Account for Wood Movement

Sure, wood’s a pretty tough material all around, but it’s still highly susceptible to temperature and moisture fluctuations from the surrounding environment. This phenomenon, known as wood movement, can result in contraction and expansion across the grain. When humidity is high, wood absorbs moisture and swells. When humidity drops, wood shrinks.

The movement is gradual, but it can cause big problems in your woodworking projects, so you have to account for it in your woodworking projects. There are several ways to do that, some of them depending on the type of project and where it will sit once finished. The most important tactic for dealing with wood movement is to let it sit and acclimate in your shop. The time can vary depending on the size and thickness of the lumber and whether or not its kiln dried.

The post 10 Basic Woodworking Lessons You Should’ve Learned In Shop Class appeared first on Family Handyman.

I grew up with parents who love music. Dancing was a favorite pastime in my household, and my mother still has an extensive album collection to this day. If you havent noticed, those old-school vinyl records are back in vogue. Now that they’re considered cool again, there’s been some huge growth in LP record player sales. As I looked over my moms old albums, I thought it would be cool to figure out a nice way to display them. With that goal in mind, I began to tinker around with how to make a wooden crate with a vinyl record display.

If you’ll allow me to get on my DIY soapbox: I truly believe that once you know how to make a box, you can make a million things. Lets make it a million and one with this hip and a bit retro wood record crate.

Project Overview

Cutting List

Overall dimensions: 16-1/2″w x 16-1/2″h x 17-1/4″d

Cut the wood

For this project, I found some 5/8-inch thick walnut wood boards at the lumber yard. If you cannot find any similar boards, you may wish to run 3/4-in. boards through a thickness planner or drum sander to get to 5/8-inch, or simply construct the project using 3/4-inch thick material. Keep in mind the latter will alter some dimensions on the cutting list.

Cut wood slats (A, D), trim pieces (B, C), and album ledger (E) out of the walnut lumber using the table saw and miter saw.

The post Show Off Your Records with This DIY Wooden Crate Display appeared first on Family Handyman.

Circles are difficult to create. Whether you draw them by hand or try to achieve that perfect circle with a tool, they are not always easy, especially when it comes to wood. I tell all my clients that curves and circles always cost moretime and moneyuntil your world opens up to a router circle jig, also known as a trammel arm.

A router circle jig basically sets the center point and allows you to make a circle with whatever you put at the other end of it, sort of like a compass. A pencil, a jigsaw, a router can all work well to make a circle with a trammel arm jig. I used to dread making circles until I found out I could attach my wood router to a jig. Let me make your woodworking life easier and certainly much more pleasant by sharing the steps to making this simple woodworking jig. You may not need it often, but when you do, you will be happy to know how to make it!

Remove the router base plate

Unscrew the plastic base plate (also called a shoe, running plate, or sub-base) to remove it from the wood router.

The post Cut Perfect Circles Every Time With This Easy DIY Router Circle Jig appeared first on Family Handyman.

One of the most satisfying things I have learned is how to refinish wood furniture. I cant begin to tell you how many pieces of furniture that were once someone else’s garbage have landed in my hands. With the right attention, approach and dedication, another mans garbage can become your treasure.

The hardest part about restoring a piece of wood furniture is developing the patience to see all the steps through. This is one DIY project you dont want to rush, and it is highly unlikely you will get it done in one afternoon. Restoring old furniture is hardly ever straight forward, and a technique that worked for one piece might not work for another. The trick is to know your options and then have enough knowledge to do the detective work and make an effective plan.

The steps are basic and easy. Be patient and thorough, and people will think your refinished wood furniture is new!

Assess the condition

Take a good look at your piece of wood furniture from as many angles as possible. Use painters tape to pinpoint areas that will need extra attention, such as putty build-up or deep dings that will require extra sanding to even out. It is easy to overlook areas when the dust starts flying. Then, you will need to answer some questions to determine how you go about refinishing your piece of furniture:

Is the piece made out of solid wood, laminate, or veneered plywood?

A solid wood piece of furniture is one of the most forgiving and most suitable candidates for refinishing. With veneered plywood furniture, you need to be cautious when sanding, not to sand through the wood veneer. Laminate furniture is the worst candidate for refinishing because the plastic laminate won’t take sanding, stain, or paint well.

Are the joints solid, or do they need reinforcement?

If nails or screws are loose, secure them so no further damage is done while you are refinishing it. You want to work on a solid piece and avoid having a leg fall off while you are sanding. If it requires gluing, use clamps to get a tight fit and a paintbrush or screwdriver to push it down into any deep voids.

Is there a stain under the topcoat that you may have to match?

If you have stained wood under a topcoat or sealer, you will have difficulty doing a perfect color match. Stain and sealer colors change with age, making them yellow or even deepen in tone. Therefore, it is very difficult to get an exact match. This would be the time to consider painting the furniture a solid paint color. If you choose to paint it a solid paint color, you may use all the following steps, but add a good coat of primer before proceeding with paint instead of clear sealer.

Is the current finish water-based or oil-based?

This is the most important piece of detective work you must uncover. If the finish has a yellowing appearance, it is probably an oil-based finish. Also, if a piece of wood furniture was made before the 1980s, it is even more likely to be oil-based, as water-based clear sealers didnt take off until then. The importance of this question lies in what paint, stain, or finish you plan to refinish it with. Water-based finishes can only go over water-based finishes, but oil-based finishes can cover everything.

Clean the surface

Remove all of the hardware and clean the surface using a solution made up of three parts water and one part vinegar. This will help break down grease and grime. Be sure not to use a heavily saturated wet rag; you want to wipe off the dirt and grime and not leave a lot of excess moisture on the wood. Allow it to dry well before moving on.

The post How To Refinish Wood Furniture appeared first on Family Handyman.

Most people think of a lazy Susan as a simple round circle spinning on a table. However, in my mind, the form a lazy Susan takes can truly be up to its creator. I decided to make a DIY lazy Susan and take the concept to a whole new level by making it a charcuterie board. These days, it seems like everyone is caught up in a charcuterie craze. Charcuterie boards are being served up everywhere. Restaurants, parties, events all seem to offer a combination of fruits, nuts, cheese, crackers and cured meats served on a wooden serving board. However, I have yet to see a spinning Lazy Susan Charcuterie board.

The way I approached the steps makes this project almost DIY fail-proof. First, you will see how easily the charcuterie board-style tray takes shape with the help of an acrylic router template. Then, I will share the secret to installing a Lazy Susan Mechanism, and I am certain you will be amazed at how easy it is. Get the nuts, fruit and cured meats ready while we DIY our way to presentation, presentation, presentation!

Set up the router template

Cut the wood slightly larger than the acrylic router template, which at its widest point is roughly 12-inch x 8-inch.

Place the acrylic router template on the piece of wood and position it where you like it. Use a pencil to outline the template so you have an established starting position. Secure the wood and router template to your worktable with clamps so it doesnt shift while routing.

The post How To Make a DIY Lazy Susan appeared first on Family Handyman.

There’s an interesting scientific reason for this unusual cleaning method to restore your wooden furniture to its former glory.

Does Mayo Remove Water Stains?

Often, yes. Mayonnaise can effectively remove water stains from wood surfaces. The success of this method lies in its composition. Its primary ingredientsoil and egg yolkswork together to address the underlying causes of water stains.

The oils in mayonnaise penetrate the wood, displacing the moisture that caused the stain. Meanwhile, the fats help to condition the wood, potentially restoring its natural luster. The vinegar or lemon juice often present in mayonnaise can also help to break down any mineral deposits left behind by the water.

How to Remove Water Stains With Mayo

Materials: You’ll need mayonnaise, a soft cloth, and a clean, dry towel.

Step-by-step

• Thoroughly clean the surface area: Gently clean the stained area with a damp cloth to remove dust or debris.
• Apply the mayonnaise: Spread a thick layer of mayonnaise directly onto the water stain. Make sure to cover the entire affected area. Allow the mayonnaise to remain on the stain for at least an hour. For tougher stains, you may want to leave it overnight.
• Wipe off the mayonnaise: Gently wipe away the mayonnaise using a soft, clean cloth.
• Buff the area: With a clean, dry towel, buff the treated area to remove any remaining oil residue.
• Assess the results: Check if the stain has disappeared. If it’s still visible, you may need to repeat the process.
  • If needed, you can apply furniture polish to restore shine and protect the wood.

