What Is Electric Wallpaper?

Electric wallpaper is typically installed on ceilings. It contains thin strips of copper and graphene, which utilize infrared technology to produce heat. Michelle Ansell, Project Manager for electric wallpaper manufacturer NexGen, explains that this low-level, invisible-to-the-naked-eye light works similarly to how the sun provides warmth.

Traditional convection systems heat the surrounding air, but infrared heats people and objects directly. “The energy from infrared sinks directly into us humans first,” Ansell explains. “Then it’s absorbed into and stored within the furniture and fabric of the building. So walls, floors, and everything you touch has a comfortable, even temperature.”

Ansell explains that the NexGen investors wanted to tackle fuel poverty and provide a low-cost, low-carbon, efficient and green heating technology. “Currently, in the UK, we’re targeting social housing,” she says. “We’ve got pilots running up and up and down the country.”

One of the major pilots involves a collaboration between researchers at Strathclyde and Glasgow Universities, Glasgow City Council and the West of Scotland Housing Association, with funding from Scotland Beyond Net Zero. Scotland has an ambitious target to reach net zero greenhouse gases by 2045. Given 84 percent of Scottish homes use gas heating, clean energy alternatives to fossil fuels are a priority.

The trials are focusing on social housing in old, poorly insulated, mold-prone tenement buildings in Glasgow, and so far, the feedback and results have been positive.

Benefits of Electric Wallpaper

Below are some reasons why silent, inconspicuous electric wallpaper has the potential to be a viable alternative to traditional home heating methods.

Energy-efficient and eco-friendly

Electric wallpaper is an energy-efficient, low-carbon home heating option that doesn’t rely on fossil fuels. Hooking the electrics up to roof solar panels makes it even more eco-friendly and cuts your heating bills further.

Electric wallpaper heats rooms quickly (within minutes), and because the heat sinks into the objects, the room retains warmth well after you switch it off. Electric wallpaper also covers a large surface area, producing a consistent temperature across the room. Ansell says this avoids those cold spots you get from convection heaters, making it especially useful for hard-to-heat homes. “Every time you open a window or a door, that warm air is not escaping because we’re not heating the air,” she says.

“The efficiencies also come because you don’t have to heat the whole home,” Ansell says. “Each room becomes its own targeted individual zone.”

Protects against mold

Mold thrives on damp surfaces prone to gathering condensation. Because the infrared technology of electric wallpaper generates warmth on and within the surfaces of your home, it can effectively wick away mold-encouraging moisture.

Ansell explains that smart technology monitors humidity levels. “If it senses you’re at a point where condensation, damp and mold can form, there is an override switch that can automatically kick in to raise the room’s temperature,” she says.

Affordable to buy and install

Exact prices are not yet available in the U.S. However, despite electric wallpaper being a new-to-the-market product, you don’t have to worry about it costing an arm and a leg.

“In the UK at the moment, we are cheaper than an air source heat pump in terms of physical product and installation,” Ansell says. “We are on par or cheaper than a gas boiler.”

Easy to install

You don’t want to DIY install electric wallpaper unless you’re a licensed electrician. However, it’s usually easier and quicker to install than a gas boiler or furnace. A decorator can install the rolls of wallpaper to your ceiling with a standard adhesive, and then an electrician will wire it in. “When we install it, all the cables get hidden behind coving or trunking in rooms, just to tidy them away,” Ansell says. You can then paint the ceiling as you would normally. “The only caveat is you can’t put black paint on it,” Ansell says. “It affects the efficiency of the infrared energy coming into the room.”

Low-maintenance

Another cost-saving and convenient benefit of electric wallpaper is that it’s low maintenance. Ansell describes it as “fit-and-forget.”

“We give a 15-year guarantee, but really, it’s the lifetime of the house because there are no moving parts to it, and it’s out of reach,” she says. “The paper is fireproof and water-resistant as well.”

Space-saving

Electric wallpaper can be beneficial in small, multifunctional rooms with limited wall space. Ansell says the ceiling installation gives people back the space in front of the radiators.

Drawbacks of Electric Wallpaper

While the trial results are encouraging, electric wallpaper is a new product. Data on true longevity, running costs, and efficiency are still being scrutinized.

Plus, if you’re installing electric wallpaper in an existing home rather than a new build construction, you need to factor in the costs associated with removing the existing heating system, and you’ll also need a water heating system.

Ansell explains that, with the ceiling installation, electric wallpaper is less prone to damage. However, she cautions, “If you’re moving tall furniture around that might scrape the ceiling, that might damage it.”

Is Electric Wallpaper Available in the U.S.?

Electric wallpaper isn’t currently widely available in the U.S. However, Ansell explains that NexGen is on track to introduce its product to the U.S. homeowner market in the summer of 2025.

About the Expert

• Michelle Ansell is a Project Manager at NexGen Carbon Zero Limited. The company specializes in electric wallpaper production with the goal of decarbonizing heating and providing affordable warmth; video interview, Oct. 31, 2024.

The post Hot Trends in Home Heating: Electric Wallpaper appeared first on Family Handyman.

Sprucing up an existing structure sounds appealing, but is it a good idea? If you’re planning on sleeping there, or renting it out, there are tons of legal and safety considerations to keep in mind. For backyard workshops and she-sheds, you have more flexibility. Below, we talked to Kathryn Linea Rund, a designer and expert in land use and code compliance, to help you decide how to manage your backyard space.

Tiny Home vs. ADU: What’s the Difference?

First, let’s clear up some terminology. What’s the difference between a tiny home and an ADU? Can you use the terms interchangeably? Sometimes, Rund says. It really depends on the location, and who you ask.

What is a tiny home?

For two short little words, “tiny home” can mean different things to different people, Rund says. “Many people believe that a tiny home is on wheels and a chassis, like their affordable predecessor before them, the single wide trailer.” Others go by square footage, with a cutoff of 200 square feet. Oregon, where Rund lives, defines the term as “structures designed to provide low-cost or minimally sized housing options for consumers.”

What is an ADU?

Accessory dwelling units are a little more self-explanatory, Rund says. An ADU is “an accessory dwelling to the main dwelling of the property.” It’s a zoning term, with strict legal implications. While tiny homes can be the only home on a piece of land, an ADU by definition cannot. “This would be a completely different structure and residence from the existing residential structure and dwelling,” Rund says.

In other words: “A tiny home can be an ADU, and an ADU can be a tiny home, but not all ADUs are tiny homes, and not all tiny homes are ADUs,” Rund says.

Adding an ADU: What to Consider

Judging by the number of TV shows and YouTube stars out there talking up the ADU/tiny home movement, it may be tempting to throw a coat of paint on your shed, install some solar lights and call it a day. And that’s fine if you just want a chill backyard space to do crafts or relax and read.

But if you’re looking to build a lasting investment, doing your homework is important. That starts with zoning. “Zoning is essential when considering adding an ADU,” Rund says. “Every state, county, and city is different.” Here are the major zoning implications Rund recommends you consider before jumping in:

Permitting

“Depending on the zoning, you may be allowed to place an ADU outright,” Rund says. Other areas may only allow ADU under what’s called a “conditional use permit,” which is basically an exception to the zoning law. Some places don’t allow ADUs at all. “The purpose of the zones really governs what the property can be used for,” Rund says, so it’s important to check with your city planning and permitting office.

Footprint requirements

“Footprint requirements in the different zones can be problematic for developing an ADU,” Rund says. “Most of the time, land use codes will regulate the amount of development and open space on a piece of property using two tactics, setbacks and lot coverage.”

• Setbacks create a “bubble of non-buildable space around the inside perimeter of the property,” Rund says. “Structures are not allowed to encroach into this space, thus, you can limit the building size, relative to the property lines.”
• Lot coverage requirements set a maximum percentage of the property that can have residential structures. This is usually between 30% and 60%, Rund says, more for higher density zoning. This “naturally limits the size of your dwelling.”

Zone density

Rund says zone density controls the look and feel of a neighborhood. “Lower density zoning usually has a larger dwelling minimum size,” such as 1,000 square feet for the ground floor. As the density rises, the dwelling can be smaller. “It is not uncommon to see minimum limits bottom out at 500 square feet,” Rund says, eliminating any chance of “true tiny homes.”

Parking and other considerations

Are you considering driving an Airstream trailer into your backyard and hanging up a shingle? Again, these things are regulated. “If the home is on a trailer, they are considered RVs, and are banned from being used as a permanent dwelling in many city codes,” Rund says. Cities limit where you can place them, and they’re not adding value since they’re not considered real property.

“Other considerations are the parking requirements per dwelling,” Rund says. Cities often require hard surface driveways, and have carport and garage requirements when people develop a new residence on their property.

Can I Convert My Shed into an AD?U

Rund advises against it. “I would not recommend converting a shed into a tiny home for multiple reasons, but mostly because it is unsafe and not saving you any money,” Rund says. Homes are built “with specific fire-rated construction so that they burn without failing for several hours, so that people have time to wake up and escape,” Rund says. “Sheds are not built to this standard.”

“You could buy a shed and bring it up to code with full renovations, but it won’t save you any money, and it will only be more problematic than designing an actual tiny home,” Rund says.

About the Expert

Kathryn Linea Rund is the Strategic Design and Development Advisor at Real Estate Bees. She’s an expert in land use and code compliance, CAD/BIM and residential and sustainable design. She’s also the owner of Kathryn Linea Rund Design Studios of Sweet Home, Oregon.

The post Can You Turn a Shed Into a Tiny Home? Here’s What to Know appeared first on Family Handyman.

I purchased my first home in 2003, but its gas furnace looked like it was manufactured during the Carter administration. It cost a huge amount of money to operate and habitually switched itself off at inopportune times. We gave it a nickname, Clarice, because we had to visit so frequently to relight the pilot light.

Knowing what I know now, I could probably have squeezed a few more years of service from Clarice. Instead, we went ahead and replaced it. That’s when I started to get smart about furnaces.

Clarice was indeed an inefficient relic and should have been replaced sooner. Modern furnaces must hit an annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE) rate of 80 percent, and no repair could bring Clarice to those standards. These days, gas furnaces are even more efficient some close to 100 percent and they don’t fill the atmosphere with pollutants.

If you’re moving into your first home, say goodbye to the halcyon days of complaining to the landlord when your furnace doesn’t work. It’s worth taking the time to know your furnace better. That way you can give it the TLC it needs, and tell the difference between repairs you can do yourself and those that need professional attention.

What Is a Furnace?

A furnace is an appliance that generates heat usually enough to supply an entire building. It does this by burning a fuel or passing electricity through resistive heating elements.

A furnace isn’t the same as a heat pump, which transfers heat from outdoors into the building. If your central heat system doesn’t include an air conditioner, and it’s connected to an outdoor unit with a fan, you have a heat pump that requires different maintenance than a furnace.

How Does a Furnace Work?

A furnace works in conjunction with a room thermostat and an electronic control panel.

When the thermostat detects the room temperature has fallen below its preset minimum, it sends a signal to the control system to switch on the heat. A blower housed in a structure called the air handler also switches on and circulates warm air through the ductwork system.

Many homeowners find furnaces intimidating because of complicated control system. Furnaces contain safety sensors, switches and high-limit fuses that wear out or malfunction periodically. While homeowners can address some of these issues, diagnosis and repair are usually best left to a qualified technician.

Types of Furnaces

Virtually all modern furnaces are housed in rectangular metal boxes and classified by the type of fuel used. Most furnaces operate in conjunction with an air handler that connects to the supply and the return ducts. That’s where the blower is located. Air handlers may be separate from the furnace.

Electric

Electric furnaces feature a high-voltage heating element. The blower draws air into the heating element, then circulates it back through the ducts. Electric furnaces have no combustion chamber and don’t require a flue.

Standard-efficiency natural gas/propane

These require a combustion chamber and a flue. Heat created in the sealed combustion chamber is transferred to the blower through a thermally conductive plate called a heat exchanger. Combustion gases exhaust through the flue, which extends through the roof into the open air.

High-efficiency natural gas/propane

Also known as condensing furnaces, these have an AFUE greater than 90.

Instead of a flue, they utilize a secondary heat exchanger, basically a set of coils where combustion gases cool and condense. Condensation produces heat, which combines with the heat from the primary exchanger and circulates via the blower. The byproduct, known as condensate, is carried away by a PVC drain that extends through the wall.

Heating oil

Like standard efficiency gas furnaces, oil-burning furnaces also feature a combustion chamber, heat exchanger and exhaust flue. A fuel pump sprays oil into the combustion chamber. Oil-burning furnaces are popular in regions of the Northern U.S. and Canada where fuel oil may be cheaper than gas.

How Long Does a Furnace Last?

