Mark the layout on the floor

Eliminate wood framing basics mistakes by chalking a full-size map of your walls directly on the floor. First, mark the inside edge of the wall at each corner and snap chalk lines. Mark the location of interior walls as well and snap chalk lines on both sides of interior wall locations to ensure correct plate positions.

Double-check all of your layout lines to ensure the walls are parallel, the corners are at right angles, and the dimensions match the plans. Then, measure and cut a top and bottom plate for each wall as shown. Double-check lengths by setting the plates in their exact position.

The post Fool-Proof Wall Framing Tips for New Construction appeared first on Family Handyman.

VIA MERCHANT

$129.99 at Amazon

The best overall pocket-hole jig is the tried and true Kreg 720Pro. Kreg is a storied brand working since 1989 to perfect its pocket-hole jigs. While Kreg has been patenting jigs since the 90s, the 720Pro was released in 2021, and after 30 years of development and innovation, we feel it is truly the Cadillac of pocket-hole jigs. The 720Pro comes fully stocked, including the upgraded jig, onboard storage for all drills and accessories, a vacuum adaptor for integrated dust collection, and multiple bonus items, including a clamp, docking stations, free project plans, and 160 Kreg pocket-hole screws.

The jig is lighter than expected, with a solid build constructed with a steel frame and impact-resistant polymer. When testing, I took advantage of the unit’s upgrades, including the anti-slip grip, automatic material thickness setting ability, and vacuum attachment, differentiating it from older models. The automatic thickness measurer was helpful in my specific project when switching between one-by-two boards and plywood, saving me time manually switching my depth.

The thickness measurer works in tandem with the anti-slip grip to ensure the wood for your project stays secure so you can drill the best pocket holes every time. This tool allowed me to complete my project more efficiently while ensuring I had no issues with slipping or sloppy joints. The shelves I built with the 720PRO are the most secure, and I’m excited to use this jig for my future projects.

Item Weight: 7.9 lbs. | Item Dimensions: 13.56 x 9.25 x 6.81 inches | Material Thickness Range: 1/2″ to 1 1/2″ | Material Thickness Setting: Automatic Adjustment with Automaxx | Mobility: Bench-top | Dust Collection: 2 Position Dust Blade

The post 6 Best Pocket-Hole Jigs, Tested and Reviewed by a DIYer appeared first on Family Handyman.

Any time you try to pencil a long level line by repositioning that 2-ft., or even 4-ft., level end to end, youll build in an error that magnifies as you extend the line. You can use several tools indoors and out to improve your leveling results. Here, I’ll show you the best techniques and tools for short, medium and long distance leveling.

Combine a Level with a Straight Board

Combining a straight board and a 2-ft. level is a good yet inexpensive way to level shorter distances from 4 to 15 feet. For tasks like laying out deck beam heights (pictured above), set your 2-ft. level on top of a perfectly straight 24 to extend its reach accurately. Two-by-six and 28 lumber is too heavy to hold steady. To make a lot of measurements quickly, strap the level to the 24 with duct tape or an elastic cord.

But it has to be a straight board. I can’t emphasize that enough. Yes, it’s still cheaper than buying a new level, but chances are you won’t be able to get any random 2×4 out of the cheapest pile at the home center. To find the straightest one, sight down the edges. You can always trim a board on a table saw for a straight edge.

If you’re using this method for mounting deck beams, pencil the height of the wall ledger onto each deck post.

Use a Line Level

For jobs where absolute accuracy is less essential, like digging slopes in trenches, use an inexpensive line level. Hook it directly onto a strong string, like nylon masons line. For the level to work properly, use only one line level per string, draw the line very tight, and ensure theres little wind to blow the level around.

Set drainage slopes by measuring from a level string line. Tap in a reference stake and then a series of measuring stakes 6 feet apart along the trench. Check the trench depth for the proper drainage slope by tying off the string line level at each perimeter measuring stake and measuring the depth of that spot in the trench.

Measure off the string line once the level reads true and stabilizes. The line level is true when the bubble settles between the hairlines.

