Best Overall Garage Floor Tile

MotorDeck Diamond Modular Flooring Tile

Easy installation, wallet-friendly pricing and good color selection are just a few of the qualities that put this MotorDeck Diamond Modular Tile at the top of our list. Designed with high-quality polypropylene, this product also features a non-slip design that resists penetration by grease, oil and other staining liquids. The 12-inch by 12-inch tiles come in a 24-piece package in black, alloy, graphite, red or blue. Installation is easy, requiring no tools unless you’re cutting pieces to fit.

While a few customer reviews expressed concerns about the potential for water getting trapped under the channeled tiles, the majority of reviewers gave this garage flooring idea a 5-star review. MotorDeck also stands behind its tiles, offering a 12-year warranty.

Pros

• High-quality polypropylene resists staining
• Non-slip design
• Available in five colors
• Wallet-friendly pricing

Cons

• Some reviews revealed concerns of water becoming trapped under tiles

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But what about hardwood floors?

“Hardwood floors can be a beautiful and durable addition to any space,” says Andrii Gurskyi, founder of the New York City maid service HomeClean. “But they can also be a breeding ground for bacteria and viruses.”

Here, Gurskyi shares his tips for disinfecting hardwood floors, gleaned from years of experience as a cleaning company owner.

Note: These tips are for finished wood floors. Never use any water or liquid cleaner on unsealed wood floors. Sealants protect wood by resisting water intrusion, and unfinished wood floors lack this layer of defense.

What’s the Difference Between Cleaning and Disinfecting Hardwood Floors?

According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), cleaning means physically removing dirt and germs from surfaces. To do that, we scrub them with soap (or a cleaner) and water, then rinse to remove the residue.

For hardwood floors, add one last step: drying the wood surface well. Water left to pool on wood leads to warping and mold growth, particularly if it seeps into the spaces between the boards.

Disinfecting means killing or inactivating germs, not just removing them. Disinfectants feature chemicals like bleach or alcohol that disrupt the bacteria or virus, usually by destroying their cell wall or metabolic processes.

The CDC says to always clean before disinfecting. That way you remove most of the problem organisms and dirt first, so the disinfectant can work on the microorganisms left behind.

Note: There’s also sanitizing and sterilizing.

Sanitizing is the level of microbe removal between cleaning and disinfecting. Sanitizers aren’t as strong as disinfectants, but can be a worthwhile alternative to harsh chemicals if you’re looking to reduce germs. Sterilizing means to eradicate all forms of microscopic life. That’s typically done in specific circumstances, like in healthcare facilities and commercial food canning operations.

Should Hardwood Floors Be Disinfected?

It depends.

Cleaning does a good job of removing dirt and germs, according to hardwood floor experts. But when there’s an illness outbreak, or you want to target areas where kids and pets track in dirt and germs, disinfecting your hardwood floor can be a good idea. Gurskyi says it’s crucial to disinfect properly, though, because harsh chemicals and water can damage wood.

How To Disinfect Hardwood Floors

“Look for disinfectants that are specifically designed for hardwood floors, or those that are labeled safe for use on wood,” Gurskyi says. “Avoid using harsh chemicals that can damage the finish of the floor or leave streaks.”

Read the label carefully, and always test a small area to be sure the disinfectant won’t harm your floor.

Tools and materials for disinfecting hardwood floors

• Wood-safe disinfectant like Lysol Clean & Fresh Multi-Surface Cleaner;
• Bucket;
• Mop with wringing action;
• Microfiber cloth (optional).

Sweep the floor

“Before you begin disinfecting your hardwood floors,” Gurskyi says, “you need to make sure they are free of any dirt or debris.” Use a broom or vacuum to remove any loose dirt, dust and hair. Don’t forget to reach into all the corners and under furniture.

Dilute the disinfectant

“Most disinfectants come in concentrated form,” Gurskyi says, “which means you’ll need to dilute them before use.” Add the product to the bucket and dilute as recommended on the label.

Don’t go overboard. You won’t kill germs any better if you use more than indicated, so follow the instructions to the letter. Using too much could leave a residue on the surface of the wood or worse, damage the finish.

Apply the disinfectant

Apply the solution to the floor with a mop for a large area, or a microfiber cloth for a small one. Wring out the mop or cloth well between passes to avoid pooling. After you’ve tested a small area, cover the entire surface of the floor with the disinfectant.

Pro tip: Clorox Disinfecting Wipes are safe for wood floors, Gurskyi says. They can be used to quickly disinfect high-traffic areas without doing the entire floor.

Allow to sit, then rinse

Disinfectants need time to work, so it’s important to allow the disinfectant to sit on the floor for the full time recommended on the product label. Then rinse the floor with clean water from a well-wrung mop or cloth.

Dry the floor

Almost done.

“Finally, use a clean, dry cloth or mop to dry the floor,” Gurskyi says. “Avoid leaving any excess moisture on the surface, as this can cause the wood to warp or cup.”

Now that your hardwood floors are clean and disinfected, keep them that way! Sweep your hardwood floors regularly, and remove shoes at the door to avoid tracking in dirt and germs.

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By combining a densifier and waterproofer in one product, Ghostshield Lithi-Tek Concrete Sealer penetrates and hardens while providing a surface barrier against moisture, making it our best basement sealer overall. The lithium (hence the “Lithi”) silicate has a smaller particle size than alternatives like sodium or potassium silicate, allowing it to penetrate deeper into the concrete.

This basement sealer might seem expensive compared to other gallon-sized products, but since it’s a concentrate, it actually covers up to 1,000 square feetwhen mixed with four gallons of water. It’s also mildew-resistant and cleans easily with just soap and water, which helps eliminate basement odors and smells.

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The Benefits of Infloor Heat

Once you shed your fuzzy slippers and discover the comfort of warm floors, youll be sold. Heated floors, often called radiant floors or a radiant heat system, offer benefits beyond foot comfort. They keep entry and bathroom floors dry and provide space heating in cold rooms. You can even turn down the thermostat for your central heating system and still keep some rooms warmer.

In this article, well walk you through the types of radiant floor systems you can install in your home. Well tell you the pros and cons, and show you key installation techniques. This will help you decide whether to take on the project yourself or hire a professional. These heating systems are most often installed under ceramic tile in bathrooms, but keep in mind that you can add heat under any type of flooring material. All floor heating systems warm the floor with either electricity or hot water.

Electric Systems are Simple and Affordable

Electric floor systems work just like an electric blanket: Electricity runs through resistance cable and creates heat. Because electricity is fairly expensive, relatively few homes are entirely heated by in-floor electric systems. However, these systems are great for making especially cold floors foot-friendly. They also boost the temperature in an otherwise chilly room by a few degrees. The warm floor in a bathroom makes getting out of the shower a cozier prospect on a cold day. Thats the payoff.

Electric systems have three components: heat cable, a thermostat and a temperature sensor. The thermostat is connected to the homes power supply and turns the heat on and off according to the floors (not the rooms) temperature. A sensor installed in the floor along with the cable tells the thermostat how warm the floor is. (Most people prefer a floor temperature of 80 to 90 degrees F.) The thermostat and sensor are packaged together; cable is usually sold separately. Dont use a thermostat from one manufacturer with cable from another.

The electrical connections require only basic wiring know-how, and laying the floor cable is a DIY-friendly project. Because of this easy installationand the lower cost of materialsan electric system is usually the best choice for small-scale projects like heating a kitchen floor or warming up a cold bathroom. Adding electric heat to a typical bathroom when you install a new floor adds only $200 to $300 to the cost of the project. Operating costs are typically about a half cent per square foot per day.

Often the biggest challenge is fishing electrical cable through finished walls to the thermostat and cable. Since these systems generally draw only 10 to 15 watts per sq. ft., you can usually connect them to an existing circuit to heat a typical bathroom. For a larger room, you may have to run a new cable to the main panel and pay an electrician about $120 to connect the new circuit there.

If youre installing heat over a wood-framed floor, place fiberglass insulation between the joists to drive the heat upward. The system will work fine without insulation but will be more efficient with it. Before you install an electric system over a concrete floor, check the manufacturers instructions they may require a layer of foam insulation over the concrete before the heat cable is installed.

Tip: When you estimate the square footage of a room, include only the areas where you can walk; it makes no sense to heat the floor under appliances or behind the toilet.

Electric system #1: Loose cables

The cable comes on a spool, just like any other wire. Loose cable is by far the cheapest way to heat a floor and its just as effective as the other systems. The drawback of loose cable is installation time; you have to position the cable in a serpentine pattern, fasten it with lots of hot glue or staples, and then embed it.

Most loose cable systems include end channels that guide spacing. You can place cables close together to make the floor heat up faster and reach a higher temperature or farther apart to use less cable. Manufacturers offer various cable lengths to suit the floors square footage. You cant splice sections of cable together to serve a larger room or repair damaged cable (this is true of all electric systems). Fasten the cable every 6 in. so it cant shift or float while you embed the cable.

Caution: Work carefully with your trowel. If you nick the cable, the entire system wont work.

There are two ways to embed cable: You can install the cable over tile backer board and then cover it with thin-set, the mortar adhesive used for ceramic tile. The thin-set shrinks as it cures, so you may have to add a second layer after the first hardens to level it out. But creating a perfectly flat, smooth surface with thin-set is difficult. You can make it smooth enough for ceramic tile or a floating floor but probably not smooth enough for vinyl flooring. For a faster, smoother surface, install the cable without backer board and pour on self-leveling compound, or SLC. SLC is a cement-based powder that you mix with water and then pour over the cable. It becomes rock hard in a few hours. Reinforce the SLC with plastic lath; metal lath can cut the cable. Covering your floor with a 1/2-in.-thick layer of SLC costs about $2 per sq. ft., including the lath. You can then lay tile, carpet, vinyl or a floating floor directly over the SLC.

Electric System #2: Mesh Mats

The cable comes already woven into a plastic net. The pre-positioned cable installs quicklyin less than half the time for loose cable. You simply staple or hot glue the mesh to the floor. As with loose cable, you then embed the cable and mesh.

