How To Build DIY Drawer Dividers

Measure the drawer and cut the PVC

I chose 5/16-inch thick exterior PVC siding trim for the drawer organizer. It is textured on one side and smooth on the other.  Since it is made of PVC, your drawer divider can be easily dismantled and cleaned when necessary. Furthermore, this material cuts very easily and cleanly with a router.

Measure the height of your drawer and rip the PVC material so it is at least 1/2-inch shorter than the top of the drawer box.

Measure the length and width of the inside of your drawer.  To start, cut three pieces of the ripped PVC to the length and another three pieces to the width. Once you have determined the layout and size of the compartments you’d like in your drawer, cut more for the rest of the drawer.

Make the Jig

Attach jig sides to front and back

• Using CA glue and 3/4-in. staples, attach the jig sides (B) square to the top of the jig front (A). The gap width between the sides (B) should match the width of your router baseplate. Adjust the front and back (A) length accordingly to accommodate this.
• Attach the jig back (A) square on top of the jig sides (B) using CA glue and staples.

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Attach the PVC spacers

To ensure the router sits balanced when routing, center the two PVC spacers (C) on the underside of each jig side (B) roughly 1/2-inch from the back edge. Make sure to leave enough room between the spacers (C) and the jig front (A) to fit the pieces you’ll rout.

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Attach the indexing spacer

Attaching the PVC index spacer (D) requires some thought and math. It is important to consider the dimensions of your drawer’s interior, the size of the objects you will be placing inside it, and the thickness of the materials you will use to build the divider. I decided that three-inch boxes would be a good size for my grid. To set up the jig for making these cuts repeatedly, I needed to:

• With the router in place between the two side pieces (B) of the jig, mark where the outside edge of the router bit will cut the channel on the jig front (A).
• From this mark, measure over your desired grid spacing and glue the PVC indexing spacer (D) into place using CA glue. Ensure the index spacer (D) is shorter than the half-lap channel will be, and use a square to keep the index space parallel to the channel routed at the top of the jig front (A).

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Build the Drawer Divider

Test the jig

In order to route your half-lap joints, you will need to ensure that your router bit is the correct depth and that the half-lap channel is long enough so that your joints sit flush with one another. To do this:

• Put a scrap piece of 3/4-in. plywood on your bench and a scrap piece of PVC in the jig, butting it up to the jig front (A). Secure the pieces to the workbench with clamps.
• Using a 5/16-in. straight-cut router bit set 5/16-inch deep, route a channel through the front (A) of the jig and into the PVC, stopping just over halfway across the PVC piece.
• Check the channel. It should be just barely through the thickness of the PVC material, and the outside edges should be slightly more than half the width of the PVC. Adjust as necessary.

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Rout the PVC

Moving on to cutting the actual PVC slats for the drawer divider:

• Clamp the PVC piece between the jig and scrap plywood like when testing the jig, except for this time, but the end of it up to the indexing spacer (D).
• Make a pass with the router, again stopping just over halfway across the PVC piece.
• Unclamp everything and move the PVC piece so the routed slot fits snugly into the indexing spacer (D). Clamp the PVC and jig and repeat as many times as needed., moving the freshly cut slot onto the indexing spacer (D) after each cut.  Repeat until you cut from one end of the PVC piece to the other.
• Repeat the process on your other pieces of PVC so the two half-lap joints can fold together. Be sure to rout your channel into the side you ripped on the table saw. This will ensure the clean manufacturer’s edge ends up on top and gives the piece a finished look.

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Assemble the drawer divider

Place your long PVC pieces so that the channels you cut in them face upward, and interlock your shorter pieces so that the channels face downward. Use a mallet if needed to ensure the top edges sit flush. Then, place the entire drawer divider “grid” in your drawer for use.

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FAQ

What is the best material to make a DIY drawer divider out of?

Any material 1/8- to 3/8-inch thick usually works well.  Most will make their drawer divider from inexpensive wood species, even MDF or a plywood. However, the downside of wood is that it needs to be sealed with polyurethane or varnish. Metal and plastics are great because they don’t requie a seal coat, but can be more difficult to machine.

Is there a standard height for a drawer divider?

There is not a standard height for drawer dividers as cabinet drawers have different heights.  The most common depth found in ready-made drawer organizers ranges from 1-1/2-inch to 2-3/4-inch.

How can I prevent a drawer divider from sliding around?

You can prevent a drawer divider from sliding around in several different ways.  Placing a bit of double-sided adhesive on the corners of your drawer divider helps keep it stable. Placing a textured plastic liner in the base of your drawer will also help prevent a drawer divider from sliding around. You may also consider rubber pads under your drawer divider to help keep it stable.