@astr33t

How to get Water spots off of wooden surfaces using Mayo! #lifehacks #mayo #cleaninghacks #cleaningtiktok

Little Things – Adrin Berenguer

Does This Method Always Work?

This viral trend has been attempted online many times with varying results. Some swear by the technique, while others claim it didn’t have any effect. That will depend on several different factors, including the wood types, damage significance and any user error.

Remember, while this method is generally safe for most wood finishes, it’s always wise to test it on an inconspicuous area first. If you’re dealing with sentimental, valuable or antique furniture, consider consulting a professional before attempting DIY treatments.

The post Removing Water Stains With Mayo: How To Do It appeared first on Family Handyman.

If you enjoy spending time with friends and family as much as I do, you know having a bar at home makes entertaining that much easier. Having all your beverages and accessories within reach and well-organized will make your social gatherings stress-free. So, why not make it yourself? All your choices, personality, character and style. Here is to building a bar – Cheers!

A note about paint and stain

You will notice that this project contains both painted and stained components. When constructing woodworking projects such as this, I always paint and stain my parts before assembling them. This allows the project to be completed faster by just touching up paint and requires less taping off and cutting in. That’s why I’ll include the finish in the cutting list below.

The only exception to that rule is when a component requires a lot of machining (such as the wine rack on this project) and will require the pieces to be sanded before being put together.

Figure A: Wine Rack Overview

Figure B: Cabinet Overview

Figure C: Kickplate Overview

Figure D: Shelf Overview

Cutting List

Overall dimensions: 64″w x 44″t x 28″d

* – Before cutting 31.5 angle.
** – 45 miters on both ends.

Remove the bark on the slab

Purchase a flattened live edge slab roughly 1-1/2-inches thick or buy a thicker slab and flatten it yourself with a planner, wide belt sander, or router gantry.

Remove all the bark along the natural edge of your live edge bar top (A). You may find some of the bark is loose, and some of it may be harder to pull off. To remove the bark, use a chisel and enter along the edge of the cadmium layer, which is the innermost part of the bark but not the actual wood. Hammer at the chisel to pry away the bark. Dont worry if it isnt perfect at this point. You will come back and clean it up with a wire wheel and sanding pad later.

• Tip: Avoid cutting bark with your circular saw. It often has dirt and small pebbles embedded in it that will dull or chip the blades when cutting it.

The post How To Build a Bar appeared first on Family Handyman.

A little bit upscale and seriously cozy, boucle furniture is a lovely choice to soften contemporary decor styles. It helps that boucle furniture can be soft and comfortable, too. Learn more about boucle furniture and if it’s right for your home ahead.

What Is Boucle Furniture?

Boucle furniture is upholstered with boucle fabric, a textured material made of looped yarn. The textile is soft, dense, and cozy, often described as having a “nubby” texture.

In part, boucle furniture’s popularity is due to its welcoming and warm appearance, which can add dimension to modern rooms. “Boucle’s cozy, inviting texture complements a range of design aesthetics, particularly mid-century modern, Scandinavian, and minimalist styles,” explains Natane Boudreau, interior designer and founder of Studio Boudreau. “It works well with neutral color palettes and organic shapes, offering a balance between visual interest and understated elegance.”

Traditionally made with wool yarn, fabric options are also more plentiful nowadays, with natural and synthetic boucle available.

What Makes Boucle Furniture Different?

Boucle is one of many textured upholstery fabrics that can add coziness to a piece of furniture. Its “nubbiness” is really what sets it apart. Knobby loops of material make it more textured than smoother fabrics like microfiber, chenille, or velvet. It looks somewhat similar to sherpa and sheepskin fabric, albeit less fluffy, which actually works to its advantage.

Boucle tends to be easier to clean than these plush materials. A major benefit of boucle is that it isn’t prone to matting either, a common complaint with sheepskin or sherpa furniture. This is part of why boucle furniture has a decent reputation for durability, too.

How Much Does Boucle Furniture Cost?

Boucle furniture isn’t cheap, but it’s not eye-wateringly expensive either. Its reputation leans more high-end and luxurious. However, its popularity means it’s available at a reasonable price range as budget retailers try to keep up with trends.

It’s possible to find some boucle sofas under $1000 from retailers like Amazon or Wayfair, but you’ll find a lot more boucle couches in the $1000 to $3000 price range. That’s about the price you can expect from retailers like West Elm, Pottery Barn, Crate & Barrel, and similar stores that sell trendy furniture.

As expected, the smaller the piece of furniture, the lower the price tends to skew. So, a boucle accent chair will often be more affordable than a boucle sofa.

If you want to incorporate the material on a budget, opt for accessories instead, which tend to be the most cost-friendly. Boucle ottomans, poufs, and cushions can come with a lower price tag but still bring that cozy visual interest.

Is Boucle Furniture Easy to Clean?

Boucle is not the easiest to clean, but that doesn’t mean you should shy away from the material. It’s not easy to wipe it down like with leather and vinyl couches. However, it won’t hold onto crumbs and dirt as much as fluffier fabrics. Expect something in between. The fabric is pretty sturdy and vacuuming can help remove debris from the textured weave.

Boucle can be carefully incorporated into homes with children or pets. As Boudreau notes, “While boucle is fairly durable, its textured surface can be challenging to clean, especially in households with young children or pets.” She suggests considering placing boucle furniture in lower-traffic areas or opting for pieces with removable, washable covers.

Pantea Bionki, owner and lead designer at Bionki Interiors echoes the fabric’s durability, and recommends dark colors in dirt- or stain-prone areas. “Boucl’s thicker weave and higher pile make it more durable, so it holds up well over time. Its texture also helps conceal dirt and wear, particularly in darker colors, making it a practical option for everyday use.”

Ease of cleaning can depend on material as well, so shop around according to your needs. Wool is naturally stain-resistant. Nowadays, there are durable synthetic options that are treated to be spill or stain-resistant. Some pieces, like couch and cushion covers, can also be washable.

Is Boucle Furniture Right for My Home?

If boucle furniture really catches your eye, you can find a way to use it in your home. It’s perfect if you’re looking for furniture that’s luxe and modern but also cozy and homey. Bionki notes, “Boucl furniture is an excellent choice for those seeking comfort, texture, and an organic feel in their homes. [It] complements modern and organic design aesthetics, adding an element of softness and warmth to any space.”

Boucle furniture comes in various types and styles. It’s also available in many colors, though neutrals tend to be most popular. Even its texture can vary in its knobbiness, so there are many ways to incorporate it into unique home styles.

Since it’s not the easiest to clean, homes with young children or pets might want to stay away from using boucle furniture in high-traffic areas. In particular, think about how pets might react to the texture. The nubby loops are likely to catch on claws, causing damage to the fabric. It can prove irresistible to some cats, so if you have a furniture scratcher, keep that in mind.

Boucle accessories can be a great alternative to furniture, especially if you love the fabric but don’t want to invest in a furniture piece that kids or pets may damage. You can still make a statement with an affordable boucle cushion, boucle curtains, or a cozy boucle rug.

About the Experts

• Pantea Bionki is the owner and lead designer at Bionki Interiors. As a certified interior designer and home stager, she specializes in creating bespoke interiors, down to the finishing touches.
• Natane Boudreau is an interior designer and the founder of Studio Boudreau, an interior design and creative consulting company that aims to create spaces that are true to people’s authentic selves.

The post What Is Boucle Furniture? The New Trend, and What It Means for Your Home appeared first on Family Handyman.

Plane perfect deck spindles

Nothing jazzes up a rail quicker than custom-planed spindles. And planing rough-cut 2x2s into crisp, clean spindles is a great way to get familiar with your planer. I usually make 2x2s from wider 2×4 or 2×6 lumber. It allows me to get better-looking spindles with crisp, square edges. Rip the boards to about 1-5/8 in. This will allow you to remove the saw marks and still have about a 1-1/2 in. thickness.

Set the planer to remove about 1/32 in. and run a batch of 2x2s through. Reset the planer to remove another 1/32 in. and run them through with the opposite face up. When the width and thickness are the same dimensions, rotate the spindle a quarter turn and plane adjacent faces. Finally, lower the cutters 1/32 in. and plane the remaining two adjacent faces. Remember to stack the spindles consistently so you can keep track of which sides you’ve planed. It helps to mark one face on the end of each spindle as a reference.

The post 6 Tips for Using a Wood Planer Like a Pro appeared first on Family Handyman.

