What Is ‘Brown Friday’?

Brown Friday is the day after Turkey Day, but it’s really an entire week of heightened activity for plumbers. And while the name sounds like a euphemism for clogged toilets, that’s only part of the story. Houses full of guests and a day of cooking and eating put a hefty strain on your pipes, leading to clogged sinks, broken disposals and, of course, clogged toilets.

According to data compiled by Yelp, searches for “emergency plumbing” skyrocketed by 65 percent in 2023. Searches for “24-hour plumbers” were higher on Thanksgiving Day than any other day during November 2023.

Most Common Causes of Plumbing Problems On Brown Friday

Fat and grease

You should never, ever dump any kinds of fats, oils or grease down the drain because it will lead to major clogs in your pipes. That’s Plumbing 101. When warmed grease hits a cold pipe, it solidifies and sticks. Over time, the grease builds up, plugs up the works and becomes incredibly difficult to remove. Some people arent aware of this, so unclogging the resulting mess tends to be a common problem plumbers encounter the day after.

Potato peels

Thanksgiving is certainly the day for mashed potatoes, but don’t be tempted to stuff the potato peels into your garbage disposal while you’re making everyone’s favorite side dish. It’s easy to assume that the blades of a garbage disposal will shred everything to ribbons to be safely washed down the drain. But the starchy skins tend to get clumpy in your pipes, which can cause further blockages.

Though carrots aren’t quite as popular for Thanksgiving cooking as potatoes, you shouldn’t flush carrot peelings down the disposal either. Trust me on that one; I’m speaking from personal experience. Rice and pasta can also gum up your drains.

There’s a reason potato peels are one of these 15 things that you should never put down your garbage disposal, so be aware of that when you start cooking.

Another easy solution is to compost your food waste. Composting is an environmentally-friendly way to dispose of those food scraps, and its easy to do. It’s great for the garden or your flower beds. And if you don’t have a garden or flowers, you can likely find a composting service in your community that works with local farmers.

Turkey

The skin and bones from Ben Franklin’s favorite bird do not mix well with your drains and garbage disposals either. They can cause blockages.

Clogged toilets

Remember, don’t try to flush anything down the toilet other than toilet paper and the natural waste it was made for. Don’t assume your guests are wise to that, either. You can find ways to gently remind visitors that things like paper towels, hygiene products, etc., should not be flushed.

How To Prevent Plumbing Problems

The good news is that you can take a few simple preventative steps to avoid having to frantically search for an emergency plumber at 11 p.m. on Thanksgiving.

1. Use the disposal correctly. These things are handy, but they’re not made for bones, potato peels, cornhusks, carrots, onion skins, coffee grounds, pasta, etc.
2. Run cold water. Whenever you do use the disposal, make sure to run cold water while you feed stuff into it.
3. Avoid using the dishwasher. If your garbage disposal is clogged, avoid using the dishwasher.
4. Properly dispose of grease and oils. Use a container instead of pouring them down the drain, and throw them in the trash once they havesolidified.
5. Wipe off dirty dishes and greasy pans before putting them into the dishwasher or washing them by hand in the sink.
6. Get a mesh strainer for your showers, tubs and bathroom sinks, especially if you’re hosting guests this year. That will help catch hair before it turns into a clog.
7. Think before you flush! Avoid flushing wipes, feminine products and other non-dissolvable products down the toilet.
8. Have a plunger on hand. Plunging a toilet is the easiest way to unclog it. If the clog is too stubborn for a plunger, you may need to snake the toilet or dial up a plumber to take of the problem.

The post Why the Day After Thanksgiving Is an Annual Plumbing Crisis appeared first on Family Handyman.

You dont need to install another plumbing appliance in your bathroom to reap the benefits of a Tushy bidet. Tushy bidet attachments like the Oasis and Wave are simple DIY projects accomplished in under an hour. Here are all the deets about the latest Tushy bidet.

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Tushy Wave Non-Electric Bidet

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What is the Tushy Wave?

TheTushy Classic launched the brand into fame, becoming one of the most popular bidet options online. It’s made of tough, durable acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) plastic and accented with stylish hardware in various colors. Users can choose the water stream strength from light to strong pressure, and the precision angle adjuster makes cleaning quick and efficient.

The all-new Tushy Wave, like the Oasis, is an easy-clean bidet toilet seat. Unlike the prior classic modelwhich is an attachment that fits under your existing toilet seatthe new models replace your toilet seat altogether. The Wave doesnt have an extended console like previous Tushy bidet models, so it can fit in even the tiniest of apartment bathrooms. No more sacrificing spa-like luxuries for apartment living.

With the press of a quick-release button, the seat and lid slide off from the base plate for an extra deep clean. The sleek, gapless seat is also equipped with a soft-close lid and has easy-turn knobs to control water pressure at the front and rear of the seat. The whole thing is designed to fit your standard toilet, and you can select an elongated or round seat based on your toilet bowl shape.

Our Favorite Tushy Bidets

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Tushy Wave Non-Electric Bidet

The clean and modern non-electric bidet seat that replaces your existing toilet seat. Its control knobs are built into the seat, so the device can fit on virtually any toilet or in any bathroom.

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Tushy Oasis Warm Water Non-Electric Bidet

The warm-water, non-electric bidet seat packs the features of the Wave plus a warm water option for a cozy clean on the coldest mornings. Like the Wave, it has an easy-clean seat.

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Tushy Classic 3.0 Bidet Attachment

Tushys best-selling bidet attachment is affordable and comes in various color/hardware combinations. Its super easy to install and makes a great gift.

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Where to Buy the Tushy Wave

You can shop the Tushy Wave at Tushy for $189. Orders should ship out almost immediately, so youll have your new throne in time for the holiday season.

The post Tushy Just Dropped a New Bidet, and It’s the Bathroom Upgrade You’ve Been Waiting For appeared first on Family Handyman.

Why are people around here (in California) so reluctant to use a bidet? It could be the fear of cold water, but I think it’s just habit. I lived in Japan for 10 years, and the people there have no such reluctance. One reason for this might be that Japanese bidets (they call them washlets) can deliver pre-heated water sometimes accompanied by a soothing blast of drying air, a puff of deodorant and even a chirpy little tune to mask those troublesome bathroom noises. That sounds so good that you’d expect to find a washlet in every Japanese bathroom, but you don’t. Many people there, like everywhere else, are addicted to toilet paper.

Today, toilet paper can be found in bathrooms all over the world, but people in many countries have been doing fine without it for millennia. I first learned to wash while living in India, and once, in a restroom in Thailand, I saw a poster extolling the virtues of washingin English and directed at Western tourists.

Installing an inexpensive bidet has become so easy that now might be a good time to try one out if you haven’t already. It’s convenient and soothingeven if the water is a little colder than you’d likeand it’s more sanitary than wiping.

Save the panic buying for something important.

To Wash or to Wipe?

The use of toilet paper dates back to the Zhou Dynasty in China (618-907 AD), and it replaced such practices as cleaning up with natural materials, such as leaves or stones, man-made materials like cloth or sticks or as the Romans used to do mounting a sponge on a stick and dousing it in water. All these wiping techniques were developed because water wasn’t always readily available, and toilet paper was definitely an improvement. But is it better than washing with water?

No, says a paper published by the Journal of Clinical Gastroenterology and Hepatology Research, and here are some of the reasons:

• Wiping always leaves residue, no matter how thorough you are. Washing, if done properly, leaves no residue.
• Cleaning the hands after wiping is a strict necessity, but many people don’t do it, creating the risk of spreading disease. You also have to clean your hands if you use them while washing, but if you wash with a bidet, your hands remain uncontaminated.
• Wiping can cause injuries, including hemorrhoids. This can be avoided by wiping with wet paper, but who’s going to do that?

The Development of the Bidet

Washing has always been common in India and Pakistan, but one reason the practice didn’t become more widespread was that it involved direct contact with the hands. A bidet eliminates that issue because no hand contact is required. A stream of water does all the work, and all the user has to do to control the stream is turn a dial or press a button. But bidets haven’t always been that simple to use.

As you’ve probably guessed, the bidet is a French invention. The first one appeared in the 17th centurybefore the invention of toilet paperand until the mid-20th century, it was a separate toilet-shaped unit detached from the main toilet. You had to move from the toilet to the bidet to do your cleaning.

It wasn’t until the 1980s that Japanese manufacturer Toto began marketing bidet-style toilet seats (coining the name “washlet”), and they didn’t make it to the United States until the 1990s. Washlets were revolutionary because they eliminated both the need for direct hand contact and the need to move to a separate fixture. But they also weren’t widely available, and purchasing one was as expensive as buying a new toilet. Luckily, bidet development didn’t stop there.

During the COVID-19 pandemic, when sanitation and hygiene became crucial issues, a number of manufacturers introduced simple bidets that homeowners could attach to their existing toilets. They are inexpensive, easy to install and easy to use.

Environmental Benefits

According to various sources, 27,000 trees are cut daily to make toilet paper. That amounts to almost 10 million trees a year. That has prompted the National Resources Defense Council to lament that toilet paper production is helping to fuel the climate crisis. What can one person do about this situation? Install a bidet!

