Renew an old concrete patio with decorative brick or concrete pavers. No need to tear out an ugly slab—just hide it!
Time Multiple Days
ComplexityIntermediate
Cost$600 to $1200
Introduction
Renew an old concrete patio with decorative brick or concrete pavers. No need to tear out an ugly slab—just hide it!
Concrete pavers can be a low-cost, DIY way to transform your tired, dull concrete patio into an attractive outdoor living space. If your concrete patio is in good condition, skip the backbreaking (and costly!) step of removing it and simply install pavers directly over it. Laying pavers over a concrete patio is much easier than pouring new concrete or laying paving stones the traditional way. It requires less skill and less time, and is a whole lot easier on your back.
This technique requires two types of pavers. Glue thicker pavers to the concrete on the perimeter and lay thinner pavers on a sand bed on the interior space. The resulting look is one of our favorite patio ideas. Here we’ll walk you through how to lay paving stones over concrete with help from two industry pros – Ricky Latterreur from Latterreur Landscapes and Gardens and Paul Ricalde from Paul’s Toolbox.
What Are Concrete Pavers?
Concrete pavers are modular bricks made of concrete that are used to pave driveways, patios and walkways. Available in a wide variety of colors, sizes and styles, you can get creative with the design and layout of most paver projects. They are also easy to handle and require simple installation tools and materials, making pavers a great choice for DIY enthusiasts.
Interlocking pavers offer a more uniform look and have built-in spacers for exact joint spacing. Slab pavers have a more natural, varied look that resembles stone and can have varying joint widths.
Will It Work on Your Patio?
This project will work with most patios. Surface damage like flaking, chips and craters is no problem. “If the concrete is level, without erosion or large cracks it’s a good candidate,” Ricalde says. But a few conditions make this method a no-go:
- A too-low threshold: Door thresholds have to be high enough above the existing patio to allow for the thickness of the border pavers, plus an extra 3/4 inch to allow for “frost heave”—rising of the slab when the soil freezes.
- Expanding cracks: This method will work over most cracks — which grow and shrink with seasonal ground movement. But if you have a crack that has noticeably grown in recent years, this method is risky. The crack may eventually “telegraph” through the pavers, creating a hump or gaps.
Pros and Cons of Putting Pavers Over Concrete
Carefully consider these pros and cons before deciding if this project is for you.
Pros
- Installing pavers over a concrete patio saves time, money and labor.
- A standard paver patio rests on a thick base of compacted gravel. This patio cover-up will save you the cost of that gravel. More importantly, it eliminates the backbreaking drudgery of breaking up concrete, digging up soil, hauling it all away and hauling in gravel. On this 12 x 14-ft. patio, a patio tear-out and new gravel base would have meant more than 12 extra tons of wheelbarrow work.
Cons
- Putting pavers over concrete increases the patio height, which can conflict with connecting pathways, stairs or door clearances. “Make sure the paver’s height is not going to impede with a door entry, window wells or steps,” Ricalde says.
- For this project, design options are somewhat limited, as you need to choose border and field pavers of certain thicknesses.
Safety Precautions (if any)
Follow safety protocols when using power tools. Wear eye protection, a dust mask and leather gloves when cutting pavers and operating the plate compactor.
When to Call a Pro
If your concrete patio has large cracks or sinking panels, consult with a pro. Removal of the existing concrete may be necessary.
Before You Begin
The primary tools for this project will be used to cut pavers to size. There are a few options to choose from that will get the job done. Ricalde likes to use a tile saw with a larger diamond blade to cut through thicker paver dimensions. You can also use a 4-in. angle grinder with a diamond wheel or rent a concrete saw.
Rent a plate compactor to tamp down the installed pavers. Most home centers and tool rental businesses will have this tool available.
Regarding materials, this technique requires two types of pavers. The pavers used for the border must be at least 3/4 inch thicker than the field pavers, which cover the area between the borders. That thickness difference will allow for a bed of sand under the field. A more than 3/4 inch difference is fine; you’ll just need a little more sand.
