As a professional woodworker, I’d much rather use my tools than sharpen them, but I know dull or broken bits are unavoidable. I’ve had a toolbox filled with old drill bits, so it was past time to do something about it. That’s where the Drill Doctora sharpening system for all types of drill bitscomes in.

A lot goes into sharpening bits, especially if you’re freehand sharpening. The chisel point must be perfectly centered, and you must have a proper downward angle away from the cutting edge. Thinking about everything required for the perfect setup, it’s amazing you can even sharpen one. The Drill Doctor takes away the guessing game as their system centers the chisel point of the drill and sets up the cutting edge just right. All you have to do is set the bit and rotate to get consistent results every time.

Wondering if the Drill Doctor drill bit sharpener is right for you? Todd Osgood, creator and tool reviewer for Project Farm, says, “The Drill Doctor 750X is simple to use and sharpens drill bits quickly and precisely. It can even convert standard point drill bits into split point bits, allowing for an even more efficient drill bit. It’s by far the best drill bit sharpener that I’ve found in its price range.”

Here is how the Drill Doctor 750X measured up after I tested the tool using a range of bits, angles and materials.

What is the Drill Doctor?

The Drill Doctor is a professional drill bit sharpening system designed to bring dull or broken bits back to life. The machine easily extends the life of twist bits and masonry bits and improves drilling performance. The chuck can accommodate a 3/4-inch bit and includes long jaws for optimum grip of even the smallest bits from 3/32 inches, which is a lifesaver for when my old eyes can’t see that small.

There are two ports for sharpening, one for standard sharpening and one to sharpen or create split point bits. Holding the drill bit securely using an angle guide, the diamond grinding wheel removes work material, making the sharpening process quick and straightforward. It creates an impressive range of angles from 115 to 140 degrees, with markings for standard sizes of 118 and 135 degrees. It sharpens carbide, cobalt, high-speed steel, black oxide and titanium-coated bits. You’ll realize your return on investment sooner if you’re using cobalt bits that are more expensive to replace. At 7.5 pounds, this machine is portable and compact, taking up little workspacesomething a serious craftsman can appreciate.

VIA MERCHANT

$159.95 at Amazon

$159.95 at Acme Tools

$175.40 at Lowe's

$159.95 at Northerntool

We Tried It

Drill Bit Sharpener

The Drill Doctor is ideal for home workshops and serious DIYers. They have the sharpening power needed to quickly restore dull or broken drill bits.

$159.95 at Amazon

$159.95 at Acme Tools

$175.40 at Lowe's

$159.95 at Northerntool

Drill Doctor Features

Broken bits are no problem with the Drill Doctor. You can re-point them, easily bringing them back to life. This unit doesn’t sharpen spade or brad point bits, having given that up to be able to sharpen split point bits. If you use a lot of split point bits, you know how quickly they can dull, so this may be the sharpener for you. I was worried about over-splitting the bit point, but this unit has a “push to stop” port, preventing this from happening.

The diamond sharpening wheel is easy to access with a clear window on the bottom. According to the manufacturer’s website, plan for around 100 sharpenings per wheel before you’re due for a replacement. I practiced replacing the wheel with the hub wrench that came in the box and found it quick and easy, with a couple of turns of the hub wheel. However, the sharpening wheel is held by a reverse threaded screw, so remember, left is right and right is wrong. There is no slot or magnetic holder for storing the wrench.

Furthermore, the Drill Doctor drill bit sharpener comes with a three-year warranty that protects against defects due to workmanship or design, abrasives excluded.

How I Tested It

Sharpening drill bits freehand using a bench grinder is like unleashing a tsunami in a teacup. It takes an extremely light touch as well as a bit of good luck to work out. I was skeptical that this compact sharpener could compete with a bench grinder in terms of power. I was pleasantly surprised at the simplicity and accuracy of the three-step, error-proof sharpening process.

Freehand Sharpening

To start, I chose the bit angle (the standard is 118 or 135 degrees). I then moved from one port to another, aligning the drill bit, adjusting the bit position, and then sharpening the bit. A couple of cams and a swivel move the drill bit precisely through the foolproof sharpening process. To sharpen, line up the white line on the chuck with the cam guide, then, with a light touch, rotate one-half turn and repeate the plunge action until you don’t hear the grinding noise.

After you’re done and the bit is sharpened, there’s access on the far side to add split points on your bits. This can prevent “walking” on the material before beginning a cut. It can also eliminate the need to center-punch a hole. This process was simple as the bit was already in the chuck after sharpening. I just removed the grit tube, pressed the chuck slowly into the split port one half-turn and then repeated.

There’s a slight learning curve at first, but once you get past that it’s like a sharpening assembly line. I read the manual but highly recommend taking time to watch the instructional videos on the manufacturer’s website. Once you get the feel for it (it took me about 15 minutes), you will get amazing results.

