Inflatables, inflatables, inflatables! Have you noticed how inflatables seem to be a part of holiday decor every season? Big ones, small ones. Halloween, Christmas, cartoon characters, fantastical! They are not cheap, and truth be told, the biggest challenge to having inflatables in your front yard is they are fragile. Some inflatables are even delicate. The question is, after investing in decorative inflatables, how do you take care of them to ensure your investment lasts for more than one season?

Most inflatable yard decorations are made from durable, waterproof nylon or other synthetic materials so they can resist rain. However, the true secret to having your inflatable around for more than one season is how you take care of it when it is up and how you store it during the off-season.

Here are a few tips to protect your inflatable investment and ensure the fun lasts more than one season.

Before you use your inflatable

• Read the directions and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for exposure to extreme temperatures and moisture, such as snow, ice or rain.
• Location, location! Choose a flat, clean area far away from Christmas trees and other sharp objects to display your inflatable.
• Check for tears and rips at the start of each new season. Small holes will prevent the inflatable from properly filling, and over time, small holes will become bigger holes.
• Everything has a limit. Follow recommended weight limits, restrictions and recommendations.

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For plant enthusiasts, Kokedama offers a creative and visually appealing way to incorporate greenery into your home. Kokedama is a unique houseplant trend that focuses on how you plant and display your leafy companions. Rather than using pots, Kokedama involves wrapping the plant’s root system in a moss-covered soil ball, resulting in a natural and visually striking presentation.

This method allows you to easily add a touch of living, thriving vegetation to any space in an artistic, unconventional manner. Embracing the Kokedama style can be an excellent way to bring more vibrancy and life into your living environment through the display of your beloved houseplants.

What Is a Kokedama?

Kokedama bares its roots in Japan and is a many centuries old garden art. Most recently, the concept of Kokedama gardening has come into popularity in the west. Known for its beauty, kokedama literally means “moss ball” in Japanese. It is also known as Poor Man’s Bonsai or String Garden as most Kokedama gardens seem to float in the air when they are hung with transparent fishing line.

The curious thing about Kokedama is the learning curve lies in making your first one. Once you figure out the dirt mix and how to form your ball shape, it can become addictive because you want to have more and more. Find the right combination of water and light and you will find successful Kokedamas can live for years. Here are some tips and trick to starting you very own indoor Kokedama garden.

Mix the soil

Mix together one part bonsai soil, one part peat moss, and half part potting soil.

These soil ingredients combine to create good drainage and aeration, which is crucial to prevent root rot, support excellent moisture retention, and allow roots to stay moist between waterings. They are also lightweight and sturdy, which makes them easy to hang.

Add small amounts of water as you go and combine to a thickness where the soil clumps together. You will know your dirt soil mix is to the right consistency when you press it in to your hand and it stays together in a tight shape. Press and form a dirt ball five to six inches in diameter.

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Family gatherings, holiday get-togethers, dinner parties for friends it doesnt matter the time of year or the event, customizing your dining table can be both a challenge and a lot of fun. Or, better yet, a fun challenge! You want to be creative and unique but not over-the-top kitschy. As far as I am concerned, napkin rings set the stage for any table. As I pondered how to create a one-of-a-kind napkin ring, I settled on copper etching and a patina solution for just the unique touch I desired. Handmade, warm, rustic, and fun to make using pre-cut copper pipe.

Once you gather all the elements required to make this project, it can be done in less than an hour and a half. The other benefit is that once you figure out how easy it is to do copper etching, you will want to do it repeatedly. The technique is easily applied and can be incorporated into many shapes and forms. I promise these napkin rings will serve as a wonderful topic of conversation. Don’t forget to say, “Yes, I made them!”

Prep the copper pipe

To ensure that the napkins fit easily in the DIY napkin rings and to give you enough room to draw the design you desire, use copper pipes with at least 1/2-in. diameter by 2-in. length.

The copper must be free of dirt, oil, and fingerprints before etching. Oil residue is often left behind on pipes during manufacturing. Even oil on your fingers can compromise the etching process. To ensure your copper is free of oil and fingerprints, wipe it down with alcohol and a cotton rag. Packaged alcohol swabs also work great.

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I grew up with parents who love music. Dancing was a favorite pastime in my household, and my mother still has an extensive album collection to this day. If you havent noticed, those old-school vinyl records are back in vogue. Now that they’re considered cool again, there’s been some huge growth in LP record player sales. As I looked over my moms old albums, I thought it would be cool to figure out a nice way to display them. With that goal in mind, I began to tinker around with how to make a wooden crate with a vinyl record display.

If you’ll allow me to get on my DIY soapbox: I truly believe that once you know how to make a box, you can make a million things. Lets make it a million and one with this hip and a bit retro wood record crate.

Project Overview

Cutting List

Overall dimensions: 16-1/2″w x 16-1/2″h x 17-1/4″d

Cut the wood

For this project, I found some 5/8-inch thick walnut wood boards at the lumber yard. If you cannot find any similar boards, you may wish to run 3/4-in. boards through a thickness planner or drum sander to get to 5/8-inch, or simply construct the project using 3/4-inch thick material. Keep in mind the latter will alter some dimensions on the cutting list.

Cut wood slats (A, D), trim pieces (B, C), and album ledger (E) out of the walnut lumber using the table saw and miter saw.

