Removing popcorn texture from a ceiling is a messy chore but worth the effort if the substrate underneath is in sound shape. Here are some tips to take some of the pain out of scraping the popcorn texture off your ceiling.
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When learning how to remove popcorn ceilings, scrape a small test area first before committing to all the trouble of prepping the room. Try it dry first, then dampen it with water and try again. Some texture comes off easily without water, but in most cases wetting it is most effective. In the event that the water does not soak into the texture and soften it, the ceiling has probably been painted or paint has been added to the texture mix. In that case, wetting the ceiling may not help. You’ll have to decide whether you want to tackle a difficult scraping job or choose another way to hide your popcorn ceiling.
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]]>The post 10 Apartment Repairs and Maintenance You Can Do Yourself appeared first on Family Handyman.
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Nine out of ten clogs in kitchen and bathroom sinks can be cleared with little effort. Usually a few pumps with a plunger does it. When hair causes a clog, a zip-it tool easily removes the soap-laden mess.
Clogs you can’t clear this way are deeper in the pipes and may call for more intrusive methods, including disassembly of the P-trap. That’s a job a competent tenant can DIY, but you need permission from the landlord in case something goes wrong.
Definitely don’t use chemical drain cleaners without the landlord’s permission. The wrong ones can harm septic systems and damage pipes.
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]]>Most windows are installed using wood jamb extensions to finish the rough opening; these pieces extend the window jamb to the interior wall. Window trim then covers the jamb extension and provides the finished and trimmed look we all know.
In the Getaway, we used drywall in place of jamb extensions and wood trim. This drywall return method finishes our windows with a modern trimless look. It required a bit more drywall work, but saved us time and money by eliminating wood trim and its finish carpentry.
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Two-part filler has to be mixed and it doesn't rinse off with water, so it's not as user friendly as other fillers. However, it's much tougher and a much better choice for any hole bigger than a nail head, especially outdoors. And it's not just for wood—you can patch metal, fiberglass—even concrete.
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]]>The post How to Hang Drywall: Pro Tips for Cutting and Installing appeared first on Family Handyman.
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It’s tempting to cut the first piece of an outside corner flush with the framing and run the perpendicular piece flush with the first. Don’t do it. If you run the first piece just a little too long, the second piece will flare out. If you cut the second piece a bit too long, it will have to be shaved down to accommodate the corner bead. A good-quality metal corner bead will cover a gap and hold up as well as a perfectly flush cornerwithout the fuss.
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]]>The post Taping Drywall Tips: How to Tape Drywall Joints appeared first on Family Handyman.
]]>Properly taping drywall is a fine art but fortunately, you don’t need to be naturally gifted to get the hang of it. These tips and step-by-step tricks of the trade will help you achieve invisible seams and smooth walls.
When dry and hard, setting compound (top photo) completely fills the void, preparing the joint for the tape and next coat. Setting-type compound comes in sacks with various hardening rates printed on the bags20, 45- or 90-minutes. Buy ‘lightweight’ setting-type compound, because it’s sandable in case you overfill.
Regular compound (bottom photo) shrinks as it dries and results in a weak joint that you have to refill. It also takes hours to dry and harden.
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My design is similar to one we featured 65 years ago. The building process was much the same, but I upgraded the plywood, used modern ball-bearing slides, and chose concealed push latches for a clean look. Hidden behind the paneled wall is a lot of accessible, organized storage space.
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When you need to hang something in a spot without a stud, drywall anchors are the way to go. But how much weight can drywall anchors hold? We were skeptical. So we picked up some drywall anchors at a local home center and a few others online to subject them to a stress test. Heres what we found.
We installed each anchor in one-half in. drywall, following the manufacturers instructions. Then we hung a tension scale from the anchor and fastened it to a hook screwed into a 2×4 fastened to the wall studs. We slowly twisted the turnbuckle and watched as the tension increased until the anchor buckled. Here’s how we tested each drywall anchor:
Tension scale: When tension is applied, this scale measures weight in pounds.
Turnbuckle: Turning increases the tension on the scale, providing a weight reading.
Hold-down: A 2×4 screwed to studs provides a solid base.
Check out this compilation of tips for working with drywall to make your next build or repair easier.