First Try

For my first try, I used some cheap bits that I didn’t mind ruining. I failed to adjust the bit position correctly, which is an important step to proper alignment. The bit clamp arms should be holding the bit at its thinnest part (the flutes). To correct this, I turned the bit slightly until the clamp arms fell into the flutes.

The Drill Doctor took about two minutes to sharpen a 118-degree 13/64 split point drill bit from start to finish using the default material removal setting. I’m sure adjusting the material removal could have done it fastercertainly a far better result than trudging to the hardware store for a new drill bit set and better than the hit-or-miss method of my free-hand sharpening attempts.

After I got a couple of bits under my belt, I went from dull to sharp in about two minutes with accurate and consistent results. Using a marker on the top of the drill bit, I could see where the Drill Doctor had gone to work. It removed all the markings, and the cutting edge looked sharp and ready for action.

Pros

• Can create or sharpen split point bits
• “Push to stop” design to prevent over-splitting drill points
• Operation is smooth, low vibration
• Once past the initial learning curve, the three-step process (choose angle, align, sharpen) is accurate and straightforward
• Impressive range of angles from 115 to 140 degrees
• Large enough to accept bits up to 3/4 inch

Cons

• Doesn’t sharpen brad point or spade bits
• Not as versatile as the Drill Doctor X2, which can sharpen knives, scissors, and drill bits

FAQ

Can you sharpen masonry bits on a Drill Doctor?

Masonry bits typically have a carbide or similar hardened tip designed for drilling into materials like concrete, brick or stone. The hardness of these materials means that they can be sharpened on the Drill Doctor but instead of making rotations in the sharpening port, you sharpen by using a plunging action. Insert the chuck to sharpen one side, remove it, and then repeat on the other side.

Can Drill Doctor sharpen carbide?

The 180-grit diamond grinding wheel can sharpen bits made out of carbide. It can also sharpen carbon steel, high-speed steel, cobalt, TiN-coated and masonry drill bits.

What Other Reviewers Had to Say

The Drill Doctor 750x has earned nearly 2,700 five-star ratings on Amazon alone. Here’s what real-life users are saying about it:

Five-star reviewer, Cindy S., says the Drill Doctor is user-friendly and works great. “We sharpened at least 20 drill bits the first night, took one of the worst and cheapest drill bits, and it’s like brand new now.”

“I certainly recommend the DD750X to anyone who wants cleaner sharpening, a simpler sharpening process or who wants to remove any human error from splitting a point using more traditional methods,” says Rakesh Aladeen, who gave the Drill Doctor five stars for the quick learning curve and quality sharpening.

Verified purchaser, KC says, “I liked the versatility of the 750X and couldn’t be happier. I sharpened at least 100 bits the first day I got it! It was pretty pricey but to me, it’s worth every penny.”

Drill Doctor vs. Tormek

The more affordable Drill Doctor specifically sharpens drill bits. It doesn’t offer the versatility of sharpening other types of tools. The Tormek sharpening system sharpens a variety of tools, including knives, chisels and scissors. It’s known for using a water-cooled sharping method, which prevents overheating of the tools. The Tormek is more expensive with a steeper learning curve due to the variety of jigs and accessories that go with the sharpening system.

Guy Lautard, author of The Machinist’s Bedside Reader, has a Tormek wet wheel grinding machine but not the Tormek Drill Sharpening attachment, which is quite expensive. Guy explains, “I would prefer the Drill Doctor over the Tormek drill sharpening attachment, due to its significantly lower price and the fact that it is a self-contained device that would be easily taken outside for use, which is what I’d prefer to do, rather than using it inside my shop.”

If your primary need is to sharpen drill bits, the Drill Doctor may be a more cost-effective and straightforward solution. However, if you have a variety of tools to sharpen and are willing to invest in a more versatile system, the Tormek would be a good choice.

Final Verdict

The Drill Doctor hit it out of the park! It has saved me money in drill bits, the hassle of going to the store for replacements, and time saved on the job from always having a sharp drill bit. The split-point bit feature makes a big difference in cutting speed, too. I’ve sharpened tools with a bench grinder and learned about sharpness, angles and relief. The results of the Drill Doctor have been more accurate and consistent.

Sharpening by hand doesn’t always equal perfection, given the complex angles involved. If I had Superman’s focus and hands, I’d use a bench grinder, but the Drill Doctor is the next best thing. The compact design sold me and has a permanent spot in my shop, so I’m always ready to sharpen a dull bit. Clean, maintain and store it easily.

Where to Buy the Drill Doctor

VIA MERCHANT

$159.95 at Amazon

$159.95 at Acme Tools

$175.40 at Lowe's

$159.95 at Northerntool

We Tried It

Drill Bit Sharpener

Increased versatility and precision control provide the added durability needed to sharpen a full range of dull or broken bits.

