What Is a Space Heater?

A space heater is a portable heating device commonly used to warm smaller, otherwise unheated spaces in a home. Most are electric, but fuel-burning models that use kerosene, propane or natural gas are also available. Space heaters can also serve as supplementary heat sources to warm a specific room without raising the entire home’s temperature.

Are Space Heaters Safe?

Space heaters are a great option for that stubborn corner of your home that just won’t get warm, and “as long as they’re properly used, shouldn’t pose a safety issue,” Moore says. However, space heater safety is a serious business, and if not used correctly, space heaters can be very dangerous.

Dangers Associated With Space Heaters

• Fire hazard: Space heaters placed near flammable materials like curtains or bedding can easily ignite and cause a fire. If a space heater is unattended and tips over, it can also quickly lead to a fire.
• Electric shock risk: Damaged or exposed wires can cause electric shock.
• Carbon monoxide poisoning: Fuel-burning heaters release carbon monoxide, an odorless, poisonous gas and must be used in well-ventilated spaces.
• Burn risk: Space heater surfaces can become extremely hot and cause serious burns if not handled properly.

Tips for Using Space Heaters Safely

Always practice these tips for optimum space heater safety.

Follow the instructions

Your space heater should have a label that shows it was tested in a recognized laboratory. Before using the heater, read and understand the manufacturer’s instructions and warning labels.

Use for supplemental heat only

A space heater is meant to provide supplemental heat only. They should never be used to warm linens, cook food or dry clothing. While they may work to warm up smaller rooms in your home, they are not very energy-efficient appliances.

Make sure your smoke alarms work

“Always check that your smoke and carbon monoxide detectors are operating,” Moore says. This is essential whether you’re using a space heater or not, but given the risk of fire associated with portable, plug-in heaters, it’s an especially critical task.

Check the cord

Check the space heater’s cord for cracks and make sure the plug isn’t broken. When plugging in, make sure the connection is secure. Loose connections are inherently dangerous and can be a fire hazard.

Don’t leave a space heater unattended

When leaving a room, turn the space heater off. Also, turn the heater off when sleeping. “Running a space heater while you’re asleep is the same as leaving it unattended,” Moore says, “I don’t recommend it.” Never let pets or children play too close to the heater to avoid burns and prevent them from accidentally tipping it over.

Keep it out of the way

Keep your space heater in a corner or an area of the room where people aren’t walking so that nobody trips on it. Not only is it dangerous for the person walking, it could result in the heater getting too close to flammable materials.

Plug directly into an outlet

Space heaters draw considerable electric current, which can shock you and overheat extension cords and power strips. “Always plug your space heater directly into an outlet, never an extension cord,” Moore says.

Keep space heaters away from flammable material

Space heaters should be kept at least three feet away from anything that can burn, including rugs, clothing, bedding and paper. They’re best used on a flat, uncovered floor without carpeting. Don’t run the cord under a rug, either.

Look for safety features

An easy way to increase space heater safety is to look for a space heater with built-in safety features like a tip-over switch, overheat sensor and touch sensor. These features can help prevent overheating, which can result in a fire.

FAQ

Can you run a space heater all night?

Unless you are awake all night and in the same room as the space heater, you cannot run it all night. “Nothing happens when you’re watching the heater; it’s always when it’s unattended that bad things happen,” Moore says.

How long can you run a space heater?

Moore recommends reading the manufacturer’s instructions for guidance on how long you can run a particular space heater, as each one is different.

What is the safest spot for a space heater?

The safest spot for a space heater is at least three feet away from any flammable materials in any direction, preferably on an uncarpeted floor in the corner of a room.

About the Expert

• Ryan Moore is Fire Chief for the District No. 2 Fire Department in South Hadley, Massachusetts, where he has served for 18 years.

The post A Guide to Space Heater Safety appeared first on Family Handyman.

If you own your own home, you’ve probably reset a “tripped” breaker at one point or another. I’m a licensed electrician, and when I was in the field, I certainly saw my fair share. Others, like recent graduates moving out on their own or your kid’s sitter, may not have seen a breaker before, tripped or otherwise. This guide’s handy whether you’re looking at a circuit breaker for the first time or an electrical veteran looking for a better way to explain what to do if the breaker trips.

Why Do Breakers Trip?

Circuit breakers trip when there’s too much current (aka “overcurrent“) on the circuit, and it always seems to happen at the worst time: when we’re getting ready in the morning or cooking dinner with no time to spare. Here are three reasons circuit breakers trip.

• Overloads. Overloads happen when too many things running at the same time. Let’s say you have a 20-amp circuit in your garage. It’s winter, so you plug in and turn on a 12-amp space heater, then fire up your 15-amp miter saw. Your breaker trips because that’s 27 amps on a 20-amp breaker (how quickly it trips depends on the “inverse time” characteristics of the breaker). Overloads are solved by unplugging appliances and electrical devices and moving them to different circuits.
• Short circuits. Short circuits happen when the current takes a shortcut back to your electrical panel instead of going to the appliance, lamp, power tool or device (called “loads”). This happens when a hot wire touches the neutral or another hot wire, due to worn insulation, poor connections or other problems. Because there’s no resistance from the load, the current spikes extremely high, and the circuit breaker opens the circuit almost instantaneously.
• Ground faults. Ground faults are a type of short circuit, but they happen when a hot wire touches a part of the circuit that’s not supposed to be energized, like a metal appliance housing. Ground faults are extremely dangerous because electricity always wants to return to its source (the transformer outside, by way of your electrical panel). To get there, it could go through you and the ground you’re standing on. To prevent this, electricians install a deliberate fault path back to the panel, called an equipment grounding conductor.

How To Reset a Tripped Circuit Breaker

Resetting the occasional tripped breaker is no big deal, and ahead, I’ll walk you through it. But, if your breaker trips frequently, or you smell burning, see sparks or are just not sure why the breaker keeps tripping, call a licensed electrician for help. Overloads are much easier to solve than short circuits and ground faults, which may be buried in an unknown electrical box or even inside a wall. If redistributing the loads doesn’t help, you likely have a problem with your wiring.

Find the tripped breaker

Go to your electrical panel and open the front cover only. If you’re (very) lucky, the breakers will be nicely labeled, but in my experience, that’s almost never the case. Even if electrical panels start out nice and neat, it’s likely somewhere along the way that other homeowners or electricians have moved things around but not bothered to update the labels.

So, look for a breaker that’s not in the same position as the other ones. Breakers have three switch positions: On, Off and Tripped. Most of your breakers will be On. Tripped will be the middle position. You can also use some deductive reasoning: a light or receptacle circuit that trips will be a 15-amp or 20-amp single-pole breaker, meaning it has a single hot wire and takes up one spot in your panel. Larger appliances like your air conditioner, electric stove or dryer will be double-pole breakers, which are bigger and less common.

Tandem breakers split a single-pole breaker slot into two 15or 20-amp breakers, with two switches each controlling a separate circuit. They free up space in overcrowded electrical panels, but their use is limited, and they’re less common than typical breakers.

Reset the breaker

Find the tripped breaker? To reset it, first flip it to Off. If you try to move it to the On position first, it will just flop back into tripped mode. Turning it Off resets the mechanism that holds the breaker in the On position. Once it’s Off, flip it to On and see if it holds. (I always stand to one side of the panel and turn my face away as I reset a breaker in case of an unlikely arc flash explosion.)

If the breaker trips immediately, you need to investigate. Try unplugging some things on the same circuit, then reset the breaker again. If the breaker holds, you likely had an overload. Move the things you unplugged to a new circuit. If the breaker keeps tripping or you notice it trips after you plug in a certain appliance, it’s likely a wiring issue. Call an electrician and unplug the appliance that’s causing the problem until it can be serviced.

Reset your appliance clocks if needed, and you’re good to go.

FAQ

Can a circuit breaker reset itself?

No, circuit breakers in your home electrical panel cannot reset themselves. They must be manually reset.

Why won’t my circuit breaker reset?

A circuit breaker that will not reset could indicate a short circuit or ground fault due to loose or damaged wiring or an overload on the circuit. Or the breaker itself could be malfunctioning. If it’s an overloaded circuit, redistribute the loads and try again. Call an electrician if you suspect other problems unless you have experience with electrical work.

How long can you leave a circuit breaker off?

If a breaker trips, it’s best to solve the problem ASAP to minimize disruption. Breakers that aren’t in use are safe to leave off until needed.

The post Reset a Tripped Circuit Breaker in Minutes: A Step-by-Step Guide appeared first on Family Handyman.

It appears to be an affordable solution that’s easy to install. One commenter on the post wrote, “This is what they do in Korea. It doesn’t look great (and it’s not fun not having a window to look through), but it definitely keeps some heat in!”

On its face, it seems like a pretty good, frugal solution. But does bubble wrap as insulation actually work? Here’s what we found out.

Bubble Wrap as Insulation Hack

This hack is pretty simple: just cut a piece of bubble wrap to the size of your window and place the bubble side toward the glass. The person in the above post sprayed it with water, which caused it to stick to the window. You could also use tape to hold it there.

The Glass Doctor recommends using bubble wrap with large bubbles and little space between them.

Beyond insulation, the bubble wrap creates a pleasant soft light and obscures the windows for better privacy. On the downside, it makes it so you can’t see clearly from the window.

Will Bubble Wrap Work as Insulation on Windows?

In theory, yes, bubble wrap works as insulation. Adding airspace should help insulate. According to How To Go Solar, using bubble wrap as insulation improves their efficiency by 50% or more on single-glazed windows and up to 20% on double-glazed ones. Build It Solar also had promising results.

But Randy Huckstadt, an HVAC Expert with JustAnswer.com disagrees. “The problem with this whole concept is that it is not an airtight seal. Therefore, any air or any temperature making it through the window makes it right around the bubble wrap,” he says.

Another potential problem he sees with it is that if it’s freezing outside, spraying water on glass comes with the risk of cracking it, especially “because folks are typically doing this because they have poorly rated or single-pane windows,” he says.

However, others say that they have used this trick, and it does help. It’s a common practice in Korea, for example, where it’s called ‘air cap.’ The Institute for Basic Science in Korea states on its website: “If you want to make your home warmer in winter, you can cover panes of glass with bubble wrap [which] can be applied to glass if you first make the glass moist with water. They go on to recommend repurposing bubble wrap from a move, or from delivery packages.

Others in the Reddit post thread supported this method, too. One wrote, “We do this on some of our windows every year. They are single pane. It definitely helps. You can feel the difference one they’re up. If we’re having guests over we could easily take it down for the day.”

Window Insulation Alternatives

Another relatively affordable option as an alternative to bubble wrap is an insulation kit with an R-value rating for windows. These can typically be found at hardware stores and building centers. Here’s how to install them.

First, make sure your weather stripping is in good shape and check the caulk around the exterior and interior your windows for leaks. For a more permanent solution, try interior storm windows, which are more expensive but should last for decades.

Whatever you choose, remember that it will be far more effective if it makes a seal around the window.

About the Expert

• Randy Huckstadt is an HVAC expert with JustAnswer.com and is an authorized mechanic for Haward Service and Warranty Center.

Sources

• The Korean Institute for Basic Science, “Living in Korea.”
• The Glass Doctor, “DIY Project Insulate Your Windows with Bubble Wrap.”
• How to Go Solar, “The Truth about Bubble Wrap Window Insulation,” October 13, 202.
• Build it Solar, blog from Oct. 24, 2005.

The post Does Bubble Wrap Actually Work as Window Insulation? Here’s the Deal appeared first on Family Handyman.

Of course, the electrician in me now understands, and cares, about energy usage and the effects of humidity on building materials. But does that mean I can’t leave a window open in winter on occasion? Can it ever be a good idea? And does the weather play a role? Ahead, I talked to experts in indoor air quality and heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC), as well as a scientist from the National Weather Service, to find out.

Benefits of Leaving a Window Open in the Winter

Let’s start with the pros. If you’re a little claustrophobic like me, you’ll like this section.

According to Allen Rathey, director of the Indoor Health Council, today’s houses are much more airtight due to higher energy efficiency standards than they were in past decades. That means less air exchange between inside and outside, so opening a window in the winter can offer several benefits.

• Improved air quality: Opening a window can reduce stale air, plus indoor air pollutants like carbon dioxide, vapors from cleaning products and cooking fuel byproducts.
• Humidity control: Dry winter air can do a number on your skin and lungs. “Fresh air can help regulate indoor humidity levels, preventing excessive dryness,” says Brad Roberson, president of Aire Serv heating and air conditioning.
• Odor removal: Even with a range hood or exhaust fan, cooking smells permeate every nook and cranny of your home. If you’ve ever lived over a restaurant, you know what I’m talking about.
• Mental well-being: Darkness at 5 p.m. can be a downer, but opening a window may help. “Some people find fresh air invigorating,” Roberson says, “and it can help improve your mood and overall sense of well-being.”

Cons of Leaving a Window Open in the Winter

The biggest con of leaving a window open in the winter is the loss of heat. When you open a window, your HVAC unit eventually kicks on to replace the conditioned air that escapes. That could reduce the energy efficiency of your unit and raise your energy bill, Roberson says, especially if you leave a window open near the thermostat.

Leaving a window open during the winter also wastes energy, even if you’re not so concerned with your utility bills. Unless your home is completely powered by solar and wind, your HVAC is consuming a dwindling supply of fossil fuels.

Should You Leave a Window Open Year-Round?

“Leaving a window open year-round is generally not advisable,” Roberson says. “In the winter, it’s usually more energy-efficient to keep windows closed to conserve heat, while in the summer, you might want to open windows to ventilate your home.”

But, “if you’re trying to improve indoor air quality, control humidity, or simply enjoy the benefits of fresh air, opening a window occasionally may be helpful,” Roberson says. “The key is to strike a balance, ensuring that it doesn’t lead to excessive heat loss or discomfort. Using a window briefly during milder winter days can help achieve the benefits without causing your HVAC system to work excessively hard.”

Should I Leave My Window Open in the Winter?

It’s up to you, though experts generally advise being judicious. “There is no ‘one-size fits all’ when it comes to our indoor spaces,” Rathey says. Roberson adds: “You can leave a window open in the winter, but it’s important to be selective about when and where.”

