Hammer drills and rotary hammers are both excellent for drilling masonry. Rotary hammers are more powerful, though, and have a hammer-only mode with no rotation. They usually have an SDS chuck, which is better for hammering.

Sure, you can drill a hole or two in a concrete block with a regular drill and a masonry bit, but you’ll want to step it up a notch if you have a whole bunch of holes to drill into 50-year-old concrete. In this story, we’ll give you the lowdown on the differences between what is a hammer drill and a rotary hammer, and help you figure out which tool is right for you. We’ll also show you some cool bits and accessories and share some useful tips on how to get the most out of these handy tools.

Hammer Drill vs. Rotary Hammer

Hammer drills and rotary hammers (also called rotary hammer drills) both produce a pounding force that makes them extremely efficient at blasting through masonry. As the hammer drill spins, the bit chisels away at the masonry. The mechanical process that delivers this pounding action is what separates the two tools.

Figure A: Inside a Hammer Drill

A hammer drill has two discs that have ridges resembling the ridges on a poker chip (see Figure A). As one hammer drill disc slides past the other, it rises and falls, causing the chuck to slam forward and back. If there is no force on the chuck, the discs are separated by a clutch and the pounding action stops. This saves wear and tear. Many hammer drills can be used as a regular drill by switching off the hammering action.

Figure B: Inside a Rotary Hammer

A rotary hammer creates its pounding action with a piston driven by a crankshaft (see Figure B). The piston rides in a cylinder and creates air pressure when driven forward, and it’s the air pressure that actually drives the hammer mechanism. Rotary hammers provide a lot more impact energy than hammer drills. They’re much more durable and are the preferred tool of the pros. Another big advantage is that most rotary hammers have three settings: drill mode, hammer drill or just hammer, so they can act as a mini jackhammer. Of course, a rotary hammer costs more than a hammer drill, but more on that later.

Hammer Drill Bits

A hammer drill is perfect for light masonry. It works best at drilling holes in bricks, mortar and concrete blocks. But it can also handle the occasional hole in poured concrete.

You don’t need to spend tons of money on hammer drill bits, but more expensive bits are usually equipped with superior carbide tips, and the tips are more securely attached to the shank of the bits, which reduces breakage in heavy use.

Rotary Hammer Bits and Attachments

The most popular type of chuck on the shelves at home centers today is the SDS-Plus. SDS-Plus bits have grooves on the shanks that lock securely into the chuck but allow the bit to move back and forth independently of the chuck. They’re super easy to insert and removeno tools required. Some of the really big rotary hammers have a similar system, but larger called the SDS-Max. And there are a couple brands that have proprietary systems, so make sure the bit you buy matches the tool you’re using.

When set to hammer mode, rotary hammers can be used for all sorts of jobs, and there are a whole lot of attachments to get those jobs done.

A few of the more popular attachments are shown in the photo:

• Clay spade: Breaks up hard soil.
• Cold chisel: For busting up concrete.
• Tile remover: Works well for pulling up ceramic tiles.
• Bull point chisel: Used to start holes in concrete.
• Scaling chisel: Designed to remove rust, concrete and weld spatter.

If you already own a rotary hammer and are looking for a heavy-duty drill to bore large holes in wood or mix joint compound, consider buying an SDS-Plus chuck adapter (shown in the third photo). This adapter will allow you to use smooth-shank drill bits, hole saws and mixing paddles. Just remember to keep the setting on drill mode or you could destroy the chuck.

Rotary Hammers Are for Larger Jobs

Rotary hammers excel at drilling holes in hardened concrete. A rotary hammer can also be fitted with all sorts of other attachments.

Rotary Hammer Accessories

Rotary hammer accessories include a variety of chisels for scaling metal, breaking concrete, removing the tile and even digging the hard soil. (The one on the left is for an SDS-Max chuck.) You can also add a three-jaw chuck for regular drill bits.

SDS-Plus Chuck Adapter

This adapter will allow you to use smooth-shank drill bits, hole saws and mixing paddles. Just remember to keep the setting on drill mode or you could destroy the chuck.

Learn about 5 more must-have drill accessories here.

Choosing Between a Rebar Bit and Standard Bit

You can spend $50 on a hammer drill that will drill 1/2-in. holes in most masonry, but spending more will get you two things: the ability to drill bigger holes andmore importantfaster drilling, which is great when you have lots of holes to drill.

The pounding power of a hammer drill is measured in BPM (beats/blows per minute). But the BPM rating isn’t the whole story: Motor amperage and how the drill feels in your hands are more important. All-metal chucks are more durable than ones with plastic parts. And while keyless chucks are handy on a regular drill, they often don’t have the holding power needed for drilling into masonry. Chuck size often dictates the maximum recommended hole size the drill can handle.

The pounding power of a rotary hammer is measured in pounds of impact energy. When shopping for rotary hammers, more amp power is good, but more impact energy is even more important. Rotary hammers are categorized by the maximum-size hole recommended by the manufacturer, but that doesn’t mean they can’t drill a larger hole once in a while. If you need a drill for nothing but 7/8-in. holes, buy a larger drill that won’t have to work at its maximum capacity all the time.

Cordless Drills

If you already own cordless tools, check to see whether the same company makes a hammer drill or rotary hammer that works with the same batteries. Sometimes you can buy a cordless tool without the battery cheaper than you can buy a corded one.

4 Tips for Drilling Into Concrete

1. Clear the Debris

The flutes on a drill bit are designed to pull up the debris from the hole as you drill, but the best way to clear the hole is to occasionally pull the bit out of the hole as you’re drilling. Less debris in the hole reduces friction, which means smoother drilling, less chance of binding and longer-lasting drill bits.

2. Don’t Push Too Hard

There’s a sweet spot where the right rpm combined with the right pressure drills fastest. But you won’t find that sweet spot by pushing down as hard as you can. In fact, too much pressure will slow the drilling process and put a whole lot of unnecessary wear and tear on the motor gears. Plus, you’ll break bits.

3. Avoid Over Drilling

Most hammer drills and rotary hammers are sold with a side handle and depth stop. Do yourself a favor and use them. There’s no reason to burn up both time and bits by drilling deeper holes than you need to. And you don’t always want to drill all the way through a concrete block to its hollow coresome plastic anchors need a back to stop them or they will get pushed right through the hole.

4. Drill a Smaller Hole First

If you need to drill a couple holes that are larger than the recommended capacity of your drill, start with a smaller hole first. This will significantly reduce the load on the drill. Also, smaller bits don’t skate around as much as larger bits do, which is helpful when you need a hole in a precise spot.

Learn some tips for getting the most out of your drill press here.

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To build my concrete bench, I used three bags of Quikrete 5000 to pour the top and both legs. These bags are heavy 80 lbs. each so three bags will probably weigh about as much as your big Uncle Billy. It’s certainly deliverable in a standard passenger car.

Don’t substitute anything else for this mix. The 5000 formula has high early strength and will retain its integrity when you remove the forms, guaranteeing a sturdy, crack-free bench.

Along with the four-foot lengths of rebar, be sure you’ve got a mixing tub like the one shown here or a wheelbarrow with a shovel. You’ll also need a garden hoe for mixing, a finishing trowel for smoothing, a half sheet of 3/4-in. plywood and a quarter sheet of 1/2-in. plywood.

You should also pick up some acrylic wood finish, paste wax and a small box of 2-in. self-drilling wood screws (GRK fasteners). The materials will cost about $75.

See the drawings below for the dimensions of the bench forms.