All the anchors we tested lived up to the claims, and all but one exceeded their weight rating.
Given the modest claim, we didnt expect much from these, but we were amazed by their strength.
This heavier-duty anchor snaps into place when the screw is installed, but it performed about the same as the Everbilt Ribbed.
This anchor clips to the back of the drywall and creates a tight bond. In our test, it held more than twice its rated weight.
The E-Z Ancor is a great multipurpose choice. Theyre widely available, inexpensive and easy to install (no need to drill a hole).
This anchor held strong at 180 lbs., and we couldnt turn the turnbuckle any more. Theyre overkill for most projects, but sometimes the job calls for maximum strength.
This anchor screws into drywall. Then, as you drive in a screw, a metal arm tightens against the back of the drywall.
Easy to install with no drilling required (use a hammer), this stays true to its weight rating. But once over that, several popped right out of the drywall, leaving a big hole.
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If you need to build a quick table, here’s a great way to make the legs. We’ve used this design to make tables for cabins, and utility tables for the shop and yard. Each leg is made from a 1×6, ripped to make two tapered pieces. Glue and nail (or screw) the two pieces together, sand as much as you feel is necessary, and you’re done. The taper jig is quick to make, but it works only for this particular taper.
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Removing plaster and lath is always an ugly ordeal, but my first try, 25 years ago, was the worst. I made every mistake in the bookmistakes that cost me time, frustration and blood. Since then, Ive gotten smarter. Read on and I’ll show you how to remove plaster and lath faster, safer and better.
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]]>The post How to Make a Doorway Into an Arch appeared first on Family Handyman.
]]>Converting a plain doorway into a curved arch is a relatively straightforward project that requires some carpentry and drywall taping skills. You’ll need to frame a curved arch, bend and fasten a strip of drywall to the curved framing, and then install a flexible corner bead. None of these steps are difficult, but it’s fussy work.
First cut away the drywall inside the opening to expose the framing. Don’t worry if you break it back a few inches on the walls. Next determine the style and size of the arch (half circle, partial circle or ellipse) and make a pattern out of cardboard. Tape this up in the opening to make sure it looks OK and leaves enough headroom.
Use this template to mark out and cut two 1/2-in.-thick plywood arches. Next cut a 6-ft. 2×4 down to 2-1/2 in. wide (or 2 in. narrower than the total wall thickness).Cut one top block and two side blocks and nail them to the door framing. Center them so that the 1/2-in. plywood arches will sit flush with the existing framing. Now nail the arched plywood into place on both sides.
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]]>The post How To Cut a Perfectly-Sized Hole in Drywall for Lights and Electrical Boxes appeared first on Family Handyman.
]]>One of the most frustrating and time-consuming parts of hanging drywall is cutting all those holes for electrical boxes and lights. Cut them too small and you have to take the piece down and recut it. Cut them too big and you’ve got a bigger taping job on your hands, or you wind up throwing away the sheet and starting over.
Here we’ll show you how to cut electrical box openings in drywall that fit perfectly the first timewithout broken corners and especially without being too big. Oversized holes are a hassle to fix and look tacky with those big plate covers.
To fix busted edges on the holes in your drywall, you have to cut away all loose paper and broken drywall and fill the gap with setting joint compound. Then you have to apply tape and several coats of regular taping compound. Work carefully to avoid the hassle!
Cutting openings for recessed lights can be tricky because you have to measure over your head and then transfer the numbers to a sheet that’s sitting on the floor. It’s easy to get confused and lay out the openings from the wrong edge and wind up with holes cut in the wrong place. Then you’ve got a 55-lb.piece of trash on your hands.
When you’re staring at the sheet trying to figure out which end or side to measure from, pantomime swinging the sheet up into place instead of doing the mental gymnastics. Then mark on the sheet the side and end to pull your tape measure from. You’ll never go wrong.
You can cut drywall openings for recessed lights by laying them, drawing a circle with a compass and cutting the openings with am electric drywall saw. But if you have several recessed light openings to cut out, invest in a circle cutter. It works like a compass and cuts large circles fast and accurately.
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]]>The post How To Cut Drywall Like a Pro appeared first on Family Handyman.