Mats are available in lots of different dimensions. You can cut the mesh into sections to cover your floor or fit around corners. But you cant cut or splice the cable itself. Some manufacturers recommend combing thin-set directly over the mesh and setting tile all in one operation. But this is difficult. Most tile setters prefer to embed the mesh first with thin-set or SLC just as with loose wire. The mesh tends to float as you embed it, so fasten it to the floor every 6 in. even if the instructions recommend less fastening. After embedding it, you can lay tile, carpet, vinyl or a floating floor.

Electric system #3: Solid mats

Solid mats are often the most expensive electric system, but theyre also the easiest to install. The cable is completely enclosed in synthetic fabric, plastic sheeting or metal foil. The big advantage is that you dont have to embed it as you do loose cable or mesh mats. With some versions, you simply smooth the mat onto a bed of thin-set. Then you spread more thin-set over the mat and set ceramic or stone tile as you normally would. Some solid mat systems are even easier to install; you just roll out the mats, tape them together and youre done. You can then lay a floating wood or laminate floor directly over it.

Mats are available in various dimensions, and you can combine mats of different sizes to cover your floor. Some mats are sized to fit between joists, so you can heat the floor from below a big advantage if you dont want to replace an existing floor. However, dont install electric heat under a subfloor unless the system is specifically intended for that method.

Floor Coverings and Heated Floors

Any flooring material can cover a heated floor, but some work better than others.

• Ceramic and stone tile are the most common. Heat doesnt harm them and they hold and conduct heat best.
• Solid wood floors can develop gaps if they dry and shrink when heated. If you opt for solid wood, leave the installation to an experienced pro who will test the moisture content of the wood to avoid shrinkage.
• Floating floors made from wood or plastic laminate dont develop gaps because theyre not fastened directly to the subfloor. But youll have to limit the floor temperature. Flooring warranties often limit the temperature to 85 degrees F.
• Vinyl floors have similar temperature restrictions, whether theyre sheet vinyl or tile.
• Carpets or rugs can go over a heated floor, but they act as insulators and reduce heat flow to your feet and to the room as a whole. If you choose electric heat under hard flooring and plan to use an area rug, consider installing the cables only under the flooring that wont be covered by the rug.

Hydronic systems heat space as well as your toes

Hydronic radiant floor heating installation:

In a hydronic system, heated water from a boiler or a water heater runs through loops of flexible plastic tubing called PEX. (PEX can be used for household water supply lines too.) The hot tubes then heat the floor. The main advantage of hydronic systems is that they generally deliver more heat at a lower operating cost than electric systems. Thats why hydronic heat is usually a better option than electric systems to heat large floor areas or even an entire house. However, because they usually involve a boiler, a pump and gas lines, hydronic systems are more complex than electric systems. You can install hydronic floor heat yourself, but you need basic electrical and plumbing know-how as well as professional design help.

Hydronic radiant floor heating installation cost:

The materials for a small-scale hydronic project will cost at least $600.

The easiestand least expensiveway to install PEX is to run it under a subfloor between joists using transfer plates and insulation. This method costs less than $2 per sq. ft. for tubing, plates and insulation. To install PEX on top of a wood-framed or concrete floor, you need to lay a grooved channel system over the floor or embed the tubing in self-leveling compound. Covering PEX requires more SLC than you can mix yourself; leave that to pros who have special mixing and pumping equipment (at least $2 per sq. ft. for the SLC only). With a concrete floor, you may have to lay foam insulation over the slab before installing PEX. In new construction, the tubing is often installed over insulation and the concrete slab is poured over it.

A hydronic system requires several expensive components. But several rooms share the components, so the more area you heat, the lower the cost per square foot. If you want to heat 200 sq. ft. or more of floor, a hydronic system may cost less to install than electric heat.

The heat source for a hydronic system can be a boiler or a standard water heater. If your home is already heated by hot water radiators or baseboard units, theres a good chance that your existing boiler can handle the hydronic system as well. If you dont have a boiler, a water heater can heat one room or several, depending on the size of the water heater. If youre building an addition, you may find that installing a water heaterpowered hydronic floor is less expensive than extending your existing central heating system.

Aside from PEX, a heat source and a pump, a hydronic system may require components such as electric zone valves. It may also require additional pumps. You can install these components yourself, but dont try to design a system yourself. Look for a company that specializes in helping homeowners plan and install hydronic systems. Before you choose to install a system yourself, get bids from professionals. It will help you decide whether the money saved is worth your time and effort.

Understanding Common Alternative Heaters

Learn about popular alternative heating options, from cost savings to eco-friendly solutions and everything in between.

• Best Solar Furnace, Electric, PV Panels Greenhouse Heaters and How to Buy One
• A How-To Guide on Electric Heater Installation
• What to Know About Electric Baseboard Heaters
• What Is Forced Air Heating?

The post Electric vs. Hydronic Radiant Floor Heating Systems appeared first on Family Handyman.

Today you can buy waterproof or water-resistant products, changing the game for basement installations. “Waterproof” and “water-resistant” are different designations, and a waterproof product is definitely better for the basement.

Water-resistant laminates feature a vulnerable fiberboard core encapsulated in a waterproof casing, but any damage to the casing wrecks the waterproofing. A waterproof product either has a more durable casing or a mostly plastic core that’s incapable of absorbing moisture.

The line between waterproof laminate flooring and a similar product rigid luxury vinyl planks is blurred, with the most important difference being the quality of the wood-grain pattern. Here, find out all about basement wood flooring.

One of the main attractions of laminate flooring is its resemblance to real wood, so manufacturers put extra effort into creating realistic and attractive patterns. Laminate planks also come with a harder surface that feels more like wood. So if you prefer the look of wood, laminate is better than real wood or luxury vinyl planks.

What Is Laminate Flooring?

Laminate flooring consists of four layers bonded together to produce planks that are generally 3/8- to 1/2-in. thick, 3- to 5-in. wide and 36- to 72-in. long. From the top down, there’s a wear layer, a design layer, the core and the backing. The wear and design layers are the ones you see, but the core and backing do most of the hard work.

Although some laminate products come with padded backing, most have melamine plastic hard backing for structural stability and moisture resistance.

The fiberboard core, which forms the bulk of the plank, is engineered with a tongue and groove that allow installers to simply snap planks together. This ease of assembly is one of the most identifiable features of laminate, and one of the main reasons for its popularity. Almost anyone can install a laminate floor.

Budget laminates are unsuitable for a basement because their fiberboard core is absorbent and basically unprotected. You need a moisture-resistant or waterproof product for the basement. Even if you find one you like, a flooring retailer might try to talk you out of installing any type of laminate in a basement with moisture issues.

Benefits of Laminate Flooring in a Basement

Laminate products suitable for below-grade installation (check the label) can more than hold their own in a relatively dry basement. Some of the benefits they offer include:

• Easy to install: You can cut laminate planks with any power saw suitable for wood, and the planks snap together like puzzle pieces.
• Easy to maintain: The super-hard, smooth surface of a laminate floor needs little cleaning other than occasional sweeping or vacuuming. You can replace a damaged plank by disassembling the floorboards or cutting it out and installing a new one.
• Long-lasting: Laminate flooring generally lasts twice as long as its warranty period, which is usually around 10 years. Longevity may be reduced in persistently damp conditions, however.
• Attractive: No matter which wood species or color you prefer, you can find a laminate product that mimics it.

Drawbacks of Laminate Flooring in the Basement

Even products for below-grade installation will fail in a consistently damp environment, so you should look for other options if you have water problems. Some other drawbacks include:

• Limited return on investment: Laminate flooring, unlike real wood or ceramic tile, has little to no effect on a home’s resale value.
• Uncomfortable: Laminate flooring is hard and cold. The super-smooth surface can be difficult for pets to navigate.
• Subfloor needs to be flat: If you’ve got ridges or depressions in your basement floor, laminate planks which are rigid and thin can separate or crack. You also need to apply a waterproof coating and install underlayment beneath the laminate flooring.
• Can’t be refinished: You can restore the finish on a dull laminate floor, but you can’t sand it. When the floor becomes too dull to restore, it must be replaced.

How To Choose Laminate Flooring for the Basement

• Read the label carefully before purchasing to ensure the warranty covers below-grade installation. If you choose one that doesn’t, you have no recourse if problems develop.
• Stay away from $1-per-square-foot bargain products. Laminate flooring that will last in the basement costs $2.50 per square foot on average.
• Choose the color and pattern according to your preferences. In a dark basement, keep in mind that a light color will help offset the gloom.
• Given that you’ll probably be installing it on a concrete slab, you’re better off with flooring with robust backing. It costs more, but the extra bulk makes the floor more comfortable for walking and provides extra thermal insulation and moisture resistance.

If you want to keep your basement dry, find out the cost of waterproofing your basement.

Installing Laminate Flooring in the Basement

• Any flooring installation begins with prepping the subfloor. It must be flat so defects caused by spalling or cracks need to be corrected. In some cases, you may need to use a floor leveling compound. New concrete and leveling compound needs to off-gas for at least 30 days, and after that you should apply a waterproofing coating. For maximum protection, follow up by installing a moisture-proof underlayment.
• Install the flooring just as you would anywhere else in your home, by snapping planks together and cutting them to fit as needed with a circular saw or table saw. Use a jigsaw to cut curves for fitting around obstructions like plumbing pipes.
• Be sure to maintain a 1/4-in. expansion gap around the perimeter of the floor, and install baseboard to hide the gap and hold the floor down. If the walls are concrete, you may need to glue the baseboard rather than nail it. If so, glue it to the wall and not the floor.
• Keep a few spare planks for replacements.

The post Using Laminate Flooring for the Basement: What to Know appeared first on Family Handyman.

Replacement probably wouldn’t have been necessary had I chosen rigid core flooring, and I wouldn’t have worked so hard to install it. The floor would have look great and been more comfortable to walk on, too.

Rigid core flooring is synthetic, but it comes in a huge number of patterns. I probably could have found one that resembled the narrow-slat oak I actually chose.

Working at the time as a professional hardwood flooring installer and refinisher, I favored real hardwood. That was then and this is now. Today I wouldn’t hesitate choosing rigid core flooring for my kitchen because it’s waterproof and luxurious, which is probably why they also call it luxury vinyl flooring.

You do have to get past its plastic-like appearance, but manufacturers are making it easier by improving the finish.

What Is Rigid Core Flooring?