Electric furnaces tend to last longer that gas or oil furnaces (up to 20 years) because they contain fewer parts and no combustion chamber. A gas or oil furnace can last for 15 years. It isn’t unusual for homeowners to keep their furnaces longer than that, but performance usually suffers.

How to Maintain a Furnace

The top maintenance task for homeowners with a furnace is replacing the air filters regularly. There’s one in the air handler and usually one in the main return register in the house. This should be done every three months of continuous operation to maintain furnace performance and keep the indoor air free of contaminants.

Other important maintenance tasks include:

• Clean the blower: At least once a year, turn the furnace off, let it cool, open the air handler and brush dust off the blower fins and the motor. If you notice squeaking or grinding sounds when the blower is running, spray some lubricant along the axis where the fins rotate.
• Dust off the heat exchanger: Dust inhibits heat flow. Wipe it off with a dry rag.
• Inspect the ducts: Look for holes, tears or gaps in the ductwork and patch them with aluminum foil tape (not duct tape).

If you own a gas furnace, do these additional tasks:

• Check the ignition system and flame condition: Remove the front cover and have someone turn on the furnace while you watch to make sure the ignition system is working properly. All the flames should be blue. If any are orange or yellow, or they sputter, the burners need to be professionally cleaned.
• Clean the flame sensor: Once a year, remove the flame sensor following the instructions in your owner’s manual, and clean it with sandpaper. Over time, it tends to be covered in soot that it can’t detect a flame and shuts down the furnace.

Furnace Troubleshooting

Furnace malfunctions usually mean something is wrong with the control circuitry or the thermostat settings. Always check the thermostat before assuming anything else is wrong.

It’s also important to check the circuit breaker that controls the furnace to make sure it hasn’t tripped. If your gas furnace shuts down frequently, try cleaning the flame sensor. Other problems are best left to pros for diagnosis and repair.

Note: If you smell gas in the furnace room, turn off the furnace and call an HVAC technician immediately.

How Much Does It Cost to Replace a Furnace?

Depending on the type of furnace, it can run from $3,000 to $7,600, including labor and permits. Electric furnaces are easiest to replace and cost the least, while high-efficiency gas furnaces cost the most.

Furnace Alternatives

A heat pump is a viable alternative to a furnace in many parts of North America except for those with extremely cold temperatures. Contemporary models can heat a home when the outdoor temperature is minus-10 degrees. Beginning in 2023, the federal government will offer incentives for homeowners looking to install a new one.

A wood stove or pellet stove can efficiently heat a home with an open floor plan. A hydronic heat system with a central boiler and radiators, baseboard heaters or in-floor pipes spread throughout the house is an increasingly popular heating option.

Furnace FAQs: Common Questions and Parts Explained

Whether you’re trying to understand how your furnace works or troubleshooting issues, here are the answers to some of the most common furnace questions.

• How Does a Gas Furnace Work?
• What Are Furnace Energy Efficiency Ratings?
• Understanding the Different Parts of a Furnace
• What That Furnace Switch Is For
• What Is a Furnace Heat Exchanger?
• What Is a Furnace Inducer Motor?
• What Does a Furnace Pressure Switch Do?
• How Much Will It Cost to Replace a Furnace Blower Motor?
• Boilers vs. Furnaces: What’s the Difference?
• How to Choose Between a Heat Pump vs. a Furnace

The post A Homeowner’s Guide to Furnaces appeared first on Family Handyman.

Actually, engineers and scientists are working on that. They’re figuring out ways to collect the sun’s energy on everything from car rooftops to windbreakers to the roof shingles of our homes.

“For the past decade, solar, integrated shingles have been the Holy Grail for roofers who are interested in solar,” says Matt Weiner of Golden Group Roofing and Solar in Massachusetts. “But what’s basically happened is that because it’s currently an expensive product, it really only appeals to a relatively small part of the market.”

What Are Solar Roof Shingles?

Solar roof shingles collect energy from the sun like traditional solar panels. But instead of being installed above the roof, they’re the actual roofing. A typical installation combines regular shingles on shady sections of the roof with solar shingles in the sunniest areas.

Several companies make solar shingles, each with their own style. Tesla and GAF Energy are the largest manufacturers.

“They each have unique designs which integrate into the roofing system for an aesthetically pleasing look,” says Weiner. “Suntegra and Luma are more niche manufacturers. Their solar shingles are similar to solar panels and use common solar materials which are integrated into a watertight frame.”

Are Solar Roof Shingles Legal?

Yes. Solar shingles must go through the same rigorous testing as other home electrical systems to become Underwriters Laboratory (UL) approved. However, manufacturers don’t have certified contractors in every state.

How Much Do Solar Roof Shingles Cost?

That depends. Variables include the size of the system and where you are in the country. But in general, installed solar shingles cost around five times as much as traditional roofing materials. If you measure their cost in watt hours, solar shingles cost between 25% and 100% or more per watt hour than traditional solar panels.

Some of that cost is offset by not buying and installing a separate roof covering. But with current technologies, it still costs considerably more than purchasing the two separately.

“It makes sense if the technology is there to combine them into one product and one installation,” says Weiner. “Theoretically that’s going to be a cost savings, but there’s still probably another generation or two to really get us there.”

Are Solar Roof Shingles Rebates and Tax Breaks Available?

Yes. Solar roof shingles are eligible for the same rebates and tax breaks as solar panels. This includes a 30% federal tax credit and other state and local tax incentives, some associated with the Inflation Reduction Act.

Bonus: Because you’re replacing the roof as part of the installation, the tax credit covers the cost of the entire roof and solar system, versus just the cost of the solar panels.

Are Solar Roof Shingles Worth It?

Maybe. If you can afford them, they’re a good option for combining a sleek aesthetic with the benefits of solar.

“I do think it’s worth it,” says Weiner. “But only for the right customer. Solar shingles appeal to someone who really wants their house to stand out and is willing to pay for that.”

Solar roof shingle pros

• Curb appeal;
• Less chance of leaking because one company installs the roof and panels;
• Similar life span to traditional solar panels and roofs;
• Durability, especially in high wind areas.

Solar roof shingle cons

• Cost;
• Not as efficient in watt hours, so it’s harder to maximize rooftop energy production;
• Not as good for hot climates, since there’s no airspace underneath for cooling (when solar materials get warm, the voltage drops);
• No passive home cooling effect like with solar panels, which add shade to the roof and reduce heat transfer from the sun into the house.

The Future of Solar Roof Shingles

“To date, solar shingles have not lived up to their promise of providing homeowners with cost-effective, highly efficient and aesthetically pleasing solar systems,” says Weiner. “But ultimately they will be the go-to solar product.”

Weiner says GAF Energy, one of the largest roofing manufacturers in the country (and his former employer), wants to make the technology worthwhile on a large scale. The company just built a second manufacturing plant while expanding its certified roofing contractor network.

“They’re investing millions of dollars in the technology and their leadership firmly believes in this is the way that that solar is going,” says Weiner. “So it’s ultimately going happen, I believe, but the timeframe is still unknown.

“It’s just proven to be more difficult to really get these two systems to integrate. And at the same time, innovation is happening very rapidly with solar panels, and the solar roofing industry has to compete with that as well.”

The post What To Know About Solar Roof Shingles appeared first on Family Handyman.

In our race to cut our greenhouse gas emissions, it’s a dinosaur. Today’s more efficient technology means our future depends on going electric.

“The only eco-friendly heating system is an electric heat pump system,” says Panama Bartholomy, executive director of the Building Decarbonization Coalition. “The good news is, there are many types of them.

“If you have a ducted system, you can use a standard heat pump or a ducted mini-split. If you don’t have any ducts and are looking to replace something like a wall heater or baseboard heaters, you could use a ductless mini-split system. There are even companies that make heat pumps that go in your window.”

Electricity-driven heating is today’s gold standard. Before the HVAC systems we install today reach the end of their lifespans, it’s possible the grid will be heavily if not entirely powered by carbon-free energy sources.

Non-fuel burning devices also reduce health-damaging air pollution in our homes and usually deliver big on energy savings. They’re up to to five times more efficient than furnaces.

Here are some eco-friendly heating system options. And don’t forget the cost can be partly covered by tax credits and rebates included in the new Inflation Reduction Act (IRA) .

Air-Source Heat Pumps

These are essentially air conditioners that run in reverse, with outside air providing heating and cooling to your home. They come in several configurations:

• Packaged, as in window and portable stand-alone units;
• Ductless and ducted mini-splits;
• Ducted central heat pumps.

Window units and mini-splits offer DIY installation and usually cost well under $1,000. Full HVAC systems can run between $3,000 and $18,000. Cost depends on whether you need electrical and ductwork upgrades; home size and required heating capacity; climate in your location; and what you’re replacing. These systems typically last around 14 years.

If you’re thinking about going with an air-sourced heat pump, also keep in mind:

• The best systems offer a heating seasonal performance factor (HSPF) of 10.5, a seasonal energy efficiency rating (SEER) of 20 or higher and a coefficient of performance (COP) of 3 or better.
• If you live where it’s cold in the winter, make sure the installer installing is familiar with the NEEP cold-climate air source heat pump list. Ask for one that works well down to minus-5 degrees or lower.
• If you’re in the market for an air conditioner, don’t buy a standalone. “Instead, buy a heat pump version that can provide cooling and heat,” says Sara Baldwin, director of electrification policy at Energy Innovation. “It’s a far more efficient and cost-effective option and can facilitate the transition away from fossil fuels more quickly.”
• To bring down costs, the IRA provides a $2,000 tax credit for heat pumps and additional incentives for electrical upgrades. Low-to-moderate income households can also benefit from new rebates, administered through state energy offices.

Psst! While we’re on the subject, take a look inside Family Handyman’s Sustainable Studio.

Ground-Source (Geothermal) Heat Pumps

These systems rely on the relatively constant temperature of the earth as an exchange medium. They’re highly efficient for heating and cooling, offering a 25 to 50 percent cost savings over conventional fossil fuel systems. But they require land to accommodate the pipes, which must be buried.

Ground-source heat pumps range from $3,000 to $30,000, depending on the climate, soil conditions, available land, local installation costs, the size of your home and heating and cooling needs. They’re also durable. Inside components last around 24 years, and the ground loop more than 50.

The IRA provides a 30 percent credit for geothermal heat pump projects, with potentially more incentives available from state energy offices.

Radiant Heating Systems

In-floor radiant heating systems aren’t as efficient as heat pump, and can’t double as a cooling system. But they can still provide energy savings with all the added benefits of ditching fossil fuels, provided you heat your water with electricity and and not gas.

“Radiant floors may make sense for home additions that don’t easily or affordably allow for extending the heating system into the new space, or when redoing your floors,” says Baldwin. “By avoiding forced air circulation and the use of ducts, they can also help eliminate allergens and dust.”

If you’re leaning toward a radiant floor system, know there are different electric heating cables or hydronic (liquid) systems, depending on what type of floor you have. Flooring materials with more thermal mass can help retain heat longer, thus saving energy.

Radiant floor heating costs range from $8 to $20 per square foot. It pairs well with distributed solar and energy storage, also covered under IRA incentives.

Other Eco-Heating Advice

If you’re hiring a contractor, get two or three bids. Make sure they know how to properly size a heat pump based on a manual J load calculation, which accounts for factors like your home’s size, climate zone, quality of insulation and windows.

Investments in air sealing and insulation, programmable thermostats and proper equipment maintenance can also reduce the size of the unit you need and make your home more comfortable.

“There is no such thing as an eco-friendly home that has lots of air holes or doesn’t have insulation,” says Bartholomy. “Weatherization is an imperative part of having an eco-friendly home.” Reduce waste even more by opting for sustainable furniture.

The post 3 Eco-Friendly Heating Systems for Your Home in 2024 appeared first on Family Handyman.

That doesn’t mean they work in every situation. My land mates and I would dearly like to install wind turbines on our off-grid property, but despite being located on a ridge overlooking the ocean, we don’t get enough wind to make them practical. They won’t generate any electricity if the wind doesn’t blow hard enough to make them spin, and even if they do spin, our average wind speed is too low to make them spin fast enough to generate significant amounts of electricity.

At least that was the situation the last time we checked, about 10 years ago. With improvements in technology, there may be new models that would work for us, so we plan to revisit the possibility of installing one or more in the near future. Windmills have been a thing since the Middle Ages, and they are a valuable resource for eco-conscious and pennywise homeowners.

What Are Home Wind Turbines?

Since the mid-20th century, wind farms have become common enough to the point that virtually everyone has seen a giant windmill from their car. Shrink one of those to about a quarter of its size, and you have one type of home wind turbine. Manufacturers have come up with a number of creative designs that fall into one of two categories: horizontal axis and vertical axis.

