What Might Cause a Fireplace to Burn Low?

Fire needs ample fuel and oxygen to thrive. So if your fireplace is burning low, it’s not receiving enough of at least one of those. Common factors causing that are wet wood, a clogged chimney or vents that are closed too far.

“If a fireplace burns low occasionally and you didn’t experiment with woods, the cause is most likely a clogged chimney or flue that restricts airflow,” says Jon Gilbertson, president of Chris Heating & Cooling. “If your fireplace started burning low after you switched to another wood, then the new wood is likely wet or unseasoned, and too much moisture doesn’t allow the fire to reach optimal heat levels.”

The post Ways To Increase the Heat From Your Wood-Burning Fireplace appeared first on Family Handyman.

Damaged Plumbing Vent Boots

Plumbing vents help regulate air pressure to the plumbing fixtures in your home and help gases escape. The plumbing vent bootsare the piece that fits around the vent; its job is to keep water out, preventing leaks and protecting your roof. Vent boots can be all plastic, plastic and metal, or even two-piece metal units. These boots should last around 15 years, maybe as long as 30 years, but you should regularly inspect them for damage.

Check plastic bases for cracks and metal bases for broken seams. Then examine the rubber boot surrounding the pipe. That can be rotted away or torn, allowing water to work its way into the house along the pipe. With any of these problems, you should buy a new vent boot to replace the old one. But if the nails at the base are missing or pulled free and the boot is in good shape, replace them with the rubber-washered screws used for metal roofing systems.

The post 26 Silent Signs That Your House Has a Serious Problem appeared first on Family Handyman.

It requires just a few inexpensive supplies and a few minutes of your time every couple of weeks.

A Hack to Stop Window Condensation

TikTok user @blooms_abode posted a quick solution to control mold growth around windows.

The hack starts by fully opening window curtains and blinds to allow complete access. Next, leave a jar of bicarbonate soda bicarb on the windowsill to absorb moisture. Every two weeks, use a mold spray and cleaning rag to run along the window to clean off any growth.

And thats it!

@blooms_abode

You NEED this. #condensation #condensationhack #hacks #fyp #foryoupage #cleaning #cleantok

Christmas Is Coming – DM Production

Causes of Condensation in Windows

Condensation on windows happens when warm, moist air comes into contact with a cold surface, like a window pane. The air cools down, and the moisture in it turns into tiny water droplets, which is what you see on the glass.

This is especially common in colder months when indoor air is warmer and more humid compared to the chilly outside air. It can also occur if there’s a lot of moisture in your homethink cooking, showering, or even plants releasing water vapor. If the humidity inside your house is too high, it makes it more likely for condensation to form, even when your windows are closed.

Is Mold on Windows Dangerous?

Mold on windows can indeed be a concern, especially if left unchecked. While it might start as a small patch, mold can spread to other areas and release spores into the air, which isnt ideal for indoor air quality.

For some people, especially those with allergies, asthma, or compromised immune systems, exposure to mold spores can lead to symptoms like coughing, sneezing, eye irritation, or even respiratory issues. Even if youre not sensitive to mold, its still a good idea to clean it up as soon as you spot it, since it can damage surfaces over time and lead to staining.

Keeping your windows dry and controlling indoor humidity can help prevent mold from forming in the first place.

The post This Simple Hack Stops Condensation on Your Windows appeared first on Family Handyman.

Stair runners are useful to minimize noise and reduce the risk of slipping. If you have hardwood steps, consider this stair runner project you can do in a weekend.

This project was created by Jen Woodhouse, a Kentucky mom who had her familys (and pets) needs in mind. “We have an 11-year-old, 100-pound Rhodesian Ridgeback named Watson. Going up and down the hardwood stairs was getting pretty scary for him and for me, she says.

Woodhouses stair runner project takes a weekend to finish. Here is the step-by-step.

Prep the stairs

Since the wood has been unfinished for over a year, the stairs were looking pretty grimy from the daily foot traffic. There were scuffs, spots and drips, so I sanded each stair tread with 120-grit sandpaper to get back down to raw wood. This also opens up the wood fibers so that the oil finish can easily penetrate the surface.

After about 30 minutes of sanding, the wood looks clean and brand-new again!

Pro Tip: How to Fill Nail Holes

Nail holes need to be filled, but wood filler doesnt usually take stain or finish very well and you end up with ugly splotches of wood filler that doesnt match the rest of the wood tones. Heres a little trick I learned from my contractor friend, Josh, that minimizes the discrepancy between the wood filler and the natural wood tones.

Apply a base layer of stain, finish or whatever youre working withfirst, let it dry, and then apply the wood fillerafter. I also try to wipe away any excess and surrounding wood filler with a damp rag to get as much of the wood filler off the wood as possible. This way, Im decreasing the area that the wood filler is in contact with the wood so the difference between the filler and wood tones is a lot less noticeable.

The post Install a Stair Runner For A Revitalized and Safer Staircase appeared first on Family Handyman.

@c.c.woodwork Things you find Part 1 #stuffedanimals #beaniebabies #reducereuserecycle original sound – Connor Nijsse

The first video chronicles Nijsse and his team as they discovered just how many stuffed animals were in the walls. Up until this portion of the wall, it appears that they had just been finding the expected insulation, but the final three channels held a surprise. You can see that the team didn’t expect the stuffed animals to go from floor to ceiling. With just the top portion of the wall removed, it almost looks like the toys were hidden in the wall, not serving an actual purpose. But as the team removed more and more of the wall, it became clear what was actually going on.

Once the team discovered the stuffed animals, they knew they had to count them. How many could there possibly be, right? The answer is 110, stuffed into plastic bags.

Why Is Insulation Important?

Insulation helps your home stay cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Walls and a roof can only do so much to protect you from temperature extremes. You need that extra layer to lock in your climate-controlled air, both for the sake of your wallet and your own comfort.

Can I Use Stuffed Animals As Insulation?

Generally, insulation is light, fluffy and porous, so it makes sense that someone who couldn’t get their hands on enough of the more common kinds might think to try to supplement it with stuffed animals. However, we don’t recommend you do the same. If you’re looking to insulate your walls, stick to one of the more common types you can purchase at building centers:

• Fiberglass
• Cellulose
• Mineral Wool
• Rigid Foam
• Polyurethane Spray Foam
• Pipe Insulation

These materials are designed to be safer and more efficient in your walls, giving you the energy savings you want without posing as much of a fire hazard as stuffed animals.