VIA MERCHANT

$129.99 at Amazon

The best overall pocket-hole jig is the tried and true Kreg 720Pro. Kreg is a storied brand working since 1989 to perfect its pocket-hole jigs. While Kreg has been patenting jigs since the 90s, the 720Pro was released in 2021, and after 30 years of development and innovation, we feel it is truly the Cadillac of pocket-hole jigs. The 720Pro comes fully stocked, including the upgraded jig, onboard storage for all drills and accessories, a vacuum adaptor for integrated dust collection, and multiple bonus items, including a clamp, docking stations, free project plans, and 160 Kreg pocket-hole screws.

The jig is lighter than expected, with a solid build constructed with a steel frame and impact-resistant polymer. When testing, I took advantage of the unit’s upgrades, including the anti-slip grip, automatic material thickness setting ability, and vacuum attachment, differentiating it from older models. The automatic thickness measurer was helpful in my specific project when switching between one-by-two boards and plywood, saving me time manually switching my depth.

The thickness measurer works in tandem with the anti-slip grip to ensure the wood for your project stays secure so you can drill the best pocket holes every time. This tool allowed me to complete my project more efficiently while ensuring I had no issues with slipping or sloppy joints. The shelves I built with the 720PRO are the most secure, and I’m excited to use this jig for my future projects.

Item Weight: 7.9 lbs. | Item Dimensions: 13.56 x 9.25 x 6.81 inches | Material Thickness Range: 1/2″ to 1 1/2″ | Material Thickness Setting: Automatic Adjustment with Automaxx | Mobility: Bench-top | Dust Collection: 2 Position Dust Blade

The post 6 Best Pocket-Hole Jigs, Tested and Reviewed by a DIYer appeared first on Family Handyman.

I tend to get frustrated with suction loss from a dirty filter, having to clean my expensive HEPA filters or waiting for my filter replacement to arrive in the mail. With aOneida Dust Deputy, I no longer have frequent issues with suction or restricted airflow. Removing sawdust is as simple as dumping out the trash can! Adding a cyclone separator was an affordable upgrade to my dust collection system, and it saved me money on replacement filters and dust collection bags.

In this review, I’ll show you why I added a Dust Deputy to my workshop, why you should add a cyclone separator to your dust collection system, and the pros and cons of the options available.

What is the Oneida Dust Deputy?

When sawdust enters a cyclone separator, it spins around the funnel until heavy wood chips fall into the collection bin while the fine dust makes its way up to the vacuum filterso the filter works better and longer. The Dust Deputy isn’t a vacuum, and there is no motor. You run a cyclonic dust separator between a tool (like a table saw) and your shop vac. It’s installed between the intake hose and the shop vac or dust collector.

Why add a cyclonic separator to your shop? The biggest reason is that it turns a single-stage dust collector into a two-stage one. With a one-stage system, all the dust and debris runs over the impellers, through the filter and into the collection bag. The impeller gets a lot of wear, and the filter fills up quickly and needs to be cleaned more often.

With a two-stage system, the cyclone separates the dust before it reaches the impeller so only the fine dust goes through the impeller, saving wear on the impeller and filter. The motor lasts longer, too, because the separator filters out larger debris (basically everything except dust particles) so it doesn’t pass through the collector. If you’ve heard that loud “clunk” when a chip hits your expensive impeller, you know that dreaded feeling.

VIA MERCHANT

$119.95 at Amazon

I Tried It

Oneida Air Systems Dust Deputy Deluxe

We tested the new Dust Deputy, and it's now one of our favorite shop tools.

$119.95 at Amazon

Dust Deputy Features

• Patented cyclone separator, which upgrades any make and model wet/dry vacuum into a two-stage dust control system
• Easy to assemble
• Captures and removes up to 99.9% of dust and debris from air before it reaches the vacuum filter
• Neutral vane inlet improves performance by over 20% compared to other cyclones without this feature; this rectangular inlet feature directs the air down into the cyclone and prevents air turbulence at the inlet

How I Tested the Dust Deputy

I have had a Dust Deputy in my shop for over a year, so I’ve been able to use it repeatedly. I can count on it to perform as expected while it extends the life of my dust collector and shop vac. Standard wet/dry vacs rely on small filters that quickly become clogged with dust and debris. Each time you try to clean the filter by tapping or washing it, the fine fiber construction of the filter becomes damaged.

I first used the Dust Deputy to mill lumber, helping control all the sawdust a planer and jointer generate. And don’t even get me started on the table saw!

I also used the Dust Deputy with my shop vac to improve its performance. I eventually upgraded all my filters to HEPA filters, which are more expensive to replace. They are also ultra-delicate. Have you ever sucked up a stray screw with your shop vac? You don’t want that rattling around in your expensive HEPA filter.

Although I still need to clean and replace filters and collection bags occasionally, it’s much less often with the help of the Dust Deputy.

Assembly was straightforward. When putting the components together, don’t use a power drill, as the threads on the inside are plastic and could strip if you use a drill. Attaching the Dust Deputy to the tool and vacuum was simple. The inlet side connects to your tool, and the top hose goes to the shop vac.

There are different types of Dust Deputy cyclone separators. I chose a model under $100 that fit my shop size and needs. A great way to find out which version is best for your shop is to use theproduct selector toolon the Oneida Air Systems website. It will ask what machine you use most for shop cleanup (a shop vac or dust collector) andwhat material you’re collecting (non-abrasive dust like wood and drywall or abrasive dust like sand and gravel). It also asks if you have size constraints, if it needs to fit under a workbench or if there’s plenty of space to go.

Something I learned that wasn’t in the manual is tomake surethe sawdust level in the collection bin stays lower than halfway, or you’ll start to see wood chunks make their way up to the shop vac or dust collector. There must be plenty of room for air to circulate inside the bin.

The lid is pop-on and off, so I learned quickly not to pick it up by the cyclone. While I’d like to carry the Dust Deputy and shop vac together on a cart, I have yet to make one, so my Dust Deputy sits under mymiter saw stationwith the hose clipped in place with theseclamps.

I was pleased to discover that the Dust Deputy is compatible with any make/model machine in my shop. It comes with tapered ports that fit standard 1.5-inch to 2.5-inch hose fittings. It also works with most materials: Wood dust, drywall dust, concrete dust, water, baking flour, grass, pet hairjust to name a few.

I chose the Dust Deputy over making a DIY version because making my own was more fuss than it was worth. The Oneida system comes with a collapse-proof bucket that won’t fold under high vacuum pressure, and the anti-static components significantly reduce the likelihood of static shocks. Clear, see-through plastic components give a real-time view of how much dust the cyclone separates from the air.

Pros

• Captures 99.9% of dust and debris from air
• Prevents metal or other foreign objects from damaging impellor
• Extends life of your machine’s dust filter
• Available in various sizes and configurations
• Anti-static components
• Maintains suction power

Cons

• Lack of portability

FAQ

How do I clean my Oneida filter?

Cleaning the Dust Deputy is as easy as it gets. First, remove the lid from the collection bin, and then dispose of the dust and debris collected in the bin.

What Other Experts and Reviewers Think

“I added the Super Dust Deputy 4/5 to my small studio furniture workshop to save on bag changes and to capture large chips that were getting caught and causing clogs in the main collector. The separation was appealing to help save time dealing with both those issues,” explains Ashley Pieper, woodworker, artist and owner of Shallow Creek Woodcraft.

“Setup and hook up is simple. Emptying the bin is easy and quick,” Ashley explains. “The Dust Deputy takes my collection system to a two stage with better suction at my tools and better air quality in the shop. Overall, it’s a great product that works exactly as advertised, and that is always a plus!” When asked if there were any issues with the Dust Deputy, Ashley said, “This is more of a conditional preference than an issue but a larger collection bin would work better for the amount of milling I do.”

Verified Amazon purchaser, M.W. appreciated the easy installation and has this to say, “Setup is even easier than the instructions indicate. And everything fit perfectly into my old Rigid 5 gal wet/dry vac…Ultimately – I wanted this to save on cleanup. And it tackled this task amazingly well! But more so it keeps ALL the dust out of the air (and subsequently my lungs!). The whole area feels and smells cleaner. And cleanup is now a 1 minute job – instead of the 30+ mins it used to be (AND sawdust doesn’t get literally EVERYWHERE!!). Not to mention: the vacuum bin is spotless!”

Five star Amazon reviewer, R. Marks, writes, “Good for dust control and keeping your vacuum working. It allows a lot of the dust to drop out before being sucked in the main vacuum. Saves time in the shop.”