• Horizontal-axis turbines are the kind you see from the roadway. The turbine is enclosed in a housing mounted on a tall pole, and blades attached to the turbine shaft catch the wind and spin the shaft, which activates a gear system to spin the turbine. Horizontal-axis turbines usually have a rudder, much like the one on a weather vane, that spins the rotor to keep the blades facing the wind.
• Vertical-axis turbines have a shaft that extends vertically from the ground, and the blades can be shaped like the letters “S” or “H,” or they can be semicircular like the spokes on a whisk blender. The more compact design allows for installation on rooftops as well as on the ground.

Because wind is unpredictable, you don’t normally use the energy generated by a wind turbine directly. You either store it in a battery or feed it through the panel to lower your energy costs. Some turbines come with batteries pre-installed while others are designed to tie into the battery pack for an existing PV system.

Benefits and Drawbacks of Home Wind Turbines

Free energy from the wind? Yes, please. It’s the obvious and most important benefit of home wind turbines, and when you compare them to PV panels, which also generate free electricity, they have these advantages:

• A budget turbine that can generate 1,500 watts of electricity occupies 10 or 20 square feet of ground space, so it’s a good solution for small properties. A panel array that generates the same wattage, on the other hand, needs 80 to 150 square feet of real estate, depending on each panel’s power rating.
• As long as the wind is blowing, wind turbines can generate just as much power on cloudy days (and at night) as they can on sunny days.
• Wind turbines convert as much as 50% of the energy they absorb from the wind into electricity. By contrast, solar panels are around 20% efficient.
• The production of wind turbines releases fewer atmospheric pollutants than the production of solar panels.

All the above notwithstanding, wind turbines have serious drawbacks that can make them a less attractive choice than PV panels:

• Wind is unpredictable, and even though turbines work when the sun isn’t out, they don’t work when the wind isn’t blowing.
• Unlike PV panels, which are pretty much maintenance-free, wind turbines require regular maintenance, and they have moving parts that can be noisy and can break if the wind blows too hard.
• Wind turbines have to be placed where the wind is blowing, which sometimes necessitates high towers or prominent roof placements. Because of the visual impact and the noise factor, they aren’t suitable for densely populated neighborhoods, and some communities might be reluctant to issue permits for them.
• The blades of horizontal-axis turbines create a hazard for wildlife, especially birds and bats.

Are Home Wind Turbines Worth the Investment?

If your residential situation is suitable for a wind turbine, it can be a great investment. A small wind turbine can be surprisingly affordable as long as you don’t have to mount it on a tall tower to catch the wind and rack up astronomical installation costs in the process. Vertical-axis turbines that can pump 1.5 kW of power into your solar battery bank or feed it to the grid cost less than $500.

A wind turbine is a bad investment if you don’t get enough wind to make it spin, but some models have very low cut-in speeds (the minimum wind speed needed to make them spin) of less than five mph, and they achieve optimal energy production at speeds around 30 mph. This is an improvement from 10 years ago, and it’s the reason why we’re rethinking our decision to put one on our property.

Home Wind Turbine Installation: Can You DIY?

Some turbine manufacturers advertise DIY installation, but Energy.gov advises against doing the job yourself. Choosing site placement and physically mounting the turbine are only half the job the unit has to be hooked up to your electrical system. A pro has the knowledge to do the job according to code and will also handle the permits.

The post What to Know About Home Wind Turbines appeared first on Family Handyman.

Best Overall Garage Door Insulation Kit

Reach Barrier Reflective Air Garage Door Insulation Kit

The best garage door insulation kit for your home is the one that fits your needs regardless of what might be best for your neighbors. However, one kit that meets many homeowners’ needs is the Reach Barrier garage door insulation kit. It’s a budget-friendly reflective insulation solution consisting of eight 24-inch-by-48-inch panels of trimmable, 20% recycled material. The kit includes self-adhesive fasteners for simple installation, and the materials won’t require protective clothing to install.

While the product doesn’t state its insulating ability or R-value (rating of a materials ability to resist heat transfer), its high average consumer ratings attest to the fact that it’s effective against heat and cold transfer. The product works best for single garage doors of 8 feet wide or less, or double garage doors 16 or fewer feet wide with the purchase of two kits.

Pros

• Deflects heat in summer and retains heat in winter
• Long-lasting adhesive
• Easy installation (no special tools necessary and panels are pre-cut)
• Budget-friendly price
• Made from 20% recycled material

Cons

• R-value not stated

$50.49 at Amazon

The post The 6 Best Garage Door Insulation Kits for Temperature Control appeared first on Family Handyman.

Why You Shouldn’t Crank Down Your Thermostat

There are a few main reasons why you should never crank down your thermostat to cool your home. The first, according to Jennifer Amann, senior fellow in the buildings program at the nonprofit, American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy is that, “It’s not going to really cool your home any faster.” Shichao Liu, an architectural engineering professor at Worcester Polytechnic Institute in Massachusetts, underscores this point, explaining: “People think, ‘If I make the thermostat set point 60, I’ll get more cooling than a set point at 70,’ but that’s not correct. You get the same amount of the cooling.”

Additionally, every air conditioning system has a certain cooling capacity. If you set your thermostat to a temperature that exceeds that capacity, your system will just keep running trying to meet it. This puts unnecessary strain on your air conditioning system, which will shorten its lifespan.

Lastly, the continuous running of the air conditioner guzzles energy. This hurts the planet and can lead your cooling efforts to backfire. When everyone runs their air conditioners continuously, the power grid can fail, and then you may not be able to use your air conditioner at all.

How to Properly Set a Thermostat

When setting a thermostat, gradual changes make a huge difference. Start by checking your thermostat’s cooling capacity by calling the manufacturer or your landlord. If you can find this number, never drop the temperature lower than it. If you can’t locate the capacity, try to stick to temperatures between 71 and 77 degrees. One 2014 study by the University of Georgia, Athens, found that most people report feeling comfortable at these temperatures.

If you can manage it, try to stick to the upper margin of that range. Co-author of the study and professor of practice emeritus Thomas Lawrence said, “If a person was in their house and they’re going to be there all the time, they could maybe turn up to 76 or 77 or so.” He then added, “People should realize that if it’s really hot outside, having [the thermostat] at 77, 78, or even more, on the inside for a little while still feels good.”

Setting your thermostat slightly higher than you would think to can make a huge difference in supporting our power grids, Amann notes. She encourages those who are away from home to set their thermostat 5 or 10 degrees higher than they would if they were home. One degree of a thermostat increase can save approximately 1% of energy. As such, Amann says, “If everyone who is away from home has set their thermostat so that they’re saving at least 5% of their cooling, then across all of the houses that can really make a difference in addressing that peak load.”

Lastly, be aware of peak energy consumption hours. When it’s hottest outside during the afternoon, most people are cranking their air conditioners. As such, this is when the power grid is most strained, so increasing your thermostat by even 1 degree can make an impact.

More Energy Efficiency Tips

First, to get the best cooling out of your air conditioner and save energy, make sure you perform the proper maintenance on your unit. Additionally, if you are having problems with your air conditioner, be sure to check these simple fixes. If none of those work,there are numerous repairs you can perform yourself.

Finally, there are plenty of ways to keep your home cool without air conditioning. So before you turn to the thermostat, try these 12 alternative ways to cool your home. They’ll have you feeling comfortable in no time!

The post There’s a Right Way to Set Your Air Conditioner—Here’s How appeared first on Family Handyman.

via merchant (2)

Shop the Washer Now

Shop the Dryer Now

We love this energy-efficient washer and dryer combo from Beko, not only for its supreme efficiency, but for its forward-thinking innovation. Beko’s smart washer spins at 1,400 revolutions per minute (RPM), which gets extra moisture out of clothes and enables its heat pump dryer to deliver a shorter drying time. It also uses a steam cycle at the beginning of the wash to preheat and loosen stains, which gets laundry cleaner while being gentler on your clothes.

Although Beko has been recognized as “Energy Star Most Efficient” for past several years, in an industry first, the brand also started making their washtubs partly from recycled water bottles, which has taken more than 171 million plastic bottles out of the waste stream since 2017.

As for Beko’s ventless dryer, it ingeniously uses the condensation it absorbs to fill its reservoir for steam drying modes, which delivers less wrinkled clothes. The new model is also 60% more efficient than its predecessor.

Features

• Washer spins at 1,400 RPM
• Heat pump ventless dryer
• 2.5-cubic-foot washer drum and 4.5-cubic-foot dryer drum
• Wi-Fi enabled and compatible with the HomeWhiz smart home app
• Automatic fabric and load-size sensors
• Steam cycle
• Stackable

The post The 5 Most Energy-Efficient Washer and Dryer Sets for a More Sustainable Home appeared first on Family Handyman.

To be healthy, your house needs to breathe as much as you do. You need oxygen-rich outside air moving through the house and stale indoor air moving out.

Keeping one or more windows open is one solution, but it isn’t practical in winter unless you’re like me and love sleeping in freezing temperatures. Even so, an open window only benefits that room.

Here’s a better idea: Installing an energy recovery ventilator (ERV). It’s an HVAC component that works on its own or in conjunction with your forced-air central heating and cooling system. It provides the entire house with fresh outdoor air while exhausting stale air. In most cases, it’s a good investment for anyone in a well insulated home.

What Is an Energy Recovery Ventilator?

If you live in a recently built home, you may already have an energy recovery ventilator and not know it. Some codes, like the 2020 New York City Energy Code, require ERVs or heat recovery ventilators (HRVs) in new buildings.

Go into the basement or furnace room and look for a rectangular metal box measuring about two-and-a-half feet by two feet. If it’s there, you’ll find two ports on either side for ducts that run throughout the building as well as to the outside.

If you open the cover, you’ll probably see a pair of fans and a central core made of engineered cellulose or composite resin. This is a fixed plate or stationary core ERV, and it’s the most common residential type.

Here’s how it works:

Fans simultaneously suck air from indoors and outdoors through intake ports and direct it through the core, engineered to allow the two air streams to exchange heat and moisture. After passing through the core, exhaust ports carry indoor air outdoors and outdoor air into the house.

The air coming into the house after passing though an ERV is conditioned. It’s warmer than outdoor air during the winter and cooler during the summer. The conditioned air retains some moisture, but it’s drier than the outdoor air.

Types of Energy Recovery Ventilators

When you open the cover of the ERV in your new house, you may not find a stationary core. That’s just one type. There are three others that differ by the type of heat exchanger they employ.

• Rotational (wheel): A plastic wheel spins between the indoor and outdoor air intake ports, transferring heat and moisture between them. This type of heat exchanger is common in larger ERVs found in hospitals and schools.
• Heat-pipe: Refrigerant-filled copper tubes transfer heat from outgoing air to the incoming fresh air stream. The warmer air stream vaporizes the refrigerant while the cooler stream condenses it, releasing heat into the cooler stream. This isn’t a common residential system.
• Runaround coils: Coils filled with a water-glycol mixture absorb heat from the warmer air stream and transfer it to the cooler stream. This technology works best for large systems where the incoming and outgoing air streams are widely separated.
• Fixed plate or stationary core: Most residential ERV’s are this type. Both incoming air streams pass through a stationary core engineered with special materials to allow the exchange of air and moisture between them.

Not all these heat exchange technologies allow for moisture exchange, so sometimes the ERV features a desiccant to absorb moisture from the air.

ERV vs. HRV

Like an ERV, a heat recovery ventilator (HRV) exchanges heat between the incoming air streams, but it doesn’t exchange moisture. Instead of a moisture-absorbing core, it comes with a metal one. Excess moisture condenses on the metal and drips into a tray.

An HRV transfers heat more efficiently than an ERV, and works better in Northern climates where the air is colder and drier.

ERV Benefits and Drawbacks

An ERV is a useful HVAC component for several reasons, but there are also reasons why you might not want one.

Benefits

• Fresh air everywhere: An ERV supplies fresh air to every room, not just those with an open window. An added benefit: The security of keeping windows closed and locked.
• Humidity control:While it’s no substitute for a dehumidifier, an ERV reduces the moisture in the air it blows into the house, especially beneficial in a humid climate.
• Balanced air pressure:By exhausting as much air as it blows, an ERV keeps the air pressure in the house balanced. That makes the environment more comfortable and reduces the likelihood of leaks developing in the building envelope.

Drawbacks

• Uses electricity: An ERV uses about 40 watts of electricity per hour. That isn’t much, but adds up if you run it 24/7. At the national average rate of $0.23 per kWh, that would cost almost $100 per year.
• Noise: Most ERV’s run quietly, but they do contain fans, so they aren’t silent.
• Expensive to install: ERV’s can be tied into the existing HVAC ductwork, but they work best when they have their own. Installing new ducts and vents is a major project.