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Circles are difficult to create. Whether you draw them by hand or try to achieve that perfect circle with a tool, they are not always easy, especially when it comes to wood. I tell all my clients that curves and circles always cost moretime and moneyuntil your world opens up to a router circle jig, also known as a trammel arm.

A router circle jig basically sets the center point and allows you to make a circle with whatever you put at the other end of it, sort of like a compass. A pencil, a jigsaw, a router can all work well to make a circle with a trammel arm jig. I used to dread making circles until I found out I could attach my wood router to a jig. Let me make your woodworking life easier and certainly much more pleasant by sharing the steps to making this simple woodworking jig. You may not need it often, but when you do, you will be happy to know how to make it!

Remove the router base plate

Unscrew the plastic base plate (also called a shoe, running plate, or sub-base) to remove it from the wood router.

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The first thing to do when planning any garden or landscape feature is to ask yourself what you want out of it. Are you trying to attract birds? Add color or fragrance to the area? Or cover up some unsightly porch or deck footings? For our project, our goal was to create low-maintenance front yard landscaping that would freshen up our space and boost the curb appeal of our home.

I want to be very clear: low maintenance landscape does not mean NO maintenance. A flower bed or landscape feature in your yard is a living thing that will require some attention. As much as we wish low maintenance meant “put it in the ground and you’re done,” that is not the case. At a minimum, you must water and pay attention to how your garden grows. Plants are just like people: some are high maintenance, and some are low maintenance. Do a little homework so you can make your choice wisely, and the whole flower garden season will be easier in the end.

I was very fortunate to have Melinda Myers, a highly regarded landscape designer, on this project. I gained a ton of knowledge and am happy to share some of her insight.

Choose plants for garden

Once you know what you want from your garden, it’s time to determine the plants that will get you there. Myers recommends first visiting your local garden center and reading the plant tags.

“Plant tags are excellent,” she says. “They give you the growing conditions and the size of the plant. Some nurseries are now sharing more information on their website, where you can learn so much more than just the hardiness zone. Will it flower? Is it going to provide interest for songbirds and butterflies? Will it match the color you are looking for?”

Sketch out a plot map that includes the anchor plants you want to plant to get an idea of how the garden will come together. Consider the size of the plants now and how big they will grow. Myers always plans to “use smaller complementary plants and annuals for quick fill until plants grow into the space, so it looks like your garden has been there for a while.”

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One of the most satisfying things I have learned is how to refinish wood furniture. I cant begin to tell you how many pieces of furniture that were once someone else’s garbage have landed in my hands. With the right attention, approach and dedication, another mans garbage can become your treasure.

The hardest part about restoring a piece of wood furniture is developing the patience to see all the steps through. This is one DIY project you dont want to rush, and it is highly unlikely you will get it done in one afternoon. Restoring old furniture is hardly ever straight forward, and a technique that worked for one piece might not work for another. The trick is to know your options and then have enough knowledge to do the detective work and make an effective plan.

The steps are basic and easy. Be patient and thorough, and people will think your refinished wood furniture is new!

Assess the condition

Take a good look at your piece of wood furniture from as many angles as possible. Use painters tape to pinpoint areas that will need extra attention, such as putty build-up or deep dings that will require extra sanding to even out. It is easy to overlook areas when the dust starts flying. Then, you will need to answer some questions to determine how you go about refinishing your piece of furniture:

Is the piece made out of solid wood, laminate, or veneered plywood?

A solid wood piece of furniture is one of the most forgiving and most suitable candidates for refinishing. With veneered plywood furniture, you need to be cautious when sanding, not to sand through the wood veneer. Laminate furniture is the worst candidate for refinishing because the plastic laminate won’t take sanding, stain, or paint well.

Are the joints solid, or do they need reinforcement?

If nails or screws are loose, secure them so no further damage is done while you are refinishing it. You want to work on a solid piece and avoid having a leg fall off while you are sanding. If it requires gluing, use clamps to get a tight fit and a paintbrush or screwdriver to push it down into any deep voids.

Is there a stain under the topcoat that you may have to match?

If you have stained wood under a topcoat or sealer, you will have difficulty doing a perfect color match. Stain and sealer colors change with age, making them yellow or even deepen in tone. Therefore, it is very difficult to get an exact match. This would be the time to consider painting the furniture a solid paint color. If you choose to paint it a solid paint color, you may use all the following steps, but add a good coat of primer before proceeding with paint instead of clear sealer.

Is the current finish water-based or oil-based?

This is the most important piece of detective work you must uncover. If the finish has a yellowing appearance, it is probably an oil-based finish. Also, if a piece of wood furniture was made before the 1980s, it is even more likely to be oil-based, as water-based clear sealers didnt take off until then. The importance of this question lies in what paint, stain, or finish you plan to refinish it with. Water-based finishes can only go over water-based finishes, but oil-based finishes can cover everything.

Clean the surface

Remove all of the hardware and clean the surface using a solution made up of three parts water and one part vinegar. This will help break down grease and grime. Be sure not to use a heavily saturated wet rag; you want to wipe off the dirt and grime and not leave a lot of excess moisture on the wood. Allow it to dry well before moving on.