Rigid core flooring is a type of vinyl plank flooring constructed in four or five layers, depending on the product. Most luxury vinyl plank (LVP) flooring sold these days is rigid core flooring. Because the core is an engineered composite, it’s also known as engineered vinyl plank (EVP) flooring.

The top wear layer (the one you walk on) features a scratch-resistant coating. A water-resistant topcoat beneath that protects the vinyl design layer underneath, which can mimic stone, ceramic tile or wood. The next layer is a rigid composite core of crushed limestone or wood fibers combined with plastic resin. Most products have a water-resistant cork underlayment as a final layer that provides extra cushion and insulation.

Pros and Cons of Rigid Core Flooring

Rigid core flooring is 100 percent waterproof and would have easily stood up to the water leak in my kitchen. It’s a great choice for below-grade installations like basements, where other types of flooring would warp or separate from the subfloor. Like most products, it comes with number of advantages and some drawbacks.

Pros

• Design flexibility: It comes in lots of patterns, including imitation stone and hardwood. The color range is equally varied.
• Sound and thermal insulation: Products with a cork underlayment act like carpeting, attenuating the noise of footsteps and preventing heat loss through the floor.
• Long warranty periods: These generally last 20 to 25 years.
• Easy to install: Homeowners can save money by installing it themselves.
• Can be installed almost anywhere: Rigid core flooring holds up well in moist, high-traffic areas like laundry rooms, entryways and basements. Some brands can even work outdoors.

Cons

• Can be uncomfortable: Brands that lack the cork underlayment layer can be as rigid as hardwood.
• Not as long-lasting as some other materials: Though warranties run for up to 25 years, it won’t outlast hardwood or ceramic tile.
• Somewhat fragile: The surface coating is scratch-resistant, not scratch-proof. Heavy foot traffic, pet nails and spills all take their toll and can make the floor look worn.
• Color fades: Vinyl flooring must be protected from direct sunlight to prevent the color from fading and washing out.

How Much Does Rigid Core Flooring Cost?

It ranges from $1.70 to $8 per square foot (psf), depending on brand, with a national average of about $4 psf. That’s less than engineered hardwood flooring ($3 to $10 psf) and stone tile ($5 to $10 psf), but more expensive than laminate, ceramic tile or carpet.

The real savings come when you forgo professional installation, which costs from $4 to $7.50 psf, and do the job yourself. This is more feasible with rigid core flooring than most other types of flooring except perhaps laminate.

Of note: Today, rigid core flooring is virtually synonymous with LVP or luxury vinyl tile (LVT) flooring, because the rigid core replaces the flexible core in older versions.

How To Install Rigid Core Flooring

If you’ve ever installed laminate flooring, you know all there is to know about installing rigid core flooring. The planks have snap-together tongues and grooves. Because the floor isn’t attached to the subfloor, you can assemble the planks like a jigsaw puzzle.

To cut a plank, simply score it with a knife and break it across a straight edge. You might need a power saw to cut a notch or fit the flooring around a curve.

Rigid core flooring with a backing needs no underlayment, but you may want to install one anyway for extra insulation and cushioning. It’s also important to lay it on a flat surface. Installing it on a concrete subfloor may require some leveling first. This type of floating floor needs baseboards to hold it down, so factor that into your DIY installation plan.

The post What Is Rigid Core Flooring and Should You Get It? appeared first on Family Handyman.

I’m a former residential carpenter with vinyl plank flooring installation and repair experience. I collaborated with Nick Yahoodain, CEO of Advanced Builders and Contractors, to create this guide to fixing vinyl plank flooring.

If you’re comfortable with DIY home improvement projects and you kept a few extra planks, you can fix vinyl plank flooring. Yahoodain recommends reading the back of the flooring box if you have it or checking the manufacturer’s site to make sure you’re not voiding any warranties.

End Plank Separation

Multiple factors can cause planks to separate. Humidity levels or physical shifting due to high foot traffic can cause unsightly gaps between the ends of planks. This is more typically an issue with click-lock floors than with adhesive installations. Fortunately, this also is one of the easiest problems to fix.

• Vacuum the gap to remove any dust or debris. This creates a tight seam between the two planks.
• Attach a suction cup to the board you intend to scoot toward the other.
• Tap the suction cup with the rubber mallet, scooting the board into the other and closing the gap.
• Continue this method to eliminate the resulting gap at the other end. The last gap should be hidden behind your baseboard.

Side Plank Separation

Humidity and temperature changes can cause planks to contract, creating gaps along the sides. Improper installation can also be the culprit. Either way, these unsightly spaces can be easily fixed with a tube of putty.

• Purchase a putty specifically for vinyl flooring use; some putties and caulks aren’t rated to withstand foot traffic. If possible, select a color that closely matches that of your floor.
• Vacuum and thoroughly clean the gap. Let it dry overnight.
• Position the nozzle of the putty tube in the gap, squeeze, then run it along the length of the gap.
• Run a plastic putty knife along the gap to remove any excess. Wipe up any remaining putty on the plank with a damp sponge.
• Allow the putty to dry and set according to the instructions.

Pop-Ups

Planks sometimes pop up and out of place. These unsightly exposed edges can catch on your shoes or socks, causing you to trip. If failed glue causes the pop-up, follow the steps below. It’s a moisture issue warping the subfloor below, contact a flooring or plumbing pro to properly diagnose the cause.

• Carefully peel up and remove the popped-up plank with a scraper tool. You can re-use this plank if it’s in good shape. If not, go with a new plank.
• Scrape off the dried adhesive on the subfloor below and vacuum up any debris.
• Apply a VPF adhesive to the subfloor, closely following the application instructions.
• Place the plank on top of the adhesive and, with a roller, press it down tight. Place a dumbbell or other heavy object on the board while the adhesive dries.

Scratches

Minor scratches on LVP flooring are often hard to see unless you look really closely. Deep scratches appear as white lines that can be an eyesore, especially on dark-colored planks. Eliminating these white lines is simple and DIY-friendly.

Scratches are often caused by chairs scraping across the floor, so make sure you always use felt floor protectors under your chair feet.

• Thoroughly clean the plank with soap and water to remove any dirt or grease from the scratch.
• Use a furniture repair marker or a repair pen to color in the white lines. These markers and pens are available in many popular LVP flooring colors.
• If your scratches are really noticeable and contained to one or two planks, replace the plank with a new one if you’re comfortable doing it.

Gouges/Dents

Gouges and dents that penetrate several layers of the plank are notoriously difficult to repair. Because most vinyl plank flooring has a wood grain pattern, it can be difficult to make an invisible patch.

If you have extra planks, it’s probably easier to replace the plank than to patch the gouge. But if the gouge or dent is not too deep, or you don’t have spare planks, try filler putty.

• Purchase a color-matched filler putty formulated for use with vinyl plank flooring.
• Wash the dented or gouged plank to create a clean and smooth work surface. Allow it to dry completely.
• Fill the damaged area with the putty, removing any excess with a plastic putty knife.
• Follow any specific drying and sanding instructions for the putty you used.

Cupping

Cupping occurs when the edges of the planks rise up, creating a concave “cup” shape.

Before attempting to repair cupped flooring, it’s important to find out exactly what’s causing it. If it’s high humidity or temperature fluctuations, the planks can potentially return to their original shape by running a humidifier or installing curtains to prevent direct sunlight exposure.

But if the issue is moisture damage underneath the flooring, you’ll likely need to replace the cupped planks. Contact a flooring installer or plumber to diagnose the cause.

The post How To Fix Vinyl Plank Flooring appeared first on Family Handyman.

I interviewed two professional house cleaning experts Alessandro Gazzo of Emily’s Maidsin Dallas, and Alex Varela, general manager of Dallas Maids of Friscoin Frisco, Texas to learn the best ways to clean LVP floors.

What is Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring?

Luxury vinyl plank flooring is made of compressed layers of vinyl, typically with wood grain texture that simulates the look of natural hardwood flooring. The multiple layers make LVP more durable and comfortable to walk on than standard vinyl flooring manufactured in large, flexible sheets.

Also, unlike laminate flooring with a wood particle core more susceptible to water damage, the vinyl core of LVP won’t be effected by moisture.

How Is Cleaning LVP Flooring Different From Cleaning Other Flooring?

Cleaning LVP is similar to cleaning other plank flooring options like natural hardwood, engineered hardwood and laminate flooring with seams between the planks. The seams allow standing water to seep through and possibly damage the subfloor below, so it’s essential to use the smallest amount of liquid when mopping.

Also, unlike hard flooring options like stone or tile, LVP and other plank flooring must be vacuumed or swept frequently to prevent dirt and grime from scratching the surface. Because LVP cannot be sanded or refinished like natural hardwood flooring, these scratches are permanent.

Products Needed To Clean Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring

According to both experts, you’ll keep your LVP floors looking good and free of dirt and grime with a few basic cleaning items.

• Broom and dustpan: A standard bristle broom is sufficient to sweep and capture loose dirt and debris. This O-Cedar model features an angled head that’s perfect for reaching into corners, and a cleaning comb to pull out dust bunnies and hair.
• Microfiber mop: Gazzo says string mops can apply too much water and recommends microfiber models only. We’ve had great success with this O-Cedar mop. Its bucket wringer lets you regulate the amount of water applied.
• White or apple cider vinegar: Standard strength vinegar provides the acidity needed to remove dirt and grime without leaving a soapy residue behind. Varela recommends apple cider vinegar because it provides the same cleaning properties as white vinegar, plus “a little extra fragrance.”
• pH-neutral floor cleaner: Standard cleaners like dish soap can leave streaks. Varela recommends a pH-neutral option. This Bona floor cleaner is pH neutral and doesn’t contain ammonia that can damage vinyl flooring.

How To Clean Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring

According to Varela, LVP flooring is easy to clean. Sweeping and mopping regularly is enough to make your LVP floors last for many years.

1. Sweep with a broom to remove loose sand or dirt. This prevents debris from scratching your floors over time and preps the surface for mopping. You can use a vacuum, but make sure it has a “bare floor” setting that won’t scratch or scuff the surface.
2. Create a cleaning solution. Varela recommends combining a 1/2-cup each of apple cider vinegar and a pH-neutral floor cleaner in a gallon of warm water.
3. Use a microfiber mop with the cleaning solution, and be sure to use only enough liquid to clean the floors without leaving excess behind. Varela adds leaving your windows open can speed up drying. Stand in the furthest corner of the room and work your way forward. Then move slightly to the side and backwards, overlapping the previous path by half. Repeat this over the length of the floor, “This way you will cover the entire surface twice, more than enough to clean your floors properly,” Varela says.

