windows every year. They are single pane. It definitely helps. You can feel the difference one they’re up. If we’re having guests over we could easily take it down for the day.”

Window Insulation Alternatives

Another relatively affordable option as an alternative to bubble wrap is an insulation kit with an R-value rating for windows. These can typically be found at hardware stores and building centers. Here’s how to install them.

First, make sure your weather stripping is in good shape and check the caulk around the exterior and interior your windows for leaks. For a more permanent solution, try interior storm windows, which are more expensive but should last for decades.

Whatever you choose, remember that it will be far more effective if it makes a seal around the window.

About the Expert

• Randy Huckstadt is an HVAC expert with JustAnswer.com and is an authorized mechanic for Haward Service and Warranty Center.

Sources

• The Korean Institute for Basic Science, “Living in Korea.”
• The Glass Doctor, “DIY Project Insulate Your Windows with Bubble Wrap.”
• How to Go Solar, “The Truth about Bubble Wrap Window Insulation,” October 13, 202.
• Build it Solar, blog from Oct. 24, 2005.

The post Does Bubble Wrap Actually Work as Window Insulation? Here’s the Deal appeared first on Family Handyman.

Of course, the electrician in me now understands, and cares, about energy usage and the effects of humidity on building materials. But does that mean I can’t leave a window open in winter on occasion? Can it ever be a good idea? And does the weather play a role? Ahead, I talked to experts in indoor air quality and heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC), as well as a scientist from the National Weather Service, to find out.

Benefits of Leaving a Window Open in the Winter

Let’s start with the pros. If you’re a little claustrophobic like me, you’ll like this section.

According to Allen Rathey, director of the Indoor Health Council, today’s houses are much more airtight due to higher energy efficiency standards than they were in past decades. That means less air exchange between inside and outside, so opening a window in the winter can offer several benefits.

• Improved air quality: Opening a window can reduce stale air, plus indoor air pollutants like carbon dioxide, vapors from cleaning products and cooking fuel byproducts.
• Humidity control: Dry winter air can do a number on your skin and lungs. “Fresh air can help regulate indoor humidity levels, preventing excessive dryness,” says Brad Roberson, president of Aire Serv heating and air conditioning.
• Odor removal: Even with a range hood or exhaust fan, cooking smells permeate every nook and cranny of your home. If you’ve ever lived over a restaurant, you know what I’m talking about.
• Mental well-being: Darkness at 5 p.m. can be a downer, but opening a window may help. “Some people find fresh air invigorating,” Roberson says, “and it can help improve your mood and overall sense of well-being.”

Cons of Leaving a Window Open in the Winter

The biggest con of leaving a window open in the winter is the loss of heat. When you open a window, your HVAC unit eventually kicks on to replace the conditioned air that escapes. That could reduce the energy efficiency of your unit and raise your energy bill, Roberson says, especially if you leave a window open near the thermostat.

Leaving a window open during the winter also wastes energy, even if you’re not so concerned with your utility bills. Unless your home is completely powered by solar and wind, your HVAC is consuming a dwindling supply of fossil fuels.

Should You Leave a Window Open Year-Round?

“Leaving a window open year-round is generally not advisable,” Roberson says. “In the winter, it’s usually more energy-efficient to keep windows closed to conserve heat, while in the summer, you might want to open windows to ventilate your home.”

But, “if you’re trying to improve indoor air quality, control humidity, or simply enjoy the benefits of fresh air, opening a window occasionally may be helpful,” Roberson says. “The key is to strike a balance, ensuring that it doesn’t lead to excessive heat loss or discomfort. Using a window briefly during milder winter days can help achieve the benefits without causing your HVAC system to work excessively hard.”

Should I Leave My Window Open in the Winter?

It’s up to you, though experts generally advise being judicious. “There is no ‘one-size fits all’ when it comes to our indoor spaces,” Rathey says. Roberson adds: “You can leave a window open in the winter, but it’s important to be selective about when and where.”

Here are some situations that might warrant cracking a window:

• In stuffy or humid rooms: It’s best to keep indoor relative humidity between 30% and 50% to keep mold at bay. “An inexpensive temperature and relative humidity meter can help show impacts from a slightly opened window, and flag you to close it when too much damp/cold air enters,” Rathey says.
• When outdoor air quality is good: Air pollution contains harmful volatile organic compounds (VOCs), dilution of which “may reduce impacts to those with chemical sensitivities, unless the outdoor air is more polluted than inside,” Rathey says. Check your local air quality index at AirNow.gov to make sure.
• On sunny and warm(er) days: Give your HVAC a break by taking advantage of good weather and natural heat from the sun. If you’re sensitive to airborne allergens and dust, ventilating may reduce these contaminants, Rathey says.
• If your windows have locks: “An open window can be an entry point for intruders,” Roberson says, “especially when you’re asleep or not at home.” Rathey says putting sash locks on your windows, allowing them to open just a few inches, can mitigate security concerns.

FAQ

Should you leave windows open during extreme weather?

No. It’s a myth that you should open windows during tornadoes, and Kate Abshire with the National Weather Service (NWS) says that wind and hail from thunderstorms can cause glass to shatter, so it’s best to stay away from windows entirely instead of wasting time trying to open them. In rare cases, lightning can enter older homes through cracks around windows.

Can you leave the window open with a dehumidifier?

It’s not a good idea. Dehumidifiers are intended to remove moisture from confined spaces. Bringing in a continuous supply of fresh air from outside, especially if you live in a humid climate, will cause the dehumidifier to constantly run.

How much does it cost to leave a window open?

It depends on your climate, the size of your home, and the type, size and efficiency of your HVAC system. But, the cost can be significant. As a rough example, let’s say you have a 3-ton unit that uses 3,000 watts (3 kilowatts) per hour. Using the October 2024 national average cost for electricity ($0.177 per kilowatt-hour), if your HVAC kicked on just one extra hour a day, your electricity bill would rise approximately $200 per year.

About the Experts

• Kate Abshire is the acting NWS Severe Weather Program Manager in the Severe, Fire, Public, and Winter Weather Services Branch of the National Oceanographic and Atmospheric (NOAA)/National Weather Service.
• Allen Rathey is the director of the Indoor Health Council, a consortium of cleaning professionals and health experts dedicated to healthy indoor spaces. Rathey was previously the president of the Housekeeping Channel, The Healthy House Institute and the Healthy Facilities Institute.
• Brad Roberson is a heating, ventilation and air conditioning expert and the president of Aire Serv, a trusted name in the field of heating and air conditioning installation, maintenance, and repair with more than 200 locations across the United States and Canada.

Sources

• AirNow.gov: “U.S. Air Quality Index”
• Energy.gov: “Estimating Appliance and Home Electronic Energy Use”
• Environmental Protection Agency: “Care for Your Air: A Guide to Indoor Air Quality”
• U.S Bureau of Labor Statistics: “Average Energy Prices for the United States, Regions, Census Divisions, and Selected Metropolitan Areas”

The post Should You Leave a Window Open in the Winter? All the Pros and Cons appeared first on Family Handyman.

We’ve parsed the United States Consumer Product Safety Commission (USCPSC) brief about the recall to bring you the details. We’ve also gathered instructions for what to do if you own one of the affected devices. Read on to learn how to keep yourself and your loved ones safe during the cold months.

Which Space Heaters Are Recalled?

As of Nov. 7, 2024, over 512,000 GoveeLife and Govee smart electric space heaters have been recalled in the United States. An additional 48,000 in Canada are also included. Recalled unit numbers include H7130 (including the H7130101 variation), H7131, H7132, H7133, H7134, and H7135. These heaters are black and white. They vary in height from nine inches to 26 inches, depending on which model you purchased.

According to the USCPSC, retailers selling these heaters include Amazon, Govee and TikTok Shop. They were available from September 2021 through September 2024 and sold for between $30 and $150.

Why Are These Space Heaters Being Recalled?

The impacted devices pose a fire hazard as they have dangerous overheating issues, which can lead to burns and small fires. So far, there are 113 reports of these space heaters overheating, including seven fires and one minor burn. The USCPSC brief expands on this, saying, “Testing determined the smart electric space heaters do not comply with the voluntary industry safety standard, UL 1278, posing an overheating and fire risk from wireless control features.”

What Do I Do if I Own One of These Space Heaters?

If you have one of the space heaters included in the recall, you must contact the manufacturer. If you submit your information correctly, you’ll receive a refund. The USCPSC brief says to “unplug the electric space heater, cut the power cord, and send an image of the destroyed electric space heater, the manufacturers label and SN Code on the bottom or side of the unit to GoveeLife or Govee through the link https://recall.goveelife.com/heater-recall.”

Source

GoveeLife and Govee Smart Electric Space Heaters Recalled Due to Fire and Burn Hazards; Imported by Govee, United States Consumer Product Safety Commission, 2024

The post 500,000 Space Heaters Recalled Over Fire Risk – Is Yours Affected? appeared first on Family Handyman.

As winter approaches, a heating hack is making its way around the internet, promising to increase the temperature in rooms warmed by a radiator. Whether or not it works is another story let’s take a look.

The Tin Foil Radiator Hack

The hack as seen on TikTok, in the Irish Sun and many other places online is straightforward: wrap an old piece of cardboard in tinfoil and place it between your radiator and the wall. The idea is that the tin foil will bounce heat back into the room that otherwise would have escaped out through the poorly insulated wall.

Does the tinfoil radiator hack work?

The science behind the hack is sound, at least in theory. Tin foil is made to reflect heat it doesn’t conduct or absorb heat. By positioning a large sheet of foil directly behind a radiator, you’re certainly going to reflect at least some heat back into the room.

The question is really whether the tin foil will make a noticeable difference in the room’s temperature. That will depend on the room. This tin foil hack might be able to significantly raise the temperature in a small room, but probably wouldn’t make a substantial difference in a larger, more open room.

Is This Tin Foil Radiator Hack Dangerous?

Anytime a DIYer comes across a home hack online especially one that involves a potential fire hazard they should ask one question immediately: is this a safety risk? Placing tin foil and cardboard behind a radiator is not inherently dangerous. After a couple of winters, though, the tin foil will start to oxidize, which could cause trouble.

The post Fact or Fiction: Will Tin Foil Behind the Radiator Warm Up Your Space? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Before heat pumps came on the scene, however, homes tended to have central air conditioners, which are basically heat pumps that can only transfer heat in one direction from inside the house to outside. Many homes still have these units, and since they aren’t in service during the winter, there’s a reasonable question about whether you should cover the compressor in the winter.

We asked HVAC pros from around the country for their opinions, and as you might expect, those in the south were less enthusiastic about covering the compressor in winter than those in the north. Sustainability expert Mike Naughton summed it up like this: “Whether or not you should cover your AC unit depends on your specific climate and property. If you live further up North, where it’s prone to heavier snowfall, it would be a good idea to protect your unit with a covering.”

If you do decide to cover your AC compressor unit in winter, what’s the best way to do it? Our experts weighed in.

What Is an AC Compressor?

An AC compressor is basically an oversized version of the compressor in your refrigerator. It’s a pump that pressurizes a liquid refrigerant inside a condenser coil system. The pressurized refrigerant turns into a gas as it sprays through a valve into a separate set of evaporator coils in the house, which is a process that essentially sucks heat out of the indoor air. The compressor exhausts the heat outdoors as it re-pressurizes the gas to turn it back into a liquid.

The compressor and condenser coils are usually contained in a protective metal housing located somewhere just outside the building. The housing has a network of fins to allow hot air from the compressor to dissipate, and these fins can expose the compressor to snow, moist air and yard debris.

Do You Need to Cover Your AC Compressor?

As Naughton pointed out, whether you need to cover your AC compressor depends on where you live. Glenn Wiseman is a sales rep at an HVAC and Home Services firm in Ottawa, Ontario which is definitely in a northern climate and he said: “If your HVAC unit has an outdoor component, it is best to cover it during snow storms. If any ice or snow builds up on the system, remove it immediately to help restore airflow and prevent rust from forming.”

On the other hand, Aaron Traub, an HVAC pro who services the New Orleans area, said: “You don’t always need to cover your outdoor AC unit during winter. Most modern AC units are built to handle the elements.”

HVAC service pro WG Hickman, who lives in Mississippi, added that “covering the outdoor AC unit can even do more harm than good, as covers prevent proper airflow and trap moisture, leading to rust and mold growth.”

If you do cover your AC unit, the best time to do it is in the fall. However, Mark Woodruff, a product manager at Trane Residential, gave this warning: “There are challenges for some of the warmer areas of the country, which may still periodically need cooling during the fall. Homeowners may turn on the AC and forget the cover is on, and that can hurt the air conditioning system.” In other words, prevent damage by remembering to remove the cover before turning on your AC unit.

What’s the Best Way to Cover Your AC Unit?

Tarp? Fabric cover? Plywood? There’s more to consider when making your choice of the way to cover your AC unit than you might have guessed.

For starters, none of the experts consulted for this story recommended covering an AC compressor unit with a tarp. “That can do more harm than good,” said Houston-based HVAC expert David Lewis. “[It could trap] moisture inside, which can lead to rust and mold.” You need a breathable cover, and the best option, according to Woodruff, is an original equipment manufacturer (OEM) cover fitted to the unit and made of quality materials. “Look for unit covers with ventilation flaps or mesh panels to allow for proper air circulation and avoid the risk of mold,” advises Naughton.

“Placing a piece of plywood on top of the unit can help protect it from falling ice or heavy snow,” said Traub. “But I’d be sure to clear it off as needed.” Many experts were in favor of covering the AC unit with plywood, and in many parts of the country, that’s all you need. Place a piece of plywood on top of the housing that is large enough to cover it and secure it with bricks.

Woodruff pointed out, however, that a plywood cover is inadequate in cold climates where salt is used on the roads. “Salt is corrosive and will cause rust, and so keeping salt off of the unit is generally a good thing.” That’s one more point in favor of a fabric cover, but he also notes another point against it: “A cover provides a wonderful warm spot for mice and other critters to live, and they often like to chew on wires and create other issues.”

Winter Maintenance for AC Units

“Whether or not you choose to cover your A/C unit this winter,” said Naughton, “make sure to clear the surrounding area of dirt, debris, twigs, leaves, and animal nests. While most A/C units are built to withstand weather conditions, a build-up of debris can severely impact its efficiency and performance.”

Hickman added: “And here’s an additional tip: Before winter hits, apply a coil-safe anti-corrosion spray to the AC coils to protect them against rust and moisture. Just make sure to use one specifically designed for HVAC systems. If your area gets a lot of snow, elevate the unit slightly by placing it on bricks or pavers, which helps prevent moisture buildup around the base when snow is melting.”

About the Experts

• Mike Naughton is the founder and CEO of Cleveland-based energy brokerage firm Integrity Energy. He has over 14 years of experience in the energy industry.
• Glenn Wiseman RASDT, RHDT is an experienced HVAC technician and the sales manager at Ottawa-based Top Hat Home Comfort Services.
• Aaron Traub grew up around the HVAC industry. He currently owns Benny’s A/C & Heating in Metairie, LA.
• WG Hickman founded Mississippi-based Tri-County Air Services in 2005.
• Mark Woodruff is Senior Product Manager at Trane Residential.
• David Lewis is a seasoned professional in the field of HVAC, plumbing and home services. He is the owner of Mission AC in Houston, TX.

The post Should You Cover Your Air Conditioner Condenser In the Winter? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Is it truly worth the hype? I tested the Ninesky Dehumidifier in my house for a month in the swampy North Carolina summer to see how it compares to the competition. I’ve tested and used more than a dozen humidity-controlling devices, so I’ll be able to tell you how it compares and whether you should spend your money on it.

What is the Ninesky Dehumidifier?

The Ninesky Dehumidifier is made by Ninesky Goods, a company that claims to have more than 50 years of experience dehumidifier industry. More on that in a second.

There are three models: a 30-ounce, an 85-ounce and an 88-ounce dehumidifier. We’ll be looking at the 85-ounce version, which comes with “ultra-quiet” technology, LED mood lighting, an auto shut-off feature and two fan speed modes.

I’ll be honest: This is not a legitimate company. For one, there’s no proof of them being in business for 50 years anywhere onlineno news articles, no Wikipedia page and no links other than to commerce sites like Amazon. Their website has no “About Us” or “History” page, and their customer testimonials use pictures that are clearly created by artificial intelligence (AI) and can be easily found on other sites that use the same template as NineSky’s.

Their website also mentions their “durable linens,” but they don’t sell anything with linens under the NineSky brand name.

Furthermore, the company is inconsistent in its marketing. On the website and Amazon headline, the dehumidifier is advertised as having an 85-ounce water tank, yet the box and Amazon product specs say it has a 95-ounce tank. This type of discrepancy can be found with their other models, too. It’s possible they updated the models and forgot to change some of the specs, but as you’ll see in a bit, there’s no clear way of knowing which number is correct.

That said, Amazon is filled with these types of unknown brands, and products from such brands often perform well. So, we thought it was still worth reviewing–at the very least, to make sure our readers know that they’re buying from a questionable brand should they choose to go with the NineSky dehumidifier.

Psst: Our Frigidaire Dehumidifier review is based on a product from a company with a proven track record.

Ninesky Dehumidifier Features

85-ounce water tank

Alright, let’s talk about the Ninesky Dehumidifier’s water tank capacity. The company claims it can remove excess moisture from spaces up to 800 square feet and has an 85-ounce water tank, making it a good choice for small aartments or RVs.