Of course, water conservation is an equally important environmental concern, but a single use of a bidet consumes only about one cup (or less). If you have a low-flush toilet (1.6 gallons per flush), using a bidet for a week amounts to about one extra flush. Unless you live in a water-scarce area, that’s a decent tradeoff.

Brands to Consider

When it comes to washlets, Toto is the clear market leader, but because they are complete toilet seats, washlets don’t fit every toilet. Plus, because they pre-heat water and provide other conveniences, most washlets need to be plugged in, and not every bathroom has a receptacle accessible from the toilet. Several manufacturers offer much simpler bidet attachments that don’t need external power.

Tushy

The Tushy Classic 3.0 ($100 – $130) features a self-cleaning sprayer with an adjustable knob that controls pressure and angle. I installed one of these at a friend’s house and was impressed at the high-pressure spray and overall elegance of the design.

Brondell

The Brondell Fresh Spa ($28) is the model I installed on my own toilet. It features the same control knob and the same functions as the Tushy, and it’s way cheaper. It doesn’t develop the same high pressure, but it does the job, and I’m happy with it.

Brondell also manufactures the Omigo Element + ($40), which provides heated water. This one isn’t for every bathroom because it needs a hot water connection from the sink, which may not be in a convenient location.

Luxe

The Luxe Neo 120 ($39) costs a little more than the Brondell Fresh Spa, but for the extra money, you get two control knobs, one that controls pressure and one that controls direction. The direction knob is a feature I wish I had, as I find myself having to move around on the seat to get a complete cleaning.

Installation Is Ridiculously Easy

A new bidet attachment comes with a tee that allows you to connect it to the toilet supply line. Here’s the 10-minute installation procedure in a nutshell:

Start by removing the toilet seat, setting the bidet in place on the bowl and replacing the seat. The seat bolts hold both the seat and the bidet in place. Next, screw the tee onto the shutoff valve after draining the toilet and unscrewing the toilet supply line. You then screw the supply line onto one of the tee outlets. The other outlet is for the supply hose for the bidet, which comes as part of the package. That hose connects to the tee on one end and the bidet on the other. That’s it! After you tighten all the connections with a wrench and turn the water back on, your bidet is ready to use.

There’s one slight complication. Most health authorities require a check valve to prevent contaminated water from siphoning back through the bidet outlet and into the water supply in the event of a toilet backup. Many models come with an anti-siphon valve pre-installed to satisfy this requirement. If you choose a model that doesn’t, you may need a plumber to help you determine the best way to handle your installation.

Sources

• The Journal of Clinical Gastroenterology and Hepatology Research: The Butt, To Wipe or Not to Wipe?; 2019.
• Bidet King: A Brief History of Bidets; 2023.
• Natural Resources Defense Council: Toilet Paper Is Driving the Climate Crisis with Every Flush; 2020.

The post A Cheap Bidet Could Change Your Life — and Help the Environment appeared first on Family Handyman.

Mark Up the Wall First

Before you can begin installing cabinets, you need to do your prep work. A good cabinet installation starts with a good layout. Measure from the highest point in the floor and draw a level line marking the top of the base cabinets. Measure up 19-1/2 in. from that line and draw another line for the bottom of the upper cabinets. Label the location of the kitchen wall cabinets and appliances on the wall. Draw a vertical line to line up the edge of the first cabinet to be installed. Finally, mark the stud locations.

The post Tips to Install Cabinets Like a Pro appeared first on Family Handyman.

Plastic Laminates

What are plastic laminate countertops?

As the name implies, plastic laminate countertops are made from plastics and are generally the most affordable countertop option. They come in a variety of colors and patterns, some of which mimic the look of wood grain and stone. For countertops, choose the more durable high-pressure laminates (HPLs), such as Wilsonart’s HPL line, over low-pressure options (TFL).

How much do plastic laminates cost?

Generally, plastic laminates cost between $10 and $40 per square foot.

Pros

• Affordable
• Low-maintenance
• Easy to install
• Stain and heat-resistant, but not proof

Cons

• Less durable, prone to scratches and heat damage
• Shorter lifespan
• Lower resale value, some consider it less attractive

The post Buying Countertops: Plastic Laminates, Granite, Solid Surfaces & More appeared first on Family Handyman.

Can Drano Unclog a Toilet?

One of the most prevalent unclogging toilet myths to which our experts nearly unanimously gave the thumbs-down was the use of chemicals. Powers specifically said: “Don’t use Drano. It does not make contact with the actual clog, rather just sits in the toilet bowl.” Moinzadeh pointed out that harsh chemicals can damage your pipes and even cause injury if they splash back.

Besides the fact that Drano generates enough heat to damage the toilet pipes, Hudelson pointed out that it rarely works well because there’s too much water diluting everything. If you use a harsh drain cleaner like Drano, and it doesn’t work (which it probably won’t), you’ve created a hazard for the poor plumber who has to pull the toilet to remove the blockage.

• Pro tip: Even the Drano company advises against using Drano Clog Removers in toilets. It does, however, recommend a monthly application of Drano Max Build-Up Remover to prevent clogs from forming in the first place.

The post Don’t Try To Unclog Your Toilet These Ways appeared first on Family Handyman.

Floating Single Board Wall Shelf

Tiktok user Natalie Doef (@nataliedoef) showcases these easy DIY floating shelves made with just a single board per shelf. This project is beginner-friendly, and the shelves can be styled however you want!

What We Like About It: These versatile shelves are easy to hang and endlessly customizable. Paint or stain your wood your desired color, depending on the color scheme of your room. You can also adjust the sizes and placements of the shelves to fit the exact layout you’re looking for.

The post 12 Best Wall Shelf Ideas To Add Style and Storage to Any Home appeared first on Family Handyman.

When we built our kitchen, we were on a very limited budget. But one aspect I was adamant about was not having those cookie-cutter cabinets found at every big box store. The problem was, those are the most affordable and easiest to find. So, one option we considered was to buy them anyway, then turn them into fluted cabinets and that’s an idea that happens to be trending with a lot of others now, too.

“Fluted cabinetry is popular lately because it’s a great way to add style and pizzazz to your kitchen,” says Josh Rudin, owner of ASAP Restoration. “One of the speculations as to why is because their design is more intricate and, therefore, a bit more expensive upfront. This can make them a display option to one-up neighbors and friends, but many people also choose this design for its unique look.”

But you don’t have to spend a fortune to get that characteristic look. Chances are, many of the cabinets around your home are pretty easy to DIY into something more interesting and textured, like fluting. Here’s how.

What Are Fluted Cabinets?

Fluted cabinets have smooth, rounded grooves on the cabinet faces. They tend to run vertically and are usually pressed or routed in. They can also be made by adding half-round on top of an existing cabinet door.

People often choose fluted cabinets because of their soft, wave-like Mid-Century Modern look, which is also reminiscent of Greek or Roman architecture.

“They are becoming more popular because people are putting more value into personalizing their homes and steering away from more conventional-looking spaces,” says Drew Mansur, director of TileCloud. “These cabinets will add an artisanal touch to the room while still maintaining a sense of modernity.”

How to DIY Fluted Cabinets

There are several ways to go about making fluted cabinets. “If you have some DIY experience, this job won’t be too hard,” says Mansur. ” The important part is to make sure you don’t rush, and to give yourself time to get the best results.”

Glue On Flutes

One of the easiest ways to make fluted cabinets is to glue half-round or strips of plywood onto the front of regular, flat cabinet faces.

This method involves cutting strips and gluing them to the cabinet face.

• Start by measuring the dimensions of the cabinet panel and marking in equal intervals where the flutes will go.
• Cut the flutes precisely to match the height of the cabinet doors, then attach them using wood glue, taking care that they are evenly spaced and vertically level/parallel.
• Once you’re certain it looks even, clamp them in place until the glue is dry.
• Check for gaps between the dowels or trim, then use wood filler to mask any inconsistencies.
• Lightly sand the surface to give it a smooth finish before priming and painting. Mansur recommends a matte finish for a better finish.

The post Fluted Cabinets Are In Style – Here’s How You Can Do It Yourself appeared first on Family Handyman.

Quartz

Quartz has become a popular choice for countertops in recent years because of its high-end look and durability. Quartz is an engineered stone made from a mix of real quartz and rock-solid binders. As seen here on this kitchen island from @ennscabinetry, quartz provides the look of marble without the cost or maintenance.

What We Like About It: “The biggest benefit of installing quartz is that it is a robust material that can be both beautiful and easy to clean and maintain,” says Culp, “Wine spill? No problem, just wipe it up!”

The post 18 Awesome Countertops That Aren’t Granite appeared first on Family Handyman.

Unclog Toilet With a Plunger

To plunge a clogged toilet, first ensure there is enough water in the bowl to cover the rubber part of the plunger, then position the plunger over the drain hole and push down firmly to create suction. Pump the plunger up and down several times, then lift it quickly to release the clog; repeat if necessary until the toilet flushes smoothly.

