Make sure to do a bit of research first to avoid common pitfalls or mistakes; check that you’re using the correct kind of caulk for the task at hand, for example. But once you’ve confirmed that you’re using the right materials for the project, you can go ahead and get to color-matching.

Tools

• Mixing Board
• 3-in. putty knife
• Zip-top freezer bag
• Plastic spoon

Materials

• Caulk
• Colored grout
• Painters tape

Step 1: Use Grout to Color-Match the Caulk

Squeeze some caulk onto a mixing board, making sure you use enough to complete the entire job; it’ll be hard to match the color across the whole project if you have to add more later. Then add colored grout to the caulk and mix thoroughly with a 3-in. putty knife.Add in colored grout as you go, a little at a time, until you’ve got a match for the existing grout.

Step 2: Tape Off the Caulking Area and Apply the Mixture

Once you’ve mixed in enough grout to color-match your existing grout, it’s time to load the grout/colored caulk mixture into a zip-top freezer bag and apply it. Applying it should feel like icing a cupcake with a pastry bag.

Scoop a hefty portion into the bag. Zip the top shut and snip off one bottom corner. Then apply the caulk/grout bead to your tub and tool the joint with a plastic spoon or wet finger.

Pull the tape free before the caulk sets up. Finish any cleanup and then you’re done! Coloring caulk to match you grout is deceptively easy and is a useful skill to have.

The post Here’s an Easy Way to Match Caulk and Grout Colors appeared first on Family Handyman.

Dry-Pack Mortar

This is the traditional tile backer. First, felt paper is stapled to the floor and covered with expanded metal lath. Then cement, sand and water are mixed together to a crumbly consistency and floated over the lath to form a flat surface.

Given the complexity, its easy to see why even experienced tile setters avoid dry-pack mortar and use backer board instead when they can. But a mortar bed does have advantages. There is no cutting or fitting of boards, and a mortar bed is good for leveling and flattening uneven or out-of-level floors, which are common in old houses. If you are good with a trowel and understand how to set up and use screeds as a guide for leveling or forming the mortar, pouring a traditional mortar bed may be a good alternative to tile backer board, especially on uneven or sloping floors.

The post Pros and Cons of Various Tile Backers appeared first on Family Handyman.

Glass Mosaic Backsplashes

This is the “top of the list” no-no for interior designer and TikTok user Phoenix Grey (@phoenixgrey). In one particularvideo, he rails glass mosaic backsplashes for being “too busy” aesthetically and explains that “the extra amount of grout means that they’re grimier and much harder to clean.” Yikes!

The post 8 Backsplashes to Avoid, According to Interior Designers appeared first on Family Handyman.

Despite scouring resale and vintage shops in the area, I couldn’t find the vintage tiles I needed. My solution? I painted white tiles to try to match the blue and coated them with clear spray-on enamel. It wasn’t the best match, but it did the job, and wasn’t very noticeable behind the toilet anyway.

As it turns out, had I scoured the internet a little more diligently, I might have found dealers who specialize in selling and reproducing vintage tiles for kitchens, bathrooms, fireplace mantles and other parts of the home. We asked several to shed some light on what makes tile vintage, how to work with vintage tile, and why it’s worth trying to find the real thing.

What Is Vintage Tile?

“Vintage” is a word that gets tossed around easily. There no a hard-and-fast cutoff point where tile becomes vintage.

Josh Blanc, artist and owner at Clay Squared to Infinity in Minneapolis, Minnesota, says “vintage tiles in America are tiles that were installed in homes built from the 1890s to the 1950s. Each period had distinctive styles and colors.”

Scott Wells, owner of Wells Tiles & Antiques in Los Angeles, says vintage tile can be a little younger. “In our 30 years of business selling tile, we’ve learned that the term ‘vintage’ is used very loosely,” Wells says. “We consider vintage tile that is approximately 30 years or older. Antique tile is 100 years old and, of course, much harder to find.”

The qualities that make tiles vintage include their dimensions, glazes and other aspects of manufacture. All eras used unglazed porcelain tiles, Blanc says, so the color went all the way through the tile. Victorian floor tiles, he says, typically had borders and highly decorative patterning.

Bungalow-style homes, including the popular Sears, Roebuck and Co. kit homes of the early 20th century, “tended to use unglazed porcelain hexagons and used more solid colors with florets and other smaller florets as their design tools,” Blanc says.