As I stated above, the box and other parts of Amazon say the water tank is 95 ounces. So, which is it?

I’m not sure. There are no markings on the water tank. I conducted an unofficial test by emptying the tank into a bowl set on a scale to see what it would weigh. Note: One fluid ounce is roughly one ounce in weight, but that number can change based on many factors, so this is a very, very unscientific test. I also don’t have a measuring cup or bowl that goes up to 85 or 95 ounces, so this is the best I could do.

Either way, I got nowhere near 85 or 95 ounces on the scale. The closest I got was around 65-75 ounces, but again, that shouldn’t be taken as a hard-and-true fact.

Don’t get me wrong. This thing works, and there’s a clear difference in the air when I have it on compared to when it’s off. I just question the accuracy of this company’s claims.

Need to rid your room of dust and other airborne particles? We recommend checking out the NuWave OxyPure Air Purifier or Blueair Air Purifier.

Quiet Operation

The Ninesky Dehumidifier advertises itself as “ultra-quiet,” yet I’m typing this review with it in the same room as the machine, and I can definitely hear it. It’s not loud, but it kind of sounds like a laptop or gaming console fan that’s been running for a while. I’ve definitely used quieter dehumidifiers.

There is a night mode that drops the fan speed to a lower setting that’s supposed to be quieter, though I don’t notice a difference.

Auto Shut-off

The Ninesky Dehumidifier’s auto shut-off function works as advertised. The company says it removes up to 34 ounces of water per day, and I found it took about a day and a half to two days (depending on the humidity) for it to get full. There are some dehumidifiers out there that fail to shut off when full, which results in spills, but that’s not an issue here. I would’ve liked to see a drainage hose option for people who want to run it continuously, but on the bright side, it’s easy to remove the tank and empty it when needed.

If you need a continuously running dehumidifier but don’t have the budget for one, check out our guide to creating a DIY self-draining dehumidifier.

LED Mood Lighting

Here’s another honest take: I don’t like LED mood lighting on any dehumidifier, so I’m not going to knock the Ninesky Dehumidifier too much for having it. I personally don’t see the point of having it, as they’re never bright enough to really make a difference.

If that is your cup of tea, you’ll have seven colors to choose from that can rotate or be set to one color. The dehumidifier’s black shell helps the colors pop more than white dehumidifiers.

How We Tested It

As Family Handyman‘s resident dehumidifier tester and expert, I’ve used more than a dozen small, rechargeable and crawl space dehumidifiers to combat the humid North Carolina weather.

I placed the Ninesky Dehumidifier in my office since that room gets humid very quickly compared to other parts of the house. I took note of how it sounded, how quickly it drew water from the air, the ease of use and whether any issues came up during my testing.

Pros

• Affordable
• Compact
• Lightweight
• Two-speed operation
• LED mood lighting
• Easy-to-remove water tank

Cons

• Not as quiet as advertised
• Tank capacity is unclear

FAQ

Why is the power light blinking on my Ninesky dehumidifier?

The power light on your Ninesky dehumidifier could be due to a power or fan issue. If your power is fine, the fan might require maintenance or be close to failure.

Should I keep my Ninesky dehumidifier on all night?

Yes, if you live in a particularly humid area, you can keep your Ninesky dehumidifier all night. I didn’t think it was the quietest dehumidifier, though it should be fine if placed on the opposite side of a bedroom.

What Other Reviewers and Experts Had to Say

As of this writing, the Ninesky Dehumidifier with an 85-ounce water tank has an average rating of 4.3 on Amazon, with almost 1,100 of the 1,468 reviews being five-star ratings.

“This has been on all day in my room and I am very happy with what I see,” writes five-star Amazon reviewer Krista. “I love that it’s as easy as just plugging in and seeing it do its work. I’m very happy with this for the price that I paid.”

Other reviewers were less than impressed with its functionality. “It will not even dent the humidity of a room,” writes one-star Amazon reviewer Rando. “I bought it hoping it would at least moderate the humidity in a 200 sq. ft. bedroom, and it has practically no effect. Don’t waste your time and money, buy something bigger and more powerful that will actually do the job.”

Ninesky Dehumidifier vs GE Dehumidifier

The DE Dehumidifier costs about four times as much as the Ninesky Dehumidifier, so is it worththe money? The answer, as always, is it depends. If you’re in a larger living space or need abasement dehumidifier, opt for the GE since it’s rated for up to 4,500 square feet and has a 50-pint container.

The GE Dehumidifier also has a continuous drain option. While it’s not as lightweight as the Ninesky, it has wheels so you can roll it from room to room. The GE also has an adjustable fan that sets itself based on the room’s humidity, whereas the Ninesky runs at the same speed when in day or night mode.

The GE Dehumidifier is Energy Star-certified, whereas Ninesky just says it’s energy-efficient (but doesn’t have specific evidence to back it up).

The Midea Dehumidifier offers many of the same features as the GE Dehumidifier at a slightly lower price.

Final Verdict

Is the Ninesky Dehumidifier the best option out there? No. It works just like any other dehumidifier of its size, with the exception of it being a bit louder than similar models. It’s made my office more comfortable and comes at.a good price. If you don’t need the best-of-the-best, this might be a decent option as long as you’re OK with a little noise.

Where to Buy the Ninesky Dehumidifier

The Ninesky Dehumidifier is only available on Amazon. The list price is around $90, though it was less than $60 at the time of this writing.

The post Ninesky Dehumidifier Review: Here’s What We REALLY Think appeared first on Family Handyman.

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The IQ Air AirVisual Pro Indoor Monitor is our top pick for indoor air quality monitors because it gives you tips on how to improve your air quality. The built-in air quality coach lets you know if you should run an air purifiersuch as the NuWave OxyPure Air Purifier or open/close your windows depending on your environment so you can be proactive about the changes you see on the monitor and the app.

To be honest, none of the monitors I tested ever picked up concerning levels of particulate matter, carbon monoxide or volatile organic compounds. The only time the IQ Air AirVisual Pro Indoor Monitor ever recommended any action was when I was cooking, and even then, it was just to open the window for a few minutes.

Another great feature is the ability to monitor outdoor air quality on the same monitor and app, similar to the air quality forecast on a weather app. I also like that it easily provides you with historical data to track changes in air quality over time, though, to be honest, the smartphone app was janky and unresponsive at times. Luckily, you can read your data simply by logging onto the company’s website and logging into your account.

Other than that, it checks all the boxes you’d want in an air monitor: lightweight, compact, accurate, easy to understand and app-compatible.

The post 5 Best Air Quality Monitors to Keep a Healthy Home, Tested and Reviewed appeared first on Family Handyman.

I’ve been using it to combat humid North Carolina summers for two years now, and while it’s not my primary dehumidifier, it’s been useful in maintaining good air quality in my office and bathrooms. I can use it in multiple rooms because it’s lightweight and under $50, so it’s a cost-friendly investment for RVs, dorm rooms, or any place 215 square feet or under.

My Pro Breeze Dehumidifier review will discuss my experience with this machine, its pros and cons and how it compares to similar dehumidifiers I’ve used.

What is the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier?

ANTHONY O REILLY/FAMILY HANDYMAN

$39.99 at Walmart

$39.99 at Amazon

$44.99 at Home Depot

Pro Breeze Portable Dehumidifier

$39.99 at Walmart

$39.99 at Amazon

$44.99 at Home Depot

The Pro Breeze Dehumidifier is a compact and budget-friendly dehumidifier that can remove excess moisture in spaces up to 215 square feet. Excess moisture feels uncomfortable, and the water vapor can damage clothes, collectibles and even parts of your home.

If your closet has an outlet, it can also be used in closets to prevent clothes from getting damaged or smelly. It can hold two cups of water before automatically shutting off, and the company claims it costs around a cent per day to run.

Dehumidifiers work by drawing the air in a room or other space, such as a crawlspace, and passing it over a frigid coil that causes the water vapor to turn into a liquid that is collected in a bin. Many people pair a dehumidifier with an air purifier, such as the Blueair Air Purifier or NuWave OxyPure, to get rid of any harmful airborne particles.

While some dehumidifiers have a drainage hose option that allows them to run continuously, the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier must be emptied manually before it can continue working.

Pro Breeze Dehumidifier Features

Quiet

When I say that the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier is quiet, I mean it sounds like a white noise machine. So unlike a Midea dehumidifier, it won’t keep you up at night or be heard during your company Zoom call.

I placed it on my nightstand to see if it would be bothersome in a dorm or other small bedroom. Again, it wasn’t whisper-quiet, but I was able to easily fall asleep, especially once I put in my earplugs.

Portable and Lightweight

The Pro Breeze Dehumidifier weighs less than three pounds, so it should be no problem for most able-bodied people to carry it from room to room. There’s not really a handle on it, so you have to grab the entire unit, but with how small it is, that’s not an issue. The plug can also be disconnected from the main unit to avoid having to drag the cord on the floor.

16-ounce Water Tank

The Pro Breeze Dehumidifier can hold up to 16 ounces of water, so it’s best for small bedrooms, studio apartments, college dorms or closets that are susceptible to excess moisture. I’ve used this in bathrooms for the most part. During the summer, it has to be emptied about once a day. There’s no continuous drain option, which would have been nice for those days you’re away and want to keep it running to keep the room comfortable.

The tank easily comes out and can be dumped into a sink, tub, or to water certain plants.

If you’re looking for a basement dehumidifier, we recommend the Frigidaire dehumidifier.

Energy Efficient

The Pro Breeze Dehumidifier is not an Energy Star-certified appliance, but it’s still quite energy-efficient. The company’s official website says this specific model’s 0.023 kilowatt-hours (a unit of measurement to gauge energy usage) is about the same as most ceiling fans use. In terms of your utility bill, appliances with similar energy usage cost less than a penny per hour to run.

In other words, you could hypothetically leave this on for an entire day, and your energy bill would go up by less than a quarter for the month. That’s a good price to pay for relief from the humidity.

How We Tested It

As Family Handyman’s resident dehumidifier expert, I’ve tested more than a dozen full-sized, small, basement, crawl space and rechargeable dehumidifiers in my North Carolina home. For those who don’t know, the Tar Heel State experiences perpetual humidity from May to September. It sometimes feels so swampy that I wouldn’t be surprised if Shrek has a summer house in the state.

I’ve used the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier for about two years in three different homes, mainly in my bathrooms, to ensure the excess humidity keeps the room comfortable and the moisture doesn’t cause bad odors to linger (you know exactly what type of odors I’m referring to).

I also used it in my bedroom for a few nights to monitor its noise level and see if it would be a good fit for college students or apartment dwellers.

Pros

• Lightweight
• Portable
• Budget-friendly
• Quiet
• Auto shut-off function
• Energy-efficient

Cons

• Only covers up to 215 square feet

FAQ

Does the Pro Breeze dehumidifier work?

According to a North Carolina homeowner who’s used the Pro Breeze dehumidifier for about two years, it works, but it’s a small dehumidifier, so it will take a while to get rid of all the excess moisture in the air.

How much does it cost to run a Pro Breeze dehumidifier?

According to Pro Breeze’s website, the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier costs a penny per day to run (if left on for 24 hours).

What are the modes of the Pro Breeze dehumidifier?

The small Pro Breeze Dehumidifier only has an on and an off mode. Other Pro Breeze Dehumidifiers have adjustable humidity settings and fan speeds.

What Other Reviewers/Experts Had to Say

At the time of this writing, the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier had a 3.8 rating on Amazon, with about half of the nearly 51,000 reviews being five-star ratings.

“For the money and the size of the space I’ve inhabited (either a small dorm room or a 1-bedroom apartment) it’s worked very well,” says five-star Amazon reviewer Hannah. “It’s also genuinely quiet, and I like that it shuts of automatically when full. I’m very happy with the unit for what I spent on it.”

Many of the negative reviews come from people who say the machine lasted a short period.

“Purchased one of the dehumidifiers and it quit working after two or three months,” says one-star Amazon reviewer RockHound. “I immediately contacted customer support who, by the way, were amazing to work with, and they shipped me out a replacement. Well, within approximately one month the replacement stop working. This time when I reached out to customer support, they told me to just not to bother about providing proof of anything and they just refunded my money.”

The reviewer went on to say that a third one also broke within a few weeks of arriving at their house.

I’ve used it for two summers in humid North Carolina, and it’s withstood the test of time.

Pro Breeze Dehumidifier vs Gocheer Upgraded Air Dehumidifier

The Gocheer Upgraded Air Dehumidifier was our top pick for small dehumidifiers, and for a good reason. It only costs $20 more than the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier and is quieter, has a larger water tank capacity (68 ounces compared to the Pro Breeze’s 16-ounce tank, comes with a continuous drain hose option and a sleep mode (which the Pro Breeze does not have).

The Pro Breeze is much simpler to operate than the Gocheer. The latter has multiple buttons that could be confusing for those unfamiliar with dehumidifiers, whereas the Pro Breeze only has an on/off switch.

Final Verdict

The Pro Breeze Dehumidifier is one of those products that is, objectively, not the best. I don’t mean it’s bad, because it’s not. So long as you’re only using it in small spaces that don’t require a continuous drainage hose option. Many Amazon customers have complaints about its long-term durability, but as someone who’s used it for two years, I can attest that it gets the job done.

Are there better options out there? Yes. For people on a very tight budget, the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier will still get the job done.

Where to Buy the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier

ANTHONY O REILLY/FAMILY HANDYMAN

$39.99 at Walmart

$39.99 at Amazon

$44.99 at Home Depot

Pro Breeze Portable Dehumidifier

$39.99 at Walmart

$39.99 at Amazon

$44.99 at Home Depot

The Pro Breeze Dehumidifier is available through Amazon for less than $50. It is also available at Walmart and The Home Depot for the same price.

The post Pro Breeze Dehumidifier Review: My Honest Thoughts After a Year of Testing appeared first on Family Handyman.

Because of the home’s age, it frequently leaks. Despite several upgrades over the years, it’s still drafty in the winter and damp during the Minnesota summers, especially in the basement. I struggle with combinations of humidifiers in the winter and dehumidifiers in the summer to maintain humidity control in my shop.

Having more than thirty years of experience in home remodeling and repair has allowed me to see the effects of humidity in houses that aren’t protected by dehumidifiers. In severe cases, I’ve found situations that included material deterioration and mold occurrencesMinnesota’s crazy weather can do that with ease.

I tested the $150 Hisense dehumidifier, which proved to be a worthy opponent to the excessive moisture in my space. Check out the full 4-1-1 on this dehumidifier to see if it’s the right choice for you.

Want to see all the dehumidifiers I’ve tried? Check out the best dehumidifiers for basements.

What is the Hisense dehumidifier?

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$149.99 at Amazon

$259 at Lowe's

Hisense Dehumidifier

$149.99 at Amazon

$259 at Lowe's

The Hisense 50-pint dehumidifier claims to control humidity in a home as large as 4,500 square feet. My basement and my home combined are not quite 2,000 square feet. However, with the level of performance I demand from the dehumidifiers I use for woodworking, it’s a pretty fair comparison.

Honestly, I’m a bit doubtful that any of the machines I tested could dehumidify a large home on their own without another method of circulating the air; they’re simply not large enough to move air through that big of a space.

This is where the Hisense makes sense (hehe, get it?). Costing up to $100 less than more well-known brand names, the Hisense is affordable enough to put one on each floor of the house (if needed). I would expect the Hisense dehumidifier to handle a single story with ease, with or without a wood shop involved.

Compact yet full-sized, this machine offers a generously sized condensation tank, which minimizes the need to empty it constantly. The machine also has the ability to bypass the reservoir with a drain hose to avoid the task altogether. It’s relatively heavy at 40 pounds or so, and the handles for carrying could be designed better. However, it’s on wheels for easy transportation, and it’s one of the quietest dehumidifiers that I’ve come across.

Hisense Dehumidifier Features

The Hisense dehumidifier has most of the same comfort and convenience features as more costly models. It features a 50-pint reservoir to catch the water it pulls from the surrounding air. The unit also contains a bypass connection with a hose attachment to avoid having to empty the reservoir when it’s full. If you choose to use the reservoir, it has an automatic shut-off-when-full feature to keep water from going everywhere.

The model’s other features include seemingly durable wheels for everyday use if you need to move the machine around. Its molded carrying handles seem designed more for looks than functionality. That said, they worked okay for me to get the unit up and down the stairs to the basement.

Hisense did the filter right on this dehumidifier. It features a micro-mesh design placed directly on the back of the machine for easy access when it’s time to clean it. What I like best is that removing the filter exposes the coil fins. While many dehumidifier models conceal the fins within the machine, making them hard to clean if the task becomes necessary, the Hisense makes cleaning easy with a coil fin brush.

From an operational standpoint, the Hisense dehumidifier features automatic operation, sleep mode, timer, digital display and humidity settings, a filter cleaning reminder indicator, plus high- and low-speed operation. The low speed of the unit is extremely quiet, while the high-speed setting is roughly as loud as that of a compact dehumidifier.

How We Tested It

The testing process for dehumidifiers in my home and woodworking shop seemingly never ends. In efforts to control humidity for this purpose, I’ve gone through a number of them over the years. For this review, I used the Hisense dehumidifier for two weeks, including one week with the reservoir and one week with the drain hose.

I set to the lowest possible setting of 30% humidity. Using the reservoir, I had to empty the machine at least once per day after a period of heavy rainfall. A few days during testing required me to empty the reservoir once during the day and again before bed to ensure it ran all night.