$159.95 at Amazon

$159.95 at Acme Tools

$175.40 at Lowe's

$159.95 at Northerntool

Find the Drill Doctor drill bit sharpener on Amazon, Acme Tools, Lowe’s or Northern Tool for between $150 and $175. I certainly recommend the 750X to anyone who wants cleaner sharpening, a simpler process or the removal of any human error from using more traditional methods.

The post We Tried It: Drill Doctor Drill Bit Sharpener Review appeared first on Family Handyman.

Two-Part Filler

The post Amazing Repair Products appeared first on Family Handyman.

70 Years of Fireplace Projects

Family Handymans first cover story was How to Repair a Brick Fireplace, and weve been serving up fireplace projects ever since. We showed how to cover brick with tile way back in 1953. Since then, better tools and materials have made it much easier for DIYers to tackle a project like this. Tile manufacturing has improved too, with more choices available, like the large tiles we used for our modern fireplace makeover.

A Few Things We Learned

• Large tile carries an extra cost
  • I chose Sofia Charcoal porcelain tile for its texture and consistent color, which made the seams almost disappear. The fireplace was about 60 sq. ft., but with large tile theres a lot of waste. So I had to buy 90 sq. ft. at $9.20 per sq. ft., or just over $60 a tile.
• Tile costs vary a lot
  • The total materials bill for my project was about $1,200. Tile was by far the biggest cost ($900), but you can find good-looking tile for less than half that price.
• Rent a tile saw
  • For the 31-in. x 31-in. tiles I chose, I had to rent a large-capacity saw ($75 per day).
• Dive into something new
  • In removing the hearth, I wasnt exactly sure what I was getting into.Im usually not a fan of exploratory demolition, but one of the best ways to learn how to build something is to first take it apart.
• Choose reinforced thin-set
  • I used a modified thin-set ($60 per bag) thats reinforced with fiber. It allowed the tile to stay put on the wall without sagging and provided an extended working time, so I didnt have to rush.
• Wide-notch trowel
  • Larger tile tends to be slightly cupped. To make sure the tile adhered well, I had to fill it with thin-set to compensate. I used a 3/4-in. round-notch trowel to be sure there was enough thin-set to adhere the tile.
• Mind the edges
  • I opted to install the tiles tight together instead of leaving gaps for grout. To get these tiles to match up perfectly, I placed the factory edges of the tiles together and kept the cut edges on the outside.
• Beware of painted brick
  • If you tile over a painted fireplace, youll be rolling the dice.If the paint peels, so will the tile. The safe approach is to remove most of the paint before tiling.

Protect Your Floor

This project calls for the ultimate floor protection.

• Start with a layer of rosin paper taped at the seams and edges.
• Then cut sheets of hardboard to fit around the fireplace and join them with duct tape.
  • Pro tip: The rosin paper keeps granules that might get under the hardboard from scratching the wood floor, and the hardboard protects against dents.

The post A Step-by-Step Guide to Fireplace Refacing appeared first on Family Handyman.

Buy PDF & Cut List

Getting Started on Building an In-Ground Fire Pit:

Advice From a Masonry Pro:

Doug Montzka, of Montkza Concrete & Masonry in St. Paul, Minn., has been in the concrete and masonry business for 23 years. He’s seen the popularity of fire pits but it’s possible to create a DIY fire pit. I started getting requests for brick fire pits a few years ago. It isnt rocket science, but there are a few tricks to doing the job right. A well-built masonry fire pit is rock solid, safe to use, and will easily last for as long as you own your house.”

Set Aside a Few Days

This won’t be the kind of project you can complete in an afternoon. There are a few time-consuming steps that will spread this project out over a few days. First, youll have to pour the footing and give it the time to set up. Then youll have to mortar the bricks into place.

Before Digging, Call Utility Companies

Before digging out the space for your in-ground fire pit, call your utility companies (dial 811; for more info, go to call811.com) to check the location of buried utility lines.

Also, check the fire pit code in your area. Most require a fire pit to be 25 ft. away from any structures and overhanging trees. Think about how the prevailing winds blow through your backyard.

Mark Out the Fire Pit

The first step to making your own fire pit is to dig out a dedicated space in your yard for the fire pit base. The following are the fire pit dimensions we used for this project.

• A 3-ft.-diameter in-ground fire pit creates enough room for a good fire, yet keeps everyone close enough to chat (and complies with most codes).
  • Pro tip: To make measuring the pit and pouring the concrete footing easy, we used two cardboard concrete form tubes (purchased from a concrete supply company).
• You could also make your own forms by screwing together 1/8-in. hardboard. For a non-traditional fire, opt for a smokeless fire pit.
• Rip a 4 x 8-ft. sheet into four 8-in.-wide strips.
• Carefully bend and screw two strips together to create a 36-in.-diameter circle, and use the other two to make a 48-in.-diameter circle.
• Set the larger form in position and spray paint around it. Dig a hole about 8 in. deep and 3 in. larger in diameter than the form.