Oneida Air Systems verified buyer, Andre B., had this to say: “It works for more than just sawdust. I bought this on a chance that it would work on something other than wood saw dust, and it did not disappoint! I do a lot of router work on foam insulation board for Halloween and Christmas yard decorations. Using just a shop vac would clog my filter in a short time. The Dust Deputy has eliminated my filter clogging. This device collects dust so fine that it statically sticks to the insides of bucket. I don’t quite know the physics behind the Dust Deputy, but it works like magic! I would definitely recommend the DD! No more foam insulation dust everywhere!”

Oneida Air Systems vs. DeWalt, Jet and Mullet

If you’re in the market for a cyclone separator, you’ve likely encountered other popular products from big brands, such as theDeWalt Separator,Jet Cyclonic Separatorand the complete systemMullet Cyclone Separator. I chose Oneida Air Systems Dust Deputy because it’s a well-known brand and made in the USA.

There were mixed reviews online for the Jet, with some customer concerns about clogging. I was able to test the DeWalt Separator, and it has standout features that the Dust Deputy doesn’t have, such as the locking clasps on the lid, which make it more secure and easier to open. The lid on the Dust Deputy is a pop top that either takes a couple of tries or needs abucket toolto open it. The DeWalt Separator has excellent hose storage that fits everything snuggly and securely into the collection bin, and the base includes caster wheels.

Final Verdict

While the DeWalt Separator was a strong contender, I felt that the Dust Deputy was made of stronger material. The see-through feature was a must-have, and the separation efficiency was better, as I had more dust and wood chips left in the Dust Deputy collection bin compared to the other brands.

An affordable upgrade to my dust collection system, the Dust Deputy has saved me time and money on expensive replacement filters and dust bags. The simple design can be adapted to any shop vac or dust collector. It also simplifies waste disposal, holding much more dust and debris than what reaches the vacuum.

Where to Buy the Oneida Dust Deputy

VIA MERCHANT

$119.95 at Amazon

I Tried It

Oneida Air Systems Dust Deputy Deluxe

Our favorite wet/dry vac for all your shop cleaning needs.

$119.95 at Amazon

You can buy the Dust Deputy Deluxe fromAmazonfor a list price of about $120. Numerous Dust Deputy kits in various sizes and configurations to suit different vacuum setups and dust collection needs, ranging in price from around $40 to a stainless steel model for about $1,500, are also available onAmazon. They even have a cyclonic separator just forFestool vacuums.

The post Oneida Dust Deputy Review: Tested by a Professional Woodworker appeared first on Family Handyman.

Making a room divider from scratch is a wonderful way to create something completely personalizedtoa specific room.Shape, color,dimensions all customized by you.

You can make aDIY room divideras simple or complicated as you wantit to be. The only element required is creativity. Functionality is inherent in the project. The base design is made up of three sections of wood joined by hinges. If you want your organizer to be extra special, you canadd legs and a frame. If youreallywant to take your room divider to another level, you can further consider adding things like pegs, paint, or fabric.

Take the basic steps I share here and make it all your own. I hate to sound clich, but the possibilities are truly endless.

Cutting List

* – cut to fit

Cut the plywood

Using atable saw, cut the three plywood panels (A–C) out of your sheet of 1/2-in. plywood. Feel free to changeupthe dimensions and size to fit your space. I wanted to play with the dimensions by varying the height to make the piece more interesting and optimize the yield in my sheet of plywood.

The post How to Make a DIY Room Divider appeared first on Family Handyman.

For more from Mr. Build It

Mr. Build Itcan be found on theAt Home With Family Handymanstreaming channel.At Homeis streaming now onSamsung TV Plus,XUMO,The Roku Channel,LG Channels,Plex,fuboTV,Sling Free, and theFamily Handyman app. Its also available oniOS, Apple TV,Android, AndroidTV, FireTV andRoku devices.

Trim the lumber

Using a table saw, trim 1/8 inch from both sides of the 2x6s and 2x8s. This will make smooth edges for gluing.

The post How To Build Modern Barn Doors for Your Home appeared first on Family Handyman.

“The most common misconception about these products is that they are interchangeable,” says Brandon Walker, Superintendent at ASAP Restoration. “Choosing between polyacrylic and polyurethane for a project depends on various factors, such as the type of surface, the desired finish characteristics and color, the ultimate application method, environmental considerations and even personal preferences.”

We ultimately went with polycrylic for the loveseat and rocking chair, but here’s how to determine which is best for your project.

What is Polycrylic?

Polycrylic is a water-based finish used to protect wood, metal and concrete surfaces. It comes in liquid and aerosol forms and is generally viewed as less toxic than oil-based polyurethane for both people and the environment.

“Polycrylic finishes provide a durable and protective layer that helps to enhance the appearance of the underlying material by adding depth, richness and a glossy or satin sheen,” says Walker. “They are often used as an alternative to traditional oil-based varnishes or lacquers because they dry faster, have lower odor and are easier to clean up with water.”

How Many Coats of Polycrylic Do You Need?

Two to three coats, depending on the amount of wear and tear the surface will receive. “More coats means more protection against the effects of the elements,” says Walker.

How Much Does Polycrylic Cost?

Between $10 and $30 per quart, depending on the brand and quantity purchased. For a baseline, Minwax’s polycyclic stain is $24.48 per quart at Lowe’s. “Larger quantities can bring down the price, but special formulations can increase it,” says Walker. “There is also a wide range of prices in store vs. online and on sale vs. off the shelf.”

Polycrylic Pros and Cons

Pros

• Low odor
• Low volatile organic compounds (VOC)
• Easy water-and-soap cleanup
• Clear finish amplifies natural look
• No ambering over time
• Best for cooler color stains
• Fast drying for quick project turnaround.

Cons

• No warm, amber look
• Less protection from scratches, moisture and chemicals than polyurethane

What is Polyurethane?

Polyurethane is a protective finish for wood made from synthetic resins. It comes as either an oil-based or water-based stain. “It offers excellent durability and protection for whatever it is being applied to, and it will last for years to decades in the right conditions,” says Walker.

Oil-based polyurethane finishes usually take longer to dry and leave a slight amber or yellow tint on the surface, whereas water-based polyurethane has fewer VOCs and usually dries faster.

How Many Coats of Polyurethane Do You Need?

Two to three coats. Oil-based polyurethane generally requires fewer coats than water-based for total protection and its protection lasts longer.

How Much Does Polyurethane Cost?

Again, it depends on the brand and quantity you’re purchasing, but for a ballpark, Minwax’s polyurethane stain runs $16.48 a quart at Lowes. “Water-based polyurethane is typically more expensive than oil-based,” says Walker. “It will also likely require more coats, which will not last as long and require additional applications. So water-based is not only more expensive in the short term, but the long term as well.”

Polyurethane Pros and Cons

Pros

• Durable, with excellent moisture, chemical and abrasion resistance
• Easy to apply
• Best for warm color stains

Cons

• Ambers over time
• Not suitable for cooler color stains
• Higher in VOCs (especially oil-based)
• Harder to clean up (especially oil-based)
• Harder on the environment (especially oil-based)
• Highly flammable

Polycrylic vs. Polyurethane: Which is Right for My Project?

Polyurethane is best for projects that need long-lasting durability, while polycrylic is easier to work with and safer, especially if your workspace is poorly ventilated, says Jay Sanders, owner of Castle Dream Construction. “Polyurethane is very toxic. It has twice the VOC content of polycrylic,” he says.

Walker says that for most projects polycrylic is a good choice. “Lots of the time, choosing between these two options will also come down to which one you prefer working with, as the results are very similar, and most people will have trouble telling the difference between them once everything is dry,” he says.

Whichever you choose, sand between coats to create a smoother surface on the finished project, says Walker.

Polycrylic vs. Polyurethane: Which is more food-safe?

Neither are rated as food safe, according to Sharad Gaurav, Senior Product Manager for Minwax Clear products. However, both are commonly considered non-toxic once they’ve fully cured.

Polycrylic vs. Polyurethane: Which is more waterproof?

Neither is rated as waterproof, but they are both moisture-resistant. “Both are waterproof in the short-term, but over longer timelines, polycrylic and water-based polyurethane will degrade faster than an oil-based polyurethane formulation,” says Walker.

Polycrylic vs. Polyurethane: Which costs less?

Since the cost of both is similar, which to choose shouldn’t come down to price, but rather which is a better fit for the project at hand.

Polycrylic vs. Polyurethane: Which lasts longer?