I liked the machine better with the drain hose attached, which meant I could set it and forget it, like you can with a self-draining dehumidifier. My only complaints are that the filter-cleaning indicator would turn on once every couple of days, even when it didn’t appear to require cleaning, and the reservoir, while functional, seemed somewhat flimsy, including the handle. While it’s likely just fine, I would have liked something that felt a little more beefy. Other than that, it ran like a champ, hovering at between 30% and 32% humidity anytime I checked.

Pros

• Super quiet low-speed operation
• Large capacity water reservoir
• Reservoir bypass option for continuous operation
• Heavy-duty power cord
• Budget-friendly pricing
• EnergyStar certified
• Accessible coil fins for deep cleaning ability

Cons

• Carrying handles could be designed better
• Water reservoir handle and construction are a little flimsy
• 4,500-square-foot capacity seems a bit overstated

FAQ

What should I set my Hisense dehumidifier to?

The humidity setting you choose for your dehumidifier depends on what feels comfortable to you. While many dehumidifiers can be set as low as 30%, some homeowners find that setting too low, and the air becomes too dry for comfort. For those who live in humid locations, a setting of 50% is usually adequate to feel a difference from the outdoors. In any case, for your home’s well-being, choose a setting between 30% and 50% for the best results.

What is the continuous mode on a Hisense dehumidifier?

Understanding what a dehumidifier does can help you understand continuous mode on your Hisense machine. When operating your dehumidifier at a particular humidity setting, the machine will stop removing water from the air when it reaches the desired level.

In continuous mode, the machine will keep running to remove as much water vapor from the air as it can, regardless of the humidity setting. The feature is useful when trying to dry out a room or an area that’s been affected by large amounts of humidity for a short time.

How do I get my Hisense dehumidifier to drain through a hose?

Getting your Hisense dehumidifier to drain through a hose is a simple matter of connecting a hose with a garden hose fitting onto the provided drain attachment. The fitting is found behind a small access door on the left side of the machine and is visible when the water reservoir is removed. There’s no need to remove the reservoir or make any other adjustments once the hose is attached.

What Other Reviewers/Experts Had to Say

Of Lowe’s customers who purchased and reviewed the Hisense Dehumidifier, 60% gave the machine five stars. Positive reviews cite the dehumidifier’s efficient operation even after up to five years. However, some negative reviews point to a seemingly common problem with the unit.

Several customers complain of receiving an E9 code in the machine’s display within or after a year of operation or so. The E9 code means the machine can’t communicate with the humidity sensor, rendering the machine mostly unusable.

While the sensor is replaceable, it’s likely more trouble than most homeowners want to deal with. Fortunately, this situation, while noted in the reviews, seems to affect only a very small percentage of units sold.

Hisense Dehumidifier vs GE Dehumidifier

The Hisense 50-Pint 2-Speed dehumidifier is a full-sized unit designed for use throughout a home for overall humidity control. The GE dehumidifier is more of a one-room-at-a-time model. While both products appear in our review of the best dehumidifiers for basements, the GE model is perhaps better suited for small spaces.

The GE dehumidifier has a 20-pint capacity compared to the Hisense’s 50-pint bucket. However, you can attach a drain hose for continuous draining. The GE offers an auto defrost option, which isn’t available on the Hisense. However, the two machines are really best for different types of humidity-control needs.

If you’re looking to effectively control the humidity in one room at a time, the GE is more portable and efficient than the Hisense. On the other hand, if you need a dehumidifying workhorse for a large area, consider the Hisense.

Read more about other dehumidifiers we’ve tested, including the Midea Dehumidifier, Frigidaire Dehumidifier, and Eva-Dry Dehumidifier, the latter of which we think is one of the best small dehumidifiers.

Final Verdict

While there may be some concerns about the Hisense reviews stating trouble with the E9 codes, the problem is limited to a small number of machines in the big picture. My testing revealed the machine to be hard-working enough to handle my needs for controlling humidity in my woodworking shop, which isn’t an easy task.

Customers looking for a powerful dehumidifier that can handle big jobs at a budget-friendly price might do well choosing the Hisense dehumidifier.

I wouldn’t recommend the Hisense for doing the work of one of the best crawl space dehumidifiersthey have a hard job. But because of how powerful the Hisense is, I recommend attaching a drain hose to it for continuous draining, especially in homes with high humidity levels.

Where to Buy the Hisense Dehumidifier

VIA MERCHANT

$149.99 at Amazon

$259 at Lowe's

Hisense Dehumidifier

$149.99 at Amazon

$259 at Lowe's

The Hisense dehumidifier is available at Lowe’s and Amazon for $152 to $214.

The post Hisense Dehumidifier Review: A Budget-Friendly Option to Keep Humidity at Bay appeared first on Family Handyman.

That stench was likely caused by excess humidity, which led to mold and mildew, which can also present health risks. There were very few ways to address this issue back then without extensive and expensive repairs, but luckily, that’s not the case now.

Today, you can stick an Eva-Dry dehumidifier in there and save your clothes and closet. Because it doesn’t use electricity and is reusable, you can place it in safes to keep firearms, collectibles, or other items from being damaged by humidity.

I’ve used the Eva-Dry dehumidifier for nearly a year, and to be honest, I’m obsessed with it. My clothes have never smelled fresher, and at under $25, it’s a no-brainer if you live in a humid area or need to keep moisture out of a confined area.

What is the Eva-Dry dehumidifier?

VIA MERCHANT

$14.97 at Amazon

Eva-Dry Mini Dehumidifier

$14.97 at Amazon

Eva-Dry dehumidifiers come in different shapes for various purposes, including some self-drainingmodels, but today, we’re looking at the Eva-Dry Renewable dehumidifier. It’s a little smaller than a Nintendo Switch or a Nintendo DSif you’re old school, making it easy to store in safes or closets.

The renewable aspect refers to the non-toxic crystallized silica gel that attracts and absorbs extra moisture in the air without electricity and can be reused. Once the beads in the center display turn from orange to green, you plug it in to heat the unit to get rid of the absorbed moisture. It can then be used again, thus repeating the cycle.

It can work in spaces up to 333 square feet, which is larger than my last New York City apartment. So, it could even be used as abasement dehumidifier for some smaller homes. For this Eva-Dry review, I used onein a small bathroom and the other in a closet.

Eva Dry Dehumidifier Features

Let’s take a look at some of the most notable features of this nifty dehumidifier.

Renewable

The Eva-Dry dehumidifier uses crystallized silica gel to absorb four to six ounces of moisture from the air. The company claims it can be reused for about 10 years by heating the gel about every month to release the stored water (more on that in a second).

These gels are sometimes used in cat litter to reduce odors, and they can absorb up to 40% of their weight in water vapor. They capture the humidity by storing it in microscopic capillaries and holding it there until releasedin the case of Eva-Dry, by being heated when plugged into a standard outlet. It takes about 10 hours to completely dry it out, at which point it can be reused wherever you had it. Be warned: The unit will get hot when charging, so it’s best not to touch the front of it.

The gel is orange and turns green when it’s at its maximum capacity and needs to be plugged in.

One thing to keep in mind is that you cannot customize how much moisture the gels absorb like you can with electric dehumidifiers.

Compact

The Eva-Dry dehumidifier is the smallest we’ve tested, yet it can work in rooms up to 333 square feet, about the same as some electronic models out there (reminder: this only uses electricity to release the water vapors). This allows it to be stashed in a corner, on a shelf, or in most safes.

Although they’re technically sealed, humidity can still enter safes and cause rust or mold/mildew growth, which could damage what’s inside. For example, the inner parts of a firearm could rust if exposed to humidity, possibly causing it to malfunction or misfire.

You could even use it as a crawl space dehumidifier.

Long-Lasting

I know one of your top questions is, “How long does the Eva-Dry dehumidifier last?” To be honest, I don’t know. The company states it can hold anywhere from 4 to 6 ounces of water. For reference, that’s about three-quarters of a cup. I’ll get into how long it took to get there in a little bit, but the short answer is, “It depends where you put it.” The company claims it can last for 20 to 30 days.

Cordless

For my money, one of the best features of the Eva-Dry dehumidifier is that it’s cordless. You might be asking, “How do you plug it in?” There’s a plug located on the back that can be used when it’s time to heat the silica gel. This makes it compact and portable, and because it doesn’t use electricity to run (only when drying out), it is 100% quiet.

How We Tested It

I originally tested the Eva-Dry dehumidifier when researching our best small dehumidifiers roundup, and I loved it so much I bought another one to use elsewhere around the house. I’ve had one in the master bedroom closet and the other in the laundry room.

I wrote down when I first placed one of the units in their respective location and then marked the date when the silica gel turned from orange to green, indicating when it had absorbed all the moisture.

As you could probably guess, the one in the laundry room needed to be recharged much quicker than the one in the closet. The former only took about five days, and the latter lasted about three weeks to a month, depending on the weather.

It’s hard to measure this, but I’ve also kept track of how “fresh” the closet has smelled and felt, and I can tell you there’s been a considerable change. We live in the suburbs of Charlotte, NC, where we’re sweating harder than a snowman in Phoenix from May to September due to the excess humidity. To be clear, it’s not going to provide relief the way my Midea dehumidifier does, but without it, I’d have damp clothes.

I prefer to line-dry most of my laundry, which is pretty difficult with all that excess water already in the air. Since using the Eva-Dry Renewable dehumidifier, my clothes have dried quicker and more thoroughly.

Lastly, I timed how long it took to heat the unit and turn the silica gel from green back to orange so it could go back in its place. It was generally around the 10-hour mark advertised by the company, giving or taking an hour depending on the temperature of the place where you place it.

Another suggestion for a dehumidifier for larger spaces? Check out our Frigidaire dehumidifier review.

FAQ

How long do Eva-Dry dehumidifiers last?

Eva-Dry says its renewable dehumidifiers can last about a month before needing to be plugged in to release the water, though it can be shorter or longer than that depending on how humid it is in the area you put it.

Can you leave Eva-Dry plugged in?

No, it’s advised to unplug the Eva-Dry Renewable dehumidifier after it has released all of the stored water vapor so you don’t damage the silica gels or the unit, which gets hot when plugged in.

How does the Eva-Dry dehumidifier work?

The Eva-Dry Renewable dehumidifier uses crystallized silica gel that attracts, absorbs and stores water vapors using microscopic capillaries that can hold up to 40% of their weight. The gels turn from orange to green when full and will hold onto the moisture until it’s released via the heat produced by plugging the unit in. Once all the water’s gone and the gels are orange, the dehumidifier can be placed back in its original spot (like a musty closet).

What Other Reviewers/Experts Had to Say

The Eva-Dry Renewable dehumidifier has a 4.2 average rating on Amazon, with more than 20,000 of the nearly 33,000 reviews being five stars. “Its rapid, effective, and energy-efficient design has been a welcome change, as it quickly removes excess moisture from the air with no leaks, spills, or unpleasant odors,” says Florida resident and five-star reviewer CZDM.

Negative reviewers said the unit didn’t perform as advertised, with some showing pictures of hardened spices or other signs of excess moisture in areas where they had placed an Eva-Dry dehumidifier.

“[I] put [it] back in the closet, this time adding another dehumidifier bag that I bought from Home Depot, and in two weeks that bag was full of water, but this little unit still shows the same orange window like the day I received it,” says one-star customer reviewer Shaun Meyer.

Eva-Dry Dehumidifier vs Pro Breeze Dehumidifier

Pro Breeze produces and sells air conditioners, heaters, air purifiers and dehumidifiers, like Eva-Dry. The brand doesn’t have a cordless, renewable option like Eva-Dry, though it has several small dehumidifiers. I’ve used the Pro Breeze Electric Mini dehumidifier, and think it’s another great choice for small spaces.

Right off the bat, the Pro Breeze has a larger capacity than the Eva-Dry renewable, capable of holding up to 8.45 ounces of water, while the Eva-Dry can hold anywhere from 4 to 6 ounces.

The Pro Breeze is good for spaces up to 205 square feet, which is actually smaller than the Eva-Dry’s 333-square-foot coverage area. Still, I think there’s a case to be made for the Pro Breeze because it’s more efficient at its job.

You’ll feel relief from the humidity much quicker with the Pro Breeze than the Eva-Dry, because the electric unit is more powerful at sucking in water vapors than the crystallized silica gel. So if you’re looking for a dehumidifier because it’s uncomfortable in a room or RV/camper, go for the Pro Breeze. If you’re just looking to keep excess moisture from ruining a small area like a closet or safe (or you’re on a tight budget), the Eva-Dry is your pick.

By the way, consider complementing your dehumidifier with a compact air purifier like the Blueair Air Purifier to eliminate other airborne nuisances.

Final Verdict

There are very few products that I outright recommend to virtually everyone, but I can’t think of a single person (minus those in climates where excess humidity simply isn’t a concern) who shouldn’t buy the Eva-Dry Renewable dehumidifier. The cordless, compact, renewable and energy efficient. Most importantly, it’s incredibly effective at its job, at least in my experience, with two of them across two different apartments and one home.

It’s not ideal for making huge rooms more comfortable, but it can prevent excess moisture from ruining clothes, firearms, or collectibles sensitive to water vapors.

Where to Buy the Eva Dry Dehumidifier

The Eva-Dry Renewable dehumidifier is available on Amazon for less than $25. It is also available at Home Depot for the same price.

The post Over 30,000 People Love the Eva-Dry Mini Dehumidifier—Here’s Why It’s a Gamechanger for Musty Closets appeared first on Family Handyman.

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$799.99 at Amazon

Shop on Walmart

Senville mini split systems top our list of the best mini split brands. Senville offers numerous mini split models that vary by size, capacity and price. However, the most telling factor for us regarding the company is its high overall customer satisfaction rating. While HVAC makers in general often struggle with customer review scores, Senville maintains a 4.7-star rating on Trustpilot, with 84% of customers awarding it five stars.

Senville mini split efficiency ratings, measured in SEER (seasonal energy efficiency ratio), vary between 18 SEER to over 25 SEER. Considering a SEER rating of 20 is considered excellent, the company offers some of the highest average efficiency ratings available. Additionally, Senville’s pricing starts under $700 for a single-room model. One of its 20-SEER 9,000-BTU units, capable of conditioning a 450-square-foot room, retails for $699 at Walmart.

The post These Are the 5 Best Mini Split Brands, According to HVAC Experts appeared first on Family Handyman.

However, if you pair a heat pump with a traditional furnace, they work together to cool a home in the summer and heat it even during bitterly cold winters.

Read on to learn more about this efficient heating and cooling system with insights from two heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) pros Liam Hogan from Hogan Mechanical Incorporated and Alexander Siv from Amherst Heating and Plumbing.

What Is a Dual-Fuel Heat Pump HVAC System?

This type of HVAC system relies on a connected heat pump and furnace to meet a home’s heating and cooling needs. The heat pump provides heat during cooler seasons, like fall and spring, while the furnace provides heat in the winter. “Heat pumps are really efficient and limit gas usage, so are a nice alternative heat source in a home during cool, but not cold months,” Hogan says.

Additionally, in warmer summer months, a dual-fuel system also works like a high-efficiency central air conditioner. “It’s like the best of both worlds,” Siv says. “You get the efficiency of the heat pump for cooling in the summer and some heat in the spring and fall. Then, in the winter, you get the heating efficiency of a furnace.”

How Does a Heat Pump with Furnace System Work

A dual-fuel heat pump with a furnace system alternates between using electricity to power the heat pump and gas or oil to power the furnace. Outside temperatures are the catalyst for the change within the system.

Cold Weather Operation

As long as the temperature is above 35 degrees F or so, a heat pump can pull heat from the outside air. Under ideal conditions, it can transfer 300 percent more energy than it consumes. So, during cooler seasons like fall and spring, the heat pump handles the heating duties.

The dual-fuel system still incorporates the furnace but does not use burners, just its air distribution features. The heat pump sends hot “refrigerant” through the furnace’s air conditioning coil. The furnace fan draws air from the home’s cold-air returns, blows that air over the warm coil and then sends the warmed air throughout the house.

The furnace kicks in for only the coldest months. “In Massachusetts, your thermostat makes the switch to the furnace when it’s 32 degrees outside or colder,” Hogan says.

Warm Weather Operation

As shown in the photo above, an air-source heat pump is basically a hybrid air conditioner. Both have a compressor (a high-pressure pump) that circulates refrigerant (a volatile gas) through indoor and outdoor coils, a network of tubes designed to facilitate the capture and release of heat.

But while an air conditioner can move refrigerant in only one direction, a heat pump can force refrigerant in either direction, for heating one way and cooling the other. The pump does this by means of an extra diverting device called a switchover valve. In the summer, the heat pump reverses the refrigerant flow so cold liquid flows over the coil and cools your home just like a conventional air conditioner.

Will a Heat Pump with a Furnace System Work for Your House?

To figure out whether a heat pump is practical for your home, you’ll need to contact a heating contractor.

• Start with a heating and cooling load analysis. Don’t trust the label on the old furnace; ask your installer to measure and double-check the math. Home improvement projects (new insulation, new windows or an addition) can change your heating and cooling needs.
• Conduct a comparative cost analysis. If you live in an area with lower-priced natural gas and sky-high electrical rates, a heat pump will not pay itself off as quickly. Your installer can factor in local energy rates (including peak and off-peak electrical rates) to calculate your potential savings and payback.
• Ask about compatibility. Dual-fuel heat pumps are designed to be straightforward A/C replacements, but older furnaces probably won’t work with a new switch-hitting system. “It will need to be determined whether the current furnace can be controlled together with the new heat pump equipment,” Siv says.