To estimate how much sand you’ll need, determine the square footage of the sand bed. Divide that number by 12 for a 1-in. bed or 18 for a 3/4-in. bed.
As for the screed pipe, a 10-ft. section of black or galvanized steel plumbing pipe works best. For a 1-in. bed, use 3/4-in. pipe; for a 3/4-in. bed, use 1/2-in. pipe.
Remember that each pipe size is listed by its inner diameter, but the outer diameter is what matters here: 3/4-in. pipe has an outer diameter of about 1-1/8 in.; 1/2-in. pipe, about 5/8 in. In both cases, you’ll get an extra 1/8 in. of sand bed thickness and the field pavers will stand about 1/8 inch above the border pavers.
Then, when you tamp the field with a plate compactor, the sand will compact, and the field pavers will settle flush with the border.
Tools Required
- 4-in. angle grinder with diamond wheel
- Angle broom
- Bucket
- Caulk gun
- Chalk line
- Concrete saw
- Dust mask
- Extension cord
- Hose with spray nozzle
- Jigsaw
- Leaf Blower
- Leather gloves
- Pencil
- Plate compactor (rental)
- Push broom
- safety goggles
- Saw horses
- Scrub brush with handle
- Shovel
- Tape measure
- Tile saw with diamond blade
- Utility knife
- Wheelbarrow
Materials Required
- 2x6 board
- Border pavers
- Concrete cleaner
- Field pavers
- Landscape fabric
- Mason sand
- Polymeric sand
- Polyurethane construction adhesive
- Screed pipe
Project step-by-step (14)
Step 1
Scrub the perimeter
Clean the edges of the patio where you’ll later glue down the border pavers. Clean concrete means a stronger glue bond.
- Scrub the border area with a concrete cleaner. Any stiff brush will do, but a deck stripping brush on a broom handle makes it easier.
- Hose down the patio when you’re done scrubbing the border.
- Rinse thoroughly and let dry.
Step 2
Mark the primary chalk line for border pavers
While the concrete is drying, grab a tape measure and a chalk line and carefully plan the locations of the borders.
- Snap a chalk line parallel to the house to mark the location of the primary border pavers. Remember to leave a gap of at least 1/4 inch between the border pavers and the house.
- Place a few border pavers along the chalk line.
Step 3
Mark the first side border
- Lay field pavers along the length of the primary chalk line to locate the side borders. The goal is to establish a field width that allows each course to end with a full or half paver, but not smaller pieces.
- With the field and border pavers still in place, snap a chalk line to mark the location of the first side border.
Step 4
Use the 3-4-5 method to check for square
It’s important to make sure the first side border is square with the primary chalk line. Do this using the 3-4-5 method.
- From the corner where the two chalk lines meet (near the house), measure and mark three feet along the side border and four feet along the primary border.
- Measure the distance between the ends to form a triangle.
- If this final measurement is five feet, the corner is square.
- If it’s not square, adjust the borders accordingly. “It’s important to get this angle right,” Laterreur says, “You want square corners.”
Step 5
Mark the second side border
- At the other end of the field pavers, mark the location of the other side border with a chalk line.
- Measure the distance between this side and the first side to ensure the two sides are parallel.
- Check measurements at three points along the chalk lines for accuracy.
Note: Leave the final border unmarked.
Step 6
Glue down the border pavers
- Using the chalk lines as a guide, glue down the border pavers along the house and two sides of the patio. We used polyurethane construction adhesive for a strong, long-lasting bond. If adhesive squishes up between pavers, don’t try to wipe it off. Just let it harden, then trim it off of the concrete patio blocks with a utility knife.
- After setting each paver, run a bead of construction adhesive up the side of it. That will keep the sand from washing out between pavers.
Note: Install the final border after the field is complete. That open end makes screeding off the excess sand easier and lets you position the final border perfectly.