It depends on its exposure to moisture, chemicals, abrasions and other wear and tear factors, but, generally, oil-based polyurethane lasts the longest.

FAQs

Can you paint over polycrylic and/or polyurethane?

Walker has had success painting over both, so long as they are prepped with a thorough cleaning and a slight sanding. However, Gaurav recommends against it, since both are considered topcoats. “The top coat can be applied over paint, but the user needs to test before application as polyurethane is an oil-based product that will amber over time,” Gaurav says.

Can you put polyurethane over polycrylic (and vice versa)?

Neither Walker nor Gaurav recommends doing so. “There may be issues with adhesion, chemical mixing, chemical degradation and long-term durability of both products,” says Gaurav.

Can you spray polycrylic and/or polyurethane?

Yes, but Gaurav recommends against it. “Pros may be able to thin the product [in order to spray it, but] DIYers should be more careful.” Instead, opt for the aerosol versions of either product.

Are there safety concerns with polycrylic and polyurethane?

Whichever you use, make sure your work area is well-ventilated to avoid inhaling VOC toxins and wear protective clothing. It’s also recommended to wear a respirator, especially with polyurethane. Do not use near ignition sources, and store in cool, dry areas away from children.

About the Experts

• Brandon Walker is Superintendent at ASAP Restoration in Tempe, Arizona. He has been a professional painter for more than 20 years and dubbed a “paint nerd” by his colleagues.
• Sharad Gaurav is Senior Product Manager for Minwax Clear products, where he’s worked for a decade.
• Jay Sanders is a licensed contractor and owner of two Baltimore-based businesses: Maryland Contractors home remodeling specialists and Castle Dream Construction deck building specialists.

The post Polycrylic vs. Polyurethane: Which Should You Use? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Stabilize Longer Boards

Here’s a great way to hold boards for routing and planing with ne’er a worry that they’ll slide around or flop over as you work. Clamp two handscrews to a sawhorse or tabletop so their jaws are lined up. Slide the workpiece into the jaws and tighten the handscrews.

Medium-size handscrews have 5/8 in. of usable jaw surface above the screws, so they grip the board like two long-jawed vises. This tip is especially useful when routing molding profiles on narrow boards. You can also screw the handscrews to a piece of 3/4-in plywood on your shop floor and use them to hold doors for edge-planing.

The post 28 Secret and Unique Clamping Tricks from Woodworkers appeared first on Family Handyman.

Best Plywood Options

Building furniture and cabinets is an investment of both time and money. So when youre buying plywood for these projects, shop wisely. Your choices will have a huge impact on the building process and the results. We’llhelp you decide exactly what you need and help you avoid common plywood pitfalls.

Plus, if you’ve been neglecting your garage, it’s time to pay attention and give that hard-working space the makeover it deserves.

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ERIN LAW PHOTOGRAPHY/COURTESY CATHY HARMS

$161.97 at Home Depot

$120.99 at Amazon

If you’re looking for a shop vacuum that can support big messes, the Ridgid Wet/Dry Vac should be your first choice. Ridgid has been a leading manufacturer of shop vacs for years, and this model is an excellent example of why this brand is so popular. Combining powerful suction power, durability, lightweight design, and well-designed accessory storage, this 16-gallon model checks all the boxes and is large enough to handle a full day of debris cleanup without being emptied.

Built with a 6.5 horsepower motor, this particular vac is made for heavy-duty projects. A pleated cartridge filter comes with this model and is excellent at capturing general debris, but I recommend replacing the stock filter with a HEPA filter and dust collection bag.

There’s an accessory storage rack along the back and additional storage over the rear wheels. The accessories allow me to get in-between and under car seats to suck up everythingCheerios, puzzle pieces, sand, LEGOS, you name it, it’s under there. When paired with a Dust Deputy Cyclone Separator or DeWalt Separator, the Rigid wet/dry vacuum turns into a high-capacity, two-stage dust collection system, and with a large drum size, can capture a day’s worth of debris from the table saw or planer.

The Ridgid has easily accessible cord storage where I can quickly wrap the 20-foot cord out of the way, which is essential in a smaller workshop where space is at a premium. With a height of about 25 inches, this 16-gallon vac is tall enough to grab the top and side handles without bending over too far and makes it easier to push around corners and doorways without banging into walls. It sucked up two gallons of water in just five seconds and took four seconds to handle a mess of cat litter and screws.

The post The 9 Best Dust Collector Machines for Woodworking, Tested and Reviewed appeared first on Family Handyman.

Bob Puetz started woodturning when he was 10. He stood on a peach crate in his dad’s shop to reach a good quality lathe. He learned from his dad, a farmer known for having lots of quality tools. “My first project with the lathe was a lamp of walnut from grandpa’s farm,” says Puetz, from East Bethel, Minnesota.

Jacobs, Puetz and Dan Larson are longtime members of the Minnesota Woodturners Association (MWA). They offer these 10 tips to beginners who want to get off on the right foot.

Take a Class

Do an online search of woodturning classes and plenty of choices will pop up. You’ll find out if you like the realities of woodturning turning itself, the tools, the lathe, the wood, the dust versus what you imagined.

“You won’t waste money buying tools you won’t use,” says Larson, from Little Canada, Minnesota. “You’ll discover the type of turning you like. Some people like turning bowls, and others like making spindles, which require different tools.”

Find a Community

Taking a class takes you to woodturning communities. Join one. It helps you save money on tools, lathes and wood, as well as learn techniques from fellow members. Sometimes members give away or sell at a discount tools and equipment they no longer use.

Search online to find a community. Start with the American Association of Woodturners, which has 365 worldwide chapters.

Find a Mentor

Many members of your woodturning community will gladly take you on as a student. Jacobs, Puetz and Larson are my mentors and go-to guys for answering countless questions about those devilish details of my woodturning projects.

Buy the Best Tools But Not a Whole Set

The additional cost of an excellent tool is forgotten over its long life and excellent results. Keep that in mind that if you decide to quit woodturning.

“You can sellwoodturning tools a whole lot easier than cheap tools, which are often made of cheap steel or have bad handles,” says Jacobs. “Also, don’t buy a whole set of woodturning tools. There may be eight in that set, and you end up using two or three, depending on the type of turning you do.”

Go Slow With Purchases

You can be overwhelmed by the cost of the tools, lathes, saws, sharpening equipment, shop supplies, wood, etc. You may want it all, but pump the brakes.

“For $1,000 sometimes less you can get set up pretty well,” says Jacobs. “There are a lot more hobbies that are a lot more expensive. This is cheaper than owning a boat. Turning has been around thousands of years, and back then turners didn’t have fancy lathes and expensive tools.”

Know Your Lathe

Read every page of the manual. Before you turn anything, learn how each part works.

“Most important, know where the off button is,” says Larson. “Also, make sure your lathe is bolted on a flat surface so there are no vibrations or wobbling when it’s running.”

Protect Yourself

Guard your lungs with a high-quality facemask and, optimally, an air-filtration system. Wear a face shield.

“When you turn, wood chips are flying all over the place, or you could hit a knot or a nail that could fly,” says Larson. “Protect your eyes and face.

“Also, save stressing your hands and arms by using your whole body. Brace the tool handle against your body and move whenever you can. This woodturning dance prevents using a death grip on your tool.”

Have a Dedicated Space for Woodturning

Puetz says some MWA members have a 4-ft. by 4-ft. basement woodturning space enclosed by plastic or shower curtains. Also, have a nearby bench and good lighting.

Puetz hangs a welding curtain in his garage and pulls it out of the way when not turning. He jokes that the best advice for setting up a shop is to talk it over with your spouse, because woodturning makes lots of dust!

Don’t Use Exotic Woods When Learning

Exotic wood is more expensive and often more difficult to turn than more common birch, box elder and soft maple. “While they are pretty, some exotic woods from Africa and South America are hard, which can frustrate beginners,” says Larson. “Hickory and honey locust are also hard woods.”

Listen to the Wood

When turning is going well, your shop is quiet except for a steady, reassuring hiss of the tool shaving wood. If you hear knocking or feel vibrations, pay attention and make changes to get back to the hiss.

“Use your senses not only for technique but also for artistic design,” says Larson. “You may have a design in mind, but you should follow the lead of the wood.

“Pay attention to what the wood wants to be. If you don’t, you may have beautiful feathering in the wood that you cut right through because it doesn’t fit your plan. And then you end up with a plain bowl. But if you notice the feathering and turn the workpiece upside down, you have a beautiful bowl.”

