Electrical Skills, Tips and Techniques | Family Handyman

An Electrician Teaches You How To Use Electrical Tape

Ally Childress — Mon, 21 Oct 2024 19:37:53 +0000

One of my first jobs as an electrical apprentice was to pull wire. No, not the 12-gauge or 14-gauge non-metallic sheathed cable (NM-B, aka Romex) you see in your home, but massive, inch-thick wires used to bring power to U.S. Bank Stadium. When a wire gets this big, they don’t bother color-coding it like the black, red, white and green you buy at the store. It comes out to the job on giant reels, and it has one color: black.

Enter electrical tape. I was given a stack of brown, orange, yellow, and gray tape and told to get busy. (On a 277-volt service, the colors are different than in your home’s 120-volt service). One problem? There’s a bit of a learned technique to taping- a technique I definitely didn’t have yet. My foreman saw me awkwardly handling the tape and came over to give me a lesson.

I know it sounds ridiculous. (Who doesn’t know how to use tape?) But electrical tape differs from Scotch tape, painter’s tape and duct tape. Below, I’ll walk you through some helpful tips and tricks. You’ll be surprised at what electrical tape can do.

Uses for Electrical Tape

Here are the most common official uses (and one non-official use) for electrical tape.

Identification. Electrical tape is fantastic for wrapping around wires to identify them by color (called “phasing”) or for making flags to write on with a permanent marker. You can also ID your breakers and label electrical boxes.
Wire pulling. Wrap electrical tape around bundles of wire to organize them, then tape the head of your bundle and fish tape to effortlessly (well, sometimes) slide the wires through walls and conduit.
Protecting terminal screws. This is slightly controversial, but a lot of electricians (including me) were taught to wrap electrical tape around the terminal screws of receptacles and switches before shoving them into the box. The idea is to prevent shock if the device is handled while energized, but it’s not required by either the National Electrical Code (NEC) or manufacturers. (Ironically, following manufacturer labeling is required by the NEC, hence the controversy.)
Splice insulation. Electrical tape comes in various materials and insulation ratings to protect splices in highand medium-voltage connections (such as utility transmission lines). This usage requires extensive training to ensure the splice is secure and protected. Never use electrical tape instead of wire nuts or other connectors.
Connecting motor leads to feeders. Motors often run 24 hours a day in dirty, greasy environments. Electrical tape protects the electrical connections against chemicals, corrosion, temperature fluctuations and moisture. Kits are sold for this purpose nowadays, but using tape this way is a time-tested skill that many electricians learn.
Minor or temporary repairs. We’ve all wrapped electrical tape around small scrapes and nicks in wire insulation, but if you can see the wire itself, do not use electrical tape to fix it.
Keeping paint scuff-free. This is my favorite non-standard use. Using a metal torpedo level on a painted wall (to level a device or faceplate, for example) leaves marks that do not come off. Wrap the edges of your level with electrical tape to keep your paint scuff-free.

How to Use Electrical Tape

To wrap electrical tape around a cable, a bundle of wires, a pipe, a fish tape or another cylindrical object, hold the tape loosely in your dominant hand, with your thumb on top of the tape. Unstick the flap on the tape. Hold the object in your opposite hand. Stick the flap to the object, hold it down and begin your wrap.

Grip the tape between your index finger and thumb, stretching it as you pull the tape toward you and down. Don’t pull off too much tape, or the roll will flop around and get twisted. You want just enough free tape to encircle the object once. Keep pressure on the tape so that it’s taut as you stick it to the object at a slight angle.

When you get underneath and to the backside of the object, flip the roll over the top with your fingers. Grab it, pull it taut and start another wrap, overlapping by half the width of the tape as you move down the length of the object. (Play around with your technique. You might like wrapping away from you and behind the object first, for example.)

When you reach the end of your taping job, grip the tape with your thumb and finger right next to the object and give it a quick jerk. This will rip the tape roll cleanly away, leaving a short flap. Fold or twist into a “buddy flag,” which makes it easy for the next guy or gal to unwrap the tape.

The post An Electrician Teaches You How To Use Electrical Tape appeared first on Family Handyman.

Home Electrical Wiring Tips and Safety

Ally Childress — Fri, 27 Sep 2024 17:31:43 +0000

Do-it-yourself electrical projects are very rewarding. You’re taking care of your own home, learning new skills and saving money on tasks that are often very doable for a smart, diligent and careful person. However, working with electricity is dangerous, and that’s why the world needs licensed electricians like me.

If you have a few projects around the house, don’t be afraid to dig in. Swapping out a light fixture, adding a USB-charging receptacle or replacing a switch with a dimmer are perfect starter tasks. Below, I’ll walk you through some common wiring tips and safety issues so you can be a more confident DIYer.

If you ever feel the task is too complex, especially regarding your electrical service panel, that’s a good time to call a pro.

Electrical Safety

The first rule of electricity club is: Turn off the breaker! Never start a project without double-checking that the power is off. Old-timers talk of when “working hot” was the norm, and I’ve had to do it a few times myself when turning off the power would cause a major disruption. It is scary as heck and dangerous. There is no need for you to do it in your home.

Carry a non-contact voltage detector in your tool bag and use it whenever you do electrical work.

Read the Instructions

“Instructions? Who needs ’em?” some may thing. Well, you do. I do, too, and that’s why I read the paperwork, especially when doing something new. Manufacturers are very detailed when it comes to explaining how to put in their devices, and the National Electrical Code (NEC) actually requires that you follow their advice. I know electricians who immediately throw away the instructions, and believe me, those are the guys (and gals) who screw things up.

Uncoil Cable Without Kinks

Non-metallic sheathed cable (NM-B), better known as Romex, is often solid copper, and it’s tough pulling it through your walls or framing if you don’t uncoil it first. Electricians have a few tricks for this, but one easy way is to grab a handful of coils from the roll and just give it a toss. Then, walk along the length and straighten it out (you can even step on it as you go). Leave the rest of the wire contained in the packaging.

Take Pictures

This tip will save you tons of time if you’re replacing a fixture or you have to take apart multiple splices. Snap a few pics with your phone before you undo anything so you can refer back to them when it’s time to put in the new fixture. Labeling your wires with electrical tape and a Sharpie will help, too.

Check the Wall Void

Cutting a hole in the wall for a switch or receptacle outlet? Find the studs first, then run your stud finder over the entire section to see if you find any other obstructions. There may be wires, pipes or blocking that could screw up the placement of your new device or your ability to pull wire.

When you cut the hole, make the horizontal cuts first. If you run into an obstruction, make that spot the new outside edge of your outlet. Then, just turn your saw around and go back the other way.

Fishing Basics

Fishing wire through walls is an exercise in patience and perseverance. There’s nothing more depressing than hearing the “thunk” of your fish stick (aka glow rod or fish rod) hitting a header you didn’t realize was there. If you plan on renovating a lot, invest in a set of quality fish sticks and a long flex bit for drilling in hard-to-reach spaces.

If you’re just adding a single receptacle, and you have access to the top of the wall, use your tape measure as an impromptu fish stick. Just drop it down to your new outlet, tape a string or your Romex right to it, and pull it up through the cavity.

Make No-Snag Connections

Fish tape, a thin, flexible metal or nylon wire-pulling tool, is often used to snake wire through pipes. It also works well through walls, floors and studs, as long as the hooked end doesn’t get snagged on something. To make a smooth transition on the end of your fish tape, strip off six to eight inches of the sheathing from your NM-B cable.

Cut off all but one wire, trimming the cable at a steep angle to avoid leaving a “shoulder.” Slide the single long wire through the end of the fish tape, fold it over, and wrap the electrical tape tightly around the entire head (including the cut-off edge of the Romex). As you wrap the tape, smooth out any bumps to make the head as smooth as you can.

Pack Boxes Neatly

I just replaced a receptacle with one I can charge my phone with, and the box was so messy that I spent an hour straightening up the wires. Jammed boxes with lots of extra nonsense call you out as an amateur, so take the time to neatly fold and push bundles of wires to the back of the box, using pigtails or short pieces of wire to attach to the device (when you have room).

Speaking of room, stuffing too many wires in an electrical box is a code violation. The NEC periodically updates “box fill” requirements, so find out which code cycle your jurisdiction follows to ensure you’re keeping things legal.

Label Your Breakers

This is a fantastic entry-level project that makes your life easier and your house safer. When I moved into my current house, I needed to turn off the dishwasher circuit to replace a drain pump. Was it the breaker labeled “dishwasher”? Nope! That one controlled the countertop receptacles. For some reason, electrical panels are very rarely properly labeled.

Enlist a friend, and start flipping breakers. If you don’t have a willing pal, buy a circuit tracer, which is very affordable nowadays, a receptacle tester, or just use a loud radio. Plug it in, turn it up, and flip the breakers until the radio goes off. Once you have the breakers worked out, label them somewhere inside or near the electrical panel.

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15 Electrical Mistakes Homeowners Make

Ally Childress — Fri, 06 Sep 2024 16:15:56 +0000

Using a Non-Contact Voltage Tester Incorrectly

Mistake: Misusing your tester.

Electricians always carry non-contact voltage testers with them, and you should have one, too. They’re inexpensive and easy to use, and they help keep you safe when doing DIY electrical work.

Solution: Test. Use. Verify.

First, test the tester by holding it to a known live circuit, like a powered appliance or lamp cord. Or, insert it into a receptacle (use the smaller slot, which is the hot side). The tester should light up and/or beep. Locate the circuit you’ll be working on and turn off the breaker. Use the tester to verify the circuit’s off, then check the tester on the same live circuit as before to confirm it functioned correctly.

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How Does a DIY Solar Water Heater Work?

Chris Deziel — Tue, 13 Aug 2024 19:02:44 +0000

The Department of Energy estimates that heating water accounts for 18 percent of a typical home’s energy usage, so if you could use the sun’s energy for this task, you could enjoy significant savings on your energy bill. That’s what a solar water heater does, and while it may look like a PV panel from the ground, it’s much easier to build and install.

Judging from the number of panels and storage tanks I saw on rooftops when I lived in Japan in the ’90s, homeowners in some other countries are more tuned into this energy-saving strategy than Americans. Al Ruggie of Phoenix-based ASAP Restoration laments: “For sure, we have never installed a solar hot water heater on a home for a client because we wouldn’t be able to warranty the unit since (as far as I know) they aren’t made by any single company that offers one. And (sadly, I’ll admit) despite being in Phoenix where it’s sunny year-round, I rarely see solar hot water heaters on local properties.”

The California property on which I live was off-grid when we moved in (it still is, but we’re working on that), and besides PV panels, it had a large solar water heating panel. It was homemade, too bulky and unwieldy to put on the roof, so we never used it. And that begs a caution for anyone considering a DIY solar water heater: Don’t forget to include hoisting it onto the roof, securing it against high winds and connecting it to your hot water supply as part of your overall plan.

What Is a Solar Water Heater?

A solar water heater heats water using the sun’s energy and circulates it into the household’s hot water supply. There are several ways to build one, but one of the most common is to construct a collector panel with an in-built network of tubing through which water can circulate. Cold water enters at one end, and water heated by radiation absorbed by the collector comes out the other.

Solar hot water systems of yesteryear were often leaky, failure-prone and ineffective (like our bulky panel), but the industry has matured. Today, you can choose between super-efficient, professionally installed collectors and less-expensive DIY-friendly solar hot water heater systems.

How Does a Solar Water Heater Work?

All solar water heaters have one feature in common: the ability to absorb heat from sunlight and transfer it into water. Systems differ, however, in the way they store and circulate water.

Passive systems rely on the thermosyphon effect the fact that hot water is less dense than cold water and tends to rise above it. These systems usually include a holding tank positioned above the solar collector (this is the type of system I often saw on Japanese rooftops). On a sunny day, water heated in the collector rises into the tank, and an outlet feeds the heated water into the building by the force of gravity.

Active systems circulate water using a mechanical pump, and there are two types:

A direct system circulates water into a holding tank in the building, which is usually just a standard tank-style water heater.
An indirect system circulates a heat-transfer fluid like ethylene glycol (anti-freeze) through a heat exchanger, which is simply a system of coils installed inside a water heater tank. The fluid exchanges heat with the water in the tank rather than heating the water directly. This type of system prevents water contamination and is better for colder climates because it resists freezing.