Here are some situations that might warrant cracking a window:

• In stuffy or humid rooms: It’s best to keep indoor relative humidity between 30% and 50% to keep mold at bay. “An inexpensive temperature and relative humidity meter can help show impacts from a slightly opened window, and flag you to close it when too much damp/cold air enters,” Rathey says.
• When outdoor air quality is good: Air pollution contains harmful volatile organic compounds (VOCs), dilution of which “may reduce impacts to those with chemical sensitivities, unless the outdoor air is more polluted than inside,” Rathey says. Check your local air quality index at AirNow.gov to make sure.
• On sunny and warm(er) days: Give your HVAC a break by taking advantage of good weather and natural heat from the sun. If you’re sensitive to airborne allergens and dust, ventilating may reduce these contaminants, Rathey says.
• If your windows have locks: “An open window can be an entry point for intruders,” Roberson says, “especially when you’re asleep or not at home.” Rathey says putting sash locks on your windows, allowing them to open just a few inches, can mitigate security concerns.

FAQ

Should you leave windows open during extreme weather?

No. It’s a myth that you should open windows during tornadoes, and Kate Abshire with the National Weather Service (NWS) says that wind and hail from thunderstorms can cause glass to shatter, so it’s best to stay away from windows entirely instead of wasting time trying to open them. In rare cases, lightning can enter older homes through cracks around windows.

Can you leave the window open with a dehumidifier?

It’s not a good idea. Dehumidifiers are intended to remove moisture from confined spaces. Bringing in a continuous supply of fresh air from outside, especially if you live in a humid climate, will cause the dehumidifier to constantly run.

How much does it cost to leave a window open?

It depends on your climate, the size of your home, and the type, size and efficiency of your HVAC system. But, the cost can be significant. As a rough example, let’s say you have a 3-ton unit that uses 3,000 watts (3 kilowatts) per hour. Using the October 2024 national average cost for electricity ($0.177 per kilowatt-hour), if your HVAC kicked on just one extra hour a day, your electricity bill would rise approximately $200 per year.

About the Experts

• Kate Abshire is the acting NWS Severe Weather Program Manager in the Severe, Fire, Public, and Winter Weather Services Branch of the National Oceanographic and Atmospheric (NOAA)/National Weather Service.
• Allen Rathey is the director of the Indoor Health Council, a consortium of cleaning professionals and health experts dedicated to healthy indoor spaces. Rathey was previously the president of the Housekeeping Channel, The Healthy House Institute and the Healthy Facilities Institute.
• Brad Roberson is a heating, ventilation and air conditioning expert and the president of Aire Serv, a trusted name in the field of heating and air conditioning installation, maintenance, and repair with more than 200 locations across the United States and Canada.

Sources

• AirNow.gov: “U.S. Air Quality Index”
• Energy.gov: “Estimating Appliance and Home Electronic Energy Use”
• Environmental Protection Agency: “Care for Your Air: A Guide to Indoor Air Quality”
• U.S Bureau of Labor Statistics: “Average Energy Prices for the United States, Regions, Census Divisions, and Selected Metropolitan Areas”

The post Should You Leave a Window Open in the Winter? All the Pros and Cons appeared first on Family Handyman.

With a national average of $3,500 to install a new water heater, taking the time to maintain yours is well worth the effort. Keep reading to learn why flushing your water heater is so important and what happens if you don’t with tips from Michelle Law of Blue Frog Plumbing and Drain.

What Does Flushing Your Water Heater Do?

The primary purpose of flushing your water heater is to remove any sediment or mineral buildup that has accumulated over time. Most of the impurities in the water are collected by the anode rod, a metal rod inside the tank, to spare the water heater from corrosion. However, “some sediment still makes its way to the bottom of the tank, and flushing it clears the rest out,” Law says.

What Happens If You Don’t Flush Your Water Heater?

Neglecting to flush your water heater regularly can lead to sediment and sludge buildup at the bottom of the tank. This TikTok video by @plumbersplunger shows just how much debris can accumulate in an unflushed water heater, which can cause the tank to corrode, leak and fail prematurely. “The debris will actually begin to eat away at the tank,” Law says.

@theplumbersplunger Cutting open a water heater tank to see what is on the inside. Talking about water filtration and how to find out what is in your water. #plumbing #water #fyp original sound – The Plumbers Plunger

Sediment can also coat the heating element, reducing its efficiency and potentially causing it to overheat. Law notes that this issue may not occur with all water heaters and will depend on how the heating element is designed.

Law also points out that if you’ve never flushed your water heateror haven’t done so in the last two yearsnow may not be the best time to start.

“The sediment has been sitting at the bottom of the tank, helping to seal any corrosion or small holes,” she explains. “Disturbing it can dislodge that buildup, potentially causing leaks.”

Can Not Flushing Your Water Heater Be Dangerous?

While neglecting to flush your water heater can cause problems, it’s not dangerous. Law points out that if it were, most of us would be in trouble. “The reality is, most people don’t flush their water heater. It’s just one of those maintenance tasks that doesn’t get done,” she says.

Other Important Water Heater Maintenance

Perform these tasks annually:

• Check the temperature setting: It should be between 120 and 130 degrees to prevent scalding and improve efficiency.
• Look for leaks: Check the floor around the water heater for any wet areas or puddles.

Consider having these maintenance tasks performed by a pro:

• Inspect the anode rod: “The anode rod is the sacrificial element in a water heater,” Law says, “It will corrode and needs to be replaced periodically.”
• Check the venting system: Gas water heaters produce carbon monoxide, a dangerous gas that must be properly vented to the outside. Regularly inspect that the vent pipe remains clear and unobstructed.
• Test the pressure valve: This pressure relief valve can become clogged or stuck over time. Check it regularly to ensure it opens when needed.

About the Expert

• Michelle Law is an apprentice plumber at Blue Frog Plumbing and Drain, a full-service residential and commercial plumbing company in Springfield, Massachusetts.

Source

USA Today: How Much Does Water Heater Installation Cost? 2024 Guide. (2024)

The post The Gross Truth About What Builds Up in Your Neglected Water Heater appeared first on Family Handyman.

HVAC technician WG Hickman explains: “A male-to-male cord has exposed prongs on both ends, meaning one end would always be “live” when plugged in, posing serious shock and fire risks.” In other words, such a cord is a serious fire and electrocution risk.

Here’s why electricians call this type of extension cord a “suicide cord.”

Are Male-to-Male Electrical Cords Made?

Unfortunately, they are. You can buy one on Amazon (I checked) and at other online retail sites. You’re not as likely to find one at a brick-and-mortar hardware store, but it’s possible.

A better question is whether they should be available, and Hickman’s answer is that they shouldn’t: “A male-to-male cord has exposed prongs on both ends, meaning one end would always be ‘live’ when plugged in, posing serious shock and fire risks. These cords create a high chance of accidental electrocution and can overload circuits, as there’s no grounding or control over the power flow.”

This isn’t controversial. According to Hassett Hardware’s website, when customers ask if they stock male-to-male extension cords, the answer is a resounding “No” and that no one else should either. Even though they might be available online, “we implore you, please don’t use one,” the website states.

Are Male-to-Male Cords Dangerous?

If you’ve read this far, you already know the answer. Still, just to reiterate, Hickman says: “This ‘suicide cord’ method is illegal and dangerous, risking damage to home circuits, injury to utility workers, and even fires.” There’s no danger if both ends are securely plugged in, but what happens if someone trips on a cord, pulling out the live male end? Or someone forgets to plug that end in? It wouldn’t be the first case of human error causing a fire or injury, but in this case, the danger is preventable by not using the cord in the first place.

If you use such a cord outdoors, you wouldn’t even have to touch the live prongs to get shocked. If it’s raining, water on the ground or wet leaves can conduct electricity and shock someone far from the cord. Not to mention that animals and children could touch the prongs, not knowing what they are, and suffer shock or possible electrocution.

Are There Alternatives to Male-to-Male Electrical Cords?

Yes. Portable power stations can offer a safe and flexible way to get power without complex wiring or dangerous cords, says Hickman. They’re ideal for temporary setups, especially in areas without permanent outlets. If you’re looking for a way to get power to your Christmas lights and don’t have a power station, you’re better off restringing the lights to get the male end of the string closer to the receptacle than using an illegal cord.

A common reason for using a male-to-male cord is to provide emergency power from a generator. You plug one end into the generator and the other end into a wall outlet. This can provide power to the whole house, but it isn’t a safe or legal way to do it because, besides using a dangerous cord, you’re back-feeding power to the grid, which could injure a linesman working to restore power.

The safe way and legal way to power your house from a standby generator is to install a transfer switch. “It will route power to essential circuits without creating hazardous connections,” advises Hickman. “It will prevent back feeding into the grid, which can be deadly to utility workers and others.”

About the Expert

• WG Hickman founded Mississippi-based Tri-County Air Service in 2005 and currently owns and operates the business.

Sources

• Hassett Hardware: Can You Buy Double Male Extension Cords? And Why You Should Never Use Them; 2024.

The post Why Male-to-Male Extension Cords Are Rare and Dangerous appeared first on Family Handyman.

We’ve parsed the United States Consumer Product Safety Commission (USCPSC) brief about the recall to bring you the details. We’ve also gathered instructions for what to do if you own one of the affected devices. Read on to learn how to keep yourself and your loved ones safe during the cold months.

Which Space Heaters Are Recalled?

As of Nov. 7, 2024, over 512,000 GoveeLife and Govee smart electric space heaters have been recalled in the United States. An additional 48,000 in Canada are also included. Recalled unit numbers include H7130 (including the H7130101 variation), H7131, H7132, H7133, H7134, and H7135. These heaters are black and white. They vary in height from nine inches to 26 inches, depending on which model you purchased.

According to the USCPSC, retailers selling these heaters include Amazon, Govee and TikTok Shop. They were available from September 2021 through September 2024 and sold for between $30 and $150.

Why Are These Space Heaters Being Recalled?

The impacted devices pose a fire hazard as they have dangerous overheating issues, which can lead to burns and small fires. So far, there are 113 reports of these space heaters overheating, including seven fires and one minor burn. The USCPSC brief expands on this, saying, “Testing determined the smart electric space heaters do not comply with the voluntary industry safety standard, UL 1278, posing an overheating and fire risk from wireless control features.”

What Do I Do if I Own One of These Space Heaters?

If you have one of the space heaters included in the recall, you must contact the manufacturer. If you submit your information correctly, you’ll receive a refund. The USCPSC brief says to “unplug the electric space heater, cut the power cord, and send an image of the destroyed electric space heater, the manufacturers label and SN Code on the bottom or side of the unit to GoveeLife or Govee through the link https://recall.goveelife.com/heater-recall.”

Source

GoveeLife and Govee Smart Electric Space Heaters Recalled Due to Fire and Burn Hazards; Imported by Govee, United States Consumer Product Safety Commission, 2024

The post 500,000 Space Heaters Recalled Over Fire Risk – Is Yours Affected? appeared first on Family Handyman.

As winter approaches, a heating hack is making its way around the internet, promising to increase the temperature in rooms warmed by a radiator. Whether or not it works is another story let’s take a look.

The Tin Foil Radiator Hack

The hack as seen on TikTok, in the Irish Sun and many other places online is straightforward: wrap an old piece of cardboard in tinfoil and place it between your radiator and the wall. The idea is that the tin foil will bounce heat back into the room that otherwise would have escaped out through the poorly insulated wall.

Does the tinfoil radiator hack work?

The science behind the hack is sound, at least in theory. Tin foil is made to reflect heat it doesn’t conduct or absorb heat. By positioning a large sheet of foil directly behind a radiator, you’re certainly going to reflect at least some heat back into the room.

The question is really whether the tin foil will make a noticeable difference in the room’s temperature. That will depend on the room. This tin foil hack might be able to significantly raise the temperature in a small room, but probably wouldn’t make a substantial difference in a larger, more open room.

Is This Tin Foil Radiator Hack Dangerous?

Anytime a DIYer comes across a home hack online especially one that involves a potential fire hazard they should ask one question immediately: is this a safety risk? Placing tin foil and cardboard behind a radiator is not inherently dangerous. After a couple of winters, though, the tin foil will start to oxidize, which could cause trouble.

The post Fact or Fiction: Will Tin Foil Behind the Radiator Warm Up Your Space? appeared first on Family Handyman.

As a landlord, one of my more frequent calls from tenants involves low faucet water pressure. Thankfully, this is an easy fix that I can manage quickly. Unfortunately, not all causes of low water pressure are so simple. Read on to learn why your water pressure may be low as well as possible DIY fixes with tips from licensed plumber Liam Hogan.

Reasons Your Water Pressure May Be Low

Possible causes for low water pressure range from mundane to serious.

Obstructed Pipes

Over time, plumbing pipes can become clogged by debris, mineral build-up or corrosion. As the pipes narrow, water can’t move as quickly through them, resulting in lower water pressure. “This is especially true if you have hard water or galvanized pipes,” Hogan says. The best fix for this issue is to call a plumber to diagnose and replace any obstructed pipes.

Leaks in the Plumbing System

If there’s a leak in a water supply pipe, you may experience lower water pressure throughout the home. The break in the line allows water, but also pressure, to escape from the plumbing system. “There can be an obvious leak gushing water into your basement or a subtle, small leak under a bathroom sink,” Hogan says. Do some investigating, checking around all plumbing fixtures for damp areas, puddles or the sound of dripping or hissing water.

Faulty Pressure Regulator

If your home is equipped with a pressure regulator, and you’re experiencing low water pressure, a faulty unit may be to blame. Check that the regulator is set to 45 to 60 psi, a typical residential pressure setting. If it’s set lower than this, adjust the pressure accordingly. If this still doesn’t fix the problem, a broken regulator may be at fault. Call a licensed plumber to install a new one.

Undersized pipes

Pipes that are too small for the water supply demands of your home can cause water pressure to be less than desirable. Usually, water is supplied into the house in 3/4 to 1-in. pipes, then distributed through 1/2-in. branch pipes. If the main supply pipe is too small, this will reduce the water volume, which also reduces the pressure. This issue is exacerbated if plumbing demands increase due to an addition or new bathroom and the pipes are not resized.

Partially Closed Shutoff Valve

If your low water pressure is limited to one fixture, the shut-off valve may have become partially closed. Check the valve and make sure it is completely open. Also check the shut-off valve at the main plumbing line into the home. This is usually found in the basement, near the street. “If the main line valve is partially closed it will impact the water pressure all through the home,” Hogan says.

Water Supply Issues

Occasionally, your municipal water supplier is experiencing water supply issues themselves. If you check with your neighbors, and they have low water pressure as well, this may be the cause. Contact your water supplier to report the issue and receive any updates as they work to fix it. It is also possible that your city or town has changed their water regulations, maybe due to drought conditions, and the water supplier is only complying with the new rules. In this case, consider using high-pressure fixtures for higher water pressure.