The post Teddy Bear Insulation? Man Uncovers Unusual Wall Stuffing During Reno appeared first on Family Handyman.

Bare Wood

When you’re prepping for a trim project, the first thing youll have to decide is what types of trim you want to use. The most prevalent types of trim include bare wood, primed wood, medium-density fiberboard, polystyrene and PVC trim. You should use bare wood if you want to stain it or have a natural wood look. There is a wide range of wood types available, from poplar to pine to fir to oak to aspen.

The post The 15 Types of Trim You Need to Know for Your Next Remodel Project appeared first on Family Handyman.

Such confusion about home insurance vs. flood insurance is alarmingly common, says Sebastian Hov, CEO of 18 Insurance. FEMA estimates only 4% of US homeowners have flood insurance, even though 99 percent of US counties have been impacted by flooding since 1996. That stat is even more saddening for those areas outside of Florida that were hit by Hurricane Helen, where only 1 percent of homeowners who sustained flooding had flood insurance.

“This lack of coverage is usually due to a false sense of security among homeowners who aren’t in designated high-risk zones,” says Hov.

If you’re unsure about the difference between home insurance vs. flood insurance, and whether you need the extra coverage, here’s what to know and how to decide.

What’s the Difference Between Flood Insurance and Homeowner’s Insurance?

The main difference between home insurance vs. flood insurance is that while homeowners’ policies typically cover a broad range of events from fires to theft, they specifically do not cover flood damage. Instead, flood insurance must be purchased separately, as a standalone policy or as an endorsement to your existing policy.

Flood Insurance Coverage

Most flood insurance coverage includes damage from flooding caused by:

• Heavy rain
• Melting snow
• Overflow of inland or tidal waters
• Mudslides or mudflows caused by flooding
• Collapse of land along the lakeshore
• Any other unusual accumulation of runoff or surface waters

The types of damage to your home that flood insurance typically covers include:

• Structural damage to the building and its foundation
• Electrical and plumbing systems
• Refrigerators and built-in appliances
• Personal property (if contents coverage is included)

Homeowner Insurance Coverage

Most homeowners’ insurance coverage includes:

• Burst pipes, leaky roofs and appliance overflows
• Fire damage
• Theft
• Wind damage
• Ice damming damage
• Water backup/sump pump failure (usually optional)

However, “There are many levels of coverage for homeowner insurance depending on what you purchase and or qualify for due to the condition of your home,” says Colleen Parsons, an independent insurance broker with World Insurance. So, make sure to check with your agent about coverage specifics.

Do I Need Flood Insurance?

You definitely need flood insurance if your mortgage company requires it. If you don’t have a mortgage but live in an area considered high-risk for flooding, it’s also a wise choice to get it.

“However, it’s becoming increasingly important for all homeowners due to climate change and increasing development in flood zones,” says Hov.

So even if you don’t live in a flood zone, you might consider getting flood insurance, especially as floods that were once considered 100- or thousand-year events are now getting more common.

To check if you’re in a high-risk zone, check with your local town or city hall, which will have access to a flood map, ask your insurance agent or see FEMA’s Flood Map Service Center. Zones starting with A and V are considered high-risk. Zones starting with B, C and X are low to moderate risk.

“Everyone is technically in a flood zone. However, the flood map will determine if you are at a higher risk for it,” says Parsons. “For example, Zones A or AE are at the highest risk of a flood, meaning those areas have a 1% annual chance of flooding and 26 percent chance over a 30-year mortgage.”

How Much Does Flood Insurance Cost?

It varies widely, from around $500 to more than $5,000 a year, depending on where you live, your flood risk, how much insurance you need and whether you get it through a private operator vs. the National Flood Insurance Program NFIP).

Based on the 2024 National Flood Insurance Program rates, the average cost in the US is $819 per year. However, says Hov, recent changes to the NFIP’s pricing model may lead to significant rate increases for some policyholders.

If you live in a high-risk area, you may be able to obtain an elevation certificate to help lower the cost, says Parsons. This is a somewhat lengthy process that will likely require a land or engineer survey. She suggests first checking with your insurance company to confirm whether this is a viable option.

For renters, flood insurance can be much cheaper, with rates as low as $99 a year for contents-only coverage, says Hov.

About the Experts

• Sebastian Hov is the CEO of 18 Insurance, an independent agency based in California.
• Colleen Parsons is an independent insurance broker with World Insurance and has been in the insurance industry for 20 years.

The post Flood vs. Homeowner’s Insurance: Know the Difference Before Disaster Strikes appeared first on Family Handyman.

Gaines explains that her favorite way to cover up scuffs, screw holes, and other wall damage is to hang pictures up. “When one of your children drill like 9 too many screws in the wall, here’s a design hack: just cover it w/ a cute pic,” she captioned a December 2023 Instagram reel documenting her process.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Joanna Gaines (@joannagaines)

You can transform an unsightly, damaged wall into an art gallery with an afternoon’s worth of time and a little creativity.

Step 1: Plan

First, you’ll want to plan out your wall. Measure the damaged portion or portions you want to cover to determine the size of the frames.

If you want to cover a large portion of your wall, you can cut stencils out of butcher paper to tape to the wall as you plan the final look. If you only have one or two sections to cover, you can skip straight ahead to hanging the frames.

Step 2: Hang the Frames

Once you know how many frames you want up and where they’re going to be, it’s time to hang the frames. Decide how you want them hung: you can use Command Strips or rely on the rings, wires, or other hangers already on your frames.

Play around with the space to get a feel for what will best support the weight of a given frame while still looking nice.

Step 3: Pick Your Pictures

Now, decide what images you want in your frames. Thrift stores are a great place to get old prints and paintings if you prefer a more eclectic look, or the new frames can hold family photos you love and want to display proudly.

If you’re going for a gallery wall look, you may even want to frame some wallpaper with fun prints to break up the photos and add visual interest. Your children can even make their artistic debut and create the art for you to frame!

The post Joanna Gaines’s Hack for Covering Wall Damage Is So Quick and Easy appeared first on Family Handyman.

But do they actually work?