Will a Solar Water Heater Work for Your Home?

As with all things solar, the number-one prerequisite for a solar water heater is enough direct sunlight to make it work. If you have a sunny spot on your roof or property large enough to set one up (it doesn’t have to be on the roof), you can save energy by feeding heated water into your existing water heater or circulating it through your plumbing directly from a rooftop tank.

You can benefit even if you live in a cold climate because you can either install a freeze-proof heat-exchange system or a system you can drain in the winter when temperatures are below freezing.

How Much Does a Solar Water Heater Cost?

This depends on how much of it you DIY. If you build your own collector, install it yourself and hook it up to your existing water heater, the cost could be as low as $1,000, depending on the materials you use. The cost to purchase the components as a kit is between $1,500 and $6,000, and if you have the system professionally installed, add about $3,000.

Solar water heaters qualify for the Renewable Energy Tax Credit, a federal program that reimburses 30 percent of the cost of purchase and installation. In addition, some states and communities may provide additional incentives. To qualify, the system must be rated by the Solar Rating and Certification Corporation (SRCC) or a comparable entity, which may include some commercial DIY kits.

How To Make a DIY Solar Water Heater

As mentioned, the most common DIY solar water heater consists of a collector, a coil network, a cold water inlet and an outlet for hot water. Here’s a very basic outline of the procedure for building one:

Build the collector box using lightweight plywood (1/4 to 3/8 inches thick) for the base and 1-by-4-inch cedar for the frame. Seal all joints with silicone caulk.
Insulate the interior of the box with 1-inch foil-backed foam insulation with the foil facing outward.
Construct a coil that fits snugly in the box using 3/4-inch copper tubing and elbow fittings. Maximize the number of turns in the coil to lengthen the path of water flowing through the collector.
Extend one end of the coil through a bottom corner of the box for the cold water inlet and the other end through the diagonally opposite corner for the hot water outlet. Solder an adapter onto each end so you can attach a garden hose or plumbing pipe.
Cover the collector box with glass and use silicone caulk to seal the edges and keep out rain.
Mount the collector on the roof or the ground in a southerly direction to maximize solar exposure.
Connect a cold water hose or supply pipe to the inlet and a hot water hose or pipe to the outlet. Run the hot water supply to a holding tank, which may be in the house or on the roof. The plumbing connections vary depending on the configuration.

Pros and Cons of Solar Water Heaters

Pros

Energy savings: You’re heating water for free. Whether you use it directly from a rooftop tank or use it to fill your water heater, you’ll save money.
Low maintenance: Once the system is up and running, you can basically forget about it. If you’re circulating a heat-transfer fluid, however, you may have to replace it periodically.
Eco-friendly: A solar water heater is an effective way to reduce dependence on fossil fuels for home heating.

Cons

Depends on the weather: A solar water heater won’t work on cloudy or rainy days or at night. Insulating the storage tanks helps mitigate this drawback.
Winterization: You need to prepare for freezing temperatures, either by using a heat-transfer fluid or draining the pipes and shutting down the system in the winter.
Cost: In general, a solar water heater costs significantly more than a conventional one, even if you build it yourself.

FAQ

How long does a solar water heater keep water warm?

In a properly insulated storage tank, water heated in a solar water heater during the day should stay hot overnight and possibly longer, depending on how much you use.

How much solar power do I need to run a solar water heater?

The amount of solar energy a solar water heater uses depends on a number of factors, including the amount of available sunlight, your water usage and the size of the collector panel. As a rule of thumb, plan on 10 square feet of panel space for each person in the household.

What’s the lifespan of solar water heaters?

A solar water heater can last from 10 to 25 years, although this depends on climate, the configuration of the system and the materials used to build it.

Do solar water heaters need a pump?

If a solar water heater’s storage tank isn’t mounted above the collector to take advantage of the thermosyphon effect, you need a pump to circulate water through the coil and into the tank. A solar-powered pump doesn’t use any extra energy, but if you plug a circulation pump into your electrical system, it will consume from 25 to 150 watts of power when it’s running.

The post How Does a DIY Solar Water Heater Work? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Save Money On Your Utility Bills By Filling Gaps Around Electrical Outlets

Brad Holden — Mon, 24 Jun 2024 18:31:40 +0000

Electrical outlets and switches on exterior walls can leak a lot of cold outside air into the house. Add up all the outlets in the average house, and you can experience some serious heat loss, which makes it worth spending 10 minutes per outlet plugging the holes.

Before you start, flip the circuit breaker off and use a noncontact voltage tester to ensure theres no power. Remove the cover plate. If the gap between the electrical box and the drywall is less than 1/4 in., fill it with acrylic latex caulk. If the gap is bigger and lopsided, use foam sealant thats formulated for use around doors and window framing. The minimally expanding foam wont drip down your walls.

After the foam dries, cut away any that protrudes, add a foam gasket (to reduce drafts through the box) and replace the cover plate. Do the same around register openings on the inside of exterior walls.

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GFCI vs. AFCI Outlets: What’s the Difference?

Ally Childress — Tue, 07 May 2024 16:38:21 +0000

If you’ve spent any time around DIY websites and home improvement stores, you’ve likely heard about GFCI vs. AFCI outlets. These important electrical safety devices, technically called “receptacles”, are likely installed in your house right now. But what are they? How to they work? And, if you don’t have them, do you need to run out and get some?

When I was an electrical apprentice, I got shocked so hard it knocked me down. That incident could have been prevented with a GFCI. Later, I spent the better part of a month installing AFCI protection in hundreds of college dorms, only to find out I didn’t have any in my own home. I remedied that quickly, let me tell you! And you can, too.

Find out all you need to know about AFCI vs. GFCI outlets ahead.

What is a GFCI Outlet?

A GFCI outlet (receptacle) protects against electric shock by monitoring the electrical current flowing through the GFCI. If there’s even a tiny difference (4 to 6 milliamps) between the hot and neutral wires, the GFCI assumes the stray current could be going through a person, and de-energizes almost instantly.

To put 4 to 6 milliamps in perspective, 10 milliamps can cause people to lose the ability to let go of an object, and at approximately 100 milliamps you’re at risk of death (depending on several factors like age, weight and exposure time).

What does GFCI stand for?

Ground fault circuit interrupter. GFCI protection can be provided by receptacles or breakers, and they must be installed in a readily accessible location so you can reach them if they trip.

What is a ground fault?

A ground fault is a type of short circuit that happens when a hot wire comes in contact with a part of an electrical installation that’s not supposed to be energized, like an electrical box, or the outside of your toaster or washing machine.

If you happen to be touching the electrified object, the current could go through you unless the circuit quickly de-energizes.

Are GFCIs required?

Yes. Because GFCIs are safety devices, the National Electrical Code (NEC) mandates their use in specific rooms and circuits in new construction, like:

Bathrooms
Kitchens
Sinks (within 6 feet)
Outdoors
Basements and crawl spaces
Garages and outbuildings
Laundry areas
Other damp and wet locations, as well as specific appliances like dishwashers and sump pumps

Always check with your local jurisdiction to see what’s required.

Do GFCI outlets go bad?

They can, so it’s a good idea to test them monthly. Have you ever tested yours? People rarely do, so since 2015, GFCIs have had an internal self-test function. Once a GFCI reaches the end of its lifespan, it shuts off power to the device (indicated by a light on the front).

Even with self-testing, you should still do a manual test every month to check the mechanical tripping mechanism.

How to wire a GFCI outlet

There are two sets of connections on a GFCI: Line and Load. These will be clearly marked, and if the GFCI is new there will be a piece of yellow tape over the load connections. Only use the load side if you’re protecting other devices on the same circuit.

To wire a single GFCI, use the line terminals. The hot wire goes on the brass screw, the neutral on the silver. To protect receptacles “downstream” of the GFCI, remove the yellow tape and use the load side screws to connect to the next receptacle.

Always properly ground the receptacle and circuit using the green ground screw.

How to reset and test a GFCI outlet

A GFCI has two buttons: “Test” and “Reset.” To test a GFCI, press the “Test” button until you hear an audible click. This opens the contacts inside the device, indicating that the GFCI is operational. Then, hit the “Reset” button to put things back into place.

If your GFCI trips, push the “Reset” button to reset it. Occasional trips are fine, but if it happens frequently, get it checked out by a licensed electrician.

Another way to test a GFCI is to use a GFCI receptacle tester. Plug the tester in and hit the button. You should hear a click, and the power light will go off. Remove the tester and reset the GFCI using the Reset button.

What is an AFCI Outlet?

An AFCI receptacle (aka outlet) protects your home from fires by constantly monitoring the circuit for evidence of dangerous electrical arcs. An AFCI can sense the difference between brief, regular arcs inherent in certain electrical applications (like a light switch), and abnormal ones caused by a worn wire.

What does AFCI stand for?

Arc-fault circuit interrupter. Just like a GFCI, AFCI protection can be provided by receptacles or circuit breakers, and they must be readily accessible.

What is an arc fault?

An arc fault is a type of abnormal electrical discharge. Damaged wires and improper connections can cause electricity to “jump” between damaged sections of a conductor, or between multiple conductors, placing nearby combustible materials at risk.

Are AFCIs required?

Yes. Almost every room in newly-constructed homes requires AFCI protection, including bedrooms, living rooms, dining rooms, kitchens, laundry rooms, hallways and closets. Basically, the only places you don’t need AFCIs are bathrooms and garages, but always verify with your local code authority.

Do AFCI outlets go bad?

They can go bad, so they should be tested monthly, just like GFCIs.

How to wire an AFCI outlet

Wire an AFCI receptacle just like a GFCI. Use the line side to bring power to the AFCI receptacle, and the load side to provide AFCI protection to the rest of the circuit. Always properly ground the receptacle and circuit using the green ground screw.

How to reset and test an AFCI outlet

To test an AFCI receptacle, push the “Test” button on the front. You should hear an audible click. Reset the AFCI by pushing the “Reset” button. You can also purchase an AFCI receptacle tester (often combined with a GFCI tester) to test the receptacle.

What’s the Difference Between GFCI and AFCI Outlets?

Both AFCI and GFCI protection monitor circuits for electrical faults, and shut off power to the device when they detect a problem. The difference is that AFCIs protect your home from fires, while GFCIs protect people from electrical shock.

GFCI vs. AFCI Outlets: Which Is Right For Me?

In new construction, AFCI vs. GFCI usage will be determined by code requirements. The NEC is published every three years, occasionally adding locations that need protection. States and cities adopt the code at different intervals, so depending on where you live you may have different requirements.

In older homes, you are not required to retrofit your existing fault protection unless you update your wiring. But, because adding AFCI and GFCI protection is as easy as swapping out one receptacle per circuit, you can add these important safety devices at any time. Just follow the NEC to know which one goes where, and make sure they’re readily accessible.

FAQs

How can you tell if an outlet is GFCI vs. AFCI?

It’s a little hard to tell AFCI vs. GFCI, but they’re labeled on the front of the device. You may also see a sticker on the outside of a regular receptacle (outlet) if it is protected by another device. Stickers are provided for this purpose when you buy AFCI and GFCI receptacles.

Are GFCIs or AFCIs surge protectors?

No. Surge protectors suppress voltage spikes from lightning and other power surges. Surge protectors have a maximum number of joules (a unit of energy) they can absorb before you need to get another one. AFCIs and GFCIs have no specified limits of protection.

Do GFCIs or AFCIs prevent fires?

AFCIs prevent fires. GFCIs protect people from shock.

Can I use a GFCI or AFCI breaker instead of an outlet?

Yes. The NEC requires AFCI and GFCI protection, not receptacles or outlets. Breakers are a convenient way to accomplish the required protection.

The post GFCI vs. AFCI Outlets: What’s the Difference? appeared first on Family Handyman.

How to Replace a Light Fixture

Samuel Rosenmayer — Fri, 05 Apr 2024 17:46:28 +0000

Over time, light fixtures can become outdated and require replacement to improve energy efficiency and provide adequate lighting for your space. But before you start shopping for new fixtures, let’s review a few things to consider.