]]>When you’re hanging drywall, there’s more at stake than saving money or keeping on schedule. The next step, taping, is the toughest part of drywalling, and the keys to saving time and effort are making accurate cuts and knowing the tolerances. If a taper has to fix poor cuts, big gaps and ragged ends, you’ll eat up all the money you saved by hanging the drywall yourself. This photo series shows the basics of drywall cutting and the tools you’ll need for fast, accurate cuts. It concentrates on cutting to length, cutting door openings and ripping.
Score, snap and cut
Ninety percent of the cuts made on any drywall-hanging job consist of three basic steps: scoring the front paper, snapping and folding open the sheet, and cutting through the paper on the back. You’ll use variations on that theme for nearly every cut. Other cuts are made with two types of drywall saws: a small keyhole-type saw for short cuts (mostly electrical box openings) and a larger coarse-tooth saw for longer cuts like those around doors.
Working with drywall
Drywall is really just a simple sandwich of mined gypsum rock encased in a wrapper of recycled paper (hence one brand name, Sheetrock). Although neither component has much inherent strength, when combined they form a remarkably strong, highly fire-resistant wall sheathing. When you score the paper with a utility knife, the crumbly gypsum breaks cleanly, directly in line with the score.
When you’re scoring with a utility knife, use only enough pressure to barely cut the paper. Cutting deeply into the gypsum core will only result in dull knives and a strained wrist. When the blade stops cutting cleanly, you’ll notice the paper begin to tear behind the knife edge as you score. That’s when it’s time to change blades.
Here are a few hanging tips to help the job go smoother and with less waste:
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]]>The post How To Fix an Electrical Box Cutout That’s Too Big appeared first on Family Handyman.
]]>If you’re doing your own drywall and electrical work, some mistakes are easy to make. Maybe you measured wrong. Or maybe you just got a little carried away while cutting.
Whatever the issue, now you have to find a way to fix an electrical box cutout that’s too big. If you don’t, you’ll leave the outlets unprotected.
Sure, you can cover your mistake with jumbo electrical covers. But that doesn’t look very nice, especially compared to other boxes nearby. Fortunately, it’s not hard to fix this the right way and have your outlets look polished. Try this simple tip and no one will be the wiser.
First, bevel the edge of the drywall with a utility knife. Then fill in the gap with fast-setting joint compound.
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A bathroom remodel can be a stressful endeavor, whether it’s a DIY job or you hire a professional. However, when done right, the payoff can be enormous. If you’re getting ready to embark on a bathroom remodel, you want to get it right. You know you need to set a budget (and stick to it), have a plan and set a realistic timeline, but there’s so much more to think about. Here’s a look at some dos and don’ts of a bathroom remodel.
The surfaces you choose for your bathroom remodel should not only contribute to the overall aesthetic, they should be able to handle plenty of moisture. Porcelain tile is a favorite among bathroom designers when it comes to not only flooring, but walls and bathroom sinks because it resists staining, bacteria and odors, according to Build Direct. A tip: Opt for larger tiles to minimize grout lines and make upkeep easier.
If your bathroom remodel is a DIY project, you may be tempted to skip the often-pricey permits and inspections. However, this may result in some costly mishaps down the road (faulty wiring that results in a fire or leaking plumbing leaking through your ceiling). If you hire a contractor, they generally handle permits and inspections.
While you may be tempted to cut out storage to go for a larger walk-in shower or a longer vanity, you may regret this decision later. When planning your bathroom remodel, consider where you’ll keep bathroom essentials, linens and first-aid items.
Moving plumbing during a bathroom remodel may cost you big time. Unless you are dealing with a very challenging or cramped space, try your best not to make changes to your home’s plumbing system as it’s not always worth the extra expense. In some cases you can triple your plumbing costs if you rearrange the layout of the toilet, sink and shower, Nick Schiffer, owner of NS Builders, told Architectural Digest.
Make sure the space is properly ventilated as moisture breeds mold and mildew and can take its tool on finishes and surfaces. In addition, you’ll want to ensure your bathroom has plenty of light. Install a ceiling fixture for general light, but depending on the layout of your bathroom, you may want to add sconces near the vanity and task lighting in a shower.