Blanc says mid-century homes “went to multi-sized patterns” and often used unglazed porcelain tiles as small as 3/4-in. by 1- 9/16-in.

Can Modern Tile Be Used to Match Vintage Tile?

If you’re trying to replace only a section of vintage tile, it may be tough to find a match.

“Modern reproduction tiles focus on a few iconic designs and mass produce them at a low price,” says Blanc. One example: hexagons tiles in white with black florets. “They look like a classic tile from the bungalow period,” he says, “but they offer little to no customization or variations in color choices and sizes.”

Additionally, modern tiles will simply not match up to vintage in many cases because of their different glaze techniques. Even if you can’t get an exact match, artisans like Blanc and his team produce reproduction vintage tiles that adhere to vintage patterns and color schemes.

Is Vintage Tile Better Made Than Modern Tile?

Many homeowners want to preserve or recreate a vintage style simply out of design preference. But beyond aesthetics, are there advantages to using vintage tile, or is modern tile better? Wells leans towards the old stuff.

“Most of our older tiles are approximately 1/2-in. thick,” Wells says, “Whereas today, most new tile is between 1/4-in. to 3/8-in. thick so I would say, not as durable.”

Blanc says “the [tile] industry expects homeowners to change styles and rip out what was put as the next trend takes hold.” But ceramic tile is extremely durable, he says, and “is supposed to be a 100 year product no matter what tile you choose.” Installation will make all the difference in how well a tile project holds up.

How To Clean Vintage Tile

“Grout needs to be redone on a semi-regular basis depending on use,” says Blanc. “It saves home owners lots of money and makes their tile installation look new again.”

If you choose to hire a professional rather than tackle your grout repair as a DIY job, he recommends The Grout Doctor, which has locations across the US.

If you go the DIY route for routine tile cleaning, Blanc recommends mixing a solution with these elements:

• 1/4 cup white vinegar;
• Two teaspoons borax;
• 3-1/2 cup hot water;
• Twenty drops essential oil (he prefers lavender or lemon);
• 1/4 cup liquid dish soap.

Once mixed, put the solution in a spray bottle and spritz the tile surfaces. Then wipe clean with a paper towel or washcloth. A sponge or soft brush will work as well, but avoid any abrasive cleaning tools.

Can Vintage Tiles Be Repaired?

If a maintenance or repair job in your home broke a few tiles, you might piece them back together and reinstall them. But it’s unlikely the repair will be “invisible.” Unless you had clean breaks and retained all the tile pieces, cracks along repair lines are going to show.

And if a structural problem damaged the tiles, Blanc says you’ll likely need to chisel them out and investigate the problem.

Where to Buy Vintage Tile

“It’s always advisable to search for the old tile if one is trying to match an existing installation,” says Wells. “Even if the new tile has the same design, it would stand out noticeably next to the original antique/vintage tile.”

Wells says his Los Angeles store offers the country’s largest inventory of vintage tile. Even so, if you have a large tile job in mind and you’re set on vintage, be prepared for some flexibility. “It’s difficult to obtain a large amount of vintage or antique tile, so finding enough, especially from one source, for an entire room would be a chore,” he says.

Blanc’s studio and showroom sells vintage reproduction tiles. He also recommends Restoration Tile, another producer of historic reproductions. And he’s a fan of Retro Renovation, an online resource for vintage home restoration and materials.

Closer to home, you can scour thrift stores and architectural salvage companies for genuine vintage tiles.

The post What To Know About Vintage Tiles appeared first on Family Handyman.

James Upton, a bathroom remodeling specialist and founder of DIYTileGuy.com. explains homeowners may be motivated to change their grout color for several reasons.

“It could be that they want to go from a blending grout color to a contrasting color or vice versa,” says Upton. “Another reason could be that the existing grout color is more difficult to maintain and keep looking fresh.”

Can You Change the Color of Grout?

Yes. Since tiling isn’t structurally dependent on the grout, you can change the color without tearing up the tile and starting over.

Is Changing Your Grout Color a DIY Project?

Yes, it’s definitely a task a DIYer can handle. “It may even be difficult to find a professional in the area willing to take the project on,” Upton says.

Changing grout color involves minimal tools. As long as you have some patience, it shouldn’t be too challenging to complete. There’s also more than one way to change grout color, so you can choose the method best suited for you and the tools you have on hand.