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Most people think of a lazy Susan as a simple round circle spinning on a table. However, in my mind, the form a lazy Susan takes can truly be up to its creator. I decided to make a DIY lazy Susan and take the concept to a whole new level by making it a charcuterie board. These days, it seems like everyone is caught up in a charcuterie craze. Charcuterie boards are being served up everywhere. Restaurants, parties, events all seem to offer a combination of fruits, nuts, cheese, crackers and cured meats served on a wooden serving board. However, I have yet to see a spinning Lazy Susan Charcuterie board.

The way I approached the steps makes this project almost DIY fail-proof. First, you will see how easily the charcuterie board-style tray takes shape with the help of an acrylic router template. Then, I will share the secret to installing a Lazy Susan Mechanism, and I am certain you will be amazed at how easy it is. Get the nuts, fruit and cured meats ready while we DIY our way to presentation, presentation, presentation!

Set up the router template

Cut the wood slightly larger than the acrylic router template, which at its widest point is roughly 12-inch x 8-inch.

Place the acrylic router template on the piece of wood and position it where you like it. Use a pencil to outline the template so you have an established starting position. Secure the wood and router template to your worktable with clamps so it doesnt shift while routing.

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Every house has numbers so people and the post can find you. Have you noticed how many people DON’T give their house numbers a DIY creative consideration? Most are satisfied with the numbers the house had from the minute they walked in. For this project, I pondered how a set of numbers on the front of your home can set the stage for what lies beyond the door. From a technical perspective, I designed this project so all of you can say, I can do that! Still, from a design perspective, I want the modern house numbers to boost the curb appeal and speak to the people walking up the door for the first time with a “wow,” all while giving it a cool, modern vibe.

Where To Put House Numbers

Your house number should be displayed at eye level or higher in a location where they are easily visible from the road and free of obstructions, such as tree branches. It is recommended that you use contrasting colors or place them near a well-lit area so they are easily visible in low light conditions. Use bigger numbers the further away your home is from the road.

Project Overview

Cutting List

Overall dimensions: 41-1/2″H x 7-1/2″W x 8-1/4″D

Stain the trim

Stain the trim pieces for the panel and flower box (D, E, F, and G) in a contrasting darker color.

Set the stained pieces aside and allow them to dry while you proceed to the next step. Touch up any exposed ends after the number panel is put together and framed.

To avoid staining the natural-colored wood pieces (A, B, and C) with your fingerprints while you put the piece together, you MUST ensure the dark wood stain is dry before you start to handle it. Also, using oil-based stain will give your wood even more longevity when exposed to the elements.

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A very easy way to define a flower bed or a walkway is with landscape edging. Edging comes in many materials, including plastic, wood and my personal favorite- metal.

Besides helping to define a garden’s edge and keeping things such as dirt, mulch or stones in place, metal edging has many upsides. It is easy to calculate, and the actual material is flexible, which means it takes curves easily. It is also relatively easy to cut with a cut-off wheel and angle grinder and comes in a few different colors to choose from.

Installing metal edging is an easy project with the physical demand of being on your hands and knees for the duration. With all landscaping projects remember, slow and steady wins the race. Wear kneepads, pace yourself, plan for more time than you anticipate and drink lots of fluids as you go. Happy gardening!

Lay out the area

Before cutting your lawn, you will want a visual reference to ensure placement. Define a specific line where you plan to install your metal edging by spraying with a colored landscape marking spray paint. This spray paint is designed for use in an inverted position for marking construction and landscape projects. It works great on exterior surfaces such as concrete, blacktop, gravel, soil and grass.

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One of my proudest DIY moments was when I first replaced a light fixture. Dealing with electricity comes with equal parts intimidation and fear. The thought of dealing with the connections of electric wires felt insurmountable and challenging.

Boy, was I wrong! While installing or changing a basic light fixture requires a high regard for safety and some attention to detail, it is not complicated. Nor does it require expensive tools. When it comes to electricity, there is one rule you cannot break or deviate from: Cut off the power to the source and test it before you touch it.

Although I have gained experience with electrical work, I would not consider myself quick or extremely skilled at it. Because we wanted to install our outdoor light fixture in a place without a junction box or wiring and intended for it to be connected to its own switch inside the entryway, I called an electrician. Burkhardt sent out a licensed electrician to install the box, run the wiring from outside through the walls in our office and to the entryway, and expand the box in the entryway to accommodate an additional switch, all in just a few hours. It would have taken me much longer to do and probably included patching more holes in my drywall. By calling, I turned this into a few-hour project rather than a full weekend project.

Choosing a porch light fixture

When choosing a light fixture for your porch, consider how much it will be exposed to moisture from the elements. When shopping for a porch light fixture, you find exterior grade light fixtures and damp-rated light fixtures. Choose accordingly if your light fixture will be exposed to all the weather elements, use and Exterior grade. If your light fixture will live under a covered porch that doesnt receive sheets of rain, you may opt for a damp-rated fixture. It is a judgement call, when it comes to electricity outdoors go for the best protection you can find. Look for a light fixture with a universal mounting bar or mounting plate to ensure it is compatible with whichever junction box was installed.

Safety considerations

As with all electrical projects, ensure that the power to the area you are working in is turned off at the breaker before beginning work. Use a non-contact voltage connector, insulated tools and a non-metal ladder during installation. And, if at all possible, choose to do your installation on a dry day. The last thing you want to do is install a light fixture when it’s raining.