When planning your bathroom remodel, think about the long term. While you may be tempted to add a trendy mirror, lighting or tile, don’t go overboard when bringing your bathroom up-to-date, as trends come and go. Opt for practical fixtures that won’t lose their appeal in the next few years. Here are some tips and tricks to replace a towel bar on tiles.
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]]>The post Paper vs. Mesh Drywall Tape: Which One Should You Use? appeared first on Family Handyman.
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Chances are you’ve seen paper and fiberglass mesh drywall tape on the shelves of your local home improvement store. What’s the difference? To help you choose the better tape for your application, we’ll look at three factors: adhesion, strength/flexibility and moisture resistance.
Mesh drywall tape has a tacky backing, allowing it to stick to the wall on its own. Paper tape needs to be embedded in a layer of joint compound. This makes mesh tape easier for the average DIYer to install on a flat length of wall.
Most paper tape also comes with a factory crease in the center. This allows the installer to fold the tape in half, forming a right angle that makes it extremely easy to cover inside or outside corners.
It’s possible to fold mesh tape, but it’s easy to get off center if done by hand. To apply mesh tape on corners, use a specialty mesh tape corner applicator and hit it with setting compound immediately. Of course, metal-reinforced paper tape makes for an even easier installation process and a resilient corner!
Hold both kinds of tape in your hand and you might think they bend the same. But the paper tape firms up dramatically after being embedded in mud, a little like papier-mch.
This added strength makes paper tape an especially good choice for butt joints. If you prefer mesh tape, skip the standard joint compound and use a setting mud, which dries firmer and provides additional strength.
Mesh tape, crafted from fiberglass, holds distinct advantages, particularly in environments where moisture is a concern. Its inherent mold-resistant properties make it an excellent option for areas prone to dampness, such as bathrooms and backsplashes. Given its resilience against the potential damage caused by water exposure, mesh tape proves to be a reliable solution in these situations.
Furthermore, the utility of mesh tape extends to specific applications like tile installations. When preparing backer boards for tiling projects, it’s essential to select an approved fiberglass tape. Mesh tape’s compatibility with these scenarios is noteworthy, as it aligns with the durability required for tile work. Its reinforced structure not only aids in preventing cracks and crevices but also ensures that the installation maintains its integrity over time, resulting in a sturdy foundation for the subsequent tile layers.
In essence, the mold-resistant qualities and adaptability of mesh tape, particularly in moisture-prone environments and tile installations, make it a pragmatic choice that contributes to the longevity and reliability of the overall construction project.
In general, paper drywall tape is slightly stronger and more versatile, but mesh tape has a more manageable learning curve and better moisture resistance. It comes down to personal preference: Use the tape you’re most comfortable with.
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On the first day of taping and mudding drywall, have these tools on hand:
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]]>But 15 million pounds of drywall is produced in the U.S. every year. Most of it goes on walls, but around 15 percent is leftover waste. What should be done with it?
Drywall is essentially gypsum (calcium sulfate) and water spread on paper backing and kiln-fired in 4-ft. x 8-ft. (or 10-ft. or 12-ft.) sheets. Calcium sulfate is a natural mineral with beneficial properties in your lawn or garden soil. It’s also reclaimable; a portion of the drywall sheets you buy at the home center is likely derived from recycled drywall.
But few if any curbside recycling programs allow drywall. That means you need to do some legwork if you’re a recycling advocate. It is possible, though. Inquire about bulky materials via a recycling clearinghouse such as 1-800-RECYCLING.
You can also re-purpose drywall by peeling off the paper. Just start at one corner and pull; it comes off pretty easily. Then crush the gypsum back into powder form and spread it on your garden or lawn. Gypsum can help improve soil structure and reduce erosion.
You can also add crushed drywall with the paper backing removed to your compost bin. Be aware, though, that decomposing drywall gypsum is notoriously smelly.
If you are a DIYer, it makes sense to keep a few usable scraps of drywall around for repairs. Otherwise, you’ll end up buying an entire 4 x 8 sheet for a relatively small fix. If you are a creative type, know the paper backing on drywall takes paint well. You can use drywall as a canvas for your artwork.
Unless you can recycle or repurpose it, it’s best to get rid of leftover drywall. Garbage haulers generally will take it if it’s broken down and bagged up. If you are keeping some, store it in a dry space, since drywall (expect for the special mold-resistant kind) is a hospitable host for mold and mildew.