Cut the Form Pieces

Cut the form pieces with a table saw or a circular saw with a guide for consistent straight cuts. Assemble the form using 2-in. wood screws to secure the parts of the form. Some clamps will come in handy to help bend the pieces as you assemble.

The post How To Build A Stone Inlay Concrete Bench appeared first on Family Handyman.

Traditional Gray Slab

When you think of concrete countertops, this might be the first image that pops into your mind. This is about as traditional as you can get. The countertop is understated and the color resembles what a crayon called “concrete slab” would look like. If you want the basic concrete look, you can definitely make it work.If you want a small concrete table to match your countertops, you can make it yourselfhere’s how!

The post 15 Concrete Countertops We Think Are Really Cool appeared first on Family Handyman.

Curbappeal

A shabby stoopcan crusha homesoverallcurb appeal.Andwhile buildingconcrete stepsis more complicated than pouring a simple sidewalk, its probably not as hard as you might think.We spent the day with themasonsatAbove Quality Inc., and they showed us how they pour concrete steps that look great and will last for decades.Theygave ussimplestep-by-stepinstructions thateven a beginnercould follow and some great tips that long-time pros will appreciate.

The post How to Build Cement Steps appeared first on Family Handyman.

Don’t Drill too Close to Edges

Two mistakes you really want to avoid are busting off a chunk of a concrete stair step and cracking the corner of a patio slab. To avoid these disasters, don’t drill any closer than 4 in. from the edge. If there’s no other option, turn off the hammering action on the drill. Also, avoid wedge-type anchors. They exert a ton of outward pressure, which could literally wedge the concrete apart.

The post Tips for Concrete Fasteners and Masonry Screws appeared first on Family Handyman.

Spray foam really is a magical tool for household insulation. Although fiberglass has been commonly use for insulation, spray foam can actually outperform it. Plus, with so many ways you can use expanding foam, this material certainly is handy. Now only if it could help us out with all of those concrete problems

Oh wait, it actually can!

Geolift Spray Foam

Demilec, a company located in Texas, has invented a type of insulation foam that can help all of the cracks and uneven pavement problems. Geolift can help to lift existing concrete surfaces and fix those problem areas around your house with much less labor. Geolift works for driveways, sidewalks, patios, garage floors, even pool decks. And yes, it is a foam, just like your beloved spray foam!

How Geolift Works

Geolift works in three steps. The first step is to drill holes in the problem concrete. Holes should be no less than six inches away from the edge of the concrete.

Once the holes have been set, the Geolift is injected in between the concrete and the dirt. The foam will fill up the parts of the concrete that are uneven and will raise it to the proper height.

After the Geolift has done its magical work, the last thing left to do is patching up the holes. Patch up the holes with concrete, and your new driveway (or sidewalk, or walkway) will look good as new.

Geolift’s Pros and Cons

Not only will this magical foam help to meet codes and comply with your insurance, but the actual product is great for the environment. Geolift is made with 11 percent recyclable products (such as plastic and soy beans) and uses zero-ODP blowing agents.

Unfortunately, Geolift isnt something you can just go buy at a store. But you can contact Demilec for all the parts and equipment you need. It may sound pricey, but trust us; its going to make you look rich after comparing the prices of normal concrete demolition and renovation.

The post This Spray Foam Will Fix Any of Your Concrete Problems appeared first on Family Handyman.

How to build a concrete wall prep work: Materials, tools and site

The wall we built was a weekend-long project and an exhausting one at that. It took a day to rip out the old, collapsing retaining wall, to dig farther into the hill to provide room for the backfill gravel and to help unload materials. It took another day to install the base, blocks and backfill.

Before launching into this concrete retaining wall project, contact your local building code official. Depending on the height and location of your wall, there may be structural, drainage and setback (the distance from the wall to property line) considerations. A permit may be required.

Unless you own a heavy-duty truck (and back!), have your blocks, compactable base gravel, sand and backfill gravel delivered. Blocks may cost slightly more at specialty landscaping stores than at home centers, but landscaping stores are often better equipped to deliver the small batches of base, sand and gravel that you’ll need for installing the concrete retaining wall blocks. rolling yard.

Learn about choosing retaining wall material here.

The Versa-Lok brand retaining wall system we installed uses nylon pins to align and secure horizontal rows of 80-lb. blocks. Other block systems use lips, gravity and filled cores to connect rows and increase strength. Your system may differ, but most of the preparation and installation steps remain the same.

We used a transit level to establish a flat base. But unless you own or rent one and know how to use it properly, just use a 4-ft. level taped to a long, straight 2×4, especially for short walls. The tamper, brick tong and block chisel are available at rental yards.

How to Build a Concrete Wall Figure A: Cross-Section of a Retaining Wall

A cinder block retaining wall is only as straight and solid as the base it’s built on. For a 4-ft. tall wall, excavate a trench deep enough to accommodate 4 to 6 in. of compacted base, 1 in. of leveling sand and half the height of the first course of blocks. Step succeeding courses back 3/4 in., overlap vertical joints at least 4 in. and secure one row to the next with pins. Backfill with crushed rock, except for the top, where you should install a 6-in. cap of native soil to help keep surface water from entering the rock-filled trench. Use concrete adhesive to secure the cap blocks.

Every manufacturer and consultant we contacted stressed the absolute necessity of starting with a solid, level and well-compacted base. Failure to do this will result in a weak, wavy wall. Bear in mind: If your wall is higher than 4 ft., most concrete block manufacturers require extra engineering and installation steps not shown here. These steps range from using special reinforcement fabric to installing a series of terraces rather than one tall wall. Most manufacturers provide good printed installation guidelines. If you purchase your concrete retaining wall blocks from a specialty landscape center, there may be an onsite designer or engineer to help you.

• Before getting started, contact local utility companies to mark the location of underground wires and pipes. Telephone and cable TV wires are often buried just beneath the surface.
• In the Midwest, the compactable base material is often referred to as Class V (as in the Roman numeral for five). In other regions, the rock may vary and the material may go by a different name. The important quality of the material is its different-sized rock and sand particles that interlock and compact to create a solid base. It’s the same material used beneath road beds and paver patios. Make sure you use the right stuff. It’s NOT the same as the crushed gravel you use for backfill.
• The 16-in. wide x 12-in. deep x 6-in. high blocks we installed weigh 80 lbs. each. A brick tong doesn’t make them lighter, but it does make them less clumsy to handle, easier to position and less likely to crush fingers.
• If your wall borders a sidewalk or deck, you may need a code compliant rail. Contact your local building code department.

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If your concrete garage floor is suffering from pits, craters or cracks, you can cover up those scars with just a few basic concrete skills. Here is your guide to seal cracks in concrete garage floor. Concrete resurfacer is a cement-based coating that forms a smooth, new surface right over the old concrete. The cost of a resurfacer for a two-car garage is typically less than $200. You’ll also need to buy or rent some special tools, so expect your total cost to be about $300.

Cleaning the garage and resurfacing the floor usually takes one day (on the other hand, clearing out your garage so you can work may take weeks!). Spreading the resurfacer smoothly is the trickiest part of the project, so it helps to have some experience with concrete or drywall finishing. Cool weather, with temps in the 60s, also helps. Warmer weather makes resurfacer harden faster, reducing the time you have to finish the surface.

As a first-timer, you might achieve a perfectly smooth, flat finish on your garage floor. Or you might end up with a few rough spots and small ridges. But even if your work is far from flawless, youll still make a bad floor look much better. And remember this: If you make some major mistakes, you can add a second coatthis time with the benefit of experience.