No problem there, says interior designer Jodi Peterman. “They are a great solution for lightweight to medium-weight curtains.” Real estate investor Robert Shepard agrees, but he cautions to choose wisely. Several different types are available, and they can’t all handle the same weight. And when it comes to super-heavy soundproofing or blackout curtains, you’re probably better off with conventional brackets.

Here’s a rundown of the types of no-drill curtain rod brackets available and when to use them.

What Are No-Drill Curtain Rod Brackets?

The name says it all. No-drill curtain rod brackets can support curtains without the help of fasteners driven into the drywall. “How do they do that?” you ask. Well, that depends on the type of brackets you choose.

Types of No-Drill Curtain Rod Brackets

Some no-drill curtain rod hangers hook onto the window casing or onto blinds already mounted in the window, some stick to the drywall or window casing and some are spring-loaded and anchor themselves to the inside of the window frame by tension.

Tap Brackets

These metal brackets fit around the corners of the window casing and have support pins that you tap into the casing with a hammer. For long windows, there’s a center bracket with pinned wings on either side.

The best-known (and maybe only) brand is Kwik-Hang. “They work with any wooden window frame that’s at least 1/2 inch wide and can hold up to 20 lbs, making them both sturdy and renter-friendly,” says Peterman.

• How they work: You set the bracket in place on the corner or center of the window casing and tap the pins into the wood with a hammer. It’s simpleit takes just a few minutes. When it’s time to remove them, you simply pry them up with a screwdriver.

Self-Adhesive Hangers

These hangers are treated with a strong adhesive that instantly bonds to any flat surface. The most common brand is Command, but there are others. Shepherd says they can hold lightweight curtain rods and are “particularly popular among renters who want to avoid wall damage.”

• How they work: Remove the backing from the hanger, set it on a clean, flat surface and press down, and the hanger remains in place until you remove it.

Magnetic Hangers

If you have metal windows or window casings, magnetic hangers may be just what you need. “They are extendable and can be adjusted to fit various window sizes,” says Shepherd.

• How they work: Magnetic hangers attach themselves automatically to any metal surface, and the magnetic attraction is strong enough to support lightweight curtains.

Tension Rods

You’ve probably seen these used for shower curtains, and you may already be using them in your own bathroom. They also work to hang curtains in your windows.

• How they work: Tension rods consist of two separate rods, one inserted inside the other and connected by a spring. When you adjust a tension rod to the proper length, you can compress it, fit it inside the window frame, and it will lock against the sides of the frame when you release it.

Mini-Blind Curtain Rods

If you have an existing mini-blind, you can install metal brackets on the header and hang curtains from there. Nono Brackets is a leading brand.

• How they work: The metal brackets have a U-shaped clamp that affixes to the header of the blind. Once secured, you set the curtain rod in the brackets, and the curtain is supported by the blind.

No-Drill Curtain Rod Bracket Pros and Cons

Pros

• Time-saving: Conventional curtain rod brackets in drywall can be installed in 30 minutes, but no-drill brackets usually take less than five minutes.
• Labor-saving: No need to drill, locate wall studs or install screw anchors when you can’t find a stud.
• Inexpensive: You shouldn’t have to pay more than about $20 for each curtain you want to hang.
• Leave no trace: In most cases, you can remove no-drill curtain rods without having to patch the wall.

Cons

• Limited strength: No-drill curtain rods generally can’t support heavy curtains. Tap brackets can support heavier curtains than the others, but they depend on the stability of the window casing.
• Possibility of failure: Adhesive and magnetic rods, as well as tension rods, can fail over time, and the curtains can fall. In particular, adhesive hangers won’t hold well on rough surfaces, such as textured drywall.
• Possible wall damage: When you remove adhesive brackets, they may pull off paint, and tension rods can make indentations in drywall-framed window frames.

Do No-Drill Curtain Rod Brackets Really Work?

Yes, they work, but Shepherd cautions that their effectiveness can vary based on the type of wall or window frame and the weight of the curtains. Tap brackets can support the most weight, but they only work if the window is framed with wood casing.

• Pro tip: Because tap brackets attach directly to the casing, the curtains won’t be level if the casing isn’t level, and you’ll notice a difference in the gap between the bottom of the curtains and the floor.

Are No-Drill Curtain Rod Brackets Right for My Project?

As long as your curtains weigh less than 20 pounds and your windows have wood casing, tap brackets are a no-brainer. They’re easy to install and painless to remove. If your window has no casing but a blind, mini-blind curtain rod brackets are also a good alternative to fixed brackets. On a scale of 1 to 10, I’d give these options 9 or 10.

On the other hand, adhesive brackets and tension rods probably wouldn’t rate higher than 6 or 7. These hangers work, but they aren’t as reliable, and a good tug by one of your kids or pets could bring your curtains crashing down. When it’s time to remove them, the possibility of having to touch up the paint is about fifty-fifty if you aren’t really careful.

No-Drill Curtain Rod Bracket Tips & Tricks

• Affix your window casing securely if you’re going to use tap brackets. If your curtains are on the heavy side, consider adding a few extra nails or, better yet, trim screws.
• Check the level of the top window casing before using tap brackets. If the casing is tilted, shim up the bracket on the low side with cardboard to make the curtain rod level.
• When using a tension rod on a window with a drywall frame, prevent dents by inserting small cardboard squares between the ends of the rod and the frame.
• Before affixing adhesive brackets to a wall or window frame, clean the surface first with alcohol to remove oils and help the brackets adhere better.
• Don’t use adhesive brackets on textured drywall. They adhere best to flat surfaces.

About the Experts

• Robert Shepherd is the founder of Peak & Home Partners, a real estate investment company based in Maryland.
• Jodi Peterman is the CEO of Elizabeth Erin Designs, a premier full-service residential, commercial, and vacation rental interior design firm.

The post Do No-Drill Curtain Rod Brackets Actually Work? appeared first on Family Handyman.

• You can build them yourself.
• They’re dry and warm.
• They’re easy to finish (inside and out).

And because the wood frame construction is relatively simple, they’re easy to alter even after the basement is in. In fact, I added six windows and doors in my walkout basement three years after the house was finished.

Why wood foundations are durable

You won’t find too many unhappy wood foundation owners as long as the installation is done properly. Successful wood foundations depend on using the proper wood, good drainage and waterproofing.