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Making sure the bandsaw blade is perpendicular to the table is especially important when you’re re-sawing a wide board. For the best results, raise the guidepost all the way and use a square with an arm that matches the saw’s re-saw capacity (left). Adjust the table so no gaps appear between the blade and the arm. Next, make sure the board has a square corner. That way it will ride flush against both the tall fence and the table during the cut.
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]]>The post Tips and Techniques for Sanding Drywall appeared first on Family Handyman.
]]>As with most remodeling tasks, having the right tools is the key to a top-notch job. For drywall sanding, you’ll need a hand sander, a package of 150-grit drywall sanding paper that’s precut to fit your sander, and a sanding sponge for corners and detail sanding. You’ll also need a double-strap dust mask rated for nuisance dust and goggles to keep the dust out of your eyes. A hat or scarf to keep the dust out of your hair is a good idea too.
Pole sanders are good for large sanding jobs. We didn’t show a drywall pole sander ($15) because it’s tricky to learn. But if you’ve got more than one room to sand, it may be worth the effort to pick up a drywall pole sander. The trouble with a drywall pole sander is that if you’re not careful, the sander can flip over and gouge the surface, causing extra repair work. One tip is to keep the sanding head angled slightly and never let it get at a right angle to the pole. A drywall pole sander works great for sanding the drywall primer coat before painting, a step that requires minimal control and pressure.
Sand with light pressure along the edge of seams and around screws to avoid fuzzing the drywall paper. Sand the center of seams just enough to remove ridges and bumps.
If you’re not careful, drywall dust can drift through the house, forming a white film on everything in its path. It’s hard to get rid of, too. You may have heard about smoothing the joints with a damp sponge rather than sandpaper to avoid the dust. But it’s nearly impossible to get a top-notch job with this method. There are dust-catching sanding systems on the market, but they’re expensive and tricky to learn. The best option is to suit up with protective gear.
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]]>The post How to Apply Knock Down Texture appeared first on Family Handyman.
]]>Ceilings are notorious for showing flaws. Light shining across that large, uninterrupted surface accentuates every pockmark in the drywall mud, every little ridge left by the paint roller.
The usual way to mask these troubles is to spray on acoustical popcorn texture. But I go with a knockdown texture on most ceilings, whether they’re new drywall, old plaster or a repaired ceiling of any type. If your walls or ceilings are damaged check out our wall and ceiling repair simplified guide: 11 Clever Tricks.
The beauty of knockdown drywall texture is that it not only hides imperfections but also creates a more subtle look than heavier textures. A typical ceiling takes less than an hour to texture and costs less than $20 in materials. Best of all, it’s almost impossible to get a how to texture drywall project wrongas long as you follow a few simple steps. To spray on the texture, I use a small electric texture gun. But a gun powered by an air compressor will work just as well to get textured walls. You can also findspray texture in a can at most home centers.
You can wipe up a ceiling texture or wall texture mess with a wet rag, but preventing a mess is a lot faster. Remove all furniture from the room, as well as floor coverings, light fixtures and wall hangings. I like to cover the floor with rosin paper instead of drop cloths because I can roll up the entire mess at the end of the job and drop it straight into the trash. I overlap each course of rosin paper about 6 in. and tape the seams before texturing walls.
Next, mask the top edges of the walls with 1-1/2-in. masking tape. Press the top half of the tape in a straight line along the top of the walls, just under the ceiling line. To the bottom half of the tape, adhere inexpensive 0.8 mil plastic drop cloths, bagging the entire room.
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]]>The post Drywall Finishing Tips From the Pros appeared first on Family Handyman.
]]>Making the joints in freshly hung drywall disappear behind a smooth, flawless taping job will try your patience. Resist the temptation to lower your quality standards. We’ll show you how to hang drywall like a pro.
In this story, well demonstrate tips and techniques that pros use to avoid the most irritating slow-ups and flaws. We show these tips roughly in the order youd use themdrywall prep, selecting your materials, applying the tape and three coats of compound, and sanding to finish up.