The post Woodturning Basics: Tips for Beginners appeared first on Family Handyman.

Wood Movement

Wood moves as its moisture content changes. When humidity is high, wood absorbs moisture and swells. When humidity drops, wood shrinks. The movement is gradual, but it can cause big problems in your woodworking projects.

The post 10 Woodworking Basics You Should’ve Learned in Shop Class appeared first on Family Handyman.

Best Overall Cordless Brad Nailer

DeWalt 18-Gauge Brad Nailer

If youre looking for an alternative to your cumbersome pneumatic nailer and compressor, look no further. A contractor favorite, the DeWalt 18-gauge cordless brad nailer, features a brushless motor and is compatible with other DeWalt tools with 20-volt batteries. This straight shooter drives nails from 5/8 inches to 2 1/8 inches. The micro nose improves sight lines and ensures a precision hit while the tool-free jam release and depth adjustment dial make quick work of your job. The intuitive design of the low-nail lockout prevents dry firing and the nails are clearly visible in the cartridge. Plus, the DeWalt has onboard lights to indicate low battery or jams.

The Dewalt is capable of single fire or sequential bump fire with the flip of a switch. This finish nailer drove 2-inch brads consistently into solid oak and worked perfectly in our testing. This 18-gauge model weighs in at 10.25 pounds, so its heavier than most, but if youre after long-lasting performance and trouble-free operation, the DeWalt delivers. This best-in-class option comes highly recommended by professionals and DIYers alike.

The tool, charger, battery and branded carrying bag are included in this kit, but the tool is also sold separately if you already own the DeWalt 20-volt battery and charger.

Pros

• Non-marring micro tip for flawless precision
• Drive depth adjustment
• Tool-free jam release
• Low-nail lockout
• Sequential firing option
• Three-year limited warranty

Cons

• Heavier than others at 10.25 pounds

$349 at Home Depot

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Nicholson Molding Plane

Francis Nicholson is America’s first documented planemaker. It’s believed he was the first planemaker to imprint his name on the tools he created. Nicholson lived from 1683-1753 and this wooden plane he designed and built sold for $5,140 at auction.

The post 20 Antique Woodworking Tools That Are Worth Big Bucks appeared first on Family Handyman.

Width movement is the main issue

Wood moves as its moisture content changes. Wood doesnt move much lengthwise, so you dont have to worry a lot about boards getting shorter. But a board can move quite a bit across its width. A board thats 6 in. wide during a humid summer might shrink by 1/32 in. in winter. Thats not much, but its enough to cause a crack in a tabletop or gaps between floorboards.

Movement is caused by moisture content

When wet wood dries, it shrinks. The amount of movement is determined by the type of wood and the degree of change in its moisture content. Applying a sealer or paint can moderate wood movement. But its nearly impossible to seal wood so completely that its moisture content stays constant.

Wood can also change shape

Movement within a board isnt uniform; one section might move more than another. That leads to warping, twisting and cupping. Most of these changes happen in the initial drying phase, but wood can change shape later, too.

Vertical grain is more stable

Inspecting the grain pattern on the end of a board will reveal whether the board has vertical grain or flat grain. A flat-grain board will move about twice as much as a vertical-grain board with the same change in moisture content. But because cutting quarter-sawn lumber is much less efficient, vertical-grain boards are expensive and can be hard to find.

How a board is cut from the log also affects how much it moves. Quarter-sawing yields vertical grain boards, while plain-sawn boards have flat grain.

How to Tame Wood Movement

You cant keep wood from moving, but these tips and strategies can help you avoid problems.

Avoid miters outdoors

Miter joints hide end grain and look more refined. But the effect is ruined when the miters dont meet tightly. Huge changes in humidity, and wetting and drying from rain and sun, cause wood to move more outdoors than it would indoors.

So whereas a miter joint will look good for decades indoors, it may start to look really bad after only one season outdoors. Thats why its usually better to avoid miters outdoors whenever possible. Use a butt joint instead.

Plan for deck board movement

Deck boards can shrink or expand after theyre installed, depending on how much moisture they contained when you fastened them down. To allow for this, space wet treated boards with a 16d nail (1/8 in.) and dry boards such as cedar decking with a carpenters pencil (5/16 in.).

Allow expansion space for wood floors

If youre installing an engineered wood floor, follow the instructions carefullythey include all the information you need about spacing. In general, floating wood floors that arent nailed or glued down require about a 1/2-in. space around the perimeter and enough clearance at thresholds, doorjambs and other obstructions to allow movement. Solid wood floors also require at least a 1/2 in.-wide expansion space around the perimeter.

Let tabletops float

One of the most common errors that beginning woodworkers make is to securely fasten wood tabletops to the underlying frame. Tabletops tend to be wide, and wood moves a lot across its width.

Restricting the movement with screws or nails can cause the top to crack as it shrinks. To avoid this, use special tabletop fasteners or some other method that holds the top down but still allows the top to expand and contract.

Let wood acclimate

Since the relative humidity of your indoor space may be quite different from the humidity where your trim or flooring was stored, you should always allow time for the material to acclimate. The wider and thicker the trim or flooring boards are, the longer you should leave them in the space before installation.

Thin, narrow trim may only take a day or two to reach equilibrium with the rooms relative humidity. Wide or thick boards should be left in the room for at least four days before you install them. Of course the trim or flooring will still move a little after its installed, but at least most of the change will have occurred beforehand.

Avoid wide boards

Of course there are times when you have to use a wide board or you want to use one because it looks better. But always be aware that movement in wide boards, whether its cupping, twisting or something else, will be more pronounced than in two or more narrower boards. Gluing several narrow boards together will result in a more stable tabletop than gluing two wide boards together.

Manufactured wood holds paint better

If youre planning to paint an exterior project, consider building it from a manufactured product rather than solid wood. Wood movement requires the paint to flex constantly, and eventually the paint cracks and peels. Manufactured wood substitutes from companies like Louisiana-Pacific, AZEK or James Hardie are more stable than solid wood. And because these products move less, they provide a better surface for paint.

Pre-finish tongue-and-groove

As tongue-and-groove boards expand and contract, the spaces between them change a little. If you dont pre-finish the boards, youll see exposed raw wood on the tongue when the boards shrink. But finishing the boards before you install them will solve this problem. Just be careful to avoid a buildup of finish in the groove; it could make the boards hard to fit together.

Dont fill cracks on wood floors

If you have wood floors, especially old ones, you probably have some cracks between the boards. Its tempting to try to hide the cracks with wood filler, but its not a good idea. As the floorboards expand and contract, the filler will crack and fall out, leaving you with an unsightly mess thats hard to fix.

Let parts warp before assembly

When you go to all the trouble to build cabinet doors, you want to make sure they arent going to warp or twist after assembly. One way to prevent this is to cut your parts then stack them with spacer boards (stickers), and let them acclimate for about 24 hours before building the doors. Be sure to cut extra parts so you can replace any boards that warp.

Extra Credit

Substitute sheets for boards

As youre planning your next woodworking project, dont assume it has to be built entirely from boards. Veneered sheets of plywood and MDF are more stable and are a good alternative to solid lumber. These veneered sheets are less likely to bow or cup, and wont crack like lumber.

Choices at home centers are usually limited to oak, birch or maple veneers. If youre looking for something else, such as cherry or walnut, check with a local hardwood lumber supplier or a full-service lumberyard.

Sticking doors

Sticking and rubbing doors are a common problem caused by wood movement. High humidity is usually the culprit, so some problems can be avoided or solved by keeping the humidity levels in your house low. But when this isnt practical, youll have to resort to solutions like tightening door hinge screws or planing or sanding the door edge.

The post Wood Movement 101: How It Works and How to Control It appeared first on Family Handyman.

Simple cuts and a no-hassle glue-and-screw assembly technique make this swing a great first-time woodworking project. We designed the swing with a unique suspension system made from 1/2-in. galvanized steel pipe slipped through the swing frame to act as a cradle and eliminate stress on wood joints. We then fastened eye bolts through the steel pipe and covered the pipe ends with soft rubber caps to prevent scrapes. Welded steel chain supports the swing assembly, securely fastened to solid framing in the roof of your front porch, pergola or pavilion.

When selecting a wood for this outdoor project, stay away from cedar, redwood and soft pine. Theyll mar easily and they wont hold screws as well as other, denser woods. Instead, go with fir, southern yellow pine, cypress, poplar, white oak or maple. Oak and maple are harder to cut, sand, drill and screw, so avoid them if youre a first-timer. We chose poplar because its strong, readily available, easy to work with and takes paint well.