Electronic Water Levels

The simple principle behind a water level is that the water columns inside two open ends of a single tube will be level with each other. Using crude water levels (like a section of garden hose) requires two people. For solo work, we recommend you buy an electronic water level. Its highly accurate, has a 25-foot working radius and allows you to work alone and around corners because it honks when the water in the working tube is level with the reference line back at the unit.

First, calibrate the electronic water level by attaching it plumb and level to a plywood scrap. Fill the tube with water and bleed air out of the line. Calibrate by loosening both tube clamps, turning on the electronic level and raising the working tube to the reference line. The units horn should sound as the water in the working tube touches the reference line. Add red, water-based food coloring for easier viewing when filling the tube with water. Clamp off both tube ends with the clips provided so that water doesnt suddenly spill out.

If you first establish a reference mark at the level and pencil many layout lines around a room (including around corners), you can connect the marks with chalk lines. Measure up (or down) from any line to accurately set acoustical ceiling track, install level wainscoting or add lumber wall blocking for hanging cabinets.

For best results, avoid water leaks from the water level by clipping the end of the working tube when not actually using it for a measurement. Take care not to step on the tube as you move around a room.

If water leaks or air bubbles enter the tubing, you must refill the tube and recalibrate the unit to maintain accuracy.

Laser Levels for Heights and Very Long Distances

Use a rotary laser level for tasks like setting concrete form boards, cutting fence post tops or building retaining walls. The rotary laser shoots a level beam in a continuous circle like a lighthouse. Rotary laser levels are the fastest tools for accurately establishing leveling marks (in direct view of the laser) anywhere on a building site. For big-time savings, rent a self-leveling rotary laser.

Rotary lasers work in tandem with a target laser detector. The lasers continuous beam is too faint to be seen in daylight, so a sensor in the laser detector will chirp when it detects the beam. Mounted on an elevation rod (the kind surveyors use), the laser detector slides up and down the rod until it finds the laser beam to establish the proper elevation.

For the fastest results in setting footing form boards, have one person use the elevation rod to find the laser beam and a second person set the form boards. Prepare a form board for placement by lifting it against a support stake and driving a couple of 3-in. deck screws through the board, ready to set into the stake. Once the laser detector chirps to signal level, drive the screws home.

The post How To Use a Level Over Long Distances appeared first on Family Handyman.

I tend to get frustrated with suction loss from a dirty filter, having to clean my expensive HEPA filters or waiting for my filter replacement to arrive in the mail. With aOneida Dust Deputy, I no longer have frequent issues with suction or restricted airflow. Removing sawdust is as simple as dumping out the trash can! Adding a cyclone separator was an affordable upgrade to my dust collection system, and it saved me money on replacement filters and dust collection bags.

In this review, I’ll show you why I added a Dust Deputy to my workshop, why you should add a cyclone separator to your dust collection system, and the pros and cons of the options available.

What is the Oneida Dust Deputy?

When sawdust enters a cyclone separator, it spins around the funnel until heavy wood chips fall into the collection bin while the fine dust makes its way up to the vacuum filterso the filter works better and longer. The Dust Deputy isn’t a vacuum, and there is no motor. You run a cyclonic dust separator between a tool (like a table saw) and your shop vac. It’s installed between the intake hose and the shop vac or dust collector.

Why add a cyclonic separator to your shop? The biggest reason is that it turns a single-stage dust collector into a two-stage one. With a one-stage system, all the dust and debris runs over the impellers, through the filter and into the collection bag. The impeller gets a lot of wear, and the filter fills up quickly and needs to be cleaned more often.

With a two-stage system, the cyclone separates the dust before it reaches the impeller so only the fine dust goes through the impeller, saving wear on the impeller and filter. The motor lasts longer, too, because the separator filters out larger debris (basically everything except dust particles) so it doesn’t pass through the collector. If you’ve heard that loud “clunk” when a chip hits your expensive impeller, you know that dreaded feeling.

VIA MERCHANT

$119.95 at Amazon

I Tried It

Oneida Air Systems Dust Deputy Deluxe

We tested the new Dust Deputy, and it's now one of our favorite shop tools.