How Much Does a Heat Pump with Furnace Cost?

A dual-fuel heat pump with a furnace will cost more than a furnace and A/C install. “A typical gas furnace with an air conditioner will be between $8,000 to $10,000,” Hogan says. “Expect to pay between $12,000 to $15,000 for a dual-fuel heat pump with furnace installation.”

What Tax Credits Are Available for Heat Pumps?

In addition to saving money in the long run, a dual-fuel heat pump might pay you back right away. This upgrade may qualify for an energy-savings tax credit plus rebates. Ask your utility company and HVAC installer about available incentives in your area.

FAQ

What are the downsides to a heat pump?

Heat pumps on their own are not effective in very cold temperatures. While more effective when paired with a furnace, Siv points out that the higher installation cost of a heat pump with furnace system is the main downside. “It’s a great system upgrade if you can afford it,” he says.

At what temperature do heat pumps become ineffective?

Generally, heat pumps are ineffective at 35 degrees F or colder.

Can heat pumps cool your house in 100-degree weather?

Most heat pump models can effectively cool your house in outside temperatures up to 115 degrees F.

What’s the “20 degree rule” for heat pumps?

Never set your thermostat for more than 20 degrees cooler than it is outside. So, if it’s 90 degrees F outside, the thermostat should not be set any lower than 70 degrees F.

About the Experts

• Alexander Siv owns Amherst Heating and Plumbing in Amherst, Massachusetts. He has a master plumber’s license in Massachusetts and more than 10 years of plumbing experience.
• Liam Hogan is the owner of Hogan Mechanical Incorporated a full-service residential and commercial plumbing and heating company in Springfield, Massachusetts. He has ten years of industry experience.

The post Pairing a Heat Pump with Furnace: What to Know About Dual-Fuel Systems appeared first on Family Handyman.

Enter the Shark FlexBreeze Fan with InstaCool Mist. This fan works indoors and outdoors and can be charged to run cordless for up to 24 hours or plugged in for nonstop use. Plus, it has a misting attachment for those extra-hot days and many other cool features Ill get into below.

What is the Shark FlexBreeze Fan?

The Shark FlexBreeze is a versatile fan that functions as a pedestal and tabletop fan. Its lightweight for toting around the house but also works in outdoor spaces. It runs cordless, on a charge or can be plugged into an outlet. It even has a misting attachment for added chill, whether you’re misting yourself, your pet or a few plants.

The FlexBreeze can run for 24 hours on a single charge and is super quiet, even at high speeds. Its sleek design ensures it looks great in any setting.

MARY HENN/FAMILY HANDYMAN

$199.99 at Sharkclean

$199.99 at Amazon

We Tried It

Shark FlexBreeze Fan

A versatile indoor and outdoor fan with a misting attachment

$199.99 at Sharkclean

$199.99 at Amazon

Product Features

The FlexBreeze’s versatility makes it uniqueit truly does it all as far as fans go. It functions both corded and cordless and has a remote control that attaches discretely and conveniently to the fan. You can choose from five different fan speeds and 180 degrees of side-to-side oscillation to cool any room, big or small. The fan tilts up and down, too.

At just over 12 pounds with a large top handle, the FlexBreeze is super portable, so you can haul it around to any room in the house and anywhere in the yard. Its UV- and water-resistant, so you dont have to worry about the elements impacting it, and its surprisingly quiet, so its perfect for sleeping.

The fan has a boost mode that lets you feel its breeze from over 70 feet away, and the misting attachment easily connects to any hose to make an area feel up to 10 degrees cooler.

The FlexBreeze is available in dark grey and has fine rose gold detailing, making it look top-quality, even in an indoor living space. Plus, its backed by a two-year warranty against defects in material or workmanship.

How We Tested It

The Shark FlexBreeze arrived at my doorstep in a medium-sized box. Plenty of protective packaging ensured the fan arrived in pristine condition. Inside the box: The fan, remote, misting attachment and charging cord. I simply pulled the fan from the box and put the pieces together to set it up as a pedestal fan. Theres no assembly required apart from connecting the pieces to use the FlexBreeze as a pedestal fan or tabletop fan.

Upon unboxing, I was immediately impressed by the fan’s lookdark gray with gold hardwareand blown away by its quietness. I dont think Ive ever operated an outdoor fan as quiet as the Shark FlexBreeze.

In pedestal mode, the fan stands about 36 inches tall, which is perfect for cooling off while sitting down. You can also angle the fan head upward to cool off higher points while standing. I did have to charge it for a few hours before using it unplugged, but once it was charged, I got at least 20 hours out of it in different modes.

With the fan oscillating, it had zero issues cooling my hot kitchen, even while I used the oven on a summer night. In tabletop mode, the fan is great for pups who need to cool off on the floor. It also sits nicely on a desk or counter while working in an office or garage. Want to take it with you? It travels well since its compact and cordless. Its great for camping, and Shark even makes an On-the-go Car Charger for the fan.

The misting attachment is an added luxury, especially for our pups, who absolutely love it while lounging on the deck. But its also great for tropical plants; the monstera on our porch is a big fan, too. The body of the fan isnt bulky at all, either. It takes up little space for as much power as it packs, and the pedestal’s base is heavy enough that you dont have to worry about tipping.

While Shark says you can feel the breeze in boost mode from over 70 feet away, I think the fan is best felt 10-15 feet away in fan speeds 1-5. The misting attachment easily snaps onto the front of the fan, which has discrete tubing that runs down the side of the fan and attaches to your garden hose. Its quick to set up, and the mist is fine enough that you wont get noticeably wet.

FAQ

Is the Shark FlexBreeze worth it?

We think so! The fans adaptability to any environment automatically makes it a smart value if you need a fan for indoor and outdoor spaces. Plus, its powerful enough to cool just about any room, has a misting attachment, is surprisingly quiet and looks great.

Does the Shark FlexBreeze oscillate?

It does. It can oscillate and tilt to reach every corner of the room.

What Others Have to Say

Heres what buyers have to say about the Shark FlexBreeze Fan, which has a 4.5-star rating on Amazon.

Verified purchaser Megan Dunigan says, The Shark FlexBreeze is a top contender in the portable fan market, offering robust build quality, excellent battery life, and powerful performance. It’s an excellent choice for anyone looking to stay cool at outdoor events or even just in different areas of their home without the hassle of cords. Its ability to charge while in use ensures uninterrupted comfort, making it a reliable companion on hot days. Highly recommended for those seeking a blend of convenience and effectiveness in their cooling solutions.

Angie D gives it five stars, too. I love Shark products for their quality and ease of use. I have so many in my home, but [I] was initially skeptical when I ordered this. So many brands claim their fans are quiet and are still super loud even on the lowest setting But oh my GOSH this fan is quiet, they say. Worth every single penny. I also recommend purchasing the fan cover to keep it clean when not in use during the off season. Very easy to get on and off and keeps your fan dust free. Thank you Shark for making the best fan on the market!

Final Verdict

I’m sold after using the Shark FlexBreeze for a few months (the hottest months of the year). Its versatility, long battery life, cool mist attachment and sleek look are worth the price tag.

If youre in the market for a portable outdoor fan, the Shark FlexBreeze is my favorite one Ive tried. If you are looking exclusively for an indoor fan and dont need a misting attachment, you might opt for a tower fan like the Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan. However, the FlexBreeze performs great indoors, too.

Where to Buy the Shark FlexBreeze

MARY HENN/FAMILY HANDYMAN

$199.99 at Sharkclean

$199.99 at Amazon

We Tried It

Shark FlexBreeze Fan

A portable fan that can be plugged in or run on battery life

$199.99 at Sharkclean

$199.99 at Amazon

The Shark FlexBreeze Fan retails for $200 at Shark or Amazon. For $10 more at Shark, you can bundle it with a storage cover or car charger. You can also save $30 if you want to skip the cool mist attachment.

The post We Tried the New Shark FlexBreeze Fan, and We’re Blown Away appeared first on Family Handyman.

The concrete pads underair conditionerand heat exchanger units tend to settle over the years. As long as theres no strain on the copper coolant tubes and electrical lines, and the unit stays dry and level, its OK that the air conditioning concrete pad has sunk. But if the concrete air conditioning pad continues to sink and pulls the lines tight, or if water puddles around the unit, youll need to take action.

It’s important to address the issue. A sinking, uneven pad can cause additional strain on your unit because of the extra vibration. A sinking pad can also lead to broken pipes and tubes as well as water pooling up because it can’t drain properly. As with most repairs, you want to address this issue as soon as possible, before it gets worse and leads to bigger problems.

How To Fix a Sinking Air Conditioner Pad

Try working a long board under one end of the concrete air conditioning pad, lifting it up, then packing sand under it. Do the same on the other end of the concrete air conditioning pad, making the pad as level as possible. Lift the concrete air conditioning pad slowly to avoid cracking it.

You shouldn’t need to unhook or remove the condenser unit, but if you do, it might be time to call for pro help.

When To Call a Pro

If the concrete pad breaks apart, you’ll probably have to disconnect the unit. If that’s the case, I would recommend calling a professional HVAC technician to disconnect it for you.

If you’re comfortable working with concrete, you can finish breaking up the pad and remove it. Then, install a new leveled-in one. Consider replacing it with a plastic pad. Theyre available where air conditioners are sold and online.

Another option is to hire concrete professionals to build a new pad for you. They can make sure that it stays level for years to come.

The post What To Do About a Sinking Air Conditioner Pad appeared first on Family Handyman.

I was eager to test the all-new Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan MC710S early this summer to beat the heat and share my findings. Below, Ill give you the rundown on the new air-purifying fan and how it performed in my hot house. If youre looking for other ways to keep your bedroom cool while you sleep, check out my review of the best cooling bed sheets.

What is the Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan?

To say I was curious when I heard Dreo released a smart purifying tower fan is an understatement. Dreo has made some of the best-selling tower fans on Amazon in recent years, and I was in the market for one. (Bonus points for it being a 2-in-1 air purifier and tower fan.)

Unlike most other air purifying fans, the Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan has a dual motor that allows it to function as both a purifier and fan simultaneously and exclusively as a fan or air purifier. The best part? Its designed to rival competitor purifying tower fans like those from Dyson but at a fraction of the price. Its also designed to offer more air speed at lower noise levels.

The dual filtration system is outfitted with HEPA filters, and the whole tower can be controlled through the Dreo app. The app allows you to monitor a rooms temperature and air quality while changing and scheduling the tower’s functions. And if youre not into apps, theres a traditional handheld remote for easy use, and you can always use the buttons on the top of the tower.

VIA MERCHANT

Shop at Dreo

$269.99 at Amazon

We Tried It

Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan

A 2-in-1 device that cools the room while cleaning the air.

Shop at Dreo

$269.99 at Amazon

Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan Product Features

The stand-out feature that makes the Dreo Purifier Tower Fan unique is the dual-motor design, which allows independent cooling and air purification settings. The dual motors deliver airflow up to 27 feet per second with a maximum distance of 39 feet to cool the entire room. The HEPA filters catch 99.97% of small particles, while the pre-filter traps catch large particles from the air.

There are 12 different wind speeds, three purification levels and three oscillation settings, including symmetric, asymmetric and targeted airflow. You can adjust the oscillation angle in increments of five degrees so that the fan cools the exact area you need to be cooled with precision. Theres also an ultra-quiet sleep mode for nighttime cooling.

The Dreo app lets you control the fan remotely while viewing the rooms temperature and air quality when you’re out of the room. You can pair it with Alexa and Google Home for added features like voice control. The device is nearly 47 inches tall and has a diameter of about 11 inches. It weighs just under 18 pounds.

How We Tested It

The Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan arrived at my front door in a large, long box. The box was a bit intimidating at first, but setting up the fan required removing it from the box and plugging it in once it was open.

From there, you can use the fan immediately with the remote control or download the DREO app and pair the fan with your smartphone. The app gives you more control settings that you can access from anywhere. The app combines the buttons on the fans remote control with the information displayed on its touchscreen, like the rooms air quality and temperature, data reports, and the remaining filter life of the fan. The app also lets you set detailed schedules for the fan, pair the fan with your existing smart home devices, control the oscillation angle and purification level, set a child lock on the device, change the display settings and more. It may seem like a lot for a fan, but the app makes using the fan super easy. I also like the overall look and functionality of the appits design makes it simple to use, and I havent yet experienced any hiccups or glitches.

The smart tower fan puts out a significant amount of air. It has 12 wind speeds, and I rarely go past level 10, even on the hottest days. I tend to leave the air purification setting on auto so that it adjusts to the air quality reading. One of the most impressive features of the tower fan is its quietness. The fan can function at 25 decibels, which is barely audible, and the fan and air purifier can function together at 38 decibels, somewhere between a whisper and light rain. Even on the highest settings, I dont find the fan to be loud at all. I like the static noise it puts out, providing a bit of white noise to help my baby sleep at night.

Ive only encountered two issues in the first few months of using the Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan. Sometimes, the fan gets caught up while oscillating. Its nothing major, but Ive noticed that the device momentarily gets stuck when in oscillation mode. The pause is never more than a second or two, but its worth noting. Additionally, Ive wondered whether the temperature reading on the device is totally accurate. With an infant, we monitor each bedroom’s temperature and humidity level with a precise digital device. Occasionally, there will be a discrepancy in the temperature reading between that device and the fan (sometimes as much as 2-3 degrees), even when the two are sitting side by side.

Pros

• High-speed fan with quiet function
• Dual-motor design
• Purifier and fan work individually
• H13 HEPA filter
• Multi-color air quality indicator
• Smart control
• Touchscreen interface
• Easy to set up and turn on
• 12 fan speeds
• 3 purification levels and an auto-purification mode
• 3 oscillation modes
• Oscillation angle can be adjusted
• Sleep mode with quiet function
• Works with Alexa and Google Home
• App is easy to use
• Remote control included
• Carrying handle helps transport from room to room
• Easy to clean

Cons

• Occasionally stalls in oscillation mode
• Room temperature readings may not be 100% accurate
• Not Energy Star certified

FAQ

Do Dreo fans cool the room?

The Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan certainly does! I use it in our medium-sized primary bedroom to help keep my infant (who sleeps in a bedside bassinet) and me cool throughout the night. It cools the entire room and makes us comfortable without issues.

Are Dreo fans quiet?

Yes. Most fans in the Dreo product family operate around 28 decibels on the lowest wind speed settings. While the air purifying system adds a bit of noise when combined with the fan, its still quiet.

How does the Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan compare to the Dyson TP09?

With a 4.5-star rating on Amazon, many buyers compare the Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan to the Dyson TP09.

One five-star reviewer, Ctran, says the Dreo tower fan is taller than the Dyson TP09 and very quiet in comparison to the Dyson. Ctran also says the Dreo fan has a much stronger air output than the Dyson TP09. Additionally, they note that the Dreo fan is significantly cheaper than the Dyson tower fan.

Another review from verified purchaser BD reads: Bought this to supplement my AC and ceiling fans in the hot Georgia summers. Fan provides excellent breeze across a 20-foot room. The ability to adjust the oscillation symmetrically and asymmetrically allows the tower to be placed in any position of the room and still cover all areas. I can’t comment too much on the filtration systems efficiency, however I have witnessed it kick on when cleaning. It automatically detects chemicals in the air and attempts to clean them.

Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan vs. DREO Tower Fan

If youre wondering how the Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan compares to the brands popular standard tower fan, the biggest difference is in the name. One has an air purifying feature, while the other doesnt.

However, the Dreo Tower Fan has more than 26,000 reviews on Amazon with a 4.6-star rating, and it retails for just $70. It also functions at similar quiet noise levels with high windspeeds, oscillates and has timer functions. While you wont get the same smart features (such as app control or smart home pairing), its a compact option at a fraction of the price. While I prefer the overall look and functionality of the Air Purifier Tower Fan, the regular Dreo Tower Fan is an excellent budget-saving pick, especially if you already have another air purifying device.

Final Verdict

If youve been looking for a 2-in-1 air purifier fan, the Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan is a top contender. Its quiet, effective and relatively affordable compared to similar products from competitor brands. Plus, the fan and purifier operate independently for different uses. Its smart features allow for voice and app control, and it has an H13 HEPA filter that traps small particles to help maintain your air quality.

Ive been pleasantly surprised by the Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan and would recommend it to anyone looking for a 2-in-1 air purifier fan.

Where to Buy the Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan

VIA MERCHANT

Shop at Dreo

$269.99 at Amazon

We Tried It

Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan

An ultra-quiet, air-purifying tower fan with smart features.

Shop at Dreo

$269.99 at Amazon

The Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan is available on Amazon for $300 or directly from Dreo for the same price. Dreo offers free shipping, a 30-month extended warranty, and a 30-day money-back guarantee if you dont like the fan.

The post Dreo Tower Fan Review: This New Smart Fan Keeps You Cool While Purifying the Air appeared first on Family Handyman.

That’s where my Midea dehumidifier comes in handy. I’m not exaggerating when I say this thing has become a lifesaver in recent weeks, and I intend to keep it running until Mother Nature decides to bless me with a cool, crisp breeze again.

In my Midea dehumidifier review, I’ll explain why this machine impressed me so much, the features that separate it from other dehumidifiers and who should consider one for their living space or crawl space.

What is the Midea dehumidifier?