Most people considering a wood foundation are concerned about rot and strength. Foundation-grade wood used in foundations is treated by steam-impregnating it with a chemical called CCA (chromated copper arsenate) at a concentration of at least .6 lbs. of chemical per cubic foot of wood so that the chemical penetrates deep into the core of the wood. The copper part of the compound is toxic to fungus, mold and bacteria, while the arsenate is toxic to pests like carpenter ants and termites.

Long-term durability isn’t an issue with a sound wood foundation. That’s been well documented by the U.S. Dept. of Agriculture’s Forest Service testing. Proper construction techniques are everything. When wood foundations fail, it’s always a case of poor construction techniques. The key elements are properly sized sheathing and framing, secure floor tie-ins and proper drainage.

Strength is a matter of engineering

Strength is simply a matter of following the guidelines in the wood foundation manual by the Southern Pine Council. Framing member widths and spacing, as well as sheathing thickness, depend mostly on backfill height. The deeper into the ground, the stronger the wall needs to be. In our example below, 2x8s are spaced every 16 inches with 5/8-in. sheathing, with the wall resting on 2x10s, which in turn rest on an 8-inch thick gravel footing.

The concrete floor resists ground pressure at the bottom, while the top is anchored to the floor system above with joist hangers and clips. This design is acceptable for most normal-height backfill scenarios. Any and all water will filter through the gravel backfill, footings and under-slab fill where a perforated sump basket collects it for pumping away from the house, or drained to daylight if your home’s on a hill.

Wood Foundation Details

Wood foundations require foundation-grade pressure-treated wood, studs sized for soil pressure, the proper fasteners, solid gravel footings, damp-proofing and good drainage.

The post Wood Foundation Basics and Techniques appeared first on Family Handyman.

“Beyond the beauty, they also provide an acoustic bounce effect that concrete alone can’t achieve,” says Geoff Walker, superintendent at ASAP Restoration. “The feel of wood floors is also a huge draw since they are pleasing to the touch and not a cold shock the way concrete can be.”

It’s not hard to install wood floors over concrete. But if it’s not done correctly, it can be a disaster. Here’s how to avoid those pitfalls on your way to a new, warm wood finish.

Why Install Wood Floors Over Concrete?

There are several reasons to install a wood floor over concrete, including the fact that wood doesn’t transfer cold as readily, creating a warm and inviting feeling, both aesthetically and literally.

“If your home is built on a slab of concrete, installing wood floors can liven up the home and add an appealing design,” says Rotem Eylor, founder of Republic Floor. “It’s also durable and low maintenance.”

What Do You Put Between Concrete and Wood Floors?

You should always install a moisture barrier between concrete and wood flooring to prevent moisture buildup, which could lead to mold, staining or warping. Depending on what type of wood floor you’re using, that may be poly plastic sheeting (aka Visqueen) or glue with a built-in moisture barrier. Flooring manufacturers usually provide recommendations to guide you in the right direction.

Floating wood flooring usually calls for a plastic barrier, says Chad Thielk, a home improvement expert with JustAnswer.com. Some flooring manufacturers also require the use of their specific brand of moisture barrier for the warranty to be valid.

If the flooring calls for glue, use the specific glue recommended by the manufacturer. “If you were to just use regular wood floor adhesive, the moisture that is naturally in the concrete will be absorbed by the wood, which can cause issues,” says Thielk.

How To Install Wood Floors Over Concrete

• Remove any existing floor covering, if there is one.
• Remove any debris that could cause the wood to not lie evenly.
• Sweep and mop to remove as much dust as possible.
• Level any low spots (greater than 1/4 inch) with a self-leveling product. Check for low spots with a long straight tool like a level, says Thielk.
• Remove the base shoe, baseboards and any trim that might be in the way.
• Mask off areas that might be damaged by sealant, like walls and outlets.
• Install the moisture/vapor barrier on top of the concrete, according to manufacturer instructions.
• Add the sub-flooring layer. Typically, this is in. plywood sheeting that then serves as a base to attach the wood flooring onto,” says Walker.
• You may also want to install an underlayment, like foam, says Eylor.
• Install the wood flooring according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Thielk recommends acclimating the flooring by setting it in the room you are installing it in at least 48 hours beforehand and drawing or chalking lines on the floor to keep your installation straight.
• Leave at least a 1/4 to 1/2 inch gap between the flooring and the sill plate to allow for wood expansion. “If you fail to do this, then the floors will buckle and pop,” says Walker.
• Reinstall the trim pieces, baseboard and any shoe that was removed.
• Caulk any base shoe or baseboard that comes into contact with the flooring for a completed look and to protect against water damage.

FAQ

Can you put wood flooring directly on concrete?

Yes, but you’ll need to also install a moisture barrier to prevent mold or water damage. Depending on what the wood flooring manufacturer recommends, the barrier may be plastic or a special glue.

What’s the best type of wood flooring to put over concrete?

Eylor says engineered wood flooring is generally best since it is less sensitive to changes in temperature and humidity.

But “as long as you use a proper vapor barrier and subflooring material, you can choose any type of wood flooring option you like, from engineered planks to natural hardwood,” says Walker.

How do you install wood flooring over uneven concrete?

You’ll need to first flatten the surface by removing any debris causing high points, then use a self-leveler to fill any low points deeper than 1/4 inch. You’ll probably also need to use a self-leveling product primer first.

Can you install engineered wood flooring over concrete?

Yes, but you’ll need a moisture barrier. Some engineered wood floorings have a moisture barrier pre-installed on the back side. Others require a special glue or a separate plastic barrier.

About the Experts

• Geoff Walker is a company superintendent at ASAP Restoration in Tempe, Arizona, and has nearly 50 years of experience in the home repair field.
• Chad Thielk is a third-generation construction worker. He started in the industry at age 15 and worked for a commercial remodeling company before becoming a home improvement expert with JustAnswer.com, the on-demand platform for 24/7 help from pros.
• Rotem Eylor is an entrepreneur and hands-on CEO and founder of Republic Floor, a top 10 US manufacturer and distributor of hard surfaces. He is also a member of the Forbes Business Council.

The post Can You Install a Wood Floor Over Concrete? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Adjusting your door for the winter

As the mercury starts to drop, it’s time to close the glass panel on your storm door. When you do that, be sure to place the connecting pin in the front hole of the closer tube (closest to the door bracket). This increases the closing pressure on the door in the last few inches of travel to ensure that the door latch snaps into the catch. If you don’t adjust the pin, the door won’t shut all the way and you’ll have a drafty house, not to mention a higher heating bill.