Cut the hole

After determining where you wish to hang your outdoor light, use a hole saw to cut a hole through the soffit panels and OSB underlayment into the cavity above the porch.

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If you enjoy spending time with friends and family as much as I do, you know having a bar at home makes entertaining that much easier. Having all your beverages and accessories within reach and well-organized will make your social gatherings stress-free. So, why not make it yourself? All your choices, personality, character and style. Here is to building a bar – Cheers!

A note about paint and stain

You will notice that this project contains both painted and stained components. When constructing woodworking projects such as this, I always paint and stain my parts before assembling them. This allows the project to be completed faster by just touching up paint and requires less taping off and cutting in. That’s why I’ll include the finish in the cutting list below.

The only exception to that rule is when a component requires a lot of machining (such as the wine rack on this project) and will require the pieces to be sanded before being put together.

Figure A: Wine Rack Overview

Figure B: Cabinet Overview

Figure C: Kickplate Overview

Figure D: Shelf Overview

Cutting List

Overall dimensions: 64″w x 44″t x 28″d

* – Before cutting 31.5 angle.
** – 45 miters on both ends.

Remove the bark on the slab

Purchase a flattened live edge slab roughly 1-1/2-inches thick or buy a thicker slab and flatten it yourself with a planner, wide belt sander, or router gantry.

Remove all the bark along the natural edge of your live edge bar top (A). You may find some of the bark is loose, and some of it may be harder to pull off. To remove the bark, use a chisel and enter along the edge of the cadmium layer, which is the innermost part of the bark but not the actual wood. Hammer at the chisel to pry away the bark. Dont worry if it isnt perfect at this point. You will come back and clean it up with a wire wheel and sanding pad later.

• Tip: Avoid cutting bark with your circular saw. It often has dirt and small pebbles embedded in it that will dull or chip the blades when cutting it.

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Are you ready to elevate your home decor and impress your guests with unique, handmade drink coasters? In this step-by-step project, we’ll explore how to make DIY coasters using two distinct materials: epoxy resin and cement. These materials offer a perfect blend of creativity and functionality.

We’ll start by diving into how to make resin coasters, showcasing epoxy’s versatility and vibrant potential. Then, we’ll switch gears to demonstrate how to make coasters with a more industrial chic vibe using cement. Both methods allow for endless customization and experimenting with colors and textures. By the end of this, you’ll have the skills to craft beautiful, durable coasters that not only protect your surfaces but also serve as conversation starters at your next gathering.

How To Make Resin Coasters

Measure and mix the epoxy

Plan to work in a dust-free environment. Make sure you have a designated area where you will leave your resin pieces to cure so that they will not be disturbed. Note the epoxy open time. That is the time from mixing until epoxy resin sets. The resin will stay sticky and tacky for at least 12 hours. Any small dust particles that land on your resin during this time will settle in it and be visible in your finished product. While curing, cover your resin with a plastic tarp to protect it from flying insects or dust particles.

In two separate clear mixing cups, measure out equal parts of epoxy resin and hardener.

Be sure that your resin mix has acclimated to room temperature before mixing. Warm up the resin by sitting it in a bucket of hot water for 15 minutes before mixing it to reduce air bubbles and make it easier to pour.

Use a popsicle stick or plastic knife to mix the two parts thoroughly, but not too aggressively, as it could create air bubbles in the resin. The resin will initially appear cloudy, but as you stir, it will become clearthis indicates that your epoxy resin has been combined well and is ready for use.

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Long ago, I realized that one quick and simple way to organize your home is to build a DIY drawer divider for your junk drawers. We all have at least one junk drawer in our desk or kitchen cabinets. Most of us cant stand it and yet dont know what to do with it. Organization has always been near and dear to my heart, so I decided to tackle that drawer mess and am happy to share how I went about it by making a drawer organizer with an unexpected material that makes it completely washable and waterproof.

I found it easier to make repetitive half-lap joints with my router and a custom jig than with a table saw. This jig enabled me to repeat the cuts without measuring each time I repeated the same cut.

Overview of Jig

Jig Cutting List

Measure the drawer and cut the PVC

I chose 5/16-inch thick exterior PVC siding trim for the drawer organizer. It is textured on one side and smooth on the other. Since it is made of PVC, your drawer divider can be easily dismantled and cleaned when necessary. Furthermore, this material cuts very easily and cleanly with a router.

Measure the height of your drawer and rip the PVC material so it is at least 1/2-inch shorter than the top of the drawer box.

Measure the length and width of the inside of your drawer. To start, cut three pieces of the ripped PVC to the length and another three pieces to the width. Once you have determined the layout and size of the compartments you’d like in your drawer, cut more for the rest of the drawer.

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Plants add a wonderful element to any living environment. Only recently did I start to consider growing plants in anything other than pots, on the floor or sitting on a side table near a window. I love my plants and wanted to find a creative way to incorporate them into an indoor space. As I researched ideas and options, I found living walls are all the rage and very much on trend.

The more I pondered making a living wall, the more I realized I have some specific things I want to incorporate into it. I want my living wall to be modular so I can change and rearrange it as my indoor plants grow. I want to water my living wall plants/pots in place, and I don’t want to pull out a ladder whenever I want to reach the top layer. I want my living wall to have a glowing essence. And I want to make my living wall big.