The pros we interviewed stressed a methodical approach; if you skip a step, chances are youll lose time later.Although you wont be able to work with the speed and dexterity of a pro, these tips will make your drywall finishing taping go faster, and itll look better for even the most inexperienced hand.
Weve hung and patched and primed and finished our fair share of drywall. Check out 20 of our expert tips for working with drywall to make your next build or repair easier.
While you’re at it, find out how to tape a drywall.
NOTE: We used water-resistant drywall finishing for visual contrastthe taped seams and strips are easier to see against its green color. Dont use water-resistant drywall on ceilings (it sags). Also, check with a building inspector; many areas do not permit its use on exterior house walls.
Making the joints in freshly hung drywall disappear behind a smooth, flawless taping job will try your patience. Many problems interrupt the smooth, efficient flow of your work:
Other little problemsscuff marks, dips and ridgeswont show up until the dust clears and you prime the walls with drywall primer. Going back to fix stuff is time-consuming and a lot of fuss.
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Regular (gray) drywall is the most common type of drywall and it’s the only kind many people are familiar with. All drywall has one thing as its coregypsum, a common mineral found globally. In regular drywall, and most other types as well, gypsum is sandwiched between two layers of paper. There is paper on the back (usually brown) and the face, which, in the case of regular drywall, is gray. It can be used throughout a house and comes in a number of drywall dimensionsthe most common size is a 4-foot by 8-foot sheet. And, as the most common type of drywall, it is also the cheapest, selling for about $12 per 4-foot by 8-foot sheet, depending on where you live.
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]]>Drywall sanding can be a tedious job. Its not only dirty and grueling but also stressful because now you have to fix any earlier mistakes. Good sanding results are built on the foundation of good drywall taping, and the final sanding is your last chance to get the whole job right. The paint job will reveal the truth: Either you succeededall the fasteners and seams look uniformly invisibleor any taping and sanding flaws are now glaringly apparent forevermore. No wonder so many homeowners choose to hire out drywall work.
Take heart: If youre patient and pay attention to detail, you can tackle this job with making some of the most common drywall mistakes. Well show you the sanding steps and finishing techniques the pros use to get sanding done quickly to make smooth walls.
Drywall dust is fine, like flour, and will travel to other areas of the house. To prepare your house for the work ahead and reduce this dust, follow these steps:
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Taping drywall can be a frustrating, gut-wrenching experience, even if you’ve got a solid grip on basic drywall skills. Nagging flaws will show up right after painting and even months later. Nail pops, corner-bead cracks and bad joints will plague your walls forever.
To make your next taping job more successful, we’ve come up with a novice-friendly guide for getting good results and how to mud drywall. We’ve simplified professional techniques so you can learn them easily and recommended the basic tools and materials you’ll need to achieve smooth, flat walls ready for paint.
Since 90 percent of the cost of a professional job is labor, taping your walls yourself can save you several hundred dollars, even on small jobs. The key is a methodical, step-by-step approach with the proper tools and materials. Otherwise, taping will drive you nuts.
We’ll show you how to avoid the most common rookie mistake: heaping on drywall mud and then counting on a massive (and filthy) sanding effort at the end to rectify mistakes. We’ll also show you how to gradually build up layers and feather edges to avoid ridges and knock off high areas of freshly applied mud.
We’ve added color to each coat of drywall mud to make it easier to see the proper order of application. The first coat is orange, the second green and the third yellow.
You’ll find a mind-boggling assortment of gimmicky taping tools at home centers. The truth is, most aren’t worth having and you can do an excellent job with just the ones we recommend. Banjos and clinchers can speed up and improve the job. They’re a must for larger rooms with lots of corners. But for small jobs, skip the banjo, and if you only have a few corner beads to do, nail them on by hand and skip the clincher too.
1. Four-inch flexible putty knife for small filling jobs and applying second and third coat mud to angles (inside corners).
2. Six-inch flexible putty knife for larger filling jobs, embedding tape and filling fastener holes.
3. Potato masher mixer for hand-mixing a bucket of mud quickly and thoroughly.
4. Mud pan for convenient dispensing of patching, fastener hole and corner mud.
5. A clincher makes quick work of crimping corner beads accurately in place to hold them for nailing.
6. A 12-in. trowel is less fatiguing and easier to use for applying mud to the joints and corner beads than the standard wide taping knives.