Adjusting your storm door for summer

When the screens are down and the glass is up, place the connecting pin in the rearhole of the closer tube (farthest from the door bracket). Now, instead of slamming shut, the door will slow down as it nears the door catch.

Adjusting the closer

The post Here’s Why Your Storm Door Closer Has Two Screw Holes appeared first on Family Handyman.

Is Efflorescence Bad For Brick?

A small amount of efflorescence is common. But if the amount of efflorescence on your chimney is excessive, it may cause concern.

Some efflorescence could be caused by rainfall soaking into the brick. But more likelyand more seriousthe problem is moisture in warm air from inside the house condensing on the chimney’s interior during cold weather. Or, even more alarming, your flue liner is cracked or broken and moist combustion gases from your furnace and water heater are leaking out onto the cold brick and condensing. This is a bad condition that will cause rapid brick-and-mortar deterioration.

What Should I Do If I See Efflorescence?

We recommend that you have your chimney inspected by a licensed heating contractor or certified chimney sweep before the heating season begins this year. Either one will tell you whether you must install a new chimney flue or liner or point to any other moisture source that may be causing the excessive efflorescence.

The post How to Handle Efflorescence on Brick Chimneys appeared first on Family Handyman.

Metal roofs are fire-resistant, so you may earn a discount on your homeowner’s insurance. They also look nicewhich can improve curb appealand melting snow easily slides off, eliminating the extra weight on the roof. All in all, installing metal roofing is a sound investment for your home.

Metal roofs can be special-ordered in various colors at lumberyards and roof supply companies. Edco (shown in the photo) and Tamko both make interlocking metal roofing panels that you can install with clips and roofing nails. The systems have specially designed starter strips, valleys, gable trim flashing and flashing for dormers, chimneys and skylights. Each panel interlocks with the underlying and adjacent panels or with the flashing.

Manufacturers say homeowners’ most common questions are about the potential for noise. Don’t worry; rain hitting a metal roof won’t be noticeably louder than rain on an asphalt roof, so you don’t need to worry about stormy nights becoming a nuisance.

Metal Shingle Roof Cost

Metal roofs cost about $250 per square (1 square = 100 square feet). If you plan to install the metal roofing yourself, the average roof would cost about $4,000. This is significantly less than hiring a contractor to install three-tab shingles. And while the price of materials is six times as much as low-end three-tab asphalt shingles, which start at $35 to $40 per square, metal roofs last 50 years or more, so you won’t have to worry about reroofing.

The post What To Know About Long-Lasting Metal Roof Panels appeared first on Family Handyman.

Whats Involved in How to Install Metal Roofing

A steel roof is a lifetime investment, lasting 50 years or more if its a good one. Asphalt roofs typically last 20 to 30 years, depending on the installation and shingle quality. So, the investment might be worth it, but the range of choices makes shopping for a steel roofing system more complicated than you might think.

If you want to install steel over asphalt, your best choice for installing metal roofing is to use a steel shingle system like the one shown instead of the more common (and more expensive) standing seam steel. In a standing seam roof, long, single panels run vertically all the way from the eave to the ridge. In contrast, steel shingles are small panels installed in horizontal rows much like other shingles.

Better steel shingle systems, like the one shown, are installed over a framework of 2x2s. This framework has three big advantages. First, because the frame is screwed directly to the rafters and the interlocked shingles are screwed to the frame, the roof can withstand winds of up to 120 mph without damage. Second, the frame creates a flat and straight surface even when the shingles are badly curled or the roof ridge is bowed.

Finally, the frame creates a ventilation gap that helps prevent ice dams in the winter and cools the roof and the house in the summer. To vent the roof, holes are cut in the old roof above the soffit, which pulls air through the soffit vents underneath. Cool outside air then travels under the shingles to the vented ridge, pulling out moisture and heat.

Pros and Cons for Metal Roofing Installation

Steel roofs can be noisy and unattractive in residential settings. However, if the steel roof is installed over an existing asphalt roof, noise shouldnt be a problem. And, as you can see from the photos, if you pick a good-looking style from the many choices available, your house definitely wont look like a cattle barn.

A steel roof is expensive, but if it lasts the life of your home, it might be worth it. The type we show here costs about twice as much to have installed as a new asphalt roof. However, some steel shingle manufacturers offer do-it-yourself systems that cost about the same as an installed asphalt roof for those who want to learn how to install a metal roof on their own. These systems arent attached to a frame but are instead installed directly on the old roof. Consequently, they dont have the same ventilation advantages.

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There are plenty of reasons why you might want to attach a mailbox to your home. The most obvious is that it makes retrieving your mail more convenient than walking to your curb, especially in the winter! (However, if you have a curbside mailbox and want to replace it with a mounted mailbox, you must get permission from your mail carrier first.) If you already have a wall-mounted mailbox, you may consider an upgrade to boost your curb appeal or to accommodate more mail and packages.

Common exterior house materials include brick, stucco, wood, and vinyl. Every building material uses different methods with unique installation requirements, which will determine the materials needed and steps for the project.

• For a brick house, youll need to use a masonry drill bit and masonry screws to secure the mailbox.
• Installing a mailbox onto stucco is similar to the brick method and requires predrilling a hole with a masonry drill bit. You also need to add silicone into the predrilled hole, insert an anchor, and then fasten a concrete screw.
• When mounting a mailbox on wood siding, predrill and fasten a cedar surface mounting block with exterior screws. Then secure the mailbox to the mounting block with screws. You should always use exterior screws to prevent corrosion and rust, which can cause the screw to break eventually.
• Installation on vinyl siding requires using hooks specifically made for vinyl without causing damage since drilling through vinyl is not recommended.

Whatever the case may be, this project’s cost will vary depending on the type of mailbox purchased. I opted for a middle-of-the-road mailbox suitable for enduring Midwest weather. I had limited location options for placing the mailbox., but I tried to keep everything looking symmetrical by aligning the mailbox underneath the house numbers.

Choose the location

Depending on your location, the United States Postal Service (USPS) and some HOAs have mandatory guidelines for mailbox placement, which can be found on the USPS website. Once you are familiar with these guidelines, choose a location near your main entrance that is easy for the mail carrier to find and access.