Clogged or Faulty Fixtures

Sediment and debris in pipes can accumulate within fixtures, which will lower water pressure. Faucet aerators are especially susceptible to this issue, but are easy to fix. Unscrew the faucet end where the water exits and remove the small screen inside — this is the aerator. Gently clean it with soap and water, then replace it and tighten the faucet end.

In the shower, sediment can clog the shower cartridge. “If this is the case, it’s best to have a new one installed,” Hogan says.

FAQ

Is low water pressure dangerous?

It can be, depending on the reason your water pressure is low. If the cause is a leak somewhere in your plumbing system, you’ll want to catch this quickly before it causes major water damage. Even a minor leak can lead to property damage and mold growth.

What does it mean if my water pressure gets low suddenly?

If the water pressure drops suddenly throughout the house, this is most likely an issue with the pressure regulator, a clog in the main supply pipe or a water supply issue.

What does it mean if only my hot water pressure is low?

A partially closed hot water shut off valve is probably the cause. Check to make sure it is fully open. Other causes could be a faulty tempering valve that mixes hot and cold water within the fixture or an issue with your hot water delivery system. “You may need to have the hot water heater flushed to remove sediment build up,” Hogan says.

About the Expert

Liam Hogan owns Hogan Mechanical Incorporated in Agawam, Massachusetts. He holds a journeyman plumbing license and has five years of experience.

The post 7 Reasons Your Water Pressure Is Low appeared first on Family Handyman.

Below, Lozano and I walk you through some common issues that you may run into when working on your own home. It’s not an exhaustive list! The NEC updates every three years, so verify with your local electrical inspector which code cycle your jurisdiction follows. Requirements apply to new construction and repairs, so you don’t have to rush out and fix everything. As always, call a licensed electrician if you need help.

Mislabeled Breakers

The NEC requires that circuit breakers be legibly marked so you know exactly what they do. Well, I don’t know about you, but I’ve never lived in a house where the breakers were labeled right. That’s a problem if you’re doing DIY electrical work or if you need to shut off a circuit quickly when there’s a problem.

Lozano says the easiest way to fix a poorly labeled breaker box is to ask a friend or family member to switch each breaker off one by one. When the lights or power go off in the room, you know what the breaker controls. (If you’re by yourself, you can use a radio, circuit tracer or receptacle tester.)

Label each breaker, or make a panel schedule and post it inside or adjacent to the door.

No Ground Fault Protection

If you’ve sold or bought a house or upgraded your kitchen, bathroom or garage, you’ve probably had an inspector flag a missing ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI), especially if your home is older. GFCIs protect you from electric shock, and they’re required in multiple places around your home where water is present.

Because GFCI requirements have expanded over time, many homes lack them, where the NEC currently requires them. To get your circuits up to code, there’s no need to install a GFCI in every outlet. Install one GFCI in the first outlet after the panel, and daisy chain the rest (these can be regular grounding-type receptacles). Or, put in a GFCI breaker.

• Pro tip: If your bathroom receptacles go out, and you can’t figure out why, look for a GFCI in another bathroom. The NEC allows bathrooms to be wired together, and because one GFCI receptacle can protect an entire circuit, you probably have one upstairs that’s tripped.

No Dedicated Circuit

Your kitchen sure would feel roomier if you ditched that countertop microwave and installed one over the stove, right? If you DIY the installation, resist the urge to tap off an existing circuit. Make sure you run a dedicated circuit, also called an individual branch circuit.

A built-in microwave/range hood combo, or any appliance “fixed in place” that shares a circuit with lights or countertop receptacles, must use less than 50% of the branch circuit rating, which in your kitchen is 20 amps. Even if you purchased a smaller over-the-range microwave, you’re cutting it close by staying under 10 amps.

Plus, if you plan to plug in your new microwave instead of hard-wiring it, the NEC requires a dedicated circuit, no matter the amp draw. Finally, over-the-range microwave manufacturers nearly always require dedicated circuits, and the NEC says you have to follow the listing and labeling instructions provided by the manufacturer.

Overloading Circuits

Let’s say you don’t want the hassle of DIYing a range hood. You’d rather free up space by putting your new microwave in a cabinet under the counter. Can you feed a new cabinet receptacle from the countertop receptacle directly above? Nope.

Kitchens (including adjoining areas like pantries and dining rooms) have two 20-amp small appliance branch circuits that supply your countertops, wall and floor receptacles and fridge (although many people put fridges on their own circuit). Everyone’s kitchen is different, so the NEC wants these small appliance circuits reserved for toasters, air fryers, coffee makers and other small portable countertop appliances.

Adding a new receptacle in a cabinet adds a permanently plugged-in load that could potentially overload your circuit.

Open Junction Boxes or No Box at All

Lozano sees these a lot. Junction boxes must be covered, and you can’t have splices made outside of a junction box. I once found several splices just dangling in a wall cavity, which I remedied by adding a box before the device I was installing.

The next house I moved to had open boxes in the attic. The splices were fine, so I added “blanks,” which are covers that don’t have any openings. If you’re doing a DIY project and come across any open junction boxes, you can do the same to bring them up to NEC safety requirements.

Permanent Extension Cords

When you work on a project in your garage, are you constantly stepping over multiple extension cords? Have they been there longer than you can remember? The NEC doesn’t allow extension cords to be used as a substitute for permanent wiring, so for your next DIY project, why not put in some new surface-mounted receptacles?

If you do add receptacles in your garage, consider the loads you’ll be using. New garages must have one 20-amp circuit, with one receptacle in each vehicle bay not more than 5 1/2 feet off the floor. Additional circuits can be 15 amps or greater.

Wrong Outdoor Receptacle Covers

Newly constructed homes must have two outdoor receptacles for plugging in lawn tools, holiday lights, and other electrical needs. (You may just have one, or even zero if your home is old enough.) These outdoor receptacles could be in “wet locations,” where they’re subject to weather or water intrusion, or “damp locations,” such as under porches and eaves.

The NEC requires that receptacles in damp locations be weatherproof when nothing is plugged in and that the receptacle covers be closed. In wet locations, the receptacle must be weatherproof even when the plug is inserted. Wet location covers are called “bubble covers” or “in-use” covers, and you can use them in damp locations, too.

When I moved into my home, I noticed the deck above did nothing to stop rain from dripping on the lower porch receptacle. So, I added in-use, weatherproof covers, and it’s an easy DIY project for you, too. “Weatherproof receptacle covers will go a long way in prolonging the life of the receptacle installation,” Lozano says.

Inaccessible GFCIs

“Installing GFCIs in a location that is hard to find or access can create headaches for homeowners and electricians alike,” Lozano says. A great example of this is behind a refrigerator. The NEC requires kitchen and garage receptacles to be GFCI-protected, but it’s very hard to move a fridge if the GFCI trips.

That’s why the NEC requires GFCIs to be installed in a readily accessible location. No climbing up ladders, no fumbling for a key, no moving something heavy. A great way to get around difficult placement, like a garage door opener on your ceiling, is to install a breaker or use one GFCI to feed other receptacles. “A tripped GFCI can affect a whole circuit, creating a real issue,” Lozano says.

No Neutral at Switch

Most switches don’t require a neutral to operate, so for decades, the NEC didn’t require electricians or homeowners to bring a neutral to switch boxes. But, today’s smart switches and dimmers have electronics, and most of them do need the neutral. The NEC now requires neutrals at switch boxes, or there must be a way to easily pull one later (like through a pipe).

But most homes aren’t piped with conduit. So if you’re DIYing an addition, it’s best to just bring one now, even if you don’t use it. If you’re adding smart switches to your older home, look for ones that don’t require a neutral (they do exist).

Improperly Replacing Non-Grounding Receptacles

I used to live in a very old house with knob-and-tube wiring. Knob-and-tube has two wires: hot and neutral. (No “ground wire,” more accurately called an equipment grounding conductor (EGC).) A previous homeowner got sick of having nowhere to plug in a three-prong plug and swapped out the two-slot, non-grounding type receptacles for three-slot, grounding-type ones.

That was a code violation. I had three ways to fix it:

1. Pull an ECG from the service panel to every outlet in the house. This is the best but most expensive option.
2. Put the non-grounding receptacles back. This is the cheapest, but I’d still have the three-prong problem.
3. Put in a GFCI, which would provide shock protection, accept a three-prong plug and be code-compliant. This is what I chose.

If you put in GFCIs like I did, the NEC requires that you label the front of the receptacle: “No Equipment Ground.” (Stickers come with the GFCI.) If you use one GFCI to control other grounding-type receptacles on the same circuit, label these “No Equipment Ground” and “GFCI Protected.”

Not Installing Tamper-Resistant Receptacles

Tamper-resistant receptacles are required everywhere in your house to keep kids from sticking things in the slots. You don’t have to run out and replace them if you don’t have them, but if you’re adding a new room or swapping out an old receptacle, make sure you buy tamper-resistant ones. (One exception is if you happen to be replacing a two-slot, non-grounding receptacle with another of the same type.)

Overfilling Electrical Boxes

The NEC has specific box fill requirements for junction boxes to minimize heat buildup. If you open a box during a DIY project and discover a packed box, put in a bigger one. “Wire nuts and connections can come loose when trying to fit everything inside of the box,” Lozano says, and if you’re using a metal box, “[wire] insulation can become damaged and leave wiring exposed.” That’s a fire waiting to happen.

Leaving Christmas Lights Up Too Long

Are you a Clark Griswold when it comes to Christmas lights? DIY holiday displays are becoming more and more common, with lights, sound and inflatables popping up way before Thanksgiving. Some people even extend that holiday spirit into a year-round affair, with Valentine’s, Halloween and Fourth of July decorations in every imaginable color and design.

Be aware that the NEC has a 90-day limit on “temporary installations” of holiday lights. Typical big-box lights aren’t made to withstand the elements forever. If you plan to light up your yard 365 days a year, invest in permanent lights that are listed for this purpose.

About the Expert

Chris Lozano is a master electrician and virtual electrical expert at Frontdoor, a home services app that connects you to on-staff, qualified experts to help you solve your home maintenance issues. It’s like telehealth for your home.

The post The Most Common National Electric Code Violations DIYers Run Into appeared first on Family Handyman.

Before heat pumps came on the scene, however, homes tended to have central air conditioners, which are basically heat pumps that can only transfer heat in one direction from inside the house to outside. Many homes still have these units, and since they aren’t in service during the winter, there’s a reasonable question about whether you should cover the compressor in the winter.

We asked HVAC pros from around the country for their opinions, and as you might expect, those in the south were less enthusiastic about covering the compressor in winter than those in the north. Sustainability expert Mike Naughton summed it up like this: “Whether or not you should cover your AC unit depends on your specific climate and property. If you live further up North, where it’s prone to heavier snowfall, it would be a good idea to protect your unit with a covering.”

If you do decide to cover your AC compressor unit in winter, what’s the best way to do it? Our experts weighed in.

What Is an AC Compressor?

An AC compressor is basically an oversized version of the compressor in your refrigerator. It’s a pump that pressurizes a liquid refrigerant inside a condenser coil system. The pressurized refrigerant turns into a gas as it sprays through a valve into a separate set of evaporator coils in the house, which is a process that essentially sucks heat out of the indoor air. The compressor exhausts the heat outdoors as it re-pressurizes the gas to turn it back into a liquid.

The compressor and condenser coils are usually contained in a protective metal housing located somewhere just outside the building. The housing has a network of fins to allow hot air from the compressor to dissipate, and these fins can expose the compressor to snow, moist air and yard debris.

Do You Need to Cover Your AC Compressor?

As Naughton pointed out, whether you need to cover your AC compressor depends on where you live. Glenn Wiseman is a sales rep at an HVAC and Home Services firm in Ottawa, Ontario which is definitely in a northern climate and he said: “If your HVAC unit has an outdoor component, it is best to cover it during snow storms. If any ice or snow builds up on the system, remove it immediately to help restore airflow and prevent rust from forming.”

On the other hand, Aaron Traub, an HVAC pro who services the New Orleans area, said: “You don’t always need to cover your outdoor AC unit during winter. Most modern AC units are built to handle the elements.”

HVAC service pro WG Hickman, who lives in Mississippi, added that “covering the outdoor AC unit can even do more harm than good, as covers prevent proper airflow and trap moisture, leading to rust and mold growth.”

If you do cover your AC unit, the best time to do it is in the fall. However, Mark Woodruff, a product manager at Trane Residential, gave this warning: “There are challenges for some of the warmer areas of the country, which may still periodically need cooling during the fall. Homeowners may turn on the AC and forget the cover is on, and that can hurt the air conditioning system.” In other words, prevent damage by remembering to remove the cover before turning on your AC unit.

What’s the Best Way to Cover Your AC Unit?

Tarp? Fabric cover? Plywood? There’s more to consider when making your choice of the way to cover your AC unit than you might have guessed.

For starters, none of the experts consulted for this story recommended covering an AC compressor unit with a tarp. “That can do more harm than good,” said Houston-based HVAC expert David Lewis. “[It could trap] moisture inside, which can lead to rust and mold.” You need a breathable cover, and the best option, according to Woodruff, is an original equipment manufacturer (OEM) cover fitted to the unit and made of quality materials. “Look for unit covers with ventilation flaps or mesh panels to allow for proper air circulation and avoid the risk of mold,” advises Naughton.

“Placing a piece of plywood on top of the unit can help protect it from falling ice or heavy snow,” said Traub. “But I’d be sure to clear it off as needed.” Many experts were in favor of covering the AC unit with plywood, and in many parts of the country, that’s all you need. Place a piece of plywood on top of the housing that is large enough to cover it and secure it with bricks.

Woodruff pointed out, however, that a plywood cover is inadequate in cold climates where salt is used on the roads. “Salt is corrosive and will cause rust, and so keeping salt off of the unit is generally a good thing.” That’s one more point in favor of a fabric cover, but he also notes another point against it: “A cover provides a wonderful warm spot for mice and other critters to live, and they often like to chew on wires and create other issues.”

Winter Maintenance for AC Units

“Whether or not you choose to cover your A/C unit this winter,” said Naughton, “make sure to clear the surrounding area of dirt, debris, twigs, leaves, and animal nests. While most A/C units are built to withstand weather conditions, a build-up of debris can severely impact its efficiency and performance.”