How it works

The post How to Unclog a Toilet appeared first on Family Handyman.

Grab bars aren’t just safety devices for hospitals and public restrooms. In your own home, a strategically placed and solidly anchored grab bar can mean the difference between a relaxing bath and a trip to the emergency room. Grab bars are an example of universal design. They provide extra security for the first slippery step in your bathtub or shower.

Here, we’ll show you where to position grab bars and how to anchor them so they’re rock-solid. Plus, they’re a solid home improvement investment that pays off.

If you’ve mounted towel bars or other hardware around the house, you’ll have no trouble installing grab bars or a bathtub handrail. It shouldn’t take more than a few hours. You’ll only need a hammer, a level, a drill and a few special drill bits. A stud sensor is optional. Anchoring your grab bars to the studs will make them rock-solid.

Video: How to Install a Bathroom Grab Bar

Buy the right safety grab bars

Grab bars are specially manufactured to hold at least 250 lbs. when properly secured. Towel bars and other light-duty bars are not strong enough.

Most shower bars are stainless steel to resist corrosion, but you can also find them with a painted finish in various colors. We purchased our 1-1/2 in. dia. white grab bars at a home center. The 18-in. bar cost about $30; the 24-in. bar about $40. Thinner bars are available, but a standard 1-1/2 in. dia. shower bar like we’re using is just right for most people’s grip. Some bars feature added texture to reduce slipping. Here are a few guidelines for selecting grab bars:

• Purchase an 18-in. or longer bar to mount vertically at the tub edge.
• Locate the studs before you buy a bar to mount at an angle or horizontally on the long tub wall. Then buy a bar that reaches from one stud to the other, usually 32 in. long for a horizontal bar and 24 in. long for an angled bar.
• Buy standard 1-1/2 in. dia. grab bars for most situations. Thinner bars look more like towel bars and may not be strong enough for heavy use.
• Avoid grab bars that leave more than a 1-1/2 in. space between the bar and the wall unless there is a specific reason for using one. A person’s arm could slip into the extra-wide space and become trapped or break during a fall.
• If you’re installing grab bars for a person with special needs, ask a physical therapist or an occupational therapist to help you select the right bars.

The post Shower Bar: How to Install Bathroom Grab Bars appeared first on Family Handyman.

What causes a dishwasher air gap clog?

An air gap prevents dirty dishwater from backflowing into fresh water lines. But ground-up food and grease can build up inside the air gap and form a clog over time.

Why do I need to get my dishwasher air gap clog repaired?

This clog can cause water to shoot out of the air gap, making a mess over your counters and potentially flooding the area under your sink.

You’ll need to fix this problem sooner rather than later or else what started as a simple clog could end up being a lot of water damage. If water squirts out the air gaps vent holes or you notice a foul smell coming from it, its time to clean it. Fortunately, this repair is easy and doesn’t require a specialist or fancy tools. All you need is a bottle brush and some household disinfecting cleaner.

How to Fix a Dishwasher Air Gap That’s Spewing Water

• Yank the cover off the dishwasher air gap and remove the snap-in or screw-on diverter.
• Remove any loose food particles.
• Soak the bottle brush in household cleaner and plunge it up and down into the air gap.
• This should clear the clog, but sometimes the backup is further down. If you still have a water leak after cleaning the air gap, clean the drain line where it meets the garbage disposer or drain wye (aka Y).
• Once the clog is cleared, wipe everything down and then reassemble the air gap vent.

You’ve solved your problem and saved yourself the headache of repairing water damage and deep cleaning your kitchen after running your dishwasher.

The post What to Do When Water Is Coming Out of Your Dishwasher Air Gap appeared first on Family Handyman.

Long ago, I realized that one quick and simple way to organize your home is to build a DIY drawer divider for your junk drawers. We all have at least one junk drawer in our desk or kitchen cabinets. Most of us cant stand it and yet dont know what to do with it. Organization has always been near and dear to my heart, so I decided to tackle that drawer mess and am happy to share how I went about it by making a drawer organizer with an unexpected material that makes it completely washable and waterproof.

I found it easier to make repetitive half-lap joints with my router and a custom jig than with a table saw. This jig enabled me to repeat the cuts without measuring each time I repeated the same cut.

Overview of Jig

Jig Cutting List

Measure the drawer and cut the PVC

I chose 5/16-inch thick exterior PVC siding trim for the drawer organizer. It is textured on one side and smooth on the other. Since it is made of PVC, your drawer divider can be easily dismantled and cleaned when necessary. Furthermore, this material cuts very easily and cleanly with a router.

Measure the height of your drawer and rip the PVC material so it is at least 1/2-inch shorter than the top of the drawer box.

Measure the length and width of the inside of your drawer. To start, cut three pieces of the ripped PVC to the length and another three pieces to the width. Once you have determined the layout and size of the compartments you’d like in your drawer, cut more for the rest of the drawer.

The post How To Build DIY Drawer Dividers appeared first on Family Handyman.

Feature Wall

In this living room from Decorating Den Interiors, floating shelves are installed against a black wall to create a focal point. The high-contrast look makes a big impact, and the lack of shelf brackets matches the minimal theme of the room.

What We Like About It: “This gives the illusion of extra height by allowing the eyes to move up the wall with a creative vision to follow,” says Kludy.

The post 8 Best Floating Shelves Ideas appeared first on Family Handyman.

Clogged Toilet

“A clog in the toilet trap or drainpipe is the most common reason a toilet won’t flush,” says Bux. “This can be due to excessive toilet paper, foreign objects, or waste buildup.” Unfortunately, when this happens, there’s a danger of an overflow if you keep flushing, so the toilet is effectively out of service until the clog goes away.

Fixes to try

• Grab a plunger. Not a flat-bottomed sink plunger, but a bell-shaped toilet plunger. Bux recommends the Korky Beehive Max Plunger, but any brand will do. You should keep one in the bathroom, because plumbers agree it will clear most toilet clogs if you use it properly.
• Pour in some dish soap. The soap may provide enough lubrication to coax the clog out of the way. Plunge after you pour it in.
• Use a snake. “A toilet auger (also known as a closet auger) like the RIDGID K-6 Toilet Auger can help reach and break up deeper clogs,” says Bux.
• Try an enzymatic clog buster. A non-corrosive drain cleaner like Green Gobbler Toilet Bowl Clog Remover may work, but it will take time, so this isn’t an instant solution. Bux cautions to use it sparingly to avoid damaging the plumbing. Whatever you do, stay away from conventional corrosive drain cleaners, which often cause more problems than they solve.
• Pull the toilet and manually clear the clog if nothing else works.

The post Toilet Won’t Flush? These Are the Most Likely Reasons and How to Fix It appeared first on Family Handyman.

How Does a Garbage Disposal Work?

A garbage disposal is an electrically powered, under-sink device with rapidly revolving impeller plates. These plates force food waste scraps against a sharp grinding ring within a central chamber before water flushes the smaller particles down the drain.

Using Your Garbage Disposal

Using this appliance isn’t difficult, but following these garbage disposal tips can help prevent clogs, bad odors and a reduced lifespan.

1. Turn on the cold water: Hot water melts grease and fat, leading to clog-causing buildups. Cold water solidifies these substances, aiding their movement.
2. Chop up large items: This speeds up the grinding process and puts less stress on the motor.
3. Grind waste a little at a time.
4. Turn off the disposal: Wait until there’s no more grinding noise before switching off.
5. Continue running the water: “The most important thing to remember is to run the water for 30-45 seconds after turning the disposal off,” licensed plumber Shaylin King says. This clears debris from the long drain line.

What can go down a garbage disposal?

What can go down a garbage disposal varies by model and motor horsepower, so always check the manufacturer’s guidance. However, Jeremy Gattozzi, the Senior Category Manager of Disposals at Moen, explains that the best garbage disposals can handle almost all food waste. “They can grind the toughest scraps, like corn cobs, raw and cooked meat, large fruit pits and chicken bones,” he says. Less powerful models might better suit softer food waste, like potato peels and cereals.

A common garbage disposal myth is that they can’t handle grainy coffee grinds and eggshells, but with a strong water flow and gradual feeding, most models munch them masterfully.

How much stuff can go down a garbage disposal at once?

King explains it’s best to gradually add food waste to your garbage disposal to avoid clogs. “Don’t just dump a bowl of waste in all at once, especially things like rice or pasta that swell in water,” he says.

What cannot go down a garbage disposal?

Garbage disposals are only designed to grind biodegradable food waste. “That doesn’t include non-food items like trash or traditional recyclables [such as glass, plastic or metal],” Gattozzi says.

Other things to avoid putting down your garbage disposal include:

• Grease and oil
• Large whole bones
• Clam and oyster shells
• Fibrous, whole corn husks
• Harsh chemicals

Cleaning Your Garbage Disposal

Fortunately, cleaning your garbage disposal isn’t cumbersome.

Do you need to clean a garbage disposal?

Most model’s inner grind chambers are self-cleaning. However, “odors can come from the unit’s splash guard, and it can [typically] be pulled out to clean,” Gazzotti says.