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A quick way to boost your curb appeal is to give your front door a makeover. The best way to paint a door will always be to take it off its hinges. However, if you’re feeling time-pressed or nervous about getting the door on and off its hingesyou can still successfully paint your exterior door while its on the hinges. It has kinda turned into a hack seen across social media. Since you’ll be working against gravity, you must pay extra attention to drips.

Prevent drips by using a foam roller when applying the paint uniformly, painting in thin coats, and using a drop cloth beneath the door. I recommend repairing any flaws on your door before painting for the best results, such as filling in cracks and holes. Remember that high gloss paints reveal imperfections more than other paints, such as semi-gloss or satin.

Before starting the project, you want to know what your exterior door is made of. Most exterior doors are wood, fiberglass, steel, and wood clad in aluminum. It’s important to note that certain paints and primers may adhere better to different types of door materials. If you’re unsure, it’s a good idea to consult with the professionals at your local paint store. I used a satin exterior enamel paint/primer and was very pleased with the results. It dried smoothly and quickly, so I didn’t have to wait around for hours to apply the next coat.

You might not have to do this extra step, but I had to paint the exterior door frame to match the door’s new color. This meant getting out the ladder and spending a bit more time painting. Also, dont skimp on painter’s tape; mistakes will show, especially on door frames. When picking out a new front door color, consider what would complement the other exterior colors of the home. If youre unsure, plenty of inspirational ideas are online, and some paint stores offer consultations.

Remove door handle

Using a screwdriver, remove the door handle and lock from the door.

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Floating Fireplace Mantel

If you don’t like a lot of visual clutter, you’ll love the look of a floating mantel shelf like the one seen here on this modern fireplace from @mccauleyinteriors. The shelf supports are hidden, and it’s made of the same material as the lime plaster surround, creating a completely seamless look.

What We Like About It: “Sleek and minimalist, floating mantels fit well in contemporary designs and provide a clean, uncluttered look,” says Flynn.

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Shaving Technique for Tough Corners

How often have you set your miter box exactly on 45 degrees and cut miters on a pair of moldings only to discover they don’t fit? Well, don’t worry. There’s nothing wrong with your miter box or your technique. Miters almost always have to be shaved to fit perfectly.

One method is to simply adjust the angle slightly on your miter box and recut the trim molding. The trouble is that making tiny adjustments to the cutting angle is difficult on many power miter boxes.

A quicker and easier method is to place a shim against the miter saw fence to slightly change the angle. Move the shim away from the blade for smaller adjustments and closer for larger ones, or vary the thickness of the shim. Remember, both pieces need the exact same cut to fit precisely.

Close a gap on the top of a miter by placing a skinny (1/16-inch or less) shim against the portion of the fence farthest from the blade. Slide the trim molding tight to the shim and against the fence near the blade. Hold it in this position while you make the cut.

Caution: Keep your fingers at least 6 inches from the blade’s path.

Trim the other half of the miter using the same technique. Use the same shim and place it the same distance from the blade. Drop the blade slowly through the wood to shave thin slices.

The post 6 Tips for Perfect Trim on Doors, Windows and Base Moldings appeared first on Family Handyman.

For an easier, nearly as good fix that keeps water out and is almost invisible from several feet away, fill the hole with caulk that matches the color of your siding.

Color-match with your siding

Home centers don’t usually stock it, but siding wholesalers that sell to contractors carry caulks specifically blended for dozens of different shades of siding. If you know the manufacturer and color name of your siding, you can get the exact blend developed for that shade. Otherwise, bring a sample piece or take a photo and ask a salesperson to help you match it.

The closer you get to an exact match, the harder your repair will be to spot. If you don’t care as much about the repair being visible, you can be a little more flexible when choosing your caulk.

Filling the hole

Before filling the hole, wipe the siding clean. Leaving behind dirt or grime will compromise the integrity of your repair. Squirt enough caulk into the hole to fill the area behind the hole. Avoid smearing excess caulk all over the surrounding sidingthe less you get on the siding, the less obvious the repair will be. Once the caulk is fully cured (which could be several days, depending on the type), trim it even with the siding with a razor blade.

To avoid making holes in the first place, use vinyl siding clips instead of fasteners to hang decorations. They’re designed to attach to vinyl siding without doing any damage or leaving a mark. Siding clips will allow you to hang all sorts of things from the side of your home, whether that’s planters in the summer or festive light fixtures in the winter.

The post This Is the Easiest Way to Repair Small Holes in Siding appeared first on Family Handyman.

Buy Good Boards

Gluing boards together to make wider panels is a handy woodworking skill thats easy to learn. Woodworkers with well-equipped shops often buy rough lumber and then rip, plane and joint the lumber to get straight edges for tight-fitting joints. However, you can get the same results by carefully choosing boards from a home center or lumberyard.

Look for boards with similar color and grain patterns. Then, sight down the edge of each board to be sure its straight. Finally, make sure the boards are flat and not twisted.

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Rent a Drywall Lift for Ceiling Work

If you have to drywall a ceiling, don’t hesitate to rent a lift. It’s well worth the rental fee and is by far the best way to get a ceiling up without back strain.

Drywall lifts break down into three parts and fit easily into a midsize car. After you reassemble it, release the catch on the wheel and crank it up and down a few times to make sure it’s working smoothly. Then lock the lift and hoist one end of the drywall sheet up to the support hookfinish side down. Now lift the other end of the sheet up and slide it onto the second hook as shown. Lift slowly and smoothlyabrupt or jerky handling can pop the front edge of the drywall off the hook.

Tip the sheet so it’s horizontal and lock it down. Then wheel the lift into approximate position. Lifts are stable and maneuverable, so you can fine-tune the placement when you raise the drywall. Then crank it tight. You may need to get up on a ladder to nudge the sheet into place. Put in at least eight screws before lowering the lift.

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Combine Moldings for Extra Drama

I love looking around old houses to see how wood moldings are combined to create baseboards, casings and cornices. I’ve even been surprised when removing old moldings to discover more layers than I originally noticed. The builders knew the advantages of combining small wood moldings. In addition to allowing endless possibilities for customization, smaller moldings are easier to cut and install than large moldings and allow more flexibility on wavy or irregular walls. Plus, combining small wood moldings can often achieve a great effect for less money. I made the decorative ceiling cornice shown above using moldings I found at a home center.