$119.95 at Amazon

Dust Deputy Features

• Patented cyclone separator, which upgrades any make and model wet/dry vacuum into a two-stage dust control system
• Easy to assemble
• Captures and removes up to 99.9% of dust and debris from air before it reaches the vacuum filter
• Neutral vane inlet improves performance by over 20% compared to other cyclones without this feature; this rectangular inlet feature directs the air down into the cyclone and prevents air turbulence at the inlet

How I Tested the Dust Deputy

I have had a Dust Deputy in my shop for over a year, so I’ve been able to use it repeatedly. I can count on it to perform as expected while it extends the life of my dust collector and shop vac. Standard wet/dry vacs rely on small filters that quickly become clogged with dust and debris. Each time you try to clean the filter by tapping or washing it, the fine fiber construction of the filter becomes damaged.

I first used the Dust Deputy to mill lumber, helping control all the sawdust a planer and jointer generate. And don’t even get me started on the table saw!

I also used the Dust Deputy with my shop vac to improve its performance. I eventually upgraded all my filters to HEPA filters, which are more expensive to replace. They are also ultra-delicate. Have you ever sucked up a stray screw with your shop vac? You don’t want that rattling around in your expensive HEPA filter.

Although I still need to clean and replace filters and collection bags occasionally, it’s much less often with the help of the Dust Deputy.

Assembly was straightforward. When putting the components together, don’t use a power drill, as the threads on the inside are plastic and could strip if you use a drill. Attaching the Dust Deputy to the tool and vacuum was simple. The inlet side connects to your tool, and the top hose goes to the shop vac.

There are different types of Dust Deputy cyclone separators. I chose a model under $100 that fit my shop size and needs. A great way to find out which version is best for your shop is to use theproduct selector toolon the Oneida Air Systems website. It will ask what machine you use most for shop cleanup (a shop vac or dust collector) andwhat material you’re collecting (non-abrasive dust like wood and drywall or abrasive dust like sand and gravel). It also asks if you have size constraints, if it needs to fit under a workbench or if there’s plenty of space to go.

Something I learned that wasn’t in the manual is tomake surethe sawdust level in the collection bin stays lower than halfway, or you’ll start to see wood chunks make their way up to the shop vac or dust collector. There must be plenty of room for air to circulate inside the bin.

The lid is pop-on and off, so I learned quickly not to pick it up by the cyclone. While I’d like to carry the Dust Deputy and shop vac together on a cart, I have yet to make one, so my Dust Deputy sits under mymiter saw stationwith the hose clipped in place with theseclamps.

I was pleased to discover that the Dust Deputy is compatible with any make/model machine in my shop. It comes with tapered ports that fit standard 1.5-inch to 2.5-inch hose fittings. It also works with most materials: Wood dust, drywall dust, concrete dust, water, baking flour, grass, pet hairjust to name a few.

I chose the Dust Deputy over making a DIY version because making my own was more fuss than it was worth. The Oneida system comes with a collapse-proof bucket that won’t fold under high vacuum pressure, and the anti-static components significantly reduce the likelihood of static shocks. Clear, see-through plastic components give a real-time view of how much dust the cyclone separates from the air.

Pros

• Captures 99.9% of dust and debris from air
• Prevents metal or other foreign objects from damaging impellor
• Extends life of your machine’s dust filter
• Available in various sizes and configurations
• Anti-static components
• Maintains suction power

Cons

• Lack of portability

FAQ

How do I clean my Oneida filter?

Cleaning the Dust Deputy is as easy as it gets. First, remove the lid from the collection bin, and then dispose of the dust and debris collected in the bin.

What Other Experts and Reviewers Think

“I added the Super Dust Deputy 4/5 to my small studio furniture workshop to save on bag changes and to capture large chips that were getting caught and causing clogs in the main collector. The separation was appealing to help save time dealing with both those issues,” explains Ashley Pieper, woodworker, artist and owner of Shallow Creek Woodcraft.

“Setup and hook up is simple. Emptying the bin is easy and quick,” Ashley explains. “The Dust Deputy takes my collection system to a two stage with better suction at my tools and better air quality in the shop. Overall, it’s a great product that works exactly as advertised, and that is always a plus!” When asked if there were any issues with the Dust Deputy, Ashley said, “This is more of a conditional preference than an issue but a larger collection bin would work better for the amount of milling I do.”