How to clean your garbage disposal

While the rubber splash guard is usually dishwasher safe, you can also hand wash it. “Never pull it out without the power being off,” Gattozzi says. He recommends scrubbing it with baking soda and warm water. If the splash guard isn’t removable, clean its underside with a toothbrush. If it still smells, consider replacing your garbage disposal’s splash guard.

Vinegar or commercial disposal cleaning tablets can help remove garbage disposal smells lingering in the grinding chamber.

When to clean your garbage disposal

Gattozzi says you shouldn’t need to clean your garbage disposal daily. However, cleaning the splash guard at least once a month or when you notice funky smells is sensible.

Garbage disposal cleaning mistakes

“Never put lye or chemical drain cleaner into garbage disposals,” Gattozzi says. “These cause serious corrosion of the unit’s metal parts.”

Citrus peels and ice cubes, despite being much-touted, don’t aid cleaningalthough peels can provide a temporary fresh scent.

Unclogging Your Garbage Disposal

If you put down too much food waste too fast or don’t run the water for long enough, clogs occur. When that happens, switch off the unit, fill the sink with a few inches of water and use a plunger or plumber’s helper to dislodge the clog. Once it’s clog-free, turn the unit back on and run the grinder and some water for a minute.

Unjamming Your Garbage Disposal

“Garbage disposals can get jammed when a hard object becomes lodged between the outer wall and the grind plate,” King says.

Follow the garbage disposal tips below to unjam your unit:

• Turn off the disposal.
• Remove large objects using tongs or pliers.
• “Some manufacturers include an Allen wrench to unjam the clog by spinning the unit,” King says. Alternatively, Gazzotti suggests using a wooden spoon handle to release the blades.
• Press the red garbage disposal reset button to restart the unit.

When to Call a Pro

When it comes to clogs, if you can’t clear the clog or your unit regularly gets blocked, call the professionals. King says this can help you avoid costly and possibly dangerous mistakes.

Regarding jams, King explains items can get stuck in the flangethe ring connecting the garbage disposal to the sinkand you might need to disconnect the unit to release it. This is often a job best left to the pros. Also, call them if you don’t have the right tools or if the offending item is deeply lodged.

FAQ

How long does a garbage disposal last?

How long your garbage disposal lasts depends on the model type and amount of use. Unit warranties are typically 3, 5 or 10 years. While you might not need to replace your garbage disposal for decades with the right care, all motors wear out eventually.

About the Experts

Jeremy Gattozzi is the Senior Category Manager of Disposals at Moen. The company is one of the world’s largest manufacturers of plumbing products, including garbage disposals; email interview, May. 27, 2024

Shaylin King owns Mr. Rooter of Tri-Cities, Yakima, and Hermiston, a Neighborly company. He’s a 25-year journeyman plumber; email interview, May. 21, 2024

The post Are You Using Your Garbage Disposal Correctly? Here’s the Deal appeared first on Family Handyman.

Since many cabinet openings differ from ours in height and width, we’ll concentrate on the basic steps and key measurements rather than exact dimensions. Some of these projects are mounted to cabinet doors or face frames. Make sure your cabinets, doors and hinges are in good shape and that you don’t overload your finished projects with heavy cans and other objects.

For speed and accuracy, we recommend you borrow, buy or rent a power miter saw to finish these kitchen storage projects. We start with the easiest project and end with the hardest, so if you’re a beginner, you can build your do-it-yourself skills and confidence as you work your way through.

Door-Mounted Spice and Lid Racks

These simple kitchen storage projects will help transform those chaotic gangs of spice bottles and pan lids into orderly regiments. We show you how to build the spice rack; the lid rack uses the same steps but without the shelves. Each spice rack can hold 20 to 30 bottles, and each lid rack has two to six lids, depending on the height and width of your cabinet doors. Before building, measure your spice bottles and lids to determine the spacing of your shelves and dowels. Here are other key measurements and clearances to keep an eye on:

Existing shelf depth

If the existing cabinet shelves are full depth, narrow them by about 2 in. to accommodate each door-mounted rack. Shelves that are permanently affixed in grooves in the cabinet sides will need to be removed, cut along the backside with a circular saw or table saw, then replaced. You may need to move brackets or add holes to remount narrowed shelves.

Spice rack depth and positioning

Make certain the new rack won’t hit the cabinet frame when the door swings. We found that fitting the rack between the two 2-in. wide vertical stiles gave us adequate room. If your doors are solid wood or laminate, hold in place a scrap of wood the same depth as the spice rack (2-1/2 in. was the depth we used) and swing the door. Move it away from the door edge until it no longer makes contact with the cabinet frame, then mark the door. This will determine the overall width of your spice rack.

We used soft, easy-to-nail pine and basswood for both the spice and the lid racks. If you’re using a harder wood, like maple or oak, position the pieces, then pre-drill holes through the side pieces and into the shelf ends. This will prevent splitting and make nailing easier. Install your shelves one at a time so you don’t have to balance and juggle multiple pieces as you work. Always nail on a flat, solid surface.

Measure the distance between the two vertical stiles and the two horizontal rails to determine the outside dimensions of your spice rack. Cut existing shelves back 2 1/2 ins. so they don’t interfere with the rack when the door is closed.

Transfer the dimensions from Fig. A onto 1/2 x 2-1/2 in. side boards. Cut out the sides of the spice rack. Drill 1-in. holes to create the circular shape, then finish the cutout with a jigsaw. Drill 5/16-in. holes for the dowels. Sand the edges and surfaces smooth.

Glue and nail the shelves in place one at a time, using 3d finish nails. Then use 3/4-in. brads to pin the dowels in place. Sink all nailheads using a nail set. Apply polyurethane or another finish to match the cabinets.

Clamp the finished spice rack to the door. Then drill angled pilot holes through the rack and into the door every 8 in. and secure the rack with brad nails. Remove the door for this step if you find you need a more solid surface for hammering. Use carpenter’s glue for a more permanent installation.

Use Swing Down Hinges for a Cookbook Rack

When counter space is at a minimum and counter mess at a maximum, this swing-down rack will keep your cookbook up and out of the fray. The special spring-loaded brackets allow you to swing your cookbook down when you need it, then out of the way when you’re done.

Our cookbook platform tucks under a single cabinet. But you can make your platform larger to hold larger books, then mount it beneath two cabinets. This is one of our more versatile kitchen storage projects; with a little creativity, you can use this same hardware to create a swing-down knife rack or spice rack too. Fold-down brackets are available at home centers and online.

Cut the 1/2-in. thick plywood base to size. To get straight cuts, measure from the edge of your circular saw base to the edge of the blade, then clamp a straight board to the plywood using that distance from your cutting line to serve as a guide. Cut with the plywood’s good side down.

Glue and nail the 3/4 x 3/4-in. lip to the front of the base, then picture frame the plywood with L-moldings. For an exact measurement, cut one end at 45 degrees on a miter saw, hold it in position and mark the other end. Put a reminder mark on the board so you remember which direction to cut the angle. Secure the pieces with carpenter’s glue and 3d nails.

Mount the swing-down hinges to your base using wood screws. Hold the assembled unit in position under the cabinet, then mark the holes for the brackets. This is a two-person job. Drill the holes, then secure the brackets to the cabinet using short machine screws, washers and nuts.

Blind-Corner Glide-Out and Swing-Out Shelves

Blind-corner cabinetsthose with a blank face that allows another cabinet to butt into themmay be great for aging wine, but they’re darn near impossible to see and reach into. These kitchen storage projects will give you a pair of accessories puts an end to this hidden wasteland. The hinged shelf swings out of the way, and the gliding shelf slides forward so you can access food items stored in the back. You can use the same hardware and techniques to make base cabinets more accessible.

Cut out the two plywood sides, then glue and nail the corners. Connect the trays to the two plywood sides using 1-in. drywall screws, then cut and nail L-molding to support the front corner. Cut and install L-moldings to support and cover the exposed plywood edges of the upper tray. Install 3/4-in. screen molding to cover the plywood edges of the bottom tray.

Cut the mounting base plywood slightly smaller than the other tray bottoms, then secure the two slides parallel to each other about 1-in. from each edge. Slip this mounting base into the opening, extend the slides, then screw them to the cabinet bottom at the rear of the cabinet. Install the slides parallel to the cabinet sides so the base slides back and forth freely.

Screw the tray unit to the mounting base using 3/4-in. screws. After installing the first screw, slide the unit forward and back. Then adjust it until it runs parallel to the cabinet sides and install three more screws.

Glue and nail the 1x3s together using 4d finish nails, then secure the plywood bottom with 3d finish nails.

Cut the 1×10 swing-out uprights to length and width (one should be 3/4 in. narrower than the other). Use a countersink bit to predrill holes along one edge, then glue and screw the two edges together. The diagonal measurement should be less than the cabinet opening.

Assemble the shelf unit. First, mark the shelf positions on the uprights and pre-drill holes from the front side. Create the three shelves by cutting a 1×10 to length and width, then cutting the corner at 45 degrees. Hold the shelves in place and drive drywall screws through these holes from the backside into the shelves. Cut the 22-1/2 degree angles on the front moldings and secure them with 3d finish nails. You can use any type of wide decorative molding that’s at least 1/2 x 3 in.