The best way to plan wood molding combinations is to get your hands on some short lengths of molding and play around with them. Many full-service lumberyards have wood molding samples available. At home centers, you may have to purchase short lengths of each molding you’re considering or ask for scraps.

The post 8 Tips for Installing Wood Molding Like a Pro appeared first on Family Handyman.

It’s time to move, the house has sold, or maybe you’re in the middle of home renovation. Either way, it’s time to remove some old drywall anchors and patch up their holes. For the most part, drywall anchors will pop right out, but sometimes they settle in and don’t want to leave their cozy home. Here are four methods for removing that pesky drywall anchor that just won’t go.

Remove screw in drywall anchor

For all of these methods, no matter what kind of drywall anchors you are trying to remove, its important to pull out the screw that is in place first. If your wall is riddled with toggle bolts, this step alone will cause the anchor to fall into the wall cavity, and its hole will be ready for patching.

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Examine the Door Latch

Grab a flashlight and study how the door latch (the flexing part operated by the door handle) hits the strike plate.

If the latch doesnt spring into the strike plate, observe whether it hits the plate at the top or bottom. If the latch seems properly centered on the plate, perhaps its sticking on either the front or the back edge of the plate.

When you discover where the latch is getting hung up, file that edge.

File the Striker Plate

Insert either a triangular file or a flat file thats small enough to fit inside the strike plate. File off enough metal to allow the latch to catch inside the plate and secure the door. If your filing action is shaking the strike plate, remove the plate and secure it in a vise for your repair. Then reinstall the plate with longer screws.

The post Door Won’t Latch? Here’s an Easy Fix appeared first on Family Handyman.

Combine Smaller Molding to Create Large Profiles

You can save yourself money and hassles by buying separate pieces of trim and assembling them yourself rather than buying elaborate pre-milled moldings. Cutting, coping and fitting wide trim is tricky. If you mess up, you’ll be wasting trim that can cost several dollars per foot. If possible, try to replicate the profile you’re after by assembling the correct individual pieces yourself.

The post 6 Tips for Buying Wood Trim That Will Save Time and Money appeared first on Family Handyman.

Crawl space insulation might not be at the forefront of your mind but forgetting about it is an expensive mistake. Uninsulated ducts that run through unconditioned spaces can lose more than 30 percent of their heating or cooling capacity. So you’ll save money by insulating them. The Residential Building Code calls for R-8 insulation for these ducts, but check with your building inspector for local code requirements. Before you insulate, however, plug any air leaks by sealing all the joints with caulk or tape.

Look for duct wrap, a fiberglass product with an outer foil vapor barrier. The foil barrier prevents condensation and mold from forming on the duct. And be sure to wear proper protective equipment. You’ll be handling fiberglass, so wear long sleeves, goggles, mask and leather gloves.

Unfortunately, R-8 duct wrap can be difficult to find. We checked three home centers and found only R-3 duct wrap. That didn’t meet our local codes, so we contacted a heating equipment supply house. That company knew exactly what we were looking for and had it in stock. We bought a roll of 3-in. by 48-in.-wide by 50-ft. duct wrap for our installation. We also bought a few rolls of UL181 aluminum duct tape to seal the insulation seams.

Cut to Size

Cut the ductwork insulation to match the circumference of the duct, plus 2 inches. Then peel away the foil backing and cut off 2 inches of fiberglass to create an overlapping flap for taping.

Wrap the Duct

Remove several duct hanger brackets and slide the insulation around the top of the duct. To finish the job, butt the insulation edges together along the bottom of the duct, overlap the 2-in. strip of foil, and secure it with aluminum tape.

Secure Sections with Wire

Wrap wire around the insulation to relieve stress on the seams and prevent the seam from separating. Place two wires on each 4-ft. section.

Wrap Around Ducts

Repeat the cutting, tabbing and taping procedure for each round duct.

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What Are Hard Water Stains?

Hard water stains are the result of minerals in your water; the water evaporates and the buildup stays behind. They are generally composed of calcium carbonate. This means that youll need an acid-based cleaner to get rid of them. However, you cannot use just any acid-based cleaner; some of them will do more harm than good. For example, don’t use muriatic acid, because it can stain or bleach many colors of brick and cause aluminum window frames to corrode.

Break Out the Elbow Grease

Instead, several brick cleaners are available that, because of special buffers, work well without those problems. Your local brick dealer probably carries these products. But if not, companies like ProSoCo and Diedrich Technologies offer reputable exterior brick cleaner products so you can learn how to clean exterior brick.

When you clean the brick, remember that you are using an acid-based product and follow all precautions and directions carefully. Do not mix the cleaner with other cleaners or you run the risk of creating toxic gasses. And be sure to wear proper protective equipment while you’re prepping, cleaning, and finishing up.

After cleaning your brick, avoid some future headaches by sealing it with a siloxane or silane-based sealer (available from the same sources listed above). To find out more information on cleaning, visit the Brick Industry Association.

The post Here’s How To Remove Hard Water Stains From Brick appeared first on Family Handyman.

I contacted carpenters and contractors and asked for their help explaining what causes a bouncy floor when you need to worry about it, and the most common ways to address the issue. Most of the solutions are DIY-friendly, but there is a catch: for all but one solution, you need access to the floor joists from below. That means having a basement or accessible crawlspace. If your bounce is occurring on the second floor or over a slab or finished basement, then you’ll have significantly more work involved.

What Causes Bouncy Floors?

“‘Bouncy’ floors usually result from structural issues within the floor,” explains Joshua Parrish, general contractor and co-owner of Hammer and Handsaw. Parrish says those issues can include undersized or improperly-spaced joists, inadequate support, and poorly fastened plywood.

Brandon Walker of ASAP Restoration agrees. “There are many things that can cause a floor to trampoline,” he says. “One of the most common is poor construction, coupled with aging or sub-par materials.”

Improper Installation

If floor joists are spaced too far apart or aren’t sufficiently sized, they won’t provide enough structural stability, and the entire flooring assembly will shake as weight is added. Another common installation issue is subfloor fasteners. If these aren’t installed properly, the floor will develop a gap between the subfloor and the joists, resulting in a bounce.

Improper Modifications

It’s not unusual to see homes where past homeowners have hacked out a floor joist section in order to make room for tall exercise or playroom equipment. Another common issue is when a large pass-through for electric or plumbing lines are carved out in the middle of the joist span.