This means adding a drip system and accent lighting and truly filling up a wall space. This living wall combines functionality, visual stimulation and an easy DIY approach to making it a reality. The only secret is to have fun and feel free to make your own decisions to customize it your way.

Cutting List

Overall dimensions: 66″w x 66″t x 6-1/2″d

Note: This cutting list is specific to our wall, which had two vertical slats, two horizontal slats, and five planter boxes.
* – One edge ripped at 30.
** – With 45 miters at each end.

Cut the cleats

Using a table saw, rip a few 1x4s at a 30-degree angle so the shorter face of the rip is 1-1/2-inches. This will be your frame cleats (M) and box cleats (D) that mimics the dimensions of the box slats (C). Then, rip the straight side of the offcut so that the long face is 1-in. This will be your wall cleat (E).

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Repotting a plant is more than putting a plant in a pot. Not all plants belong in the same pot. Not all pots are adequate for all plants. Plastic, terracotta, cement, ceramic, wood? Many things to consider.

Growing a thriving plant depends on the soil and pot you choose for it. I am amazed at how many times I find a friend has a potted plant dying simply because the pot they have it in does not have a hole for drainage, the roots are rotting, and their watering schedule is off. A plant WILL tell you what it needs. You just have to observe it. Seeing roots emerge from drainage holes, roots emerge from the soil, and leaves and stems drop off all indicate that it is time to repot the plant. My assumption is that you have a great soil mix for your plant. I must, however, also share how to select the correct pot for the plant and how to create drainage in any container without a hole.

Before you repot, research the plants you will pot and what they prefer in terms of moisture, light, and pH balance. Then, according to meter readings, adjust the watering schedule, light exposure, and soil acidity. Give the plant a good watering a few days before you plan to repot it. This will help the plant have a heartier transition and loosen the roots from the walls of the old pot.

Select a potting container

Terracotta pots are always a happy home for plants because they absorb moisture and breathe with the plant. However, if the pot you choose is metal, plastic or ceramic glazed, ensure it has a hole at the bottom for proper drainage.

If your pot does not have a hole, you can easily drill one to allow water to drain properly and prevent roots from rotting or fungus and disease from developing. Use a drill bit that is appropriate for the material of your pot. Masonry bit for ceramic or terracotta. Metal bit for metal. Glass bit for glass. Acrylic or wood bit for plastic or resin. If you have to drill a hole in your pot:

• Find and mark the center point of your pot’s bottom. Place a couple of pieces of painter’s tape where you intend to drill to prevent chipping or cracking, especially in glass or ceramic.
• Drill through the bottom or turn it upside down and drill downward. Either way, ensure you have a sacrificial piece of wood supporting where you will drill through to prevent the drill from blowing out the material and creating any further damage to the pot.
• When drilling through glass, ceramics, terracotta, or plaster, add water to cool the bit and prevent the powder of the material from becoming airborne. If you are drilling through metal, a couple of drops of oil will do the same to lubricate the bit and material.

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I love plants and quickly realized that my plants do better when I make my own potting soil. It is part science and part green thumb instinct not brain surgery!

I used to purchase potting soil in a bag off the shelf, and after some plants failed, I decided to get a soil meter. The pH balance of potting soil out of a bag was often too high or too low. I found that by mixing my own soil, I can better control the pH balance in my dirt and help my potted plants thrive in the elements where I place them. After getting a soil meter, I quickly learned I could change the pH by adding acidity in the form of coffee grounds. First, let me share how I mix my potting soil, along with some green thumb tips to help your leafy friends thrive.

These are gardening hacks for mixing potting soil for plants needing more moisture and/or repotting for plants requiring less moisture, such as succulents and cacti. Small adjustments in each recipe make all the difference in the world to your plants. Different plants prefer different pH balances or acidities in the mixture. Take the time to research the plants you will pot and what they prefer. Adjust ratios and eliminate or remove materials as you see fit to create the best potting soil for your plant.

DIY potting soil recipe:

• 1-part loam soil, commonly called garden soil
• 2-parts sphagnum peat moss or coco coir fiber
• 1-1/2-parts perlite
• 1/2-cup of sand
• 1/2-teaspoon of lime (only if you are using peat moss)
• 1-teaspoon of granular organic fertilizer
• 1-teaspoon of bone meal
• Worm castings – follow the recommended ratio from the manufacturer
• 1-part vermiculite (for succulents and cactus)

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Making a terrarium will bring you enjoyment and satisfaction. It is also about as close as you are going to get to a Zen DIY project.

There are two keys to making and maintaining a thriving DIY terrarium. The first key is in the choice of layers used to create nutrients and ensure drainage. This is all about filtration and healthy soil, promoting root growth, and preventing fungus and disease. The second key to a successful terrarium surrounds moisture and how you will capture it or let it evaporate via an open terrarium or a closed terrarium. The ultimate decision on what kind of terrarium you should create is based on your chosen plants. Some plants thrive in moisture, calling for a closed terrarium. Other plants, such as succulents and cactus, require an arid environment, calling for an open terrarium to truly make them happy.