First, you’ll want to determine what size light fixture would fit the ceiling space and how much light you need in the room. Also, consider whether the ceiling is flat or sloped and whether the existing electric box is compatible with the new light fixture. It’s also a good idea to check if the ceiling needs any drywall or paint repair work beforehand. You’ll avoid any inconvenience in the long run by taking the time to do this prep work.

When selecting the perfectceiling light, the options are limitless. I quickly found a fixture that perfectly fit above my kitchen table. Since I was replacing the outdated golden hardware in the house with brushed silver, I chose the same color for the ceiling fixture. It’s incredible how small changes can completely transform a room within a few hours. Additionally, by increasing the height of the new ceiling fixture by a few inches, this small room felt more modern and spacious.

Tip:If your old light fixture is still in good condition, donate it to a nonprofit like Habitat for Humanity instead of throwing it away.

Do you need an electrician to change a light fixture?

Any DIYer canreplace a light fixture, but you may require assistance from a second person in order to hold a heavy fixture while it is being removed or installed. If you come across aluminum wiring, uncover charred or melted wiring or insulation, or are uncomfortable on ladders, it is best to leave the job to an experienced professional.

Turn off the power

Turn off thecircuit breakerthat controls the light’s circuit.

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12 Facts About LED Christmas Lights You Should Know

Rachel Brougham — Tue, 26 Mar 2024 23:40:26 +0000

LED Lights Cost More Money Upfront

LED Christmas lights will cost you more money upfront because components are often assembled by hand. But you’ll save money in the long run on your Christmas lights electric bill since LED lights use 75% less energy than incandescents.

And because LED lights use less energy, you’ll reduce greenhouse gas emissions, giving the environment a little help along with your power bill. LED lights also last longer so you don’t have to replace a strand of them as often. And since they need conducting material to dissipate heat and dispense a natural white glow, they’re often coated with yellow phosphor.

Do you know these things about LED lights:

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We Tried Kasa Smart Switches, and They Seriously Upgraded Our Home Lighting

Shay Tilander — Fri, 22 Mar 2024 21:06:00 +0000

Admittedly, Im a tech nerd. I love tweaking settings on my router, adding new functionality to old gaming systems and, of course, embracing all things smart home. When I heard that controlling lights with your voice or phone came into vogue, I jumped on the bandwagon.

I started out with smartplugs, trying different brands until I landed on the Kasa line by hardware manufacturer TP-Link. Other brands had wonky integration with Google Assistant (sorry, Alexa lovers), and didnt work as well as I had hoped. With the Kasa line, everything works as it should and integration is easy. After graduating from the smart plug world, I upped my game by delving into smart switches, so here’s my experience testing the Kasa smart switch.

What is the Kasa smart switch?

Smart switches are essentially light switches that connect to your home Wi-Fi network, allowing you to operate them from anywhere via voice commands or an app on your phone. Each Kasa smart switch is made by TP-Link, a company known for its routers, modems and other home networking devices. The Kasa line also has smart light bulbs, security cameras and smart plugs.

VIA MERCHANT

$22.99 at Amazon

$38.20 at Walmart

We Tried It

Kasa Smart Switch

Meet the Kasa smart switch, a motion-sensored light switch with dimming capabilities that you can control from your phone.

Kasa Smart Switch Features

Kasa’s smart switch lineup consists of three models: The HS200 is your basic, regular light switch; the HS210 is made to replace a three-way switch; and the HS220 is a regular switch that offers dimmer controls. I tested the HS210 and the HS220.

Controlling Kasa devices is done through the Kasa app, available for download in the Google Play Store (Im an Android user) and the Apple App Store. They can also be voice controlled with Google Home, Amazon Alexa and Microsoft Cortana, as well as IFTT, Nest and more. The app is streamlined and offers a nice user experience for Kasa smart switch owners. All of your devices show up on the main page in a group with other Kasa products (smart plugs, smart switches, bulbs and more). If you have TP-Link cameras, you can control them here, too.

Once connected, use the app to set up routineshaving certain products come on in the morning and go off at night, for instance. For further functionality you can set up integrations with other smart products.

The Kasa smart switch comes in a decora (rocker) style, not the traditional toggle style. The rest of the switches in my home are toggle style, so I’d love to see them roll this option out eventually.

How We Tested It

Installation

Installing the smart switches is just like installing any regular light switch. However, Im no electrician, so it took a little fiddling to get them to work properly. It was fairly straightforward and easy enough for the average user, though.

Since I already had the Kasa app on my phone, I launched it to learn the installation steps. From the main screen, tap the + sign in the upper-right corner. Kasa asks if you’re adding a new device or setting up a group to control multiple devices simultaneously. I chose device. Next, pick the type of device. In this case Smart Switches. Then, the type of switch. I chose Smart Three-Way Switch and Smart Dimmer for the other install.

Here’s where the install instructions really begin. The app asks if you’ve already installed the device. If you click Not Yet, it walks you through the basic wiring process, with a bold warning: If you are unfamiliar with basic electrical wiring, please consult an electrician. Noted!

The app prompts you to test your Wi-Fi strength (to connect the device to your network), and tells you what tools youll need for the projectin this case, a couple of screwdrivers, pliers and a continuity tester, which I dont think I used. From there, the app gives a basic rundown of three-way switches and asks you to enter the number and color of the wires you’re working with. After entering the information, the appwith really nice renderingsguides you through how to remove the old switch and replace it with the new one. It prompts you to take pictures and label wires along the way.

For the most part, this is all straightforward. I had some minor blunders along the way. But that’s just how any home DIY project goes. I had trouble installing the dimmer switch, not because of the product itself, but because of the wires I had in my box. My particular set has a single dimmer along with a three-way switch. There was an extra wire in my configuration that didn’t match what I found in the Kasa app. In the end, I grouped it with a bundle of same-color wires and everything worked perfectly.

Wi-Fi Setup

I had to connect the switches to my Wi-Fi network. Again, the app walked me through the process. These switches operate on the 2.4 gigahertz (GHz) band on your router, like most smart home devices. Following the apps instructions, setup was simple. The switch uses your phone to piggyback onto the homes Wi-Fi network during setup. Then, it communicates directly with your router.

After the Kasa smart switch is configured, you can turn it on and off with the app. When you push the app button to the corresponding switch (or smart plug), the device turns on instantly. There’s no lag time between touching the phone screen and the device activating, which is pretty cool.

During setup, you can name your app. Choose monikers like outside lights, hallway lights, toy room, etc. You can also change these later within the app. There are little icons to assign to each device, representing what it controls to streamline the appearance and function.

Smart Home Integration

Depending on which smart home ecosystem you have, connecting the Kasa hardware is really a snap. I’m a Google Home and Assistant user. That made it easy for the Google Home app to automatically find the connected switches and place them on the main screen. From there, I just had to move them to the correct room and set up any groups I wanted. Amazons Alexa is similar, which makes setting up theKasa smart switchwith any other smartaccent lightinga breeze.

To access the voice control features, you need Google Home-, Amazon Alexa- or Microsoft Cortana-equipped speakers or other devices. My home already had several Google Home speakers to test out. Once connected, it allows you to use voice commands like, OK, Google, turn on the outside lights, or OK, Google, dim the basement lights.

Update: Two Years Later

Eventually, the switch in my garage that controls our outside lights stopped connecting to our Wi-Fi network. It isnt far from the router, so I didn’t believe that was the issue. Then I thought it might be this: Our dual-band Wi-Fi mesh router broadcasts the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz bands simultaneously under a single SSID (the name you see when connected to your network). Kasa switches use the 2.4 GHz band. To connect to the network, the switch piggybacks onto my phone, before connecting directly with the router. My phone defaults to the 5 GHz band, so that could be the issue.

Pros

Easy installation with step-by-step instructions
Can be controlled via app, Google Home, Amazon Alexa, Microsoft Cortana, IFTT or Nest
Affordable
Features a motion sensor
Senses daylight to save power
Dimmer ranges from 1% to 100%
Works with other Kasa devices
No hub required
Two-year warranty

Cons

Wire work can be tricky
Not available in traditional toggle style

What Other Reviewers Had to Say

From over 2,500 ratings on Amazon, the Kasa smart switch has earned an average of 4.5 out of five stars. Here’s what people are saying:

“We swapped out a regular light switch for this one in our main bedroom, which is on the larger side and being lazy during TV time at night, we didn’t want to get up to turn on/off the light,” shares Mike, a five-star reviewer. “This inexpensive upgrade did the trick. I didn’t realize at the time that this also has motion detection if you want, so we set the motion to turn on lights between 9 p.m. to 11 p.m. when we enter the room. Just a cool feature that you can program or not.”

Marcy Thompson, a verified purchaser, says, “We have used Kasa for several light switches in order to control and schedule some exterior lights, and now we have chosen to use these timer and automated light switches inside. They work great, are easy to install and illuminate lights being left on.”

“I got this motion sensor light for my laundry room (because I am usually carrying something in there and it’s hard to get to the light switch), and it was quick to install and does the job. I rarely have any issues with any of their products and have been using them for years. I just keep adding more and more switches and plugs by them, and it all just works. 10/10 for TP-Link! One of my favorite brands!” writes another five-star reviewer, Robert V.

Final Verdict

I definitely recommend the Kasa line of smart switches. The brand’s app is easy to understand and easy to use. Plus, if you have other smart products from its line, you can control them all with the sameKasa smart switchapp.

Smart assistant integration makes the whole experience even cooler. The products are affordable, considering the many features, and the minimalist design integrates easily into almost any decor.

Where to Buy the Kasa Smart Switch

Snag your own Kasa smart switch atAmazon or Walmart for $40. It comes at a discounted rate if you buy two or three in a set, which I recommend going for anyway since you won’t be able to choose just one room to put this helpful gadget in.

VIA MERCHANT

$22.99 at Amazon

$38.20 at Walmart

We Tried It

Kasa Smart Switch

Your home is about to get much smarter, thanks to the Kasa smart switch, an easy-to-install light switch that responds to your commands.

The post We Tried Kasa Smart Switches, and They Seriously Upgraded Our Home Lighting appeared first on Family Handyman.

17 Handy Hints for DIY Electrical Work

Family Handyman — Fri, 22 Mar 2024 20:42:55 +0000

Easy-to-Read Circuit Breakers

I had to switch off a few circuit breakers in my basement and found it hard to see the stamped numbers on the electrical panel because its pretty dark down there. Tired of squinting, I decided to make them easier to see with a little bit of white painters caulk. I put a dab on each of the numbers and wiped off the excess with my finger, leaving behind easy-to-read numbers. Casey Overland

The post 17 Handy Hints for DIY Electrical Work appeared first on Family Handyman.

How to Build Faux Basement Windows That Provide Real Light

Brad Holden — Thu, 12 Jan 2023 19:14:43 +0000

Cutting List

Overall dimensions: 55-in. H x 31-in. W x 1-3/4-in. D

KEY	QTY.	PART	DIMENSION
A	2	Front frame top and bottom	3/4″ x 4″ x 31″
B	2	Front frame sides	3/4″ x 4″ x 47″
C	2	Back frame top and bottom	3/4″ x 4″ x 23″
D	2	Back frame sides	3/4″ x 4″ x 55″
E	2	Top and bottom trim	Cut to fit
F	1	Side trim	Cut to fit

Build the Front Frame

The frame consists of a front and a back, each cut from 3/4-inch medium density fiberboard (MDF). Determine the frame size needed for your light panel, then cut the front and back frame pieces. We chose a four-inch wide frame for our LED panel. Youll have to decide what looks best in your room.

The front and back frames are the same size, but the lengths of some parts differ, so the joints of the two frames overlap. Assemble the front frame with glue and pocket screws.

The post How to Build Faux Basement Windows That Provide Real Light appeared first on Family Handyman.

Common Dryer Repairs You Can Do Yourself

Family Handyman — Thu, 22 Dec 2022 18:21:38 +0000

Heres the first thing to know about dryer repair: You can solve some common dryer troubles yourself. Theres no need to find a technician, schedule a service call or pay hundreds dollars for dryer repair.

The dryer repair fixes we show in this article correct about 90 percent of dryer breakdowns. Most repairs take about an hour, but set aside extra time to locate replacement parts. Aside from basic tools like a socket set and screwdrivers, you may need a continuity tester or multimeter to diagnose the problem.