Screw the piano hinge to the front edge of the swing-out unit, then to the edge of the cabinet face frame. Make certain the swing-out has 1/2 in. of clearance top and bottom. Use an assistant to help you lift and hold the unit at the proper height while you’re securing it to the cabinet.

Roll-Out Pantry Cabinet

Roll-out shelves open up inaccessible space in the back of deep base cabinets. Most cabinet manufacturers now include roll-out shelves in their base cabinets. But if you don’t have this convenience, this is one of the better kitchen storage projects to one-up those shelves. Here we’ll show you how to make an entire roll-out pantry.

The hardware consists of two heavy-duty bottom-mounted slides and one center-mounted top slide that together can support 130 lbs. Again, construct your unit to suit your needs. We made our bottom tray 3-1/2 in. tall and the upper ones 2-1/2 in. tall. You may want to include only two trays if you’ll be storing cereal boxes and other tall packages.

Since you’ll be converting your door from swinging to rolling mode, you’ll need to remove the door and hinges. You’ll also have to remove the existing handle and reinstall it centered on the door. If your hardware mounts from the backside, install it before attaching the door.

Measure the cabinet face frame opening, then subtract the height of the top and bottom glides. Use the guidelines given to arrive at the depth, width and height of your pantry unit. Be sure to install the bottom glides so they run parallel to the cabinet sides. If necessary, use plywood to raise the cabinet bottom even with the bottom lip of the face frame.

Install the top glide support and top glide so the support is level and flush to the top of the frame opening. Screw plywood flanges to each end of the 1×3 support beforehand to make it simpler to secure it to the front and back of the cabinet.

Assemble the pantry trays using 1x4s, 1x3s, 6d nails and carpenter’s glue. Use the plywood bottoms to square up the trays before nailing them on. L-moldings support and cover the plywood edges of the upper two trays; 3/4-in. screen molding covers the exposed plywood edges of the bottom tray.

Secure the trays to the 1/2-in. plywood uprights using glue and drywall screws. Arrange the spacing of the trays to meet your needs.

Screw the tray assembly to the bottom runners. While you do this, make sure it’s centered in the opening and running parallel to the cabinet sides. The extended portion of the top slide is secured to a 1×3 screwed between the two plywood uprights. You can loosen this 1×3, then adjust the height so the top glide runs flat and smooth.

Clamp the cabinet door to the front of the pantry assembly; center it and make the height even with adjacent doors. Pre-drill eight holes through the plywood upright and drive screws into the back of the cabinet door. After installing two screws, close the door to check its alignment with the adjacent doors. Make adjustments, then install the remaining screws. Use short screws so they don’t penetrate the front of the cabinet door.

The post 4 Easy DIY Projects to Create More Kitchen Storage Space appeared first on Family Handyman.

There comes a time when you need to remove a toilet from a bathroom for one reason or another. Maybe you need to replace the toilet, or perhaps you are in the middle of a bathroom remodeling project, installing new floors underneath the toilet and painting behind it. Though it may seem intimidating, removing a toilet is an easy task most DIYers can do.

Removing a toilet requires no special tools and does not take very long. If you plan to dispose of your old toilet once it has been removed, I recommend contacting your local waste management facility to inquire about the proper disposal methods for it.

When To Call a Pro

It is not necessary to hire a professional plumber to remove a toilet. However, you should ensure that you are capable of heavy lifting and bending over numerous times during the project. Seek the assistance of a plumber or handyman if you are not confident in removing a toilet yourself and to also ensure thereplacement seat fits properly.

Shut off water to toilet

Turn off the water supply to the toilet by turning the shut-off valve clockwise. Flush the toilet to remove all the water from the tank. Plunge the toilet to remove as much residual water as possible from the bowl and trap.

The post How To Remove a Toilet the Right Way appeared first on Family Handyman.

I spoke with a licensed plumber and garbage disposal manufacturer to understand what causes garbage disposals to leak from the bottom and why replacement is often the best solution.

What Causes a Garbage Disposal to Leak From the Bottom?

Licensed plumber Shaylin King says a close examination is necessary to establish the cause of a garbage disposal leaking from the bottom.

Worn internal seals

King explains that even the best garbage disposals have a limited lifespan. “The most common cause of garbage disposals leaking from the bottom is failure of the seals around the internal bearings due to old age,” he says.

Worn gaskets

According to King, gasket deterioration commonly occurs in two spots, causing dripping from the bottom of the unit. “The first potential leak location is the gasket where the disposal meets the flange [a ring connecting the disposal to the sink],” he says. While the leak is actually at the top of the unit, it drips down and could look like the water is escaping from the base. “The second potential leak location is the gasket where the drainpipe leaves the disposal.”

Cracked shell or corrosion

While less common, age-related cracks can form in the interior shell of the unit, leading to dripping from the base. Jeremy Gattozzi, Senior Category Manager of Disposals at Moen, says this is also true of corrosion.

Loose connections

Improper installation and time loosen screws, compromising the seal on your garbage disposal unit.

How to Identify the Source of a Garbage Disposal Leak

Identifying the source of the leak is your first step towards deciding if fixing a garbage disposal leaking from the bottom is possible. Gattozzi recommends disconnecting the unit and inspecting it for any clogs, cracks, corrosion or other visible damage. If you don’t see anything obvious, he suggests conducting a leak test using the following steps:

1. Fill the sink with water.
2. Wrap paper towels around the sink flange at the top of the unit to help identify if there’s an issue with the upper gasket.
3. Wrap paper towels around the drain discharge (the elbow connecting the disposal base to the pipework) to identify any issues with the lower gasket.
4. Release the water from the sink and check if the paper towels are wet.

If you can’t identify the source of the leak from your disposal, it could be coming from elsewhere. You might need to fix a leaky faucet, countertop seams or dishwasher.

Can You Fix a Garbage Disposal Leaking From the Bottom?

Whether you can fix a garbage disposal leaking from the bottom depends on the cause of the drips and the condition of the unit.

• Loose connections: A DIY or inexpensive pro fix is typically possible.
• Corrosions or cracks: You’ll need to invest in a new disposal.
• Faulty gaskets: It’s possible to fit new gaskets. “However, by the time they start leaking, the disposal has generally exceeded its lifespan, and replacement should be considered,” King says.
• Other seal failures: Some units have internal seals that aren’t designed to be replaced, or if one goes, others are likely to follow. In these instances, replacement is the best or only option.

How to Fix a Garbage Disposal Leaking From the Bottom

If you’re confident with your DIY skills and trace the leak to faulty gaskets, it’s possible to replace them. The guidelines below are high-level always check the disposal manual for model-specific instructions.

1. Clear out the space under your sink for convenient access.
2. Unplug and disconnect the garbage disposal wiring and water supply.
3. Use a wrench to remove the disposal.
4. Remove the rubber gasket at the top or base of the unit.
5. Replace with a new gasket.
6. For the flange gasket, add a new seal of plumber’s putty.
7. Reconnect the disposal and tighten the mounting rings.
8. Reconnect the water supply and power.

When to Call a Pro

While it’s possible to do basic repairs yourself, such as tightening loose screws or replacing gaskets, mistakes can be costly. Gattozzi recommends calling a professional if there’s extensive damage, you’re struggling to identify or stop the leaking, or you don’t feel comfortable attempting repairs.

King explains that a garbage disposal leaking from the bottom often signifies that the unit is nearing the end of its life. Sometimes, it can fail due to internal seal breakages and won’t be repairable. In these instances, replacement may be the only option. King also recommends calling a professional if you aren’t entirely confident in your ability to replace your garbage disposal unit.

FAQs

Why is my new garbage disposal leaking from the bottom?

“A bottom leak from a new garbage disposal is most likely due to an issue with the unit’s installation,” Gattozzi says. King says there’s a good chance the leak is coming from one of the two gaskets. Unlike leaks from older units, simple repairs under warranty typically resolve the issue.

Is a garbage disposal leak a sign I need to replace it?

The type of garbage disposal leak affects whether the unit needs replacing. Worn-out internal seals are the most common cause of leaks from the base of an older model. “If this is the case, then buying a new unit is your best move unless you’re still under your provider’s warranty,” Gattozzi says.

About the Experts

Jeremy Gattozzi is the Senior Category Manager of Disposals at Moen. The company is one of the world’s largest manufacturers of plumbing products, including garbage disposals; email interview, May. 13, 2024

Shaylin King owns Mr. Rooter of Tri-Cities, Yakima, and Hermiston, a Neighborly company. He is a 25-year journeyman plumber; email interview, May. 8, 2024.

The post Why Is My Garbage Disposal Leaking From the Bottom? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Rather than completely replacing a toilet, installing a new toilet seat is an easy and quick job that anyone can do to update or give their toilet a new feel. It requires only a few tools and a tape measure to complete. Honestly, getting the correct measurements before visiting the home center or ordering a new toilet seat online is the most challenging step.

