How To Hang and Install a Pegboard

Prep and measure

• Examine the wall where the pegboard will hang. Make sure there are no hooks or any damage that needs repair.

Dan Stout for Family Handyman

• Mark the bottom line of the pegboard.

Dan Stout for Family Handyman

• Mark the stud locations.
  • Use a stud finder or tap the wall to if necessary.

Cut material to size

• Cut the pegboard to size, as needed.
  • Because my pegboard was used, I trimmed off the edges with wear or impact damage.
  • Placing some firm material beneath the pegboard prevents it from bending during the cut. Drywall or plywood works great.

• Use a straightedge to keep your saw on track.
  • I got to this step and reached for a pair of spring clamps, which were handy. However, these didn’t put enough pressure to hold the straightedge in place. So my blade drifted and I had to re-cut, wasting time and material.
  • Learn from my mistake and use some bar clamps. Always choose the right tool for the job!
• Be aware of dust accumulation, which can impact your cuts and your lungs.
  • It can be tempting to skip the dust mask when making a few cuts. Don’t. Pegboards create a lot of fine dust. Protect your lungs with a dust mask or respirator.
  • Dust can quickly accumulate and act as a shim between the saw and the straightedge, causing drift.
  • Clear dust away as you go, with a shop vacuum or manually. Pause the cut and sweep it away.
• Cut the furring strips slightly shorter than the top and bottom lengths of the pegboard.
  • Cut two or three short lengths (two inches or so) as well. These will support the board later.

Dan Stout for Family Handyman

Assemble the pegboard

I find it easiest to mount the furring strips to the back of the pegboard in advance.

• Place the furring strips on the top and bottom of the back side of the pegboad.
  • I like to keep the furring strip edges just shy of the pegboard edge. I find it looks better and allows for hooking objects over the lip.

• Screw the furring strips in place with 3/4-in. wood or drywall screws. Screw into the front side of the pegboard, using the existing holes as a guide as you secure the furring strip in place.
  • One screw every foot or two is enough.

Dan Stout for Family Handyman

Mount the pegboard

This is easiest with a helper, but I’ve shown how to do it solo.

• Mount the piece of scrap wood at the line you marked earlier, which indicates the bottom of the pegboard. Screw it into the studs, if possible.
  • If you’re concerned about leaving a mark, you can get away with double-sided tape, although you’ll have to work fast when securing the pegboard.
  • Or you can cut a piece of scrap long enough to reach from the floor to the bottom mark.

• Balance the bottom support on top of the piece of scrap marking the bottom line.
• With the pegboard balanced on the piece of scrap, mount the pegboard to the wall.
• Using the stud marks you made earlier as guides, secure the board to the studs.
  
• Drill a pilot hole with a 1/8-in. bit, passing through the peg hole, furring strip and into the stud.
  • This will make it easier to set a screw and reduce the risk of splitting the wood.
• Center a two-inch wood or drywall screw on the pilot hole and screw it in place, firmly securing the mounted pegboard to the wall.
  • Pro tip: If you have two drill/drivers, make this step go faster by setting up one with a drill bit and one with a screwdriver bit.

Dan Stout for Family Handyman

Hang your hooks

Finish off your pegboard with a set of hooks.

• Pegboards come with 1/8- or 1/4-in. holes, so purchase corresponding-sized hooks.
  • If you have 1/4-in. hooks and 1/8-in. holes, use a drill bit and a light touch to expand the holes as needed.

Keep in mind there are many types of hooks and holders, allowing you to store a wide range of material on your pegboard.