Hickman added: “And here’s an additional tip: Before winter hits, apply a coil-safe anti-corrosion spray to the AC coils to protect them against rust and moisture. Just make sure to use one specifically designed for HVAC systems. If your area gets a lot of snow, elevate the unit slightly by placing it on bricks or pavers, which helps prevent moisture buildup around the base when snow is melting.”

About the Experts

• Mike Naughton is the founder and CEO of Cleveland-based energy brokerage firm Integrity Energy. He has over 14 years of experience in the energy industry.
• Glenn Wiseman RASDT, RHDT is an experienced HVAC technician and the sales manager at Ottawa-based Top Hat Home Comfort Services.
• Aaron Traub grew up around the HVAC industry. He currently owns Benny’s A/C & Heating in Metairie, LA.
• WG Hickman founded Mississippi-based Tri-County Air Services in 2005.
• Mark Woodruff is Senior Product Manager at Trane Residential.
• David Lewis is a seasoned professional in the field of HVAC, plumbing and home services. He is the owner of Mission AC in Houston, TX.

The post Should You Cover Your Air Conditioner Condenser In the Winter? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Is it truly worth the hype? I tested the Ninesky Dehumidifier in my house for a month in the swampy North Carolina summer to see how it compares to the competition. I’ve tested and used more than a dozen humidity-controlling devices, so I’ll be able to tell you how it compares and whether you should spend your money on it.

What is the Ninesky Dehumidifier?

The Ninesky Dehumidifier is made by Ninesky Goods, a company that claims to have more than 50 years of experience dehumidifier industry. More on that in a second.

There are three models: a 30-ounce, an 85-ounce and an 88-ounce dehumidifier. We’ll be looking at the 85-ounce version, which comes with “ultra-quiet” technology, LED mood lighting, an auto shut-off feature and two fan speed modes.

I’ll be honest: This is not a legitimate company. For one, there’s no proof of them being in business for 50 years anywhere onlineno news articles, no Wikipedia page and no links other than to commerce sites like Amazon. Their website has no “About Us” or “History” page, and their customer testimonials use pictures that are clearly created by artificial intelligence (AI) and can be easily found on other sites that use the same template as NineSky’s.

Their website also mentions their “durable linens,” but they don’t sell anything with linens under the NineSky brand name.

Furthermore, the company is inconsistent in its marketing. On the website and Amazon headline, the dehumidifier is advertised as having an 85-ounce water tank, yet the box and Amazon product specs say it has a 95-ounce tank. This type of discrepancy can be found with their other models, too. It’s possible they updated the models and forgot to change some of the specs, but as you’ll see in a bit, there’s no clear way of knowing which number is correct.

That said, Amazon is filled with these types of unknown brands, and products from such brands often perform well. So, we thought it was still worth reviewing–at the very least, to make sure our readers know that they’re buying from a questionable brand should they choose to go with the NineSky dehumidifier.

Psst: Our Frigidaire Dehumidifier review is based on a product from a company with a proven track record.

Ninesky Dehumidifier Features

85-ounce water tank

Alright, let’s talk about the Ninesky Dehumidifier’s water tank capacity. The company claims it can remove excess moisture from spaces up to 800 square feet and has an 85-ounce water tank, making it a good choice for small aartments or RVs.

As I stated above, the box and other parts of Amazon say the water tank is 95 ounces. So, which is it?

I’m not sure. There are no markings on the water tank. I conducted an unofficial test by emptying the tank into a bowl set on a scale to see what it would weigh. Note: One fluid ounce is roughly one ounce in weight, but that number can change based on many factors, so this is a very, very unscientific test. I also don’t have a measuring cup or bowl that goes up to 85 or 95 ounces, so this is the best I could do.

Either way, I got nowhere near 85 or 95 ounces on the scale. The closest I got was around 65-75 ounces, but again, that shouldn’t be taken as a hard-and-true fact.

Don’t get me wrong. This thing works, and there’s a clear difference in the air when I have it on compared to when it’s off. I just question the accuracy of this company’s claims.

Need to rid your room of dust and other airborne particles? We recommend checking out the NuWave OxyPure Air Purifier or Blueair Air Purifier.

Quiet Operation

The Ninesky Dehumidifier advertises itself as “ultra-quiet,” yet I’m typing this review with it in the same room as the machine, and I can definitely hear it. It’s not loud, but it kind of sounds like a laptop or gaming console fan that’s been running for a while. I’ve definitely used quieter dehumidifiers.

There is a night mode that drops the fan speed to a lower setting that’s supposed to be quieter, though I don’t notice a difference.

Auto Shut-off

The Ninesky Dehumidifier’s auto shut-off function works as advertised. The company says it removes up to 34 ounces of water per day, and I found it took about a day and a half to two days (depending on the humidity) for it to get full. There are some dehumidifiers out there that fail to shut off when full, which results in spills, but that’s not an issue here. I would’ve liked to see a drainage hose option for people who want to run it continuously, but on the bright side, it’s easy to remove the tank and empty it when needed.

If you need a continuously running dehumidifier but don’t have the budget for one, check out our guide to creating a DIY self-draining dehumidifier.

LED Mood Lighting

Here’s another honest take: I don’t like LED mood lighting on any dehumidifier, so I’m not going to knock the Ninesky Dehumidifier too much for having it. I personally don’t see the point of having it, as they’re never bright enough to really make a difference.

If that is your cup of tea, you’ll have seven colors to choose from that can rotate or be set to one color. The dehumidifier’s black shell helps the colors pop more than white dehumidifiers.

How We Tested It

As Family Handyman‘s resident dehumidifier tester and expert, I’ve used more than a dozen small, rechargeable and crawl space dehumidifiers to combat the humid North Carolina weather.

I placed the Ninesky Dehumidifier in my office since that room gets humid very quickly compared to other parts of the house. I took note of how it sounded, how quickly it drew water from the air, the ease of use and whether any issues came up during my testing.

Pros

• Affordable
• Compact
• Lightweight
• Two-speed operation
• LED mood lighting
• Easy-to-remove water tank

Cons

• Not as quiet as advertised
• Tank capacity is unclear

FAQ

Why is the power light blinking on my Ninesky dehumidifier?

The power light on your Ninesky dehumidifier could be due to a power or fan issue. If your power is fine, the fan might require maintenance or be close to failure.

Should I keep my Ninesky dehumidifier on all night?

Yes, if you live in a particularly humid area, you can keep your Ninesky dehumidifier all night. I didn’t think it was the quietest dehumidifier, though it should be fine if placed on the opposite side of a bedroom.

What Other Reviewers and Experts Had to Say

As of this writing, the Ninesky Dehumidifier with an 85-ounce water tank has an average rating of 4.3 on Amazon, with almost 1,100 of the 1,468 reviews being five-star ratings.

“This has been on all day in my room and I am very happy with what I see,” writes five-star Amazon reviewer Krista. “I love that it’s as easy as just plugging in and seeing it do its work. I’m very happy with this for the price that I paid.”

Other reviewers were less than impressed with its functionality. “It will not even dent the humidity of a room,” writes one-star Amazon reviewer Rando. “I bought it hoping it would at least moderate the humidity in a 200 sq. ft. bedroom, and it has practically no effect. Don’t waste your time and money, buy something bigger and more powerful that will actually do the job.”

Ninesky Dehumidifier vs GE Dehumidifier

The DE Dehumidifier costs about four times as much as the Ninesky Dehumidifier, so is it worththe money? The answer, as always, is it depends. If you’re in a larger living space or need abasement dehumidifier, opt for the GE since it’s rated for up to 4,500 square feet and has a 50-pint container.

The GE Dehumidifier also has a continuous drain option. While it’s not as lightweight as the Ninesky, it has wheels so you can roll it from room to room. The GE also has an adjustable fan that sets itself based on the room’s humidity, whereas the Ninesky runs at the same speed when in day or night mode.

The GE Dehumidifier is Energy Star-certified, whereas Ninesky just says it’s energy-efficient (but doesn’t have specific evidence to back it up).

The Midea Dehumidifier offers many of the same features as the GE Dehumidifier at a slightly lower price.

Final Verdict

Is the Ninesky Dehumidifier the best option out there? No. It works just like any other dehumidifier of its size, with the exception of it being a bit louder than similar models. It’s made my office more comfortable and comes at.a good price. If you don’t need the best-of-the-best, this might be a decent option as long as you’re OK with a little noise.

Where to Buy the Ninesky Dehumidifier

The Ninesky Dehumidifier is only available on Amazon. The list price is around $90, though it was less than $60 at the time of this writing.

The post Ninesky Dehumidifier Review: Here’s What We REALLY Think appeared first on Family Handyman.

Landlines are a thing of the past, rendering the phone jacks in most homes useless. You can use the space inside the telephone wall jack as a mini secret safe. With the wires removed, youll have space to hide some cash, jewelry or small collectibles. Then find or make something decorative to cover the opening, and no one will ever suspect theres loot hiding behind it!

This project will take some time to complete because you’ll need to wait a few hours for the super glue to dry completely. The first time I tried this, I didn’t wait long enough for the glue to dry, and the magnets were pulled off the wall. So, don’t make my mistakebe patient and let everything dry properly.

Is it safe to cut old telephone wires?

Modern communication wiring runs on low-voltage systems (less than 50v). However, phone lines used in the past were copper, which could carry a significant amount of current if improperly wired or insulated. That said, whenever you’re doing a project like this one that involves removing wiring, use a voltage tester to ensure you don’t encounter any unexpected voltage.

Remove the face plate

Use a flathead screwdriver to remove both screws in the phone jack face plate.

The post Turn Your Old Telephone Wall Jack Into a Secret Hiding Spot appeared first on Family Handyman.

VIA MERCHANT

$299 at Amazon

Shop at IQ Air

Shop at Walmart

The IQ Air AirVisual Pro Indoor Monitor is our top pick for indoor air quality monitors because it gives you tips on how to improve your air quality. The built-in air quality coach lets you know if you should run an air purifiersuch as the NuWave OxyPure Air Purifier or open/close your windows depending on your environment so you can be proactive about the changes you see on the monitor and the app.

To be honest, none of the monitors I tested ever picked up concerning levels of particulate matter, carbon monoxide or volatile organic compounds. The only time the IQ Air AirVisual Pro Indoor Monitor ever recommended any action was when I was cooking, and even then, it was just to open the window for a few minutes.

Another great feature is the ability to monitor outdoor air quality on the same monitor and app, similar to the air quality forecast on a weather app. I also like that it easily provides you with historical data to track changes in air quality over time, though, to be honest, the smartphone app was janky and unresponsive at times. Luckily, you can read your data simply by logging onto the company’s website and logging into your account.

Other than that, it checks all the boxes you’d want in an air monitor: lightweight, compact, accurate, easy to understand and app-compatible.

The post 5 Best Air Quality Monitors to Keep a Healthy Home, Tested and Reviewed appeared first on Family Handyman.

Why Isn’t My Light Working?

Depending on your comfort level, troubleshooting a light can involve many things, from simple fixes to “calling an electrician. ” Here’s what to look for, followed by some steps to remedy the situation.

• Old, loose or bad bulb
• Tripped breaker
• Incompatible dimmer and bulb
• Bad switch (or loose wiring at switch)
• Loose wiring at light, or if lights are wired in series, another light on the same circuit
• Overheating around light (if equipped with thermal protector)
• Wiring problems elsewhere in the circuit

How To Troubleshoot and Fix a Light

Lights that don’t work are frustrating. Often, though, they’re a simple fix. You won’t know exactly why your light isn’t working unless you dig in and check. For these troubleshooting steps, you’ll need a non-contact voltage tester and a multimeter.

Check the bulb

Let’s start with an easy one. If you have a problem with a single light or fixture, the first thing to do is check the bulb. If it feels loose, tighten it. If it’s burned out, replace it. Check that the bulb’s wattage doesn’t exceed the max allowable on the fixture, which can cause overheating. (If the bulb is hot to the touch, let it cool down first.)

If it’s a fluorescent fixture, it might be time to replace the tube or CFL (compact fluorescent lamp) with an energy-efficient light-emitting diode (LED). Fluorescents tend to flicker when they reach the end of their lifespan, but they also flicker as they warm up in cold environments, so make sure the problem persists before rushing out to replace it. (Although any time is a good time to switch to LEDs.)

Verify the breaker didn’t trip

If it’s not the bulb, check the breaker. This is more likely to be the culprit if you notice all your lights not working rather than a single fixture, but it’s still one thing you can check off your list. If your breakers aren’t labeled very well, look for a breaker that is in a different (middle) position than the others. Flip it off, then on, and check your lights.

Check dimmer compatibility

Did you recently install a dimmer switch or swap out an old can light trim with a new one? Not all LEDs are compatible with dimmers, and not all fixtures are dimmable. If you still have the packaging, check to see if it specifically says “dimmable.” Most of the time, dimmer incompatibility will cause your light to drop out or flicker, but it’s possible it could stop working completely. If it’s not compatible, swap out the bulb or trim.

Look at the switch

If you feel confident, look inside the switch box to see if the switch terminations are tight and that all splices are secure. Always turn off the breaker and verify the circuit is off with a non-contact voltage tester. Remember that just turning a switch off does not cut power to the box or switch.

Switches have contacts inside that can wear out after hundreds or thousands of throws. If the switch movement feels loose or you hear a loud snap or buzz when operating it, the switch might be bad. Basic toggle switches are cheap, so it’s easy to just replace it as a troubleshooting step.

Test the switch for continuity

If you have a multimeter, test the switch before swapping it out. Continuity means that the current (when it’s on) has a complete, unbroken path through the switch. It’s important to turn off the breaker for this step, and verify the power is off. Never test continuity on a live circuit.

Set the meter to continuity or the lowest resistance (ohms) setting. Hold one lead to each of the brass screw terminals on the switch. If the switch is good, you should hear a beep when you toggle the switch to on and the resistance should be very close to zero. Your multimeter instructions can help you with settings and procedures, too.

Check the lights

Bad splices at the light can keep your light from turning on. Turn off the switch and the breaker, and be ready to verify with your non-contact voltage tester. You may need a helper, especially if the light’s on the ceiling. Carefully open up the fixture or remove it from the box, and verify all circuits are dead. Two hots can share a neutral, so it’s important to turn off all circuits.

Check the splices and connections to the light. Everything should be tight and secure. If multiple lights are out, the problem is likely in the first light after the switch. Check that one first (if you know which one it is.)

Replace can light

Canister lights, aka can lights, recess into your ceiling, so they have thermal protectors to shut them off if they get too hot. This could happen if insulation is packed too tightly around the light, or falls over it when someone traipses around in the attic. Or, maybe the wattage of the lamp is too high for the fixture.