Verified Amazon purchaser, M.W. appreciated the easy installation and has this to say, “Setup is even easier than the instructions indicate. And everything fit perfectly into my old Rigid 5 gal wet/dry vac…Ultimately – I wanted this to save on cleanup. And it tackled this task amazingly well! But more so it keeps ALL the dust out of the air (and subsequently my lungs!). The whole area feels and smells cleaner. And cleanup is now a 1 minute job – instead of the 30+ mins it used to be (AND sawdust doesn’t get literally EVERYWHERE!!). Not to mention: the vacuum bin is spotless!”

Five star Amazon reviewer, R. Marks, writes, “Good for dust control and keeping your vacuum working. It allows a lot of the dust to drop out before being sucked in the main vacuum. Saves time in the shop.”

Oneida Air Systems verified buyer, Andre B., had this to say: “It works for more than just sawdust. I bought this on a chance that it would work on something other than wood saw dust, and it did not disappoint! I do a lot of router work on foam insulation board for Halloween and Christmas yard decorations. Using just a shop vac would clog my filter in a short time. The Dust Deputy has eliminated my filter clogging. This device collects dust so fine that it statically sticks to the insides of bucket. I don’t quite know the physics behind the Dust Deputy, but it works like magic! I would definitely recommend the DD! No more foam insulation dust everywhere!”

Oneida Air Systems vs. DeWalt, Jet and Mullet

If you’re in the market for a cyclone separator, you’ve likely encountered other popular products from big brands, such as theDeWalt Separator,Jet Cyclonic Separatorand the complete systemMullet Cyclone Separator. I chose Oneida Air Systems Dust Deputy because it’s a well-known brand and made in the USA.

There were mixed reviews online for the Jet, with some customer concerns about clogging. I was able to test the DeWalt Separator, and it has standout features that the Dust Deputy doesn’t have, such as the locking clasps on the lid, which make it more secure and easier to open. The lid on the Dust Deputy is a pop top that either takes a couple of tries or needs abucket toolto open it. The DeWalt Separator has excellent hose storage that fits everything snuggly and securely into the collection bin, and the base includes caster wheels.

Final Verdict

While the DeWalt Separator was a strong contender, I felt that the Dust Deputy was made of stronger material. The see-through feature was a must-have, and the separation efficiency was better, as I had more dust and wood chips left in the Dust Deputy collection bin compared to the other brands.

An affordable upgrade to my dust collection system, the Dust Deputy has saved me time and money on expensive replacement filters and dust bags. The simple design can be adapted to any shop vac or dust collector. It also simplifies waste disposal, holding much more dust and debris than what reaches the vacuum.

Where to Buy the Oneida Dust Deputy

VIA MERCHANT

$119.95 at Amazon

I Tried It

Oneida Air Systems Dust Deputy Deluxe

Our favorite wet/dry vac for all your shop cleaning needs.

$119.95 at Amazon

You can buy the Dust Deputy Deluxe fromAmazonfor a list price of about $120. Numerous Dust Deputy kits in various sizes and configurations to suit different vacuum setups and dust collection needs, ranging in price from around $40 to a stainless steel model for about $1,500, are also available onAmazon. They even have a cyclonic separator just forFestool vacuums.

The post Oneida Dust Deputy Review: Tested by a Professional Woodworker appeared first on Family Handyman.

The drawback? When you have to run pipes, ducts or wires horizontally, you often have to notch or drill holes sometimes big ones into a stud to get them to their destination. But you can’t just drill and saw away. There are rules you have to follow for drilling and notching studs. Some rules help ensure the structural integrity of a wall. Others are aimed at protecting pipes and wires that could be damaged by screws, nails and other fasteners driven into a wall.

There are LOTS of building codes dictating just how large a hole or notch you can cut, and building codes allow you to drill bigger holes and cut bigger notches in non-load-bearing walls than in load-bearing walls.