Materials needed

• Resurfacer:We used Quikrete Concrete Resurfacer (about $20 for 40 lbs.). Similar products, such as Sakrete Flo-Coat, are available. Buy enough to resurface the whole floor. To estimate the amount you need, check the label and then buy two or three extra containers. Better to return some than to run out before the jobs done.
• Plastic sheeting:Protect walls with a band at least 3 ft. high. We used 6-mil plastic, but lighter stuff will work too.
• Brush and push broom:A stiff brush designed for stripping decks and mounted on a handle (shown) will keep you off your knees ($10). So will a push broom; get a push broom with the stiffest bristles you can find.
• Squeegee:Get a beefy version designed for floors, not a lightweight window-cleaning tool.
• Mixing equipment:A powerful 1/2-in. drill and a mixing attachment are the only way to go. Mixing by hand is too slow.
• Protective gear:Rubber boots and gloves protect your skin against the degreaser and resurfacer (which can burn skin). Youll also need eye and hearing protection.Youll need a pressure washer, concrete cleaner (likeQuikrete Concrete & Stucco Wash No. 8601-15), a brush, push broom and a floor squeegee. Buy enough concrete resurfacer material (such as Quikrete Concrete Resurfacer; 40-lb. bags) to coat the entire floor. Refer to the coverage specs on the bag to determine how many bags you need.

Everything youll need for this project is available at home centers.

Clean the slab and fill deep holes and cracks

Scrub with a concrete degreaser and a stiff brush, then follow up with a pressure washer. Rinse twice to remove all residue.

The post How To Fix a Pitted Concrete Floor in Your Garage appeared first on Family Handyman.

You can’t scrub oil and grease stains away. The trick is to draw them up out of the concrete with trisodium phosphate (or a TSP substitute), water and an absorbent material.

Patience is the key. Old, long-neglected stains may require two or three applications for complete removal. And even then, some stains might still show, or the freshly cleaned area might look slightly different from the surrounding concrete.

Mix Up an Absorbent Solution

• Pour 1 ounce of trisodium phosphate (or TSP substitute) and a cup of water into a small bucket and mix.
• Add about a cup of absorbent material and mix to make a creamy paste.
  • Pro tip: Wear eye protection and rubber gloves.

The post How to Remove Paint from Concrete and Other Stains appeared first on Family Handyman.

What Is the Recipe for Concrete?

Most people say cement and concrete interchangeably. But theyre not the same thing. Cement is just one of the ingredients in concrete, and if you ask for cement at the lumberyard, you might get a bag of actual Portland cement.

Aside from cement, concrete contains sand and stones. Those stones, or aggregate, are a carefully measured mix of various sizes. Small stones fill in the gaps between larger ones, and sand fills in between them. Cement is the glue that holds it all together.

The post The Science Behind Concrete and Why it Matters for Pros appeared first on Family Handyman.

About Concrete Patios

Durable, attractive, long-lasting and easy to keep clean these are the advantages of a concrete patio. Unlike paving bricks or patio slabs, a poured concrete patio greatly reduces gaps and cracks that can lead to weed growth and ant infestations.

It’s a big job to pour a patio properly and you don’t want to skimp on quality. Follow these guidelines and your concrete patio will give you years of enjoyment.

How Much Will You Save?

You’ll save 40 percent to 50 percent by pouring your patio yourself. (Taking the DIY route also means you can be sure the technical details are done correctly.) You’ll save even more if you mix your own concrete instead of having a ready-mix truck deliver it.

What to Consider

Size, situation, time and budget are the main things to consider when planning a concrete patio. More specifically, think of these items as you plan:

Is the area level? You may need to add compacted fill to the area to level out a sloped site for a patio.

Will you excavate by hand with a shovel, rent a small excavator or hire a pro to do the digging? Although your patio will sit on top of the ground, you should remove sod and top soil before building forms and pouring concrete. The size of your planned patio, the texture of the soil and your level of physical fitness determine whether you do this digging by hand or not.

How thick will your patio slab be? Four inches is the minimum thickness for a concrete patio. You’ll want to make it six to eight inches thick if the patio will support a structure such as a gazebo or hot tub.

Tools

• Shovel
• Wheelbarrow
• Hand saw
• 48-inch level or laser level
• Hammer
• Drill driver
• Trowel
• Broom

Materials

• 2×6 or 2×8 lumber for forms
• 1-1/2-in. x 1-1/2-in. x 18-in. wooden stakes (one for every 36-in. of form length plus one for each corner)
• #10 x 3-1/2-in. deck screws for form assembly
• Bagged concrete mix or Portland cement and sand to hand-mix, or ready-mixed concrete by truck
• Crushed stone
• Concrete reinforcing fibers
• Spray paint
• String and stakes

Equipment

• Portable cement mixer (unless you’re ordering ready-mixed concrete)
• Masonry cut-off saw

The Process

There are several main steps to pouring a concrete patio, including marking and excavating, assembling and leveling forms, mixing and pouring concrete, finishing the concrete and more. Here’s the process in more detail:

Mark your work area: Use spray paint or strings and stakes to mark out your patio. Make this area 18 inches longer and wider than the finished size of the patio you want. You’ll need this room for the forms and the space required for working around them.

Excavate the area: Use a shovel or rented mini-excavator to dig up the sod and top soil in the area of your patio. Aim to go down six to eight inches below the current soil level.

Assemble forms: Join 2×6 or 2×8 lumber to form the outer shape of your patio. Use #10 x 3-1/2-in. deck screws to join the corners, three screws per corner.

Square the form: If opposite sides of your form area are the same length (and they should be), then equalizing diagonal measurements taken corner to corner automatically makes the corners square. Pound one stake into the ground at each corner to hold the form square after it has been adjusted.

Straighten the form: You can never trust lumber to be straight. That’s why you must use strings along the sides of the form as a straight reference line. Place stakes every 36 inches along the outside face of the form to hold the edges of the form straight.

Level the form: Determine the highest corner you want for your patio, raise the top of the form to that level, and then drive a deck screw through the stake and into the form to lock it in position. This is your starting reference point. Use a 48-in. level or a laser level to raise the entire perimeter of the form to a level height, then drive a single deck screw through the stake and into the wood form. Double-check that the entire top edge of all form boards are level with each other.

Saw the stakes: When it comes time to level your concrete you’ll be drawing a long, straight piece of wood across the top edges of the form as you’re finishing the concrete. This is called “screeding” and it’s why you need to saw the stakes flush with the top edges of the form. Do this step now using a handsaw.

Add crushed stone: Shovel in and level crushed stone to make the bottom of the excavation more uniform and to create a space for water drainage. Rake the crushed stone so it’s a consistent depth down from the top edge of the form boards. This depth determines the thickness of concrete of your completed patio.

Add reinforcement: Concrete should be reinforced to minimize patio cracking. Some people use reinforcing steel mesh, but 1/2-in. rebar on a 12-in. x 16-in. grid does a better job. Place the mesh or rebar on the bottom of the form, then lift it up during the pour so the reinforcement is two inches off the bottom.

Formula for determining concrete quantity: (Thickness x width and length of patio in feet) divided by 27 = Concrete volume required in cubic yards.

Pour and finish the concrete: If your patio is tiny you can buy bags of just-add-water concrete mix. Add this to a portable drum-type concrete mixer with a quantity of water to create a uniform blend that’s the consistency of stiff cake batter.