Cost To Install an ERV

The average cost to purchase an ERV runs between $1,000 and $1,900. To install one, you also need to purchase ductwork and other materials. These cost between $800 and $1,900 depending on the size and configuration of your house.

If you do the installation yourself, that’s all you’ll have to pay. If you opt for professional installation, you’ll pay an extra $3 to $10 per linear foot of ductwork.

The post Energy Recovery Ventilators: Should You Invest in One? appeared first on Family Handyman.

How frequently should you run a dishwasher? Does it need to be fully loaded before a run? And how do you clean it, anyway?

Rest assured, this article will walk you through everything you need to know to get the most out of your dishwasher, from preparing your dishes for washing to unusual items you can throw in your next load.

How to Get the Most Out of Your Dishwasher

Follow these tips to lower your water bill and lessen the environmental impact of your dishwashing.

Run it only when full (but not too full)

When you start running low on plates, it’s natural to run the dishwasher, even if it’s not fully loaded yet. Dishwashing technology has become so efficient and environmentally friendly that some companies actually recommend running it “whenever you want.”

This, however, is not the full story.

Yes, these modern dishwashers are way more effective than their forebears, and way better than hand-washing dishes. And yes, overcrowding your dishes will reduce the washer’s ability to clean them properly, thereby wasting water and money.

However, running the entire dishwasher for only a few items is still more wasteful than running a properly full load. Try to find a happy medium so it’s pretty full, but water and detergent can still easily reach every item.

Pro Tip: Check here how to install a dishwasher and avoid the most common mistakes while you put them.

Don’t pre-rinse your dishes

Yes, you heard me!

While many users still rinse their dishes we’ve even recommended a light rinse ourselves the latest data suggests we should stop.

Modern dishwashers come with food filters, and most detergents contain enzymes that break down food particles. This means, according to former Wirecutter supervising editor Winnie Yang, all you need to do before loading is “scrape as much as you can into the garbage or compost.” After all, running all that sink water to get every speck of food off your dishes will increase your water bill.

Appliance company Duerden’s also encourages the no-rinse approach, recommending Finish dishwasher detergent for the best enzymatic cleaning power.

Load it properly

Contrary to popular belief, there is a right way to load a dishwasher. Make sure cups, glasses, mugs and small bowls are all on the top rack, and plates and larger bowls on the bottom. Everything loaded onto the bottom rack should face inward to ensure that the detergent and water can reach it properly.

Before your next load, check out our in-depth breakdown of dishwasher loading mistakes.

Clean it regularly

Cleaning your dishwasher will help you avoid odors, drainage issues and, of course, dirty dishes. To do so, you can use vinegar and/or dishwasher soap. Don’t forget to pay special attention to your armports, door lip and filter. And always consult your dishwasher’s manual before you clean.

If you run about one load per day, your dishwasher needs to be cleaned “every 30 days,” according to Bree Lemmen, Whirlpool kitchen brand manager, speaking to Today.com.

Adjust the PSI

If you really want to make sure your dishwasher runs as effectively as possible, check the pounds per square inch (psi) of water pressure. According to filtration and appliance company Danamark, most commercial dishwashers only need 20 psi to clean dishes properly.

“If pressure is in excess of 25 psi, then the machine may be using more water than necessary,” the company says.

To check your water pressure correctly, look at the pressure gauge on the inlet water line. If you don’t have one, a professional can install one for you.

Wash more than just dishes

Finally, it’s OK to use your dishwasher to clean other household items. Add in terracotta pots, combs, vent grills, sponges and baby toys. Be sure to check out our full list of gadgets that can be put in the dishwasher.

The post Are You Getting the Most Out of Your Dishwasher? appeared first on Family Handyman.

But that’s about to change.

“Though solid-state lithium batteries were developed more than 30 years ago, their commercial use is just taking off thanks to new materials that are making them commercially viable,” says Vince Caito, vice president of product development at Yoshino Power. “Solid-state is especially making headlines as auto manufacturers develop them for the next generation of EVs.”

What Is a Solid-State Lithium Battery?

Simply stated, a solid-state lithium battery uses a solid electrolyte instead of a liquid one.

“All batteries have three main components: anode, cathode and an electrolyte,” says Gabriel Adams, a student at Arizona State University researching the new technology at the Rolston Lab.

“In the widely popular non-solid-state lithium batteries found in everything from consumer electronics to airplanes, the electrolyte is a liquid that facilitates lithium-ion transfer between the anode and cathode. In a solid-state lithium battery, the electrolyte is a solid material instead.”

There are several kinds of solid-state lithium battery technologies. Some rely on polymers to conduct the lithium ions, while others use sulfides or oxides (ceramics).

Advantages of Solid-State Lithium Batteries

Improved safety is one major advantage, because the electrolytes can’t leak out.

“Liquid electrolytes are flammable, and that’s why you see battery fires in the news,” says Eric D. Wachsman, Ph.D., director of the Maryland Energy Innovation Institute.

“We can engineer around it, and have been doing that for a long time, but there are certain fundamental tradeoffs between safety and performance with liquid electrolytes and the ceramic solid electrolytes avoid that tradeoff because the solid is non-flammable.”

Another advantage: The higher energy density, resulting in a more compact and lighter battery. With EVs, this has been touted as the “Holy Grail,” because it allows cars to go farther on a charge and recharge more quickly.

For the techies out there, here’s why, according to Adams: “Solids are more dense than liquids, and solid-state batteries eliminate the need for a separator between the anode and cathode. They also have better thermal stability because solids are more tightly bound together at the atomic level, so solid-state batteries can better withstand higher temperatures.”

Disadvantages of Solid-State Lithium Batteries

The biggest disadvantage is cost, due to their advanced materials, technology and manufacturing complexities. But as these batteries become more common, costs are likely to come down.

Where Are Solid-State Batteries Being Used?

Currently they’re not widely available to consumers, but that’s starting to change. Yoshino Power just released some of the first solid-state lithium products: portable power stations in various sizes for home backup, running power tools and camping. Over the next few years, the technology is expected to start storming the EV market.

“Solid-state batteries are the way of the future,” says Adams. “New electric vehicle manufacturers are investing heavily in their development, and companies like Toyota have claimed their new electric vehicles will use solid-state battery technology as soon as 2027.”

Nearly every other auto manufacturer has also made a commitment toward the technology.

“The focus from the Department of Energy in terms of funding has been in electric vehicles because of the impact on addressing climate concerns,” says Wachsman. “But it will make it into consumer electronics. It will make it into grid storage. There’s a limitless number of applications for these batteries.”

But if you’re considering an EV and you’re on a budget, don’t wait for the technology to come out. “Just go get it now,” says Wachsman. “The initial ones are going to be more expensive, and it’s going to be a while before the scale of manufacturing is large enough that the price per unit drops.”

The post What Is a Solid-State Lithium Battery? appeared first on Family Handyman.

In this article, well walk you through a professional energy audit and show you how it works. We teamed up with Erik Lindberg, a Minnesota state-certified energy auditor whose company, Enervision, has performed more than 12,000 audits.

What Is a Home Energy Audit?

During a home energy audit, an auditor will come to your home and conduct a series of tests to provide detailed information about your homes energy usage and energy loss. It takes about two to three hours. The report will detail:

• The condition and efficiency of your heating and cooling system;
• The overall efficiency of your home, including the primary areas of air leakage in your walls and ceilings;
• Low-cost ways you can improve energy efficiency and save energy;
• Larger upgrades that will pay back their cost with energy savings within a relatively short period.

How Much Does a Home Energy Audit Cost?

Typically between $200 and $600. The actual cost may be higher or lower depending on the property size, complexity of the audit and the company doing it.

To find out the exact cost, contact your utility provider. Ask about tax credits or rebates. The Inflation Reduction Act (IRA) offers a tax credit of up to $150 for home energy audits. Scheduling an audit through your utility will likely be cheaper and easier than seeking one out on your own.

Can You Do Your Own Home Energy Audit?

Yes. While a professional energy audit is the best way to determine your home’s overall efficiency, an experienced DIYer who can locate drafts and replace light bulbs can identify and fix some straightforward problems.

Simple things you can do include improving attic insulation levels, closing gaps around electrical outlets on exterior walls, caulking windows and replacing light bulbs and fixtures with energy efficient alternatives. An energy audit will most likely include all these if your current home lacks them, greatly impacting your energy usage and the efficiency of your home.

What a Home Energy Audit Checks

Heating and hot water systems

The audit starts with a furnace combustion efficiency test.

With the furnace running, Lindberg inserts a gas analyzer into its draft diverter. If theres no draft diverter, he drills a small hole in the flue for the wand, then patches it later. The analyzer provides an immediate reading.

Our furnace had a 76.9 percent combustion efficiency not bad considering furnaces at least 15 years old are usually 55 to 68 percent efficient, and this unit is 27 years old. (Typical lifespan is 15 to 20 years.)

This test also measures:

• The amount of carbon monoxide in the flue gases;
• Draft pressure in the flue to determine if gases could leak into the house.

These are safety issues. If waste gases arent going up the chimney, moisture, carbon monoxide and other pollutants could be flowing into your home (i.e. back-drafting). Common causes of vent problems are birds nests in the vent pipes, or vents that have come apart.

If you have moisture on your windows,” Lindberg says, “the first thing to check for is back-drafting in the furnace and water heater flues.

Lindberg tests for back-drafting in the water heater vent flue as well, by holding a flame or a smoke stick next to the draft diverter.

The check of the heating and hot water systems concludes with a visual inspection. Rust particles (called scaling) inside the furnace heat exchanger indicate corrosion, eventually leading to holes and combustion gas leakage. Scaling may also be visible on top of the water heater around the draft diverter.

Lindberg looks to see if the furnace filter is clean and installed correctly. Clogged filters can cause a moderate increase in heating costs,” he says. “But more significantly, [it can] cause the heat exchanger to overheat and fail, and cause the fan motor to heat up, increase electric consumption and reduce the life of the motor.

He also looks for combustibles stored near the furnace or water heater, because the flame could cause an explosion.

Other common problems Lindberg finds include disconnected flue pipes, leaky ductwork, clogged condensation pipes, dirty burners, and dirty fan blades.

Ive found many furnaces missing the cover for the filter slot, and major leaks in the return-air ductwork,” he says. “This causes depressurization in the furnace room and can draw dangerous exhaust gases out of the flue pipe and distribute these gases throughout the house.”

Air leakage

Part Two of the audit entails a blower door test, which measures the homes tightness, or air infiltration rate.

Lindberg first closes all doors and windows, then sets an adjustable panel with a variable-speed fan in a doorway, completely sealing it. He turns on the fan to blow air out of the house, which reduces the indoor air pressure, then measures airflow through the fan at predetermined pressure points. Outside air then enters through cracks and gaps in walls and ceilings.

With the fan running, you can feel air come in with your hand, especially around leaky windows and doors. Gauges connected to the fan measure the airflow rate needed to maintain a constant pressure. This allows the auditor to calculate the leakage rate.

Newer homes are built tighter under the most recent Minnesota building code. (Most other state codes have tighter rules too.) It even requires special ventilation fans to ensure adequate fresh air. Still, their leakage rate is often equivalent to a 6- by 6-in. hole in a wall.

Older homes werent built nearly as tightly. They often have a leakage rate equivalent to a 19- by 19-in. hole, which is like having a window wide open all the time! The house we tested had leaks totaling .77 square feet (about an 11- by 11-in. hole). Lindberg estimates that sealing air leaks alone will save 10 to 20 percent on this homes annual heating bills.

Lindberg pointed out several signs of air leaks: stains around bath fans and dirt on insulation. A batt of insulation between joists in the basement was dirty, meaning the insulation served as a filter for air leaking in through the foundation.

You cant fix these leaks with insulation because it wont stop the airflow, he says. You have to seal them with caulk, expanding foam, or some other sealant.

In Lindberg’s opinion, theres no limit to how tight you can make the ceiling.

“The less air that goes out the ceiling, the less that will come in around doors, windows, and other leaky areas,” he says. “When youre carrying water in a bucket, it doesnt matter if the top leaks because no water is going to get out. What matters is the bottom. Think of your house like an upside down bucket holding heat.

Sources of energy loss

While the blower door test measures the overall leakiness of the house, infrared scanning (technically called thermography) graphically identifies the precise locations of those leaks. Lindberg keeps the blower door fan running to draw in outside air. Then, using an infrared camera, he scans the walls and ceilings, photographing surface areas that show up as cooler.

Cold areas show up as blue, and warm areas as yellow. On a chilly day in March, the framing members showed up as blue, since they were cooler than the insulated portion of the walls. The opposite would be true on a hot day with an air-conditioner running indoors.