Figure A

Overall Dimensions: 39″T X 51-5/8″W X 29-1/2″D

Cutting List

Cut slats

Using a table saw, make eight 13s by ripping four 16 boards to 2-11/16 in. Cut the boards to length for the seat (N) and back slats (J). Mark a diagonal taper onto a 13. Use a jigsaw to cut along the line, making the two outer slats (K). Use a block plane to smooth the cut edges.

The post How to Build a Porch Swing appeared first on Family Handyman.

Whether you need extra storage in your kid’s bedroom closet or your entryway, a cube cubby storage system is an easy solution that looks great. I added rattan to the back for a customized look that screams boho. I also love using natural elements in my decor, and rattan is a great way to do just that.

Project Overview

Cutting List

Safety Considerations

During the cutting, sanding, nailing and finishing of the wood components for this project, make sure to wear appropriate eye, ear and dust protection.

Cut wood pieces and lay out rattan

Cut the wood pieces and trim from the cutting list above using a miter saw. Take your time at the home center to select straight lumber that’s free of large knots or cracks in crucial locations.

For the rattan, it needs to cover at least 26-1/4-in. by 38-1/4-in. It’s unlikely you’ll find these exact measurements. I had to purchase two pieces of rattan and cut them to fit each side of the cubby. When working with two pieces of rattan, you need the seam to align so you can hide it behind a shelf or divider, which can be challenging.

The post How To Build Cubby Storage Shelves appeared first on Family Handyman.

Obviously, the plywood you use to make a custom cabinet must be a higher grade than what you use for roof sheathing. But what does the lumber industry mean by “grade,” what are the different grades, and what are they used for?

“Plywood is graded through four main levels, A, B, C and D,” says Josh Kou, a lumber pro with a lifelong interest in hardwood.

Grade A is the top grade, and it’s perfect for cabinetry and furniture making. Grade D is at the bottom of the scale. According to Artem Kropovinsky, an interior designer with more than a decade of experience, Grade D is “used for structural purposes where the surface will be hidden.”

Intermediate grades are suitable for some cabinetry projects (mostly Grade B) and other utility purposes (Grade C).

Here’s the lowdown on plywood grading to help you choose the right material for your project.

About the Experts

Josh Kou is a second-generation lumber pro who traveled extensively through Asia learning woodworking techniques. He’s the operations manager for NorthCastle Hardwoods.

Artem Kropovinsky is an interior and cabinet designer and the founder of NYC-based Arsight. His designs have been featured in Architectural Digest, The New York Times, Forbes, Business Insider and Domino. He has extensive knowledge of plywood and its uses.

What Is Plywood?

Slice wood from a tree trunk in thin layers, glue them together in alternating directions, and you’ve got plywood.

“Almost all plywood in the U.S. is made from either Douglas fir or western larch, both of which are softwoods,” says Kou. “However, Grade A plywood is often finished with a hardwood veneer. It is an affordable and sustainable way to present hardwood.”

Plywood comes in sheets measuring four by eight feet (1,220 x 2,440 millimeters), in thicknesses ranging from 1/4-in. (6-mm) to 1-3/16-in. (30-mm).

Because wood layers are glued in cross directions, plywood is more stable than solid wood and rarely warps or buckles. This makes it a good alternative to solid wood for construction and cabinetry, and often the preferred material.

What does RTD stand for on plywood?

RTD stands for “Resistance Temperature Detector.” Manufacturers monitor the temperatures of each layer during production of RTD plywood, ensuring a more reliable glue bond and a better-wearing final product.

What is marine grade plywood?

A product where manufacturers use a waterproof adhesives and wood preservatives to make highly moisture-resistant sheets. The veneer may be a hardwood or softwood, and it must be free from defects.

As the name suggests, boat builders use this type of plywood. Contractors like it for sheathing and subfloors in areas subject to excessive moisture.

What is exterior grade plywood?

Identified by the rating X, this product is also moisture-resistant. But manufacturers use lower-grade adhesives to produce it, and the softwood veneer may have knots and other defects.

Plywood Grades Explained

The four plywood grades are as follows:

• Grade A: “This is top-tier,” says Kropovinsky, “with a smooth, sanded surface free of knots. Ideal for visible surfaces in cabinetry or furniture.”
• Grade B: Slightly lower quality than Grade A. Grade B may have minor blemishes but still offers a good, smooth surface for painting or veneering. “It’s not top drawer,” says Kou, “but it’s perfectly serviceable.”
• Grade C: This grade comes with noticeable defects and knots up to 1-1/2-inches. According to Kropovinsky, it’s suitable for structures that require strength but don’t have to look good.
• Grade D: The lowest grade, with knots and defects up to 2-1/2-inches. Grade D is generally used for structural purposes where the surface will be hidden. Kou recommends Grade D when “it doesn’t matter what it looks like as long as it can roll with the punches and take a beating in transit.”

Plywood sub-grades

Both sides of a sheet don’t always have to be the same quality, because in many applications only one side is visible. Here’s Kou’s rundown of uses for the most common sub-grades:

• AA: Sanded and defect-free on both sides and suitable for interior work, like furniture, cabinetry and any other application where a good finish is required.
• AAX (AA Exterior): Use for sign boards, boxing, boats and any other exterior use where a high level of finish is required to both faces of a panel.
• AB: Perfect when only one side of the finished product needs to have a top-quality finish. Sometimes used in cabinetry as drawer bases with the A-graded side face up. This is my most common choice for a cabinet material.
• ACX: Perfect for areas exposed to high levels of moisture where a smooth surface is required for practical, or cosmetic reasons. ACX is most commonly found in soffits under your roofline, in truck and boxcar linings, farm buildings and commercial refrigerators.
• BB: A standard utility grade for everyday internal use that can be paint-finished. You’ll find a few minor repairs to the face using patches or wood filler and a few tight knots. I’ve made perfectly serviceable cabinets and furniture from this stuff.
• BBX: A good solid workaday board ideal for many external applications like shed and barn walls. There’s a pre-oiled version for concrete forms that can be cleaned and reused.
• BCX and BDX: These make good truck linings and tanks, and builders use it as a base for exterior coatings. Great as utility panels for industrial shelving where a decent top finish is required, or as bins where an interior finish is not important.
• CC: This is tough stuff. It’s used for flooring in boxcars, trucks, external decking, balconies, cable reels, shipping pallets and other utility applications.
• CDX: This is the most common roofing and exterior sheathing material. “It’s suitable for exterior use due to the adhesive used in its manufacture,” says Kropovinsky. The C side typically faces out.

What’s the best grade of plywood?

For quality, AA, but it really depends on the use. If you’re doing outdoor building, AAX, ACX and BCX are preferable.

What’s the most expensive plywood?

Again, that’s AA. A single 4- by 8-ft. sheet of 3/4-in. maple-faced plywood, sanded on both sides, costs almost $90. By contrast, a 3/4-in. sheet of utility-grade CDX plywood costs less than $60.

What is cabinet grade plywood?

For clear finishing, any plywood with one A-grade face is suitable for cabinets. For painting or veneering, you need at least one B-grade face.

What is furniture grade plywood?

Same answer. You need at least one A-grade face for clear finishing and one B-grade for paint or veneer. For exterior furniture, use AAX, ACX or BCX.

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What Is a Random Orbital Sander?

Also know as a random orbit sander, it’s easily one of the most useful tools in any DIYer’s collection, it’s a handheld power tool that rotates and vibrates randomly, in overlapping circles, so that it doesn’t leave a grind pattern in the surface of the wood you’re sanding.

Random orbital sanders work far more aggressively and quickly than orbital finishing sanders. The circular bases spin at about 10,000 rpm while wiggling about 1/8 in. off center at the same time. This creates a truly random sanding pattern, which removes wood quickly and minimizes swirl marks. This speedy randomness also allows you to smooth joints where the rails and stiles of your cabinets meet at right angles.

Note, random orbital sanders are different than palm sanders. Sometimes called quarter-sheet sanders because of the size of the sandpaper sheet it uses, palm sanders are smaller and feature a square pad that can fit into corners where a round sander can’t go. They’re best used for light duty sanding work, touch-ups and getting into tight corners.

Why Not Use an Orbital Finishing Sander?

All in all, theres really nothing wrong with square-based, orbital finishing sanders. They vibrate the sandpaper in thousands of little orbits. Theyre easy to control and theyre inexpensive to operate, since they use standard sandpaper in one-sixth, one-quarter, one-third or half sheets.