You can save money on large patios by buying Portland cement, sand and crushed stone separately, then mixing all these components yourself in the mixer at a ratio of one part cement, two parts sand and two parts crushed stone.

Ordering ready-mixed concrete delivered by truck is the most costly option, but it makes sense for patios that require more than one cubic yard of concrete. Concrete reinforcing fibers will make your patio more durable and crack resistant. You can buy reinforcing fibers to add to site-mixed concrete, or you can ask for fibers to be added to ready-mixed concrete. I never pour concrete without using this fiber in addition to reinforcing rod.

Fill the forms with concrete, then use a straight piece of wood drawn across the top edges of the form to smooth and level the concrete. Leave the concrete alone until the surface water dries but the concrete itself is still soft, then immediately continue smoothing the surface with a trowel. A special trowel for edges lets you make the concrete look like the edges of a sidewalk.

If you want a rough, high-friction surface, use a broom to texture the concrete before letting it harden. Keep the surface damp with periodic use of a garden hose or wet sheets and blankets.

Remove forms: Let the concrete cure for three days, then remove the deck screws, pull the stakes, remove the lumber than scrape and clean off the concrete residue from the wood, if you want to reuse it. Back fill around the patio with top soil to fill in the space left by the removal of the forms.

Make crack control cuts: Even with reinforcing rods or mesh in place, concrete slabs tend to crack over time. Crack control cuts direct this cracking along a single line, so the results look better. Let the concrete cure for two weeks, then rent a masonry cut-off saw and create cuts 1-1/2-in. to two inches down in a grid of about 10 feet x 10 feet.

Things I Wish I Would Have Known Before Pouring My Concrete Patio

• It’s easy to mix concrete so it’s too wet;
• Concrete cures much quicker during hot weather too quick sometimes;
• Concrete slabs crack unless you go all out to prevent and control those cracks;
• If something is worth pouring, it’s worth using reinforcing fibers in the concrete.

The post Pouring Concrete Patio: A First Timer’s Guide appeared first on Family Handyman.

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Getting Started on Building an In-Ground Fire Pit:

Advice From a Masonry Pro:

Doug Montzka, of Montkza Concrete & Masonry in St. Paul, Minn., has been in the concrete and masonry business for 23 years. He’s seen the popularity of fire pits but it’s possible to create a DIY fire pit. I started getting requests for brick fire pits a few years ago. It isnt rocket science, but there are a few tricks to doing the job right. A well-built masonry fire pit is rock solid, safe to use, and will easily last for as long as you own your house.”

Set Aside a Few Days

This won’t be the kind of project you can complete in an afternoon. There are a few time-consuming steps that will spread this project out over a few days. First, youll have to pour the footing and give it the time to set up. Then youll have to mortar the bricks into place.

Before Digging, Call Utility Companies

Before digging out the space for your in-ground fire pit, call your utility companies (dial 811; for more info, go to call811.com) to check the location of buried utility lines.

Also, check the fire pit code in your area. Most require a fire pit to be 25 ft. away from any structures and overhanging trees. Think about how the prevailing winds blow through your backyard.

Mark Out the Fire Pit

The first step to making your own fire pit is to dig out a dedicated space in your yard for the fire pit base. The following are the fire pit dimensions we used for this project.

• A 3-ft.-diameter in-ground fire pit creates enough room for a good fire, yet keeps everyone close enough to chat (and complies with most codes).
  • Pro tip: To make measuring the pit and pouring the concrete footing easy, we used two cardboard concrete form tubes (purchased from a concrete supply company).
• You could also make your own forms by screwing together 1/8-in. hardboard. For a non-traditional fire, opt for a smokeless fire pit.
• Rip a 4 x 8-ft. sheet into four 8-in.-wide strips.
• Carefully bend and screw two strips together to create a 36-in.-diameter circle, and use the other two to make a 48-in.-diameter circle.
• Set the larger form in position and spray paint around it. Dig a hole about 8 in. deep and 3 in. larger in diameter than the form.

The post How to Build a Brick Fire Pit appeared first on Family Handyman.

This patio design is not only stylish but also perfect for someone with limited concrete experience. Its much more forgiving than a big, continuous slab. On a large slab, a mistake in the form or in finishing can lead to depressions and water puddles. And inadequate base prep can lead to cracking. This segmented design makes those problems much less likely. To complete the look, you add decorative rock between the pavers. Are you ready to take it on? If you have help, you can pour this patio in a weekend!

Prep the Site

• Remove any existing sod, giving yourself a little extra room around the edges to make it easier to place the form and screed the concrete.
• Scrape, rake and shovel the patio area to make it as level as possible. Depending on the grade and the finished height of your patio, you may need to add some sand fill.
• Lay out the patios footprint with stakes and string. Make sure all the math works out and that the footprint is square.

The post How to Build and Pour Your Own Concrete Patio appeared first on Family Handyman.

When it comes to mold in your home, the faster you act, the better. Whether it’s small spots of mold on shower tiles or larger outbreaks caused by hidden leaks or poor ventilation, removing mold quickly is crucial for maintaining a healthy living environment. Mold can trigger allergic reactions, worsen asthma and damage your homes surfaces if left untreated.

There are a variety of cleaning products available, but choosing the right one can be overwhelming. You want a cleaner that not only eliminates mold effectively but also helps prevent it from coming back. With so many options on the market, its important to pick the best solution for your needs. In this guide, weve rounded up our top picks for the best mold cleaners in 2024, so you can take care of your home safely and efficiently.a

The Best Mold and Mildew Eliminators

Mold and mildew can grow in many different places, and figuring out the best product to use on surfaces like wood, fabric or concrete can be confusing. When choosing a mold eliminator, look for a product that is safe for the material type in need of cleaning.

The post 8 Best Mold and Mildew Removers of 2024 appeared first on Family Handyman.

via Amazon

$24.99 at Amazon

DeWalt Right-Angle Flex Shaft

$24.99 at Amazon

Sometimes, even the best right-angle drill attachment won’t fit into the tiny nooks and crannies in your project. This DeWalt Right-Angle Flex Shaft attachment has a 12-inch flexible shaft that can bend to fit nearly anywhere. This can also be useful for projects around the house where you might find yourself working with stuck screws in small spaces.

The post The Best Right Angle Drill Attachments appeared first on Family Handyman.

Peeling epoxy

Too much moisture causes epoxy paint to crack and pop off.

Photo 1: Prepare a test area

Remove 1/32 in. of the top layer of concrete with an angle grinder and a masonry wheel. Let the area breathe for 24 hours before starting the test.

Photo 2: Set up the test

Test for moisture with a calcium chloride dish covered by a plastic dome. When the test is done, cut a hole in the dome and lift the dish straight out so you don’t spill the contents. Seal the dish and mail it back to the manufacturer for results.

When epoxy paint on garage floors peels up prematurely, the problem is most likely caused by too much slab moisture. Unfortunately, the widely used plastic sheeting test (taping a sheet of plastic film to the concrete and checking for condensation droplets after 24 hours) isn’t reliable. A better method is to use calcium chloridebased testing kits (about $40 for the three kits you’ll need).

For the most accurate results, conduct the test during the spring when the soil is damp and low humidity is forecast. Dry air draws moisture up through the concrete, so you’ll be getting worst case results that time of year. Place two of the test kits at least 5 ft. away from walls, and the third test kit in the middle of the floor. Follow the surface preparation instructions to the letter. That means you’ll have to grind off about 1/32 in. of concrete to remove any surface sealers or hardening agents (Photo 1). Once you’ve ground off the top layer, use the pH test liquid and strips included in the kit to determine the acidity (pH) level of the freshly exposed concrete. The pH level should be 6.5 to 7. If yours isn’t, check with the paint manufacturer to see if its paint will stick.