Air leaks in the ceiling typically cause the greatest energy losses. Openings made for light fixtures, plumbing vents, exhaust fans, attic access and smoke alarms will leak if the builder doesnt efficiently seal them.

In this house, the area around the attic access panel and the exhaust fan in the upstairs bathroom showed extensive leaking. A ceiling light fixture, which must have been sealed better, leaked very little.

Electrical outlets and light switches on outside walls also usually leak, unless the builder took extra pains to seal them. The infrared scan showed four in the north kitchen wall leaked profusely. The homeowner confirmed this, noting that she often felt cold drafts when standing by this wall.

While some of these problems are easy to fix insulating attic doors, spray foam or caulk around the exhaust fans, and foam seals under the outlet and switch cover plates others are difficult to seal and may not be practical to fix. Leaks around exterior wall top plates and inadequate insulation in some wall cavities are common but hard to access, therefore expensive to remedy.

Expect some air leakage around windows, sliding patio doors and exterior doors. All doors will leak,” Lindberg says. “Especially since people step on the threshold as they enter and leave the house, wearing a gap between the door and sill. The only doors that dont leak are the ones on submarines.

Final Report What You Can Save

Once the testing is complete, the auditor prepares a comprehensive report detailing the amount of leakage, ways to improve efficiency, the cost of specific improvements, and the time frame for recouping those investments. The report lists specific low-cost steps for reducing energy consumption you can usually do yourself.

For this house, they included insulating the attic access panel, weatherstripping it with closed-cell foam tape, sealing ceiling penetrations at electrical fixtures, insulating kitchen soffits, adding attic insulation, insulating the rim joists, and caulking around windows, doors and base trim.

Lindberg estimated these upgrades will cut annual energy bills by 15 to 20 percent. Adding insulation to exterior walls isnt worth the cost.

The furnace, installed when the house was built, had an annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE) of about 68 percent. That’s well below the current minimum standard specified by the building code and far below the efficiencies currently available. (Energy Star furnaces must be at least 90 percent AFUE.)

Lindberg recommends upgrading any furnace in Minnesotas cold climate thats not at least 80 percent efficient, since newer models use less energy and eventually pay for themselves (in nine years in this case). Your energy auditor will make these calculations and recommendations based on your local climate. Furnaces that are at least 95 percent efficient may qualify for a federal tax credit.

Installing a programmable thermostat in this home will pay for itself in just two to three years. A new high-efficiency air conditioner isnt a priority, but its likely to be in warmer climates. You want to recoup your investment through predicted energy savings within seven to 10 years.

The post How a Home Energy Audit Can Save You Money appeared first on Family Handyman.

If you’re curious about installing solar panels, here’s everything you need to know about the solar panel tax credit, including how to check your eligibility and take advantage of it.

What Is the Solar Panel Tax Credit?

A program where the federal government reimburses homeowners for installing solar panels. Up to 30% of the costs of materials, installation, permits and fees will be covered for solar panels installed by the end of 2032. For panels installed in 2033, the credit falls to 26%, then to 22% in 2034.

Am I Eligible for the Solar Panel Tax Credit?

According to Sky Power Solar, “[a]nyone who buys and installs a PV [photovoltaic] system and pays federal taxes is eligible for this solar incentive.”

However, you “must be the PV system owner” to qualify. This means you must purchase the solar system yourself, with your own funds or a loan. The purchased system could be on your main property, but those installed on vacation homes, rental properties and stationary RVs also qualify for the tax credit.

How Does the Solar Panel Tax Credit Work?

According to the New York Times, the solar panel tax credit “reduces your bill dollar for dollar.” That means if you owe money when you file your taxes, the credit lowers this amount directly. But if you don’t owe federal tax, “you won’t get any of the credit as a refund,” per the Times. So you can’t make money off the tax credit.

April Walker, lead manager of tax practice and ethics at the American Institute of Certified Public Accountants, told the Times unused credit can be carried over to future tax years, allowing you to reach the full 30% reimbursement amount.

How Much Money Will I Save Switching to Solar Energy?

That varies greatly depending on your individual situation. Some factors that affect your bill include:

• How much electricity you use;
• How many solar panels you install;
• How your home is oriented (toward or away from the sun);
• How much shade your home receives.

Obviously, super-shady homes will not benefit as much as sunnier spots. Similarly, huge solar installations will naturally cost you more than smaller ones, though there’s no dollar amount cap on the tax credit.

Finally, you may be eligible for more tax incentives from your state government, or installation rebates from your utility company.

To get a better sense of how much money you might save switching to solar energy, try using the solar installation company SunPower’s online calculator. However, for a full analysis of solar panel discounts available to you specifically, it’s best to speak to a tax professional.

How Do I Claim the Solar Panel Tax Credit?

According to TurboTax, to claim the solar panel tax credit, you will need to file IRS Form 5695 as part of the relevant year’s tax return. Part I of the form will help you calculate your tax credit, and that numeric result can then be entered on your 1040.

If you forgot to claim the credit for the year you purchased the panels, you can still file an amended return to claim it.

The post How Does the Solar Panel Tax Credit Work? appeared first on Family Handyman.

My windows are covered with low-E film. It’s a simple solution that makes my home more energy efficient and helps regulate internal temperature all year round.

What Is Low-E Film?

Low-E, or low-emissivity, film is a thin coating applied to window surfaces to reduce heat transfer. It is asustainability technique that modern day sustainable builders incorporate in their work for a sustainable environment.

The film features microscopic layers of metal or metallic oxide, reflecting heat while still allowing light to pass through. The result? A more comfortable, energy-efficient home environment, with all the natural light you love.

Low-E film pros

• Energy efficiency: By reflecting heat back to its source, low-E film can drastically reduce your energy costs. It keeps your home cooler in the summer by reflecting sunlight and heat outside, and warmer in the winter by reflecting heat back inside.
• Comfort: It helps maintain a consistent, comfortable temperature throughout your home, minimizing hot and cold spots. I have several large windows in my kitchen. In the summer, the room was unbearably hot unless I closed all the drapes and put the air conditioning on full blast. And the same room was bitterly cold in the winter. But with the low-E film in place, the kitchen feels much cozier year-round, apart from on the very hottest and coldest days.
• UV protection: Low-E film blocks up to 99% of the sun’s harmful UV rays, protecting your skin and preventing furnishings and flooring from fading.
• Versatility: It can be applied to existing windows, offering a less expensive and disruptive option than full window replacement.

Low-E film cons

• Cost: While less expensive than full window replacements, the initial cost might still be higher than other window treatment options.
• Aesthetics: Some people may not like the slightly shiny appearance of low-E film, which can change the look of your windows.
• Professional installation: In the U.S., it’s hard to find direct-to-consumer low-E film to self-install. Pro installation adds to the cost.

Low-E Film vs. Window Insulation

Low-E film and window insulation aim to improve energy efficiency. But they function in different ways, and each has its own advantages.

Window insulation works by creating an airtight seal, reducing drafts and preventing cold air from entering or warm air from escaping. Installing window insulation works best for homes with older, drafty windows, and it’s pretty easy and cost-effective to do yourself about $2 to $3 per window.

Low-E film, on the other hand, focuses on controlling radiant heat transfer. It’s particularly effective in homes in hot climates or with large, sun-facing windows.

While it doesn’t prevent drafts like window insulation does, it’s less intrusive and can offer significant energy savings. However, because film isn’t typically available to DIY in the U.S., it costs between $4 and $19 per square foot for materials and labor.

Your choice will depend on your home’s specific needs.

Low-E Window Film Installation

While there are many types of DIY window film available to consumers in the U.S., we couldn’t confirm a source for low-E window film sold to consumers for DIY installation. If you buy window film to install yourself, be sure you understand its intended purpose.

I live in the United Kingdom, where DIY low-E film is readily available. I found self-installation a manageable project, although it requires precision to fit correctly, without creases or bubbles. Remember, too, that it goes on the inside of your windows.

Here’s a general how-to:

1. Measure your window: Accurate measurements are key to getting the right fit.
2. Clean your window: Any dirt or dust can interfere with the film’s adhesion.
3. Cut the film: Roll out your film and cut it slightly larger than your window.
4. Apply the film: Spray the window with a wetting solution, remove the backing and apply the film to the glass.
5. Smooth out bubbles: Use a squeegee to remove any bubbles, working from the center outward.
6. Trim excess film: With a sharp knife, carefully trim the edges for a perfect fit.
7. Wait: Check the manufacturer’s directions to see how long you need to wait for the film to fully adhere before you start using the window again.

Low-E Window Film Maintenance

Maintaining your low-E film is straightforward. Cleaning can be done with standard glass cleaning products and a soft cloth or squeegee.

Avoid any abrasive materials that could scratch the film. I use a simple 50/50 white vinegar and water spray and a microfiber cloth.

Maximizing the Energy Efficiency of Your Windows

There’s not much point in installing low-E film if you’ve got drafty frames and other heat transfer problems. Since you’re already giving your windows a thorough cleaning to install the film, you may as well take advantage and do some other window winterizing tasks.

Start with checking the seals around the frame, inside and out. If the caulk is old, degraded or damaged in any way, it’s a really good idea to remove the old stuff and re-caulk your windows, inside and out.

Next, check the exterior of your windows and, if you don’t have it already, add weather stripping. If you do and it’s damaged, replace it. And consider installing storm windows to add an extra layer of protection during the winter months.

The post How Low-E Film Can Benefit Your Home and Wallet appeared first on Family Handyman.

But how do you know which curtains to buy, and are they even suitable for your needs and space? Consider this your introductory guide to soundproof curtains what they are, how they work, and what to consider before buying a set. At the end, you’ll also find five reliable brands to suit a variety of needs.

What Are Soundproof Curtains?

As the name suggests, soundproof curtains aka acoustic curtains reduce noise. Made of heavy materials like polyester or microfiber, soundproof curtains absorb quieter noises and muffle louder ones from outside, promoting better sleep and relaxation in the home.

Additionally, many soundproof curtains offer blackout and thermal insulation, keeping out excess sunlight and reducing your energy bill. Be aware that soundproof curtains aren’t the same as acoustic wall installations or other hardcore soundproofing in the home.

How Do Soundproof Curtains Work?

According to enoisecontrol.com, soundproof curtains reduce the noise entering a space and reflected inside it. Higher quality materials yield better soundproofing.

Materials can vary based on needs. Soundproof curtains for the home don’t need to be as heavy-duty as those in industrial factories. Depending on the materials, soundproof curtains can reduce the transmission of sound by up to 29 decibels.

Are Soundproof Curtains Right for You?

You don’t need to be a professional musician to benefit from soundproof curtains. Still, ask yourself a few questions before you invest in any type of curtain.

Are you willing to block light from your space to reduce the sound? Since many soundproof curtains aren’t machine washable, are you OK with cleaning them by hand?

Finally, soundproof curtains are often quite heavy, so consider the strength of your curtain rods before purchasing. You may need to invest in new rods as well, so be sure to factor that into your budget.

Which Soundproof Curtains Are Worth the Money?

Once you decide to purchase soundproof curtains, weigh the different models against your personal needs. Here are five of our favorite soundproof curtains for the home, in a range of capacities and prices.

Nicetown Custom 2 Layers 100% Blackout Curtain

Material:Polyester.

Price:$35.96 for a set of two.

Why we love them: Made of two hearty fabric layers, these come in a wide range of sizes and more than 30 colors. Their triple-weave fabric blocks noise and UV light, even in lighter tones. They’re also easy to hang. Unfortunately, they do need to be hand-washed.

$41.95 at Amazon

BGMent Insulated Blackout Soundproof Curtains

Material:Polyester.

Price:$13.12 for a set of two.

Why we love them: These curtains also come in more 30 colors and 11 sizes. Their triple-weave but slightly thin fabric is perfect for buyers who want to block noise while still letting some light in. They’re also thermal insulated and come with metal grommets, making them easy to hang. Machine wash and dry. Plus, you can’t beat that price!

$15.93 at Amazon

RYB Home Three Layers 100% Blackout Soundproof Curtains

Material:Triple-weave fabric with detachable felt liner.

Price:$89.95 for a set of two.

Why we love them: While pricier than other sets, the curtains feature a three-layer design with a detachable felt liner. The liner blocks noise really well and can be removed when soundproofing isn’t necessary.

The curtains also add thermal insulation and next-level light-blocking to create a soundproof, lightproof, cozy haven. They come in more than 15 colors and are customizable when ordered from the website. They can be machine-washed so long as you remove the felt liner first.

$89.95 at Amazon

Moondream Three-in-One Blackout Thermal Soundproof Curtain

Material:Polyester and cotton.

Price:$109 for one panel.