Water Damage

Water exposure can damage sub-flooring, joists, or sill plates. If any of these begin to rot away, they can give a bouncy floor feeling.

What Is Floor Deflection?

A floor’s “deflection” is the distance it moves when weight is placed on it. All floors have some level of movement, but it’s usually imperceptibly small. If your bouncy floor is noticeable and it bothers you, then it’s an issue. If you don’t notice it, you probably don’t need to worry about it.

However, don’t confuse “can’t notice” with “stopped noticing after a while.” This is something I personally struggle with. For example, I moved into a beautiful old house with a noticeable bounce on one side of the living room. I made a mental note to fix it, but only after I finished fixing the wiring, the roof damage you see where this is going. Fast-forward a couple of years, and I’d totally forgotten about the bounce until a visiting carpenter pointed out that the floor hadn’t, in fact, fixed itself.

How much deflection is acceptable for a floor?

Building code provides a few different deflections depending on the size and material of the flooring and the usage of the space. But for a typical living room, bedroom, or other living space, here’s the rule of thumb: Take the floor length and divide it by 360. The result is the acceptable deflection.

Both Parrish and Walker suggest using the “L/360 rule” as a guideline, while also noting that all floor bounce must be taken on a case-by-case basis.

Sometimes, the deflection is below the L/360 threshold, but it still feels bouncy. In those cases, you can typically tighten it up by using one of the methods described below. If the deflection is over that L/360 number, you may need to act more aggressively and call in a pro.

How to Measure Floor Deflection

The easiest way to measure floor deflection is to use a laser level, but a long straight edge or level can also work. Use the laser or other level to establish a baseline and take a measurement. Then, apply a load to the floor (enough weight to trigger the ‘bounce’ you’ve noticed). Take another measurement while that load is on the floor; the difference between those measurements is the floor’s deflection.

Sagging vs. Deflection

Deflection only lasts as long as the additional weight is on the floor. If your floors “sag” meaning they have a noticeable downward bowing even when no additional weight is added you may have a more serious issue. If that’s the case, consult a contractor or structural engineer.

Solutions for Bouncy Floors

Fixing a bouncy floor almost always involves bolstering the structure, either by adding stiffness or distributing the weight load across a wider area. The experts I spoke with provided a number of possibilities, but the best solution for your floor will depend on the source of the bounce, the severity of the issue, how much access you have to the floor joists, and what, if any, mechanical lines run through the bouncy section of the floor.

Be sure to match the fix with the actual cause of the problem. For example, if you shore up a water-damaged joist without stopping the water infiltration, all you’re really doing is hiding the bigger issue.

Add Bridging

Bridging, sometimes called “X-bracing,” are distinctive, angled strips of wood or metal installed between joists, allowing multiple joists to share a weight load. This solution is relatively easy and inexpensive, making it a good solution to try first. Even if your joists already have a row of bridging at the center of the span, adding a row on each side of the existing bridging will stiffen the floor.

Add Blocking

Blocking is the same concept as bridging, but using solid lumber that’s typically the same size as the joists themselves.

Add Plywood

As a joist bends downward, the lower edge bends slightly to one side or the other. A layer of 3/4-in. plywood firmly fastened to the undersides of joists helps prevent this side-to-side bending and stiffens the floor. A rock-solid bond is crucial; use lots of screws and construction adhesive.

Add a Post

An adjustable steel post can be an easy fix for bouncy flooring if the bounce is limited to a specific joist or two. The post supports the joist and helps hold it steady.

Add a Beam

A beam runs perpendicularly below the floor joists, distributing the forces from above and letting the entire floor (and walls) share the load. Beams leave the basement space open, while a wall is a good choice if you are already planning to divide the basement.

Sistering Floor Joists

“Sistering” means setting a new joist along the length of an existing one, effectively doubling the joist’s width. This results in added strength and stability that can dramatically reduce floor bounce. The downside is that sistering multiple joists can be a big job, especially if you need to re-run mechanicals such as plumbing or electrical.

Upgrade Subflooring

Brandon Walker suggested a solution that may also work for those who don’t have access to floor’s underside: a subflooring upgrade. “Not all subflooring is equal,” he points out. If the installed subfloor is too thin, then it might be the cause of the bouncing floor. “One of the best ways to fix this situation is to increase the thickness of the subflooring.” Of course, you’ll also have to tear off and relay the finish flooring, so this solution does take a fair amount of work.

When to Call a Pro to Fix Floor Deflection

Call in a pro if your floor deflection is past the L/360 guideline, if the floor is sagging rather than bouncing, or if the source of the bounce has impacted multiple parts of the structure. If you don’t trace the source of the bounce back to the core problem and resolve the cause, fixing a bouncy floor is only hiding a larger issue.

Parrish recalls one such property that required far more than a simple fix. “I found evidence of water damage in the kitchen, which compromised the floor and wall framing,” he says. “So after demolition, we had to replace the joists, sister additional joists, repair the damaged ledger and reframe the wall. If we didn’t replace all of these, the integrity of the floor would not be fully addressed and could lead to further structural problems.”

About the Experts

• Joshua Parrish, a licensed general contractor and construction business owner with nearly a decade of experience in home renovations, property flips and new construction. He is also co-owner of the Hammer and Handsaw blog, which features home improvement tips, property flip stories, DIY projects and more.
• Brandon Walker has been in the painting and construction industry for more than 20 years. After running his own company, he decided to advance his skills as a Superintendent with ASAP Restoration.

Sources

• American Wood Council: Tutorial for Understanding Loads and Using Span Tables
• International Residential Code (IRC); Chapter 5: Flooring

The post 7 Ways to Fix a Bouncy Floor appeared first on Family Handyman.

Adjust the Exterior Door Threshold

On a sunny day, turn off the lights and close nearby curtains. Lie down and look for daylight under the door. A sliver of light sneaking in at both corners of the door is normal. But if you see light between the threshold and the door, grab your screwdriver to begin how to replace a door threshold. Raise the threshold where light enters by turning the nearest screws counterclockwise.

Set a straightedge (such as a framing square) on the threshold and adjust the other screws to make sure the adjustable strip is straight. Close the door and check for light. Readjust the threshold until youve eliminated the light. But dont raise the threshold so high that it presses too hard against the weatherstripping on the door. A too-tight fit will wear out the weatherstripping quickly.

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