How Often To Clean Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring

Your cleaning frequency will of course depend on how much foot traffic, cooking, playing, etc. go on in your home, along with whether or not you have pets. But sweeping LVP flooring often is a must.

Mannington, a popular LVP manufacturer, recommends at least once per week, while Gazzo says “every other day is fine.” According to Gazzo, LVP should also be mopped once a week if you have pets or kids, and at least twice a month if you don’t.

The post How To Clean Luxury Vinyl Plank (LVP) Flooring appeared first on Family Handyman.

I know from my background in trim carpentry and cabinetmaking the trials of dragging around an air compressor and nail gun from outlet to outlet nailing up moldings, casings, and trim. When I saw that Metabo was set to release a 36-volt cordless air compressor, I was eager to see it’s stamina and power.

What Is the Metabo Cordless Air Compressor?

The Metabo HPT 36v MultiVolt 2-Gallon Cordless Air Compressor is a 36-volt, battery-operated air compressor that outputs a max 135 PSI (pounds per square inch) and 1.6 CFM (cubic feet per minute) at 90 PSI. The green and black, milk crate sized compressor can either be powered by a single 36-volt battery or a work all-day AC adapter,when wall power is available (both sold separately). The Metabo 36v Cordless Air Compressor is designed with a sturdy metal roll cage for added durability and equipped with a strong, oil-free, brushless motor that’s nearly maintenance free. It features a quarter-inch brass industrial coupler, and weighing less than 30 pounds, with the battery, it’s lightweight and easy to haul.

How We Tested It

With only a loose flooring transition strip to re-adhere and a few feet of baseboard to install in my newly finished hallway, there wasnt much on the to-do list that will test the capabilities of the Metabo 36v Cordless Air Compressor.

However, I had plenty of 18-gauge and 15-gauge nails, a 25-foot air hose and plenty of scrap wood, so I started shooting some nails to put it through the ringer. Metabo boasts that it can shoot 1,000, 18-gauge nails on a single charge. I wanted to test that claim, as well as seeing how it functions when shooting larger 15-gauge nails. I also wanted to see how loud this compact compressors brushless motor is.

Performance Review

Performance

After charging up the 4-amp hour battery and setting the PSI to 90, I pulled out my 15-gauge nailer and a box of two-inch nails. I laid a scrap of -inch floor underlayment across a set of sawhorses. And started popping away, testing the compressor’s might.

I nailed on, shooting a nail every second or so, until the compressors motor kicked onto replenish its tank. With the 15-gague nails, this happened every 8 to 10 nails and took between 16 and 24 seconds to refill, depending on power left in the battery. I kept shooting, stopping, finally, when the battery didnt have enough juice to fill the tank and there wasnt enough air to set the nail heads below the plywoods surface. I drove 153 15-gauge nails on a single charge. Not Bad.

Next was the 18-gague nail test. I again charged up the battery and emptied the air tank to start both tests on a level playing field. Same process as before, I shot a two-inch, 18-gauge nail once per second, roughly, pausing for the tank to refill. With the smaller nails, the tank refilled every 18 to 21 nails, and did this 21 times before the battery died. All in all, that was 412 two-inch, 18-gauge nails before the battery was dead and the tank was too empty to set anymore.

The two tests also opened my eyes to how loud the brushless motor is. Having to listen to its blaring hum, 40-plus times, through my OSHA approved, Spotify connected, earmuffs, I was hoping for something quieter. I downloaded a decibel app on my phone. As a comparison tool, compared the reading between the Metabo and my ancient plug-in compressor. I was surprised to find nearly identical 78 and 78.1 decibel readings, respectively, which is a bummer when you consider the quiet compressor technology of today.

After all those nails, the to-do list was a walk in the park. The portability of the Metabo cordless air compressor is the real hero. Maneuvering it through rooms and up and down stairs, without having to find an outlet or run an extension cord is a welcome game-changer.

Value

I utter some form of this spiel every time I discuss a battery-operated tool. A large chunk the value of battery-operated toolsis tied to the battery and charger itself. Personally, I think this is a top-notch tool, worth every penny of the $300 price tag, but I already own a Metabo battery and charger. If you have to figure in the additional costs of these items, it will cost almost $120 more. That makes it a little harder pill to swallow.

Reliability and Durability

The Metabo 36-volt cordless air compressor feels solid and well-made. The heavy-duty tank and cage will protect and keep this unit in good working order for years down the line. I’m also an advocate of Metabo brand tools overall. Metabo, previously Hitachi, has a long track record of making quality power tools, and this cordless air compressor follows that.

Ease of Use

Modern compressors are user friendly machines, and this Metabo is no different. It functions using a single on/off switch and a dial to adjust air pressure. It’s also nearly maintenance free, due to its oil-free, brushless motor. Just stay on top of draining the condensation from the tool’s tank so it won’t corrode over time.

Why You Should Buy This

Firing off as many nails as I did made for a respectable showing for this battery-operated compressor. Its lightweight, durable, user-friendly, well-made and powerful. It’s Maybe not as stout as it claims, but strong enough for any trim project.I do wish the compressor was quieter, but Id deal with a few extra decibels rather than hassle with climbing over a pile of extension cords on the job site every day.

Where to Buy

The Metabo HPT MultiVolt 2-Gallon Cordless Air Compressor is available at Amazon and Lowe’s.

$225.29 at Amazon

The post We Tried Metabo Battery Powered Cordless Air Compressor – We Approve! appeared first on Family Handyman.

If you’re interested in creating a patio from scratch or replacing your existing one, there are lots of choices to consider. I tapped my experience sourcing and setting a flagstone patio, as well as the expert insight of Paul Knapp, founder and Landscape Designer at Landscape Architectural, to assemble this list of popular options.

Poured Concrete Patio Flooring

If you’re looking for a basic, no-frills option on a budget, consider a poured concrete patio. According to Knapp, “concrete is relatively cheap, and the labor to install is reasonable, too.” The installation will run about $10 to $15 per square foot.

I personally find the flat surface convenient for rolling grills around and keeping patio furniture level. However, some might find it less visually appealing than other more creative options. It’s possible to install yourself, but unless you’re comfortable with building concrete forms, leave this to professionals.

Longevity also can be an issue. “It’s not a matter of if it will crack, but when it will crack,” Knapp says. “It’s fairly durable, but over time, with weather conditions and seasonal changes, concrete can crack.”

Pros:

• Cheaper than most options;
• Flat surface ideal for rolling grills and furniture;
• Easy to maintain.

Cons:

• Not as visually appealing as other options;
• Will crack eventually;
• Not ideal for most DIYers to install.

Stamped Concrete Patio Flooring

Stamped concrete patio flooring is poured flooring with a pattern “stamped” onto the wet concrete with a rubber form. It’s a relatively simple way to replicate the outline of pavers, bricks, stone or other geometrical patterns without sourcing, purchasing and placing separate components.

If you can pour concrete, you can stamp your own concrete flooring. But according to Knapp, “The installer must be careful to set the form on the desired area of concrete and then be able to lift it off without messing up the imprints.” Just like poured concrete flooring, stamped versions are also susceptible to cracking over time.

Pros:

• More visually attractive than poured concrete;
• Relatively low price;
• Wide variety of patterns to choose from.

Cons:

• Installation requires experience;
• Will crack over time.

Paver Patio Flooring

Paving stones, or simply pavers, can be made of concrete or clay. Traditionally 4- x 8-in. and 2.25 inches thick, they’re available in lots of colors and can be finished with a sealer to extend their lifespan.

Costs can vary. Clay tends to be more expensive than concrete but won’t fade in the sun, so it could be worth the extra investment. Proper installation with a solid base is especially important. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a lumpy, loose and uneven patio.

If you decide to install yourself, Knapp recommends a crushed gravel or recycled concrete base. To make it, first compact your soil with a hand or machine tamper. Then install two inches of gravel and compact again. Knapp says you should shoot for six inches of gravel base for a residential patio.

Pros:

• Available in lots of shapes and colors;
• Sealant extends their lifespan;
• Clay pavers will never fade in the sun.

Cons:

• Complex installation not ideal for first-timers

Natural Stone Patio Flooring

Natural stone also called flagstone patio flooring comes in irregular shapes and sizes, terrific for those hoping to avoid the manufactured look of concrete and pavers. Like clay pavers, natural stone won’t fade in the sunlight.

The large size of natural stone pieces, the labor-intensive quarrying process and relative scarcity of the material it can only be sourced from certain areas of the country make it one of the more expensive options.

Pros:

• Will never fade in sunlight;
• Attractive, natural look.

Cons:

• Expensive;
• Challenging to install correctly.

Decorative Chip Gravel Patio Flooring

Unlike solid flooring options, gravel patios feature loose stones contained within a border of plastic or metal edging. Although this option requires compacting the ground and applying a gravel base first, then topping it with the decorative gravel of your choice, installation is less intensive than pavers or natural stone.

If you do decide to install it yourself, Knapp recommends no more than one inch of decorative gravel. Otherwise, he says, you can end up with a patio that’s too loose and uncomfortable to walk on. Gravel patios also can become messy, especially if you have kids or rambunctious pets.

Pros:

• Relatively easy DIY installation;
• Affordable.

Cons:

• Can be messy;
• Not ideal for rolling wheeled grills or furniture.

The post Homeowner’s Guide To Patio Flooring appeared first on Family Handyman.

“The answer is all of it,” says Neil Stevenson, a Charleston, South Carolina-based architect and consultant for the celebrity home renovation series Rucker’s Reno. “Every penny you have is what it’s going to cost.”

Seriously, though: If you’re smart about it, renovating an old house won’t bankrupt you, although it will undoubtedly cost more than sprucing up a newer house.

In Stevenson’s experience, historic renovations run about the same as building a new higher-end house. Broadly speaking, that’s around $475 per square foot.

“It’s a moving target depending on how crazy you want to get,” says Stevenson. “How much of the historical fabric do you want to preserve? Do you want to just make it useful for now, or scrape off 20 layers of paint to find the original color and custom mix mortar that matches exactly?”