If your light goes off for a while, then comes back on, the thermal protector might be sensing a problem with heat buildup. If the problem is obvious, like too much insulation covering the light, fix that situation first. Then weigh your options. You may have to call an electrician if the situation keeps happening, or replace the can if you’re comfortable. Never bypass a thermal protector or remove it entirely.

Investigate wiring problems

Wiring problems at your electrical panel, or somewhere between your panel and your switch or the switch and the light, could cause lights to not work. This is where it’s best to call an electrician unless you have a lot of knowledge about how your wiring works and where things are fed from. Check the basics first, then call a pro if you can’t figure it out.

The post Troubleshooting a Failing Light: An Electrician’s Guide appeared first on Family Handyman.

I’ve been using it to combat humid North Carolina summers for two years now, and while it’s not my primary dehumidifier, it’s been useful in maintaining good air quality in my office and bathrooms. I can use it in multiple rooms because it’s lightweight and under $50, so it’s a cost-friendly investment for RVs, dorm rooms, or any place 215 square feet or under.

My Pro Breeze Dehumidifier review will discuss my experience with this machine, its pros and cons and how it compares to similar dehumidifiers I’ve used.

What is the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier?

ANTHONY O REILLY/FAMILY HANDYMAN

$39.99 at Walmart

$39.99 at Amazon

$44.99 at Home Depot

Pro Breeze Portable Dehumidifier

$39.99 at Walmart

$39.99 at Amazon

$44.99 at Home Depot

The Pro Breeze Dehumidifier is a compact and budget-friendly dehumidifier that can remove excess moisture in spaces up to 215 square feet. Excess moisture feels uncomfortable, and the water vapor can damage clothes, collectibles and even parts of your home.

If your closet has an outlet, it can also be used in closets to prevent clothes from getting damaged or smelly. It can hold two cups of water before automatically shutting off, and the company claims it costs around a cent per day to run.

Dehumidifiers work by drawing the air in a room or other space, such as a crawlspace, and passing it over a frigid coil that causes the water vapor to turn into a liquid that is collected in a bin. Many people pair a dehumidifier with an air purifier, such as the Blueair Air Purifier or NuWave OxyPure, to get rid of any harmful airborne particles.

While some dehumidifiers have a drainage hose option that allows them to run continuously, the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier must be emptied manually before it can continue working.

Pro Breeze Dehumidifier Features

Quiet

When I say that the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier is quiet, I mean it sounds like a white noise machine. So unlike a Midea dehumidifier, it won’t keep you up at night or be heard during your company Zoom call.

I placed it on my nightstand to see if it would be bothersome in a dorm or other small bedroom. Again, it wasn’t whisper-quiet, but I was able to easily fall asleep, especially once I put in my earplugs.

Portable and Lightweight

The Pro Breeze Dehumidifier weighs less than three pounds, so it should be no problem for most able-bodied people to carry it from room to room. There’s not really a handle on it, so you have to grab the entire unit, but with how small it is, that’s not an issue. The plug can also be disconnected from the main unit to avoid having to drag the cord on the floor.

16-ounce Water Tank

The Pro Breeze Dehumidifier can hold up to 16 ounces of water, so it’s best for small bedrooms, studio apartments, college dorms or closets that are susceptible to excess moisture. I’ve used this in bathrooms for the most part. During the summer, it has to be emptied about once a day. There’s no continuous drain option, which would have been nice for those days you’re away and want to keep it running to keep the room comfortable.

The tank easily comes out and can be dumped into a sink, tub, or to water certain plants.

If you’re looking for a basement dehumidifier, we recommend the Frigidaire dehumidifier.

Energy Efficient

The Pro Breeze Dehumidifier is not an Energy Star-certified appliance, but it’s still quite energy-efficient. The company’s official website says this specific model’s 0.023 kilowatt-hours (a unit of measurement to gauge energy usage) is about the same as most ceiling fans use. In terms of your utility bill, appliances with similar energy usage cost less than a penny per hour to run.

In other words, you could hypothetically leave this on for an entire day, and your energy bill would go up by less than a quarter for the month. That’s a good price to pay for relief from the humidity.

How We Tested It

As Family Handyman’s resident dehumidifier expert, I’ve tested more than a dozen full-sized, small, basement, crawl space and rechargeable dehumidifiers in my North Carolina home. For those who don’t know, the Tar Heel State experiences perpetual humidity from May to September. It sometimes feels so swampy that I wouldn’t be surprised if Shrek has a summer house in the state.

I’ve used the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier for about two years in three different homes, mainly in my bathrooms, to ensure the excess humidity keeps the room comfortable and the moisture doesn’t cause bad odors to linger (you know exactly what type of odors I’m referring to).

I also used it in my bedroom for a few nights to monitor its noise level and see if it would be a good fit for college students or apartment dwellers.

Pros

• Lightweight
• Portable
• Budget-friendly
• Quiet
• Auto shut-off function
• Energy-efficient

Cons

• Only covers up to 215 square feet

FAQ

Does the Pro Breeze dehumidifier work?

According to a North Carolina homeowner who’s used the Pro Breeze dehumidifier for about two years, it works, but it’s a small dehumidifier, so it will take a while to get rid of all the excess moisture in the air.

How much does it cost to run a Pro Breeze dehumidifier?

According to Pro Breeze’s website, the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier costs a penny per day to run (if left on for 24 hours).

What are the modes of the Pro Breeze dehumidifier?

The small Pro Breeze Dehumidifier only has an on and an off mode. Other Pro Breeze Dehumidifiers have adjustable humidity settings and fan speeds.

What Other Reviewers/Experts Had to Say

At the time of this writing, the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier had a 3.8 rating on Amazon, with about half of the nearly 51,000 reviews being five-star ratings.

“For the money and the size of the space I’ve inhabited (either a small dorm room or a 1-bedroom apartment) it’s worked very well,” says five-star Amazon reviewer Hannah. “It’s also genuinely quiet, and I like that it shuts of automatically when full. I’m very happy with the unit for what I spent on it.”

Many of the negative reviews come from people who say the machine lasted a short period.

“Purchased one of the dehumidifiers and it quit working after two or three months,” says one-star Amazon reviewer RockHound. “I immediately contacted customer support who, by the way, were amazing to work with, and they shipped me out a replacement. Well, within approximately one month the replacement stop working. This time when I reached out to customer support, they told me to just not to bother about providing proof of anything and they just refunded my money.”

The reviewer went on to say that a third one also broke within a few weeks of arriving at their house.

I’ve used it for two summers in humid North Carolina, and it’s withstood the test of time.

Pro Breeze Dehumidifier vs Gocheer Upgraded Air Dehumidifier

The Gocheer Upgraded Air Dehumidifier was our top pick for small dehumidifiers, and for a good reason. It only costs $20 more than the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier and is quieter, has a larger water tank capacity (68 ounces compared to the Pro Breeze’s 16-ounce tank, comes with a continuous drain hose option and a sleep mode (which the Pro Breeze does not have).

The Pro Breeze is much simpler to operate than the Gocheer. The latter has multiple buttons that could be confusing for those unfamiliar with dehumidifiers, whereas the Pro Breeze only has an on/off switch.

Final Verdict

The Pro Breeze Dehumidifier is one of those products that is, objectively, not the best. I don’t mean it’s bad, because it’s not. So long as you’re only using it in small spaces that don’t require a continuous drainage hose option. Many Amazon customers have complaints about its long-term durability, but as someone who’s used it for two years, I can attest that it gets the job done.

Are there better options out there? Yes. For people on a very tight budget, the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier will still get the job done.

Where to Buy the Pro Breeze Dehumidifier

ANTHONY O REILLY/FAMILY HANDYMAN

$39.99 at Walmart

$39.99 at Amazon

$44.99 at Home Depot

Pro Breeze Portable Dehumidifier

$39.99 at Walmart

$39.99 at Amazon

$44.99 at Home Depot

The Pro Breeze Dehumidifier is available through Amazon for less than $50. It is also available at Walmart and The Home Depot for the same price.

The post Pro Breeze Dehumidifier Review: My Honest Thoughts After a Year of Testing appeared first on Family Handyman.

One of my proudest DIY moments was when I first replaced a light fixture. Dealing with electricity comes with equal parts intimidation and fear. The thought of dealing with the connections of electric wires felt insurmountable and challenging.

Boy, was I wrong! While installing or changing a basic light fixture requires a high regard for safety and some attention to detail, it is not complicated. Nor does it require expensive tools. When it comes to electricity, there is one rule you cannot break or deviate from: Cut off the power to the source and test it before you touch it.

Although I have gained experience with electrical work, I would not consider myself quick or extremely skilled at it. Because we wanted to install our outdoor light fixture in a place without a junction box or wiring and intended for it to be connected to its own switch inside the entryway, I called an electrician. Burkhardt sent out a licensed electrician to install the box, run the wiring from outside through the walls in our office and to the entryway, and expand the box in the entryway to accommodate an additional switch, all in just a few hours. It would have taken me much longer to do and probably included patching more holes in my drywall. By calling, I turned this into a few-hour project rather than a full weekend project.

Choosing a porch light fixture

When choosing a light fixture for your porch, consider how much it will be exposed to moisture from the elements. When shopping for a porch light fixture, you find exterior grade light fixtures and damp-rated light fixtures. Choose accordingly if your light fixture will be exposed to all the weather elements, use and Exterior grade. If your light fixture will live under a covered porch that doesnt receive sheets of rain, you may opt for a damp-rated fixture. It is a judgement call, when it comes to electricity outdoors go for the best protection you can find. Look for a light fixture with a universal mounting bar or mounting plate to ensure it is compatible with whichever junction box was installed.

Safety considerations

As with all electrical projects, ensure that the power to the area you are working in is turned off at the breaker before beginning work. Use a non-contact voltage connector, insulated tools and a non-metal ladder during installation. And, if at all possible, choose to do your installation on a dry day. The last thing you want to do is install a light fixture when it’s raining.

Cut the hole

After determining where you wish to hang your outdoor light, use a hole saw to cut a hole through the soffit panels and OSB underlayment into the cavity above the porch.

The post How To Install a Porch Light Fixture appeared first on Family Handyman.

Because of the home’s age, it frequently leaks. Despite several upgrades over the years, it’s still drafty in the winter and damp during the Minnesota summers, especially in the basement. I struggle with combinations of humidifiers in the winter and dehumidifiers in the summer to maintain humidity control in my shop.

Having more than thirty years of experience in home remodeling and repair has allowed me to see the effects of humidity in houses that aren’t protected by dehumidifiers. In severe cases, I’ve found situations that included material deterioration and mold occurrencesMinnesota’s crazy weather can do that with ease.

I tested the $150 Hisense dehumidifier, which proved to be a worthy opponent to the excessive moisture in my space. Check out the full 4-1-1 on this dehumidifier to see if it’s the right choice for you.

Want to see all the dehumidifiers I’ve tried? Check out the best dehumidifiers for basements.

What is the Hisense dehumidifier?

VIA MERCHANT

$149.99 at Amazon

$259 at Lowe's

Hisense Dehumidifier

$149.99 at Amazon

$259 at Lowe's

The Hisense 50-pint dehumidifier claims to control humidity in a home as large as 4,500 square feet. My basement and my home combined are not quite 2,000 square feet. However, with the level of performance I demand from the dehumidifiers I use for woodworking, it’s a pretty fair comparison.

Honestly, I’m a bit doubtful that any of the machines I tested could dehumidify a large home on their own without another method of circulating the air; they’re simply not large enough to move air through that big of a space.

This is where the Hisense makes sense (hehe, get it?). Costing up to $100 less than more well-known brand names, the Hisense is affordable enough to put one on each floor of the house (if needed). I would expect the Hisense dehumidifier to handle a single story with ease, with or without a wood shop involved.

Compact yet full-sized, this machine offers a generously sized condensation tank, which minimizes the need to empty it constantly. The machine also has the ability to bypass the reservoir with a drain hose to avoid the task altogether. It’s relatively heavy at 40 pounds or so, and the handles for carrying could be designed better. However, it’s on wheels for easy transportation, and it’s one of the quietest dehumidifiers that I’ve come across.

Hisense Dehumidifier Features

The Hisense dehumidifier has most of the same comfort and convenience features as more costly models. It features a 50-pint reservoir to catch the water it pulls from the surrounding air. The unit also contains a bypass connection with a hose attachment to avoid having to empty the reservoir when it’s full. If you choose to use the reservoir, it has an automatic shut-off-when-full feature to keep water from going everywhere.

The model’s other features include seemingly durable wheels for everyday use if you need to move the machine around. Its molded carrying handles seem designed more for looks than functionality. That said, they worked okay for me to get the unit up and down the stairs to the basement.

Hisense did the filter right on this dehumidifier. It features a micro-mesh design placed directly on the back of the machine for easy access when it’s time to clean it. What I like best is that removing the filter exposes the coil fins. While many dehumidifier models conceal the fins within the machine, making them hard to clean if the task becomes necessary, the Hisense makes cleaning easy with a coil fin brush.

From an operational standpoint, the Hisense dehumidifier features automatic operation, sleep mode, timer, digital display and humidity settings, a filter cleaning reminder indicator, plus high- and low-speed operation. The low speed of the unit is extremely quiet, while the high-speed setting is roughly as loud as that of a compact dehumidifier.

How We Tested It

The testing process for dehumidifiers in my home and woodworking shop seemingly never ends. In efforts to control humidity for this purpose, I’ve gone through a number of them over the years. For this review, I used the Hisense dehumidifier for two weeks, including one week with the reservoir and one week with the drain hose.

I set to the lowest possible setting of 30% humidity. Using the reservoir, I had to empty the machine at least once per day after a period of heavy rainfall. A few days during testing required me to empty the reservoir once during the day and again before bed to ensure it ran all night.

I liked the machine better with the drain hose attached, which meant I could set it and forget it, like you can with a self-draining dehumidifier. My only complaints are that the filter-cleaning indicator would turn on once every couple of days, even when it didn’t appear to require cleaning, and the reservoir, while functional, seemed somewhat flimsy, including the handle. While it’s likely just fine, I would have liked something that felt a little more beefy. Other than that, it ran like a champ, hovering at between 30% and 32% humidity anytime I checked.

Pros

• Super quiet low-speed operation
• Large capacity water reservoir
• Reservoir bypass option for continuous operation
• Heavy-duty power cord
• Budget-friendly pricing
• EnergyStar certified
• Accessible coil fins for deep cleaning ability

Cons

• Carrying handles could be designed better
• Water reservoir handle and construction are a little flimsy
• 4,500-square-foot capacity seems a bit overstated

FAQ

What should I set my Hisense dehumidifier to?