The technical yet important rules are:

• Holes in bearing wall studs (exterior and interior walls that bear the weight of the roof and/or other stories above) may not exceed 40 percent of the width of the stud.
• Notches in bearing wall studs may not exceed 25 percent of the stud’s width.
• Holes in non-bearing walls can’t exceed 60 percent of their width.
• Notches in non-bearing walls can’t exceed 40 percent of their width.
• The edge of a hole must be at least 5/8 in. from the edge of a stud.

To appease the plumbing gods, building codes have made at least one notable exception: In bearing walls, you can bore 60 percent size holesas long as you double up the studs and don’t drill into more than two successive pairs of these doubled-up studs. This allows you to run a short section of drain, waste, vent (DWV) pipe through a 2×4 wall without beefing up the whole wall to 2×6 dimensions.

There are other, less specific guidelines:

• When possible, notch a stud near the top, rather than the bottom.
• Don’t locate holes and notches near large or loose knots.
• Don’t group too many in the same area of the stud.
• Finally, notch only when necessary; holes weaken it less than notches.

In areas subject to high winds, earthquakes or tornadoes, maintaining wall strength is particularly important. Furthermore, studs with too much meat removed tend to bow and warp. Your building inspector will be on the lookout for overzealous notching and boring, so follow the rules.

In reality, few walls ever out-and-out collapse during everyday duty from being riddled with too many holes and notches. But there are LOTS of cases in which unprotected or inadequately protected pipes and wires have been nicked and punctured by screws and nails. Any plumber or electrician will tell you that’s what you REALLY need to watch out for!

Protect Wires and Pipes

The National Electrical Code requires holes containing non-metallic cable (often called Romex) or flexible metal-clad cable (the type you buy with the wires already in it) be set back 1-1/4 in. or more from the edge of a studto protect the wires from nails and screws. (The 1-1/4-in. screws and nails used to secure 1/2-in. drywall penetrate the studs about 3/4 in.)

Most electricians keep their inspector happy by drilling 3/4-in. holes dead center on a 3-1/2 in. wide stud. This gives them a hole large enough to run two electrical cables and leave 1-3/8 in. of protective wood on each side. If they need to run more wires, they’ll drill more holes directly above the others. If a hole comes any closer than 1-1/4 in., your inspector will make you install a 1/16-in. thick protective metal plate.

The mechanical codes for plumbing and heating, ventilation and cooling (HVAC) systems also dictate that holes containing pipes be set back 1-1/4 in. from the edge of a stud to protect the pipes from fasteners. Those that come closer need to be covered by metal plates; for big pipes, use a long protective plate.

Electricians and plumbers spend lots of time drilling big holes, so they know a few tricks to make the job easier (or avoid it altogether).

Tips for Less Drilling and Notching

1. Before beginning any project, plot out exactly where large pipes and ducts will run and determine how you’ll get them there.
2. Wherever possible, run large pipes and ducts vertically into unfinished attics or basements. Then, install elbows and run the pipe or duct horizontally below the floor joists or above the ceiling joists.
3. Build 2×6 stud walls where DWV pipes and holes exceed the limits described above.
4. Rent a right-angle drill and use Selfeed or hole saw bits for boring large holes. The right angle drill allows you to drill holes square to the stud face. Holes drilled at an angle will wind up oval and therefore larger.
5. Keep the holes centered on the studs and a consistent height off the floor.
6. Drill holes into a stud at least 1/4 in. oversize, especially for hot water pipes. If you don’t, they’ll make annoying sounds as they expand, contract and rub along studs.
7. Joist hanger manufacturers sell wrap-around, stud reinforcer plates. Ask your inspector if they are permissible in special situations.
8. When boring electrical holes, keep them square to the stud for easier wire installation or pulling. This may seem trivial, but angled holes catch the wire and keep you from pulling wire through more than two or three studs at a time. Holes in a linelet you pull wire through an entire wall length of studs at one time.

The post How To Drill Into a Stud appeared first on Family Handyman.