No matter the scope of your project, it will cost more than you think. From moldings to fire damage, animals and other surprises behind the walls, our experts all agree you should add a hefty contingency to your project budget.

Here are some other line items to take into consideration when restoring older and historic homes.

Specialty Permits and Historic Zoning

If the home is in an historic district, plan on extra permitting fees, plus an architect to help navigate regulations and create a restoration plan. You’ll also need to increase your budget for materials.

“If you have a slate roof, the city is going to require that you put a slate roof back,” says architectural historian Kristopher King of Carriage Properties in Charleston, S.C., a consultant on Rucker’s Reno.

“I can put an asphalt shingle roof on a house for $15,000, but that slate roof is probably going to cost me $150,000, so it’s a massive difference. But an asphalt shingle roof will last you 15 years and a slate one 150, so typically when you resell, this market appreciates that kind of work.”

Modern Building Codes, Infrastructure and Systems

Any pre-1960s home will likely have wiring, plumbing, framing and windows that aren’t up to modern safety or comfort standards, says Bryan Slowick, president of BDS Design Build Remodel in Libertyville, Ill.

Once you start digging into those, you may be required to bring the whole system up to today’s codes. Also, some really old houses lacked kitchens, bathrooms, HVAC systems or closets. If you have to add or update them, you’ll need to open and repair plaster walls for access to pipes and wires. That’s expensive.

“I know it sounds like a lot of fun, and it is,” Stevenson says facetiously.

HVAC

According to our experts, HVAC is often the biggest challenge and cost in an old house. It’s likely you’ll need to turn a matrix of old radiators and fireplaces into a ducted system more in line with today’s comfort expectations. That can be problematic.

“Some old homes don’t necessarily have a wide enough wall cavity to run traditional HVAC,” says Slowick. If that’s the case, you might have to go with a high-velocity air-conditioning system, which has smaller ducts and can cost twice as much as a traditional unit.

HVAC was a particularly sticky problem on Rucker’s Reno. “It was truly a nightmare,” Stevenson says. “It was almost impossible what we had to do.

“The floor joists were only 11 inches deep and 3-1/2-inches wide, and there are just massive chunks of lumber, so we really had to put our thinking caps on to figure out how to run ductwork. In a large, complex house like that, it could run upwards of a half million dollars.”

Specialty Materials

Procuring original materials or fabricating new ones to match can also be costly. Old moldings, door casing and other trims often have different profiles than modern materials, and thus need to be custom milled.

“Traditional FJP (finger-jointed pine) trim might cost $2 a linear foot versus $1.50 for a newer house,” says Slowick. “For one doorway, that doesn’t add up. But if you’re talking about a whole house, you’re talking thousands of dollars.”

Other tricky materials can range from floor paint to clay-fired hearth tiles and stained-glass window repairs. On one project, Stevenson needed to replace some rotting iron gates, and the lowest price he could find was $55,000.

Windows and Doors

Door and window sizes often don’t align with modern standards. Plus, they often have outdated energy specs and poor weather resistance.

“You can rebuild windows with that historical, cool, wavy glass,” says Stevenson. “But it’s just that much more work. And you’ll need to order them from Eastern Europe, because we don’t make them here anymore.”

The good news is, if installed correctly, old-style windows can be quite energy efficient. The bad news is, while a modern vinyl window costs a few hundred dollars, the same window done historic style could be well over $1,000.

There can also be issues with non-standard size doors, or finding matching hardware. “It’s a never-ending discovery of how unique your building is when you have to pay for all of the uniqueness,” says Stevenson.

Specialty Contractors and Craftspeople

Inevitably, you’ll run into something that’s better outsourced to a skilled craftsperson. Maybe it’ll be plaster or milling or masonry. Finding skilled craftspeople experienced in older technologies can be a challenge. And, of course, those skilled people demand a higher hourly wage.

Plaster

Even if your plaster comes intact, you’ll need to cut into and repair it if you’re running new electrical, plumbing or HVAC. And plaster is more expensive than drywall.

“We’ve seen houses where the plaster was beyond salvage, but where the contractor actually put in [drywall] and then ran a skim coat of plaster mud over the top,” King says. “You get that great thud, durability and texture.”

Flooring

If you’re trying to match traditional pine wood floors, King says they’ll be more expensive to buy and install. That’s because their tongue-and-groove systems require them to be blind nailed. “Then you’ve got to sand it and finish it, instead of just buying a modern flooring system that’s already finished looking and can be laid down in a day,” he says.

Mantels

Any sort of mantel or intricate molding or cornice will likely need to be picked out and cleaned with dental picks, King says.

“What people don’t recognize is when you have a 200-year-old house, there could be anywhere from 15 to 50 coats of paint,” King says. “Removing all of that to restore the detail back is incredibly labor-intensive. There are a lot of things that require craft, and craft is what is expensive today.”

On Rucker’s Reno, Stevenson discovered he couldn’t strip the paint off the mantel, so he tracked down the plant in Scotland which originally manufactured it. Not only was the plant still open, it still had the original mold, so he could order a replica.

Historic Architects and Inspectors

All our experts emphasized that even if you plan on DIYing most of the work, it’s well worth the money to pay for consultation from an architect or contractor with historic home experience before purchasing the house. “Sometimes having someone who knows what they’re looking at on site for an hour is going to save you thousands in the long run,” says King.

A typical walkthrough runs between $200 and $500. If consultants will be more heavily involved from start to finish, the relationship could stay an hourly rate or switch to a percentage of the project budget.

Insurance

Depending on where you live, insurance hurdles for historic homes can manifest in different forms.

“In Charleston, we’re on the coast and we’re in a hurricane zone,” says King. “You can’t just go put impact-rated windows in a historic house in Charleston, so you need a local insurance carrier who can help with this.”

Another consideration is finding a policy that will cover historic replacement value. That of course will be more expensive because it covers repairs to plaster walls, wooden floors and other specialty materials. “You don’t have to do it, but it’s certainly advisable to,” says King.

“All of these things can certainly add up when it comes to restoring a historic home, but it doesn’t mean it has to take forever and cost a fortune. It’s really about making informed decisions.”

The post How Much Does It Cost To Restore an Historic Home? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Best Overall Engineered Wood Flooring

Builders Pride Misty Brazilian Oak

LL Flooring is a premier flooring retailer thats been around since 1993. The company has over 400 stores in 47 states, and it offers many flooring options, including hardwood, engineered wood, waterproof vinyl, bamboo, laminate, tile, cork, carpet and more. Our favorite editor-tested flooring from the site is the Builders Pride Misty Brazilian Oak engineered hardwood flooring for its real wood veneer and tongue-and-groove design.

Editor Cher Checchio tested and reviewed LL Flooring’s engineered hardwood floorsin her own home. She selected this floor initially because of its real wood appearance, easy installation and overall tone. She also loved the wider planksa noticeable difference from the thinner bamboo floors on her main floorthat offered a more dramatic look. Checchio installed the floors in her loft, knowing an engineered hardwood floor more resistant to seasonal changes would be most suitable.

“I spend considerable time in my home office and walk on my engineered hardwood floors daily,” Checchio says. “After almost a month, I can confidently say that these floors have held up to constant back-and-forth gliding from my desk chair to morning coffee spills. If youre uncertain about durability, longevity, price or selectiondont be. LL Flooring has something for every budget, every style, and every remodelerbe it a DIY home project or a professional installation.”

These Greenguard Gold-certified floors have a premium aluminum oxide fortified finish that makes them stain-, scuff- and scratch-resistant. The floors are 9/16 inches wide and 7.5 inches thick with a 3-mm veneer and stained finish. Plus, LL Flooring offers a 50-year residential warranty to help keep these floors looking timeless.

Pros

• Offers vinyl, solid hardwood, engineered hardwood, laminate, bamboo, cork, tile and carpet
• Over 400 stores across 47 states
• Options include wood or stone look
• Floor visualizer tool
• Up to four free samples
• Installation materials available
• GreenGuard Gold or FloorScore Certified
• Includes 30-, 50- and 100-year residential warranties
• 6-, 12-, 18- and 24-month financing available

Cons

• Free shipping only offered for local store pickup
• No locations in Alaska, Hawaii or Wyoming (can still ship to Wyoming)

Shop on LL Flooring

The post The 12 Best Engineered Wood Flooring Options, According to Testing and Reviews appeared first on Family Handyman.

BanksPhotos/Getty Images

$109.70 at Lowe's

Hardwood flooring gives a room a crisp, classic elegance, while the soft look of natural wood warms any room. It’s available pre-finished or unfinished, and in many species.

Hardwood Flooring Pros

• Long lifespan, when properly maintained;
• Durability depends on species of wood (oak is more durable, pine is less so);
• Readily available;
• Easy to clean;
• Good for DIY;
• Unfinished flooring can be stained to any shade.

Hardwood Flooring Cons

• Needs to be refinished every five to eight years depending on use;
• Can be prone to echoes or noise amplification;
• Can be slick when wet and chilly in cold temperatures.

Hardwood Flooring Cost

$5 to $12 per square foot. Price factors include board width, squares vs. planks and wood species.

The post Buyer’s Guide To Flooring Options appeared first on Family Handyman.

• There are many options for concrete floor paint on the market today. Whether youre painting your garage floor, basement flooror even your front stoop, its good to know what paint to buy.
• Drylok Concrete Floor Paint works well for basement floors. This latex-based paint is durable enough for high-traffic areas. Theres no need for a primer coat, and you can paint over previously painted floors. This paint dries fast with low odor and cleans up with soap and water. Available in various colors and white base for custom tinting. Learn how to clean concrete floors in the basement.
• Rust-Oleum’s Epoxy Shield Basement Floor Coating Kit can help change your basement into a living space. This two-part water-based epoxy applies in one coat with no primer needed. The kit includes two cans (one quart activator and one gallon base paint) with decorative chips for texture. Here find out all about epoxy basement flooring.
• Kilz Concrete & Garage Floor Paint is a one-part interior/exterior water-based floor paint. Suitable for high traffic areas like sidewalks and garage floors, it applies in one coat to concrete, masonry, stone and brick. Dries to touch in two hours. Recoat in four hours.

The post How to Paint Concrete Floors appeared first on Family Handyman.