Unplug Your Dryer Before Repairing It

The first step in any appliance repair is to make sure its getting electricity. Unplugged cords and tripped breakers are a leading cause of appliance breakdowns.

How to Disassemble a Dryer

Most kinds of dryer repair require some disassembly of the outer cabinet so you can get at the parts inside and you might not even need a dryer repairman. Dryer disassembly is slightly different depending on where the lint filter is located. For gas dryers, most repairs require that you remove the top and front (not the back or sides) to access the parts.

If your dryers lint filter is inside the front door, disassemble it this way: First, remove the screws at each corner of the control panel. Flip the panel up and back to expose the screws in the top panel. Remove the screws, then pull the top toward you and lift it off. To open the bottom panel, release the spring catches by shoving a putty knife into the slot just above them. With the bottom panel open, you can remove the front panel by removing two screws at the top and two at the bottom.

If your filter slides into the top of the dryer, remove the screws alongside the filter slot. Using a putty knife, release the two spring catches located under the top panel at the front. Tilt the top panel up like a car hood and remove the screws that hold the front panel in place.

How to Fix a Dryer That Won’t Start

If your dryer seems absolutely dead when you turn it on, chances are the door switch is bad or the plunger is broken or bent. Door switches wear out from normal use, but repeatedly slamming the door can speed up their demise.

Start by checking the plunger located on the door for dryer troubleshooting. If its missing or bent, replace it. If the plunger checks out, the next step of dryer troubleshooting is to remove the top cabinet panel to gain access to the door switch. See the disassembly instructions.

Test the switch for continuity. If the switch is good, test the thermal fuse mounted on the blower housing. However, if you have a gas dryer with the lint filter in the door, access the thermal fuse by opening the bottom panel. If the filter slides into the top of the machine, remove the entire front panel. On an electric dryer, remove the rear service panel.

If you dont get a continuity reading from the thermal fuse, do NOT simply replace it. A blown thermal fuse is a warning that you have other serious problemseither a malfunctioning thermostat or a clogged vent. Fix those before continuing the dryer repair and replacing the fuse.

What to Do if Your Dryer Is Making Noises

If your dryer is making thumping or rumbling sounds, the most likely culprit is worn out drum support rollers. Replace all of them. If the noise continues, replace the tensioner roller (see below). Since it takes longer to disassemble the machine than to actually replace the rollers and belts, we recommend replacing both of them at the same time.

Dryer Isn’t Heating

If you’re dryer isn’t drying clothes, the first thing to do is check the airflow from the dryer vent tube. It gets clogged with lint, preventing airflow and causing it to take a long time to dry clothes, if it’ll dry them at all. If that’s not it, there are a few other common fixes for a dryer that isn’t drying, everything from checking the breaker box to cleaning the lint filter.

However, there are other problems that could cause a dryer to tumble but not heat. If that’s the case, check the thermal fuse for continuity. If the thermal fuse checks out, move on to the radiant sensor, if you have a gas dryer. It monitors the igniter and powers up the gas valve coils when the igniter reaches peak temperature.

A bum sensor will stop the whole show. Test it for continuity and replace it if it fails. If the sensor is good, disconnect the electrical connector to the igniter and check it for continuity. Again, replace it if it fails the continuity test.

If both the radiant sensor and the igniter pass the test, replace the gas valve coils. To replace them, remove the retaining plate, unplug the sensors and pull them off the gas valve.

If the thermal fuse on your electric dryer checks out, test the heater element for continuity. Replace the element if you dont get continuity.

Dryer Doesn’t Rotate

It might be a broken belt. To replace the belt, remove the front cabinet panel and lift the entire drum out of the cabinet. Then, fire up your shop vacuum and suck out all the lint. Then spin the tensioner roller by hand to see if it runs smoothly and examine it for cracks. Replace the tensioner if it fails either test.

Reinstall the drum and wrap the new belt around it (ribs facing the drum). Some tensioners are mounted behind the motor, so theyre difficult to see from the front access panel. Youll have to do this by feel. Reach your hands around the blower housing and lift the tensioner up while you route the belt around the motor pulley.

Dryer Door Won’t Stay Shut

If your dryer door wont stay closed, chances are the latch is either bent or missing, or the strike is worn. The fix is cheap and easy. Buy the parts from any appliance parts store. Then grab pliers, a couple of small, straight-slot screwdrivers and a roll of masking tape.

Grab the bent or broken latch and yank it out. Then install the new one, pushing in firmly until the locking tabs seat. Next, protect the doors finish with tape and remove the old strike. Jam a small screwdriver into the strike and bend the metal locking tab inward. Pry upward with a second screwdriver to pop it out (Photo 2). Snap in the new strike and youre back in the laundry business.

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Rewiring a House: How To Hire a Pro

John Williamson — Fri, 16 Dec 2022 17:08:46 +0000

You love your house. It’s in a great neighborhood with all the features your family needs. Sure, it was built half a century ago, but that’s part of its charm! Still, it would be nicer with a modernized electrical system to better power your appliances and technology.

To do that, you’ll need a licensed electrical contractor. We’ll outline what to consider when hiring one so you end up a happy, satisfied homeowner with a properly rewired home.

Can Rewiring a House Be a DIY Project?

Generally, no. Completely rewiring an existing home is not a DIY project unless you have advanced or professional-level experience and knowledge, not to mention buckets and buckets of spare time. Only a tiny percentage of DIYers should take on such a large, complex project.

Electrical Contractor’s Roles and Responsibilities

Before you hire a contractor to rewire your home, it’s important to understand what you can reasonably expect.

The contractor has certain business responsibilities that go well beyond satisfying their customers. Keep in mind your project is not their only project. They must create a plan for the work you want and order materials while managing other customer projects, supervising their workforce, juggling unexpected problems and generally try to keep everyone happy.

However, there are certain things you can (and should!) expect from your contractor:

A thorough assessment of your home and the existing wiring system: After this pre-project assessment, they should let you know how much of the existing wiring can be saved or must be removed, as well as any recent updates required by the electrical code.
Meeting with you to carefully review your project checklist, budget and timeline: The contractor needs to know precisely what you want accomplished. What is your goal or vision? Are you simply looking to update your home to code to sell it? Or are you planning to stay for years and want all of the newest smart-home technology?
Gathering nameplate information from all your appliances and equipment, existing or new: Some appliances, like your refrigerator, require more power than others.
Proper preparation to start the job: This includes drawing up all required documents (contract, plans and specifications); applying for required permits and inspections; and coordinating with the electric utility if you’re upgrading your main service panel.
An agreement on the frequency of project updates: You and the contractor have an obligation to each other to respond to questions and issues in a timely manner. The road to successful completion is a two-way street. When it’s all done and you look back at what contributed to the success of the project, effective communication should be listed right alongside all of the hard work, sweat and tears.
A final walkthrough and inspection of any punch list items: Make sure the contractor had the local electrical inspector come by for a final look before this walkthrough. If the contract is complete, all inspections have been made and you’re completely satisfied, there is one last task: Paying the final invoice. Consumer protection agencies advise not to make final payment until the project is complete.

How To Find and Hire an Electrical Contractor

You’re about to enter into what could become a long-term relationship, and maybe even a rewarding friendship. We can’t stress enough how important it is to take your time and do your homework when hiring a reputable contractor.

Licensing agencies offer good tips and consumer guides on how to hire contractors. Along with that information, keep this advice in mind:

Look for a trail of happy customers:Talk to neighbors, friends and family who have had electrical work done to their satisfaction. Ask all prospective contractors for a list of their previous customers and references.
Contact the regulatory agency that licenses contractors: Contractors are often licensed by the city, county or state. Always start with your city; they will point you in the right direction. To obtain a license, a contractor may have to take a written examination, show proof of liability and worker’s compensation insurance, bonding and continuing education. Licensing programs are in place to protect consumers. Hiring unlicensed handypeople or contractors could become your worst nightmare, and you may not get any help from the regulatory agency if you hire unlicensed workers. Also check if any complaints have been filed against the contractors, or, worse yet, they’ve been involved in enforcement actions or lawsuits.
Make the final decision: Competition is good, and so is competitive pricing. Interview at least three contractors and let them know you are getting bids from others. Also tell them you’re conducting a background check with the licensing agency. Remember: The lowest price may not be from the most reputable contractor.

The choice can be difficult, but don’t just roll the dice and hope for the best. It really comes down to trust. Who are you going to trust with the keys to your home, and who can you trust to complete the project in a professional and timely manner? Let those answers be your guide to the right contractor.

The post Rewiring a House: How To Hire a Pro appeared first on Family Handyman.

How To Wire a Four-Way Switch

John Williamson — Wed, 12 Oct 2022 17:12:00 +0000

Note: this is a complicated wiring setup that requires a solid understanding of basic home electronics.

Pull Cables to Switch Locations

Bring these cables to your switch boxes and light(s):

14/2 (black, white, ground) from panel to first three-way switch.
14/3 (black, red, white, ground) from first three-way switch to four-way switch.
14/3 (black, red, white, ground) from four-way switch to second three-way switch.
14/2 (black, white, ground) from second three-way switch to light(s).

Remember, four-way switches only work if they’re installed in the circuit in between two three-way switches. You can have as many intervening four-way switches as you want in the lighting control circuit, but they have to be bookended by two three-way switches.

Always know what you’re working on. Is it a circuit rated at 15 amperes? Is it a 20 amp circuit? The size of the circuit breaker in the electrical panel determines the rating of the branch circuit.

Here we have a branch circuit originating at a 15 amp circuit breaker, with 14 American Wire Gauge (AWG) cable and light switches rated at 15 amps. Whenever you replace existing light switches, make sure the replacement switches have the same rating.

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What To Know About Burying Underground Electrical Cable

John Williamson — Wed, 28 Sep 2022 21:15:15 +0000

Four Burial Depth Options for Underground Wiring

Decide how much digging you’re prepared to do and how deep your trench will be. This helps determine the type of wiring and the method you’ll use. Underground cable and wire can be installed at different depths, depending on the type of conduit, wire or cable.

Six inches

Install galvanized rigid metal electrical conduit with individual insulated wires six inches deep.

The wires are pulled through the conduit once the entire conduit run is complete, from end-to-end.
Wires must be rated for use in a wet location, such as Type THWN-2 (thermoplastic/wet location/nylon jacket).

Twelve inches

Install GFCI-protected direct-buried Type UF cable 12 inches deep.

The GFCI protection is a trade-off that provides enhanced electrical safety while reducing the need for a deeper trench.

Eighteen inches

Install PVC conduit with individual insulated wires 18 inches deep.

The wires are pulled through the conduit once the entire conduit run is complete, from end-to-end.
Wires must be rated for use in a wet location, such as Type THWN-2 (thermoplastic/wet location/nylon jacket).

Twenty-four inches

Install Type UF cable for the entire run 24 inches deep.

This is another trade-off between depth and physical protection.
Because the direct-buried cable is alone in the bottom of the trench without conduit or GFCI protection, it must be installed deeper in the ground.

Read on for the specifics about each option.

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8 Best Circuit Breaker Finders

Ally Childress — Fri, 16 Sep 2022 16:29:17 +0000

Best Basic Circuit Breaker Finder

Klein is a big name in electrical, and the affordable Klein ET300 circuit breaker finder doesn’t disappoint. For about $30, this popular model calibrates quickly and emits a clear, loud tone and flashing light when it finds the right breaker. The ET300’s transmitter works up to 1,000 feet from the panel, too, making it a standout in this price range.

This rugged product features an auto-off feature to conserve battery life. The ET300’s two-year warranty is better than similarly-priced models from other manufacturers.

$89.98 at Amazon

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How to Build a DIY Infrared Sauna

Joe Cruz — Wed, 03 Aug 2022 15:53:51 +0000

This modular design lets you construct the four walls, floor, roof, and benches of your indoor infrared sauna on-site, or build it and then transport your sauna to a remote location. The overall dimensions are 5-ft. wide x 4-ft. deep x 6-ft. tall. Build your sauna to the size that meets your needs. Check out Fig. 1 to see how it all goes together.

Figure 1

Overall dimensions: 95-in. H x 6-in. W x 48-in. D.