7. A banjo is essential for all but the smallest taping jobs for dispensing mud-saturated tape right onto the drywall joints.
Just as with drywall mud tools, there are many new drywall products on the market purporting to make taping easier. But talk to a pro and you’ll find that few of them work any better or are any more durable than the old-fashioned taping supplies like paper tape and 1-1/4 in. solid metal corner beads.
Pick up enough corner beads to cover every corner with a single beadno splicing!plus one or two extras to replace mistakes. You’ll also need a small box of 1-5/8 in. drywall nails for fastening the corner beads. One roll of paper tape is usually plenty for the average-sized room, but they’re only a couple of bucks, so get two in case you come up short.
Score the paper around broken corners, blisters or other damaged areas in the drywall with a utility knife. Peel the paper away and remove any broken or loose gypsum core. Lightly sand rough paper and scored edges with a sanding sponge.
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]]>The post Drywall Butt Joints Made Easy appeared first on Family Handyman.
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Where two tapered edges of drywall meet, they create a shallow recess that makes taping easy. Just drag your knife over the joint andafter the third coat of mudyoull have a perfectly flat surface. Here are a few tips for improving your taping drywall skills and increasing your speed.
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Before we get too far into the hacks and tricks, let’s pause a moment to make sure we all understand the basics of marking for a cut. It’s always best practice to mark the board where the saw will make it’s first contact. For a circular saw, that’s usually at the edge of the board, while a miter saw cut should be marked in the middle of the board. When possible, mark with a ‘V’ to reduce the chances of favoring one side of the line or the other.Check out this video on marking a board before cutting with a miter saw.
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]]>Applying a knockdown texture is an easy, low-cost, low-tech project that can dramatically change a room’s appearance and simplify wall repairs. The name comes from one of the final steps in the project, when you use a wide knife to knock down and flatten the peaks of the texture applied to the walls. This step gives the texture its stucco-like appearance.
To texture the walls and ceiling of an average room, the rental sprayer, the joint compound and the knockdown knife will set you back only about $70 to $80, and you’ll be finished in one day. These are the three components you’ll use:
To make this project as easy as possible, use premixed all-purpose joint compound. These buckets contain about 60 lbs. of mud and are available at most home centers for $9 to $10 each. Don’t use the lightweight premixed compoundsyou’ll be paying for a lot of air, and the mix won’t be as sticky as the all-purpose. It generally takes 1-1/2 to two full buckets of mud to texture the walls and ceiling of an average-size (12 x 12 foot) room.
Traditionally, knockdown textures were done with flat trowels or wide steel taping knives. However, the trowel technique is hard to master. A much better choice is to use one of the flexible Lexan knockdown knives now available at drywall supply stores. These knives are 18 to 24 inches wide and cost $15 to $18. Here’s what you need to know about the types of drywall texture.
You’ll need to rent an acoustical spray gun, hopper and compressor from a rental center or paint store for this project. Although home compressors work fine for the initial orange peel coat, they won’t produce the volume of air you need for the heavier topcoat.
Expect to pay $25 to $30 for a one-day rental. While you’re still at the rental store, be sure to put the machine through a dry run to be certain it works. Also, remove the hopper from the gun and make sure the inside of the gun is clean. Look for a trigger adjustment on the gun. It allows you to control the fluid flow. The recipes in this article will give you the just-right mixes for your project.
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Dampen a special drywall sponge and smooth out flaws in your final coat of compound.You may be tempted to use MDF (medium density fiberboard) on walls rather than drywall to avoid the dust when sanding the joint compound. Indeed, MDF would make a nice, smooth wall surface, and it’s often used for painted panels in wainscoting. It’s much more dimensionally stable than wood. But it still moves. Relative humidity fluctuations could cause a 4-ft. panel to expand and contract as much as 1/8 in. This would open a crack somewhere, even if you glued and splined the edges of panels to one another.
20 Tips for Working with Drywall
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Patches made with traditional patching materials need to be primed with a sealing-type primer before painting. Otherwise the patched areas could show through the finished paint job as foggy spots. But if you patch with a self-priming patching material, you can avoid this extra step. There are several brands; just look for the words 'self-priming' or 'with primer' on the container.
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