Orbital finishing sanders can leave small spiral swirls on wood if youre not meticulous, but by sanding down through 180-grit, you can avoid this. But random orbital sanders take things a step further.

Many woodworkers find they only need to go down to 100- to 120-grit paper with their random orbital sander for surfaces that will be painted or receive a clear finish. (For surfaces that are to be stained, consider a light hand-sanding with the grain to remove any and all remaining swirl marks.) But beware, the aggressiveness of a random orbital sander can cut through a veneer or damage the edge of a board in a flash. It takes a few tries to learn how to control them.

Also, at a buck a sheet, the adhesive or Velcro-backed sandpaper discs are spendy, but youll work faster and wind up with better-looking cabinets.

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Biscuit Joinery Without a Biscuit Joiner

If you want to make biscuit joints, you don’t have to buy a biscuit joiner. In most cases, a wood router with a 5/32-in. slot bit can cut perfect slots to fit the biscuits. Here’s how to do it:

Mark the biscuit positions on both adjoining boards as you would with a biscuit joiner. Then cut a slot that’s about 1/2-in. longer than the biscuit. On thick boards, you don’t even have to mark out anything; just cut one quick, continuous slot on each board. Add glue and biscuits, then clamp it to create a strong joint.

There are two situations where a router can’t substitute for a biscuit joiner. A wood router can cut slots only along the edges of a board, not across its face. And it can only cut along square edges, not beveled ones.

Most slot cutters cut about 1/2-in. deep, which suits No. 20 biscuits. If you want to use smaller biscuits, buy a kit that includes three bearing sizes for No. 0, No. 10 and No. 20 biscuits.

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Cutting List

Cut the plywood

• Follow the cutting diagram and cut the plywood parts on the table saw.
• Cut a 15-degree angle on one edge of both top caps (E).

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With the proper skill and accessories, you can also use power planers for finesse work like beveling door edges, scribing cabinets and countertops, and shaping and tapering wood trim. Well show you five common applications, plus tell you how to use, maintain and work safely with this unique, versatile tool.

How To Use a Handheld Electric Planer

Like a hand plane, the power hand planer (or electric planer) rides on a shoe, or sole plate (Fig. A). Like a jointer, the planer has blades mounted on a cutter head or drum that spins at 20,000 rpm, removing wood equal to the difference in elevation between the front and rear shoes.

The front hand grip doubles as a depth-adjustment gauge. The gauge, with its built-in scale settings, turns back and forth to move the front planer shoe up or down, setting the depth of the cut. Depending on the depth you set, the planer removes lots of wood (1/8 in. per pass) or, like a belt sander, a little (1/64 in.).

Get the most out of the tool by mastering the right way to hold and push the planer. Properly balancing your body ensures safety and the best planning results.

Balance means standing with your feet apart in a position that youll find comfortable throughout the full tool pass on the workpiece. Each pass of the planer involves a rhythm of balance and hand pressure:

• Begin by resting the front shoe of the planer flat on the wood without letting the blade touch the work.
• Start the tool, let the motor reach full speed,thenease the plane into contact with the work and push it steadily forward.
• Keep your initial pressure on the front grip as the planer enters the workpiece.
• Balance hand pressure between the tool handle and front knob as both planer soles contact the work.
• As you push the tool off the work, apply greater control to catch the rear handle. Avoid overreaching at the end of a pass; the front shoe will drop off the wood and let the blades take an uneven bite off the end of the wood (called snipe).

The speed at which you push the tool and the depth setting you choose will affect the final smoothness of your work. For power-shaving dimensional lumber, bites of 1/8 in. per pass are OK. To obtain the smoothest results when youre edge-planing hardwood boards, use a 1/64-in. or 1/32-in. depth setting, push the tool slowly and make more passes.

How an electric planer works

Two carbide blades spinning on a cutter head are the heart of a power planer. Using the depth adjustment knob, control the bite of your blades by raising or lowering the movable front sole plate (or shoe).

Electric Planer Blades

Some power planers have two full-sized blades that must be resharpened using a whetstone. However, most planers use two double-edged, carbide, disposable mini blades. Many planers come with plastic gauge bases that help correctly position both the mini blades and the set plate for mounting on the drum.

Change blades when they become dull or nicked. Nicked blades leave a groove in the smoothed wood. Before changing the blade, always unplug the power planer and read your tools instructions carefully.

Other tips about blade replacement:

• Unplug the power planer before you change blades or make any repairs and adjustments to the tool.
• Change blades before they get so dull that they create smoke or fine powder as you plow through the work. Forcing the planer like this harms the motor.
• Resharpen or replace both blades at the same time. This maintains cutter head balance and ensures quality cuts.
• Blades that arent mounted squarely on the cutter head cause the tool to vibrate. Double-check mounting bolts for tightness before running the planer.

Electric Planer Safety

As with all power tools, protect your eyes and hearing by wearing appropriate safety gear.

After turning the tool off, protect yourself and the workand the bladesby setting the front shoe of the hand planer up on a wood block while the spinning cutter head stops.

Work safely above your head by placing walk planks between two ladders, in line with the direction youll be making your cuts.

Once your neighbors spot the speed and ease with which you use your hand planer, watch out! Youll need a sign-out sheet to keep track of all the borrowers.

TK Ways to Use an Electric Planer

Shave low spots in floor joists

Level floor joists by using a straightedge to mark joist irregularities. Then label the low spots, set up a stable work platform and shave those spots till the joists are flatready for a new ceiling. The adjustable chip deflector is a valuable accessory for directing the stream of chips away from your face.

Plane post corners

Shape deck post edges quickly. First center the V-notch in the front shoe on the timber corner and make one long, continuous pass. Then continue to make long, smooth passes until you reach the desired depth.

Plane a door edge so it’ll close easily

Bevel a door edge to a precise 5-degree angle using an adjustable fence on the hand planer. Bevel on the hingeless door edge so the door closes smoothly and the leading edge doesn’t click on the jamb. To achieve both a uniform bevel angle and a straight edge, stand where you can make long, smooth passes with the tool while keeping the fence snug against the door face.

Remove the wood from the back of door casings

Hollow out the back of door casings so they’ll fit flat against both the wall and the door jamb. Drywall that protrudes from the edge of a jamb can cause casings to tip. The hollowed-out casing will step over this edge. Control the depth of your cut to avoid a too-thin casing face that will crack during nailing.

Plane filler boards for tight-fitting cabinets

Taper-cut filler boards so cabinets fit tightly against walls. Ensure this no-gap fit by carefully shaving to the wall scribe mark and angling the hand planer slightly to cut more wood off the backside of the board than is cut off the front. This is called back beveling. Plane the entire edge of the filler board by raising the cabinet high enough off the floor to allow the tool to complete its pass.

How Much Do Electric Planers Cost?

Most handheld power planers have blade widths of 3-1/4 in. Some are equipped with blades 6-1/8 in. or wider. Planers differ in cost because of blade width, quality of construction, amp power and standard accessorieslike a carrying case.

Light-duty models will handle 90 percent of your tasks and cost between $100 and $200. Contractor grade planers are more rugged, have more accurate and easier-to-work depth gauges, include standard accessories and cost $300 or more.

Select tools or buy accessories with:

• Cast metal sole plates, which warp less than stamped metal plates.
• Power cords longer than 6 ft., because theyre less likely to hang up on the workpiece and interrupt a smooth pass with the tool.
• Adjustable fences that allow you to work accurately on door edges, wood trim and boards.
• Chip deflectors, which direct waste instead of broadcasting it.

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A bathroom vanity is probably something you never considered making yourself. Allow me to help you change that perspective.

As I approached this project for a DIY bathroom vanity, I purposely designed it with clean lines and simple joints. Ultimately, I wanted a vanity that would fit well in any bathroom and compliment any style. And it’s really not that difficult to build. The hardest part will be reading a tape measure for exacting measurements.

This vanity strategically hides all hardware so the whole thing looks like it’s floating. Follow my step-by-step instructions and insider tips so you can build this DIY bathroom vanity with confidence.

Project Overview

Cutting List

Overall dimensions: 49-in. W by 23-1/4-in. T by 18-in. D.

* – One long edge ripped at a 45-degree angle.

** – Cut both ends at a 45-degree angle.

Cut wood for top portion of vanity

Using a miter saw or circular, cut wood for the front face (A) and two side panels (B) for the upper part of the vanity. Refer to the Cutting List above.

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