The first and easiest method? Using a colorant painted onto the existing grout. The other method is removing the old grout and re-grouting with a new color.

How To Change Grout Color: Re-Paint Existing Grout

Painting your existing grout with a special colorant is the least labor-intensive method. You’ll need a bottle of grout colorant of your preferred color; Upton recommends Mapei. You’ll also need a small brush and a microfiber cloth. In Upton’s experience, it’s generally easier to go from a light color to dark color.

“If you have white subway tile, it’s easier to paint your white grout joints charcoal gray than it is to turn charcoal gray to white,” says Upton. “Doing the latter may require multiple applications.”

Here’s how to do it:

1. Thoroughly clean your grout and tile, then allow it to completely dry.
2. Shake your colorant bottle and apply it to your grout lines with a brush. Cover the lines completely.
3. Allow the colorant to dry. The time may vary depending on the product.
4. Wipe excess colorant off your tiles. If you have textured tiles, mist them with water and rub with a microfiber towel. For smooth or polished tiles, simply wipe the entire area with a paper towel or microfiber cloth.
5. Keep people off the tile for at least two hours.

How To Change Grout Color: Remove and Replace

Removing the grout and re-grouting with your color choice may be a better option for some, Upton says, “especially if you want to change to a lighter color or the original grout is too loose or powdery. ” He recommends using an electric oscillating tool along with a circular carbide grout removal blade.

If your tiles have very narrow grout joints, like marble or subway tile, Upton says a simple utility knife could work well enough. You’ll need to buy new grout as well as the tools and materials necessary for grout application. Then proceed:

1. Remove existing grout with an oscillating tool or utility knife, taking care to avoid damaging the tiles.
2. Clean and vacuum grout joints to remove dust and debris. According to Upton, the grout joint needs to be at least 1/8-inch deep to allow the new grout to be applied effectively.
3. Apply new grout.
4. Allow to completely dry before walking on it.

The post How To Change Grout Color appeared first on Family Handyman.

What Is Grout?

According to James Upton, bathroom remodeling specialist and founder of DIYTileGuy.com, “Grout is a cement or chemical-based material used for filling spaces in-between tiles.” He further clarifies that grout is part of the finished look of the tile and not what is used to adhere the tiles to the floor.

Types of Grout

Upton explains that there have been some recent developments with grout, so it’s not as simple to categorize as it was even a few years ago. Essentially, there are two basic types of grout: cement-based and non-cement based.

Cement-Based

The traditional grout that most people are familiar with is made from a cement-based mix. These grouts were only available in sanded or unsanded options in the past, which are porous and vulnerable to stains. According to Upton, a new type of cement-based grout known as “high performance” cement grout is now available. He explains that this new grout is stronger, more color-consistent, and less porous than previous generations of cement-based grouts. Since it’s fast-setting, care must be taken during installation so you don’t find yourself with dried grout before it’s properly washed and detailed.

Non-Cement Based

Epoxy grout made of epoxy resins combined with a filler is very hard and durable, and won’t stain like cement-based grouts. Once you mix the ingredients together, a chemical reaction begins and you have a limited amount of time to install the grout before it cures completely.

Single-component grouts are another non-cement-based option. Upton explains that this name is somewhat misleading, as “these used to be solely urethane-based but many of the products on the market nowadays include multiple ingredients and so a more broad category name was required.” These products don’t provide the hardness or stain resistance of epoxy, but in Upton’s opinion, “the finished appearance is more appealing, especially on walls.”

The Purpose of Grout

Although it doesn’t adhere the tiles to the floor as some might think, grout does serve several important purposes.

• Strengthen the Tiles: Tiles can expand and contract during heating and cooling cycles. By filling in the space between individual tiles, grout absorbs this pressure, allowing for movement and preventing tile cracks.
• Visual Appeal: Properly applied grout adds a seamless, professional look to your tilework, and by customizing the width and color, can complement and accentuate the patterns in your tiles. Grout also makes it easier to create mosaics and complex tile patterns by securing tiles in place and preventing them from sliding around.
• Keeps the floor clean: By creating a seamless surface, grout prevents dirt, bacteria, and spilled food from getting caught between tiles. This also makes it much easier to sweep or mop up when it’s time to clean. This also prevents water from seeping into the subfloor, reducing the chances of moisture damage.