The post How to Build a Brick Fire Pit appeared first on Family Handyman.

Brick Walkway Overview

You don’t need heavy equipment and a week of work to lay an attractive and durable walkway. We designed this path, one of our favorite garden path ideas, with bricks for simplicity and ease of construction. It’s made from old street pavers and granite cobbles set on a sand bed. But you can substitute just about any pavers or types of stones that are readily available and fit your landscape. The stone-setting techniques will even accommodate stones of varying thicknesses. You can build this path in about two weekends using a shovel, a wheelbarrow and a few inexpensive hand tools.

We’ll walk you through all the path-building details, from breaking ground to breaking the cobbles to fit tight spots. Usually, the main stumbling block is making the path smooth and flat. To solve that problem, we’ll show you a simple leveling technique using ordinary plastic landscape edging. With this technique, you can lay a top-notch path, even if you’re a novice.

Garden Path and Bench

We integrated a seating area into our pathway. Also, keep in mind that we designed this path for foot traffic and other light use. Don’t try to drive on it. Because the path is set only on sand, it won’t stay as flat and smooth as a traditional paver walk set on a compacted gravel bed. It’s ideal for narrower secondary walks in a garden or backyard, where slight imperfections and undulations add to its character. And if an edge stone gets loose from a wheelbarrow bouncing over it, you can reset it in minutes. Expect to pull an occasional weed growing up in the joints. Or if you prefer an English cottage look, encourage moss or other ground covers to grow in the joints.

The post How to Build a Brick Walkway in the Garden appeared first on Family Handyman.

Driveway Sealing Preparation

There are several kinds of driveways for homes, but one of the most popular choices is an asphalt driveway. It can last for almost 30 years, even adding a little curb appeal to your home. But you can’t achieve that long life span unless the driveway was installed properly and you perform regular maintenance, like filling cracks annually and driveway sealing when needed.

Driveway sealing preparation can take a full day (including drying time), and it’s tedious. The driveway sealer application phase is much faster, taking only a few hours per coat for a typical driveway. Most driveway sealer manufacturers recommend two coats with a minimum drying time of eight hours between coats, so this driveway sealing project will fill an entire weekend. Sealing it is also an important step for winterizing your driveway.

The best asphalt driveway sealer materials cost about $100, but you’ll save about $200 in labor over a professional job. A power washer speeds the cleaning process, but you can do the job without it. In addition to a squeegee or application brush, you’ll need a broom, drill, mixing paddle, duct tape, dashing brush and poly sheeting to protect painted surfaces.

Avoid these common driveway sealing mistakes

• Depending on the sealer to fill cracks. It won’t. Fill them properly before applying sealer.
• Failure to clean and prep the driveway before applying the sealer. If you don’t want to spend time cleaning the driveway, you may as well skip the sealer too, because it won’t stick to a dirty driveway.
• Failure to stir properly. Don’t depend on a stir stick. It simply won’t blend the water and solids enough to get a consistent mixture.
• Use of the wrong applicator. Using a brush when the manufacturer specifies a squeegee (or vice versa) will cause premature sealer failure.
• Applying asphalt sealer too often. Too much sealer will flake off. Wait until you begin to see asphalt aggregate before you apply a new coat of sealer.

Buying the Right Materials

Driveway sealer is available in various grades and price ranges. Some bargain products contain almost 50 percent water and have lower coverage rates and a correspondingly shorter guarantee, so they’re not the most cost-effective solution over the long term. Use one of them if you’re trying to spiff up the driveway before selling your home. Premium products, on the other hand, are made with higher quality resins and UV stabilizers and contain filler and elastomeric material, so they last longer and carry a longer guarantee.

Manufacturers also make different formulas for different driveway sealing conditions: one formula for newer driveways in good condition and another formula for older driveways that haven’t been well maintained. The two formulas also vary in their coverage, so read the labels carefully and choose the correct sealer and quantity for your particular driveway. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for the type of applicator to use (brush or squeegee). Using the wrong one can cause premature failure. You’ll also need liquid driveway cleaner/degreaser to remove oil and tree sap. If your driveway has visible oil stains, pick up a bottle of oil spot primer.

Check the Weather Before you Start

You’ll need at least two days of dry weather to seal your asphalt driveway. Temperatures must be above 50 degrees F during application and throughout the night. And, it’s best to avoid scorching-hot sunny days (the sealer may dry too fast). If you ignore the weather forecast, you may see $100 worth of sealer wash away in a heavy rain.

Start with Cleaning and Priming

Use the soap nozzle on your power washer or a garden hose applicator to apply the driveway cleaner. Then scrub the entire driveway with a stiff-bristle push broom.