Follow along as I share the step-by-step process and formula to a thriving green thumb. You can choose between an open terrarium or a closed terrarium.

Overview of terrarium soil layers

Select the proper terrarium container

For a closed terrarium
Choose a container with a lid that will capture moisture and hold enough soil and drainage layers to support the growth of your plants.

For an open terrarium
Choose a container with an open top that can hold enough layers to support the growth of your plants. Keep in mind that you will want to reach in with your hand or small gardening tools. Therefore, it will be easier to plant and maintain a vessel with a wider mouth than a narrow neck. It is doable but much more challenging to plant, maintain, and troubleshoot a vessel with a small opening.

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Replacing the handle of a shovel or yard tool is one of those projects you dont consider ’til you have a broken handle in your hand. Ugh! I never thought of replacing a shovel handle until I walked past the assortment of handles at the hardware store and realized I had a shovel I needed to replace the handle for.

Next time your shovel handle breaks, you’ll have a choice. You can either spend $50 (or more) to replace the tool or spend $20 to buy a new handle and replace it yourself. In addition to cost savings, it is a very satisfying fix. So let’s do this!

Parts of a shovel

Remove the shovel rivets

Secure the shovel head collar and handle in a vise or with clamps. Holding the shovel collar and handle in place with clamps or vise will make this process easier and safer. Never do this fix holding the shovel in your hands alone.

Tap out the rivet/pin cap with a cold chisel (for metal). The goal is to create space to get the head of the rivet to protrude enough to access and easily cut off. Using an angle grinder or a handheld metal hack saw, cut the head of the rivet/pin off. Clear what remains of the rivet/pin out of the hole in the handle and shovel collar. You may have to use a 3/16-in. metal punch or a nail set to force out the rivet/pin.

If you have two rivets/pins in your shovel, repeat the same process to get the handle fully released. Some handles may have a nail or screws driven in from both sides. Either way, a cold chisel will help you pull them out, and you may not need an angle grinder to cut the head.

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Building a disc swing using a woodturning lathe is probably one of my favorite projects. Truth be told, anything made on a lathe will be among my favorites because it is my all-time favorite tool! Once you know the woodturning basics, making a disc swing on a lathe is woodturning 101.

A woodturning lathe is statistically the last tool a carpenter sets out to use. It does have a steep learning curve, and the initial investment to get started can be pricey. However, there are ways to get your hands on a lathe without purchasing one. Some woodworking stores give lessons and have open studio time, and many woodturning clubs have lathes available to their members. I promise: once you try woodturning, you’ll want to do more.

Here I share the steps to making a disc swing on a lathe, a very easy woodturning project once you have mastered the basics. Alternatively, you may choose to use a router to construct the swing, which I also discuss below.

Prep wood for turning

Regardless of the size of the wood you will mount, find the center and pencil out your circle. Use a miter saw to cut 45-degree cuts close to your line on your circle to eliminate as much of the wood outside the circle as possible. You will end up with an octagon. This will help you reach a balanced circle faster once you start cutting with the chisels on the lathe.

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Making a room divider from scratch is a wonderful way to create something completely personalizedtoa specific room.Shape, color,dimensions all customized by you.

You can make aDIY room divideras simple or complicated as you wantit to be. The only element required is creativity. Functionality is inherent in the project. The base design is made up of three sections of wood joined by hinges. If you want your organizer to be extra special, you canadd legs and a frame. If youreallywant to take your room divider to another level, you can further consider adding things like pegs, paint, or fabric.

Take the basic steps I share here and make it all your own. I hate to sound clich, but the possibilities are truly endless.

Cutting List

* – cut to fit

Cut the plywood

Using atable saw, cut the three plywood panels (A–C) out of your sheet of 1/2-in. plywood. Feel free to changeupthe dimensions and size to fit your space. I wanted to play with the dimensions by varying the height to make the piece more interesting and optimize the yield in my sheet of plywood.

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Cut the wood for the base (A), sides (B), top cap (C), front and back top faces (D)andpot supports (E). All the components are straightforward, square cuts on the miter saw,exceptthe front and back top faces (D)that havea miter cut on each end.

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At some point in our lives, we have all purchased ready-to-assemble (RTA) or “flat-pack” furniture. You know, the Ikea furniture, or other big box furniture that requires assembly and is commonly made of laminated particle board.

What Is Flat-Pack Furniture?

Flat-pack products are sold in separate parts and flat-packed in cardboard boxes (hence the term “flat-pack”) for ease of shipping and to take up less space in retail stores. This combination of factors reduces the price and makes the flat pack furniture more appealing. Unfortunately, not all flat-pack furniture is created equal.

Why Reinforce Flat-Pack Furniture?

The whole secret to furniture being strong and solid is in the joints or any connection where pieces come together. The main reason flat-pack furniture fails is that it is mostly made of particleboard, which is not as strong as solid wood.There is no glue or adhesive incorporated into the assembly process, which then guarantees it will fall apart easily.

You can reinforce flat-pack furniture and make it stronger in a number of simple ways. The question is when should you do it?Before the furniture is put together or after it is already assembled? Both can be done with slightly different approaches that will lead to stronger flat-pack furniture that will last!