Submit Building Plans

• Make a scale drawing of your plans to submit to your local building inspections department.
  • Note: Your plan should include wall dimensions, window and door sizes, and each room’s purpose (e.g., family, bedroom, etc.) along with any special features like fireplaces. Some rooms may require large windows, called “egress” windows, for fire safety. Ask your building inspector if you need them. Also measure the future finished ceiling height and low-hanging pipes or ducts that’ll lower headroom.
• Sketch the details of the exterior wall construction you intend to use as we show in this article.
  • Pro tip: If you’re uncertain about the best use of space, hire an architect to help with the design.
• If you choose to do your own electrical work, draw up and submit that plan as well.
• With your plan and permit in hand, clear everything out of the basement and you’re ready to go.
  • Pro tip: Walk around the basement with caulk and cans of spray foam and plug every gap you can find between framing and masonry and around pipes or wires that penetrate the rim joist or exterior walls. This is your last chance to seal air leaks from the inside.

The post How to Finish a Basement appeared first on Family Handyman.

The Hedgehog spiral featherboard is a tried-and-tested way to make cuts straight and keep you safe when ripping through wood. With just the right amount of flex, this featherboard is extremely effective at holding boards in place and preventing kickback while using a table saw, router table or band saw. Our behind-the-scenes handyman, Frank Tritschler, tested the Hedgehog for effectiveness, safety, ease of use and durability. Heres what he found out.

What is the Hedgehog featherboard?

The Hedgehog featherboard gives you the control to cut wood with precision. It makes using a table saw safer and keeps your cuts straight. Not only is it perfect for beginners, but it’s also ideal for experienced woodworkers. That’s because the Hedgehog securely holds the board against the fence while keeping your fingers safely out of the way, preventing kickback.

This happy yellow tool is shaped like a hedgehog (hence the name) and made from strong, flexible nylon to help you glide through your projects like a pro. The Hedgehogs feathered spine provides one-way pressure to guide the board and keep cuts straight. The cast aluminum miter clamp fits in a 3/4-inch miter slot on your table saw, router table or band saw. Hedgehog also offers a 5/8-inch miter clamp.

The featherboard has a single pivot point and sets up quickly. It can also be used vertically if your fence has a slot, making it a versatile tool. Plus, when you need to work on the other side of the table, you’re able to reverse the Hedgehog. Simply remove the knob and flip the hardware to the opposite side. It’s that easy!

VIA MERCHANT

$34.99 at Amazon

Shop on Tool Nut

We Tried It

Hedgehog Featherboard

Keep your cuts straight and yourself safe with the Hedgehog spiral featherboard. Get the precision and control you need to saw through your next woodworking project with ease.

$34.99 at Amazon

Shop on Tool Nut

Hedgehog Featherboard Features

Experienced woodworkers call this hedgehog-shaped gadget genius. The single knob is not only fast, its also adaptable for stacking featherboards to cut taller boards with maximum stability. The Hedgehog quickly adjusts to different board widths with the turn of the knob. The minimum reach from the center point is 1 9/16-inches, and the maximum is 6 3/4 inches. If youre cutting long runs, add more than one Hedgehog to your table for increased stability and control.

We Ripped Through a Variety of Boards to Test the Hedgehog Featherboard

Even though I come from a long line of skilled carpenters and handymen, the last time I attempted to use any power saw was when I took woodworking in 4-Htoo long ago to remember the safety rules of power tools. I deferred to the experts in our Family Handyman workshop to let our pros test the Hedgehog spiral featherboard.

We easily attached the Hedgehog featherboard to the 3/4-inch miter slot on the table saw. We used varying widths of wood while working on the table saw, as well as the band saw and router table. The Hedgehog was easy to adjust, putting just the right amount of pressure against the board to hold it in place. The operation was smooth and seamless and, as a result, the cuts were precise and straight. The Hedgehog is like having a third hand to hold the board in place while letting the saw rip through the wood.

Although we didnt have the 5/8-inch miter clamp or the stacking adapter for thicker wood, the Hedgehog performed on par with pricier magnetic featherboards for most tasks.

Pros

• Easy to use
• Protects against kickback
• Ensures straight cuts with one-way pressure
• Reversible
• Stackable for taller boards
• Quick one-knob setup
• Durable nylon construction
• Lightweight and portable
• Affordable

Cons

• May not perform well with uneven boards

FAQ

How do you use a Hedgehog featherboard?