Why we love them: These curtains also feature a triple-layer design. One layer blocks light, another provides thermal insulation, and the final one offers a beautiful cotton overlay. Together, these layers block up to seven decibels of noise and reduce heating costs by up to 37%.

This is an excellent, albeit much more expensive, option for people with standard windows, as the curtains are only available in four sizes. They come in 14 colors and must be dry-cleaned.

$109 at Amazon

Miuco Room-Darkening Blackout Soundproof Curtains

Material:Polyester and polyester-blend fabric.

Price:$34.99 for a set of two.

Why we love them: These two-layer curtains block noise and light wonderfully. Their triple-weave construction deadens sound while blocking 98% of sunlight and 100% of UV rays. They only come in three sizes, but their 18 color options are trendy and sophisticated. Better yet, these curtains can be machine washed and dried.

$34.99 at Amazon

The post Should You Get Soundproof Curtains? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Stop Fireplace Heat Loss

Wood-burning fireplaces can warm up a room, but more often, they rob a house of heat by letting it escape up the chimney. If you have a modern fireplace with a cold air intake from outside, make sure you equip it with an airtight door. If you have an older fireplace that uses room air for combustion, equip it with a door that has operable vents. And only keep those vents open when you have a fire in the fireplace. Otherwise, heat will constantly be sucked out of the house.

Airtight doors have gaskets that seal the doors to stop air leaks. Prices are more expensive than regular doors, but theyll pay for themselves in energy savings. Also consider other fireplace draft stoppers such as chimney-top dampers, which stops heat loss.

The post 9 Home Energy Conservation Tips for the Winter appeared first on Family Handyman.

Fossil fuels, including coal, oil and natural gas, are the most important examples of non-renewable resources. Humans burn them to utilize the energy locked within them. All that combustion creates emissions that pollute the air and warm the planet. Plus, the fuels themselves are finite. When they’re gone, they’re gone.

The sun is a much more reliable energy source, continuously pumping out all the energy needed to make life possible on Earth and meet human needs. The Earth is another source of renewable energy, thanks to natural processes that occur underground, in the atmosphere and under the sea.

At present, 20% of electricity in the United States comes from renewable sources. That number promises to increase with improving technologies. Let’s review some promising sources of renewable energy.

Photovoltaic Energy

Sunlight is loaded with high-energy ultraviolet radiation that can generate an electrical voltage in certain combinations of semiconducting elements.

Most people think of photovoltaic (PV) panels when they think of solar energy. Large flat panel arrays (aka solar farms) can supply electricity to entire communities, while smaller arrays can power individual households or even personal electronic devices.

Present-day solar panels are only 25% efficient at best, and manufacturing them consumes non-renewable fossil fuels. So by themselves, PV panels aren’t the final answer to today’s energy needs. They currently supply less than five percent of electricity consumed globally, though that’s expected to increase and possibly overtake coal as soon as 2026. Things are moving fast.

Solar Thermal Energy

Everyone knows the sun generates heat. Some of the ways people can put this to good use include:

• Solar cooking;
• Passive solar heating for homes;
• Solar water heating;
• Desalination of ocean water.

The technology also exists to generate electricity from the heat of the sun. Most solar thermal electricity generators rely on concentrating sunlight on a fluid, superheating it via flat or curved reflectors. The hot fluid circulates through a coil and exchanges its heat with water, which turns to steam and drives a turbine.

Wind Energy

The sun drives Earth’s winds, so wind power is technically a form of solar energy. The sun’s energy has been assimilated by the atmosphere and converted to mechanical energy that can drive turbines to produce electricity. Wind turbines have efficiencies of up to 50% and currently supply almost seven percent of the world’s electricity.

Collections of wind turbines that generate electricity on a large scale are known as wind farms, on land (onshore) or in coastal seas (offshore). Smaller turbines that supply electricity to individual homes are becoming increasingly common. But because the wind is unreliable, most homeowners use them to supplement power from other sources.

Hydro Energy

When water falls from a high elevation to a lower one, its kinetic energy can spin a turbine. Today, hydropower is the No. 1 form of renewable energy on Earth, supplying 17% of the world’s electricity.

Most hydropower comes from large dams or major waterfalls, like Niagara Falls, the birthplace of the world’s electric grid. Seven countries China, Brazil, the U.S., Canada, India, Japan and Russia produce the bulk of the world’s hydropower, but many others generate significant amounts. Homeowners with fast-moving streams on their properties can also use small turbines to supplement their electrical needs.

Tidal Energy

The sun’s energy, the Earth’s rotation and the gravitational forces of the sun, moon and planets combine to produce ocean currents. They have enough mechanical energy to produce significant amounts of electricity.

Several technologies exist to harness this energy, but the most common are:

• Tidal barrages: Placed in the mouths of large rivers or in lagoons function like dams. They force tidewater to back up to create a height differential, then use the spillover to spin turbines.
• Underwater tidal turbines: Similar to wind turbines, they generate electricity by spinning.

Today, tidal energy doesn’t account for a significant portion of the world’s electricity. But with developing technologies, it could supply as much as 10% in the future.

Geothermal Energy

Earth’s core is as hot as the surface of the sun. Just below the Earth’s surface, the temperature is a steady 57 degrees. That’s enough heat for ground-source heat pumps to provide warm air for buildings.

But that’s just the beginning. At greater depths and near fissures, geysers and volcanoes, hydrothermal reservoirs are far hotter around 360 degrees and above. Technologies exist to tap into this heat and use it directly for warming, or to boil water for steam to drive turbines.

Geothermal energy accounts for less than one percent of the world’s energy supply, but it’s largely an untapped resource. In the U.S., its availability has been growing two percent per year since 2016. Electricity from U.S. geothermal plants is projected to triple by 2050.

The post 6 Types of Renewable Energy appeared first on Family Handyman.

We can sometimes use the sun’s energy directly, like when we design homes to take advantage of passive solar heat. But when we want to use it for technology, we need ways to convert the sun’s raw output into mechanical, thermal or electrical energy.

Solar panels offer one way to do this. At present, they can convert 22% to 25% of sunlight into electricity. The low efficiency means you need a lot of panels for moderate power output.

I live in an off-grid home powered by solar panels, and we don’t have room for many of them. To keep the size of our array within practical limits, we need to limit our electricity usage.

We heat our water and home, run our refrigerator and cook with propane. That isn’t sustainable, however, especially given California’s intention to move away from gas in the near future. We’ve looked into or tried solar technologies for most of these purposes except, perhaps, the refrigerator. Who knows what the future will bring?

PV Panels

Solar panels are more properly called photovoltaic (PV) panels. When exposed to sunlight, they generate direct current (DC) to power 12V appliances or to charge a battery.

Appliances that run on 12V power are fine for camping. But we’ve found you have many more options if you convert to 120-volt alternating current (AC), and for that you need an inverter. Ours is outdated and produces a coarse signal that some appliances can’t use.

Contemporary inverters produce more reliable AC signals. They’re often built into the panels or battery storage units. That makes it easy to tie the system to the electrical service panel. And if you’re on the grid, you can sell the energy you produce back to the power company.

Solar Shingles

Solar shingles are interconnected mini PV panels that cover the whole roof or the sunniest portion. They function like full-size PV panels. But because they’re also a roof covering, the must be flexible, durable and water-resistant.

Each shingle is about the size of a standard shingle and produces between 13 and 63 watts of power, depending on the brand. If there are enough of them on the roof and they get enough sun, they can be a standalone power source. But in most cases, they supplement grid power or charge a storage battery.

We can’t use them, unfortunately, because a huge oak tree shades our whole roof.

Solar Lighting

Tiny PV panels, combined with rechargeable batteries and efficient LEDs, make it possible to have light at night.

The quality of outdoor solar lighting has improved dramatically over the last few years. Now solar landscape, path and string lights can keep burning well into the night and, in some cases, even until dawn. Best of all, they’re cheap, so you can have super-bright, long-lasting outdoor light for a minimal cash outlay.

Solar Water Heaters

About 20% of home energy usage goes to heating water, so a solar water heater can make a big dent in your energy bill. Most solar water heaters consist of a black panel that sits on the roof or on the ground, exposing water to the sun’s radiation.

An active water heating system employs a small pump to circulate water or a heat transfer fluid (for freezing climates) through coils in the panel. Hot water can go directly into a storage tank in the building or on the roof.

When you use a heat transfer fluid, it circulates through a set of coils installed in the water storage tank. The coils transfer heat to the water.

A passive water heating system has no pump and relies on natural convection to circulate water. The solar heater may be a black panel with coils, but it can also be as simple as a water tank covered with a transparent material that lets the sun’s radiation through. This type is a little less expensive and a lot less efficient.

Solar Ovens

Today’s solar ovens are more sophisticated than the one invented by Swiss scientist Horace-Benedict de Saussure in 1767. One of the most popular and easiest to use consists of foldable metal panels that reflect the sun’s energy and focus it on a cooking box. This makes it easy to DIY.

Solar ovens are a godsend to people all around the world with limited access to electricity. But like all things solar, they’re heavily dependent on the weather and don’t work at night. We’ve found when you cook with a solar oven, you must adjust your cooking timetable to coincide with the sun’s movements. That usually means adjusting your meal schedules as well.

Solar Fans

If you want your house to be dry and comfortable and your roof to last, you need good attic ventilation. In some cases, that means circulating air with a fan.

We’ve found running a solar attic fan in the summer really cools the rest of the house. You can also use one to circulate air in the house itself a kind of solar air conditioner, minus the refrigerant.

A solar fan draws its power from a roof-mounted PV panel, so it costs nothing to operate. But if you want it to run on cloudy days, you’ll need a battery. That’s an extra expense, but not a major one. Here’s everything you need to know about solar-powered attic fans.

The post How Is Solar Energy Used in Homes? appeared first on Family Handyman.

What Is a Whole House Fan?

A whole-house fan is a large electric fan, usually centrally located within a home or other building, that circulates air through the entire place. It pulls in fresh air from open windows and doors and pushes hot air out and into an attic, where it can then escape through attic vents.

Whole House Fans vs. Attic Fans: What’s the Difference?

An attic fan is made specifically to ventilate an attic, pulling out hot, stale air so that heat and humidity don’t build up in your attic. An attic fan helps prevent problems like mold and mildew from the space and even helps extend the life of your roof by preventing problems like ice dams in the winter and excessive heat buildup in the summer.

How Does a Whole House Fan Work?

The basic concept is simple: An attic-mounted fan pushes hot air out through attic vents and draws cooler, outside air in through open doors and windows. This rapid air exchangelarge fans can purge a house of hot air in two to three minutesnot only removes built-up heat but also creates a pleasant breeze.

A whole house fan can turn over the air in a home up as much as six times an hour, depending on the size of the house.

When you use a whole-house fan, its important to open doors and windows. Otherwise the fan may cause gas-burning appliances, such as your furnace or water heater, to backdraft exhaust fumes and carbon monoxide into your home. Whole house fans are not allowed in all areas. You should check your local building codes before buying one.

How whole house fans keep a home cool and save on energy costs

Depending on the severity of your summers, a fan can work as an efficient pre-chiller before you switch on your air conditioner, or even as your sole source of cooling. Using only a tenth as much power as your air conditioner, a fan bringing in cooler night and/or morning air can lower inside temperatures by 5 degrees or more in just a few minutes and help you save on energy costs.

For homeowners living in dry climates with wide day/night temperature swings, you may be able to do without the air conditioner by simply switching the fan on during cool hours and then turning off the fan and shutting the house during the hottest times of the day.

Whole-house fans arent perfect. They cant cool inside temps lower than outside temps, nor can they dehumidify. If you live in a humid region, youll still need to lean on your air conditioner in the dog days of summer. And while most folks may prefer fresh outside air, if you suffer from allergies, realize that fans draw in outdoor pollen and dust.

How to Choose a Whole House Fan

A local HVAC installer can help you find the fan that best fits your home and climate. Keep in mind that size isnt everything. Larger fans are great for moving air quickly, but when you weigh the increased size against installation requirements, insulation, appearance, noise and cost, you may opt for a smaller fan. (Depending on your needs and floor plan, several smaller fans may provide better airflow.)

Attic ventilation is almost as important as the fan. A fan wont work if the hot air doesnt have an easy way out; without adequate ventilation the fan may force hot air down on you! Fans require 1 sq. ft. of net free vent area per 750 cfm. If you dont want to install additional venting, it may make sense to stick with a smaller fan.

These days, there are several different types of fans to choose from. In addition to the large traditional models, manufacturers have come up with types that are easier to install and better insulated.

Before you buy, contact your utility company to see if youre eligible for an energy rebate. You may also be able to reclaim a portion of the cost as an energy tax credit on your income taxes.