Where you reinforce flat-pack furniture and what you choose to reinforce it with is strictly a judgment call. There can be different ways to reinforce the same piece. The important part is to know your options and then incorporate the reinforcement in a way that doesn’t ruin the look and style of your piece of furniture.

By incorporating any or all of these tips to strengthen the connections/joints, you will ensure your furniture lasts as long as you wish.

Tips

• Use construction adhesive, CA, or polyurethane glue when joining a painted or laminated and finished surface.
• Use wood glue to join raw wood surfaces.
• Use screws with matching finish washers for exposed screws.
• To stabilize the whole unit, remove the back panel and reattach using glue in addition to the nails.
• Bar clamps will make the process easier by securely holding things in place while the glue dries.
• To prevent splitting, be sure to pre-drill for any screws or dowels you are going to add.

Reinforce Flat-Pack Furniture During Assembly

Add wood glue todowels

Manyflat-packunits, including mostRTA kitchen cabinets, call for dowels to connect sections or pieces.Dowels expand and contract dependingon the time of the year or theamount of humidity in the environment. This movement leads to dowel connections falling apart and loosening over time.

To ensure dowels do their job for a long time and stay in place, add a few drops of glue into the hole and around the dowel before itis inserted.You wanta little bit ofglue to squeeze out, as this guarantees you have enough in the hole.

Use a wet rag to clean up any excess glue and avoiddrips of gluedrying and becoming unsightly.Leaving glue behind may also leave a visible difference in the finish.

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The most commonupholstery repairis fixing a frayed or pulled-apart seam. Frayed seam damage usually occurs over time due to natural wear and tear. We usually only think of fixing torn upholstery after we are tired of looking at it. The good news for DIYers is that you can fix frayed or pulled-apart seams without taking apart the piece of furniture.

No one in their right mind would throw away an expensive piece of furniture with a frayed edge or seam on anupholstered cushion. But upholsterers want a pretty penny for a repair, which can make the task seem intimidating.

The truth is that taking on this repair job will ultimately cost you more in time than money. It is not a complicated fix, but it does require patience and attention to detail. Upholstery repair is not a project you want to take on while feeling rushed or if you’re having a hard time focusing. But if you have the patience, I truly believe anyone willing to wield a needle and thread can be successful with this DIY fix.

Prep the seam

For repairs like this, professional upholsterers use curved needles, which are inexpensive and highly efficient. However, if all you have is a straight upholstery needle, that will suffice.

Thread the needle and tie a knot at the end. Prep the rip by doing a back stitch on one side of the open seam, going all the way from one end of the damage to the other. This will prevent the seam from fraying further and strengthen the repair. Prepping the seam is particularly helpful when you have a wide weave with threads that easily come apart.

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Yes, there is a way to repair holes in upholstery. Whether it is a small tear or a burn hole from a fireplace ember, you can fix it. You’ll just need patience and attention to detail.

It can be very frustrating looking down at a small hole in an upholstered piece ofold furniture, knowing you should be able to repair it but not having a clue where to begin. As with most things requiring a repair, the answers to fixing upholstery can seem like ancient secrets hidden behind a cloud of long-lost wisdom. I am here to share some of those upholstery secrets, put the wisdom in your hands and help you repair your favorite piece of furniture instead of tossing it out over a silly little hole.

Prep

In order to repair the hole, you must disassemble the seat and access the back of the fabric and hole almost like you are about to reupholster the chair completely. If disassembling the piece of furniture is too challenging, you may be able to repair it from the front.

Neatly trim the hole, clearing away any frayed strands or burn marks with a sharp pair of scissors.

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I love indoor plants.I can never say no to another orchid and because friends and family know I love them, I get a new one a few times a year.

If you are like me, hanging a plant from the ceiling wasn’t a consideration until I found I had no more room on my coffee table, windowsill, plant stands or countertops. That’s when it occurred to me that I could just hang a plant anywhere I wanted. Whether in a corner of the living room or centered in front of a window, hanging a plant from the ceiling is simple and all about making sure you’re supporting the weight of the plant.

As soon as you have determined where you want to hang your plant from the ceiling and have purchased hooks with sufficient weight capacity, you can start the installation process.

Vocabulary to Know

Ceiling joists are the horizontal framing members that span your ceiling, supporting materials such as drywall and light fixtures and transferring the weight of the roof and rafters to load bearing walls.

Toggle bolts, toggle anchors, or butterfly anchors are fasteners for hanging objects on hollow walls and ceilings. Toggle bolts have wings that open inside the hollow wall when they are tightened, which allow them to brace against the backside of the drywall or lathe for greater strength.

Swag hooks are Decorative hooks used to hang items from the ceiling, such as plants or pendant lights. The hooks typically include stair bolts for attaching the hook directly to the ceiling joists or toggle bolts to attach it to hollow areas of the ceiling where the joists are not present.

Determine if you are hanging from a stud or anchor

Choose where you want to hang your plant and determine if there is a ceiling joist near that location. A wood ceiling joist is preferred and will give you a hook that is both sturdier and easier to install. If you’re unsure about a stud location, use a stud finder to confirm its exact position.

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I am guilty of having way too many jackets, hats and shoes. When I went looking to purchase a ready-made clothing rack, my options were not very attractive and seemed flimsy. So I then turned down the road of wanting to build a clothing rack. Whenever I go about wanting to make anything, I consider both form and function. Basically, what is it going to look like and what is it going to do?