Midea may not be a household name like GE or Samsung, but the Chinese-based company is one of the largest appliance manufacturers in the world. They make everything from refrigerators to air fryers, though they’re best known for their air conditioners and dehumidifiers.

The Energy Star-certified Midea dehumidifier I’m talking about today comes in three sizes based on your living space 1,500, 3,000 and 4,500 square feet options. Like other dehumidifiers out there, it sucks excess moisture out of the air and collects the water in a tank located at the bottom of the machine on the front side panel.

But unlike similar machines, it comes with premium features such as adjustable humidity, wheels and a quiet noise level despite being on the larger side. It can also be connected to the Midea Air app to monitor its performance and your room’s air quality.

VIA MERCHANT

$249 at Amazon

I Tried It

Midea Dehumidifier

An Energy Star-certified dehumidifier that covers up to 4,500 square feet

$249 at Amazon

Midea Dehumidifier Features

I’ve tested and used more than ten dehumidifiers, so let me tell you why the Midea Energy Star-certified dehumidifier is the only one I’ve kept and continue to use.

Side venting

The Midea dehumidifier uses side air venting, unlike most dehumidifiers that vent from the top or the back. Honestly, I don’t think this made much of a difference in performance. If anything, they probably went with side venting because you’re less likely to block the airflow that way.

For example, if you had a dehumidifier with a vent in the back, you couldn’t place it flush against a wall because the vents would be blocked. I also think the air feels much cooler coming out of the sides than from the back or top, and though I have no way of proving that it was other online reviewers mentioned, I’m not the only one who thinks it.

Although dehumidifiers don’t cool rooms, I have to say that my room does feel considerably cooler when this thing is running.

Adjustable humidity

While excess moisture can be a problem it can lead to mold and other hazardous conditions having an area that’s too dry can also be an issue. Remember, humidity refers to the amount of water vapor in the air. Low humidity can lead to dry skin, coughing, and damage to wood and paint.

The Midea dehumidifier has an adjustable humidity feature, allowing you to set the humidity anywhere from 35 to 80 percent. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency says indoor humidity should be kept to 30 to 50 percent, though that number may change depending on what rooms your dehumidifier is in.

I kept mine at around 50 percent, which gave me the best relief from the humid weather without turning my house into the Sahara. I played with this feature and found the machine responsive to changes. I could see this being useful for collectors who need to keep rooms at a precise humidity level to protect their goods, whether comic books or anything else that can be ruined by moisture or dryness.

Large Tank Capacity

The Midea dehumidifiers’ water tank capacity depends on which size you buy. The smallest model holds up to 22 pints of water, while the largest holds up to 50. That’s an impressive amount of moisture that can easily be used to water plants, thanks to the convenient carrying handle on the reservoir.

I read multiple customer reviews stating the 50-pint tank was enough to hold a day’s moisture in some of the most humid climates, including New Orleans and southern Florida. Depending on the weather, I can go two to four days without emptying mine (outside Charlotte, NC).

Auto Shut-Off

Nothing is worse than waking up or returning from work and finding a large puddle under your dehumidifier. Luckily, the Midea dehumidifier has an auto shut-off function to prevent overfills. The dehumidifier makes a beeping noise that will wake you up if it goes off in the middle of the night, so it’s a good idea to empty it before you sleep if you live in a very humid area.

Wheels

The Midea dehumidifier weighs 33.5 pounds, so it’s not something you’d particularly want to carry from room to room. That’s why it comes with four high-quality caster wheels for easy portability.

The wheels move smoothly on most surfaces, though like any set of wheels, they don’t do well on carpet.

Continuous Use

My one big knock against the Midea dehumidifier is that it doesn’t come with a drainage hose despite having an optional continuous draining function. Drainage hoses don’t cost much, so I’m wondering why the company decided not to include them. Sure, it’s easy enough to go to Home Depot or Lowes and get one, but I’m a fan of getting everything in one place, and if Midea is going to give you the option, they should provide everything to take advantage of it.

It’s one reason I still haven’t tested the continuous drainage option on this dehumidifier (well, that and North Carolina never gets that humid). Customer reviews, however, say the continuous drain function works just fine if you use it as a basement dehumidifier or live in a highly humid area.

Their one complaint is that only one model comes with a pump (it works for spaces up to 4,500 square feet). Without the pump, you’ll have to drain into a floor drain or something close to the ground.

Noise Level

For a machine of its size, the Midea dehumidifier is pretty quiet. You can definitely hear it, but it sounds more like a white noise machine than a water vacuum (hey, that’s basically what it is).

The Midea is two feet tall and 16 inches wide, so it’s not the smallest or largest dehumidifier out there, but it’s still on the bigger side. Dehumidifiers get louder as they get larger, so I was expecting a noisier dehumidifier when I first pulled this thing out of the box.

Washable Filter

The Midea dehumidifier has a built-in filter that can be washed when needed. Most experts recommend cleaning your dehumidifiers every two to three weeks and replacing built-in filters annually. Midea, however, says their washable filter is meant to reduce the need for “expensive replacement parts,” so it seems like they’re claiming that there’s no need to replace the filter.

How We Tested It

As stated, I live outside Charlotte, NC, where it can feel humid from early April to October. Why do you think Charlotteans brag about being close to the beach and mountains? It’s because we’re trying to escape the humidity!

I’ve been using dehumidifiers since moving here in August 2022, and I’ve had the Midea dehumidifier in my girlfriend’s roughly 2,000-square-foot house since September 2023 (I’m writing this review in April 2024). During that time, I tested its performance in making the house feel more comfortable and used its many features, including the adjustable humidity settings and 24-hour timer. I also moved it from room to room, noted how loud it was and monitored its performance as the months went on.

Pros

• Energy efficient
• Adjustable humidity settings
• Quiet, especially for its size
• Comes with wheels for easy portability
• No assembly required
• Large tank capacity
• Optional continuous operation mode
• Connects to Midea Air app
• 24-hour timer
• Washable filter

Cons

• It’s still quite large despite being portable
• No drainage hose included

FAQ

What is the best setting for a Midea dehumidifier?

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency says indoor humidity should be 35 to 50 percent, so the best setting is the one that gets you in that range (you can monitor this with a hygrometer). For people in Florida or Louisiana, that might be on the Midea dehumidifier’s highest setting, whereas Northerners may need to put it on low.

What does the Smart button do on Midea dehumidifier?

The Smart button on Midea dehumidifiers measures the room’s humidity and adjusts the power setting to achieve the ideal humidity level, which is 35 to 50 percent. This feature isn’t available on all Midea models.

What Other Reviewers Had to Say

We’re not the only ones impressed with the Midea dehumidifier. As of this writing, it has a 4.3 average rating on Amazon and more than 9,500 five-star reviews.

“It has been running 24 hours a day, seven days a week for the past three years,” writes five-star Amazon reviewer R. Smith. “That is almost 26,000 running hours without any issues so far.”

Midea Dehumidifier vs. GE Dehumidifier

GE is a much bigger name in home electronics, but do they make a better dehumidifier than the Midea dehumidifier? Although I haven’t tested GE’s, I dare to say that the Midea is a better deal because the 50-pint option without the pump is about $60 cheaper than GE’s. The Midea dehumidifier with the pump is the same price as the GE without a pump, and the GE model with a pump is more than $300.

Hot take, but I think the price difference is mainly due to GE’s brand recognition. Let’s compare the Midea and GE dehumidifiers without the pump.

Both can cover up to 4,500 square feet of space, hold up to 50 pints of water, have a removable tank, an auto shut-off function, and wheels. Additionally, they’re almost the same size. The GE has two things that Midea doesn’t, the first being a smart function that adjusts the power settings to the room’s humidity level to optimize energy usage.

Do I think this is worth an extra $60? Not really. The Midea dehumidifier is Energy Star-certified, so we know it’s an energy-efficient appliance.

The second thing is that it comes with a drainage hose and (technically a third thing) the option to automatically or manually drain the tank. Do I think this is worth an extra $60? Again, not really, because the Midea also has a continuous drainage option, though you need to buy your own hose (Midea dehumidifier hoses cost anywhere from $12 to $20, depending on your model).

You may get a better deal on the GE dehumidifier during dehumidifier sales, though the Midea is also likely to be discounted during those times.

Final Verdict

Humidity not only feels bad, but it can be bad for our homes and lungs. The Midea dehumidifier is one of the highest-performing dehumidifiers I’ve used, and it’s the only thing that keeps the living room comfortable during the humid summer months. Its features separate it from similar models: adjustable humidity settings, smooth-rolling wheels, a surprisingly quiet noise level and a large 50-pint tank capacity.

If your house or apartment is 1,000 square feet or larger, I highly recommend buying this product before your living room starts feeling like a swamp.

Where to Buy the Midea Dehumidifier

VIA MERCHANT

$249 at Amazon

I Tried It

Midea Dehumidifier

A dehumidifier with a reusable air filter for basements and large rooms

$249 at Amazon

The Midea Energy Star-certified dehumidifier is available on Amazon in three sizes. It costs about $180 for a dehumidifier that covers up to 1,500 square feet, $220 for one that covers 3,000 square feet and $240 for one that covers up to 4,500 square feet. Those models don’t come with a pump, so if you want to use the continuous drainage function, you’ll have to put it near a floor drain or a container close to the ground. The model with a pump covers up to 4,500 square feet and costs about $270.

The post Midea Dehumidifier Review: A Game Changer in North Carolina Humidity appeared first on Family Handyman.

Luckily, I was tasked with testing the Frigidaire High Humidity 60-Pint Dehumidifier for our best basement dehumidifier piece. And boy did I test it.

Dehumidifiers, such as the Frigidaire High Humidity model, are designed to remove moisture from the surrounding airno more, no less. While their job is simple, some perform better than others in various situations. Months later, I’m still using the Frigidaireand it may be an excellent choice for your home and humidity-control needs.

What is the Frigidaire Dehumidifier?

You may or may not be familiar with precisely what a dehumidifier does. In general, a dehumidifier operates similarly to the principles of an air conditioner. However, where an air conditioner operates specifically to cool indoor air, a dehumidifier works to remove moisture from the air. While removing the moisture from humid air can have a cooling effect, a dehumidifier isn’t a cooling device like an air conditioner.

Why is it important to control humidity?

A document from the Minnesota Commerce Department answers a similar question this way, “High humidity in a home will cause the occupants to feel much warmer due to simple laws of physics. The higher the humidity in the air, the harder it is for sweat on our bodies to evaporate, which is how we cool ourselves in warm conditions. Even a cooler environment, with high humidity, will feel clammy and uncomfortablethink of a cool, damp basement. Additionally, high humidity coupled with warm temperatures contributes to the growth of mold and mildew, especially on cooler surfaces such as tile or foundation walls. Controlling humidity through proper sizing and use of air conditioning equipment, along with use of dehumidifiers, can reduce the impact of humidity on occupants and their homes.”

In essence, lowering indoor humidity helps our homes feel more comfortable and reduces the risk of moisture problems and damage. That’s where the Frigidaire High Humidity Dehumidifier comes into play.

Out of the Box

The Frigidaire machine earns high marks across multiple review platforms for doing just what it’s supposed to doremove water from humid indoor air. Upon receiving the test unit, I noted its durable-feeling construction and heft. In fact, the machine’s weight leads us to recommend maneuvering it up and down stairs only with a helper.

During and after testing, the machine continued to impress. Right out of the box, I took advantage of the unit’s six-and-a-half-foot electrical cord to reach one of just a few available basement outlets. The Frigidaire remains a fixture in my basement.

The Frigidaire High Humidity Dehumidifier features a 60-pint-per-day humidity control, customizable and easy-to-adjust moisture controls, the ability to easily add a continuous drain hose, and automatic shut-off and timing features designed to make the unit compatible with the moisture-control needs of almost any home.

However, the Frigidaire isn’t designed as a crawl space dehumidifier, as it doesn’t come equipped with an internal or external condensate pump to drain water without the assistance of gravity.

VIA MERCHANT

$299.95 at Amazon

$530 at Lowe's

Shop on Home Depot

We Tried It

Frigidaire 60-Pint 2-Speed Dehumidifier

Capture dust from the air effortlessly with a washable filter, custom humidity control and continuous drain

$299.95 at Amazon

$530 at Lowe's

Shop on Home Depot

Frigidaire Dehumidifier Features

The Frigidaire High Humidity Dehumidifier has several convenience features that allow the user to operate the machine as necessary to control moisture almost anywhere in their homes. We particularly appreciate the long, 78-inch power cord that makes placing the unit easy in basements where electrical outlets are few and far between. Other features include the following items.

• 2.64-gallon water reservoir
• Automatic full-reservoir off switch
• 24-hour timer function
• Digital display
• Programmable humidity settings from 35% to 85%
• Drain connection for continuous operation
• Two operating speeds
• Reservoir full and filter cleaning LED indicators

How We Tested It

I personally tested the Frigidaire High Humidity 60 Pint Dehumidifier in my basement, which partially doubles as a woodworking shop in my 100-year-old+ home. I was given the task of testing multiple dehumidifiers over several weeks.

The Frigidaire is the one I kept and continue to use in the same space. However, I’ve long since attached a garden hose to the machine to facilitate continuous draining due to the large amount of moisture that requires controlling in my basement.

My testing consisted of running each machine for several days, noting the average amount of water each removed, how many times the reservoir required dumping, the ease of setting up and operating each unit, filter cleaning frequency and simplicity, noise levels of operation, and how each device performed in general.

I found the Frigidaire to be the best of the several I tested. The unit wasn’t the quietest, and the amount of water it removed from my basement air was comparable to or only slightly better than the other comparable machines. However, this unit felt more durable all around, and its larger-than-average and sturdy water reservoir made it enjoyable to test.

Pros

• Powerful enough to help control humidity in old houses
• Features a 24-hour timer
• Drain hose connection features standard garden hose fitting
• Digital, easy-to-read display on top of the machine

Cons

• Relatively expensive compared to its competition
• The high-speed setting is louder than some models
• Lacks smart-home connectivity
• Not Energy-Star listed

FAQ

How do I use my Frigidaire dehumidifier?

The Frigidaire High Humidity 60 Pint dehumidifier offers three use options. Many owners choose the option they need based on the amount of humidity their home contends with. For minor or occasional use, the unit’s 24-hour timer allows precise control. More frequent use is manageable by relying on the automatic off switch that activates when the reservoir is full. For continuous use in high-humidity situations, install a drain hose to enable constant draining.

How long does a Frigidaire dehumidifier last?

Typically, consumers can expect a well-maintained dehumidifier to last between five and ten years. Keeping the filter clean, drain hose clear, and objects away from the unit to maximize airflow will all help ensure your dehumidifier lasts closer to the top end of the expected lifetime scale. The total lifespan of any appliance, such as a dehumidifier, will also depend on the frequency of its use.

Frigidaire Dehumidifier vs HomeLabs Energy Star Dehumidifier

Putting the HomeLabs Energy Star Dehumidifier up against Frigidaire High Humidity Dehumidifier isn’t really a fair comparison. While the HomeLabs unit also makes our list of the best dehumidifiers for basements, the two are quite dissimilar on many fronts.

The HomeLabs Energy Star Dehumidifier is designed more for use in smaller basements of 1,500 square feet or less. It’s capable of removing up to 22 pints of water per day and features a small, 0.08-gallon reservoir. In contrast, the Frigidaire unit removes more than twice the amount of moisture as the HomeLabs one and has a reservoir with a capacity of over 2.5 gallons.

Both the Frigidaire and the HomeLabs dehumidifiers are excellent performers with regard to their designs. The HomeLabs unit won our best budget category in our overall review, and it’s no wonder due to being roughly half the price of the Frigidaire.

In a head-to-head comparison, the Frigidaire outperforms the HomeLabs Energy Star dehumidifier. However, both are great options, depending on your home’s moisture-control needs.

Final Verdict

I loved the Frigidaire High Humidity Dehumidifier. However, not every purchaser agrees. Some reviews cite a short lifespan and mechanical breakdowns as the reasons they wouldn’t choose the model again.

However, with 64% of Amazon reviewers awarding the device a 5-star rating, the results of our rigorous testing, and my ongoing positive remarks, we recommend the Frigidaire for homeowners with medium to high humidity in their homes who don’t mind some ambient noise when the machine runs on high power.

Where to Buy the Frigidaire Dehumidifier

VIA MERCHANT

$299.95 at Amazon

$530 at Lowe's

Shop on Home Depot

We Tried It

Frigidaire 60-Pint 2-Speed Dehumidifier

This 60-pint dehumidifier is perfect or large spaces like living rooms and basements.

$299.95 at Amazon

$530 at Lowe's

Shop on Home Depot

The Frigidaire High Humidity 60-Pint Dehumidifier is available at Amazon, The Home Depot, Lowe’s, and Walmart. Regular retail prices range from around $430 to $500.

The post Review: I Tried the Frigidaire Dehumidifier to Control Humidity in My Basement appeared first on Family Handyman.

I purchased my first home in 2003, but its gas furnace looked like it was manufactured during the Carter administration. It cost a huge amount of money to operate and habitually switched itself off at inopportune times. We gave it a nickname, Clarice, because we had to visit so frequently to relight the pilot light.

Knowing what I know now, I could probably have squeezed a few more years of service from Clarice. Instead, we went ahead and replaced it. That’s when I started to get smart about furnaces.

Clarice was indeed an inefficient relic and should have been replaced sooner. Modern furnaces must hit an annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE) rate of 80 percent, and no repair could bring Clarice to those standards. These days, gas furnaces are even more efficient some close to 100 percent and they don’t fill the atmosphere with pollutants.