Cutting List

KEY	QTY.	PART	DIMENSIONS
A	2	Floor Base Outer Frame Front & Back	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 60″
B	2	Floor Base Outer Frame Sides	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 45″
C	2	Floor Base Inner Frame Front & Back	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 57″
D	5	Floor Base Inner Frame Stringers	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 42″
E	1	Floor Base Plywood Floor	3/4″ x 45″ x 57″
F	4	Front, Back Walls Top & Bottom Plates	1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 57″
G	4	Side Wall Top & Bottom Plate	1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 48″
H	10	Front, Back, Side Walls 2×2 Stud	1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 72″
I	4	Front & Side Wall 2×4 Stud	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 72
J	2	Roof Frame Front & Back	1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 55-3/4″
K	5	Roof Frame Studs	1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 40-3/4″
L	1	Roof Deck	3/4″ x 49-1/8″ x 61-1/8″
M	14	Roof Cedar Shiplap	1/4″ x 3-1/2″ x 45″
N	42	Front Walls Cedar Shiplap	1/4″ x 3-1/2″ x 17-9/16″
O	21	Back Wall Cedar Shiplap	1/4″ x 3-1/2″ x 45″
P	42	Side Walls Cedar Shiplap	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 45″
Q	2	Side Wall T1-11 Siding	9/16″ x 48″ x 75″
R	1	Front & Back Walls T1-11 Siding	9/16″ x 48″ x 75
S	1	Front & Back Walls Filler T1-11 Siding	9/16″ x 13-1/2″ x 75

Planning Your Infrared Sauna

Where to build it?
- Creating a space for a home sauna can be as simple as transforming an existing closet or building two walls in a corner of your basement. Maybe you’d like your sauna to be a free-standing building outdoors in your backyard. It depends on your budget and how ambitious you are.
How big should it be?
- That’s determined by how many people you want in the space at one time. Keep in mind the larger the room size, the more infrared panels youll need. Ideally, you want to keep the room small and the ceiling low. A sauna room measuring 4-ft. x 5-ft. x 6-ft. high can seat two people comfortably.
Power source
- Locate the closest power source and the amp capacity of the circuit. You may need to hire an electrician to wire a designated circuit.
Calculating your space
- Calculate your room volume to determine the number of infrared panels and the correct wattage you will need for your sauna to operate efficiently. Start by multiplying the width x depth x height to determine the cubic feet of your sauna. A 4-ft. x 5-ft. x 6-ft. high room = 120 cubic feet.
- In general, you’ll need a minimum of 10 watts per one cubic foot. To determine the total watts needed, multiply the cubic feet x 10. So 120 cubic feet x 10 watts = 1,200 watts.
- A standard infrared panel is 300 watts. Since our 120 cubic foot room requires 1,200 watts, we’ll go with four 300-watt panels.

The post How to Build a DIY Infrared Sauna appeared first on Family Handyman.

Guide To Wiring Diagrams

Ally Childress — Thu, 30 Jun 2022 20:43:28 +0000

I laugh about it today. But when I was a second-year apprentice and my foreman handed me a wiring diagram, I briefly panicked. I saw a bunch of boxes and a lot of seemingly randomly drawn lines. It looked like a jumble of spaghetti, with square meatballs.

“Sure, I’ve seen those before,” I said eagerly. Luckily, I know my limits, so my next words were: “But can you go over it with me?”

Three years later, I’m wiring the lighting control system (a network of lights, switches, sensors and relays) for a computerized tomography (CT) room at a major hospital. How did I go from uncertain apprentice to wiring diagram whiz?

For me, it was time and patience, often on the part of my instructors. But I’ll bet you don’t have three years to figure this out you have an electrical project right now. So how do you read an electrical wiring diagram? And what are they, anyway?

Let’s walk through them together.

What Is a Wiring Diagram?

A wiring diagram is a simplified representation of the conductors (wires) and components (devices, lights, motors, switches, sensors and more) that make up an electrical circuit or electrical system. Some wiring diagrams show the exact wire connections that must be made for the system to work, while others offer a graphical representation of how electricity flows through a circuit.

Wiring diagrams can be simple (a single receptacle) or complex (lighting controls in the CT room). A receptacle wiring diagram features pictures or line drawings of the receptacle and the power supply wires. It shows the installer exactly where on the receptacle to attach the hot, neutral and ground electrical wires.

More complex systems like the CT room have a diagram showing the system’s overall layout, as well as more detailed diagrams of the individual components and how they’re tied together.

Wiring diagrams are often easier to interpret than written directions, especially for people unfamiliar with electrical systems and concepts. If you can take your finger and trace a line from one place to another, you can follow a wiring diagram. Here are a few tips for drawing your electrical plan.

What Is a Wiring Diagram Used For?

A wiring diagram distills complex information into an easy-to-follow visual graphic. Wiring diagrams are great for installing electrical devices and troubleshooting when a system isn’t working.

Let’s say you want to install an movement sensor to turn off the lights and air conditioning when you’re not home. It might have six or more wires sticking out of it when you pull it out of the box. Which wire goes where? Do they all get connected? A wiring diagram lays it all out.

Wiring diagrams aren’t just for external components, like connecting the movement sensor to power, lights, heating, ventilation and air-conditioning (HVAC) equipment. Wiring diagrams also apply to internal wiring, like a circuit board inside a computer or washing machine. Here are a few tips for wiring an air conditioner.

Wiring diagrams can also represent how electricity flows in a circuit. These diagrams show the power source and voltage, as well as the loads (lights and equipment) and any components that affect the flow of electricity, like switches. This type, called a schematic, is most often used by engineers and other electrical professionals.

How To Read a Wiring Diagram

First, find a reference point. This could be the power supply or the light or sensor that you’re installing. Look at the picture and find the wires coming off the device. Follow the lines to see where they terminate. They might not all go to the same place. The movement sensor will have some wires that go to a transformer, and others to HVAC equipment and lights.

If you see a dot at the intersection of two or more lines, splice those wires together. But if a line “jumps” over another one in a half-moon shape or crosses another with no dot, don’t splice them..

The wiring diagram shows where to connect each wire on the device. A receptacle diagram might use common electrical terms such as “Line In,” which means the hot wire from the power supply, “Neutral” and “Ground.” Or it could say “Black,” “White” and “Green.” Make the connections precisely as directed or the device won’t work.

Diagrams showing electrical flow through a circuit use standardized symbols to represent electrical components. Ground is a vertical line with three successively smaller horizontal lines underneath. Switches are diagonal lines emanating from the line representing the electrical flow.

To read these diagrams, start at the power source and follow the line through all the components of the system.

Types of Wiring Diagrams

There are three basic types of wiring diagrams:

Wiring: Depicts electrical devices as drawings or pictures connected by lines representing wires. Wiring diagrams show specific electrical connections.
Pictorial: Shows how components are related to others on the same circuit, but contains less detailed information about electrical connections.
Schematic: Represents the flow of electricity through a circuit and its components. Drawn with standardized symbols.

Homeowners doing DIY electrical work are most likely to go with basic wiring and pictorial diagrams, usually included in the instructions for electrical devices.

The post Guide To Wiring Diagrams appeared first on Family Handyman.

Identifying the Different Types of Circuit Breakers

Ally Childress — Thu, 23 Jun 2022 20:51:17 +0000

We’ve all been annoyed by a tripped circuit breaker. Whether you’re getting ready for a night out or cooking dinner on a major holiday, it usually happens at the worst possible time. To get on with your life, you probably just walk over to your electrical panel and reset the breaker. I’m an experienced electrician, and I do the same.

But how much do you know about these ubiquitous safety devices? Circuit breakers protect electrical circuits by stopping the flow of electricity when they detect too much current on the circuit. This “overcurrent” can be caused by having too many things plugged in at once, called an overload, or by sudden surges of electricity caused by electrical arcs and short circuits.

“When a circuit is overloaded, it can no longer safely handle the amount of electricity flowing through it,” says George Talbot, a licensed electrician with Mister Sparky in Georgia and Tennessee. When that happens, wires, insulation and even your devices can overheat, causing them to melt or catch fire.

Electrical fires can be particularly devastating because they can smolder undetected for a long time and it often happens when we’re least prepared. According to the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), which publishes the National Electrical Code (NEC), over half of all deaths from electrical fires occur between midnight and 8 a.m. That’s why it’s so critical to have functioning circuit breakers.

Here are the most common circuit breakers found in your home.

Standard, Single-Pole Circuit Breaker

A single-pole breaker protects a single circuit in your home’s electrical system. This single circuit might power the lights in your living room or feed receptacles in your kitchen. Single-pole breakers take up one slot in your home’s electrical panel and typically protect 15-amp and 20-amp circuits.

Like other breakers, single-pole circuit breakers have a handle with three possible positions: On, Off and Tripped. When the circuit is on, the breaker allows electrical current to move through the circuit conductors from the outside transformer to the device or appliance, then back again in an endless loop. Electricity always wants to return to its source, so as long as the breaker doesn’t sense a problem or you don’t manually stop it, this cycle will continue indefinitely.

But let’s say you have a 20-amp circuit in your bathroom. It’s chilly in the morning, so you turn on your 1500-watt bathroom space heater, which draws about 12.5 amps. You step out of the shower and start to dry your hair with a standard 1875-watt hair dryer, which draws more than 15 amps. Your single-pole breaker trips, because you put more than 28 amps of electricity on a circuit designed for 20 amps.

If that happens occasionally, you can just go to the panel and reset the breaker. Unlike fuses, which were once common in older homes, breakers can be reset repeatedly. But don’t ignore breakers that constantly trip, especially if you don’t know what’s causing the trip (unlike the hair dryer overload). Call a licensed electrician for help.

Standard, Double-Pole Circuit Breaker

Double-pole breakers work the same way as single-pole breakers, but they protect circuits that power larger equipment, like air conditioners, ranges and dryers. These appliances need two hot wires to deliver enough current to run, so double-pole breakers have two wire terminals, and they take up two slots in your electrical panel.

When a double-pole breaker trips, it must sever electricity to both hot wires at the same time. Likewise, when you go to reset a tripped double-pole breaker, the handle allows you to reset both hots simultaneously. That’s actually an NEC requirement; if something goes wrong, the last thing you need to worry about is a half-hot circuit.

In addition to the two-pole breakers protecting your large appliances, your main breaker is also a double-pole breaker. “This is usually a larger switch located at the bottom or top of your breaker’s service panel,” Talbot says. It’s vitally important to turn off breakers before doing any work on your electrical panel. “Turning off the breaker is a crucial step before doing any type of electrical maintenance,” Talbot says.

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter Breaker

You’ve used ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) receptacles in your kitchen and bathrooms, but what about GFCI circuit breakers? It’s perfectly acceptable to protect circuits with GFCI breakers instead of relying on individual receptacles. When you need full-circuit protection, breakers are often the most economical and easiest way to go.

GFCIs protect people from a specific source of electrical shock: ground faults. Ground faults occur when electricity from a hot wire takes an unintentional path through conductive things that don’t normally carry electricity. This path could be a metal pipe in the wall, the outside of an applianceor you.

To combat this danger, electricians like me install a deliberate path, colloquially called a “ground path,” to redirect this stray current back to the source. “When an outlet or device is grounded, it means there is a ground wire that is linked from the outlet to the electrical panel in order to act as a safety valve” for these stray currents, Talbot says.

GFCIs detect the amount of current going out to the load (what you’re powering) and compare it to the current coming back to the panel. If the difference between the two paths is more than six milliamps, the GFCI opens the circuit, stopping the flow of electricity. This happens in as little as 1/40 of a second.

The NEC requires GFCIs in places where water is a common hazard. Bathrooms, kitchens, garages, crawl spaces, outdoor receptacles and more must be GFCI-protected in new construction, remodels and repairs. Check with your local code authority for specifics.

Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) Breaker

Arc fault protection is a relatively new requirement in the NEC, first made mandatory for bedrooms in 2002. Since then, the NEC has expanded AFCI protection requirements to include nearly every room in your house, except bathrooms and basements. In new construction and remodels, AFCIs are replacing standard breakers as the most common breakers in your panel.