Grout Installation Considerations

• Grout joint size: This measurement is the width of the grout between the tiles. Upton explains that “in general, wider grout joints will make it easier to install and line up the tiles during installation. But, it seems that thinner grout joints are more desirable these days.” He adds that a common width is 1/8-3/16-inch, with 1/16th of an inch being the absolute minimum, according to tile industry standards. Learn how to grout the tile.

• Grout sealers: Sealers help to make cement-based grout less porous, but, as Upton explains, they’re not miracle products. Sealers won’t completely seal the pores of the grout or make it totally waterproof or stainproof, although they may help keep some contaminants from penetrating it. Upton adds that many high-performance cement grouts claim that they don’t need to be sealed, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that they won’t benefit from one. Since epoxy and single-component grouts are not cement-based, they won’t benefit from a grout sealer and do not need to be sealed.
• Color: Grout can be a visual element of your tile project as well. A good rule of thumb is to choose a darker color if you want to accentuate the pattern of the tile, and a lighter shade if you want to create a unified, natural look. Darker-colored grout is also easier to keep looking clean, and won’t stain as noticeably as lighter grout.

The post What Is Grout? What To Know appeared first on Family Handyman.

Touch up Nicks and Scratches

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Keep these elements in mind when you’re sizing and positioning your shower.

The tile layout: It’s easier to determine this if you select your wall tile ahead of time. Plan your tile layout to account for edges and corners, and shift the starting point if needed.

Shower doors: If your shower will have a door, pick it out in advance to make sure the shower opening accommodates it. Don’t forget to allow for the thickness of the tile and the cement board. When you’re determining the size of the shower door and the direction it should swing, consider other bathroom doors and fixtures.

Plumbing: It’s much easier to hook up a new shower located near existing plumbing. If you’re installing your shower in a remote location, create a plan that accounts for new plumbing configurations.

Joist span and floor supports: The shower we designed and installed here weighs upward of 1,000 pounds, or about the same as a spa with a couple of people in it!

If you live in an older home with 26 or 28 floor joists, you may need to beef up the floor with some beams or extra joists. If you’re unsure, consult a building inspector. And if your house was built in the 1970s, it could have a 5/8-in. particleboard underlayment that needs to be removed before starting.

The post How To Build a Shower Pan appeared first on Family Handyman.

What Is Tile Grout?

What is grout? Basically, it’s the stuff that fills the gaps between the tiles. There are cement and non-cement (epoxy and other materials) versions of it. Grout is not what holds the tiles to the surface, but it does help strengthen the tiles and add to the visual appeal.

It’s also there to help keep the surface clean by preventing dirt and grime from getting wedged in the gaps that would otherwise be there between the tiles without it. Of course, keeping grout clean poses its own set of challenges.

Frequent exposure to hard water, soap and hair care products can quicklyturn clean bathroom tile grout into a dingy mess. The good news is that, in most cases, dingy grout can be effectively cleaned with a mixture of common household cleaners.

How Often Should You Clean Tile Grout?

That depends on where the grout is located. For a tiled shower where there’s regular use and constant moisture, the grout will need to be cleaned more often than a tiled wall. It’s best to clean grout as soon as it starts to look dirty, discolored or whenever mold and mildew start are starting to build up.

How to Clean Grout

The recommended cleaning method depends on how dirty your grout is to begin with. Some solutions will be more suitable for regular grout cleaning and maintenance, while others are made to really get after the gunk on especially grimy grout. Here are four methods for cleaning grout using common householdcleaning supplies that you probably already have under your sink.

The post How to Clean Tile Grout With Household Cleaning Products appeared first on Family Handyman.

Top 10 Tips for Preventing Mold After Water Damage:

A flooded basement, moldy drywall and mildewed grout are no fun to deal with. Here are tips to help you prevent water damage and mold growth from happening in the first place, and tips for handling these situations if they do occur.

Tip 1: Control Indoor Moisture to Prevent Mold

The key to stopping mold and mildew is controlling dampness. The worst infestations usually occur in damp crawlspaces, in attics and walls where water has leaked in from the outside, and in basements with poor foundation drainage. Stopping leaks, ensuring good ventilation in attics, keeping crawlspaces dry and routing water away from the foundation are the best defenses.