Update Old Light Fixture

Bring your lighting up-to-date with a new light fixture. Whether you update your pendant light in the dining room or your lamps in the living room, a new light fixture is an inexpensive way to help you see your space in a whole new light.

Consider these 14 modern pendant lighting trends that will light up your life.

The post How to Make Your House Look Expensive in 20 Inexpensive Ways appeared first on Family Handyman.

Easy Chair Fix

This easy home fix is one you’ll definitely want to keep handy! Trying to keep a rickety old chair together without going through the trouble of taking it apart and re-gluing it?

The simple home fix is to just drill pilot holes and drive trim-head screws through the bottom of the rungs and into the legs.

The post 10-Minute House Repair and Home Maintenance Tips appeared first on Family Handyman.

Water-based and oil-based polyurethane each offer good protection; the biggest difference is in appearance. Polyurethane is actually the most durable hardwood floor finish.

There’s debate over which finish is harder, but some experts maintain that hardness isn’t necessarily a good attribute of a floor finish. You want a finish that will flex along with the floor. And a super-hard finish shows scratches more readily. You’ll prolong the protective life of any finish by eliminating its No. 1 enemies: dirt and grit. Sweep or vacuum the floor often and put throw rugs in high-traffic areas.

Plus, check out these tips and techniques for applying polyurethane that produce virtually flawless results. They include where wipe-on poly is better than a roller, and the best way to control dust.

Water-Based Polyurethane

Pros

• Provides a clear finish with low odor.
• If you love the natural look of maple, apply a water-based (waterborne) polyurethane.
  • Pro tip: They appear milky in the can, but go on clear and remain clear. They’ll slightly accent the character of your wood without giving it the amber tint of an oil-based poly. (However, some woods, like the oak shown, cry out for that amber tint.)
• Water-based finishes dry fast most within two hours so you can apply several coats in a day.
  • Pro tip:If you start early enough, you can apply the recommended four coats and sleep in the room that night.
• Cleans up with water too.

Cons

• Water-based polys cost twice as much as oil-based polys.
• They won’t give wood the rich glow that oil-based polys impart; some even consider them cold looking.
• Some waterborne polys go on so clear that you’ll have to mark each swath of finish as you go.
• Most water-based polys contain only 30 to 35 percent solids, compared with the 45 to 50 percent solids in oil-based products.
  • Pro tip: Since these solids create the protective finish, you need to apply four coats, as opposed to two or three.
• Whenapplying polyurethane to floors, you may need to apply additional coats every two years or so.

Oil-Based Polyurethane

Pros

• Leaves an amber glow and requires fewer coats than water-based polyurethane.
• Less expensive than water-based polys.
• Contain 45 to 50 percent solids, which creates a more protective finish.
• Require less maintenance over time.

Cons

• The five-hour wait between coats and 12-hour wait after the last coat will put a bedroom out of commission for a few days.
• You’ll have to put up with a strong odor.

Next, find out whether your floor needs waxing.

The post Water-Based vs. Oil-Based Polyurethane Floor Finish appeared first on Family Handyman.

Jeff Palla, President of Mr. Handyman, also emphasizes the importance of aesthetics when selecting basement flooring. He suggests considering how you’ll use the space and assessing the wear and tear it might face. This approach will help you choose materials that not only look appealing but also withstand the demands of everyday use.

Check out these best flooring for basement options and learn how to protect yours from moisture damage and mold growth.

Vinyl Plank Flooring/Vinyl Tile Flooring

Vinyl plank flooring (VPF) and vinyl tile flooring (VTF) are similar to click laminate flooring, but they’re better in three ways. First, VPF and VTF are impervious to liquid and vapor moisture. This matters because even seemingly dry basements can have enough moisture vapor migration to trigger mold growth.

Second, VPF and VTF are extremely durable. Both are made from the same materials, differing only in the shape of the pieces. Tiles are square and planks are rectangular. Lastly, vinyl flooring of this kind is flexible enough that it doesn’t need a super-flat surface like laminates do. “It can be applied directly to a concrete floor with an adhesive, making it easy to install,” explains Palla.

Carpet

“If youre looking to furnish a basement family room or playroom, wall-to-wall carpet is an ideal option for soft cushioned comfort on the floor,” says Brian Shaunfield, a flooring expert and Lowe’s store manager.

If you go this route, don’t make the mistake of installing carpet and underlay directly on basement concrete. Summertime mustiness is one reason why. When humid summer air enters the carpet pile and comes close to the concrete underneath, that air can cool to the dew point, releasing fine droplets of water within the carpet or underlay. That’s why finished basements smell musty.

Always install basementcarpet on top of a vapor-impervious subfloor. This will raise the temperature of the floor in winter, make your carpet more pleasant to walk on, and most importantly, prevent humid air from cozying up to the concrete and triggering mold growth.

Rubber Flooring

This is a durable, moisture-proof and informal floor that makes good sense for basements, especially utility or play areas. Rubber flooring is unaffected by moisture, both liquid and vapor. It usually comes as interlocking tiles, and it can be easily removed or reconfigured after installation if your needs change. Rubber is comfortable under foot, which is an important factor when selecting the best flooring for a basement, too.

Ceramic and Porcelain Tiles

Ceramic and porcelain tiles offer several advantages, including high durability, water-resistance and long-lasting performance, says Palla. These tough, attractive, hard-wearing picks are some of the best flooring for basement options, as long as the installation includes two important details.

First, never install hard-surface tiles such as ceramics and porcelain directly on concrete. Tiles should be installed on top of an uncoupling membrane to boost reliability. Sure, concrete is usually stable. But it can expand and contract at different rates than the tiles, causing tile cracks over time. An uncoupling membrane greatly reduces the chance of cracking because it allows a small but crucial amount of side-to-side tile movement relative to the concrete underneath.

The second issue is cold feet in chilly climates. One solution for cold tile floors is to choose an uncoupling membrane that’s made to accept electric heating cables. The best systems include built-in insulation to stop the loss of heat downward into the concrete.

Laminate Flooring

In 1993, a European company called Pergo introduced laminate flooring to North America and it has been a popular choice ever since. Today’s best laminates resist moisture, as my submersion tests have shown. They also look like real hardwood floors, without the expensive price tag.

The durability of laminate flooring is exceptional if you choose one with an abrasion class (AC) rating of three or higher on a scale of one to five. The AC rating measures the resistance of laminate flooring to abrasion.

The only problem with laminates in basements is the need for a flat floor. Most manufacturers specify no more than a 1/4 inch of deviation from flat over a 10-foot radius. And while many concrete basement floors are not this flat, it is possible to use a floor leveling compound to correct major issues. Laminates should always be installed over subfloor tiles, and the best subfloor systems accept leveling shims so you can create a stable, wobble-free installation surface.

What to Look for When Buying Basement Flooring

There are several factors to consider when choosing flooring for your basement. Its important to evaluate the moisture and humidity in your basement, as that can impact which flooring option is best so it doesnt warp or buckle,” says Shaunfield. “Depending on if you live in a more humid climate, youll want to choose a material that is more water-resistant to help prevent any mold build-up.

Shaunfield shares another important tip: Make sure the material is labeled below-grade. This means it was designed to be installed in a basement versus ground level flooring. Your personal style and budget are also important factors when shopping for flooring, he adds.

Ceramic and porcelain tiles are durable and stylish, but cost more and can be difficult to clean, shares Palla. Luxury vinyl planks are affordable and easy-to-maintain, but hard to install and remove. Engineered hardwood gives you the look of traditional hardwood, but it’s cheaper, easier to install and has more durability to heat, moisture and scratches, explains Shaunfield.

Why You Should Trust Us

Over the years, I’ve honed my skills as a carpenter, builder, stone mason, cabinetmaker and homesteader, which has informed my writing for publications like Family Handyman, Readers Digest, Canadian Contractor and more. Living in a stone and timber house that I built myself on Manitoulin Island, CanadaI bring a practical, hands-on approach to home improvement. You can rely on my recommendations, which are based on my deep understanding of construction.

We also sought input from industry professionals, including Brian Shaunfield, aLowe’s store manager and flooring expert. With decades of experience in the home improvement industry, Shaunfield boasts first-hand knowledge of sales trends and customer needs.

We also consulted Jeff Palla, the President ofMr. Handyman, aNeighborlycompany that offers home maintenance and repair services. Mr. Handyman, which has served nearly 1 million customers across North America, employs highly skilled craftsmen with an average of 10 years experience in the trades.

How We Found the Best Basement Flooring

To find the best basement flooring options, we began by researching a wide range of materials, including vinyl, laminate, carpet and engineered hardwood. We focused on products specifically designed for basement environments, prioritizing those with waterproof or water-resistant properties to protect against potential moisture issues. Additionally, we took into account real user experiences and expert opinions to evaluate performance, appearance and overall value.

The post What Is the Best Flooring for a Basement? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Olefin carpet is emerging as a popular choice in carpeting. Here’s what it is and why so many homeowners are choosing olefin carpet.

What is Olefin Carpet?

Olefin is a synthetic (manufactured) material. It’s also known as polypropylene, a type of thermoplastic used to make a wide range of household products, medical devices and more. Because it’s derived from plastic, olefin carpet is best installed in places with the potential for water damage.

Olefin Carpet Pros

• Inexpensive: Olefin carpet averages about $1.50 per square foot. That compares favorably to nylon, the most popular carpet material that averages between $3.25 and $7.50 per square foot.

• Water, mold and mildew resistant: Olefin carpet wicks away moisture, making it a great choice for basements, patios and anywhere else that could get damp.

• Does not generate static: Helpful in computer rooms and in drier climates.

• Stain resistant: Olefin carpet gets high marks for repelling stains. Most substances (but not all) simply roll off the fibers and pool at the bottom of the carpet, where they are easily spot treated. Read on to learn what olefin does not repel.

• Attractive: Olefin carpet is often made to look like more expensive wool carpet.

• Many different styles and colors: If it’s variety you’re after, olefin carpet has a lot to offer.

Olefin Carpet Cons

• Can mat easily: Olefin carpet does not hold up as well to foot traffic as other carpet materials, such as nylon. Choose a low-pile or looped, Berber carpet style to reduce matting.

• Not as durable as other carpet materials: Because it mats so easily, you won’t get as much mileage out of olefin carpet as nylon or triexta carpet. For that reason, it’s best suited for low-traffic areas.