AFCIs protect your home from fires by monitoring circuits for dangerous electrical arcs. What’s an electrical arc? Imagine two wires connected under a wire nut. As long as the connection is tight, the current flows seamlessly through the splice. If that connection comes loose, the electricity will try to “jump” from one wire to the other to continue its path, creating an arc between the conductors.

This arc can happen anywhere there’s a loose connection, but if that arc happens in an old lamp cord behind the living room curtains or under your bed, for example, you could be looking at a dangerous situation. Any combustible material in the vicinity of that arc has the potential to catch fire.

An AFCI breaker detects these unintentional arcing events wherever they occur and immediately severs the flow of electricity to the circuit.

AFCI/GFCI Dual-Function Breaker

Kitchens and laundry rooms require GFCI and AFCI protection, so the dual-function breaker combines both levels of protection into one device. Before these breakers came about, a homeowner would have to use an AFCI breaker and a GFCI receptacle to achieve both levels of protection on one circuit.

If your house is newer, or if you’ve updated your electrical panel in the last few years, you may see these dual-function breakers in your panel instead of standard, GFCI or AFCI breakers.

About the Expert

Gerald Talbot is a licensed electrician with Mister Sparky. Talbot has electrical contracting licenses in Georgia and Tennessee and is the owner-operator of Mister Sparky in Chattanooga, Tennessee.

Sources

Campbell, Richard. National Fire Protections Association: Home Electrical Fires (Jan. 31, 2022)

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What’s a Bladeless Ceiling Fan and Does It Really Work?

Ethan O'Donnell — Tue, 21 Jun 2022 23:09:47 +0000

I’m into lighting. Good or bad, its the first thing I notice in every space I set foot in. Id even go as far as to say that if I could start my career over, Id love to get into the lighting design field.

When chatting with friends on a recent outing, someone mentioned a bladeless ceiling fan. Bladeless? How could that be? Intrigued, I looked it up and found the modern and sleek Orren Ellis Integrated LED Bladeless Ceiling Fan. The photos on Wayfair and its unique design hooked me, so I ordered one. It showed up on my doorstep a few days later.

What is the Orren Ellis LED Bladeless Ceiling Fan?

Orren Ellis is a home furnishings design brand specializing in contemporary furniture and lighting. Though it markets this 20-1/2-in.-wide product as bladeless, it just means the blades aren’t exposed; there’s a 13-inch fan hidden inside the frame. The perimeter features a dimmable two-inch-wide LED ring.

Operators control fan speed and the LED light with a compact remote control, which comes with batteries and a mounting harness.

The fan showed up in a large cardboard box, which contained more bright-white Styrofoam than actual fan components. The fan is small and light, weighing less than seven pounds. It shipped with a remote and a single page of vague installation instructions.

How We Tested It

Our small, windowless den seems like the perfect place for a new ceiling fan with a bright LED light. So I pulled out my electrical tools, shut off the breaker and got to work. I was curious to see how powerful the fan was, the brightness and dimmability of the LED light, and how user-friendly the remote control was.

Blade vs Bladeless Fan Performance Compared

First off, the images on Wayfair’s website don’t accurately portray the lighting’s design and size. The images show what seems to be a low-profile, surface-mounted light. Once I had the fan in my hands, I realized the images cut off more than half the body. On top of that, three of the four listed dimensions were inaccurate. The biggest discrepancy: The fans opening is three inches larger than its actual size!

Because the fan uses an integrated LED light source, there are never any bulbs to change. But that means if the lights ever burn out, there’s no way to repair them without a fair amount of electrical knowledge and steady-handed soldering skills.

The fan was up in no time. Its ultra-light weight was an unexpected gift of the installation process. Once up, the Orren Ellis fan looked nice and the dimmable LED lights were surprisingly bright and bold.

The light has three color settings warm yellowish, cool blueish, and a mixture of both that feels like normal incandescent light. For its size, the three-speed fan is breezy and powerful. Even the remote is foolproof and easy to comprehend.

Our Final Verdict

Though its size, shape, and description leave something to be desired, the Orren Ellis LED Bladeless Ceiling Fan has some redeeming qualities. Its bright and adjustable light, easy-to-use remote control and compact contemporary design make it perfect for small and dark spaces like basement bedrooms, dens and walk-in closets.

Pros

Compact size;
No bulbs to switch;
Bright and dimmable LED lights;
User friendly remote control;
Lightweight;
Modern design.

Cons

Small;
Unusual design.

Where to Buy an Oren Ellis

The Orren Ellis LED Bladeless Ceiling Fan with Remote Control is available from Wayfair.

Buy Now!

The post What’s a Bladeless Ceiling Fan and Does It Really Work? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Amps vs. Volts vs. Watts vs. Ohms: What’s the Difference?

John Williamson — Mon, 14 Mar 2022 22:24:35 +0000

The basic components of electricity are relatively easy and logical to understand. Most electrical terms relate and get along with each other like a harmonious family. Before you tackle any electrical or home wiring project, familiarize yourself with the following terms so you can go about them smarter, safer and without apprehension.

What Is a Watt?

Watts are units of electric power. Think of wattage as electricity at work when heating or illuminating a room in your home. Take a portable electric space heater rated at 500 watts. The space heater consumes 500 watts of power when it’s turned on.

You’ll also encounter wattage when selecting light bulbs. To find an incandescent bulb that produces equivalent light to the burned-out bulb, you check the wattage. And appliance nameplates are often marked with the product’s wattage rating.

What Is a Volt?

Voltage is the pressure that forces electric current to flow though a wire.

In North America, utility systems typically deliver electricity to your home’s service panel at 240 and 120 volts. Major electrical appliances like ranges, clothes dryers, water heaters, air conditioning and space heating systems typically operate at 240 volts. Everything else runs on 120 volts.

What Is an Amp?

Amperage measures the rate that current flows through an electrical circuit. If voltage is like water pressure, amperage is like the rate of water flow. “Amps” is the common shorthand for this.

When installing, altering or replacing branch circuits in your home, in your electrical panel you’ll see fuses or circuit breakers of different sizes. General-purpose lighting and receptacle outlet circuits are rated 15 amps. In newer construction, you’ll also find dedicated 20-amp circuits for the kitchen, bathroom, laundry room, garage receptacle outlets and appliances like a dishwasher or refrigerator.

Electric clothes dryers and electric water heaters are typically rated 30 amps. Air-conditioning units, electric ranges and electric countertop cooking units or wall-mounted electric ovens may be rated at 30, 40 or 50 amps.

All the electrical components in your home must be coordinated so everything operates safely.The fuse or circuit breaker amp rating dictates the size of the wire and capacity limitations for the circuit. If you need more amps, you need bigger wire.

What Is an Ohm?

An ohm (represented by the Greek letter Omega, or ) measures the resistance inherent in any electrical wire. Copper wire, an excellent conductor of electricity, is found throughout many homes. Aluminum wire, another good conductor, can be found in commercial, industrial and utility installations. Both have inherent resistance to the flow of electricity.

Wires made from different metals have different resistance values, just like a small garden hose will limit the flow of water compared to a large fire hose.

When you troubleshoot electrical circuits, appliances, light switches, fuses, relays and other electrical components with a multimeter, some of the settings and readings will be expressed in Ohms. When you check the continuity for a new fuse, the multimeter will read approximately zero Ohms of resistance. That means the fuse has continuity and is good.

On the other hand, if you check a suspected defective fuse or broken light switch, you’ll probably get an Ohm reading other than zero. That may indicate a blown fuse or broken light switch. Consult the multimeter’s user manual so you can operate it safely and interpret the readings.

How Do Watts, Volts, Amps and Ohms Relate to Each Other?

Electrical math is straightforward. If you know two variables, you can find the result. If you know “x” and “y,” you can solve for “z.”

There are many laws in physics, science and nature, and Ohm’s Law is one of the most important in understanding basic electricity. And the Ohm’s Law Wheel helps make sense of it.

Here’s an example of a practical application. Say you’re installing an electric space heater in your garage. There’s a 5,000-watt (five-kilowatt or 5kW) space heater on sale at the hardware store that’s perfect for the space. What size circuit will you need for the space heater?

According to the nameplate, the space heater is rated at 5kW and must be supplied with 240 volts. So you need to solve for the amps (represented by the letter I for “intensity of current”). When you look at the Ohm’s Law Wheel, select this formula:

I = W/E (amps = watts volts);

I = 5,000 watts by 240 volts;

I = 20.8 amps;

Because the electric space heater on a continuous load could operate for three or more hours on a cold day, a safety factor of 125 percent is applied. So 20.8 amps x 1.25 = 26 amps.

All done! A standard 30-amp branch circuit will have adequate capacity to supply electricity continuously and safely for the space heater.

How To Work Safely on Your Home’s Electrical System

Electricity is an invisible phenomenon we take for granted. Working with electricity does not need to be dangerous or difficult if you know how it works, treat it with respect and take basic safety precautions. Learn how to safely use electrical tools and testers.
Make sure your electrical tester or multimeter is working properly before turning off the power.
Always turn off power to circuits before working on them. Put a label, sign or circuit breaker lockout device at the electrical panel so nobody inadvertently turns the power back on. You’ll find a variety of universal circuit breaker lockout devices at home centers and online for less than $10.
Always wear safety glasses and nonconductive leather, rubber, latex, nitrile or similar dry gloves. Wear clothing with natural fibers instead of synthetic materials.
Wear proper sturdy footwear and never stand or kneel on a wet or damp surface when working with electricity. Use a dry, nonconductive piece of wood or nonconductive mat, especially when working outdoors.
Use tools with rubber or plastic handles. Nonconductive tool handles provide another level of protection from electrical hazards.

The post Amps vs. Volts vs. Watts vs. Ohms: What’s the Difference? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Multimeter Symbol Guide

Chris Deziel — Fri, 04 Feb 2022 20:46:08 +0000

Back in the early days of electricity, lab workers could measure electric current in a circuit using an ammeter (galvanometer) and voltage using a voltmeter. From there, they could calculate resistance.

In 1920, British postal engineer Donald Macadie invented the AVOmeter, which measured all three quantities (A = amps, V = volts, O = ohms). Soon after, electricians working in the field got their hands on somewhat portable versions of this invention.

Today’s multimeters do the same jobs as the AVOmeter, but they’re more sophisticated and can do multiple other tests as well. Depending on the model, a multimeter can tell you whether a diode or capacitor is working, distinguish between alternating and direct current and measure wire temperature. Functions are denoted by symbols arranged around a dial.

Homeowners doing DIY electrical work don’t need the same functionality as electronics technicians, so multimeters sold in hardware stores are less complicated than those at electronics supply outlets. Even so, the symbols can be difficult to decipher. Here’s a rundown of the electrical terms and symbols you’ll find on a basic multimeter for home use and what they mean.

Multimeter Symbols You Need to Know

Voltage

Multimeters can measure direct current (DC) voltage and alternating current (AC) voltage, so they need to display more than one voltage symbol. On some older models, the designation for AC voltage is VAC. These days, it’s more common for manufacturers to place a wavy line over the V to signify AC voltage.

To signify DC voltage, the convention is to place a dotted line with a solid line above it over the V. To get voltage readings in millivolts (one-thousandth of a volt), set the dial to mV.

“V” with a wavy line over it = AC voltage.
“V” with one dotted and one solid over it = DC voltage.
“mV” with one wavy line or a pair of lines, one dotted and one solid, over it = AC or DC millivolts.

Current

Like voltage, current can be AC or DC. Because the unit for current is ampres, or amps, the symbol for it is A.

“A” with a wavy line over it = AC current.
“A” with two lines, one dotted and one solid, over it = DC current.
mA = Milliamps.
A ( is the Greek letter mu) = Microamps (millionths of an amp).

Resistance

A multimeter measures resistance by sending a small electric current through the circuit. The symbol for the unit of resistance, the ohm, is the Greek letter omega (). Meters don’t distinguish between AC and DC resistance, so there are no lines above this symbol.

On meters with range selection options, you can select the kilohm (1,000 ohms) scale and the mega ohm (one million ohms) scale, which are k and M, respectively.

= Ohms.
k = Kilohms.
M = Mega ohms.

Continuity

Use a multimeter to test for a break in an electrical circuit. The meter measures resistance, and there are only two outcomes. Either the circuit is broken (open), in which case the meter reads infinite resistance, or the circuit is intact (closed), in which case the meter reads 0 (or close to it).