Not all toilet seats are created equal. You could splurge and purchase a heated electric seat or a bidet toilet seat for around $180-$500 or purchase a basic seat starting at around $15. I bought a standard seat that didnt require additional setup (like an electric seat would). If you do upgrade to an electric toilet seat, refer to the manual for setup. Keep in mind most new seats will come with the fasteners you need to secure the seat to the toilet.

Remove the old toilet seat

Locate the fasteners holding the toilet seat to the bowl and loosen them with a wrench. The humidity in bathrooms often causes the nuts to corrode or rust onto the threaded bolts of the old toilet seats, making them difficult to remove. In this case, use a rust-penetrant spray to loosen the nuts of your toilet seat.

The post How To Replace a Toilet Seat appeared first on Family Handyman.

I spoke to a professional plumber and garbage disposal manufacturer to get their tips on safely removing glass in garbage disposals, to help protect your plumbing, fingers and in-sink macerator.

Safety Precautions

Glass and garbage disposal blades are a gnarly pairing. To minimize any risk, take the following precautions when removing glass in garbage disposals:

• “The first step should always be to turn off the garbage disposal’s power,” Jeremy Gattozzi, Senior Category Manager of Disposals at Moen, says.

• “Never put a hand into the unit to try to retrieve glass, as the glass could cut you and introduce lots of bacteria,” King says.

• Gattozzi recommends using appropriate protection. As a minimum, wear cut-resistant gloves.

How to Safely Remove Glass In a Garbage Disposal

1. Turn off the garbage disposal unit

It bears repeating that you should always turn off the garbage disposal before retrieving glass or any other item from it. If you want to be doubly protected, flip off the switch for the circuit breaker powering the unit.

2. Remove large shards with pliers or tongs

Trying to retrieve glass in garbage disposals by hand is a recipe for disaster. You’re unlikely to get a good grip, and you could easily injure yourself or break the glass into smaller, more tricky-to-pick-up pieces.

Use needle-nose pliers, mechanics grabber tools or kitchen tongs to pull out large glass pieces carefully. Don’t forget to don gloves, and King recommends arming yourself with a flashlight to get a better view into the hopper chamber.

3. Vacuum out smaller pieces

“Any remaining small pieces could be vacuumed out with a shop [wet/dry] vac,” Gattozzi says.

• Use the hose attachment to access the base of the hopper.

• Run the vacuum for a few minutes until you can’t hear any crunching.

• If you have a double sink, block the other drain to increase suction.

• Avoid using a standard vacuum cleaner unless the garbage disposal is completely dry. Getting the vacuum wet can lead to mold issues, malfunctioning, and, in worst-case scenarios, the risk of electrocution.

• Carefully empty the shop vac of glass pieces.

If you don’t have a shop vac, try cutting a medium-sized potato in half, push it onto a fork and insert it into the disposal cut end first. The small glass pieces often attach to the flesh, allowing you to lift them out. If there are many small pieces, you might have to use several potatoes to clear the unit of glass shards.

4. Rotate the blades

Sometimes, glass can get stuck or hidden under the disposal’s blades. Never turn the blades by hand. Instead, insert the hex key (Allen wrench) provided by the manufacturer at the unit’s base to move them. Alternatively, carefully insert a long wooden handle into the disposal to move them manually. Run the shop vac for a few more minutes or use another potato.

5. Dispose of glass safely

Don’t just throw the broken glass in your trash. Wrap it in paper, secure it with packing tape, and place it in a rigid, sealable container first.

6. Restore power

“Once you believe the unit’s chamber is cleared of all glass, you can restore power,” Gazzotti says. Covering the opening with a colander protects you from any unexpected remaining pieces of glass that could lift when you switch the unit on.

Run cold water through the disposal to flush out any tiny glass particles. If you hear grinding noises, bigger pieces of glass could remain. Switch off the power, repeat steps one to five, and then check again.

When to Call a Pro

“It doesn’t hurt to call a plumber if you don’t feel comfortable removing glass from the garbage disposal,” Gazzotti says. “It’s especially beneficial to call one if a piece of glass is deeply lodged in the unit, you run into issues attempting to remove the glass yourself, or you don’t have the proper tools to do the job.” Making a mistake and having to replace your garbage disposal will cost more than hiring a professional to remove the glass.

If you can’t remove the glass from the top of the unit, King explains it’ll need to be removed from the flange by turning the unit over and dumping it out. “This requires the unit to be disconnected from the drainage system and the flange,” he says. This is often a job best left to the professionals.

FAQs

Can a garbage disposal grind glass?

While a garbage disposal can grind small shards of glass, professionals don’t recommend it. Gazzotti explains that even the best garbage disposals are only designed to clean up biodegradable food waste. Hard, non-biodegradable objects can damage the blades and cause drainage issues.

Does glass break a garbage disposal?

“If you grind glass, it can damage the disposal, and glass particles may accumulate in the plumbing system, leading to clogs and further damage,” Gazzotti says.

What happens If I leave broken glass in my drain?

While small pieces of broken glass might wash away, avoid leaving it in your drains. Glass going down a drain can cause damage or clogged drains and be a hazard for individuals having to clear blockages in the sewer system.

About the Experts

Jeremy Gattozzi is the Senior Category Manager of Disposals at Moen. The company is one of the world’s largest manufacturers of plumbing products, including garbage disposals; email interview, Apr. 22, 2024

Shaylin King is the Owner of Mr. Rooter of Tri-Cities, Yakima, and Hermiston, a Neighborly company. He is a 25-year journeyman plumber; email interview, Apr. 25, 2024

The post How to Safely Remove Glass In a Garbage Disposal appeared first on Family Handyman.

If your garbage disposal is humming but not spinning, read on for expert troubleshooting tips and guidance from two licensed plumbers Liam Hogan from Hogan Mechanical Incorporated and Armand Lamour, a master plumber from Smith Vocational and Agricultural High School.

Why Is My Garbage Disposal Humming, but Not Spinning?

Your garbage disposal may be humming, but not spinning, for various reasons, like:

The garbage disposal is jammed

Most likely, it’s stuck. “Usually it’s some sort of particle jammed in the impeller,” Hogan says, which prevents the blades from turning. Lamour agrees. “A portion of the inner disposal workings is likely jammed,” he says. This can happen if a piece of food, a plastic bag or utensil becomes wedged into the blade impeller and stops it from rotating. “You’ll still hear the hum as it powers on, but nothing will happen,” Hogan says.

The garbage disposal motor has failed

Besides an obstruction, the motor or other mechanical components may be failing or faulty. “It could be a bearing wearing out or the motor dying,” Hogan says. According to Lamour, a damaged or broken motor can stop spinning the impeller despite having power.

How to Fix a Garbage Disposal That’s Humming

Immediately turn off a garbage disposal that is humming but not spinning to prevent damaging the unit. You can try a few things before calling in a pro, depending on your skill and comfort level.

Safety Precautions

Before attempting to troubleshoot, always turn off the power to the garbage disposal. Especially when jammed, the blade could suddenly move when freed. Keep fingers away from the blade at all times.

Steps or methods to troubleshoot

If the unit is humming, there’s still power going to the disposal. “If that’s the case, you can rule out an electrical issue,” Hogan says. Here are some troubleshooting steps if your garbage disposal is humming, but not spinning.

1. Turn off the power: Shut the power off at the disposal and the breaker and unplug the disposal if applicable.
2. Visually inspect for obstructions: Use a flashlight to look into the disposal chamber. Use long-handled pliers or tongs to remove any food or utensils you find carefully. “Never put your hand or fingers in the opening of the disposal,” Lamour says. Run the water and test the disposal.
3. Manually rotate the blades: If there are no obstructions, or the unit is still not working, insert an Allen key or disposal wrench (it comes with the unit) into the hex-shaped hole found at the bottom of the unit. Rotate the blade back and forth to help remove any remaining or unseen blockage. Turn the disposal flywheel only, do not try to move the blade directly with a tool or your fingers. Run the water and test the disposal.
4. Smell and listen: If the disposal is still not working, it’s likely not a blockage, but a bad mechanical part. Failing motors can give off a burning smell. “You might also hear a grinding noise coming from the motor,” Hogan says, so listen for any unusual sounds when operating the disposal. These point to a failing disposal that requires replacement.

When to Call a Pro

“If you are unable to see and remove an object causing a blockage in the disposal, you can not get the disposal to spin manually using the Allen key in the bottom, or the disposal is leaking into the motor windings, it is time to call in a professional,” Lamour says.

However, replacing a garbage disposal can be a straightforward DIY project if you are comfortable with the required skills and have the necessary tools.

FAQs

Do Garbage Disposals Go Bad?

“Anything mechanical can fail,” Hogan says, “However, you should expect 15 years of average use for a garbage disposal.”

How Do You Make a Garbage Disposal Last?

“Be mindful of what you put down them,” Hogan says. “In my home, we scrape plates into the garbage first, then rinse in the sink.” Lamour advises always to run the water when the disposal is turned on to keep the inside lubricated.