If the pH level checks out, leave the test sections open to the garage air for 24 hours before starting the test. Place the calcium chloride dish in the test areas and apply the sealing dome (Photo 2). After the chemical absorbs moisture for 60 to 72 hours, cut openings in the domes and remove and seal the dishes. Then mail them off to the testing lab for analysis (included in the kit price).

The maximum amount of water vapor penetration is 3 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. If your results show more than that amount, don’t even consider applying epoxy or any other paint-type coating to your floor. Instead, live with your old boring concrete or consider a snap-together tile floor.

However, if your tests hover around the 3-lb. mark, your results are borderline. Consider calling in a professional testing lab to conduct a more rigid (and accurate) test. Find one online or in the yellow pages under Testing Laboratories.

For moisture tests, search online for calcium chloride moisture tests.

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration. [project-tools]

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. [project-materials]

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It’s normal for asphalt driveways to sink a bit over time. But when your driveway repair has sunk to the point where it’s 4 or 5 in. lower than your garage floor, it’s time to fix it. If you don’t, water will pool in the depression, seep into the soil below, and eventually destroy the driveway.

Asphalt companies charge about $1,000 to dig out the old portion and install a new apron. Concrete contractors charge even more. But you can rebuild your asphalt driveway apron yourself. The entire job takes a full day and it’s not much fun. However, the materials and tools only cost about $250, so the savings are worth it. Learn how to pour a concrete apron.

You’ll need a diamond blade for your circular saw, a tamper, a pry bar and a short square-blade shovel. Plus, you’ll need enough cold patch material to fill in the trench you make (sold at home centers). To figure out how many bags you’ll need, refer to the depth and width tables on the bag. Finally, you’ll need mineral spirits and rags for cleanup.

Cold patch cures by solvent evaporation, and it takes about 30 days to reach a full cure. The best time to do the project is during an extended warm, dry spell. You can do it in spring or fall, but cold weather and rain will greatly extend the cure time.

This driveway repair is a messy job, and no matter how careful you are, you’re going to get tar on your clothes and shoes. You can’t wash off the tar with soap and water. So wear old clothes and shoes that you can toss into the trash when you’re done. If you have to go into the house during the project, leave your shoes outside so you don’t track tar into the house.

The post How To Fix a Sinking Driveway appeared first on Family Handyman.

How to Pour a Concrete Apron For a Garage

Its a story thats all too familiar: A hole gets dug, a foundation gets built and there’s a hasty backfill before the asphalt driveway gets installed. Eventually, the asphalt settles, the apron collapses and the new homeowner gets angry (and rightly so). Thats when Glenn Anderson and his crew at Above Quality Inc. show up to rip out the droopy asphalt and install a concrete apron that will last for years.

Glenn has installed scores of aprons in his career. There were 32 on his most recent townhouse project alone. He knows that the best way to keep customers happy and steer clear of callbacks is to reduce movement and avoid cracking. Well show you how he gets it done.

The post How To Pour a Perfect Concrete Apron appeared first on Family Handyman.

Concrete countertops are made with a mortar mix, usually consisting of one part cement and three parts sand. However, there are variables in both prepackaged mixes and mixes made from scratch by pros. Ingredients such as accelerators, superplasticizers, pigments and decorative aggregates will affect both the performance and final look of a concrete countertop.

Whatever mix is used, the countertop must be polished after it’s been installed and has had time to cure. The grinding and polishing process removes the rough finish and adds an attractive sheen. Concrete is porous, so the countertops must also be sealed with a food-safe sealer.

If you’re leaning towards concrete for your own kitchen countertop material, here are a few concrete countertop pros and cons to consider.

Concrete Countertop Pros

Durability

There’s no doubt concrete is rock solid and extremely durable; it can easily handle the wear and tear of everyday use in the kitchen or bathroom. In fact, concrete countertops will last you a lifetime if properly sealed and maintained. And unlike some other materials, it’s heat-resistant, “Concrete is pretty tough. Once sealed, it handles heat well, so you can put a hot pan right on it without worrying,” says Coates.

Customization

Concrete countertops are extremely customizable. “The shapes and forms you can build are virtually limitless, and they can be built in a shop or cast in place, which is a huge plus,” says Coates. “You can shape them to fit any kitchen layout and choose different colors, textures, or finishes.” You can also customize the edge profile and sheen to fit your taste. Other special finishes include marbling and veining, dish-draining ridges, and decorative add-ins, such as stones, colored glass or metal shavings.

Style

Of course, the main reason you might choose concrete countertops is because you like the look. “They’ve got that cool, industrial vibe, which is great if you’re going for a modern or minimalistic look,” says Coates. Pair concrete countertops with other rustic finishes like wood grain shelving and stainless steel accents. Or, with the color choices, you can use concrete to mimic other more expensive countertops like soapstone and marble.

Eco-Friendly

Concrete countertops are eco-friendly because of their lifetime longevity, which reduces waste. Concrete also requires less energy during production. Other man-made materials, like quartz or porcelain, rely on large machinery to add heat and pressure for bonding, while concrete cures and hardens on its own. To decrease your carbon footprint even more, Coates recommends using locally sourced materials and incorporating recycled mix-ins like glass.

Concrete Countertop Cons

Maintenance

Although durable, concrete countertops do require consistent upkeep. You’ll need to regularly reapply sealer and wax to protect the surface of your counters and avoid stains. Spills and messes should be cleaned up right away.

“You need to reseal it every one to three years with food-grade wax (think beeswax) to keep it from absorbing stains or bacteria,” says Coates. “I recommend using a mild, pH-neutral cleaner for day-to-day cleaning. Avoid harsh, acidic cleaners because they can wear down the sealer.”

Price

Concrete countertops are handcrafted, which requires a lot of labor, so they are not cheap. According to The Concrete Network, the average cost per square foot is $65 to $135. (For comparison, marble countertops cost about $110 to $250 per square foot.)

Because concrete is so customizable, many factors can affect the price. “Adding things like custom shapes, built-in sinks, or unique finishes can bump the price up,” says Coates. “Installation is also a big factor. It’s pretty labor-intensive to pour and finish concrete properly, so paying a pro to do it right can drive the cost higher.”

Hairline Cracking

Concrete is structurally sound, so if installed properly, you won’t encounter any big cracks, but hairline cracks are possible. Slight discoloration and tiny chips also naturally occur and add to the patina of your countertops as they age. For some, imperfections are part of the appeal and charm of concrete countertops. However, it’s something to keep in mind if you want countertops that always look new.

Time

Concrete countertops might not be the best choice if you’re short on time. To design, cast and cure, you should plan for a turnaround time of at least a few weeks. Curing itself can take from three to seven days. And keep in mind that the more humid the climate where you live, the longer the cure time.

Are Concrete Countertops Right for Me?

Overall, concrete countertops are a good choice for those who prioritize customization and don’t mind some natural patina as the material ages. Keep price in mind, though, because custom finishes and professional installation can drive the cost up substantially. Concrete is an excellent option for an experienced DIYer. Forming and installing the countertops yourself will eliminate labor costs, but it’s not a project for beginners. DIY concrete countertops require skill, special tools, and lots of time.