Even if you think your driveway is clean, trust us, it isn’t. Exhaust gas contains combustion byproducts that deposit a light, sometimes oily film on your driveway. That film, along with dirt and tree sap, must come off if you want the sealer to stick. So clean the driveway first (Photo 1).

The post How to Seal an Asphalt Driveway appeared first on Family Handyman.

Paver Stone Walkway Overview

Do you want to spruce up an ordinary, all-purpose sidewalk? If so, this project is a great eye-catching solution. Its basically a brick paver walkway set on a solid bed of gravel and sand. Itll stay flat and smooth even under heavy use, and unlike concrete, it wont crack. The brick meanders through a blend of natural stone, also solidly bedded, which adds a unique decorative dimension. You can work in just about any type of stone that complements your home and yard.

Our project dresses up a space along the side of the house from the driveway to a service door. It also provides a firm, smooth surface for rolling a garden cart or wheelbarrow and keeps your feet out of the mud on a rainy day. Its width, a full 7 ft., allows enough room for a bench to kick off your boots, with plenty of space left over for potted plants.

Path building is a great project for homeowners of all skill levels. However, it involves moving tons of material. You should be in good physical shape to tackle this job or enlist a few helpers with strong backs. Once you have all the materials on hand, plan a three-day weekend to finish the whole enchilada.

You need a few special tools for this project: a plate compactor and hand tamper (Photo 4). Rent them both from a local rental yard. Besides a sturdy wheelbarrow and shovels, youll need a dolly for moving heavy stones, a brick hammer and chisel, a 4-1/2 in. angle grinder equipped with a diamond blade, and a steel trowel. All these tools are available at home centers and masonry supply stores. Order the brick, stone, gravel and sand from a landscape and/or a brick supplier.

Paver stone walkway design and materials

Although you could build this project on a gentle slope, its far easier to set the grade on a relatively flat site. However, one corner of our path site dropped off about 8 in. To make the walk flat, we built it up with soil excavated from the walk and blended it into the lawn. If you have to build the walk up higher than that, youll probably have to do more extensive regrading or even build a retaining wall.

You dont have to build your walk 7 ft. wide like we did, but keep it at least 4 ft. wide to maintain an attractive balance between the stone and the brick. We used a clay paving brick with a soft texture and irregular edges that make it look aged, as if its been there forever. When selecting a brick, make sure its a paver thats made to be set in the ground and that has a severe weather rating if you have freezing weather.

Big, flat stones are called flagstone, in this case a Wisconsin limestone called Chilton. Stone type and availability vary considerably by region. Choose one that complements your house color and the brick you select. Be sure its 1-1/2 to 3 in. thick to avoid cracking over time.

The rounded stone is called fieldstone. We found some rock in our local landscape yard that fit well in the niches of the flagstone. We handpicked 45 of them for our project but they were expensive. If you dont want to pay the premium price or if this type isnt available in your area, any fieldstone with at least one reasonably flat face will work. Collect them from your yard or pick through a boulder pile at a landscape yard. Get a variety of sizes from 6 to 18 in. in diameter and 2 to 4 in. thick. Thicker ones will work, but theyre more difficult to set.

Path layout

Lay out and dig the walk 6 to 8 in. wider than the actual size (Photo 1). The extra width supports the paver edging that you’ll install later to keep the brick on the edge from tipping. Locating the walk against the house makes setting the grade easy. Snap a tightly pulled chalk line below the door to the drive to represent the top of the sidewalk and work from this reference (Photo 2). It’s best to set the walk height slightly higher than the surrounding lawn area, 1 in. or so, but no more than 8 in. below a door or the step down will be too high. And plan a slight slope across the width to help drainage, about 1 in. in 6 ft. If you build your walk away from the house, stretch tight string lines to represent the finished height of the walk.

Excavate this job with a buddy who owes you a favor

Diggings a lot of work, but this is a small enough area that you can dig it out in a few hours with a helper. If you have a low-lying area nearby, dump the extra soil there. Otherwise you might have to rent a 10-cu.-yd. trash bin. Photo 2 shows you how to check the depth of your excavation against your reference line. Since the lawn will probably dip and rise along the outside edge, you may have to add soil to the lawn or cut some away to meet the walk edge evenly. Do this after you set the brick. Dig as accurately as possible. If you dig too deep, fill the area back in with soil and compact with the compactor before adding the gravel.

We had every utility line in the book coming underground into this side of the house (Photo 1), which really slowed down the digging. Carefully dig parallel to these lines, then pull the wires or cable aside to avoid cutting them. After digging, lay them back down and bury them under the gravel.

Move any sprinkler lines that run under the walk or the plate compactor might crush them. You can generally move a sprinkler head yourself if youre familiar with installation techniques (Photo 3). Otherwise, call in a pro.