If you’re moving into your first home, say goodbye to the halcyon days of complaining to the landlord when your furnace doesn’t work. It’s worth taking the time to know your furnace better. That way you can give it the TLC it needs, and tell the difference between repairs you can do yourself and those that need professional attention.

What Is a Furnace?

A furnace is an appliance that generates heat usually enough to supply an entire building. It does this by burning a fuel or passing electricity through resistive heating elements.

A furnace isn’t the same as a heat pump, which transfers heat from outdoors into the building. If your central heat system doesn’t include an air conditioner, and it’s connected to an outdoor unit with a fan, you have a heat pump that requires different maintenance than a furnace.

How Does a Furnace Work?

A furnace works in conjunction with a room thermostat and an electronic control panel.

When the thermostat detects the room temperature has fallen below its preset minimum, it sends a signal to the control system to switch on the heat. A blower housed in a structure called the air handler also switches on and circulates warm air through the ductwork system.

Many homeowners find furnaces intimidating because of complicated control system. Furnaces contain safety sensors, switches and high-limit fuses that wear out or malfunction periodically. While homeowners can address some of these issues, diagnosis and repair are usually best left to a qualified technician.

Types of Furnaces

Virtually all modern furnaces are housed in rectangular metal boxes and classified by the type of fuel used. Most furnaces operate in conjunction with an air handler that connects to the supply and the return ducts. That’s where the blower is located. Air handlers may be separate from the furnace.

Electric

Electric furnaces feature a high-voltage heating element. The blower draws air into the heating element, then circulates it back through the ducts. Electric furnaces have no combustion chamber and don’t require a flue.

Standard-efficiency natural gas/propane

These require a combustion chamber and a flue. Heat created in the sealed combustion chamber is transferred to the blower through a thermally conductive plate called a heat exchanger. Combustion gases exhaust through the flue, which extends through the roof into the open air.

High-efficiency natural gas/propane

Also known as condensing furnaces, these have an AFUE greater than 90.

Instead of a flue, they utilize a secondary heat exchanger, basically a set of coils where combustion gases cool and condense. Condensation produces heat, which combines with the heat from the primary exchanger and circulates via the blower. The byproduct, known as condensate, is carried away by a PVC drain that extends through the wall.

Heating oil

Like standard efficiency gas furnaces, oil-burning furnaces also feature a combustion chamber, heat exchanger and exhaust flue. A fuel pump sprays oil into the combustion chamber. Oil-burning furnaces are popular in regions of the Northern U.S. and Canada where fuel oil may be cheaper than gas.

How Long Does a Furnace Last?

Electric furnaces tend to last longer that gas or oil furnaces (up to 20 years) because they contain fewer parts and no combustion chamber. A gas or oil furnace can last for 15 years. It isn’t unusual for homeowners to keep their furnaces longer than that, but performance usually suffers.

How to Maintain a Furnace

The top maintenance task for homeowners with a furnace is replacing the air filters regularly. There’s one in the air handler and usually one in the main return register in the house. This should be done every three months of continuous operation to maintain furnace performance and keep the indoor air free of contaminants.

Other important maintenance tasks include:

• Clean the blower: At least once a year, turn the furnace off, let it cool, open the air handler and brush dust off the blower fins and the motor. If you notice squeaking or grinding sounds when the blower is running, spray some lubricant along the axis where the fins rotate.
• Dust off the heat exchanger: Dust inhibits heat flow. Wipe it off with a dry rag.
• Inspect the ducts: Look for holes, tears or gaps in the ductwork and patch them with aluminum foil tape (not duct tape).

If you own a gas furnace, do these additional tasks:

• Check the ignition system and flame condition: Remove the front cover and have someone turn on the furnace while you watch to make sure the ignition system is working properly. All the flames should be blue. If any are orange or yellow, or they sputter, the burners need to be professionally cleaned.
• Clean the flame sensor: Once a year, remove the flame sensor following the instructions in your owner’s manual, and clean it with sandpaper. Over time, it tends to be covered in soot that it can’t detect a flame and shuts down the furnace.

Furnace Troubleshooting

Furnace malfunctions usually mean something is wrong with the control circuitry or the thermostat settings. Always check the thermostat before assuming anything else is wrong.

It’s also important to check the circuit breaker that controls the furnace to make sure it hasn’t tripped. If your gas furnace shuts down frequently, try cleaning the flame sensor. Other problems are best left to pros for diagnosis and repair.

Note: If you smell gas in the furnace room, turn off the furnace and call an HVAC technician immediately.

How Much Does It Cost to Replace a Furnace?

Depending on the type of furnace, it can run from $3,000 to $7,600, including labor and permits. Electric furnaces are easiest to replace and cost the least, while high-efficiency gas furnaces cost the most.

Furnace Alternatives

A heat pump is a viable alternative to a furnace in many parts of North America except for those with extremely cold temperatures. Contemporary models can heat a home when the outdoor temperature is minus-10 degrees. Beginning in 2023, the federal government will offer incentives for homeowners looking to install a new one.

A wood stove or pellet stove can efficiently heat a home with an open floor plan. A hydronic heat system with a central boiler and radiators, baseboard heaters or in-floor pipes spread throughout the house is an increasingly popular heating option.

Furnace FAQs: Common Questions and Parts Explained

Whether you’re trying to understand how your furnace works or troubleshooting issues, here are the answers to some of the most common furnace questions.

• How Does a Gas Furnace Work?
• What Are Furnace Energy Efficiency Ratings?
• Understanding the Different Parts of a Furnace
• What That Furnace Switch Is For
• What Is a Furnace Heat Exchanger?
• What Is a Furnace Inducer Motor?
• What Does a Furnace Pressure Switch Do?
• How Much Will It Cost to Replace a Furnace Blower Motor?
• Boilers vs. Furnaces: What’s the Difference?
• How to Choose Between a Heat Pump vs. a Furnace

The post A Homeowner’s Guide to Furnaces appeared first on Family Handyman.

Solar air conditioners offer a straightforward solution to this dilemma.

Where I live on the coast of Central California, heat is seldom as oppressive as in Southern California, Arizona, Texas or the Southeast. Seldom doesn’t mean never, though. So as part of the solar upgrade to our off-grid property, we’re looking closely at air conditioning options.

We’re leaning heavily in favor of a heat pump system, because it cools as well as heats, and our solar array should handle it quite nicely. But it turns out there are other ways we could go.

One example: Australia’s Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organization (CSIRO) is developing a rooftop system that uses the sun’s energy to heat water, which vaporizes and passes through a spinning desiccant wheel to dry out. It then goes through an evaporative cooler and finally into a duct system to cool the house.

The system provides hot water and cool air for the house while using only enough electricity to spin the desiccant wheel and circulation fans. It isn’t a realistic option for us, but it might be for other homeowners.

How Does a Solar-Powered Air Conditioner Work?

The most common solar air conditioner design uses photovoltaic (PV) panels to power the compressor and fan. The compressor may connect to indoor evaporative units (think mini-splits) or circulate cool air through a duct system. It draws all its power from the panels, although hybrid units are available that can also use grid power.

In places where grid power isn’t available, a battery can be added allow the air conditioner to operate at night.

Another type, called a solar thermal air conditioner, uses water heated by the sun to drive the refrigerant. Like a compressor, the hot water condenses a refrigerant and drives it into evaporator coils, vaporizing it and absorbing heat from the house.

This type of unit needs some electricity to operate circulation fans, but not as much as a conventional air conditioner, and it works with smaller panels.

Types of Solar-Powered Air Conditioners

PV-powered air conditioners come in three types: DC current, AC current, and hybrids that can run on both types of power.

• DC units: Solar panels output DC power. So if the air conditioner fan and compressor have DC motors, they can use that power directly. Such units typically operate at 12, 24 or 48 volts.
• AC units: These utilize the 120-volt AC signal from the power grid. They can operate directly from a solar panel, but the panel signal has to first pass through an inverter, which reduces efficiency.
• Hybrid units: These use DC and AC signals. They can draw directly from the panels when the sun is out, and from the power grid when it’s not.

Mini-split systems are quite common. They feature an outdoor compressor unit and one or more indoor units containing evaporative coils and a circulation fan. The panels are usually mounted near the compressor. Wires bundled with the refrigeration tubing carry electricity to the indoor units.

Window-mount units are also available. They usually come with a panel array that mounts on the roof or the side of the house.

Solar-Powered Air Conditioner Pros and Cons

Solar air conditioning offers a solution to the nagging problem of power grid overload during hot weather, but only if enough homeowners go for it.

To make the decision easier, the federal government offers a 30 percent solar tax credit towards the purchase and installation of new solar equipment. That’s a big incentive. Here are others:

Pros

• You’ll stay cool even if there’s a grid overload and a blackout.
• You can tie your air conditioner into your existing PV system and save on materials costs.
• You’ll save money on your energy bill.
• Your air conditioning system works best when you need it most when the sun is out.

The main drawback? It won’t work if there isn’t enough sun. That’s a problem for people on shaded properties or in the wrong climate zone. Other drawbacks include:

Cons

• Your air conditioner won’t work at night unless it’s tied to the grid or you purchase a battery pack.
• Solar air conditioners cost more than conventional ones. The average cost to purchase and install one is around $3,400, though tax incentives reduce that by 30 percent.
• Your air conditioner might not work during prolonged period of cloudy or rainy weather, even if you have a battery pack.
• Solar panels don’t last forever. Their average life expectancy is around 30 years, but that can be shortened by severe weather or salty, corrosive air.

What’s the Bottom Line?

If your property gets enough sun, a solar air conditioner is a wise investment that will reduce your energy bill and probably increase your property value as well. You’ll also be doing your part to keep the electric grid up and running.

The post Should You Invest in a Solar-Powered Air Conditioner? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Best Overall Crawl Space Dehumidifier

Alorair Storm LGR Extreme Dehumidifier

While it may not be necessary for a crawl space dehumidifier to look good, the Alorair Storm LGR Extreme does just that with its four available color options (yellow, blue, green and red). However, that’s not what makes it an excellent choice for protecting your crawl space. A wide operating temperature range from 33.8 to 104 degrees Fahrenheit, a nearly 20-foot power cord, low grain refrigerant (LGR) technology, the ability to remove up to 180 pints per day (PPD) of water and convenient memory restarting are a few qualities that do, though.

LGR is a method of cooling air more efficiently to help remove more water. The technology allows effective operation over a wider temperature range than non-LGR machines. Low-operating temps mean you can set the Storm LGR Extreme and forget it. The unit also features a Merv 8 filter, which traps most airborne particles larger than 3.0 microns (or roughly the size of the smallest mold spores).

Pros

• Condensate pump incorporated into the design
• LGR technology for increased efficiency
• 19.6-foot long power cord
• Powerful enough for restorations
• Includes five-year warranty

Cons

• No venting duct attachment points
• Effective operating range only reaches 80% humidity

$799.11 at Amazon

The post Best Crawl Space Dehumidifiers for Drier, Healthier Small & Large Spaces appeared first on Family Handyman.

If you’re considering getting a ceiling fan to help your air conditioner when you’re home, or just keep the air moving when you’re out, here’s what you need to know about ceiling fans and electricity use.

Do Ceiling Fans Use a Lot of Electricity?

No, but it helps to put numbers in context.

Does a ceiling fan use more energy than a phone charger? Sure, but let’s compare it to something relevant. A ceiling fan uses considerably less power than other whole-room cooling appliances, including air conditioners, box fans and tower fans.

Below, we’ll break down the numbers and provide comparisons to other appliances.

How To Calculate Electricity Costs

First, let’s get up to speed on how to calculate electricity use.

Appliances like ceiling fans have a rating in watts (W) that tells you how much power they consume. Wattage will be different on high, medium and low speed, but most fans list the wattage at high speed so we’ll use that for these examples. Ceiling fans have the watts listed on the fan, or in the manual or online description.

Next, we need to know the price the utility charges per kilowatt-hour (kWh). Find this on your electric bill, or use the national, regional or local averages compiled by the U.S. government. (The July 2023 U.S. national average was $0.169 per kWh.) Finally, estimate how many hours a day the fan runs. For this example, we’ll say eight hours.

Here’s how to covert this info into electricity use and cost. Take the popular, relatively inexpensive Harbor Breeze ceiling fan sold at Lowe’s, which has a high-speed wattage of 38W. Multiply the watts by the daily usage (38 watts x 8 hours = 304 watts/day).

Divide this number by 1,000 to convert to kilowatts (304 W / 1,000 = 0.304 kW), then multiply that by the electricity rate (0.304 kW x $0.169 = $0.05). So this particular fan, running eight hours daily at high speed, costs about a nickel per day. For an entire year, that’s $18.77.

Ceiling Fan Costs vs. Other Appliances

Less than 20 bucks a year sounds pretty affordable, but what about other appliances? How do they compare to ceiling fans? Do higher efficiency fans exist, and how much do they cost to run? Let’s take a look.

High-efficiency ceiling fan

Energy Star, the U.S. government program that evaluates and promotes energy efficient appliances, compiles a list of the most efficient ceiling fans.

At the top sits the Aeratron, which on high speed only uses 16.2 watts, less than half of the 38 watts on the Harbor Breeze example above. Plugging this wattage into the formula tells us this high-efficiency fan only costs $8 per year.

Of course, the initial cost of buying this fan is much higher ($500 vs. $60), so keep that in mind.

Tower fan

Sleek, unobtrusive tower fans are attractive and portable, and often come with remote controls and multiple cooling settings. Lasko is a popular brand, and this highly-rated model uses 48 watts. That works out to $0.065 per day and about $24 per year. Other models and brands may use less or more energy.

Box fan

These inexpensive air movers pack a serious punch. You can pick one up for $25 to $50, and nothing beats them for removing stale air from a stuffy room.

Box fans vary widely in the watts they consume, depending on the brand and the speed setting. This Genesis model consumes 60 watts ($30/year), while this Lasko clocks in at 110 watts ($54/year). Higher watts usually mean more air movement.

Window air conditioner

Even the most efficient air conditioners cost more to run than a ceiling fan.

This GE window air conditioner uses 482.5 kWh/year based on 750 hours of use, which comes to $81.50. This is Energy Star’s most efficient window air conditioner, so older or less efficient models will cost more.

Ceiling fans may be cheaper to run. But in really hot temps, air conditioners keep you more comfortable.

Which Way Should a Ceiling Fan Turn In the Summer?

@diy.your.house Beat the summer heat and keep cool. Reverse the direction of your ceiling fan seasonally. SUMMER = the blades should rotate counterclockwise to create a cooling breeze. WINTER = the blades should rotate clockwise to help circulate warm air throughout the room. Follow for: Home Maintenance Tips Easy DIY Projects Garden Tips Save to your favorites (I have a category called “Home”) and share with a friend. #CeilingFanLove #StayCool #FanMaintenance #SummerTips #BreezyLiving #diy #doityourself #diyproject #easyfix #homemaintenance #weekendproject #howto #diyyourhouse #diyyourhome #firsttimehomebuyer #homeowner #diyhomeimprovement #diyproject #homeimprovement #diyhomerenovation #diyhomemaintenance #homeinspection original sound – DIY Your House – Home Tips

Counterclockwise, because it creates a downdraft of cool air. Summer bonus: Using a ceiling fan allows you to set your thermostat four degrees higher without noticing any change in your comfort level, according to Energy.gov.

In the winter, switch to clockwise to move warm air from your ceiling downward. Look for the directional switch on your fan, or it may have a remote control or pull chain, depending on your fan.

How To Balance a Ceiling Fan

Wobbly ceiling fans are annoying, and even dangerous if the wobble comes from the hardware holding the fan to the ceiling. To balance a wobbly ceiling fan, try these steps:

• Check that the fan was installed correctly. Make sure it’s seated to the ceiling box, and that any screws holding the fan together are tight.
• Clean the fan if it’s dirty.
• Measure the distance from the ceiling to the tip of each blade. If they’re different, adjust the blades by gently bending into alignment.
• If the fan still wobbles, try a ceiling fan balance kit.

The post Do Ceiling Fans Use a Lot of Electricity? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Wondering if a gas heater is right for you? Our digital editor, Ethan ODonnell, says, I have found that gas heaters are more efficient at heating up a cold space, are less expensive to operate and require less maintenance and repair than electric garage heaters.

What is a Mr. Heater garage heater?

The Mr. Heater garage heater is a powerful 50,000-British thermal unit (BTU) natural gas heater, which includes an liquified petroleum (LP) gas conversion kit. It has an impressive 82% thermal efficiency rating, and it’s designed to heat a 1,250- to 1,667-square-foot space. In other words, the Big Maxx (model#MHU50NG) will easily heat your three-car garage. The unit is 15 inches deep by 29 inches wide by 26 inches tall, with a black finish and three adjustable air louvers.

If the 50,000-BTU unit isnt right for your space, the Mr. Heater Big Maxx series is also available in 80,000 BTU and 125,000 BTU models. All three models have LP conversion kits, spark ignition, high-velocity fans and aluminized tubular heat exchangers included.

Before deciding on the size you need, ODonnell offers a tip. You should assess the level of insulation in your garage. If your garage will lose a substantial amount of heat through its ceiling, walls and garage door, it somewhat defeats the purpose of heating it and, therefore, requires a much larger heater,” he says.

Mr. Heater offers a three-year warranty on parts and burners, and a 10-year warranty on the heat exchanger.