About the Expert

Matthew Coates is a Seattle architect and president of Coates Design. Coates has used concrete countertops in several of his designs over the years, and personally installed DIY concrete countertops in two of his own homes. With more than 20 years of experience, he is recognized for his innovative and forward-thinking approach to high-performance architecture and sustainable design.

Sources

Concrete Countertop Mix, Concrete Network, 2020

The post Take a Look: Concrete Countertops Pros and Cons appeared first on Family Handyman.

Finishing concrete

Close-up: Darby

A darby flattens the wet concrete.

Close up: Edging tool

An edging tool gives the concrete a round edge.

Close-up: Groover

A groover makes joints in the concrete to control cracking.

Close-up: Magnesium concrete hand float

A float compacts the concrete surface, giving it a smooth look.Putting a smooth, durable finish on concrete is a skill you can only master with the proper set of tools and practice. Well show you the tools and how to use them for each step of the concrete finishing process. And equally important, well help you determine when the concrete is ready for the next finishing step.

But you really cant practice these techniques except on real concrete. So its smart to start with a small project like this garbage can pad. When you get the hang of it, you can move up to a larger slab. But keep in mind that finishing larger slabs (more than about 100 sq. ft.) is trickier because the concrete may set up too fast.

In this article, well show you how to level the concrete in the forms, round over the edges and make a progressively smoother finish. But we wont show how to build forms or fill them with concrete.

Each step in the process requires a different tool. You can make the screed (Photo 1) and darby (Photo 2) from scraps of wood. The rest youll have to rent or buy. Youll need a magnesium float ($15 to $25), an edger ($5 to $20), a grooving tool ($10 to $30) and a steel trowel ($8 to $40). Pros buy expensive top-quality tools that will stand up to the rigors of daily use, but less expensive versions are available at home centers and hardware stores and will work fine for occasional home use.

Concrete is a blend of Portland cement, sand, aggregate (gravel) and water that harden when mixed. While there are additives that can slow down or speed up the process, and special bagged mixes that set fast, in general, the speed of the process largely depends on the temperature and humidity.

Hot, dry weather accelerates the hardening process, sometimes so much that its nearly impossible to complete all the finishing steps in time. Work while your project is in shade if possible. On cool days, you may spend a lot of time waiting for the concrete to reach the next stage. Thats why we cant give you exact waiting times. But well show you how to tell when the concrete is ready for each finishing step.

Video: How to Pour a Concrete Slab

Screed and darby the concrete right away

Screed the concrete

Push or pull the screed board across the forms with a back-and-forth sawing motion. Shove concrete into low spots in front of the screed board. Repeat to remove excess concrete.

Form and Pour a Concrete Slab

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Types of Flower Bed Edging

There are many kinds of edging availableplastic, wood, metal and concrete. Many people like concrete because it never needs to be replaced. If you’re thinking of installing concrete flower bed edging, you have two options. You can pour the edging, which requires trenching, making a form, staking it in place, then pouring and smoothing concrete. This looks great and you can make the edging any width you want. But, it is a lot of work.

Here are the best ways to prevent weeds on flower beds.

An easier and less-expensive alternative is to use precast concrete edging stones, available in a range of styles and sizes. You can get these concrete edgers at a big box store, sometimes for less than a dollar apiece. There are often several colors to choose from, primarily gray and tan, sometimes brick red. Don’t have a truck? Some big box stores will rent one to you.

These are our best tips for a low-maintenance flower bed.

Popular Concrete Flower Bed Edging

One of the most common precast concrete edgers sold is the scalloped edger, which is available in straight or curved designs. Frankly, the design is somewhat dated looking, but you can rectify that by installing the edging upside down so the scalloped portion is below ground. There are other styles as well, including interlocking blocks and faux brick.

How to Install Concrete Flower Bed Edging

Precast concrete flower bed edging stones are easy to install. Lay out the shape of the bed with a rope or garden hose, then use a flat-blade spade to make a trench. Cut into the ground along one side, then face the opposite direction and slice along the other side. Learn how to dig a trench for flower bed edging. Excavate the soil, line the trench with an inch of sand, then install the edging stones one by one. Make sure they’re level, tamping down with a rubber mallet if needed, then backfill.

Lights enhance the look of flower beds. These are some of our favorites.

These are three gardening tools every homeowner needs.

The post How to Install Concrete Flower Bed Edging appeared first on Family Handyman.

How to Pour a Concrete Slab: The Basics

The bulk of the work for a new slab is in the excavation and form building. If you have to level a sloped site or bring in a lot of fill, hire an excavator for a day to help prepare the site. Then figure on spending a day building the forms and another pouring the slab.

The post How to Pour a Concrete Slab Successfully: 31 Tips appeared first on Family Handyman.

The layout of your deck sleepers will depend on the layout of your decking. If you want a standard decking design all the deck boards running one direction all you need are rows of parallel sleepers. If you want a more complicated decking pattern, like the one in this project, you’ll need doubled sleepers to support any boards that run perpendicular to the others. We also installed sleepers to support the steps we later added to the concrete stoop.

For a standard decking design:

• From the top center of the deck, use a pencil and tape measure to mark the layout of the first sleeper on the concrete. Start a 1/2 inch from the house’s foundation or concrete edge.
• Continue measuring and marking from the first sleeper. Use standard joist spacing of 16 inches on center (o.c.) until reaching the end of the patio.
• Repeat this process on the left and right sides of the patio, 1 foot from the patio edge.
• Next, measure and mark 1-1/2 inches to the right of the 16 o.c. marks.
• Use a level or straightedge to draw a line connecting these three new parallel marks.
• Each sleeper edge will be positioned next to these lines.

The post How To Build a Deck Over a Concrete Patio appeared first on Family Handyman.

Concrete pavers can be a low-cost, DIY way to transform your tired, dull concrete patio into an attractive outdoor living space. If your concrete patio is in good condition, skip the backbreaking (and costly!) step of removing it and simply install pavers directly over it. Laying pavers over a concrete patio is much easier than pouring new concrete or laying paving stones the traditional way. It requires less skill and less time, and is a whole lot easier on your back.

This technique requires two types of pavers. Glue thicker pavers to the concrete on the perimeter and lay thinner pavers on a sand bed on the interior space. The resulting look is one of our favorite patio ideas. Here we’ll walk you through how to lay paving stones over concrete with help from two industry pros – Ricky Latterreur from Latterreur Landscapes and Gardens and Paul Ricalde from Paul’s Toolbox.

What Are Concrete Pavers?

Concrete pavers are modular bricks made of concrete that are used to pave driveways, patios and walkways. Available in a wide variety of colors, sizes and styles, you can get creative with the design and layout of most paver projects. They are also easy to handle and require simple installation tools and materials, making pavers a great choice for DIY enthusiasts.

Interlocking pavers offer a more uniform look and have built-in spacers for exact joint spacing. Slab pavers have a more natural, varied look that resembles stone and can have varying joint widths.

Will It Work on Your Patio?

This project will work with most patios. Surface damage like flaking, chips and craters is no problem. “If the concrete is level, without erosion or large cracks it’s a good candidate,” Ricalde says. But a few conditions make this method a no-go:

• A too-low threshold: Door thresholds have to be high enough above the existing patio to allow for the thickness of the border pavers, plus an extra 3/4 inch to allow for “frost heave”rising of the slab when the soil freezes.
• Expanding cracks: This method will work over most cracks which grow and shrink with seasonal ground movement. But if you have a crack that has noticeably grown in recent years, this method is risky. The crack may eventually “telegraph” through the pavers, creating a hump or gaps.