First, insert the miter clamp into the miter slot on the table. Next, position the board firmly against the fence. Move the Hedgehog 2 inches ahead of the saw blade, then rotate the featherboard so that its fingers are flexed to apply pressure to the board. Lastly, tighten the knob. The featherboard guides the wood as you push it toward the blade.

What does a featherboard do on a router?

A featherboard holds the material youre cutting in place. It applies consistent pressure to keep the material flat against the fence of the router table. A featherboard acts as a safety tool that helps prevent kickback from the saw blade, and aides the user in getting a nice straight cut.

What Other Reviewers Had to Say

Out of over 1,600 ratings, the Hedgehog featherboard has an average of 4.6 out of five stars. Here’s what real users have to say about the tool:

Great addition to your table saw. I wish I had purchased long ago,” writes verified purchaser, Tommy Crews. Simple to put on and remove. Adjustment for different size wood is so easy. Highly recommend.

Five-star reviewer, Charles Sandner, writes, This works far easier, and better, than any other of my featherboards. That is key. If they are a pain to adjust, you tend not to use them too much. Safety tools don’t work well if you don’t use them.”

“I bought this now after being introduced to it by a Stumpy Nubs video long ago. I have now used it for a few days and I really enjoy it. Simple one-handed operation as advertised. And far less finicky than my other straight featherboards,” shares Katie, another five-star reviewer.

Hedgehog Featherboard Accessories

You can expand the Hedgehog featherboard capacity with the tall stacking accessory, which connects two featherboards for a total height of 2 1/4 inches for more control over taller boards. If youre not already a Hedgehog owner, grab the bundle with two hedgehogs plus the stacking accessory. And if you need a Hedgehog with a 5/8-inch miter clamp, that’s available, too.

High-end magnetic featherboards cost twice as much as the Hedgehog and may not work on all tables. The Hedgehogs single-knob adjustment sets up with one hand and a quick turn of the knob, making work fast and safeespecially because users claim theyre more likely to use the Hedgehog more often than a featherboard with multiple knobs.

Why You Should Trust Us

As a neophyte woodworker, I consulted our in-house professional handyman, Frank Tritschler, who spends his days building sets, working on remodeling projects, and assisting beginners like me. With over 30 years in the trades, Frank is an invaluable resource when it comes to tools. He kindly showed me the types of featherboards in the workshop, and happily tried the Hedgehog spiral featherboard.

Final Verdict

We were impressed with the effectiveness, durability and ease of use of the Hedgehog featherboard. This $35 tool is a must-have item in any workshop. In fact, having two Hedgehogs on hand isnt a bad idea for taller or longer boards. Even though Frank uses an expensive magnetic featherboard for most of his work, he highly recommends the Hedgehog for entry-level woodworkers and contractors on the go. Its lightweight, easy to operate and has the right amount of flex to keep cuts straight. The single-handed adjustability makes using this featherboard fast and simple.

Where to Buy the Hedgehog Featherboard

Keep yourself safe and your cuts straight with the best featherboard for under $35. Pick up your Hedgehog featherboard (and accessories) at Amazon and Tool Nut and glide through your projects with ease and precision.

$34.99 at Amazon

Shop on Tool Nut

We Tried It

Hedgehog Featherboard

Keep your cuts straight and yourself safe with the Hedgehog spiral featherboard. Get the precision and control you need to saw through your next woodworking project with ease.

$34.99 at Amazon

Shop on Tool Nut

The post We Tried the Hedgehog Featherboard for Straight (and Safe) Cuts on the Table Saw appeared first on Family Handyman.

Best Overall Cordless Brad Nailer

DeWalt 18-Gauge Brad Nailer

If youre looking for an alternative to your cumbersome pneumatic nailer and compressor, look no further. A contractor favorite, the DeWalt 18-gauge cordless brad nailer, features a brushless motor and is compatible with other DeWalt tools with 20-volt batteries. This straight shooter drives nails from 5/8 inches to 2 1/8 inches. The micro nose improves sight lines and ensures a precision hit while the tool-free jam release and depth adjustment dial make quick work of your job. The intuitive design of the low-nail lockout prevents dry firing and the nails are clearly visible in the cartridge. Plus, the DeWalt has onboard lights to indicate low battery or jams.