Tip 2: Make Sure Your Bath Fan Is Big Enough

The next thing to consider for how to prevent mold after water damage is whether your bath fan is big enough. If the fans aren’t clearing out most of the moisture in your bathrooms after five to 10 minutes, your fans may not be moving enough air. Fans are certified by the volume (cfm, or cubic feet per minute) of air exhausted out of the room. To find the recommended fan capacity for your bathroom, multiply the bathroom square footage by 1.1 (assuming an 8-ft. ceiling; for a 9-ft. ceiling, multiply by 1.5). Check the cfm volume of your fan, usually marked on a label under the grille. Replace it with a larger model if it’s too small for the size of your bathroom. Here’s what to do if you spot mold on your bathroom walls.

Tip 3: Consider “Smart” Bathroom Timers and Humidity Sensors

Bath fan timers are important because excess humidity can cause everything from window condensation and mildew to moisture and rot inside walls. Some new wall switch timers have dual controls for turning off both lights and fans after a preset time. For the ultimate in smart bath fan timers, buy a humidity-sensing fan designed to automatically turn on and off as moisture levels at the ceiling rise and fall.

Tip 4: Squeegee Your Shower Every Time You Use It

After a bath or a shower, squeegee water off the shower walls. That eliminates at least three-fourths of the moisture that supports mold and mildew growth.

Tip 5: Clean Visible Mold Immediately

Surface molds grow in just about any damp location, such as the grout lines of a ceramic tile shower. To get rid of mold, scrub with detergent and water and let the surface dry completely. Or use a solution of 10 percent bleach and 90 percent water (a stronger bleach solution will not give better results). Spray or brush on the solution, let it sit 10 minutes, then rinse it off and let dry. A nontoxic mold control product called Concrobium ($10 for 22 oz. at home centers or on Amazon) can be effective if used every few months. For a complete guide to mold remediation and removal, check this out.

Tip 6: Use Paint with Mildewcide in Damp Areas

Mildewcide in paint is usually effective for controlling surface mold in damp rooms like bathrooms and outside in shady areas. Many paints already have mildewcide in them. Check with your paint dealer to be sure.

Tip 7: Act Quickly to Stop a Leak

Another important thing to know for how to prevent mold after water damage is how to act quick in an emergency. A gushing plumbing leak can dump several gallons per minute into your home. You have to act fast to stop the stream. Shutting off the main water valve is an obvious move. But there may still be a few gallons of water held in pipes above the leak. Turn on the lowest faucet in the house, which will let the water harmlessly drain out of the faucet instead of through the leaking pipe.

Tip 8: Don’t Delay Cleanup

The longer things stay wet, the more likely you’ll have permanent damage. Delay can also lead to mold problems inside walls, which can cost thousands to eradicate. So before you run off to buy plumbing parts, clean up the mess. Pronto.

Tip 9: … But Don’t Act Rashly

Your first impulse will be to wade in and rescue your stuff. But that water might be dangerous, so put on your boots and take precautions. Any water in contact with electricity might be deadly. Stay out of the water until you, an electrician or your utility has turned off the power to your basement. Floodwaters may contain toxic chemicals and will almost certainly breed dangerous bacteria. Protect cuts and open sores from floodwaters and wear plastic gloves when handling your possessions.

Tip 10: Prevent the Top Causes of Water Damage

Don’t come home to a plumbing catastrophe. Shut off the main water valve when you leave for extended periods, use stainless steel “no-burst” hoses for washing machines, faucets and toilets, and use frost-proof outdoor faucets.

The post 10 Tips for Dealing With Water Damage, Mold and Mildew appeared first on Family Handyman.

Home centers carry high-quality grout, but they dont make choosing it easy. Luckily, Dean Sorem, our tile expert, has tried all the options and offers clear recommendations based on decades of experience. Heres what youll find at home centers and flooring suppliers:

Ready-to-use grout

All the formulas in this category let you skip the messy mixing process, and some offer excellent durability and stain resistance. But they can be tricky to use. Some harden very fast; you need to work quickly so they dont harden on the tile before you can wipe them off. And Dean has found that they can stain porcelain tile that has a matte finish.

Standard cement grout

Like concrete or mortar, these grouts begin as a powdery mix that contains Portland cement. Then, when mixed with water, they gradually harden. While some of these products are superior to others, none of them is a bad choice. But you can find much better options that cost just a few bucks more. Check out these tips on removing grout.