Because there are only two possibilities, some meters beep when they detect continuity. This function is denoted on the dial settings by a series of left-facing brackets of increasing size, like a sideways version of the wireless reception symbol on a laptop.

Diode and Capacitance Tests

Electronics technicians are more likely to use the diode and capacitance tests than electricians or homeowners. But if you have a meter with these functions, it helps to know what the symbols mean.

The diode test function looks like an arrow pointing toward the center of a plus sign. When this function is selected, the meter will tell you whether a diode (a common electronics component that changes AC current into DC current) is working or not.

The capacitance function resembles a right-facing bracket to the right of a vertical line. Both are crossed by a horizontal line. Capacitors are electronic devices that store charge, and the meter can measure the charge.

The temperature function measures the temperature of the circuit wires. It’s denoted by a thermometer.

Jacks and Buttons

Two leads are supplied with every multimeter, one black and one red. Some meters have three jacks and some four. The jacks into which you plug the leads depend on what you’re testing.

COM is the common jack, and it’s the only black one. You always plug the black lead into this jack.
A is the jack where the red lead goes if you’re measuring high current up to 10 amps.
mAV is the jack for every other measurement, including sensitive current measurements, voltage, resistance and temperature, if the meter has only three jacks.
mAA is the jack for sensitive current measurements (less than one amp) if the meter has four jacks.
V is the jack for all other measurements except current.

At the top of the meter display, above the dial, you usually find two buttons, one to the left and one to the right.

Shift. To save space, manufacturers may assign two functions to some dial positions. You access the function marked in yellow by pressing the shift button, which is usually also yellow and may or may not be marked.
Hold. Pressing this button freezes the current reading for later reference.

Manual vs. Auto Range

An older analog multimeter with a needle needs to have more than one range setting. If the meter had only a large range, it couldn’t be used for sensitive measurements because the needle would hardly deflect. On the other hand, if the meter had only a small range, any measurement exceeding that range, no matter what it was, would deflect the needle to its maximum.

Digital multimeters with LED displays were introduced in the 1970s, and today most multimeters are digital. Some still have range settings that you select with a dial. But increasingly, the meter selects the range automatically.

Because these multimeters don’t have range settings (which can occupy up to 18 dial positions), auto-range multimeters can have more functionality than those with manual range settings.

Note: Retain the owner’s manual of your multimeter for reference. Keep the manual and the multimeter clean and dry in a quart- or gallon-size plastic zip-top freezer storage bag.

The post Multimeter Symbol Guide appeared first on Family Handyman.

Family Handyman Approved: Wago Lever Nuts

Glenn Hansen — Fri, 04 Feb 2022 18:02:55 +0000

I dont trust twist-on wire nuts. Sure, the wiring in my walls is replete with those inexpensive twist-on connectors. But that doesnt mean I need to use traditional wire nuts for future electrical projects and wiring add-ons like new ceiling fans and light fixtures. The wire nuts that often come with those projects seem particularly weak.

With Wago lever nuts, I have a better option. After I discovered these connectors, I tossed my color-coded traditional wire nut connectors. Ill use only these nuts from now on.

What Are Wago Lever Nuts?

With a Wago lever nut, you flip open an orange lever, insert a stripped wire end and close the lever. Do that for the two or three wires youre joining and youre done. Closing the lever connects the wires.Give each wire a little tug to be sure its locked in.

These lever nuts work with solid and stranded wire, and they’re available for different wire gauges and in two-, three- and five-wire configurations.

Wago lever nuts are made in Germany by a large manufacturing company that makes much larger electrical equipment, too. The company has vast experience in electrical connection solutions, and the stereotypical German quality ethic is evident in the feel of these tiny connectors.

How We Tested Them

I recently added several surface-mounted electrical outlets in my garage, and the small outlet boxes made regular wire nuts difficult to use for all the pigtailing I needed to do.

On one of many trips to the hardware store during this project, I bought a box of Wago lever nuts three-wire model 221. I needed a method to fit pigtail connections in small boxes that came with the surface-mount kit I used. I was adding seven new boxes and connections in my garage.

Performance Review

It takes some force to open each lever, and they close with a noticeable snap; these are not just push-connect fittings. The lever closure does the work and you can feel it.

You can see the wires as you insert them into the mostly clear plastic connector. This helps you make sure youre inserting them all the way. A small gauge on the side of the device helps you strip the right amount of insulation from each wire.

It was easy to fit three Wago 221s one each for the neutral, hot and ground wires in my small outlet boxes. For extra security, I wrapped each lever nut in color-coordinated electrical tape so I can see whats what if I open any outlet box. Thats not necessary, but it was easy and felt right.

Where to Buy Wago Lever Nuts

At $18 for a 50-count box, Wago lever nuts are more expensive than regular twist-on wire nuts. And theyre worth it. Thats why theyre Family Handyman Approved. Wago lever nuts are available at hardware stores and home centers.

Shop Now

Glenn Hansen, Deputy Editor, ismagazine editor and writer by trade, Glenn gained experience in home repair when he bought his first old home while workingside jobsin construction to supplement his starving-writer salary. He has built several furniture projects from the pages ofFamily Handymanmagazine and worked through countless fix-it-up projects at home to save a few bucks.

The post Family Handyman Approved: Wago Lever Nuts appeared first on Family Handyman.

18 Common Electrical Terms You Should Know

Chris Deziel — Thu, 02 Dec 2021 21:09:09 +0000

AC Power

One of the most important electrical terms to know is AC. Ever since the Tesla-Westinghouse power plant at Niagara Falls came online in 1885, alternating current (AC) power has been the standard in North America and eventually the rest of the world.

Alternating current changes direction cyclically because it’s produced by a spinning turbine. This means that AC current has a characteristic frequency. In North America, it’s 60 cycles per second.

Unlike direct current (DC) voltage, AC voltage can be increased and decreased via transformers. This makes it possible to transmit electricity over large distances. Centralized generating stations using wind, solar, water, nuclear fuel or fossil fuels can power communities hundreds of miles away.

Understanding AC electrical terminology can help homeowners understand how power comes into the house, what happens when it gets there, and how to work with it.

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What to Do Within the First Year After Moving Into Your New Home

Family Handyman — Wed, 30 Jun 2021 04:00:46 +0000

Once you’ve signed and closed on your new home, the work continues! There are so many projects you can do in the first few months as well as within the first year. Whether you’re looking at the interior of your home and considering upgrading the walls with a fresh coat of paint or if you’re looking at the exterior and considering new landscaping ideas, being a new homeowner is a labor of love.

Here’s what you can do to maintain your home all year long.

Painting Your Home

One of the most common home renovation projects you may consider within the first year of moving into your new space is painting your room or multiple rooms. We’ve included some tips and techniques on how to paint different parts of your house including the living room, as well as girls’ and boys’ bedrooms and also offer some ideas on which colors might set just the tone you’re looking for.

Window Treatments

When you move into your new home, you’ll want just the right coverage on your windows to illuminate or darken your rooms while at the same, show off your own sense of style. Whether you’re looking for curtains for your living room or smart blinds for your bedroom, here are some inspirational ideas on how you can liven up your windows in an artful way.

Insulation

No matter what season it is, it’s important for you to make sure that you have proper insulation in your house. Learn about the different insulations types for your atticand how to prevent frozen pipes during the cold season.

Landscaping

What your home looks like on the outside is just as important as what it looks like on the inside. Whether you have a small or large yard, we have a variety of landscaping ideas that’ll shape the look and feel of your home. If you’re a gardener, you should consider soil testing the areas of your yard where you plan on growing plants and/or vegetables.

Upgrades and Replacements

What are some DIY jobs you can tackle when an appliance or part of your home system breaks down? Learn some of the basics from how to fix a doorbell to replacing a lightbulb when it goes out.

Maintenance

Home maintenance doesn’t have to be a burden if you stay on top of problems when they arise. Whether you’re checking your sump pump, installing new smoke alarms, or caulking windows, there’s always something to do to ensure your home is healthy and up to code. Consider creating a home maintenance checklist for every season.

Annual

Year-round home maintenance is crucial if you don’t want to end up paying for a big repair. As a first-time buyer, we have a beginner’s guide to home maintenance so you’ll know the ins and outs on checking items like smoke alarms, water pressure and cleaning out your air conditioning units.

Electrical Safety Checks Video

Seasonal

Every season brings different home maintenance responsibilities. For winter maintenance, you obviously need to check if your heating systems are ready to go and that you don’t have any air leaking through your windows. For spring maintenance, make sure your home is free of pests especially cockroaches and take time to do exterior woodwork, roof inspections and to check your sprinkler systems. For summer maintenance, keep your cooling systems in check and schedule any major outdoor projects then. And last but not least, fall maintenance can involve anything from aerating the soil, cleaning your gutters to cleaning your chimney.

Monthly

Here are some helpful home maintenance tips that you should do every month to keep your systems in good standing.

Basic Projects for New Homeowners

If you’re new to the DIY world, we’ve got you covered! Learn how to start a garden, repair a broken pipe, fix an appliance or even use a leaf blower. Whether you’re doing something as common as painting a room or learning the more involved steps of fertilizing your lawn, tackling these types of projects will build your confidence and equip you to be a more informed and seasoned homeowner.

How to Prune Your Garden: Spring is an ideal time for getting rid of the unwanted parts of your plants, but you can also prune during the early summer and late fall months. Think of yourself as a sculptor as you shape your plants, make room for new growth and keep your garden healthy.
How to Repair Your Office Chair: Does your office chair need fixing? If your chair doesn’t bounce or has a hard time rolling, all you need is some basic tools and parts to rebuild it.

Basic Tools to Use

With all the projects on your list, you’re going to need some basic tools to get the job done right. If have plans to build a deck or some other substantial project, you’ll need an impact drill. Boring holes in wood or metal? Then you’ll want to purchase a drill press. For chores that help keep the exterior of your home clean and tidy, look into a pressure washer to clean off old paint and a leaf blower to maintain your landscaping.

New Homeowner Tips and Information

Here are some additional tips and information for things you need to do within a year of moving into your new home that could help best prepare you to make the right decisions as a new homeowner from checking your electrical and HVAC systems, compiling a list of contractors for needed repairs and creating an inventory of all your valuable assets you’ll be moving in with.

New Homeowner Products

There’s no shortage of things you could buy for your new house. It’s a list that could get long and very expensive pretty quickly. The key here is to focus in on what you need. Use this list of the most essential products for new homeowners as guidance and know what to avoid.

If you enjoyed this content, sign up for our new homeowner newsletter where well guide you through the exciting journey of what to do before you purchase your dream house as well as give you expert tips and projects to help you make that new house a true home.

The post What to Do Within the First Year After Moving Into Your New Home appeared first on Family Handyman.

How to Fish Wire Through A Wall

Mike Berner — Thu, 08 Apr 2021 21:50:51 +0000

One of the basic skills of DIY electrical is knowing how to make connections inside switch, light and outlet boxes. But being able to fish wire, as the pros call it, through your walls lets you add new switches, lights and outlets exactly where you want them, or add communication cable like Cat 6 yourself.

You dont have to settle for stepping over extension cords or draping wires across your walls. With these wire-fishing tips and tools, you can put wires where you need them.

Route Cable Behind Baseboard

If youre like me and would rather install miles of trim than patch drywall, this is the way to go.

Remove the baseboard and cut a long, narrow hole in its place. Then drill holes in the studs for your wire to pass through. This works best with wide base trim but can be done with narrow base trim as well. Be sure to keep the holes in the studs at least 1-1/4-in. away from the stud edges to avoid the need for protective metal plates.

Make a Bevel Cut

If you have to cut an access hole, make the cut at an angle. Then when its time to patch it, spread joint compound around the hole and press the cutout back in. The mud will hold the plug in place. Theres no need for screws or backing, and the plug wont fall through the hole.

Make a Chase With Trim

Run conduit or BX cable (armored cable) along the top corner of a wall and cover it with crown molding. You can cut small holes in the wall or ceiling where the wiring needs to exit the room.

Dont Fish Power Cords

Cords that power appliances, TVs and power strips cannot be placed inside a wall. The National Electrical Code says these cords cannot replace permanent wiring. To avoid seeing these power cords, you can fish cable to add a new outlet nearby.