The humidity setting you choose for your dehumidifier depends on what feels comfortable to you. While many dehumidifiers can be set as low as 30%, some homeowners find that setting too low, and the air becomes too dry for comfort. For those who live in humid locations, a setting of 50% is usually adequate to feel a difference from the outdoors. In any case, for your home’s well-being, choose a setting between 30% and 50% for the best results.

What is the continuous mode on a Hisense dehumidifier?

Understanding what a dehumidifier does can help you understand continuous mode on your Hisense machine. When operating your dehumidifier at a particular humidity setting, the machine will stop removing water from the air when it reaches the desired level.

In continuous mode, the machine will keep running to remove as much water vapor from the air as it can, regardless of the humidity setting. The feature is useful when trying to dry out a room or an area that’s been affected by large amounts of humidity for a short time.

How do I get my Hisense dehumidifier to drain through a hose?

Getting your Hisense dehumidifier to drain through a hose is a simple matter of connecting a hose with a garden hose fitting onto the provided drain attachment. The fitting is found behind a small access door on the left side of the machine and is visible when the water reservoir is removed. There’s no need to remove the reservoir or make any other adjustments once the hose is attached.

What Other Reviewers/Experts Had to Say

Of Lowe’s customers who purchased and reviewed the Hisense Dehumidifier, 60% gave the machine five stars. Positive reviews cite the dehumidifier’s efficient operation even after up to five years. However, some negative reviews point to a seemingly common problem with the unit.

Several customers complain of receiving an E9 code in the machine’s display within or after a year of operation or so. The E9 code means the machine can’t communicate with the humidity sensor, rendering the machine mostly unusable.

While the sensor is replaceable, it’s likely more trouble than most homeowners want to deal with. Fortunately, this situation, while noted in the reviews, seems to affect only a very small percentage of units sold.

Hisense Dehumidifier vs GE Dehumidifier

The Hisense 50-Pint 2-Speed dehumidifier is a full-sized unit designed for use throughout a home for overall humidity control. The GE dehumidifier is more of a one-room-at-a-time model. While both products appear in our review of the best dehumidifiers for basements, the GE model is perhaps better suited for small spaces.

The GE dehumidifier has a 20-pint capacity compared to the Hisense’s 50-pint bucket. However, you can attach a drain hose for continuous draining. The GE offers an auto defrost option, which isn’t available on the Hisense. However, the two machines are really best for different types of humidity-control needs.

If you’re looking to effectively control the humidity in one room at a time, the GE is more portable and efficient than the Hisense. On the other hand, if you need a dehumidifying workhorse for a large area, consider the Hisense.

Read more about other dehumidifiers we’ve tested, including the Midea Dehumidifier, Frigidaire Dehumidifier, and Eva-Dry Dehumidifier, the latter of which we think is one of the best small dehumidifiers.

Final Verdict

While there may be some concerns about the Hisense reviews stating trouble with the E9 codes, the problem is limited to a small number of machines in the big picture. My testing revealed the machine to be hard-working enough to handle my needs for controlling humidity in my woodworking shop, which isn’t an easy task.

Customers looking for a powerful dehumidifier that can handle big jobs at a budget-friendly price might do well choosing the Hisense dehumidifier.

I wouldn’t recommend the Hisense for doing the work of one of the best crawl space dehumidifiersthey have a hard job. But because of how powerful the Hisense is, I recommend attaching a drain hose to it for continuous draining, especially in homes with high humidity levels.

Where to Buy the Hisense Dehumidifier

VIA MERCHANT

$149.99 at Amazon

$259 at Lowe's

Hisense Dehumidifier

$149.99 at Amazon

$259 at Lowe's

The Hisense dehumidifier is available at Lowe’s and Amazon for $152 to $214.

The post Hisense Dehumidifier Review: A Budget-Friendly Option to Keep Humidity at Bay appeared first on Family Handyman.

That stench was likely caused by excess humidity, which led to mold and mildew, which can also present health risks. There were very few ways to address this issue back then without extensive and expensive repairs, but luckily, that’s not the case now.

Today, you can stick an Eva-Dry dehumidifier in there and save your clothes and closet. Because it doesn’t use electricity and is reusable, you can place it in safes to keep firearms, collectibles, or other items from being damaged by humidity.

I’ve used the Eva-Dry dehumidifier for nearly a year, and to be honest, I’m obsessed with it. My clothes have never smelled fresher, and at under $25, it’s a no-brainer if you live in a humid area or need to keep moisture out of a confined area.

What is the Eva-Dry dehumidifier?

VIA MERCHANT

$14.97 at Amazon

Eva-Dry Mini Dehumidifier

$14.97 at Amazon

Eva-Dry dehumidifiers come in different shapes for various purposes, including some self-drainingmodels, but today, we’re looking at the Eva-Dry Renewable dehumidifier. It’s a little smaller than a Nintendo Switch or a Nintendo DSif you’re old school, making it easy to store in safes or closets.

The renewable aspect refers to the non-toxic crystallized silica gel that attracts and absorbs extra moisture in the air without electricity and can be reused. Once the beads in the center display turn from orange to green, you plug it in to heat the unit to get rid of the absorbed moisture. It can then be used again, thus repeating the cycle.

It can work in spaces up to 333 square feet, which is larger than my last New York City apartment. So, it could even be used as abasement dehumidifier for some smaller homes. For this Eva-Dry review, I used onein a small bathroom and the other in a closet.

Eva Dry Dehumidifier Features

Let’s take a look at some of the most notable features of this nifty dehumidifier.

Renewable

The Eva-Dry dehumidifier uses crystallized silica gel to absorb four to six ounces of moisture from the air. The company claims it can be reused for about 10 years by heating the gel about every month to release the stored water (more on that in a second).

These gels are sometimes used in cat litter to reduce odors, and they can absorb up to 40% of their weight in water vapor. They capture the humidity by storing it in microscopic capillaries and holding it there until releasedin the case of Eva-Dry, by being heated when plugged into a standard outlet. It takes about 10 hours to completely dry it out, at which point it can be reused wherever you had it. Be warned: The unit will get hot when charging, so it’s best not to touch the front of it.

The gel is orange and turns green when it’s at its maximum capacity and needs to be plugged in.

One thing to keep in mind is that you cannot customize how much moisture the gels absorb like you can with electric dehumidifiers.

Compact

The Eva-Dry dehumidifier is the smallest we’ve tested, yet it can work in rooms up to 333 square feet, about the same as some electronic models out there (reminder: this only uses electricity to release the water vapors). This allows it to be stashed in a corner, on a shelf, or in most safes.

Although they’re technically sealed, humidity can still enter safes and cause rust or mold/mildew growth, which could damage what’s inside. For example, the inner parts of a firearm could rust if exposed to humidity, possibly causing it to malfunction or misfire.

You could even use it as a crawl space dehumidifier.

Long-Lasting

I know one of your top questions is, “How long does the Eva-Dry dehumidifier last?” To be honest, I don’t know. The company states it can hold anywhere from 4 to 6 ounces of water. For reference, that’s about three-quarters of a cup. I’ll get into how long it took to get there in a little bit, but the short answer is, “It depends where you put it.” The company claims it can last for 20 to 30 days.

Cordless

For my money, one of the best features of the Eva-Dry dehumidifier is that it’s cordless. You might be asking, “How do you plug it in?” There’s a plug located on the back that can be used when it’s time to heat the silica gel. This makes it compact and portable, and because it doesn’t use electricity to run (only when drying out), it is 100% quiet.

How We Tested It

I originally tested the Eva-Dry dehumidifier when researching our best small dehumidifiers roundup, and I loved it so much I bought another one to use elsewhere around the house. I’ve had one in the master bedroom closet and the other in the laundry room.

I wrote down when I first placed one of the units in their respective location and then marked the date when the silica gel turned from orange to green, indicating when it had absorbed all the moisture.

As you could probably guess, the one in the laundry room needed to be recharged much quicker than the one in the closet. The former only took about five days, and the latter lasted about three weeks to a month, depending on the weather.

It’s hard to measure this, but I’ve also kept track of how “fresh” the closet has smelled and felt, and I can tell you there’s been a considerable change. We live in the suburbs of Charlotte, NC, where we’re sweating harder than a snowman in Phoenix from May to September due to the excess humidity. To be clear, it’s not going to provide relief the way my Midea dehumidifier does, but without it, I’d have damp clothes.

I prefer to line-dry most of my laundry, which is pretty difficult with all that excess water already in the air. Since using the Eva-Dry Renewable dehumidifier, my clothes have dried quicker and more thoroughly.

Lastly, I timed how long it took to heat the unit and turn the silica gel from green back to orange so it could go back in its place. It was generally around the 10-hour mark advertised by the company, giving or taking an hour depending on the temperature of the place where you place it.

Another suggestion for a dehumidifier for larger spaces? Check out our Frigidaire dehumidifier review.

FAQ

How long do Eva-Dry dehumidifiers last?

Eva-Dry says its renewable dehumidifiers can last about a month before needing to be plugged in to release the water, though it can be shorter or longer than that depending on how humid it is in the area you put it.

Can you leave Eva-Dry plugged in?

No, it’s advised to unplug the Eva-Dry Renewable dehumidifier after it has released all of the stored water vapor so you don’t damage the silica gels or the unit, which gets hot when plugged in.

How does the Eva-Dry dehumidifier work?

The Eva-Dry Renewable dehumidifier uses crystallized silica gel that attracts, absorbs and stores water vapors using microscopic capillaries that can hold up to 40% of their weight. The gels turn from orange to green when full and will hold onto the moisture until it’s released via the heat produced by plugging the unit in. Once all the water’s gone and the gels are orange, the dehumidifier can be placed back in its original spot (like a musty closet).

What Other Reviewers/Experts Had to Say

The Eva-Dry Renewable dehumidifier has a 4.2 average rating on Amazon, with more than 20,000 of the nearly 33,000 reviews being five stars. “Its rapid, effective, and energy-efficient design has been a welcome change, as it quickly removes excess moisture from the air with no leaks, spills, or unpleasant odors,” says Florida resident and five-star reviewer CZDM.

Negative reviewers said the unit didn’t perform as advertised, with some showing pictures of hardened spices or other signs of excess moisture in areas where they had placed an Eva-Dry dehumidifier.

“[I] put [it] back in the closet, this time adding another dehumidifier bag that I bought from Home Depot, and in two weeks that bag was full of water, but this little unit still shows the same orange window like the day I received it,” says one-star customer reviewer Shaun Meyer.

Eva-Dry Dehumidifier vs Pro Breeze Dehumidifier

Pro Breeze produces and sells air conditioners, heaters, air purifiers and dehumidifiers, like Eva-Dry. The brand doesn’t have a cordless, renewable option like Eva-Dry, though it has several small dehumidifiers. I’ve used the Pro Breeze Electric Mini dehumidifier, and think it’s another great choice for small spaces.

Right off the bat, the Pro Breeze has a larger capacity than the Eva-Dry renewable, capable of holding up to 8.45 ounces of water, while the Eva-Dry can hold anywhere from 4 to 6 ounces.

The Pro Breeze is good for spaces up to 205 square feet, which is actually smaller than the Eva-Dry’s 333-square-foot coverage area. Still, I think there’s a case to be made for the Pro Breeze because it’s more efficient at its job.

You’ll feel relief from the humidity much quicker with the Pro Breeze than the Eva-Dry, because the electric unit is more powerful at sucking in water vapors than the crystallized silica gel. So if you’re looking for a dehumidifier because it’s uncomfortable in a room or RV/camper, go for the Pro Breeze. If you’re just looking to keep excess moisture from ruining a small area like a closet or safe (or you’re on a tight budget), the Eva-Dry is your pick.

By the way, consider complementing your dehumidifier with a compact air purifier like the Blueair Air Purifier to eliminate other airborne nuisances.

Final Verdict

There are very few products that I outright recommend to virtually everyone, but I can’t think of a single person (minus those in climates where excess humidity simply isn’t a concern) who shouldn’t buy the Eva-Dry Renewable dehumidifier. The cordless, compact, renewable and energy efficient. Most importantly, it’s incredibly effective at its job, at least in my experience, with two of them across two different apartments and one home.

It’s not ideal for making huge rooms more comfortable, but it can prevent excess moisture from ruining clothes, firearms, or collectibles sensitive to water vapors.

Where to Buy the Eva Dry Dehumidifier

The Eva-Dry Renewable dehumidifier is available on Amazon for less than $25. It is also available at Home Depot for the same price.

The post Over 30,000 People Love the Eva-Dry Mini Dehumidifier—Here’s Why It’s a Gamechanger for Musty Closets appeared first on Family Handyman.

Using a Non-Contact Voltage Tester Incorrectly

Mistake: Misusing your tester.

Electricians always carry non-contact voltage testers with them, and you should have one, too. They’re inexpensive and easy to use, and they help keep you safe when doing DIY electrical work.

Solution: Test. Use. Verify.

First, test the tester by holding it to a known live circuit, like a powered appliance or lamp cord. Or, insert it into a receptacle (use the smaller slot, which is the hot side). The tester should light up and/or beep. Locate the circuit you’ll be working on and turn off the breaker. Use the tester to verify the circuit’s off, then check the tester on the same live circuit as before to confirm it functioned correctly.

The post 15 Electrical Mistakes Homeowners Make appeared first on Family Handyman.

VIA MERCHANT

$799.99 at Amazon

Shop on Walmart

Senville mini split systems top our list of the best mini split brands. Senville offers numerous mini split models that vary by size, capacity and price. However, the most telling factor for us regarding the company is its high overall customer satisfaction rating. While HVAC makers in general often struggle with customer review scores, Senville maintains a 4.7-star rating on Trustpilot, with 84% of customers awarding it five stars.

Senville mini split efficiency ratings, measured in SEER (seasonal energy efficiency ratio), vary between 18 SEER to over 25 SEER. Considering a SEER rating of 20 is considered excellent, the company offers some of the highest average efficiency ratings available. Additionally, Senville’s pricing starts under $700 for a single-room model. One of its 20-SEER 9,000-BTU units, capable of conditioning a 450-square-foot room, retails for $699 at Walmart.

The post These Are the 5 Best Mini Split Brands, According to HVAC Experts appeared first on Family Handyman.