Best grout choice: Top-quality cement grout

The three products shown here are superior formulations of traditional cement grout. Dean considers them the best choice for DIY projects and for most of his own jobs. Heres what makes them stand out:

• The particles, or aggregate, in the powder are much smaller. That makes the grout less porous and more stain resistant. Dean has tried to stain these products and found that every staineven red winedisappeared with a little detergent and light scrubbing.
• Theres no need to seal the grout. Stain resistance is essentially built in.
• Unlike standard cement grout, there arent sanded and unsanded versions. The same product can be used on walls and floors, with narrow and wide grout joints.
• This type of grout achieves better color consistency, with very little blotchiness, even with dark-colored grouts.

Dean has one warning about these grouts: They harden fastnot as quick as epoxy or some of the premixed products, but faster than standard grout. To avoid hardened residue on the tile, mix up smaller batches, have your sponges and water buckets ready to go and dont delay the wipe-off phase of the job. Learn our best grouting tips.

Grout cost? Who cares!

The best grout might cost you twice as much as the cheapest option. But after spending all that time, energy and money installing the tile, do you really want to risk the whole project just to save 20 bucks?

What about Epoxy?

You may have heard that epoxy is the best grout availableincredibly durable and stain resistant. Thats probably true, but Dean doesnt think DIYers should even consider epoxy. Its difficult to use and hardens fast, and any residue that hardens on the face of tile is a nightmare to remove. With other great options available, epoxy just doesnt make sense.

Meet the Expert

Dean Sorem has been installing tile and teaching others how to get the best results for more than 40 years.

How to Repair Grout Thats Cracking

The post Choose the Best Grout appeared first on Family Handyman.

What to look for in a roofing contractor

A new roof is not a cheap investment and shopping for a new one can be intimidating. The roof is the single most important element of your home for protecting you from the elements. When you’re putting the security of your roof in the hands of contractors, there are a few steps you should follow to ensure you’re making the right choice.

Make A List And Narrow It Down

Don’t choose the first contractor online that gives you what you think is a decent quote. Make a list of up to ten contractors in your area that you would like to investigate further. From there, narrow down your list based on obvious criteria. Contractors that you can cross off are those who are not insured or licensed, have a bad rating with the Better Business Bureau, have a slew of negative customer reviews online, and are those who are willing to give you a quote over the phone without inspecting your home first.

Pick Your Top Three Contractors

Once you’ve narrowed your list a bit, there are a few more criteria you can use to narrow it down to your top three. Ask your prospective contractor how long they’ve been in business, if they are willing to give you a dedicated onsite point of contact for your project, and what references they can provide.

Schedule A Quote Call For Your Top Three

Ask your top three roofing candidates to come perform an estimate on the roof work that needs to be done. Accompany them as they move about your home. A good roofer will check both the exterior and interior of your roof if there is attic access, this includes the gutters. Once they’re finished, you’ll have a better idea of which roofer you prefer.

Get A Quote In Writing

Each of your prospective contractors should provide you with a quote in writing, and do it promptly. If you have to wait for longer than a week for your quote, then that contractor isn’t prepared to handle your business efficiently. Those who hand you a detailed, well written quote promptly are those that are ready to handle your business.

Detail Post Work Cleanup

Your contractor should include post construction clean up in their written contract. If it’s not listed, get it listed with detail before you sign on the dotted line. By getting it in writing you’ll ensure you’re not left with a giant mess in your hands once the work is done. This cleanup should include material removal, especially if the job entails a complete roof replacement.

By following the above steps and taking any other measures you need to before the roofing work begins, you’ll ensure the process is as smooth and painless as it can be. Hiring a reliable contractor with a long history and outstanding references will give you the peace of mind you need to know you’re having quality work performed.

Richard Frazier works with Arlington Roofing Contractors, located inArlington, TX.

The post Five Things You Should Know Before Hiring A Roofing Contractor appeared first on Family Handyman.

Scraping out moldy caulk from around a bathtub is a tough, tedious job. And if you get too aggressive, you’ll chip a tile or mar the tub finish. Make the job a lot easier by first softening the caulk with a caulk remover (inexpensive at hardware stores).

The post How to Remove Caulk From the Tub appeared first on Family Handyman.

Tile Removal: Start with a chisel and hand maul

Theres no easy way on how to remove tile. Unlike tile on cement board or wood, theres no underlayment or subfloor that can be pried up and thrown away. How to remove tile from concrete requires knocking out the tiles and adhesive. How to remove tile takes time and hard work. Even a small bathroom will take half a day, at a minimum.