• Absorbs oil and grease: While olefin carpet is generally stain resistant, it does not resist grease and oils. It absorbs both substances, including human oils from skin. Your best defense is to attack any carpet oil stains ASAP.

• Highly heat sensitive: It only takes a little heat to melt, burn or scorch olefin carpet. Simply dragging furniture across olefin carpet can leave lasting burn marks. Always pick up and move furniture on olefin carpet!

The post Everything to Know About Olefin Carpets appeared first on Family Handyman.

While triexta carpet has only been around for a few years, it has quickly earned its place in homes across America. Here, we explain why and share some important information about triexta carpet.

What is Triexta Carpet?

Triexta is a synthetic (manufactured) material developed by DuPont. While it shares many characteristics with polyester, triexta has several important differences in its chemical makeup that makes it a subclass of polyester.

You might hear triexta referred to by three other names: polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT), which is its technical name; Sorona, partially made from renewable corn sugar; and SmartStrand, the brand name you’ll most often encounter at carpet and home improvement stores. In addition to eco-friendly, Sorona is known for being soft, long-lasting and stain resistant. This makes it a popular material for apparel as well as carpet.

Today, DuPont continues to be the sole producer of triexta and Sorona. Mohawk Industries uses triexta/Sorona to make the SmartStrand carpet marketed to consumers.

Triexta Carpet Pros

• Stain resistant: Triexta carpet is engineered to resist stains not on its coating, but within its very fiber. To prove its point, Mohawk Industries let 10 large zoo animals and 43,000 zoo visitors trample on SmartStrand for two weeks. The result: The triexta carpet was totally cleaned with just hot water extraction.

• Relatively inexpensive: Triexta carpet averages between $2.29 and $4.48 per square foot. That offers savings over nylon, the most popular carpet material, which averages between $3.25 and $7.50 per square foot

• Water, mold and mildew resistant: Triexta carpet does not absorb water, making it perfect for basements and any other area that could get damp.

• Soft feel: Because triexta carpet doesn’t need a chemical application to achieve its famed stain resistance, it tends to be softer underfoot than nylon and polyester.

• Can be eco-friendly: Corn glucose is used to produce up to 37 percent of most kinds of SmartStrand carpet. This makes it an environmentally friendly flooring option.

Triexta Carpet Cons

• Can be hard to vacuum: Triexta carpet fibers are more dense than other carpet materials. The best way to get your triexta carpet good and clean (without tiring out your arm!) is to choose a high-quality vacuum cleaner that lets you adjust the beater brush height.

• Short track record: As a relative newcomer to the market, triexta lacks a long history to substantiate some of its claims.

Check out our guide to how to choose the best carpet for your home..

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Berber carpet is a popular flooring option worth considering. Here’s what to know about Berber carpet and whether it’s right for your home.

What Is Berber Carpet?

The defining feature of Berber carpet is its looped construction. Berber carpet features loops (made from fibers such as olefin, nylon and wool) that are sewn or tufted into the carpet’s backing. Unlike traditional pile carpet, the loops are usually left uncut. However, you’ll also find cut Berber (a.k.a California Berber) and cut-and-loop Berber, which is a combination of loops and cut loops.

Berber carpet traces its origin to the Berbers, an ethnic group native to North Africa. They are famous for their hand-woven carpets that feature distinct knot patterns.

If you have pets, watch this video to learn how to get pet urine stains out of carpet.

Modern Berber Carpet Features

When choosing a modern Berber carpet, your options include:

• Loop style: The size of the loops can vary from low and tight to high and loose. The loops can be a uniform height or they can vary in height.

• Color: While traditional Berber carpets are bright, modern Berber carpets can be virtually any color, including a vast array of neutrals. A popular option is multicolored Berber carpet with flecks of color throughout.

• Carpet fiber: The highest-quality (and priciest) Berber carpets are made from wool and nylon. Berber carpets can also be made from less-expensive olefin (polypropylene), polyester or a mix of fiber blends.

Pros of Berber Carpet

• Inexpensive: Like almost all types of carpet, Berber carpet is one of the most affordable flooring options around. This is especially true if you opt for a non-wool Berber carpet. Berber carpet made of olefin costs as little as $5 to $6 per square foot, installed. That’s a bargain when you consider that hardwood flooring averages around $8 to $22 per square foot, installed.

• Stain resistant: Most Berber carpet has a tight weave that helps it resist stains.

• Durable: Unlike cut-pile carpets with fibers that can unravel over time, the fibers in Berber carpet are woven to the backing and tend to remain intact. That’s why you often see Berber carpet in high-traffic areas and commercial buildings.

• Easy to clean: Spills tend to sit on the surface of the loops. This makes it easy to clean stains because they don’t have as much of a chance to penetrate and set in. Berber carpet with flecks of color does an excellent job disguising dirt and stains.

Cons of Berber Carpet

• Snags: If a loop gets caught, it can break and even tear out of the carpet’s backing. The most common snag culprits are vacuums, high heels and pet claws.

• Difficult to remove stains: While Berber carpets are easy to clean in general, they are not so easy to clean when stains do set into the fibers.

• Can get matted: Over time, the loops can look matted and worn. If that’s a concern, opt for a Berber carpet with small loops made out of nylon.

• Not very soft: Many (but not all) Berber carpets lack the soft feel underfoot that you get with pile carpet.

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Cheap DIY Flooring: Laminate Flooring

Laminate is one of the least expensive choices for residential flooring, because it’s been around for so long there are many different avenues to try. When it comes to cheap flooring ideas, laminate is a good choice for people who are hard on floors, so if you have children and pets, it’s a smart selection (Get to know about the best flooring for dogs). It’s also one of the hotter flooring options out there, make sure to check out the others. The new designs for laminate plank floors and laminate tiles have transformed into modern, on-trend designs. To make the choice easier take into account these ideas when choosing laminate flooring.

The post Cheap Flooring Ideas: 10 Best Low-Cost Alternatives to Hardwood Flooring appeared first on Family Handyman.

Rustic Lettered Flooring

We genuinely love this painted floor idea. The stenciled letters and numbers add a unique touch without taking away from the rustic feel of the space. While this type of flooring can be purchased as-is, DIYers can use the inspiration to create the look with paint and stencils.

The post 12 Painted Floor Ideas to Inspire Your Next DIY Project appeared first on Family Handyman.

Remove the Base Shoe

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Patterns in Wood Flooring

Wood flooring has long been a popular choice for kitchens as it is long-lasting and works in a number of decor styles. If you’re looking for trending kitchen flooring options in wood flooring, try patterns. “Specifically, we are seeing an increase of chevron or herringbone pattern designs in homeowners kitchens, bathrooms and more,” according to Sebring Design Build, a Chicago-area based design-build-remodeling company.

Pros: Hardwood kitchen flooring is easier to repair than tile.

Cons: Hardwood flooring can show wear and tear in heavy traffic areas over time.

The post 5 Kitchen Flooring Ideas That are Trending Right Now appeared first on Family Handyman.

While you’re at it, also check out these fantastic options for home gym paint colors.

What is the Best Floor for a Home Gym?

Well, that depends on what surface the flooring is going over and what kind of exercise equipment and routines you partake in. According to Men’s Health, it’s critical that all gym flooring surfaces are durable, have proper traction and have impact shock absorption. Otherwise, you run the risk of slipping, injuring yourself or incurring chronic joint pain. This buyer’s guide will help you figure out what the best home gym flooring is for your home.

Rubber Flooring

Rubber is the ultimate home gym flooring option because it’s great for covering any surface, including hard concrete floors, and can support even the heaviest exercise equipment. Rubber is popular for home gym flooring because it offers maximum durability and shock absorbency.

You can buy rubber flooring in rolls, mats or interlocking tiles in different thicknesses and sizes on Amazon. American Floor Mats has 4-foot x 6-foot rubber rolls for less than $100. Those looking to cover a larger area can check out RevTime’s 8-foot x 6-foot rubber floor mat for around $150. For interlocking rubber tiles, consider IncStores 23-inch x 23-inch interlocking tiles made from recycled rubber at $70 for four tiles.

Foam Flooring

Foam home gym flooring is like having exercise mats laid out all over the floor. Foam floor tiles interlock for easy installation and are portable. They offer comfort for floor exercises like yoga and Pilates. Foam is a lot cheaper than rubber, at $1 to $4 per square foot, but its also a lot less durable. It generally isn’t suitable for heavy equipment, super-intense workouts or to be placed over hard surfaces like concrete.

Amazon has all sorts of different options that come in a range of sizes and thicknesses, from colorful foam tiles, foam tiles that look like wood, and foam tiles that are topped with rubber, for extra durability.

Vinyl Flooring

Vinyl flooring is another great option for home gym flooring. It’s water resistant, easy to clean and helps your gym blend nicely into your living space. Rubber Flooring Inc. touts vinyl flooring as the best option for a garage or basement gym.

One reason for choosing vinyl for garage and basement gym flooring is because it’s mold, mildew and moisture resistant. It’s also extremely durable and can handle the weight of your heavy gym equipment. However, vinyl isn’t the greatest when it comes to shock absorption.

Amazon sells vinyl mats that are great for placing under heavy equipment like a treadmill. This GOPLUS PVC Vinyl mat is 6-1/2-feet x 3 feet and costs less than $40. Or, you can grab a 40-pack of 6-inch x 36-inch self-adhesive vinyl floor planks by Achim Home Furnishings for around $70 if you need to cover a larger area. They also sell 12-inch x 12-inch self-adhesive vinyl floor tiles that look like wood and are $11 for 20 vinyl tiles.

Carpet

Carpet is also popular for home gym flooring. You can have wall-to-wall carpet installed or use carpet tiles for easy DIY installation. Just make sure you select low, commercial-grade pile for good traction and stability.

Carpet can seamlessly blend in with your home decor and will likely support the weight of your exercise machinery. Most carpet, however, tends to trap sweat and moisture, and has low-shock absorption, though carpet pads can help. Anti-fatigue carpet tiles that have higher shock absorbency, too. A 20-pack of self-adhesive Nispora heavy-duty 20-inch x 20-inch carpet tiles sells for $70.