Step 7
Lay landscape fabric, then sand
- Lay down landscape fabric in the remaining open space to keep the sand from washing down into expansion cracks in the concrete.
- Position the screed pipe near the center of the field.
- Use a wheelbarrow and shovel to lay sand onto the landscape fabric.
- Use the screed pipe as an approximate depth guide. “When it gets to the top of the pipe, you know it’s enough,” Ricalde says.
Step 8
Create a screed board
To flatten, or screed, the sand you’ll need first to make a screed board. The notched end of the board will match the depth of the field pavers minus 1/8 inch. The other board end rests on the screed pipe as you move it across the sand.
- Measure and mark 1/8 inch from the bottom of a field paver.
- Transfer this measurement onto one end of a 2×6.
- From this mark, measure and mark a five inch length.
- Cut and remove this area from the 2×6 with a jigsaw.
Step 9
Screed the sand
Screed both halves of the field, moving your screed pipe as you go.
- Begin at the top of the border pavers, near the house.
- Rest the notched end of the 2×6 onto the border pavers.
- Rest the other end of the board on the screed pipe.
- While maintaining contact between the board, border pavers and screed pipe, slowly move the board across the sand, removing excess sand as you go.
- Continue this process until the sand is all screed to the same height.
Note: Screeding is hard work and it’s best to have a helper.
Step 10
Lay the pavers
- Scrape away any excess sand.
- Cut off excess landscape fabric with a utility knife.
- Lay the field pavers onto the sand. “It’s best to lightly drop the pavers into place, rather than slide them,” Laterreur says, “Otherwise you drag the sand and change its thickness.”
Step 11
Glue the final border
- Sweep away any sand from the remaining border area.
- Glue down the final border pavers. To facilitate drainage, use vertical beads of adhesive that run parallel with the side borders. This enables water to drain away from the patio.
- Let the glue dry for a few hours before you tamp the field pavers and sweep sand across the patio to fill the joints.
Step 12
Tamp field pavers
Use a plate compactor to tamp the pavers into the sand.
- Set the plate compactor onto the pavers and start it. Hold the handle as you start it, as it will start moving forward.
- Move the compactor slowly back and forth across the pavers in an overlapping pattern.
- Continue compacting until the field pavers have compacted down to the same height as the border pavers.
Step 13
Finish with polymeric sand
“Use polymeric sand, not mason sand,” Laterreur says, “The polymers in the sand act like a glue to set the pavers into place.”
- Pour polymeric sand onto the field pavers.
- Use a push broom to sweep the sand into the gaps between the pavers. Sweep across the joints from different angles to avoid gaps in coverage.
- Use a leaf blower or an angle broom to sweep all remaining sand from the paver faces. “It’s important to make sure the pavers are all clean, or the sand will stick to the surface,” Laterreur says.
- Use a garden hose with a sprayer nozzle to lightly mist the polymeric sand. “Don’t use too much water, or it will wash out the sand,” Ricalde says.
- Let dry 24 hours before use.
Step 14
FAQ’s
How do you cut concrete pavers?
Cut concrete pavers using a tile saw with a diamond blade, a concrete saw or an angle grinder with a diamond wheel.
Are pavers cheaper than stamped concrete?
It depends. When not installing pavers over existing concrete, they cost more upfront than stamped concrete. However, pavers are less costly to maintain and repair, so over time, may end up costing less over the life of the patio.
Why not skip the sand and glue down all the pavers?
You could do that. But gluing down hundreds of pavers will add a few hours to the job, and you’ll spend at least $100 on adhesive.
About the Experts
- Ricky Laterreur is the owner of Laterreur Landscapes and Gardens in Longmeadow, Massachusetts. He offers hardscaping and landscaping services and has over fifteen years of industry experience.
- Paul Ricalde offers professional tips and how-to’s on his YouTube channel, Paul’s Toolbox with over 360, 000 followers. He has over 35 years in the construction industry.