Regular cleaning can help extend the life of your disposal as well. “Grinding up lemon chunks every three weeks or so [keeps] the disposal smelling fresh and the acidity in the lemon juice will help free up stuck food particles,” Lamour says.

When Should You Replace Your Garbage Disposal?

If it goes bad and stops working, it’s definitely time to replace it. Hogan points out that if you’re doing a kitchen remodel, it’s a great time to put in a new disposal. “Tackle replacement then,” he says. Also, replacement makes sense if your disposal is starting to make loud noises, or if you’re looking for a quieter option.

About the Experts

• Liam Hogan is the owner of Hogan Mechanical Incorporated a full-service residential and commercial plumbing company in Springfield, Massachusetts. He has a Journeymans Plumbing License.
• Armand Lamour is a Plumbing Instructor at Smith Vocational and Agricultural High School in Northampton, Massachusetts. He holds a Master Plumbers license in Massachusetts, Connecticut and Rhode Island. Mr. Lamour has over twenty years experience in the field.

The post Why Is My Garbage Disposal Humming? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Measure the Tailpiece First

When installing a new sink, you can choose one with a deeper basin than the existing one, but if it hangs down too low, it won’t drain properly, and you’ll have to lower the sanitary tee connection in the drain line inside the wall. You’ll definitely want to avoid this task if the connection is metal and ends up being behind base cabinets. Plastic pipe is easierif you can get to it easily. The actual tee connection may be several studs over from where the waste arm enters the wall.

Measure the sink tailpiece between the basket strainer and the tee. That measurement is the extra depth that can be added to the sink bowl without lowering the drainpipe going into the wall. Also, be aware that a new disposer may have a lower drainpipe than your existing onebut it can’t be lower than the tee. If the disposer drainpipe will be too low, consider a sink with different depth bowls. You’ll have a deep bowl for dishes and a shallow one for the disposer.

The post Installing a New Sink: 11 Things to Watch Out For appeared first on Family Handyman.

A freestanding bookcase set on carpeting often wobbles and can even tip over. The problem usually occurs because carpet is held in place by tack strips placed along the perimeter of the room. When you set your bookcase (or any other furniture) over the strips, it wont sit level.

You have a couple of options.

Carpet Shims

Pull the carpet free of the tack strip, cut out a strip of padding where the front corners of the bookcase will sit, and replace the padding with a strip of wood thats the same thickness as the tack strip, usually 1/4 to 3/8 in.

Adjustable Feet

A second option is to install adjustable feet (called gliders; at home centers) on the corners of the bookcase. Theyre simple to installjust drill a hole and insert the feet. You wont have to mess with the carpet, but the feet may be noticeable, which you might not like.

Resist the temptation to simply remove the tack strip. The carpet can move, even under the weight of the bookcase, eventually resulting in a carpet wrinkle in the room.

Additional Tips

Regardless of the option you choose, we recommend securing the bookcase to the wall so it cant tip over. A child climbing or pulling on an unsecured bookcase could knock it over (hundreds of kids are injured each year by falling furniture). Fasten a furniture strap to the wall and the bookcase to keep it from tipping over. Or, fasten the bookcase to the wall by driving 3-in. screws through the back of the bookcase (at obscure locations) into studs (be sure you hit studs). A total of four screwstwo screws into two studsis plenty.

The post How To Stabilize a Bookcase on Carpeting? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Adjust Hinges on Misaligned Doors

When it comes to kitchen cabinet repair, hinges are a common issue. Euro hinges are designed for easy adjustment. If the door isnt flush with the doors next to it, adjust the depth screw. This screw moves the door in or out. Some depth screws move the door as you turn them.

But with most, you have to loosen the screw, nudge the door in or out and then tighten the screw. If your hinges dont have depth screws, start with the side screws. These move the door from side to side. In some cases, you have to loosen the depth screw slightly to adjust the side screw.

If the door is flush and parallel with other doors but too high or low, use the mounting screws to raise or lower the mounting plates. Loosen the screws at both hinges, slide the door up or down and tighten the screws. Some mounting plates adjust by turning a single screw. Check the fit of the door after each adjustment. With double doors like these, perfect the fit of one door first, then align the other door.

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During my last kitchen renovation, I wanted a functional yet beautiful sink. With that front of mind I was instantly drawn to apron and farmhouse sinks. Attractive focal points that can keep up with the demands of a busy kitchen, apron and farmhouse sinks instantly elevate the look of any kitchen. While the terms are often used interchangeably, some subtle differences are worth exploring.

Here to break down the nuances of apron sinks and farmhouse sinks are two kitchen design experts Annika Cooper from RK Miles and Kevin McIver from Cape Cod Lumber’s Homescapes Design Center and Showroom.

What Is a Farmhouse Sink?

Farmhouse sinks are a traditional style of sink with a finished, visible front and a large, deep basin. Originally used as a multipurpose workstation in busy farmhouse kitchens, these sinks were designed to wash large pots and pans, clean babies, and launder clothes all in the same space. The added apron front increased the sink’s working size to keep water from spilling onto the floor and reduce back strain during use.

Today’s farmhouse sinks bear their predecessors’ look and workhorse reputation, including the hallmark rounded edges of the originals.

A farmhouse sink is usually an oversized single-basin design but can also include a built-in drainboard and backsplash.

Types of Farmhouse Sinks

• Enameled cast iron
• Fireclay
• Porcelain

How Much Does a Farmhouse Sink Cost?

Expect to pay $600 to $1,800 or more for farmhouse sinks. Cooper recommends skipping cheaper models and instead investing in a quality sink with a thicker, more durable enamel layer that will resist scratches and staining.

Farmhouse Sink Pros and Cons

Pros

One of the biggest perks of a farmhouse sink is the deep, wide basin that makes cleaning large items easier. This sink type also creates a more comfortable user experience with less stooping and reaching to use the sink.

Beyond functionality, farmhouse sinks are an aesthetically pleasing kitchen centerpiece that can have beautifully fluted or curved apron details. Regarding apron sinks vs. farmhouse sinks, farmhouse sinks have the advantage of built-in backsplash and drain board options.

Cons

While the large size is a draw for many fans of a farmhouse sink, the lost counter space and under-cabinet space can be problematic, especially in a smaller kitchen. The large basin also takes a long time to fill and drain. “You may find yourself using a lot more water to wash just a few dishes,” Cooper says.

Enameled cast iron is the classic farmhouse sink material, which can be difficult to keep clean. Metal pans or racks left in the sink can quickly leave rust stains, and scratches in the enamel, trap dirt and make cleaning more challenging.

Cast iron sinks are also very heavy and need to be installed correctly. When filled with water, these sinks can crack if not supported correctly. “These really should be installed by someone with experience,” Cooper says. This adds to installation costs, which is another con of this sink style.

What Is an Apron Sink?

An apron sink is a modern take on the more traditional farmhouse sink. With square edges and simple lines, apron sinks have a more contemporary design that suits a variety of home styles.

While apron sinks are still large, you may be able to find some with smaller dimensions.

How Much Does an Apron Sink Cost?

“A lot more expensive than an average sink,” Cooper says. Costs will start at about $600 and can go up to $1,500 to $1,800 or higher for higher grade materials and designs. “Copper apron sinks can be very costly,” Cooper says.

Types of Apron Sinks

Apron sinks are typically made of four materials types.

• Granite composite
• Stainless steel
• Copper
• Soapstone

Apron Sink Pros and Cons

Pros

Apron sinks are more versatile due to their modern styling. They look good in transitional, contemporary, industrial and modern-style kitchens. “There are a lot of different sink designs to choose from,” McIver says.

When it comes to apron sinks vs. farmhouse sinks, apron sinks can be easier to install if they are lighter, stainless steel models. “These are easier and can cost less to install,” Cooper says.

Cons

Apron sinks are better suited to new construction and remodeling projects. “They’re difficult to integrate into a typical sink base, and usually require one meant for apron front sinks,” McIver says. Typical sink bases are not constructed to fit the extended sink front or to support the added weight. He recommends professional installation to avoid cabinet damage during installation.

“One con of an apron sink is it gets your belly wet at the sink [due to the exposed apron front],” Cooper says. McIver points to another water spillage problem. “If water splashes up over the sink, it drips onto the cabinet below,” he says. “If you’re careful and clean up after it’s not a big deal, but water is a cabinet’s worst enemy.” He says some models offer a drip edge on the apron’s underside to prevent this problem.

Apron Sink vs. Farmhouse Sink: Which Is Right for Me?

When it comes down to which sink is best for you, “it really comes down to which look do you prefer,” Cooper says. If you have a modern home aesthetic, then an apron sink in stainless steel may be your right choice. If you prefer a more traditional or rustic design, then a farmhouse sink is the way to go.

About the Experts

Annika Cooper is a kitchen and bath designer at RK Miles in Barre, Vermont. She has over fifteen years of experience in the industry.

Kevin McIver is a kitchen designer for Cape Cod Lumber’s Homescapes Design Center and Showroom located in Abington, Massachusetts. He has been a kitchen designer for 40 plus years.