Build a firm base

Lay your walk on top of a 6-in. bed of compacted gravel. Skimp on this step and your brick path will settle and heave within a few seasons. Order gravel that ranges in size from 3/4 in. down to a powder (called 3/4 in. -minus or Class II). Figure the volume in cubic feet by multiplying the length (ft.) x width (ft.) x depth (1/2 ft.) of your walk. Add 6 in. to each side thats not bound by the house and round up the volume to allow for compaction of the gravel. Have it delivered and dumped on the driveway. (Move your car out of the garage first!) Shoveling gravel off pavement is easier than shoveling it off the lawn. At the same time, order about one-fourth as much coarse, washed sand to set the brick on.

Before you spread the gravel, line the excavation with a heavy woven material called stabilization fabric (Photo 4), available from a landscape supplier. Itll prevent the gravel from mixing with the softer soil underneath, so youll have a stable, flat walk for years to come. If its not available in your area, substitute a heavy woven landscape fabric.

Fill and compact only a 2- to 3-in. layer of gravel at a time. Rake it out at a consistent depth, using the chalk line on the house as a guide. Run over each layer with the plate compactor at least four times, until the tone of the tamper changes from a dull thud to a hopping rap (Photo 4). Compact corners with a hand tamper.

Use two 1-in. (outside diameter) steel pipes (available from a home center) as a guide to smooth out the last gravel layer (Photos 5 7). Take your time when setting this layer. It determines the final grade for the stone and brick. Use a 2×4 marked at 2-3/4 in. to level the pipe closest to the house (Photo 5). Add or remove gravel to support the pipe. To set the walk slope (for draining water away from the house), position the second pipe about an inch lower than the first (Photo 6). Figure 1/8 to 1/4 in. slope per foot, depending on your need for drainage. Screed the last layer of gravel flat and compact it (Photo 7).

Setting the stone

Flagstone has dips, waves and irregular edges thatll test your patience when youre setting it. The trick is to focus on making the overall surface a flat plane. Dont obsess over a low corner or an edge that doesnt match up perfectly. They wont. Set three or four stones in an inch or two of sand, then check them in a few places with your 2×4 screed or a level (Photos 8 and 9). Raise or lower any stones that dont line up. Use your chalk line as a height guideline and maintain your slope for drainage.

When fitting the flagstones, select pieces that naturally fit together. If you have to tweak a piece, chip away edges slowly with a glancing blow of a brick hammer. (Be sure to wear safety glasses when cutting or chipping brick and stone.) Take off too much and youll break the stoneusually in the wrong spot! Try to keep the joints no wider than 1-1/2 in.

When placing the fieldstone, set a grouping in place before setting the height (Photo 10). Stand back and scan them, then adjust the shapes, sizes and colors of the arrangement until you like it. Then set them. Make the tops flush with the flagstone or a hair high. Dont fuss too much; you can always change out a stone later.

How to Move Heavy Flagstones

Flagstones ranging in size from 18 to 42 in. weigh 100 to 300 lbs. plus. These tips will help you get them into place:

• Tip and gently flip large pieces. Dont try to lift them.
• Tip the pieces onto a dolly with a helper and roll them close to their position. With help, lower them into place.
• Pry the pieces up with a 3-ft. bar to add or remove sand.
• If a piece is just too big to move, break it in half with a sledge. Then match the broken edges, spacing them about 1/2 in. apart so the break looks intentional.

Screed a sand bed

Heres where the careful setting of the last gravel layer pays off. Again use the pipes to lay an even 1-in. thick bed of sand. Youll need a shorter pipe to screed sections between the stones (Photo 11). Clear away enough sand left from setting the stone so the pipes rest completely on the compacted gravel layer. Then dump a wheelbarrow of sand between the pipes, spread it out and screed it. Use your trowel to screed in areas you cant reach with the 2×4.

Dont compact or walk on the sand layer. You want it smooth for setting the brick. However, you can step on the stone and brick after theyre in place. Next establish lines to guide the brick layout (Photos 13 and 14). In general, set your layout to minimize brick cutting and to avoid small pieces along the edges (Photo 16).

Tip: Lay bricks end to end in the driveway and take measurements to get dimensions for positioning layout lines to your best advantage (Photo 13). Its also a good way to establish the exact path width.

Laying brick is quick work

Have the brick delivered as close to the walk as possible. Although not necessary, a brick tong (Photo 16) will cut your carrying time by more than half. With it you can easily carry nine or 10 bricks at once. Consider borrowing or buying one from your brick supplier.

As you lay the brick, leave open every space that wont accept a full brick. Its faster to cut them all at once later. Every 8 ft. or so, check that your rows are straight with the 2×4 screed. Gap the next row slightly to straighten it. Gaps up to 1/8 in. wont be noticeable after the joints are filled with sand.