Cork Flooring

Cork flooring offers high shock absorbency and support through intense workouts. It’s also an eco-friendly option that’s resistant to fire, mold, mites and mildew, making cork flooring a good choice for basements. That, plus the fact that cork is prone to fading in direct sunlight, makes a floating cork floor a fine choice for home gyms in the basement or garage, especially.

If you need your flooring to support heavy machinery or free weights, try doubling up with glue-down cork tiles on top of a floating cork floor, or choose another flooring style.

The post The 5 Best Home Gym Flooring Ideas appeared first on Family Handyman.

Opting for the cleaning power of steam rather than harsh chemicals on your floor seems like an environmentally friendly choice. But, using steam mops on some floors can do more harm than good. So how do you decide where to use a steam mop and where to avoid it?

Here’s the low-down on whether or not to use a steam mop for cleaning floors.

Why Use the Power of Steam?

Used correctly, steam cleaning is a natural and effective way to remove stubborn dirt and stains. Once the water reaches 175 degrees F, it will sanitize surfaces effectively. Many home cleaners reach up to 245 degrees F.

There are other advantages to using the power of steam for cleaning, too. For example, steam cleaning your oven avoids exposure to potentially hazardous chemicals found in some oven cleaning products. Steam cleaning your grill gates also cuts down on the need for elbow grease.But when it comes to your floors, a steam mop isn’t always the best choice.

Which Flooring Is Safe for Steam-cleaning?

Steam mops work by producing steam under pressure and ‘forcing’ it into cracks and crevices that might get missed with other cleaning methods. Flooring that has gaps or cracks (however small) is vulnerable to damage, and materials like vinyl might warp with the heat.

So, steam mops should only be used on flooring that has no such gaps and isn’t likely to warp in high temperatures. Steam cleaning works great on ceramic tile floors

Which Flooring Could Be Damaged by Steam-cleaning?

Some manufacturers claim that sealed floors won’t be damaged by using a steam mop if it’s used at low or medium pressure. But, most experts don’t recommend steam mops for wooden or laminate flooring, or for surfaces with potential gaps such as vinyl tiles or vinyl planking. A hardwood floor may have small cracks that are invisible to the naked eye. Forcing steam into gaps and cracks can cause irreparable damage such as swelling, warping, delamination, and joint-line separation. In many cases, you’ll void your warranty if you steam-clean a wooden floor or vinyl tiles.

Learn how to clean vinyl floors the right way.

Using steam or other liquid cleaning methods can also cause a build-up of mold and mildew, perhaps leading to a musty smell as well as damage. Even engineered wood floors can be affected by using a steam mop.

How Should I Care For My Floors?

The National Wood Flooring Association recommends you mop up spills from your floor immediately to avoid damage and potential accidents. Wooden floors can be vacuumed regularly or cleaned with a barely damp mop, giving it a good clean with proprietary wood floor cleaner once a month. After five years, you may need to re-coat your floor with another layer of your original finish to keep it pristine.

Next, learn the proper steps for how to clean laminate floors.

The post Here’s Why You Need to Stop Steam Mopping Floors appeared first on Family Handyman.

Keep it Simple

If you have a dramatic roomsay one with vaulted ceilingskeep trim simple and let the space shine. While crown molding is still a popular look, avoid it in these types of rooms as it may make the space look too busy.

The post 10 New Trends in Wood Trim appeared first on Family Handyman.

Radiant Heat: Overview

This in-floor heating system consists of one thin continuous cable heating element woven into a mat that you install under the tile.

These heated floors are a project best done when overhauling or changing the floor covering of an existing room, or when adding a new room. Heated flooring can be installed as supplemental heat to take the chill out of the floor, or as space heat to warm the entire bathroom. Heated flooring is also a great winter diy home project for warming entryway and kitchen floors.

The benefits of heated floors:

• It’s easy to install. You embed a cable-laced mat in the mortar when you lay the tile. If you’re not comfortable with the wiring portion, hire an electrician.
• It’s safe. Once the in-floor heating system is installed, it’s nearly impossible to damage. The GFCI-protected thermostat instantly cuts power in the event of a short or other problem.
• It’s inexpensive. At 12 watts per square foot, our 30-sq.-ft. heated bath mat drew 360 watts of power about the equivalent of an electric blanket or large TV.
• It takes up zero space. Got a big, clunky radiator? Remove it and gain valuable square footage by installing this stuff.
• It’s versatile. If your existing furnace or boiler lacks the oomph to heat a newly remodeled or added space, an in-floor heating system can do the job.
• It’s really, really comfortable. When your feet are warm, your entire body feels warm. You’ll find yourself reading and playing games with your kids on the bathroom floor.

Special-order your custom-size mat

Various companies offer electric resistance floor warming systems. Standard sizes are available at home centers and tile stores. You can also special order custom sizes and shapes by sending a detailed drawing of the bathroom floor plan and location of fixtures.

The mats come in 12-, 24- and 30- in. widths and increments of five feet in length (10 sq. ft. minimum). When in doubt, the supplier will specify a mat smaller than you need since the mat cable can’t be cut.

Find Electrical Power

• For a heated floor area less than 20 sq. ft., you could (in most cases) draw power from an adjacent GFCI-protected outlet without overloading the circuit. (If the thermostat you purchase is already GFCI protected, like ours, you can use any outlet. In any case, the floor heating pad must be GFCI protected.) But a larger mat on an existing circuit that might accommodate a 2,000-watt hairdryer can cause overloads and nuisance circuit breaker trips. For our larger mat, we installed a dedicated circuit with its own wiring and circuit breaker. Both 120-volt and 240-volt mats are available.
• A programmable thermostat that turns the mat on during busy times, then off when you’re sleeping or away, costs more initially but will save energy and money in the long run.

The post How to Install In-Floor Radiant Heat appeared first on Family Handyman.

Estimating the Cost of a Tile Project

The tile itself will be your biggest cost, so start by measuring the square footage of the floor. Then add 10 percent for cutting waste. If you choose a more complex layout than the simple grid pattern we used, your waste will be greater.

Most tile sells for $5 to $15 per square foot, but you can spend as little as $3 or more than $50. If you have to install a backer board, add $2 per square foot to the cost of the tile. Other materials will cost about $90, regardless of the bathroom size. The tile removal tools you’ll need (including a tile cutter) will total $60 to $80.

Assess Your Floor

The success of any tile job depends on a solid base a floor that flexes very little as you walk across it. If you have a concrete subfloor, this isn’t an issue. You can lay tile directly over the existing vinyl as long as it’s well-adhered.

If possible, avoid tearing out vinyl flooring. Leaving it in place saves time, of course, but it also reduces asbestos hazard concerns. Asbestos was used in sheet vinyl and vinyl tile until the mid-1980s. By leaving the vinyl undisturbed, you won’t risk sending asbestos fibers into the air.

If you have a wood subfloor, there’s a good chance you’ll have to install a backer board over your vinyl to make the floor thicker and stiff enough for tile. The easiest way to see flooring thickness is to pull off a floor register. Otherwise, look for plumbing passageways through the floor. As a last resort, drill through the floor with a one-inch or larger spade bit (your new floor will cover the hole later).

To prevent asbestos dust from becoming airborne, mist the bit with a spray bottle as you drill. In addition to floor thickness, you’ll need to determine joist spacing. If there’s an unfinished basement or crawlspace below the floor, simply measure the spacing. If there’s a ceiling, probe for joists with a drill bit.

If the joists are spaced 16 inches apart, the layers of structural flooring beneath the vinyl should add up to at least 1-1/8-in. With joists every 24 inches, you need 1-1/2-in. If your floor is too thin for tile, add a thicker layer of tile backer board. Our floor required 1/4-in.-thick backer. Yours might need 1/2-in. backer to reach the minimum thickness.

If your floor is already thick enough, you can simply prep the vinyl floor (Photos 1 4) and skip the backer installation (Photos 5 8). Then tile directly over the vinyl, following the same steps we used over the backer board.

Regardless of the type of subfloor, there are two situations where you can’t leave vinyl in place.

First, if large areas of the vinyl are loose, don’t set tile or backer over it. Small loose spots are acceptable and easy to deal with (Photo 4).

Second, cushioned sheet vinyl must be removed before you can set tile. Cushioned vinyl has a foam backing that makes it noticeably thicker and softer than standard vinyl flooring. It’s too spongy to support tile or backer board. Before removing it, call your local health department for instructions on how to check for asbestos and proper procedures if asbestos is present.

Gather Advice While You Shop

Home centers carry everything you need for this project, but begin shopping at a tile store, where you’re more likely to get expert advice on how to lay tile.

Make a quick sketch of your floor plan and jot down all the dimensions. Also, take a photo of the floor at the doorway. This will help the tile store staff recommend a transition to neatly join the tile to the hallway flooring. Transitions come in different styles to suit any situation.

When you choose the tile itself, ask if it requires any special installation steps. Some tile should be coated with grout release before grouting. Also, ask about cutting techniques for the tile. You’ll use sanded grout for the floor. Ask if sanded caulk is available in a color that matches your grout for the floor/tub and floor/wall tile joints.

• • Pro tip: When learning how to install tile, understand that cement products like thin-set and grout draw moisture from the skin and can even cause burns that require medical attention. While most pros work bare-handed, wear gloves if you have any special sensitivity. Also, wear eye protection while mixing thin-set and grout.

Prep the Floor

• First, get the toilet out of your way. Stuff a rag in the hole to block sewer gases. If your home only has one toilet, you can leave it in place until you install the backer board. Keep a supply of wax rings on hand if you plan to reinstall the toilet at the end of each day.
• If you expect to keep your vanity for many years to come, leave it in place and tile around it. But if you think you might replace it, remove it now. When the job’s done, you can reinstall the old vanity or put in a new one. Having the vanity out of the way gives you more workspace, and you won’t have to cut backer board and tiles to fit around it. This also eliminates the floor tiling repair problem if you install a smaller vanity or pedestal sink in the future.
• Pull off the baseboard or plan to add base shoe molding. This leads to a neater-looking job because the edges of the tile will be covered later jagged cuts and slight measuring mistakes are hidden. If your baseboard has base shoe molding, remove only the base shoe. The backer board and tile will raise your floor 3/4-in. or more, so you’ll have to remove and undercut the door. To mark the door for cutting, stack backer board, tile and two layers of cardboard on the floor (see Photo 3). Mark the door 1/2-in. above the stack, remove the door and cut off the bottom.

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