Pros and Cons of Putting Pavers Over Concrete

Carefully consider these pros and cons before deciding if this project is for you.

Pros

• Installing pavers over a concrete patio saves time, money and labor.
• A standard paver patio rests on a thick base of compacted gravel. This patio cover-up will save you the cost of that gravel. More importantly, it eliminates the backbreaking drudgery of breaking up concrete, digging up soil, hauling it all away and hauling in gravel. On this 12 x 14-ft. patio, a patio tear-out and new gravel base would have meant more than 12 extra tons of wheelbarrow work.

Cons

• Putting pavers over concrete increases the patio height, which can conflict with connecting pathways, stairs or door clearances. “Make sure the paver’s height is not going to impede with a door entry, window wells or steps,” Ricalde says.
• For this project, design options are somewhat limited, as you need to choose border and field pavers of certain thicknesses.

Safety Precautions (if any)

Follow safety protocols when using power tools. Wear eye protection, a dust mask and leather gloves when cutting pavers and operating the plate compactor.

When to Call a Pro

If your concrete patio has large cracks or sinking panels, consult with a pro. Removal of the existing concrete may be necessary.

Before You Begin

The primary tools for this project will be used to cut pavers to size. There are a few options to choose from that will get the job done. Ricalde likes to use a tile saw with a larger diamond blade to cut through thicker paver dimensions. You can also use a 4-in. angle grinder with a diamond wheel or rent a concrete saw.

Rent a plate compactor to tamp down the installed pavers. Most home centers and tool rental businesses will have this tool available.

Regarding materials, this technique requires two types of pavers. The pavers used for the border must be at least 3/4 inch thicker than the field pavers, which cover the area between the borders. That thickness difference will allow for a bed of sand under the field. A more than 3/4 inch difference is fine; you’ll just need a little more sand.

To estimate how much sand you’ll need, determine the square footage of the sand bed. Divide that number by 12 for a 1-in. bed or 18 for a 3/4-in. bed.

As for the screed pipe, a 10-ft. section of black or galvanized steel plumbing pipe works best. For a 1-in. bed, use 3/4-in. pipe; for a 3/4-in. bed, use 1/2-in. pipe.

Remember that each pipe size is listed by its inner diameter, but the outer diameter is what matters here: 3/4-in. pipe has an outer diameter of about 1-1/8 in.; 1/2-in. pipe, about 5/8 in. In both cases, you’ll get an extra 1/8 in. of sand bed thickness and the field pavers will stand about 1/8 inch above the border pavers.

Then, when you tamp the field with a plate compactor, the sand will compact, and the field pavers will settle flush with the border.

Scrub the perimeter

Clean the edges of the patio where you’ll later glue down the border pavers. Clean concrete means a stronger glue bond.

• Scrub the border area with a concrete cleaner. Any stiff brush will do, but a deck stripping brush on a broom handle makes it easier.
• Hose down the patio when you’re done scrubbing the border.
• Rinse thoroughly and let dry.

The post How to Install Pavers Over a Concrete Patio appeared first on Family Handyman.

Brick Walkway Overview

You don’t need heavy equipment and a week of work to lay an attractive and durable walkway. We designed this path, one of our favorite garden path ideas, with bricks for simplicity and ease of construction. It’s made from old street pavers and granite cobbles set on a sand bed. But you can substitute just about any pavers or types of stones that are readily available and fit your landscape. The stone-setting techniques will even accommodate stones of varying thicknesses. You can build this path in about two weekends using a shovel, a wheelbarrow and a few inexpensive hand tools.

We’ll walk you through all the path-building details, from breaking ground to breaking the cobbles to fit tight spots. Usually, the main stumbling block is making the path smooth and flat. To solve that problem, we’ll show you a simple leveling technique using ordinary plastic landscape edging. With this technique, you can lay a top-notch path, even if you’re a novice.

Garden Path and Bench

We integrated a seating area into our pathway. Also, keep in mind that we designed this path for foot traffic and other light use. Don’t try to drive on it. Because the path is set only on sand, it won’t stay as flat and smooth as a traditional paver walk set on a compacted gravel bed. It’s ideal for narrower secondary walks in a garden or backyard, where slight imperfections and undulations add to its character. And if an edge stone gets loose from a wheelbarrow bouncing over it, you can reset it in minutes. Expect to pull an occasional weed growing up in the joints. Or if you prefer an English cottage look, encourage moss or other ground covers to grow in the joints.

The post How to Build a Brick Walkway in the Garden appeared first on Family Handyman.

How to Order Concrete

Working with concrete is messy, hard work. Before you tackle a concrete pour, it’s best to be as prepared as you possibly can be. Here we’ll explain how to order concrete and estimate the cost of concrete. We’ll use a 10 x 10 ft. slab as an example.

First, check out this video where we show you how to figure out the amount of concrete you need to order for your project:

How to Calculate the Cost of a Concrete Pour

Amount. Calculate the volume of concrete you need in cubic yards. The formula for cubic yards is this: Multiply the length (10 ft.) by the width (10 ft.) by the depth (.35 ft., or 4 in.) and divide it by 27 (the number of cubic feet in a cubic yard). You get 1.3 cu. yds. Then add 10 percent to allow for spillage and slab depth variations to help determine the concrete cost per yard.

Strength. Call a local ready-mix company, tell the supplier what the concrete is for, and ask about the best mix (proportions of cement, gravel and sand). For a shed, the supplier will probably suggest a mix with a capacity of about 4,000 psi (pounds per square inch). If you live in a region with freeze/thaw cycles in winter, ask for 5 percent air entrainment to help the concrete withstand freeze/thaw damage.

How Much Does a Yard of Concrete Cost?

The cost of concrete varies depending on several factors. Cost per cubic yard can range as high as $200 per cubic yard, but concrete slab costs will vary by region and market. Also, there can be fees per load for delivery from a concrete truck for concrete cost. There could be other fees for such things as Saturday concrete truck delivery and small loads. Ask about these fees so you know the total bill before the concrete truck arrives.

How Long Will It Take To Unload Concrete?

Ask about the normal concrete truck unload time (usually 7 to 10 minutes per yard) and if there is a fee for overtime. If the concrete truck can’t reach the site, make sure you have two or three people with wheelbarrows ready to go.

Concrete Forms and Pouring

Before you have your concrete ordered and delivered, learn the best method of how to form and pour a concrete slab. The best thing you can do to make a concrete pour go smoothly is to have your worksite fully prepped. As soon as the concrete is delivered, you’re on the clock. Make sure everything is ready to go before you place your order.

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Cutting kerfs is the most effective way to divide the patio into sections with different colors. Using tape isn’t an option because the stain will bleed underneath it and make a mess. If the concrete already has expansion joints, you can incorporate them into your design to avoid cutting kerfs.

When you cut kerfs, start by snapping a chalk line where you want to cut. The cuts need to be perfectly straight; crooked cuts will be obvious once you apply the stain. So, use a wide board as a saw guide and weigh it down with buckets of water.

Install a diamond masonry blade in a circular saw and set it to a depth of 1/4 inch to do the actual cutting. The cuts don’t need to be deep just enough to separate colors. Have a helper spray a water mist on the blade during the cut to contain the dust.

• Pro tip: Don’t use a cheap abrasive blade you can’t spray it with water, and you’ll end up with dust all over your siding and windows.

You won’t be able to get the saw blade right next to the house, so finish off the kerfs with a masonry chisel and a hammer or a grinder with a diamond blade.