Cutting brick

The best way to cut brick is with a wet saw with a diamond blade, but the clean cut it leaves would be out of character for this rustic walk. So we decided to score the cuts on the underside with an angle grinder (Photo 18) equipped with a diamond blade, then break them with a sharp blow from a brick chisel. The ragged edge looks better with the stone. Scoring the pieces generates a lot of dust and is noisy, so wear a dust mask, earplugs and safety glasses. Cut large pieces first, then fill in the smaller ones. If a piece is too big after you cut it, chip the edge off with a brick hammer to fit. Not every cut has to be exact. Sand will fill in the joints.

Paver edging holds the brick and sand in place

Install special paver edging around the perimeter of the brick and stone (Photo 19), available from a brick or landscape supplier. Each piece locks to the next. When you install it, remember where your sprinkler, phone and cable lines run to avoid piercing them with a spike.

Tamping the brick is a two-step process

First tamp the brick without sand. Itll smooth out the surface and bring sand up from underneath into the joints. Tie a scrap piece of carpet on the bottom of the tamper to avoid chipping the brick. Next spread dry sand over the surface. Or use leftover sand from the setting bed, if its dry. Another option is to buy bags of all-purpose sand. Tamp again. This will lock all the bricks together.

A tight, solid brick and stone walk doesnt require any maintenance except a simple cleaning with a garden hose once or twice a season. And you can blend your garden right into the walk by planting a ground cover in the joints between the stone, or introduce moss for an aged look.

Figure A: Path Details

How to Install Paver Walkway: Mark the Layout

Paint a line 7 ft. 6 in. away from the house to mark the edge of the sidewalk excavation.

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Begin your planning with a call to your local building department to learn about local fire restrictions. Many regions require burning permits and restrict the size of a fire ring.

Choose an area that’s about 18 ft. in diameter and relatively flat. Be sure to locate the fire ring away from trees, bushes and buildings. Remember that burning wood snaps and pops, sending sparks into the air.

Mark the fire ring and patio

Drive a pipe firmly into the ground at the center of the fire ring. Loop a string over the stake and measure out 9 ft. Mark this point with tape. Hold a can of marking spray paint at the tape and spray the complete circle.

The post How To Build a Fire Pit with Landscaping Stones appeared first on Family Handyman.

First: How to Mix Concrete

Before you start on your first concrete project, take some time to learn the best way to mix concrete. This will ensure that your project doesn’t crumble when you take it out of the form and that it will last for years to come.Watch and read how Family Handyman editor, Gary Wentz, recommends mixing concrete.

The post 10 Ways You Didn’t Know You Could Use Concrete appeared first on Family Handyman.

Your sore back is screaming for a break from shoveling your driveway for the 10th time in two weeks. Or, perhaps you’re tired of bundling up in all those layers and snowplowing the driveway, only to do it all over again tomorrow.

No snowblower? This is the best way to shovel your driveway.

Have you considered a heated driveway?

Radiant heating slabs have been around for decades and have been growing in popularity in residential settings for the last 15 years, especially for areas that see measurable snowfall every year.

Check out these incredible snow removal tools.

Two Types of Heated Driveways

There are two systems available for heating driveways: A water-based hydronic system or an electric system. Electric systems are more affordable to install since you don’t need to purchase a boiler to heat the water. However, the cost of operating an electric system is higher.

Installing a hydronic system involves putting in PEX tubing under the driveway’s surface. The tubing is filled a non-freezing water solution that circulates through the boiler which is generally placed in the garage.

Electric systems use heating mats and cables, in a grid pattern, installed under the driveway’s surface.

Neither system requires much maintenance, although if you go with a hydronic system, have the boiler inspected once a year.

These 13 snow blowing tips make snow removal quick and easy.

How Much Does a Heated Driveway Cost?

While heated driveways will help you save on snow removal and damage often caused by salt and ice melting products, they are pricey to install.

Expect to pay $16,000 or more to install a heating system for an average-size driveway if the existing driveway needs to be removed to install the system. If the system is installed during new construction, it will cost less.

You’ll also want to factor in that you’ll pay more in utilities because the systems use gas or electricity to operate.

However, if installed correctly, you’ll get about 20 years of use from a heated driveway before it needs replacement. That’s a lot of shoveling and snowblowing you won’t have to do!

These 10 great snow and ice removal hacks will come in handy this winter.

The post A Heated Driveway: Is It Actually Worth It? appeared first on Family Handyman.

What to Know Before Buying Diamond Blades

If youworkin construction, it’s more than likely that you own a diamond blade ortwo.Cuttingthrough hard materials likeconcrete, asphalt, tile, brick, and stone can be challenging, especially when youre not using the proper blade. It can be a bit overwhelmingtrying tofigure out whichdiamond bladeto choosewith all of the optionsout there.