The post Apron Sink vs. Farmhouse Sink: What’s the Difference? appeared first on Family Handyman.

What is PEX Piping?

PEX piping (shorthand for cross-linked polyethylene) costs less than half the price of copper and installs much faster. And since its flexible, PEX makes remodeling jobs easier. PEX has a strong memory;” it always wants to spring back to its original shape. So working with a coil of PEX is like wrestling with a giant Slinky. For most jobs, youre better off buying 10-ft. sticks instead. You may have to pay a few cents more per foot and install a coupler or two, but youll avoid frustration and kinks. Even plumbers who run miles of PEX every year often buy sticks than coils.

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Here are eight of those DIY options for updating kitchen cabinets.

Replace Hardware

Replacing outdated handles and hinges can dramatically change the look and style of your cabinets, with minimal work. Choose new handles and knobs that coordinate with updated finishes or add a welcome pop of color.

Hinge replacement is a favorite cabinet update of Jeff Shipwash, owner of Shipwash Contracting. He recommends replacing old hinges with soft close-style hinges, a project that takes less than a day. It involves a lot of unscrewing and re-screwing, but depending on your new hardware can cost less than $100 for an average kitchen.

Replacing outdated handles and knobs can cost even less, unless you choose high-end hardware. This is one of the best low-budget kitchen cabinet upgrades you can make.

Complete Refinish

Refinishing, re-staining or painting kitchen cabinets can give them a new look without total replacement. For refinishing kitchen cabinets, Shipwash says, “The key is to do it slow, and do it right. Refinishing cabinets is not a difficult job, but it does require some tedious work in order to get a great finish.”

You’ll need a drill, wood filler or putty, a palm sander, paint sprayer and plastic drop cloths, as well as your stain or paint.

Whether you’re staining or painting the cabinets, start by removing all the cabinet doors, drawers and hardware. Then Shipwash recommends making any necessary repairs to the cabinets, like covering scratches or chips with wood filler. Use the palm sander to remove any buildup and achieve a smooth finish.

Thoroughly vacuum any dust and clean all the cabinet components. Shipwash recommends using a high-quality paint sprayer and covering surrounding areas in plastic. This project should take two to four days and cost $100 to $500, depending on materials.

Wallpaper the Interior

If you have glass cabinet doors, adding patterned wallpaper to the interior gives a pop of color to your kitchen without much work or mess. We’d recommend peel-and-stick wallpaper for this because it’s easy to install and removable, a great option for rental properties. You’ll need scissors, a tape measure, X-Acto knife and plastic wallpaper smoother.

First, take out the removable shelves and measure the interior spaces. Cut wallpaper to size, leaving an extra inch or two for trimming. Pay attention to the pattern and match the edges accordingly. Use a wallpaper spreader to ensure a smooth finish and prevent air bubbles. Press gently so you don’t stretch the paper.

Price per roll for peel-and-stick wallpaper varies from $10 to $100, depending on the quality and manufacturer.

Convert Wood Doors to Glass

Changing your wood cabinet doors to glass can make a small kitchen feel less cramped. Plus it lets you showcase your favorite dishes and glassware.

You can order the glass panels from a hardware store. You’ll also need a router, drill, clamps, scrap plywood, glass clips and utility knife.

After removing the doors, create a guide with clamps and plywood and use the router to cut out the center panel of the door. Then lay the glass in place and secure it with glass clips.

If you own a router, the entire project should cost around $25 per door. A router and bit will add another $100 to $200. Give yourself a full day to complete this task.

Add Lighting

Shipwash says adding lighting underneath your existing cabinetry gives it an upscale appearance. And since it doesn’t require any electrical work, it’s easy to DIY. We’ve used LED strips like these with great success. Simply plug them into an existing outlet and attach the lights to the bottom of your cabinets with adhesive or clip mounts.

Measure your cabinets so you purchase the right length. And be sure there’s an outlet nearby to plug in your lights, unless you choose a battery-powered option. In an average kitchen it should cost less than $100.

If you’re confident enough to hard-wire lights yourself, this handy guide can explain how it’s done.

Switch to Open Shelving

With a few modifications, you can transform upper cabinets into open shelving, allowing easy access and modern style to your kitchen. Start by switching a few cabinets, and add more if you decide you like it. You’ll need a pull saw to create flat, smooth cuts; sandpaper; wood putty; a drill; and your choice of paint or wallpaper for the interiors.

First, remove the existing doors and hinges. Use the pull saw to remove the center stile. Sand and putty any screw holes and rough edges. Then cover the interior however you like paint, wallpaper, be creative!.

This project can take a day or a weekend, depending on how many cabinets you’re converting. The cost is low, especially if you have all of the necessary tools .

Add Crown Molding

If your kitchen cabinets stop abruptly above the doors, the addition of crown molding can give them a new, more elegant look. You’ll need a finish nailer, 18-gauge brad nails, a miter saw, wood filler, trim caulk, wood glue and the crown molding itself.

Measure around the tops of your cabinets to determine how many feet of molding you need. Choose crown molding that blends in best in your kitchen.

Use a miter saw to cut the corners and the finish nailer to secure the molding in place. Plug the nail holes with wood filler and corners with trim caulk, allow them to dry, then paint or stain. Crown molding can cost $1 to $40 per linear foot depending on the material, with prices varying greatly by region.

Reface Cabinets

Refacing your kitchen cabinets is yet another way to dramatically update them. This involves keeping the cabinet boxes, covering the exterior surfaces with a self-sticking wood veneer and replacing the doors and draw fronts to match. This is a big project, but if you’re up for the challenge, refacing results in cabinets that look like new.

Besides the veneer, new doors and drawer fronts, you’ll need a laminate splitter, paper cutter, veneer roller and a sanding sponge.

First, clean the cabinets with denatured alcohol and sand them just enough to create a scuff for the veneer to attach. With a laminate splitter, cut the veneer into strips. Then use the paper cutter to trim those strips to the proper length.

Next, apply the veneer to the cabinet frames, pressing it into place with the roller. Hang the new doors and install the drawer faces according to their instructions. Depending on the number of cabinets you are refacing and the quality of door and drawer fronts and veneer you choose, this project can cost around $6,000 for an average size kitchen.

The post Make Your Kitchen Cabinets Look Brand New Without Replacing Them appeared first on Family Handyman.

Whether you need extra storage in your kid’s bedroom closet or your entryway, a cube cubby storage system is an easy solution that looks great. I added rattan to the back for a customized look that screams boho. I also love using natural elements in my decor, and rattan is a great way to do just that.

Project Overview

Cutting List

Safety Considerations

During the cutting, sanding, nailing and finishing of the wood components for this project, make sure to wear appropriate eye, ear and dust protection.

Cut wood pieces and lay out rattan

Cut the wood pieces and trim from the cutting list above using a miter saw. Take your time at the home center to select straight lumber that’s free of large knots or cracks in crucial locations.

For the rattan, it needs to cover at least 26-1/4-in. by 38-1/4-in. It’s unlikely you’ll find these exact measurements. I had to purchase two pieces of rattan and cut them to fit each side of the cubby. When working with two pieces of rattan, you need the seam to align so you can hide it behind a shelf or divider, which can be challenging.

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What Is a Random Orbital Sander?

Also know as a random orbit sander, it’s easily one of the most useful tools in any DIYer’s collection, it’s a handheld power tool that rotates and vibrates randomly, in overlapping circles, so that it doesn’t leave a grind pattern in the surface of the wood you’re sanding.

Random orbital sanders work far more aggressively and quickly than orbital finishing sanders. The circular bases spin at about 10,000 rpm while wiggling about 1/8 in. off center at the same time. This creates a truly random sanding pattern, which removes wood quickly and minimizes swirl marks. This speedy randomness also allows you to smooth joints where the rails and stiles of your cabinets meet at right angles.

Note, random orbital sanders are different than palm sanders. Sometimes called quarter-sheet sanders because of the size of the sandpaper sheet it uses, palm sanders are smaller and feature a square pad that can fit into corners where a round sander can’t go. They’re best used for light duty sanding work, touch-ups and getting into tight corners.

Why Not Use an Orbital Finishing Sander?

All in all, theres really nothing wrong with square-based, orbital finishing sanders. They vibrate the sandpaper in thousands of little orbits. Theyre easy to control and theyre inexpensive to operate, since they use standard sandpaper in one-sixth, one-quarter, one-third or half sheets.

Orbital finishing sanders can leave small spiral swirls on wood if youre not meticulous, but by sanding down through 180-grit, you can avoid this. But random orbital sanders take things a step further.

Many woodworkers find they only need to go down to 100- to 120-grit paper with their random orbital sander for surfaces that will be painted or receive a clear finish. (For surfaces that are to be stained, consider a light hand-sanding with the grain to remove any and all remaining swirl marks.) But beware, the aggressiveness of a random orbital sander can cut through a veneer or damage the edge of a board in a flash. It takes a few tries to learn how to control them.

Also, at a buck a sheet, the adhesive or Velcro-backed sandpaper discs are spendy, but youll work faster and wind up with better-looking cabinets.

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