VIA MERCHANT

$972.35 at Lowe's

A.O. Smith is a pioneer in water heating and water treatment solutions (the brand celebrates 150 years in business in 2024), so it’s no surprise it gets high marks from experts. Our panel of plumbers and HVAC technicians recommends it as the top brand, with five of our seven experts mentioning it.

“They are known for their long lifespan, superior build quality, and excellent warranties, providing peace of mind and great value,” says Mehdi Khachani, CEO of JMK Plumbing. A long lifespan is key because you don’t want to replace a water heater too frequently.

Patrick Sullivan, operations manager at John The Plumber, says that A.O. Smith water heaters “combine innovative technology with reliability.” One of their most popular models is the A.O. Smith Signature 500, a water heater with leak detection and automatic shut-off. A mobile app allows you to control the water heater remotely and receive notifications if there’s an issue.

The post Best Water Heater Brands, According to Plumbers and HVAC Techs appeared first on Family Handyman.

However, if you pair a heat pump with a traditional furnace, they work together to cool a home in the summer and heat it even during bitterly cold winters.

Read on to learn more about this efficient heating and cooling system with insights from two heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) pros Liam Hogan from Hogan Mechanical Incorporated and Alexander Siv from Amherst Heating and Plumbing.

What Is a Dual-Fuel Heat Pump HVAC System?

This type of HVAC system relies on a connected heat pump and furnace to meet a home’s heating and cooling needs. The heat pump provides heat during cooler seasons, like fall and spring, while the furnace provides heat in the winter. “Heat pumps are really efficient and limit gas usage, so are a nice alternative heat source in a home during cool, but not cold months,” Hogan says.

Additionally, in warmer summer months, a dual-fuel system also works like a high-efficiency central air conditioner. “It’s like the best of both worlds,” Siv says. “You get the efficiency of the heat pump for cooling in the summer and some heat in the spring and fall. Then, in the winter, you get the heating efficiency of a furnace.”

How Does a Heat Pump with Furnace System Work

A dual-fuel heat pump with a furnace system alternates between using electricity to power the heat pump and gas or oil to power the furnace. Outside temperatures are the catalyst for the change within the system.

Cold Weather Operation

As long as the temperature is above 35 degrees F or so, a heat pump can pull heat from the outside air. Under ideal conditions, it can transfer 300 percent more energy than it consumes. So, during cooler seasons like fall and spring, the heat pump handles the heating duties.

The dual-fuel system still incorporates the furnace but does not use burners, just its air distribution features. The heat pump sends hot “refrigerant” through the furnace’s air conditioning coil. The furnace fan draws air from the home’s cold-air returns, blows that air over the warm coil and then sends the warmed air throughout the house.

The furnace kicks in for only the coldest months. “In Massachusetts, your thermostat makes the switch to the furnace when it’s 32 degrees outside or colder,” Hogan says.

Warm Weather Operation

As shown in the photo above, an air-source heat pump is basically a hybrid air conditioner. Both have a compressor (a high-pressure pump) that circulates refrigerant (a volatile gas) through indoor and outdoor coils, a network of tubes designed to facilitate the capture and release of heat.

But while an air conditioner can move refrigerant in only one direction, a heat pump can force refrigerant in either direction, for heating one way and cooling the other. The pump does this by means of an extra diverting device called a switchover valve. In the summer, the heat pump reverses the refrigerant flow so cold liquid flows over the coil and cools your home just like a conventional air conditioner.

Will a Heat Pump with a Furnace System Work for Your House?

To figure out whether a heat pump is practical for your home, you’ll need to contact a heating contractor.

• Start with a heating and cooling load analysis. Don’t trust the label on the old furnace; ask your installer to measure and double-check the math. Home improvement projects (new insulation, new windows or an addition) can change your heating and cooling needs.
• Conduct a comparative cost analysis. If you live in an area with lower-priced natural gas and sky-high electrical rates, a heat pump will not pay itself off as quickly. Your installer can factor in local energy rates (including peak and off-peak electrical rates) to calculate your potential savings and payback.
• Ask about compatibility. Dual-fuel heat pumps are designed to be straightforward A/C replacements, but older furnaces probably won’t work with a new switch-hitting system. “It will need to be determined whether the current furnace can be controlled together with the new heat pump equipment,” Siv says.

How Much Does a Heat Pump with Furnace Cost?

A dual-fuel heat pump with a furnace will cost more than a furnace and A/C install. “A typical gas furnace with an air conditioner will be between $8,000 to $10,000,” Hogan says. “Expect to pay between $12,000 to $15,000 for a dual-fuel heat pump with furnace installation.”

What Tax Credits Are Available for Heat Pumps?

In addition to saving money in the long run, a dual-fuel heat pump might pay you back right away. This upgrade may qualify for an energy-savings tax credit plus rebates. Ask your utility company and HVAC installer about available incentives in your area.

FAQ

What are the downsides to a heat pump?

Heat pumps on their own are not effective in very cold temperatures. While more effective when paired with a furnace, Siv points out that the higher installation cost of a heat pump with furnace system is the main downside. “It’s a great system upgrade if you can afford it,” he says.

At what temperature do heat pumps become ineffective?

Generally, heat pumps are ineffective at 35 degrees F or colder.

Can heat pumps cool your house in 100-degree weather?

Most heat pump models can effectively cool your house in outside temperatures up to 115 degrees F.

What’s the “20 degree rule” for heat pumps?

Never set your thermostat for more than 20 degrees cooler than it is outside. So, if it’s 90 degrees F outside, the thermostat should not be set any lower than 70 degrees F.

About the Experts

• Alexander Siv owns Amherst Heating and Plumbing in Amherst, Massachusetts. He has a master plumber’s license in Massachusetts and more than 10 years of plumbing experience.
• Liam Hogan is the owner of Hogan Mechanical Incorporated a full-service residential and commercial plumbing and heating company in Springfield, Massachusetts. He has ten years of industry experience.

The post Pairing a Heat Pump with Furnace: What to Know About Dual-Fuel Systems appeared first on Family Handyman.

Missing or Defective GFCIs

Ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection is now required for outlets in the kitchen, bathroom and garage, and for all outdoor circuits. It cuts power to a circuit if it detects a current change, protecting against electrical shocks.

Test for the presence of GFCIs by plugging a GFCI receptacle tester into an outlet in each of these areas (photo violation below). Itll detect whether theres a GFCI on the circuit and other wiring problems, like reverse polarity and open grounds.

The post 5 Common Building Code Violations appeared first on Family Handyman.

Judging from the number of panels and storage tanks I saw on rooftops when I lived in Japan in the ’90s, homeowners in some other countries are more tuned into this energy-saving strategy than Americans. Al Ruggie of Phoenix-based ASAP Restoration laments: “For sure, we have never installed a solar hot water heater on a home for a client because we wouldn’t be able to warranty the unit since (as far as I know) they aren’t made by any single company that offers one. And (sadly, I’ll admit) despite being in Phoenix where it’s sunny year-round, I rarely see solar hot water heaters on local properties.”

The California property on which I live was off-grid when we moved in (it still is, but we’re working on that), and besides PV panels, it had a large solar water heating panel. It was homemade, too bulky and unwieldy to put on the roof, so we never used it. And that begs a caution for anyone considering a DIY solar water heater: Don’t forget to include hoisting it onto the roof, securing it against high winds and connecting it to your hot water supply as part of your overall plan.

What Is a Solar Water Heater?

A solar water heater heats water using the sun’s energy and circulates it into the household’s hot water supply. There are several ways to build one, but one of the most common is to construct a collector panel with an in-built network of tubing through which water can circulate. Cold water enters at one end, and water heated by radiation absorbed by the collector comes out the other.

Solar hot water systems of yesteryear were often leaky, failure-prone and ineffective (like our bulky panel), but the industry has matured. Today, you can choose between super-efficient, professionally installed collectors and less-expensive DIY-friendly solar hot water heater systems.

How Does a Solar Water Heater Work?

All solar water heaters have one feature in common: the ability to absorb heat from sunlight and transfer it into water. Systems differ, however, in the way they store and circulate water.

Passive systems rely on the thermosyphon effect the fact that hot water is less dense than cold water and tends to rise above it. These systems usually include a holding tank positioned above the solar collector (this is the type of system I often saw on Japanese rooftops). On a sunny day, water heated in the collector rises into the tank, and an outlet feeds the heated water into the building by the force of gravity.

Active systems circulate water using a mechanical pump, and there are two types:

• A direct system circulates water into a holding tank in the building, which is usually just a standard tank-style water heater.
• An indirect system circulates a heat-transfer fluid like ethylene glycol (anti-freeze) through a heat exchanger, which is simply a system of coils installed inside a water heater tank. The fluid exchanges heat with the water in the tank rather than heating the water directly. This type of system prevents water contamination and is better for colder climates because it resists freezing.

Will a Solar Water Heater Work for Your Home?

As with all things solar, the number-one prerequisite for a solar water heater is enough direct sunlight to make it work. If you have a sunny spot on your roof or property large enough to set one up (it doesn’t have to be on the roof), you can save energy by feeding heated water into your existing water heater or circulating it through your plumbing directly from a rooftop tank.

You can benefit even if you live in a cold climate because you can either install a freeze-proof heat-exchange system or a system you can drain in the winter when temperatures are below freezing.

How Much Does a Solar Water Heater Cost?

This depends on how much of it you DIY. If you build your own collector, install it yourself and hook it up to your existing water heater, the cost could be as low as $1,000, depending on the materials you use. The cost to purchase the components as a kit is between $1,500 and $6,000, and if you have the system professionally installed, add about $3,000.

Solar water heaters qualify for the Renewable Energy Tax Credit, a federal program that reimburses 30 percent of the cost of purchase and installation. In addition, some states and communities may provide additional incentives. To qualify, the system must be rated by the Solar Rating and Certification Corporation (SRCC) or a comparable entity, which may include some commercial DIY kits.

How To Make a DIY Solar Water Heater

As mentioned, the most common DIY solar water heater consists of a collector, a coil network, a cold water inlet and an outlet for hot water. Here’s a very basic outline of the procedure for building one:

1. Build the collector box using lightweight plywood (1/4 to 3/8 inches thick) for the base and 1-by-4-inch cedar for the frame. Seal all joints with silicone caulk.
2. Insulate the interior of the box with 1-inch foil-backed foam insulation with the foil facing outward.
3. Construct a coil that fits snugly in the box using 3/4-inch copper tubing and elbow fittings. Maximize the number of turns in the coil to lengthen the path of water flowing through the collector.
4. Extend one end of the coil through a bottom corner of the box for the cold water inlet and the other end through the diagonally opposite corner for the hot water outlet. Solder an adapter onto each end so you can attach a garden hose or plumbing pipe.
5. Cover the collector box with glass and use silicone caulk to seal the edges and keep out rain.
6. Mount the collector on the roof or the ground in a southerly direction to maximize solar exposure.
7. Connect a cold water hose or supply pipe to the inlet and a hot water hose or pipe to the outlet. Run the hot water supply to a holding tank, which may be in the house or on the roof. The plumbing connections vary depending on the configuration.

Pros and Cons of Solar Water Heaters

Pros

• Energy savings: You’re heating water for free. Whether you use it directly from a rooftop tank or use it to fill your water heater, you’ll save money.
• Low maintenance: Once the system is up and running, you can basically forget about it. If you’re circulating a heat-transfer fluid, however, you may have to replace it periodically.
• Eco-friendly: A solar water heater is an effective way to reduce dependence on fossil fuels for home heating.

Cons

• Depends on the weather: A solar water heater won’t work on cloudy or rainy days or at night. Insulating the storage tanks helps mitigate this drawback.
• Winterization: You need to prepare for freezing temperatures, either by using a heat-transfer fluid or draining the pipes and shutting down the system in the winter.
• Cost: In general, a solar water heater costs significantly more than a conventional one, even if you build it yourself.

FAQ

How long does a solar water heater keep water warm?

In a properly insulated storage tank, water heated in a solar water heater during the day should stay hot overnight and possibly longer, depending on how much you use.

How much solar power do I need to run a solar water heater?

The amount of solar energy a solar water heater uses depends on a number of factors, including the amount of available sunlight, your water usage and the size of the collector panel. As a rule of thumb, plan on 10 square feet of panel space for each person in the household.

What’s the lifespan of solar water heaters?

A solar water heater can last from 10 to 25 years, although this depends on climate, the configuration of the system and the materials used to build it.

Do solar water heaters need a pump?

If a solar water heater’s storage tank isn’t mounted above the collector to take advantage of the thermosyphon effect, you need a pump to circulate water through the coil and into the tank. A solar-powered pump doesn’t use any extra energy, but if you plug a circulation pump into your electrical system, it will consume from 25 to 150 watts of power when it’s running.

The post How Does a DIY Solar Water Heater Work? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Install Plastic Raceways

Raceways come in various sizes and shapes, are paintable and often have an adhesive backing for quick installation. If a narrow version like the one shown here runs along the top of the baseboard, you’ll hardly notice it.

Raceways are much more noticeable when they run up walls or around doorways, though. Whether you paint your raceway to match the wall or the trim, avoid fussy brushwork by painting before you install it. Touching up any nicks and scratches after installation is easy.

The post 4 Genius Ways to Hide Wiring appeared first on Family Handyman.

Research the Task

“The first thing any homeowner needs to know is if they are not comfortable or do not know what they are doing when it comes to working with electricity in any way, hire a professional,” says Joe Hammer, owner of SAK Plumbing & Electrical of Phoenix, Arizona. “Working with electricity is completely different than fixing a leaky pipe or squeaky door.”

That’s true, but Williamson says you got this: “Replacing switches and receptacles is still very much something that a DIYer can do!” Before you jump in, do your research. Figure out if learning how to wire a light or receptacle is something you want to tackle. “The internet is indispensable, especially YouTube,” Williamson says. “I do it all the time.”

The post Wiring a Switch and Outlet the Safe and Easy Way appeared first on Family Handyman.

Enter the Shark FlexBreeze Fan with InstaCool Mist. This fan works indoors and outdoors and can be charged to run cordless for up to 24 hours or plugged in for nonstop use. Plus, it has a misting attachment for those extra-hot days and many other cool features Ill get into below.

What is the Shark FlexBreeze Fan?

The Shark FlexBreeze is a versatile fan that functions as a pedestal and tabletop fan. Its lightweight for toting around the house but also works in outdoor spaces. It runs cordless, on a charge or can be plugged into an outlet. It even has a misting attachment for added chill, whether you’re misting yourself, your pet or a few plants.