Chisel up tiles

Work the chisel between the tiles and the concrete, hammering them up with a 2-lb. maul. Use a 3/4- or 1-in. masonry chisel and a 2-lb. hand maul. Start at a broken tile or between tiles where the grout has loosened. Work the chisel under the tiles, forcing them loose. Strike the face of stubborn tiles to break them up for easier removal. Wear safety glasses, gloves, pants and a long-sleeve shirt, since hammering the tile sends sharp shards flying. Also wear a dust mask.

Typically, older floors with mastic adhesive will come up easier than floors laid with thinset mortar. Rent a small jackhammer with a chisel point if the tile refuses to come loose. For larger rooms, consider renting an electric tile stripper or using other concrete demolition tools.

The post How to Remove Tile From a Concrete Floor appeared first on Family Handyman.

The hardest part of a tile backsplash project may be choosing the look.

• The tiles come in various shapes and materials, and many sheets have glass or metallic tiles built in for accents.
• Most common are 12 x 12-in. sheets, but other sizes are available.
  • 4 x 12-in. strips are common for borders and accents.
• Don’t pick an overly intricate pattern, cautions tile supplier Drew Mansur. “They can be tricky to align and require more precise cuts which won’t really be feasible until you have some experience under your belt.”

The post How to Tile a Backsplash appeared first on Family Handyman.

DIY Subway Tile

After receiving contractor bids to tile our kitchen backsplash that didn’t fit our budget, my husband and I decided to tackle the project ourselves. With one weekend and a lot of hard work, we transformed a plain, white wall into a farmhouse-style tile backsplash. Though we are very happy with the results, this project came with almost immediate lessons learned, and there are definitely some things we would do differently if we did it all over again. Here’s a list of what to do and what not to do when taking on a subway tile backsplash project.

The post How to Install Subway Tile Backsplash: Dos and Don’ts appeared first on Family Handyman.

Stone, porcelain and glass tiles offer beautiful options for bath and kitchen tiling projects. However, cutting these hard materials presents a unique challenge. Straight cuts are easy to make with a diamond wet saw. But cutting curves and holes requires special techniques. I was tiling a shower on a recent bathroom project and I needed to cut an opening for the shower valve hardware. An inexpensive angle grinder with a diamond blade can cut perfect circles and squares in the toughest tile.

You can buy a 4- or 4-1/2-in. grinder and a dry-cut diamond blade for as little as $75. In general, more expensive blades will last longer. When choosing a diamond blade, look for one with a continuous, rather than segmented rim for the smoothest cut. Be aware, though, that cutting with a dry-cut diamond blade creates a lot of dust and noise. So make sure you cut in a well-ventilated area (or better yet, outside!) and wear hearing protection, a good-quality two-strap dust mask and safety glasses.

The method I used for cutting a circle with a grinder requires you to cut around the circle a number of times, making a deeper cut with each revolution. The key is to maintain the same angle and shave off progressive layers, moving the cut closer to the center of the circle.

Mark tile for cutting

With a pencil, mark the tile where you will be cutting out the circle by using the plastic shower faucet valve cover as a template. Trace template on both sides and use a speed square or tape measure to make sure the template location matches perfectly with the front side.

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How to Fix a Wobbly Ceiling Fan

While a slight wobble on your bedroom ceiling fan is normal, a fan that really wobbles is not only annoying but can be dangerous. Learn how to check the fan box, the blade and the blade irons.

Photo: Dmitri Ma/Shutterstock

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Grout is the material that fills in the gaps between tiles. It’s most commonly white, though it can be other colors depending on the scheme you want to go for. You can even custom-mix your own grout colors if you can’t find the one you want to perfectly match your vision.

Like any part of the home, grout can get dirty. That once white material will look dull and take on other, undesirable colors. If it’s in the kitchen, this can be partly caused by the grease from cooking. If it’s the bathroom, the culprit can often be soap scum and other grime.

No matter the cause, the grout will need cleaning. But sometimes, the dirt is really packed in.

When cleaning isn’t enough, the usual cure is grinding it out and regrouting. But here’s an easier approach: DAP Kwik Seal Grout Recolor Kit, available at home centers or online. It lets you whiten grimy grout by putting a fresh coating over it in a few hours.