Pros

• 50,000 BTUs
• 120-volt power source
• High-velocity fan
• Affordable
• 82% operating efficiency
• Horizontal or vertical venting
• Includes an LP conversion kit
• Includes a ceiling mount
• Compatible with digital and smart thermostats
• Three-year warranty on parts and burner
• 10-year warranty on heat exchanger

Cons

• Some buyers reported receiving dented units

VIA MERCHANT

$380.24 at Amazon

$544.88 at Walmart

$382.49 at Home Depot

$619.99 at Tractor Supply

Product Spotlight

Mr. Heater Big Maxx Garage Heater

Grab this 50,000-BTU garage heater for your shop, barn or warehouse. Add a smart thermostat and control the heat from anywhere.

$380.24 at Amazon

$544.88 at Walmart

$382.49 at Home Depot

$619.99 at Tractor Supply

How to Install and Use a Mr. Heater Garage Heater

Once the unit is installed, operation is as easy as adjusting the thermostat. Users have reported that set-up is relatively simple because the connectors are located on the outside of the unit.

If you love the idea of a warm garage and plan to install a garage heater, ODonnell offers some advice. Though it is possible to DIY, gas garage heaters are difficult to install due to venting and plumbing requirements,” he explains. “A professional will know all the building codes, permits and regulations applicable to different types of garage heating systems. Professionals will also test the heater for functionality and provide optimal operational instructions, ensuring that the garage is heated safely and efficiently as the system is used.

The Mr. Heater Big Maxx is designed to be mounted from the ceiling and includes two angle brackets. To add to its versatility, the exhaust can be vented vertically or horizontally. If youre tight on space, this gas-forced air heater only needs 1-inch of clearance from the ceiling and requires a standard 120-volt power outlet. However, be aware that it needs to have at least 8 feet of clearance from the floor to the base of the unit. Another thing to consider is that the venting is not included with the unit, since venting will need to be customized depending on the space and building codes. Again, we recommend calling in a professional when it comes to installation.

Once the unit is installed, pair it with a smart thermostat or simply choose the bundle with the analog thermostat included. Easy as pie!

The Best Amazon User Reviews

The Mr. Heater garage heater has plenty of happy, warm users. Here’s what they’re saying:

This was a great purchase for the money. Works good. Operates quietly. As a professional HVAC service tech, this is as good as major name brand products,” says Derek, a five-star reviewer.

Verified purchaser, Joe Peacock, writes, Well worth my money. This unit heater fits my needs quite well. It is well built and works great. It is a bit heavy to install by one person, but a strong back and careful planning can get it done safely. The venting and fuel supply is well placed. The instructions are easy to read and follow. I converted this unit to LP gas with the included kit and have it supplied with a 500 gallon LP tank outside my wood shop. The initial start-up went flawlessly. It worked exactly as the instructions stated.

I love having a heated three-car garage, and this heater is just the right size,” writes G. Preston, another verified buyer. “The packaged thermostat is a plus, although it is old-fashioned analog instead of digital. For a few more bucks a digital option would have been nice. The heater itself is reasonably quiet and very efficient. Installation is standard and requires a full day or a professional installer. At this price point, you won’t find a better heater.

FAQ

What size Mr. Heater do I need for my garage?

To give you a rough idea of the best BTU output needed for your garage, grab your laser tape measuring tool to calculate the cubic feet of the space.

• First, multiply the length and width of the garage to calculate the square footage. Then, measure the ceiling height and multiply it by the square footage number to determine the total cubic feet.
• Next, calculate the temperature rise by subtracting the coldest average low winter temperature in your region from the temperature youd like to keep in the garage. For instance, if you want to keep the temperature at 70 degrees Fahrenheit and the average low temperature is 10 degrees Fahrenheit, your temperature rise rate is 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Finally, to calculate the BTUs needed to heat a garage, multiply the cubic feet by 0.133. Multiply that number by the temperature rise.

However, this is where you need to consider how well your space is insulated and adjust accordingly. An HVAC professional can better advise you on sizing, building code regulations and venting requirements.

Does Mr. Heater need to be vented?

Yes, since the Mr. Heater garage heater is a natural gas and LP-burning heater, venting is necessary to avoid deadly fumes and gasses, like carbon monoxide, from being released into the space. So make sure the placement is convenient to an outside wall (or ceiling, if local code allows) that can accommodate proper venting.

Product Comparison

The 50,000 BTU Big Maxx gas heater is currently priced at around $430, compared to the popular Hot Dawg 45,000-BTU heater by Modine which is around $1,000. Both units are low-profile, ceiling-mounted units and require outside venting. The Hot Dawg doesn’t include an LP conversion kit, but one can be bought separately. Modine offers a 10-year manufacturer’s warranty on the Hot Dawg, similar to the 10-year heat exchanger warranty and three-year warranty on parts and burner like the Mr. Heater Big Maxx.

Where to Buy a Mr. Heater Garage Heater

VIA MERCHANT

$380.24 at Amazon

$544.88 at Walmart

$382.49 at Home Depot

$619.99 at Tractor Supply

Product Spotlight

Mr. Heater Big Maxx Garage Heater

Enjoy trouble-free warmth with a three-year warranty on parts and burners, and 10-year warranty on the heat exchanger.

$380.24 at Amazon

$544.88 at Walmart

$382.49 at Home Depot

$619.99 at Tractor Supply

Don’t let the cold keep you out of your garage. Once you grab the Mr. Heater garage heater you’ll wish you would have made the decision long ago. You can snag this life-changing workshop addition on Amazon, Walmart, The Home Depot, Tractor Supply Co. and Farm & Fleet.

The post The Mr. Heater Garage Heater Allows You to Use Your Workshop All Year Long appeared first on Family Handyman.

In our race to cut our greenhouse gas emissions, it’s a dinosaur. Today’s more efficient technology means our future depends on going electric.

“The only eco-friendly heating system is an electric heat pump system,” says Panama Bartholomy, executive director of the Building Decarbonization Coalition. “The good news is, there are many types of them.

“If you have a ducted system, you can use a standard heat pump or a ducted mini-split. If you don’t have any ducts and are looking to replace something like a wall heater or baseboard heaters, you could use a ductless mini-split system. There are even companies that make heat pumps that go in your window.”

Electricity-driven heating is today’s gold standard. Before the HVAC systems we install today reach the end of their lifespans, it’s possible the grid will be heavily if not entirely powered by carbon-free energy sources.

Non-fuel burning devices also reduce health-damaging air pollution in our homes and usually deliver big on energy savings. They’re up to to five times more efficient than furnaces.

Here are some eco-friendly heating system options. And don’t forget the cost can be partly covered by tax credits and rebates included in the new Inflation Reduction Act (IRA) .

Air-Source Heat Pumps

These are essentially air conditioners that run in reverse, with outside air providing heating and cooling to your home. They come in several configurations:

• Packaged, as in window and portable stand-alone units;
• Ductless and ducted mini-splits;
• Ducted central heat pumps.

Window units and mini-splits offer DIY installation and usually cost well under $1,000. Full HVAC systems can run between $3,000 and $18,000. Cost depends on whether you need electrical and ductwork upgrades; home size and required heating capacity; climate in your location; and what you’re replacing. These systems typically last around 14 years.

If you’re thinking about going with an air-sourced heat pump, also keep in mind:

• The best systems offer a heating seasonal performance factor (HSPF) of 10.5, a seasonal energy efficiency rating (SEER) of 20 or higher and a coefficient of performance (COP) of 3 or better.
• If you live where it’s cold in the winter, make sure the installer installing is familiar with the NEEP cold-climate air source heat pump list. Ask for one that works well down to minus-5 degrees or lower.
• If you’re in the market for an air conditioner, don’t buy a standalone. “Instead, buy a heat pump version that can provide cooling and heat,” says Sara Baldwin, director of electrification policy at Energy Innovation. “It’s a far more efficient and cost-effective option and can facilitate the transition away from fossil fuels more quickly.”
• To bring down costs, the IRA provides a $2,000 tax credit for heat pumps and additional incentives for electrical upgrades. Low-to-moderate income households can also benefit from new rebates, administered through state energy offices.

Psst! While we’re on the subject, take a look inside Family Handyman’s Sustainable Studio.

Ground-Source (Geothermal) Heat Pumps

These systems rely on the relatively constant temperature of the earth as an exchange medium. They’re highly efficient for heating and cooling, offering a 25 to 50 percent cost savings over conventional fossil fuel systems. But they require land to accommodate the pipes, which must be buried.

Ground-source heat pumps range from $3,000 to $30,000, depending on the climate, soil conditions, available land, local installation costs, the size of your home and heating and cooling needs. They’re also durable. Inside components last around 24 years, and the ground loop more than 50.

The IRA provides a 30 percent credit for geothermal heat pump projects, with potentially more incentives available from state energy offices.

Radiant Heating Systems

In-floor radiant heating systems aren’t as efficient as heat pump, and can’t double as a cooling system. But they can still provide energy savings with all the added benefits of ditching fossil fuels, provided you heat your water with electricity and and not gas.

“Radiant floors may make sense for home additions that don’t easily or affordably allow for extending the heating system into the new space, or when redoing your floors,” says Baldwin. “By avoiding forced air circulation and the use of ducts, they can also help eliminate allergens and dust.”

If you’re leaning toward a radiant floor system, know there are different electric heating cables or hydronic (liquid) systems, depending on what type of floor you have. Flooring materials with more thermal mass can help retain heat longer, thus saving energy.

Radiant floor heating costs range from $8 to $20 per square foot. It pairs well with distributed solar and energy storage, also covered under IRA incentives.

Other Eco-Heating Advice

If you’re hiring a contractor, get two or three bids. Make sure they know how to properly size a heat pump based on a manual J load calculation, which accounts for factors like your home’s size, climate zone, quality of insulation and windows.

Investments in air sealing and insulation, programmable thermostats and proper equipment maintenance can also reduce the size of the unit you need and make your home more comfortable.

“There is no such thing as an eco-friendly home that has lots of air holes or doesn’t have insulation,” says Bartholomy. “Weatherization is an imperative part of having an eco-friendly home.” Reduce waste even more by opting for sustainable furniture.

The post 3 Eco-Friendly Heating Systems for Your Home in 2024 appeared first on Family Handyman.

That’s often a penny-wise but dollar-foolish decision for two reasons. Homeowners end up paying more for repairs in the long run than a replacement would cost, and also waste money on inefficient heating and cooling.

Tim David, the CEO of Airlucent.com and an HVAC pro with more than 25 years of experience, says upgraded energy efficiency requirements from the Department of Energy are making new HVAC systems more expensive. “Consumers … should expect slightly higher costs for equipment, but better efficiency on their energy bills,” he says.

Still, HVAC system replacement is often more cost-effective than repairing an outdated system. It’s like spending thousands keeping your 20-year-old clunker on the road versus buying a modern, fuel-efficient vehicle.

According to HomeAdvisor, the national average cost for installing a new HVAC system is around $7,000, but that depends on several factors. Here are some tips to determine your costs for a new HVAC system.

Factors That Determine the Cost of HVAC System Replacement

The cost of HVAC replacement depends on where you live and the nature of the system (furnace vs. heat pump). It could range from $3,000 to $10,000. David says it costs about $3,000 to install a new electric furnace, and $5,000 to $8,000 to install a new heat pump.

“With the subsidies now in place for upgrading your home to be more energy efficient, you can claim up to $2,000 as a write-off,” says David. “And if you upgrade your insulation/windows, that could be another $1,200.”

It should be noted the $2,000 subsidy applies only to heat pumps. It’s part of the federal government’s move toward electric home heating methods.

If you already have a gas furnace and it makes sense to continue using gas, replacing your furnace will range from $3,800 to $10,000, or slightly higher if you opt for a high-efficiency model. If you heat your home with oil, furnace replacement will run between $6,750 and $10,000. These costs are determined by:

• The brand of equipment;
• The size of your home’
• Your climate zone;
• The local cost of labor.

Signs That It’s Time for a New HVAC System

David says it’s time for replacement when your system is at least 15 years old, and you have to call out an HVAC tech at least once a year for three consecutive years.

Both conditions indicate the system is functioning at a lower efficiency it should, wasting energy and money. David also notes if a single repair approaches 50% of the cost of a new system, you should just replace it.

“Most likely, something major is going on,” says David. “And if you don’t replace the whole thing, then you could be adding unnecessary stress to other older parts that don’t get replaced.”

DIY vs. Hiring Pros

It’s technically possible for a homeowner to DIY an HVAC installation, but David doesn’t recommend it. “HVAC systems are complex, require permits and specialized tools, and involve safety hazards,” he says. “Improper installation can result in poor performance, higher energy bills, and safety hazards for homeowners and their families.”

Another problem with DIY installation: It may void the product warranty. Most HVAC parts manufacturers require installation by licensed HVAC contractors for the warranty to be valid.

“Even if you have the necessary skills, although you will be able to save on labor costs, DIY installation can result in unforeseen additional costs due to mistakes, safety hazards, and the need to hire a professional to fix any issues that arise,” says David.

Questions To Ask HVAC Contractors

With government subsidies for HVAC upgrades now in effect, an HVAC contractor is the best person to advise you on how to take advantage of them. You can ask questions like:

• Is my home a good candidate for a heat pump?
• I want to continue using gas. Is it worth it to upgrade to a high-efficiency furnace?
• Will it make any difference to my comfort level and energy bill if I spend more money for a system with a higher efficiency rating than the minimum required?
• Will this HVAC replacement involve any changes to other components of the system, including the air handler and ductwork?

Of course, before hiring any contractor, always verify licensing and how long they’ve been in business. To avoid overcharging or substandard service, it’s also a good idea to check references and reviews on social media.

The post New HVAC System Cost: How Much Is It? appeared first on Family Handyman.

The ecologically minded will appreciate knowing the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) considers pellet stoves the cleanest of all solid fuel residential heating appliances. The fuel is mostly derived from recycled wood, and it produces few air pollutants.

Other factors, like the ability to control their heat output, and the fact that a mid-size model can easily heat a decently-sized home make pellet stoves home-heating champs. One thing to note, though, is that you’ll need a lot of pellets to keep your home warm throughout the winter.

What Is a Pellet Stove?

Pellet stoves aren’t the same as pellet grills used for cooking; these are specifically for heating.

As the name implies, a pellet stove produces heat by burning pellets, i.e. solid combustible tablets from 1/4- to 1-1/2-in. long. The most common pellets are made from compressed sawdust and other wood waste, but some are derived from biofuels like nutshells and corn kernels.

Not all models burn every kind of pellet. If you want to burn biofuels, you’ll need a model specifically for that.

Most pellet stoves are rectangular boxes with a centrally located combustion chamber and a fan that circulates hot air into the room. The housing includes a hopper for loading pellets and a vent to exhaust combustion gases. Most units are self-lighting and include a thermostat. All the user has to do is load the pellets, set the temperature, sit back and enjoy the heat.

Depending on its size, a pellet stove can produce 8,000 to 90,000 British thermal units (BTUs) of heat per hour. Roughly 40,000 and 60,000 BTUs per hour are needed to heat a 2,000-square-foot home. The stove doesn’t need to be plugged in, and the power to operate the fan and pellet feeder amounts to about 100 kilowatt-hours (kWh) per month. That costs about $9 at the current national rate for electricity, according to the EPA.

How Does a Pellet Stove Work?

Most pellet stoves feature a screw feed system. Pellets stored in the hopper travel to the combustion chamber via a large threaded shaft. The turning speed of the shaft determines the heat output, which can all be controlled by the thermostat. This system ensures the continuous feed of pellets into the combustion chamber to feed the flame.

Except for the pellet inlet, the combustion chamber is sealed and often comes with a glass cover that lets you see the flame. The sides of the chamber function like heat exchangers, transferring heat to the blower chamber, where it circulates through grilles in the front of the housing and into the room.

Burn efficiency ranges from 70 to 83 percent, so few combustion by-products remain.

Does a Pellet Stove Need a Chimney?

No. Pellet stoves can be direct-vented through a wall like a gas stove. If you’re installing a pellet stove in an existing fireplace, vent it through the chimney if that’s more convenient.

Pellet Stove Pros and Cons

Pros

A pellet stove costs from $900 to $6,000. That’s not exactly cheap, but there’s a model for most budgets. One ton of wood pellets (equivalent to fifty 40-pound bags) costs about $250 and lasts a little less than two months. That’s economical for a heating fuel.

• Controlled heat: The thermostat controls the speed of the feeder, which in turn controls the size of the flame and the heat output.
• Eco-friendly: A pellet stove burns environmentally-friendly fuel efficiently, releasing few pollutants. Pellets are made from recycled wood or abundant natural materials. Here’s what you need to know about eco-friendly heating systems.
• Safe and easy to use: Once you add pellets and set the thermostat, a pellet stove operates autonomously. It needs no more attention until it runs out of pellets. Combustion is efficient, so creosote doesn’t build up and rarely (if ever) needs to be removed. And because the combustion chamber is sealed, there’s no danger from sparks or flames.
• Can be placed anywhere: You can install a pellet stove anywhere close to an exterior wall for the vent, even in an apartment.

Cons

Pellet stoves do have some significant drawbacks.

• Can be noisy: This is less likely to be a problem with a top-quality model than with a less expensive one.
• Pellets are heavy and need to be kept dry: A pellet stove typically goes through a 40-pound bag of pellets per day, and loading the pellets can be difficult for the elderly or disabled. You also need a cool, dry place to store the pellets, and pellet availability can sometimes be limited.
• Uses electricity: Add electric usage to the monthly operating cost.
• Plastic bags: If you don’t buy pellets in bulk, you’ll throw out approximately one plastic bag a day.