Types of Whole House Fans

Standard fan

Because theyre the most affordable and widely available, large-diameter fans are still a good solution for homeowners living in warmer regions. These fans cost less up front, but installation may be more difficult. Moving a joist in order to frame out a box for the fan, or installing additional attic venting might wind up costing more than the fan itself. Another disadvantage is that during the winter, the vented opening works like an open window, giving warm moist air an easy path out and into your attic. To prevent heat loss, youll need to build an insulated box to cover your fan during the off-season.

Pros

• Affordable
• Larger, more powerful

Cons

• Installation can be more difficult
• Heat loss in the winter without adding insulation

Insulated-door fan

If you live in an area with frequent cold snaps, youll want a fan that holds in the heat when its not in use. Door fans come with insulated (R-22 or R-38) panels that open every time you turn the fans on. This feature not only helps during winter months but also keeps heat out during the summer when youre running your AC.

These models dont move as much air as standard fans, but they tend to run quieter, so they can be run all night. Like standard fans, these units are usually installed in a hallway, but some smaller models are specially designed to fit in between or around existing trusses or joists to make installation easier.

Pros

• Insulated panels add to efficiency
• Quieter than standard fans

Cons

• Don’t move as much air as standard fans
• More expensive

Inline fan

Fan/insulated duct units dont move as much air as standard fans, but by investing in one fan per bedroom, you can provide a breeze effect in the room(s) you most want to cool. The small intake port is not only less obtrusive than the large louvered panels needed with other fans but also easier to install. (A flexible duct connects the intake port to the fan.) Like insulated door fans, inline fans have damper doors within them that prevent warm air from leaking out in winter.

Pros

• Perfect for single rooms
• Easy to install
• Damper doors

Cons

• Only works for individual rooms and smaller spaces
• Not as powerful

The post How to Choose the Best Whole House Fan for Your Home appeared first on Family Handyman.

Best Overall Solar Pool Cover

Sun2Solar Blue 1200 Series Solar Cover

Crafted from durable and ultraviolet (UV)-resistant material, this best solar pool cover from Sun2Solar offers outstanding protection against the elements, keeping your pool water warm and free of debris. Sunlight is about to fully penetrate through, thanks to the translucent materials, creating a natural greenhouse effect that warms up water with maximum heat retention. The bubbled surface traps and transfers solar energy effectively by creating an insulating layer that prevents heat and moisture from escaping.

Using the Sun2Solar solar cover couldn’t be simplerjust place it on top of the water, bubble-side down, and ensure it’s unfurled from edge to edge. Its 16-foot-by-20-foot footprint is large enough to fit most standard rectangular above-ground pools snugly and securely. Built-in grommets help secure the cover in place, preventing wind from blowing it away.

“Wow!!!” writes five-star reviewer, Ira. “All I have to say is that I’ve had the blue pool cover before and it didn’t heat up my pool as fast as the clear cover has heated it up. I would buy it again when needed, and I completely recommend buying the clear pool solar cover. My pool is so very warm and I love it!!!”

Pros

• Effectively retains heat
• Reduces water evaporation
• Saves energy
• Easy to install
• Made of durable resin

Cons

• Some reviewers say it’s a bit thin
• Options for rectangular and square pools only

$139.99 at Amazon

The post 6 Best Solar Pool Covers to Trap in Heat appeared first on Family Handyman.

Building sustainably doesnt always involve new and innovative building products. Sometimes it takes a traditional building method, modified to improve energy efficiency. Thats exactly what we did when designing the framing for our Sustainable Retreat.

We wanted to keep it simple and efficient, so we built double 2×4 walls. This double-walled framing technique adds lots of insulation and removes the heat transfer that happens through the studs. This path to sustainable home building succeeds by using a skill anyone can learn, instead of experimenting with a new material.

Frame the outer walls

Begin by building the exterior walls as normal. Start with a top and bottom plate cut to the length of the wall and mark out the 16 inches on-center stud layout, as well as the window locations with jack and king studs.

On a standard roof with a ridge beam, the layout is marked on the top and bottom plate at the same time. On this shed-style type of roof, we laid out the heights of the walls on the floor to transfer the layout to the top plate and get an accurate measurement for each stud.

The post How to Frame a Structure Using Energy-Saving Techniques appeared first on Family Handyman.

Best Overall Eco-Friendly Dishwasher

Bosch 300 Series Top-Control Dishwasher

The Bosch 300 Series is one of the best eco-friendly dishwashers, complete with an advanced precision washing system for the optimal amount of water to clean your dishes. The PureDry technology pulls water off plates and cups and onto the stainless steel interior without a heating element, which means it can easily wash and dry plastics, like baby bottles.

Moreover, the dishwasher has five cycle options, including a National Sanitation Foundation-Certified Sanitization cycle to eliminate 99.9% of bacteria. We’re also big fans of the third rack for silverware, and the adjustable upper rack and flexible tines for larger pots and pans.

Pros

• Precision washing system
• Has a third rack
• Includes flexible tines
• Quiet 48-decibel (dB) sound rating

Cons

• No pre-soak cycle

Shop Now

The post 7 Best Eco-Friendly Dishwashers to Save the Environment (and Your Wallet) appeared first on Family Handyman.

Custom Tapered Spa Cover

This tapered spa cover features a key-operated lock, making it a smart choice for security at homes with small children. The triple-reinforced hinge stands up to frequent use and operates smoothly with a separate lifting device. Unlike some covers that have a mesh bottom, this one features a solid bottom that resists damage from pool chemicals, like chlorine and bromine.

Shop on Wayfair

The post 10 Hot Tub Covers to Keep Your Oasis Clean and Safe From the Elements appeared first on Family Handyman.

As a longtime gardener, Ive been composting for years. But there are downsides to a home compost pile. For one, its very time-consuming. There’s work that goes into chopping corn stalks, gathering leaves (from my neighbors) and turning the pile to aerate it. It takes a year or two to harvest the goodness. In the meantime, weeds can quickly grow in the pile, which I begrudgingly spend time raking to eliminate the roots.What’s a person to do?

Now, there’s a solution with the electric countertop Lomi Composter. Lomi takes care of the clean-up and adds nutrients to the earth in less than a day. I tried it, and it will change the way I deal with food waste forever.

You dont need to be a worm farmer or gardener to love the Lomi Composter. Apartment dwellers, moms and cooks love how Lomi turns smelly leftovers into dirt that can be thrown in the trash or green bin. No more fruit flies!

More importantly, you cant put proteins and fats in a backyard compost pile, but you can in the Lomi kitchen composter. I was sold immediately.

An Expert’s Take on the Importance of Composting

Did you know that the food thrown into the landfills creates methane gas which contributes to climate changing carbon emissions?

Author of 150 Food Science Questions Answered, Bryan Q. Le, Ph.D., says “Composting is a way to convert food waste into nutrients suitable for use by crops and plants. Without composting, most if not all of the food material would end up in the landfill, where it would slowly decompose anaerobically and release methane gas into the atmosphere. Since methane is a much more potent greenhouse gas than carbon dioxide, it can be a powerful contributor to global warming. As the food waste decays, it can also leech out carbon and nitrogen nutrients into the surrounding environment, which can cause excess growth of bacteria, algae, and other unwanted species or contaminate underground sources of water.”

Dr. Le goes on to say, “Additionally, landfilling food waste leads to indirect losses of nutrients, water, and potential energy. All of the original inputs that led to the production of the food are no longer accessible once the food has been wasted. Many of those inputs, such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, are produced using a tremendous amount of energy and mining labor. Composting helps to return those nutrients back into the soil, where it can contribute to the next crop harvest, versus being buried underneath thousands of tons of waste.”

As European countries and some U.S states are imposing laws and high fees for green bin services, composting food waste will become the norm, even for non-gardeners. So, are you going to hop aboard the composting bandwagon?

What is the Lomi Composter?

This electric kitchen composter is a hassle-free way to turn food scraps into rich compost. The Lomi Composter is a countertop appliance that breaks down kitchen waste, including vegetables, meats, proteins and most leftovers (unlike traditional composting methods). The unit grinds and heats the food scraps, and it magically breaks down the food to 20 percent of its original form.

The Lomi Composter is a beautiful white appliance with a 2.5-liter bucket. Similar to the size of a bread-maker, the Lomi is 16 inches wide, 13 inches deep and 12 inches high. People with limited counter space may prefer to use it in a utility room, garage or basement, which will also help reduce the noise of the Lomi while its working.

Activated carbon for filtration is included, which effectively reduces odors. The charcoal needs to be changed every three to six months, depending on use. The package also includes 45 LomiPods to add microbes to the compost.

Additionally, Lomi offers convenient subscriptions for the carbon and the microbial LomiPod tablets at a discounted price.

As a certified climate-neutral product, the Lomi composter puts nutrients back into the earth while reducing food waste that generates methane in landfills. Ultimately, composting food waste before it hits the landfill will help reduce greenhouse emissions.

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Product Features

The Lomi is simple to use and clean, and the result is an 80% reduction in food waste. Plus, it’s hard to beat Lomi’s one-day compost that I can use in my gardens.

The airtight lid and charcoal filters contain any stinky smells, and the bucket is dishwasher-safe. If you want to watch the Lomi Composter work, purchase the Lomi Skylight lid.

The unit has three operating modes to choose from:

• Eco-Express mode is the quick way to break down your food scraps, but because of the high heat, which kills the microorganisms, the compost isnt as fertile as it is when using the Grow Mode. Eco-Express is the default mode on the machine, which can easily be changed by simply pushing the button. This mode takes between 3 to 5 hours to complete a cycle.
• Grow mode is for gardeners who want nutrient-rich compost. This mode takes up to 20 hours to complete a cycle. By using a slower process, Lomi retains the microbes. And if you use the LomiPods, you add even more microbes to the mix.
• Lomi-Approved mode is used for composting approved bioplastics and compostable packaging. I believe this future-forward setting will be used more as companies get on the Climate-Neutral bandwagon and shift their packaging practices. The packaging that Lomi arrives in can even be composted in this mode!

How I Tested It

First, I read through the instruction manual and learned that there are three Lomi modes to choose from: The Eco-Express mode, the Lomi-Approved mode and the Grow mode. As a gardener, I was most interested in the Grow mode, so that I could use it in my organic vegetable garden.

Set up was simple. Lomi gives you two packages of activated charcoal to put in the filter compartments. The purpose of the activated carbon is to absorb the smellsand it does!

I had saved up coffee grounds and cleaned out my refrigerator. I had half a head of wilted celery in the bottom of the crisper drawer, avocado skins (pits can’t go in the Lomi), banana peels and leftover ham and lentil soup (yes, Lomi can compost meat and dairy in addition to vegetables and bread).

Using Eco-Express Mode

I decided to try the Eco-Express Mode first. I put in a LomiPod tablet, but didn’t add any water as this tip wasn’t included in the instruction manual.

The Lomi videos show that you can use the boxes’ packaging as part of the Lomi brown ingredient. But coffee grounds and filters are considered brown materials in traditional composting, so I didn’t add any cardboard or paper products to the mix. I chopped up the celery into manageable pieces. I put the unit in the basement in case the noise was bothersome (to my dog), but mainly because it’s where I have an available 3-prong power outlet.

Within minutes of plugging it in, I detected a faint celery smell upstairs. Several hours later, I went downstairs to check it out. Just as promised, the full bucket had broken down into a dry and fibrous material (not dirt). It had a fresh sweet scent.

Using Grow Mode

A few days later, I had a bunch of green bananas that never ripened but became hard instead (I hate when that happens). I chopped the bananas, some hairy carrots and soft cucumbers, and tore up a used paper plate to add to the bucket. I set the machine on Grow mode and added a tablet and 2 ounces of water.

The next day, the bucket contents were reduced to a few handfuls of nice smelling compost that looked like super finely shredded bark. I was excited that it did its job in less than a day, otherwise I’d be looking at those hairy carrots on the pile for months!

Here’s What I Learned

Each cycle thereafter was easy and convenient to break down, and the activated carbon kept the smells contained in the machine. Ive even left the decomposed material in the bucket for several days after running it and was afraid I would find mold or a horrific smell when I opened the Lomi. Instead, I had beautiful compost that I put in my sleeping garden.

Upon further research, I learned that adding new food scraps to the previously-composted material make the next batch of compost even richer. Since the Lomi breaks down a full bucket of food scraps into a cup or two, theres still plenty of room in the bucket to add more. I also learned that the tablets arent really necessary, but the microbes can be beneficial for garden compost.

My main goal with the Lomi was to break down my food waste so that I didnt attract critters to my yard. During the winter months, I dont throw much on the compost pile because I like to harvest my black gold in the spring without dealing with chunks of half-rotted winter waste.

Receiving the Lomi in the winter months was perfect. Ive been tossing the new compost into my garden beds and compost pile as I patiently wait for planting season.