It’s a four-step process. First, you clean and prep the grout with DAP Pre-Treat. Next, apply the Color+Seal coating. Remove the excess, then buff off the haze. The kit contains everything you need and covers about 100 sq. ft. of 4-in. tile. Smaller tile will have more grout lines and require more material.

Pretreat the grout

Sponge on the pretreat solution and let it sit for five minutes. Then scrub the grout with the supplied brush. Afterwards, wipe it clean with the chamois.

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Plan the project and assemble tools and materials

By itself, the tile in a shower enclosure is almost maintenance-free. With an occasional wipe-down, it can look good for years. Grout, however, is a different storyeventually, it’s going to break down. Large cracks and crumbly chunks are alarming, but smaller fractures can be trouble too. Fractures, and stains that won’t wash out, may indicate spots where water is wicking in and working its way behind the tiles. Sooner or later, that water will weaken the adhesive that’s holding the tile or cause rot in the walls. When that happens, the only solution is to tear out the tile and start from scratch.

The good news is that if you catch it in time, you can quickly and easily give tiled surfaces a new lease on lifeand a fresh lookby applying a new layer of grout. In this article, we’ll walk you through the regrouting process from start to finish, and offer some tools and tips to prevent mid-job mishaps. It will help to have a basic understanding of tile work, but you don’t need much previous tile experience; regrouting is mostly grunt work.

The materials needed for an average-size shower are inexpensive. In some cases, you can finish the job in a few hours, but to be safe, give yourself a weekend. If you start on Saturday morning, you should be able to take a shower on Monday.

Choosing the right tools and grout

Before you begin digging into that old grout, make sure you have all the tools and materials you’ll need to finish the job. To help make sense of what you’ll need, think of this project in three parts: scraping and cleaning, regrouting and cleanup.

When you’re choosing grout-removal tools, stick with steel to be safe. Many special grout scrapers equipped with carbide tips work well and stay sharp for a long time, but if you slip, the carbide can damage your tile or tub. Steel utility knife blades, on the other hand, may dull quickly, but they’re less likely to scratch the tile. Buy a knife with easy-to-change blades, and also buy plenty of spare blades (buy a 100-blade pack). They’re ideal for cleaning out narrow joints. A grout saw with a notched steel blade is also handy for snagging chunks of grout.

As for grout, buy a 10-lb. Bagyou may have some left over, but that’s better than running out. Grout comes in two forms: unsanded and sanded. Your choice depends on the width of the gaps between the tiles. For joints up to 1/8 in., choose the unsanded variety. For wider joints, choose sanded to avoid cracking. Whatever type you need, look for a polymer-modified mix. The extra ingredients help prevent future cracking and staining. It’s almost impossible to match new grout to old, but don’t worry. By scratching out the topmost layer from all the grout lines and adding new, you’ll get a fresh, consistent color.

Tip: When you’re shopping for grout, stick with brands that offer color-matching caulks. Factory-matched caulk/ grout combinations blend almost perfectly.

To apply the grout, buy a rubber-soled grout float and a grout sponge (both from home centers). In case the grout starts hardening too quickly, you’ll also want to buy a plastic scouring pad (see Editor’s Note, below). Last, buy a tube of tub-and-tile caulk that matches the grout color.

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You can build this elegant outdoor table with simple tools and basic skills. Get your wood and steel at a home center, and look for interesting tile at a local tile supplier. Ask to see a porcelain or stone tile (or a combination) thatll withstand harsh weather conditions. Our table, with two sizes of stone tile, cost about one-fifth the cost of a store-bought table.

This tabletop is made from a plywood core wrapped in cement board, sealed with a paint-on membrane and then covered with ceramic tile and grout. The leg base is made from sturdy steel bars (from your home center or hardware store) that you bend (with the aid of a template and homemade jig) into pleasing curves. Then you drill and assemble them and finally, screw them to the tabletop.

Dont worry if you didnt pay attention during metal shop. Well show you a seat-of-the-pants method for bending the steel without the expensive metal shop tools that a pro would use. Figure on spending 10 to 12 hours over the course of a week to complete the project.

To help guide the process, weve broken the tasks down into daily steps. It accounts for time spent waiting for glue, mortar and sealer to dry so you can finish the project efficiently. In total, this project will take about 6 days.

Build the Bending Jig

• Glue and screw two 2×4 blocks to a 16 x 36-in. sheet of 3/4-in. plywood.
• Screw the plywood to your workbench.
• Let the glue dry overnight before using the jig.

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