How to Install a Pellet Stove

Start by setting it on a fireproof hearth you can buy or make yourself, following the manufacturer’s recommendations and local fire codes. Then install the vent. This can be a short length of duct extending straight through a pre-cut hole in the wall, or an assembly that extends vertically to a more suitable exit location. The vent terminates with a cap attached to the siding.

After vent installation is complete, plug in the unit, load pellets and enjoy the heat.

The post What To Know About Pellet Stoves For Home Heating appeared first on Family Handyman.

Why You Shouldn’t Crank Down Your Thermostat

There are a few main reasons why you should never crank down your thermostat to cool your home. The first, according to Jennifer Amann, senior fellow in the buildings program at the nonprofit, American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy is that, “It’s not going to really cool your home any faster.” Shichao Liu, an architectural engineering professor at Worcester Polytechnic Institute in Massachusetts, underscores this point, explaining: “People think, ‘If I make the thermostat set point 60, I’ll get more cooling than a set point at 70,’ but that’s not correct. You get the same amount of the cooling.”

Additionally, every air conditioning system has a certain cooling capacity. If you set your thermostat to a temperature that exceeds that capacity, your system will just keep running trying to meet it. This puts unnecessary strain on your air conditioning system, which will shorten its lifespan.

Lastly, the continuous running of the air conditioner guzzles energy. This hurts the planet and can lead your cooling efforts to backfire. When everyone runs their air conditioners continuously, the power grid can fail, and then you may not be able to use your air conditioner at all.

How to Properly Set a Thermostat

When setting a thermostat, gradual changes make a huge difference. Start by checking your thermostat’s cooling capacity by calling the manufacturer or your landlord. If you can find this number, never drop the temperature lower than it. If you can’t locate the capacity, try to stick to temperatures between 71 and 77 degrees. One 2014 study by the University of Georgia, Athens, found that most people report feeling comfortable at these temperatures.

If you can manage it, try to stick to the upper margin of that range. Co-author of the study and professor of practice emeritus Thomas Lawrence said, “If a person was in their house and they’re going to be there all the time, they could maybe turn up to 76 or 77 or so.” He then added, “People should realize that if it’s really hot outside, having [the thermostat] at 77, 78, or even more, on the inside for a little while still feels good.”

Setting your thermostat slightly higher than you would think to can make a huge difference in supporting our power grids, Amann notes. She encourages those who are away from home to set their thermostat 5 or 10 degrees higher than they would if they were home. One degree of a thermostat increase can save approximately 1% of energy. As such, Amann says, “If everyone who is away from home has set their thermostat so that they’re saving at least 5% of their cooling, then across all of the houses that can really make a difference in addressing that peak load.”

Lastly, be aware of peak energy consumption hours. When it’s hottest outside during the afternoon, most people are cranking their air conditioners. As such, this is when the power grid is most strained, so increasing your thermostat by even 1 degree can make an impact.

More Energy Efficiency Tips

First, to get the best cooling out of your air conditioner and save energy, make sure you perform the proper maintenance on your unit. Additionally, if you are having problems with your air conditioner, be sure to check these simple fixes. If none of those work,there are numerous repairs you can perform yourself.

Finally, there are plenty of ways to keep your home cool without air conditioning. So before you turn to the thermostat, try these 12 alternative ways to cool your home. They’ll have you feeling comfortable in no time!

The post There’s a Right Way to Set Your Air Conditioner—Here’s How appeared first on Family Handyman.

For some of you, that means winterizing your home, making soups and crusty warm breads and tucking in for a long, cold winter. Others laugh in the face of a few snowflakes and a stiff north wind. You like fresh air!

I’m in the latter camp. I’d rather wear mittens indoors than feel claustrophobic and stuffy. Most of the year, you’ll find my windows open, and I wait a long time before turning on my furnace.

But is leaving a window open year round a good idea? I talked to heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) expert Brad Roberson, president of Aire Serv, and Allen Rathey, director of the Indoor Health Council, to find out.

Benefits of Leaving a Window Open

Great news! There are plenty of benefits to letting fresh air into your home.

Rathey says houses built in the last 50 years are much more airtight than ones built prior to the oil embargoes of the 1970s. That makes newer homes more energy efficient, but there’s a downside: less fresh air exchange. Air that used to vent through drafty windows, doors and attics now simply recirculates through your home.

Throwing open a window to exchange stale air offers several specific benefits:

• Improved air quality: Opening a window can reduce indoor air pollutants like carbon dioxide, vapors from cleaning products and cooking fuel byproducts.
• Humidity control: Dry winter air can do a number on your skin and lungs. “Fresh air can help regulate indoor humidity levels,” Roberson says, “preventing excessive dryness.”
• Odor removal: Even with a range hood or exhaust fan, cooking smells permeate every nook and cranny of your home. If you’ve ever lived over a restaurant, you know what I’m talking about.
• Mental well-being: Darkness at 5 p.m. can be kind of depressing, but opening a window may help. “Some people find fresh air invigorating,” Roberson says, “and it can help improve your mood and overall sense of well-being.”

Should You Leave a Window Open Year-Round?

That depends on your specific circumstances and preferences.

“Leaving a window open year-round is generally not advisable,” Roberson says. “In the winter, it’s usually more energy-efficient to keep windows closed to conserve heat, while in the summer, you might want to open windows to ventilate your home.”

When you open the window, your HVAC unit kicks in make up for the loss of heat or cool air that escapes. That could reduce the energy efficiency of your unit, Roberson says, and raise your energy bill. You may decide the fresh-air benefits outweigh a slight bump in cost, however.

“If you’re trying to improve indoor air quality, control humidity, or simply enjoy the benefits of fresh air, opening a window occasionally may be helpful,” Roberson says.

“The key is to strike a balance, ensuring that it doesn’t lead to excessive heat loss or discomfort. Using a window briefly during milder winter days can help achieve the benefits without causing your HVAC system to work excessively hard.”

Remember, too, your wallet and HVAC aren’t all that take a hit from wasted heat. Fossil fuel consumption directly contributes to climate change. So be judicious.

Leave a Window Open in Winter If…

Window openers, we’re in the clear, at least some of the time. If it’s a beautiful Texas day and you want some fresh air, turn off your HVAC and enjoy. But in Minnesota, if you’re snuggled under mountains of blankets and want to crack open the window while you sleep? Up to you.

“There is no ‘one-size fits all’ when it comes to our indoor spaces,” Rathey says. Let climate, humidity, air quality and other factors specific to you and your family inform your decision. “You can leave a window open in the winter,” Roberson says, “but it’s important to be selective about when and where.”

Consider leaving a window open…

• In stuffy or humid rooms:Kitchens and bathrooms benefit from fresh air exchange by reducing odors and moisture, but it’s best to keep your indoor relative humidity between 35% and 55%. “An inexpensive temperature and relative humidity meter can help show impacts from a slightly opened window,” Rathey says, “and flag you to close it when too much damp/cold air enters.”
• When outdoor air quality is good: Air pollution contains volatile organic compounds (VOCs), which are harmful to your lungs. When you allow fresh air into your home, Rathey says, “Dilution of VOC may reduce impacts to those with chemical sensitivities unless the outdoor air is more polluted than inside.” Check your local air quality index at AirNow.gov to make sure.
• On sunny and warm(er) days:Give your HVAC a break by taking advantage of good weather and natural heat from the sun. If you’re sensitive to airborne allergens and dust, ventilating may reduce these contaminants, Rathey says. Pay attention to humidity, though. Mold spores proliferate in wetter environments.
• If your windows have locks: “An open window can be an entry point for intruders,” Roberson says, “especially when you’re asleep or not at home.” Rathey says putting sash locks on your windows, allowing them to open a few inches and no more, can mitigate security concerns.

The post Should You Leave a Window Open in the Winter? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Read on to learn what outdoor mist cooling systems are, how they work and what makes them so great.

What Is an Outdoor Mist Cooling System?

Patio misting systems emit a fine mist of water from spray nozzles that cools people off when the water lands on their skin. The system is installed around the perimeter of the area to be cooled. This could be within a gazebo, a patio overhang or anywhere else the system can be secured overhead.

These systems feature water supply tubing (rigid pipe or flexible hose) with spray nozzles evenly spaced along the length. The supply tubing connects to an outdoor water source, like a garden hose or faucet. Simpler systems use the existing water pressure from a home’s main water supply, while others use special misting pumps that produce greater water pressure.

Misting systems connecting to home’s existing water pressure don’t require electricity. Models that use a misting pump need electricity and must be plugged into an outdoor electrical outlet.

How Do Outdoor Mist Cooling Systems Work?

Outdoor misting systems are based on evaporative cooling. Water can absorb a large amount of heat during evaporation as it goes from a liquid to gaseous state. That can lower surrounding temperature by up to 30 degrees F.

Generally, a finer mist with smaller water droplets will evaporate quicker and cool the area more rapidly and efficiently. A finer mist also leaves less residual moisture. Relative humidity can impact both factors because higher humidity levels inhibit the mist’s evaporation process. As a result, outdoor misting systems function best with relative humidity levels between 40 percent and 80 percent.

What Are the Different Types of Outdoor Mist Cooling Systems?

• Low-pressure misting systems derive water pressure solely from a home’s main water supply, which is between 40 pounds per square inch (psi) and 60 psi. They’re the cheapest to purchase and operate, and can be easily installed by most homeowners. The disadvantage? They don’t produce as fine a mist as mid- or high-pressure systems, so they won’t cool the surrounding area as much or as quickly. They also leave the highest amount of residual moisture behind, and won’t work as effectively in humid climates.
• Mid-pressure misting systems use a pump to boost the home’s water pressure to between 160 psi and 250 psi. They produce a finer mist that reduces the surrounding temperature more rapidly and effectively, and won’t leave as much residual moisture. They’re generally as easy to install as low-pressure systems, requiring only connecting the pump to an electric source and the supply tubing. But they’re more expensive initially and more expensive to operate.
• High-pressure misting systems use large and powerful misting pumps to boost the water pressure to between 750 psi and 1,500 psi. High-pressure systems cool the surrounding area rapidly and powerfully and leave the least amount of residual moisture. Unfortunately, high-pressure systems are quite expensive, consume considerably more electricity than mid-pressure misting pumps and may require professional installation. That’s why these systems are most often seen in commercial settings.
  

Outdoor Misting System Benefits and Features

Outdoor misting systems offer several advantages:

• Affordable outdoor cooling. An outdoor misting system can be more affordable to purchase and operate than other outdoor cooling systems, like a swamp cooler. There may also be no or minimal installation costs. Check out this DIY swamp cooler hack to cool you down.
• Energy-efficiency. Low-pressure misting systems don’t require electricity. Misting pumps for mid-pressure systems can use as little as 60 watts of electricity, or as much as a standard light bulb. High-pressure misting pumps aren’t nearly as energy-efficient because their pumps require several hundred watts of electricity to operate.
• Waters plants. If there are plants nearby, the misting system can double as landscape irrigation. In fact, misting systems can use up to 70 percent less water than traditional irrigation systems.
• Cleans air. The mist’s water droplets capture airborne dust, allergens and pollutants to clean the air.
• Repels insects. The mist may deter insects like mosquitoes, flies, bees and wasps. There’s no scientific evidence to support this claim, but it’s commonly observed that winged insects avoid the mist, possibly because it inhibits their flying ability.

How Much Does an Outdoor Mist Cooling Systems Cost?

Low-pressure misting systems typically cost between $30 and $100, mid-pressure systems between $200 and $1,000, and high-pressure systems between $1,500 and $3,500.

Professional installation usually runs an additional $190 to $675. You might need an electrician to add an outlet to power the misting pump, a plumber to install a water supply line or hang the system’s waterline, or a professional mist cooling system installer to perform the entire operation.

The post What to Know About Patio Misting Systems appeared first on Family Handyman.

Forced air heating is far more common, however, and for three reasons: “It’s cost-effective, easy to use, and allows for an AC system to incorporate directly into the same system,” says Korey Gregory, a superintendent for ASAP Restoration.

Because the warm air from a forced air heating system originates from a central heater either a furnace or a heat pump people often refer to it as a Central Air or HVAC (Heating, Ventilating, Air Conditioning) system. This helps avoid confusion between a whole-house heating system and a high-powered portable electric or gas heater that uses its own internal blower to distribute heat. These portable heaters also “force” warm air into the living space, and as Gregory pointed out, are what folks in some parts of the country think of as forced air heaters.

So, to be clear, we’re talking about central forced air heating systems in this post not portable ones.

I’ve had my share of maintenance experience with central forced air systems over my time as a homeowner. Without TLC, an HVAC system won’t work as expected, wasting energy and driving up your utility bill. “HVAC systems are complex, require permits and specialized tools, and involve safety hazards,” says Tim David of Airlucent.

Even so, you can (and should) take the time to understand your home’s system so you can perform routine tasks like cleaning internal parts and changing filters.

About the Experts

• Korey Gregory is the Superintendent for ASAP Restoration, LCC. He has more than 17 years of experience in the construction industry and currently manages HVAC installs and completes final walkthroughs with customers.
• Tim David is the CEO of Airlucent.com. He has more than 25 years of experience as an HVAC technician and now trains new technicians.

What Is Forced Air Heating?

A forced air heating system is one that heats air in a central location. It uses a fan or blower to distribute the heated air throughout an entire building via a ductwork system. The heat source may be electric heating elements, a heat pump (which also uses electricity), or the combustion of a fuel, such as natural gas, propane or heating oil.

How Does Forced Air Heating Work?

As Gregory puts it: “Forced air heating takes the air inside of a property and passes it over a heating element to warm it up, and then recirculates it throughout the home. When the air is recirculated, it passes back over the heater again and again until the ambient temperature of the room the thermostat is in gets to the desired level.”

The various parts of a forced air heating system must be choreographed to bring a room to the desired temperature and keep it there. This is the job of a central control panel that responds to signals from the thermostat and sends prompts to the various system components to switch on and off. Every system also includes a number of safety sensors and switches designed to shut everything down in the event of a malfunction.

Parts of a Forced Air Heating System

A forced air heating system needs a heat source, a fan to circulate air and ductwork to deliver conditioned air throughout the building and return air to the heater for further conditioning. Systems vary according to fuel, but most of them include these components:

• Heat source: Heat may be generated by a gas or electric furnace or a heat pump. Furnaces that burn a fuel do so in a sealed combustion chamber.
• Inducer fan: Switches on to clear gases from the combustion chamber before the furnace starts up. It continues running until the furnace shuts down. This is an increasingly common component of gas furnaces.
• Heat exchanger: “This is usually a steel or cast iron box that is responsible for transferring the heat to the air that you circulate through the space,” says David. “Think of it as the heart of your heating system.”
• Plenum: A large enclosed area above the heat exchanger where warm air collects before distribution.
• Supply and return ducts: A network of steel or fiberglass supply ducts deliver air through the building via adjustable vent openings called registers. Air drawn through a return register circulates back to the heat source through the return ducts to be reheated.
• Blower or fan: Blows heated air through the supply ducts and sucks unconditioned air through the return duct for reheating.
• Thermostat: Usually located in a central area, the thermostat monitors room temperature and switches the system on and off as needed.
• Exhaust vents: Combustion gases are released outside the building through the exhaust vents. High-efficiency furnaces also need a drainage system to direct condensation outside.

Forced Air Heating Pros and Cons

According to Gregory, “Forced air heating systems are popular because they are cost-effective, easy to use, and allow for an AC system to incorporate directly into the same design.” However, there are also some drawbacks to consider before going all-in on a forced air system.

Pros

• It provides heat quickly: A well-designed system can warm a room quickly; some HVAC pros claim in as little as five minutes.
• It’s controllable: You can regulate heat flow to certain parts of the building by opening and closing registers.
• It’s affordable: Forced air systems are less expensive to install than radiant heat systems that use a boiler.

Cons

• It can cause low humidity in your home: “Because furnaces heat air,” says David, “they can sometimes lead to a reduction in indoor humidity, potentially causing dry air issues.” Dry air can damage wood floors by causing shrinkage and gapping. It can also adversely impact people with respiratory health issues.
• Leaking ducts: Leaks in a forced air heating system’s ducts can reduce heating efficiency and increase monthly heating bills.
• It can get noisy: The system’s fans produce an audible hum that usually isn’t loud enough to be problematic, but it can become so if the system isn’t maintained.

How to Maintain a Forced Air Heating System

Because of the need to test and possibly replace sensitive electronic equipment, most forced air heating problems need professional attention. Most manufacturers recommend a yearly professional tune-up to keep a system in top shape. However, homeowners can and should do these simple tasks themselves:

• Replace air filters yearly or every three months during periods of heavy use.
• Switch off the system in the fall and manually clean dust from the blower motor and the inside of the plenum.
• Inspect the ductwork periodically for leaks.

Understanding Common Alternative Heaters

Learn about popular alternative heating options, from cost savings to eco-friendly solutions and everything in between.

• Best Solar Furnace, Electric, PV Panels Greenhouse Heaters and How to Buy One
• A How-To Guide on Electric Heater Installation
• What to Know About Electric Baseboard Heaters
• Electric vs. Hydronic Radiant Floor Heating Systems

Sources

• Bayhealth.org: “Effects of Dry Winter Air and Indoor Heating on our Respiratory Health” (2020)

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