Gardeners should mix one part Grow mode compost with 10 parts garden soil. Some gardeners store their Lomi compost in a plastic tub for later use or to start worm farms. The bucket is easy enough to tote to my compost pile, even in the winter. However, I love the idea of storing the compost in the winter to avoid stray weed seeds.

Since my lawn mower mulches and I dont have a big leaf problem, I think Ill turn that old compost pile into a watermelon plot!

Pros

• Eco-friendly
• Reduces food waste by 80%
• Makes nutrient-rich fertilizer
• No more stinky garbage
• Odor-free operation
• Easy to use
• Easy to clean
• Net zero impact
• Can compost animal products
• One-year happiness guarantee

Cons

• Must cut ingredients in small pieces
• Some users report faulty fans
• Pricey

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FAQ

Can paper towels go in a Lomi Composter?

Yes, paper towels can go into your Lomi as long as they are mixed in with other green matter. Its also best to tear them up a bit and stuff them to the sides of the machine. I put coffee filters and paper plate pieces in my Lomi and have only found one chunk that didnt get shredded by the machine.

How much electricity does Lomi use?

Not much. Lomi claims that they have the only electric appliance with a net positive impact.

The Eco-Express cycle takes 3 to 5 hours to complete and uses 0.5 kWh. Whereas the Grow mode takes up to 20 hours and only uses 1 kWh (1 kWh is equivalent to cooking in an oven for 30 minutes or using a 100w lightbulb for 10 hours).

What Other Users Had to Say

Amazon customer Silverbelle1019 gave Lomi 5-stars, writing, I love my Lomi Composter.. my plants are flourishing as a result of using high nutrient co.post in the soil. I may never make enough compost to justify the cost, but I am recycling lots of organic waste and helping keep it out of garbage dumps. It is efficient and odorless.

A verified Amazon Customer says, Visually looks nice, sits on my counter and doesnt take up too much space. The bucket is a bit small but it works. I have a family of 6 and quite a bit of organic waste daily. I run it daily and it keeps the garbage manageable. And goes on to say, Lomi helps me not have to make a trip to take out the garbage as often and helped to get rid of the fly issue that was happening when we threw the organic waste in the cart provided by the city. For that, its worth the money! Hope it lasts! No issues so far. Been using it daily for a few months now.

Barb G., verified Lomi customer says, The LOMI unit is efficient and effective! The aroma of the beautifully prepared compost is natural and clean..it is NOT smelly no matter what other silly people have said. With composting laws in California being what they are, this is a fantastic countertop product. Composting charges are being leveled on households now and kitchen waste cannot go into the waste stream any longer. We have ours parked in the laundry room on the counter for daily use.”

Final Verdict

Lomi does a great job turning garbage into planet food with the push of a button.

Performance and ease of use are impressive with this kitchen composter. This investment won’t disappoint. It’s superior to the trash compactors from the 80s because it transforms trash into something good for the planet.

The thing I love most is that I wont have to wait a year to have great compost. Its a totally different way of composting, and I absolutely love it.

In my opinion, individual habits do affect our planet. I applaud anyone who thinks about their actions and tries to do better. The Lomi may not be for everyone, but if you can do anything to reduce the amount of food that goes into the landfills, it will help.

Where to Buy the Lomi Composter

Its not often that you find a life-changing product, but the revolutionary Lomi Composter qualifies as such. Ready to purchase? Lomi is available on Amazon and the Lomi website. Keep your kitchen clean and fresh and let Lomi take care of your food waste today!

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Best Overall Solar Oven

GoSun Fusion Hybrid Solar Oven

Cook after the sun sets with the hybrid GoSun Fusion. This is the best overall hybrid solar oven because of its large capacity and ability to bake, roast and fry your meals. This solar oven has the ability to cook four portions at once. No sun, no problemthis unit can be plugged into a portable power bank or 12V electricity from your RV, car or boat.

This solar oven is more than an emergency tool, its a fun way to cook for free. Available at Camping World, Tractor Supply, Home Depot, Amazon, Wellbots, Wayfairand GoSun.

$349 at GoSun

The post Best Portable Solar Oven Options for On-the-Go Meals appeared first on Family Handyman.

Classic Log Cabin

Solar panels power this classic log cabin, The Shank Wood Cabin from @fishinghideaway. Built with hand-scraped and locally sourced timber, it features wood-burning stoves for heating the interior and the outdoor hot tub, proving you don’t have to sacrifice luxuries to live off-grid.

If you already own one, here are some useful tips on cleaning log cabin exterior. You can also curate a shoreline landscape design for your cabin!

The post 8 Small Cabin Ideas for Off-Grid Living appeared first on Family Handyman.

What Is Peecycling?

The term peecycling comes from a combination of peeing and recycling. Peecycling is actually a real thing that’s happening, spearheaded by the Rich Earth Institute in Brattleboro, Vermont. As part of the institute’s Urine Nutrient Reclamation Program, people can donate their pee. The Rich Earth Institute distributes 2.5- and five-gallon plastic jugs with odor-blocking funnel attachments. According to the institute, the setup “can be used as a urinal or an easy-to-pour-into container,” by using the nuns cap or yogurt container and then pouring the contents into the funnel. They even distribute a “decorative cloth cozy” that fits over the jug for privacy. They also rent urine-collecting portable toilets for public events.

How Does Urine Work As Fertilizer?

Human urine is a rich source of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. According to the Rich Earth Institute, one adult produces about 125 gallons of urine per year. That’s enough fertilizer to grow 320 pounds of wheat.

The world faces a fertilizer shortage due to the war in Ukraine, and a critical need to find alternative sources of fertilizer. According to Rabobank, 20% of the world’s nitrogen fertilizer is exported by Russiaand along with Belarus, 40% of the world’s potassium.

Does Peecycling Help the Environment?

Beyond helping farmers to grow more food, peecycling is good for the environment. When flushed into wastewater systems, contaminants in fertilizers create environmentally damaging algal blooms. According to the Rich Earth Institute, a household can save about 4,000 gallons of potable water annually by not flushing.

The post Could Peecycling Help Struggling Farmers? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Space heaters direct warmth right at the user, making them a viable option to boost a chilly room or substandard heating system. But as Christmas 2022’s “bomb cyclone” proved, a space heater can only do so much. We moved inside.

Do you have a space heater? Do you know how much it costs to run? Read on to find out your heater’s impact on your bottom line.

How Many Watts Does a Space Heater Use?

Electric space heaters for home use are usually rated for 1,500 watts at max power. That’s according to Ace Hardware, in partnership with Lasko, maker of home comfort products. (Putting your heater on a low setting will use less energy.)

How Much Electricity Does a Space Heater Use?

A 1,500-watt electric space heater draws 12.5 amps of electricity at 120 volts. (Watts = amps x voltage.) But what does that mean for your electric bill?

The utility doesn’t charge you for electricity in amps. It charges you for power consumed, and that’s measured in kilowatt-hours (kWh).

To figure out how many kilowatt-hours a space heater uses, and therefore how much it costs to run it, take the space heater rating in watts and multiply it by how many hours per day you use it. Then divide that number by 1,000 to convert to kWh.

Let’s say you have a home office in your garage like I do, and you use your 1,500-watt space heater eight hours per day. So 1,500 watts x 8 hours per day / 1000 = 12 kWh. As of November 2022, the average cost of electricity in the U.S. was $0.163 per kilowatt-hour. So 12kWh x $0.163 = $1.96 per day.

Bottom line: Your 1,500-watt space heater running eight hours per day will cost you about two dollars per day to operate, depending on your electricity rate.

Do Space Heaters Use a Lot of Electricity?

It depends on how you look at it.

Heat producers like dryers, space heaters and furnaces generally use more energy than electronic devices like computers. Because we know how to calculate the energy costs of your space heater, let’s compare those numbers to other appliances and devices in your home.

Television

Check the back of your TV to see how many watts it typically uses. Mine is 73 watts, about average for its size. You guessed it! A 73-watt television consumes much less power than a 1,500-watt space heater.

Running four hours a day, a 73-watt TV costs about a nickel per day to operate, or a little more than $17 per year. And that doesn’t include vampire energy. In comparison, a 1,500-watt space heater running four hours a day costs nearly $1 per day, or about $88 for three months of daily winter usage.

Laptop computer

Laptops draw power through their charger and use the battery when not plugged in. A laptop’s energy use varies depending on what it’s doing. Checking email will use significantly less energy than running a game.

A 96-watt laptop charging two hours a day costs about three cents daily, or $11.42 per year.

Vacuum cleaner

A vacuum cleaner uses 1,000 to 1,440 watts, although models vary (mine is only 840W). To find your specific energy usage, look at the label on your vacuum. Multiply the amps times the voltage to get the power consumed (in watts), then use the formula.

A 1,000-watt vacuum cleaner used one hour per week consumes one kWh of energy. At the average rate of $0.163 per kWh, the vacuum cleaner costs about $8.50 per year to run.

Clothes dryer

The average family does 300 loads of laundry per year. That’s about $245 per year for a 5,000-watt clothes dryer, making it one of the biggest energy users in your home. A 1,500-watt space heater running for the same 300 hours would cost $73.35 at the average electricity rate cited above.

The post How Much Electricity Does a Space Heater Use? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Whether you toss a string of lights on a potted evergreen or deck out your house Clark Griswold-style, putting up Christmas lights gets us into the holiday spirit. Taking them down, though? Not as much of a high. Maybe that’s why some people leave them up until they (and possibly you) just can’t take it anymore.

I had a neighbor who left Christmas lights up year round, and I once neglected mine until February. (Though I did feel bad about that.) But what does an etiquette expert have to say on the subject? How long can you properly and safely leave them up?

When To Take Down Christmas Lights

Though you’re free to leave them up as long as you want barring a city ordinance Diane Gottsman, an etiquette expert and founder of the Protocol School of Texas, suggests a more firm deadline.

“Lights can come down anytime after Christmas and preferably before Three Kings Day,” she says. That means January 6, the feast of the Epiphany in Christian tradition, which signifies the end of the Twelve Days of Christmas.

The National Fire Protection Association’s National Electric Code (NEC) has its own rule about holiday lights: You can keep them up for 90 days, max. Find out if it is safe to hang Christmas lights on palm trees.

Why It’s Important To Take Down Christmas Lights

“People who leave their lights up for too long often irritate neighbors who want their neighborhood to look fresh and well-maintained,” Gottsman says. (Guilty. Hey, my neighbor’s sad puddles of flattened inflatables were still there in June!) And, Gottsman says, it detracts from your home’s curb appeal.

“Holiday lights are welcome during the season,” she says. “But when you wait too long to take them down, it appears as if you’ve overlooked an important part of the tradition.”

Let’s talk about the safety aspect, too. The NEC isn’t concerned about judgy neighbors so much as preventing fires. People hang Christmas lights in trees, use a bunch of extension cords and generally do things that aren’t up to code for regular permanent wiring. Find out when you should take down a Christmas tree.

What’s more, growing vegetation puts a strain on wiring and can wear down insulation. So take them down in a timely manner, keeping the NEC deadline in mind. Christmas lights aren’t designed for year-round use.

How To Take Down Lights

“There’s always someone who leaves them up too long,” Gottsman says. Don’t let that be you this year. Here are some ideas for removing and storing your Christmas lights, so you’ll be ready to go when next Thanksgiving (or Halloween, for you early birds) rolls around.

Be safe

Don’t just start ripping lights off the house and trees. You’ll break bulbs and stress the wiring, which can be a potential fire hazard. About 790 house fires per year start with holiday decorations, according to the National Fire Protection Association. Unplug all your Christmas lights before taking them down, and practice good ladder safety.

Test

When the excitement of next season rolls around, don’t let a string of dead Christmas lights ruin your mood. Test every light set and other electric decorations now before stashing them. Plug them in to see if they light, or use a Christmas light tester to find and repair common problems like half-illuminated strings.

Store neatly

When you’re certain your Christmas lights are in good working order, don’t just jam them in a box and call it a day. That’s a recipe for frustration next year. Wind them around a cardboard “spool,” or make a real spool with dowels or even 2x4s. Spool them backward, starting at the non-plug end, so it’s easy to unspool from the power source next year.

Label

Some people wing their lighting displays each year. Others, not so much.

If Santa’s sleigh needs a specific wattage or flashing pattern or whatever crazy thing you’re doing this season, label your lights so you know what’s what. Group displays together in containers, and label the outside of the bin.

Recycle

If you discover lights that don’t work and aren’t worth fixing, recycle them. Hardware stores often take them, as do some charities. Check your city and county websites to see your options. Even if your city doesn’t have a recycling program, they should provide disposal and recycling information.

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