Give Communication Cable Enough Space

Communication cable like coax or Cat 6 should be kept away from cables that carry high voltage to outlets and lights. Pros recommend keeping them 12 to 16 inches away. If you must cross these cables, do so at a 90 degree angle.

Find the Easiest Route

The easiest route is not always the most direct. Take advantage of unfinished spaces like basements and attics to run wire from one end of the house to the other. You might use an extra 50 feet of wire, but it will save you lots of time.

Use a Lot of Cable

Pushing far more cable than you need into the walls or ceilings is helpful for a few reasons. First, it makes the job of hooking the cable youre fishing much easier. It also eliminates lots of tugging, which can damage fragile Cat 6 cables.

Hide Wires With Raceway

Running wire on the wall surface with raceway is a great way to get power right where you want it without fishing wires through walls. You can hide the raceway behind furniture and paint it to match the wall. Build the raceway from an existing electrical box with snap-together components and hide the wire inside the channel.

Run Conduit in Closets or Cabinets

Conduit or armored cable is another great option for surface wiring, and its about half the cost of raceway. You wouldnt want to run it over your walls like you would raceway, but it wont be visible in a dark closet or along the backs of cabinets.

Splice Like a Pro

Sometimes you have to pull hard to get a cable through a wall, so make sure the cable is securely tied to your pulling tool, whether its a fish tape or a coat hanger.

This is my favorite method: Put the wire through the eyelet or around the hook, then wrap it around your fishing tool. Tape them together with electrical tape, making sure to taper the wrapped section so it will slide through holes.

Dont Run Cable in Ductwork

Running cable inside ductwork, as convenient as it may be, is not allowed by code. You can run cable in plenum spaces like stud and joist bays for return air, but youll need a plenum-rated cable. These cables have special jackets that are nontoxic and rated for fire.

You can find plenum-rated Cat 6 and security cable at electrical supply stores. It will cost about twice as much as standard versions.

Wire Along the Plumbing Stack

Adding power in an upper level can mean running wires from the basement to the attic. In a two-story home, youd have three ceilings to go through. But in older homes, sometimes this is as easy as lowering a plumb bob along the plumbing vent stack and pulling up the cable. Newer homes might not have enough space around the stack, but its worth checking first.

Drill Two Holes to Turn a Corner

Running wire around corners isnt as hard as it seems; the key is to cut holes on each side of the corner. With a spade bit in an angle drill, or an angle attachment, drill a hole in each of the corner studs. This will give you a path to pull wire through.

Find Obstructions

Before cutting any holes in walls, map out the route you want your wire to take. Scan the wall with a stud finder to locate any blocking that might obstruct that route. If theres blocking in one stud bay, the next one over might make a better path. You dont want to find out the hard way.

Double-Duty Access Holes

Instead of cutting new holes in your walls or ceilings, you can use holes that are already there. Remove light fixtures, switches or outlets to use existing holes, or plan ahead to use the access hole for a new fixture.

Hide TV Wires With a Wiring Kit

The easiest way to hide TV wires is with an in-wall TV wiring kit ($60). Just cut holes for the two boxes, drop the wire down the wall and then plug in the extension cord. The kit is prewired with a male-ended plug and comes with an extension cord. This is especially helpful if a stud blocks a direct fishing route and you want to avoid a big wall-repair project.

Tuck Low-Voltage Wires

Low-voltage cable doesnt have the same installation requirements as household power cables. Speaker wire, cables that provide power to doorbells and thermostats, and communication lines like Cat 6 dont need to be run inside your walls. You can just tuck them under your baseboard, but not under carpet or rugs.

Wire-fishing gear

Glow Rods

Glow rods are a staple for wire fishing. Just like steel tape, they can be pushed up walls and along ceilings. They can usually be purchased in several lengths and be screwed together for longer spans. Most come with a swivel eyelet tip and a hook tip. The luminescent rods glow in the dark, illuminating dark joist and stud bays. You can find them for $40 at home centers.

Flex Bit

If you need to run wire across a few joists or studs, reach for a flex bit. They come in long lengths, and extensions are available so you can drill holes through several joists. They have an eyelet at the tip, so once youve made your holes you can pull the wire back through with the same bit.

One thing to note: Dont drill through insulation with these bits. Expect to pay about $50 for a 54-inch flex bit at a home center.

Homemade Hooks

Some of my favorite fishing tools are ones you can make yourself. Small hooks made from cable or coat hangers let you grab cable just out of reach. Best of all, theyre economical.

90-Degree Drill Attachment

This is the perfect tool for drilling holes between stud bays. About $18 at most home centers, its a lot cheaper than a dedicated angle drill and serves the same purpose. It can be a little tricky to use with larger bits, so hold on tight.

Wire-Pulling Magnets

With a few options at different prices, magnets are cool tools for pulling wire along an insulated stud bay. This Magnepull ($125) consists of a steel leader and a roller magnet. You can even use it to retrieve lost bits and other tools from inside walls. Wire-pulling magnets, which range from $40 to $125, can be found at electrical supply stores.

Low Voltage Mud Ring

Use mud rings to prevent marring drywall as I pull cable. They also have markers in the corner to outline the perfect hole size and shape for single-gang boxes. When youre done fishing, leave it in the wall and cover it with a blank faceplate to avoid patching (especially useful for hard-to-patch textured walls). These mud rings are available for less than $2 each at home centers.

Steel Fish Tape

This long roll of stiff steel is great for pushing wire through insulated walls, up wall cavities and down long lengths of joists. A roll starts at $15 at home centers.

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The Most Essential Products for New Homeowners

Mary Henn — Fri, 02 Apr 2021 19:11:35 +0000

Buying a houseis rarely as simple as getting the keys and settling in. Even if you didnt buy a fixer-upper, youll most likely want to give your new place some level of customization, from painting the walls to refinishing the floors (and youll probably want to change the locks, too.) Another thing to be ready for is ongoing maintenance like yard work, repairing a broken toilet or even keeping your new place clean.

Heres a list of some of the most essential products, tools and other supplies youll need as you settle into your new house.

Home Renovations

While its generally a good idea to wait a year and get to know your housebefore knocking down wallsand undertaking major renovations, projects likepaintingor installing new lights are an easy way to personalize and make your new home even more comfortable.

Scotch Blue Painters Tape Applicator

Purdy XL Angled Paint Brush

Bucket Edge Complete Set

Philips Hue Smart Light Kit

Homeowner Tools

You will need some toolsto take care of your new home. Start with thesethree essential tools: A tape measure, a multi-utility knife, and an easy-to-store ladder. Youll find that these are the things youll use repeatedly. In addition to those tools, we also recommend:

Craftsman Cordless Drill and Impact Driver

Amazon Basics Indoor/Outdoor Extension Cord

Irwin Claw Hammer

Filtrete Smart Furnace Filter

Kitchen and Bathroom Supplies

Most families end up spending as much time in the kitchen as any room in the house, so its important toget your kitchen organizedto make the most of it. And youll obviously want your bathroom to be as comfortable as possible, too. Here are a few suggestions for what youll need.

Rev-A-Shelf Pull-Out Trash Can Container

DII Washable Fridge & Shelf Liner

VaeFae Bamboo Silverware Organizer

Tushy Classic Bidet

Appliances

In most cases, your new house will already have all the home appliances you need. However, its not unusual for the previous owner to have taken the washer and dryer with them, in which case, youll need to get your own.

Bespoke AI Front Load Washer and Dryer

Bespoke Counter Depth 4-Door Refrigerator

Whirlpool 24-in Built-In Dishwasher

Lawn Care

A lush lawn will have you spending a lot more time outdoors. It might even make you the envy of the neighborhood. But all that green grass is going to require some care and maintenance. Here are the products you need to make it happen:

EGO Power+ 56V Battery Lawn Mower Kit

Flexi Hose Expandable Garden Hose

Fiskars 46-Inch Digging Shovel

EGO Power+ 56V Cordless Leaf Blower

Outdoor Living

Theres nothing better than kicking up your heels and relaxing in the backyard after a long dayor even a short one. Therefore, youll want to get your patio or outdoor living space set up just right. From our favorite fire pit to an inflatable hot tub, here are some of our favorite things for your outdoor oasis.

Solo Stove Bonfire 2.0

Bestway SaluSpa Outdoor Inflatable Hot Tub

Seizeen Outdoor Storage Box

Wanme Retractable Privacy Screen

Cleaning Supplies

Sorry, youre going to have toclean your house. However, if you follow a fewsimple cleaning tipsand usethe right equipment, itll be easier than you think. Here are a few things to get you started.

Shark Rocket DuoClean Vacuum

Casabella Original Mop

Rocco & Roxie Stain & Odor Eliminator

O-Cedar Pet Pro Broom

Storage Solutions

You dont want to live out of boxes forever. Having the rightstorage solutions for your homemakes it easy to unpack without leaving a trail of clutter.

Clear Weathertight Tote

17 Stories Corner Bookcase

Akro-Mils Plastic Parts Drawer Storage

StorageWorks Storage Bins for Shelves

Design and Decor

After moving in and unpacking, the next step is dialing in your interior design. Even if you choose to wait to fully launch into theinterior design for your home, you will want some basic furniture and accessories to start enjoying your new home right away. Remember as you get started that quality furniture can last a lifetime if youtake good care of it.

Letterfolk Tile Mat

Yoolax Motorized Blind Shade

Rae Round Marble Bistro Table

Oliver 2-Piece Chaise Sectional

Garage Organization

Your garage is for more than just cars. Its oftena workshopand the place where your adventures begin. But youll want toorganize your garageso that its not a cluttered mess keeping you from doing the things you want.

From customizable garage cabinets to bike racks, here are our favorite garage organizers.

NewAge Products Steel Cabinet Set

Stkr Concepts Parking Sensor

StoreYourBoard Essential Garage Rack

Amazon Basics Heavy Duty Shelving Unit

Home Security

Home security is more than justkeeping your home safe from unwanted intruderswith home security systemsthough thats important, tooits also about preventing and being prepared for emergencies with things like flashlights and fire extinguishers.

Ring 8-Piece Alarm Security Kit

GearLight LED Flashlight

First Alert Onelink Safe & Sound

First Alert Home Fire Extinguisher

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How To Install a Hard Wired Smoke Detector

Samuel Rosenmayer — Wed, 31 Mar 2021 04:00:08 +0000

Installing a hard wired smoke detector is an essential safety measure for any home. It provides peace of mind and could be a lifesaver in the event of a fire.

Installation involves connecting the new detector to others throughout your home. This ensures all alarms sound simultaneously when one detects smoke or gas. I admit, its not the most fun activity to do over the weekend. But I knocked it out a lot faster than I expected.

Side note: If you have children, other people or pets in the home who dislike the sound of annoyingly loud smoke alarms, maybe do this when they’re not around. I made sure to put my dog in the backyard because I know loud noises scare him.

New detectors are relatively inexpensive; the ones I picked up were less than $30. If you are planning to replace more than one smoke detector, buy multiples of the same brand and model and replace them all at the same time to prevent any complications.

Remove and disconnect the old smoke detector

Safety first: Before starting any electrical work, turn off the power at the breaker panel. Use an electrical tester to verify the power is off.

Twist your old smoke detector to loosen it from its mounting plate. Disconnect the old wiring harness from the wires in the remodeling box and unscrew the plate.

The post How To Install a Hard Wired Smoke Detector appeared first on Family Handyman.

12 Best Home Improvement Projects Under $100

Alex Shoemaker — Thu, 11 Mar 2021 22:02:26 +0000

Replace an Outdated Faucet

A new kitchen faucet is a huge plus and definitely stands out to home buyers. Faucets vary widely in price, but there are plenty of affordable, modern faucet options available for under $100.

The post 12 Best Home Improvement Projects Under $100 appeared first on Family Handyman.

10 Bad DIY Habits You Need to Stop Doing Immediately

Alex Shoemaker — Wed, 03 Mar 2021 19:34:49 +0000

Improper Safety Equipment Usage

Using proper safety equipment is important whether you’re making one cut or 100. Whether it’s eyewear, ear protection, gloves, shoes or something else, always make sure you’re taking the necessary safety measures.

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