There arefourbasic questions you should always ask yourselfbefore picking a diamond blade for your next project:

What are you cutting?

The type of material you want to cutwilldeterminewhat type of bondto lookfor.Bonds are themixture ofmetals that hold the diamonds togetherand secure themon the blade.Different bonds havedifferent wear rates depending on their density. Most bonds are referredto assoft, medium or hard.If youre cutting very dense concrete, a softer bond will perform best.It seems counterintuitive,but you want the bonds to wear down faster when cutting hard materials. Thats because there are more diamondsburiedin the bonding material below the surface of a new bladeand as the blade wears downmore fresh diamonds are exposed. The diamondson a bladewill either wear, fracture or get ripped off the blade. Proper wear is what youre after.If youre cuttingbrick or asphalt, you would want a blade with a harder bond. The diamondswill stay cooler when cutting softer materials which helpsthem maintain their integrity.

When choosing a blade and determining the hardness of bonds that you will be using, keep in mind that it will not always be listed on the packaging. Typically, the packaging of a blade will make it clear what the blade is meant to be used for. If a blade is made for cutting concrete, the packaging will say concrete and show a picture of concrete. Its also important to remember that bond strengths are listed differently from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Bond strengths can be listed in numbers of 10,20,30,40,50 or 1000,2000,3000,4000,5000- it just depends on who is producing them. Some companies even label bond hardness by color. Just remember: the lower the number the softer the bond, and the higher the number the harder the bond.

What kind of saw are you using?

Each saw spins at a different RPM, and mostblades aredesignedto be spun at aspecificRPM.Installing a mismatched blade on your grinder or saw will result in inefficient cutting and could even lead toseriousinjuries.The blade package should state the blades proper RPM range.

Is it a wet or dry saw?

Years ago,most diamond blades needed acontinuoussupply of water to keep them cool. Thats becausethe diamonds were silver soldiered in place andcouldnt handle the heat.The diamonds on modern blades are welded on with lasersand can handle the heat better.But just becauseablade issoldas adry blade doesnt mean that it wont cut faster and last longer if you keep it cool with water.

What diameter blade is needed?

Diamond blades come in many different sizes. The most common sizes are between 4 and 16 inches. Always use the sizethat the toolmanufacturerrecommends.

Types of Diamond bBlades

Segmented blades

These are the most populargeneral use bladesand usuallyhave medium to hard bonds Segmented blades are perfect for dry cutting because segmentation helps keep them cool. Segmented blades are commonly used tocutpavers, concrete and asphalt.

Serrated (turbo)

The serratededges on these blades pushes the debris out of the way which allows them to make fast smooth cuts.Serrated turbo blades can be used in wet and dry applications. With the soft to medium bonds, this blade is good for cutting tile, natural stone, marble and granite.

Continuous blades

These are thecleanest cutting blades, which makes them idealfor cutting finished edges. These blades are the slowest cuttingof thebunch,andthey do require water to keep them cool.With their softer bonds they are best for cutting hard material like ceramic tile and porcelain.

The post Which Diamond Blades Are Best? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Mask off the surrounding area (Photo with step 1), then use the pump sprayer to apply a first coat followed by a curtain coat (Photo with step 2).

1.Protect Trim and Plants

Mask off surfaces, such as trim boards, siding, house numbers and mailboxes. Cover plants and grass with tarps to prevent kill-off from the spray.

2. Apply in Two Steps

Spray the stonework with the first coat of waterproofer. Then immediately apply a liberal, wet-on-wet curtain coat so that the solution drips down 6 to 8 in. over the entire surface.

Theres nothing better than a job well done in the great outdoors. Whether you want a quick morning project or are looking to add a real statement piece to your yard, we have you covered. Check out these34 Awesome Outdoor DIY Projects to Get You Outside.

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Outdoor pavilion plans

Figure A

Figure B- Typical Platform Cross Section

Figure C

Figure D- Hip Rafters

Figure E- Common Rafters

Figure F- Jack Rafters

Figure G

Site details

The pavilions patio base is easier to build if you have a level site. Uneven sites must be built up on the low side with extra landscape timbers.

To construct the patio, youll have to remove the turf with a sod cutter or shovel, then do a bit of digging. Our site has clay soil, which doesnt drain well, so we added a few inches of sand beneath the timbers to drain away excess moisture. If your soil drains well, you can just dig to the thickness of the timbers and pour the 3/4-in. concrete base between the timbers, right over the undisturbed soil.

The post How To Build a Post and Beam Pavilion appeared first on Family Handyman.

Chip out old mortar

Chip away the old mortar with a cold chisel or flat utility chisel. Hold the chisel at a low angle, work it in under the mortar and hit the chisel with short, light hammer blows. Dust out the cavity using a whisk broom and dampen it with water to improve mortar adhesion.

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