When designing my own ideal DIY clothing rack, I had important criteria when it comes to function. First, the rack had to be sturdy and strong, with a variety of options for clothes storage. Second, I would like to easily move it around when necessary. And third, I wanted it to look good. These three criteria narrowed down my materials to industrial pipe and wood with a few wheels or casters.

Now to put them all together.

I love the industrial look of plumbing pipe. Plus, not many other choices would make a stronger clothing rack. I started by drawing out what I wanted the rack to look like. That meant deciding exactly how many rods for hanging clothes and shelves for shoes I wanted. As I broke that decision down, it occurred to me: I could make my clothing rack two-sided. That way, when I didn’t want the clothes to show, I could flip it around and just have two shelves showing.

Here is the easy step-by-step process I ended up following. This is a beginner level woodworking project because the only cuts you will need to make are with the 1×2 trim- the plywood sheet you can purchase already cut. This is a perfect place to start for carpentry 101. This project is more about putting the pieces together than crafting intricate angles.

Cutting List

Author’s note: I have given an accurate count of the materials you will need for this specific configuration if you want to change something, be sure to test it before hand.

Assemble the plumbing fittings for the front wall

Before you even begin cutting any wood, I highly suggest you put together all your pipe fittings. Doing this will ensure you have the right couplers in place and allow you to accurately determine the measurements for the support wall (A) and base (B). This will set the course for the rest of the build.

I put together the whole plumbing configuration on a table. That way when it came time to screw it to the base and support wall (A), I simply moved it into place and screwed it in. By doing this first, you can confirm the size you want for the base (B) and the support wall (A) and you’ll have most of the figuring out done right away.

Note: I did not add any adhesive to my threads but you may choose to do so.

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Have you found yourself not turning on your bathroom exhaust fan because it’s too loud? Or maybe it’s too old and just stopped running?

Bathroom fans have come a long way in efficiency, using much less energy than before. Some even claim to be noiseless. Replacing your bathroom fan isn’t complicated. It can be one-afternoon DIY project that doesn’t require extensive experience with drywall or electrical wiring.

By selecting a fan that fits the same dimensions as your old one, you won’t need to cut into the drywall, connect any ductwork in your attic or climb onto the roof to cut a hole for the air to escape.

Safety considerations

Turn off electricity at the main breaker box. Ensure you open your ladder fully and place it on stable ground. Wear safety glasses. And be ready for anything. You might be surprised what comes out of the ceiling when removing a fan that has been in place for years.

What size bathroom fan do I need?

When selecting your new fan, choose one that will fit in the same size hole as your old one. Also ensure the fan generates the appropriate air flow for the size of your bathroom.

Airflow is measured by CFM (cubic feet per minute). Generally, a 50 CFM fan will work for a small bathroom; larger ones need at least 100 CFM.

To calculate CFM for your bathroom, measure the length, width and height of the bathroom. Use this formula: Length times width times height times (.13) = CFM. Round up the result to the nearest ten.

Before you begin, be sure you can fully access the ceiling fan housing.

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A bathroom vanity is probably something you never considered making yourself. Allow me to help you change that perspective.

As I approached this project for a DIY bathroom vanity, I purposely designed it with clean lines and simple joints. Ultimately, I wanted a vanity that would fit well in any bathroom and compliment any style. And it’s really not that difficult to build. The hardest part will be reading a tape measure for exacting measurements.

This vanity strategically hides all hardware so the whole thing looks like it’s floating. Follow my step-by-step instructions and insider tips so you can build this DIY bathroom vanity with confidence.

Project Overview

Cutting List

Overall dimensions: 49-in. W by 23-1/4-in. T by 18-in. D.

* – One long edge ripped at a 45-degree angle.

** – Cut both ends at a 45-degree angle.

Cut wood for top portion of vanity

Using a miter saw or circular, cut wood for the front face (A) and two side panels (B) for the upper part of the vanity. Refer to the Cutting List above.

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Whether you’re a hardcore DIYer or an every-once-in-a-while crafty person, I’ll bet you have a small pile of scrap wood just laying around your workshop. You dont want to throw it away, but you havent come up with the creative inspiration to do something with it.

May I offer the steps for how to build a cool birdhouse? It’s easy, fun and cost effective!

I’ve spent many a weekend morning with my cup of coffee in hand, observing birds at the feeder outside my kitchen window, and come to this conclusion: Birds are beautiful and truly curious creatures. They love to make homes, and we can save them time by providing a ready-made one an easy, entry-level project.

I recently decided to make some birdhouses for my mom. I challenged myself to use what I had in my pile of wood scraps. I offer the same challenge to you, with some helpful hints to make the process more enjoyable. Building a birdhouse and hanging it in your yard is a wonderful way to say “welcome home” to your fine feathered friends.

Teardrop Template

Cutting List

Create a template and transfer to wood

If your birdhouse has a round or more organic shape, you want the front and back face to be the same. Create a template like the one above. Then transfer it onto wood face pieces (A) by tracing over carbon paper, or simply cutting out the template and outlining it with a marker.

Pro tip: Templates dont have to be complicated; there’s no need for a fancy computer illustration application. You’ll be amazed how easy it can be by using the line and shape tools in Microsoft Word.

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