The FlexBreeze can run for 24 hours on a single charge and is super quiet, even at high speeds. Its sleek design ensures it looks great in any setting.

MARY HENN/FAMILY HANDYMAN

$199.99 at Sharkclean

$199.99 at Amazon

We Tried It

Shark FlexBreeze Fan

A versatile indoor and outdoor fan with a misting attachment

$199.99 at Sharkclean

$199.99 at Amazon

Product Features

The FlexBreeze’s versatility makes it uniqueit truly does it all as far as fans go. It functions both corded and cordless and has a remote control that attaches discretely and conveniently to the fan. You can choose from five different fan speeds and 180 degrees of side-to-side oscillation to cool any room, big or small. The fan tilts up and down, too.

At just over 12 pounds with a large top handle, the FlexBreeze is super portable, so you can haul it around to any room in the house and anywhere in the yard. Its UV- and water-resistant, so you dont have to worry about the elements impacting it, and its surprisingly quiet, so its perfect for sleeping.

The fan has a boost mode that lets you feel its breeze from over 70 feet away, and the misting attachment easily connects to any hose to make an area feel up to 10 degrees cooler.

The FlexBreeze is available in dark grey and has fine rose gold detailing, making it look top-quality, even in an indoor living space. Plus, its backed by a two-year warranty against defects in material or workmanship.

How We Tested It

The Shark FlexBreeze arrived at my doorstep in a medium-sized box. Plenty of protective packaging ensured the fan arrived in pristine condition. Inside the box: The fan, remote, misting attachment and charging cord. I simply pulled the fan from the box and put the pieces together to set it up as a pedestal fan. Theres no assembly required apart from connecting the pieces to use the FlexBreeze as a pedestal fan or tabletop fan.

Upon unboxing, I was immediately impressed by the fan’s lookdark gray with gold hardwareand blown away by its quietness. I dont think Ive ever operated an outdoor fan as quiet as the Shark FlexBreeze.

In pedestal mode, the fan stands about 36 inches tall, which is perfect for cooling off while sitting down. You can also angle the fan head upward to cool off higher points while standing. I did have to charge it for a few hours before using it unplugged, but once it was charged, I got at least 20 hours out of it in different modes.

With the fan oscillating, it had zero issues cooling my hot kitchen, even while I used the oven on a summer night. In tabletop mode, the fan is great for pups who need to cool off on the floor. It also sits nicely on a desk or counter while working in an office or garage. Want to take it with you? It travels well since its compact and cordless. Its great for camping, and Shark even makes an On-the-go Car Charger for the fan.

The misting attachment is an added luxury, especially for our pups, who absolutely love it while lounging on the deck. But its also great for tropical plants; the monstera on our porch is a big fan, too. The body of the fan isnt bulky at all, either. It takes up little space for as much power as it packs, and the pedestal’s base is heavy enough that you dont have to worry about tipping.

While Shark says you can feel the breeze in boost mode from over 70 feet away, I think the fan is best felt 10-15 feet away in fan speeds 1-5. The misting attachment easily snaps onto the front of the fan, which has discrete tubing that runs down the side of the fan and attaches to your garden hose. Its quick to set up, and the mist is fine enough that you wont get noticeably wet.

FAQ

Is the Shark FlexBreeze worth it?

We think so! The fans adaptability to any environment automatically makes it a smart value if you need a fan for indoor and outdoor spaces. Plus, its powerful enough to cool just about any room, has a misting attachment, is surprisingly quiet and looks great.

Does the Shark FlexBreeze oscillate?

It does. It can oscillate and tilt to reach every corner of the room.

What Others Have to Say

Heres what buyers have to say about the Shark FlexBreeze Fan, which has a 4.5-star rating on Amazon.

Verified purchaser Megan Dunigan says, The Shark FlexBreeze is a top contender in the portable fan market, offering robust build quality, excellent battery life, and powerful performance. It’s an excellent choice for anyone looking to stay cool at outdoor events or even just in different areas of their home without the hassle of cords. Its ability to charge while in use ensures uninterrupted comfort, making it a reliable companion on hot days. Highly recommended for those seeking a blend of convenience and effectiveness in their cooling solutions.

Angie D gives it five stars, too. I love Shark products for their quality and ease of use. I have so many in my home, but [I] was initially skeptical when I ordered this. So many brands claim their fans are quiet and are still super loud even on the lowest setting But oh my GOSH this fan is quiet, they say. Worth every single penny. I also recommend purchasing the fan cover to keep it clean when not in use during the off season. Very easy to get on and off and keeps your fan dust free. Thank you Shark for making the best fan on the market!

Final Verdict

I’m sold after using the Shark FlexBreeze for a few months (the hottest months of the year). Its versatility, long battery life, cool mist attachment and sleek look are worth the price tag.

If youre in the market for a portable outdoor fan, the Shark FlexBreeze is my favorite one Ive tried. If you are looking exclusively for an indoor fan and dont need a misting attachment, you might opt for a tower fan like the Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan. However, the FlexBreeze performs great indoors, too.

Where to Buy the Shark FlexBreeze

MARY HENN/FAMILY HANDYMAN

$199.99 at Sharkclean

$199.99 at Amazon

We Tried It

Shark FlexBreeze Fan

A portable fan that can be plugged in or run on battery life

$199.99 at Sharkclean

$199.99 at Amazon

The Shark FlexBreeze Fan retails for $200 at Shark or Amazon. For $10 more at Shark, you can bundle it with a storage cover or car charger. You can also save $30 if you want to skip the cool mist attachment.

The post We Tried the New Shark FlexBreeze Fan, and We’re Blown Away appeared first on Family Handyman.

The concrete pads underair conditionerand heat exchanger units tend to settle over the years. As long as theres no strain on the copper coolant tubes and electrical lines, and the unit stays dry and level, its OK that the air conditioning concrete pad has sunk. But if the concrete air conditioning pad continues to sink and pulls the lines tight, or if water puddles around the unit, youll need to take action.

It’s important to address the issue. A sinking, uneven pad can cause additional strain on your unit because of the extra vibration. A sinking pad can also lead to broken pipes and tubes as well as water pooling up because it can’t drain properly. As with most repairs, you want to address this issue as soon as possible, before it gets worse and leads to bigger problems.

How To Fix a Sinking Air Conditioner Pad

Try working a long board under one end of the concrete air conditioning pad, lifting it up, then packing sand under it. Do the same on the other end of the concrete air conditioning pad, making the pad as level as possible. Lift the concrete air conditioning pad slowly to avoid cracking it.

You shouldn’t need to unhook or remove the condenser unit, but if you do, it might be time to call for pro help.

When To Call a Pro

If the concrete pad breaks apart, you’ll probably have to disconnect the unit. If that’s the case, I would recommend calling a professional HVAC technician to disconnect it for you.

If you’re comfortable working with concrete, you can finish breaking up the pad and remove it. Then, install a new leveled-in one. Consider replacing it with a plastic pad. Theyre available where air conditioners are sold and online.

Another option is to hire concrete professionals to build a new pad for you. They can make sure that it stays level for years to come.

The post What To Do About a Sinking Air Conditioner Pad appeared first on Family Handyman.

I was eager to test the all-new Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan MC710S early this summer to beat the heat and share my findings. Below, Ill give you the rundown on the new air-purifying fan and how it performed in my hot house. If youre looking for other ways to keep your bedroom cool while you sleep, check out my review of the best cooling bed sheets.

What is the Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan?

To say I was curious when I heard Dreo released a smart purifying tower fan is an understatement. Dreo has made some of the best-selling tower fans on Amazon in recent years, and I was in the market for one. (Bonus points for it being a 2-in-1 air purifier and tower fan.)

Unlike most other air purifying fans, the Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan has a dual motor that allows it to function as both a purifier and fan simultaneously and exclusively as a fan or air purifier. The best part? Its designed to rival competitor purifying tower fans like those from Dyson but at a fraction of the price. Its also designed to offer more air speed at lower noise levels.

The dual filtration system is outfitted with HEPA filters, and the whole tower can be controlled through the Dreo app. The app allows you to monitor a rooms temperature and air quality while changing and scheduling the tower’s functions. And if youre not into apps, theres a traditional handheld remote for easy use, and you can always use the buttons on the top of the tower.

VIA MERCHANT

Shop at Dreo

$269.99 at Amazon

We Tried It

Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan

A 2-in-1 device that cools the room while cleaning the air.

Shop at Dreo

$269.99 at Amazon

Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan Product Features

The stand-out feature that makes the Dreo Purifier Tower Fan unique is the dual-motor design, which allows independent cooling and air purification settings. The dual motors deliver airflow up to 27 feet per second with a maximum distance of 39 feet to cool the entire room. The HEPA filters catch 99.97% of small particles, while the pre-filter traps catch large particles from the air.

There are 12 different wind speeds, three purification levels and three oscillation settings, including symmetric, asymmetric and targeted airflow. You can adjust the oscillation angle in increments of five degrees so that the fan cools the exact area you need to be cooled with precision. Theres also an ultra-quiet sleep mode for nighttime cooling.

The Dreo app lets you control the fan remotely while viewing the rooms temperature and air quality when you’re out of the room. You can pair it with Alexa and Google Home for added features like voice control. The device is nearly 47 inches tall and has a diameter of about 11 inches. It weighs just under 18 pounds.

How We Tested It

The Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan arrived at my front door in a large, long box. The box was a bit intimidating at first, but setting up the fan required removing it from the box and plugging it in once it was open.

From there, you can use the fan immediately with the remote control or download the DREO app and pair the fan with your smartphone. The app gives you more control settings that you can access from anywhere. The app combines the buttons on the fans remote control with the information displayed on its touchscreen, like the rooms air quality and temperature, data reports, and the remaining filter life of the fan. The app also lets you set detailed schedules for the fan, pair the fan with your existing smart home devices, control the oscillation angle and purification level, set a child lock on the device, change the display settings and more. It may seem like a lot for a fan, but the app makes using the fan super easy. I also like the overall look and functionality of the appits design makes it simple to use, and I havent yet experienced any hiccups or glitches.

The smart tower fan puts out a significant amount of air. It has 12 wind speeds, and I rarely go past level 10, even on the hottest days. I tend to leave the air purification setting on auto so that it adjusts to the air quality reading. One of the most impressive features of the tower fan is its quietness. The fan can function at 25 decibels, which is barely audible, and the fan and air purifier can function together at 38 decibels, somewhere between a whisper and light rain. Even on the highest settings, I dont find the fan to be loud at all. I like the static noise it puts out, providing a bit of white noise to help my baby sleep at night.

Ive only encountered two issues in the first few months of using the Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan. Sometimes, the fan gets caught up while oscillating. Its nothing major, but Ive noticed that the device momentarily gets stuck when in oscillation mode. The pause is never more than a second or two, but its worth noting. Additionally, Ive wondered whether the temperature reading on the device is totally accurate. With an infant, we monitor each bedroom’s temperature and humidity level with a precise digital device. Occasionally, there will be a discrepancy in the temperature reading between that device and the fan (sometimes as much as 2-3 degrees), even when the two are sitting side by side.

Pros

• High-speed fan with quiet function
• Dual-motor design
• Purifier and fan work individually
• H13 HEPA filter
• Multi-color air quality indicator
• Smart control
• Touchscreen interface
• Easy to set up and turn on
• 12 fan speeds
• 3 purification levels and an auto-purification mode
• 3 oscillation modes
• Oscillation angle can be adjusted
• Sleep mode with quiet function
• Works with Alexa and Google Home
• App is easy to use
• Remote control included
• Carrying handle helps transport from room to room
• Easy to clean

Cons

• Occasionally stalls in oscillation mode
• Room temperature readings may not be 100% accurate
• Not Energy Star certified

FAQ

Do Dreo fans cool the room?

The Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan certainly does! I use it in our medium-sized primary bedroom to help keep my infant (who sleeps in a bedside bassinet) and me cool throughout the night. It cools the entire room and makes us comfortable without issues.

Are Dreo fans quiet?

Yes. Most fans in the Dreo product family operate around 28 decibels on the lowest wind speed settings. While the air purifying system adds a bit of noise when combined with the fan, its still quiet.

How does the Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan compare to the Dyson TP09?

With a 4.5-star rating on Amazon, many buyers compare the Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan to the Dyson TP09.

One five-star reviewer, Ctran, says the Dreo tower fan is taller than the Dyson TP09 and very quiet in comparison to the Dyson. Ctran also says the Dreo fan has a much stronger air output than the Dyson TP09. Additionally, they note that the Dreo fan is significantly cheaper than the Dyson tower fan.

Another review from verified purchaser BD reads: Bought this to supplement my AC and ceiling fans in the hot Georgia summers. Fan provides excellent breeze across a 20-foot room. The ability to adjust the oscillation symmetrically and asymmetrically allows the tower to be placed in any position of the room and still cover all areas. I can’t comment too much on the filtration systems efficiency, however I have witnessed it kick on when cleaning. It automatically detects chemicals in the air and attempts to clean them.

Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan vs. DREO Tower Fan

If youre wondering how the Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan compares to the brands popular standard tower fan, the biggest difference is in the name. One has an air purifying feature, while the other doesnt.

However, the Dreo Tower Fan has more than 26,000 reviews on Amazon with a 4.6-star rating, and it retails for just $70. It also functions at similar quiet noise levels with high windspeeds, oscillates and has timer functions. While you wont get the same smart features (such as app control or smart home pairing), its a compact option at a fraction of the price. While I prefer the overall look and functionality of the Air Purifier Tower Fan, the regular Dreo Tower Fan is an excellent budget-saving pick, especially if you already have another air purifying device.

Final Verdict

If youve been looking for a 2-in-1 air purifier fan, the Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan is a top contender. Its quiet, effective and relatively affordable compared to similar products from competitor brands. Plus, the fan and purifier operate independently for different uses. Its smart features allow for voice and app control, and it has an H13 HEPA filter that traps small particles to help maintain your air quality.

Ive been pleasantly surprised by the Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan and would recommend it to anyone looking for a 2-in-1 air purifier fan.

Where to Buy the Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan

VIA MERCHANT

Shop at Dreo

$269.99 at Amazon

We Tried It

Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan

An ultra-quiet, air-purifying tower fan with smart features.

Shop at Dreo

$269.99 at Amazon

The Dreo Air Purifier Tower Fan is available on Amazon for $300 or directly from Dreo for the same price. Dreo offers free shipping, a 30-month extended warranty, and a 30-day money-back guarantee if you dont like the fan.

The post Dreo Tower Fan Review: This New Smart Fan Keeps You Cool While Purifying the Air appeared first on Family Handyman.