The post Renew Your Concrete Patio: How to Stain Concrete appeared first on Family Handyman.

Wet concrete on skin can cause everything from mild redness to third-degree, permanently disfiguring chemical burns. You and your helpers should take these steps:

• Wear eye protection. Sandy concrete splashes can wreak havoc with your eyes.
• Wear long pants and long sleeves to protect your skin.
• Wear tall rubber boots if you have to wade in wet concrete.
• Wear gloves (rubber gloves are the safest bet).
• If your clothes get saturated with wet cement, remove them, thoroughly rinse your skin and change into clean clothes before going back to work.

Prepare the Site

Contact your local building department to see whether a building permit is required and how close to the lot lines you can build. In most cases, you’ll measure from the lot line to position the slab parallel to it.

Start to prepare the site for concrete by driving four stakes to roughly indicate the corners of the new slab and use a line level and string or builder’s level to see how much the ground slopes. Flattening a sloped site means moving tons of soil. You can build up the low side or dig the high side into the slope and add a low retaining wall to hold back the soil.

• Pro tip:Your concrete slab will last longer, with less cracking and movement, if it’s built on solid, well-drained soil. If you have sandy soil, you’re in luck. Just scrape off the sod and topsoil and add gravel fill if needed. If you have clay or loam soil, you should remove enough to allow a 6- to 8-in. layer of compacted gravel under the new concrete.

If you have to remove more than a few inches of dirt, consider renting a skid steer or hiring an excavator. An excavator can also help you get rid of excess soil.

• Note: Before you do any digging, call 811 or visit call811.com to arrange to have your local utilities locate and mark buried pipes and wires.

The post How to Form and Pour a Concrete Slab appeared first on Family Handyman.

Move over solid mortar bed, and say hello to cement boards. The traditional method of installing ceramic tile called for setting it in a solid mortar bed. Troweling a perfectly flat bed required great skill, but the reward was a tile job that lasted for decades. Today, most professional tile setters back their tile with cement board instead, because it offers almost the same durability with a lot less work. And the best part? Do-it-yourselfers can use it too.

Cement board is a thin layer of mortar sandwiched between sheets of fiberglass mesh cloth. The 1/2-in. thick board is unaffected by water, making it a great substitute for a mortar bed.

In this article, we’ll show you how to create a strong, durable and waterproof tile base around your bathtub using cement board. We chose the tub surround because it’s highly leak-prone, and an ideal spot for cement backer board. Although cement board is heavy and a bit awkward to cut, even a novice should be able to complete a professional-quality tub surround, ready to tile, in a day.

Allow half a day to tear out the old tile and perhaps several more days to let damp wood dry out.

Figure A: Cement Board Installation Details

Add blocking and other framing details before hanging the cement board.

Buying materials

Cement board, technically called cementitious backer unit (CBU), is manufactured under different brand names. The standard size sheet is 3 x 5 ft. and 1/2 in. thick, weighs 45 to 60 lbs. and is available at most full-service lumberyards and building supply centers. The 1/2-in. thick cement board spans studs spaced 16 in. on center. Other sizes, like 3 x 4 ft., 3 x 6 ft. and 4 x 4 ft., are available, but you may have to contact a tile supplier to find them. Our project, tiling the walls around a standard 5-ft. tub to a height of 6 ft., requires four 3 x 5-ft. sheets.

To attach the cement board to the studs, you’ll need special 1-1/4 in. cement board screws (see Fig. B). These screws have a coating to resist corrosion, a special wide head with cutting flutes and hi-low threads for a strong grip. If you can’t find them at a home center, call tile specialty stores. If special screws aren’t available, attach the cement board with 1-1/2 in. hot-dipped galvanized roofing nails.

You’ll also need a roll of 2-in. wide fiberglass mesh cement board tape and a 25-lb. bag of thin-set adhesive, both available at home centers. For the fiberglass mesh tape be sure to use the special, heavier type sold for use with thin-set mortar, as regular drywall mesh tape will rot. The thin-set is a cement-based powder that you mix with water or latex additive to form a thick paste, which is used to seal the seams in the board and can also be used to set the tile.

Finally, you’ll need an 8 x 12-ft. piece of 4-mil plastic sheeting and some straight 2x4s.

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Driveway Sealing Preparation

There are several kinds of driveways for homes, but one of the most popular choices is an asphalt driveway. It can last for almost 30 years, even adding a little curb appeal to your home. But you can’t achieve that long life span unless the driveway was installed properly and you perform regular maintenance, like filling cracks annually and driveway sealing when needed.

Driveway sealing preparation can take a full day (including drying time), and it’s tedious. The driveway sealer application phase is much faster, taking only a few hours per coat for a typical driveway. Most driveway sealer manufacturers recommend two coats with a minimum drying time of eight hours between coats, so this driveway sealing project will fill an entire weekend. Sealing it is also an important step for winterizing your driveway.

The best asphalt driveway sealer materials cost about $100, but you’ll save about $200 in labor over a professional job. A power washer speeds the cleaning process, but you can do the job without it. In addition to a squeegee or application brush, you’ll need a broom, drill, mixing paddle, duct tape, dashing brush and poly sheeting to protect painted surfaces.

Avoid these common driveway sealing mistakes

• Depending on the sealer to fill cracks. It won’t. Fill them properly before applying sealer.
• Failure to clean and prep the driveway before applying the sealer. If you don’t want to spend time cleaning the driveway, you may as well skip the sealer too, because it won’t stick to a dirty driveway.
• Failure to stir properly. Don’t depend on a stir stick. It simply won’t blend the water and solids enough to get a consistent mixture.
• Use of the wrong applicator. Using a brush when the manufacturer specifies a squeegee (or vice versa) will cause premature sealer failure.
• Applying asphalt sealer too often. Too much sealer will flake off. Wait until you begin to see asphalt aggregate before you apply a new coat of sealer.

Buying the Right Materials

Driveway sealer is available in various grades and price ranges. Some bargain products contain almost 50 percent water and have lower coverage rates and a correspondingly shorter guarantee, so they’re not the most cost-effective solution over the long term. Use one of them if you’re trying to spiff up the driveway before selling your home. Premium products, on the other hand, are made with higher quality resins and UV stabilizers and contain filler and elastomeric material, so they last longer and carry a longer guarantee.

Manufacturers also make different formulas for different driveway sealing conditions: one formula for newer driveways in good condition and another formula for older driveways that haven’t been well maintained. The two formulas also vary in their coverage, so read the labels carefully and choose the correct sealer and quantity for your particular driveway. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for the type of applicator to use (brush or squeegee). Using the wrong one can cause premature failure. You’ll also need liquid driveway cleaner/degreaser to remove oil and tree sap. If your driveway has visible oil stains, pick up a bottle of oil spot primer.

Check the Weather Before you Start

You’ll need at least two days of dry weather to seal your asphalt driveway. Temperatures must be above 50 degrees F during application and throughout the night. And, it’s best to avoid scorching-hot sunny days (the sealer may dry too fast). If you ignore the weather forecast, you may see $100 worth of sealer wash away in a heavy rain.

Start with Cleaning and Priming

Use the soap nozzle on your power washer or a garden hose applicator to apply the driveway cleaner. Then scrub the entire driveway with a stiff-bristle push broom.

Even if you think your driveway is clean, trust us, it isn’t. Exhaust gas contains combustion byproducts that deposit a light, sometimes oily film on your driveway. That film, along with dirt and tree sap, must come off if you want the sealer to stick. So clean the driveway first (Photo 1).

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