The Dewalt is capable of single fire or sequential bump fire with the flip of a switch. This finish nailer drove 2-inch brads consistently into solid oak and worked perfectly in our testing. This 18-gauge model weighs in at 10.25 pounds, so its heavier than most, but if youre after long-lasting performance and trouble-free operation, the DeWalt delivers. This best-in-class option comes highly recommended by professionals and DIYers alike.

The tool, charger, battery and branded carrying bag are included in this kit, but the tool is also sold separately if you already own the DeWalt 20-volt battery and charger.

Pros

• Non-marring micro tip for flawless precision
• Drive depth adjustment
• Tool-free jam release
• Low-nail lockout
• Sequential firing option
• Three-year limited warranty

Cons

• Heavier than others at 10.25 pounds

$349 at Home Depot

The post These 10 Best Cordless Brad Nailers Are Worthy Additions to Your Shop in 2024 appeared first on Family Handyman.

Dont Rout the Sides Before the Ends

If you’re planning to rout the ends as well as one or both sides of a board, rout the two ends first. End grain has a tendency to split out as the bit exits the end of the cut, so if you rout the sides first, the split-out will occur on the previously shaped edge. But if you rout the ends first, you’ll cut off any damaged areas when you rout the sides.

The post 6 Tips for Perfect Routed Edges Every Time appeared first on Family Handyman.

Maximize Your Hammer Power

A hammer isn’t the best tool to pull a nail, but since it’s already in your hand, use it. Ram the claw into the nail shank as close as possible to the wood and rock it sideways. Then repeat the process, pulling the nail about 1/2 in. each time. You develop terrific pulling power, enough to extract even those tough cement-coated or galvanized nails, without straining your hammer handle or arm.

Because the hammer claw grabs the nail’s shank, this method usually works even when the nail head has broken off. But it has a couple of drawbacks. The edge of the head will bite into and dent the wood. If you don’t want to mar the surface, slide a 1/4-in.-thick piece of wood under the edge before pulling.

Also, a worn claw might slip on the shank and not deliver any pull. And finally, the pulling power can be so great that the nail shank might break before the nail lets go. At that point, either clip it flush to the wood with a side-cutting pliers and leave it, or saw through it.

The post Pull a Nail That Won’t Budge with These 6 Tips appeared first on Family Handyman.

Best Overall Biscuit Joiner

DeWalt DCW682 20-Volt Biscuit Joiner

After putting a range of biscuit joiners through the paces, the Dewalt DCW682 was the clear winner. This joiner offers cordless convenience, especially ideal for those working at jobsites vs. in a shop. The tool runs on the DeWalt PowerStack 20-volt battery (sold separately), giving you all the amperes (amps) you need and delivering five hours of runtime, which translates to 300 joints or 600 cuts per charge. It’s an excellent option for anyone looking to take on DIY projects at home.

The fence on the Dewalt moves up and down on a rack-and-pinion mechanism, ensuring that the fence stays parallel to the blade for accurate joints every time. Some comparable models have fences that struggle to maintain a parallel plane without further fine-tuning, resulting in misaligned joints. While other biscuit joiners can feel top heavy, this joiner is nicely balanced with the battery acting as a counterweight. The cutting edge height is easy to adjust and the biscuit size dial is very easy to use. The dust collection allows the use of the bag or a vacuum hose.

With a slew of biscuit joiners on the market, Listi chose the DeWalt DW682 for her shop. “It has been an incredible tool that I have used for years on hundreds of projects. It is strong, powerful and does an excellent job on hardwoods and softwoods alike,” she says.

What’s included: The DeWalt comes with the biscuit joiner, pre-installed 4-inch blade, Torx key, wrench, dust bag, angled dust port and comprehensive instruction manual.

Pros

• Cordless convenience
• Rack-and-pinion adjustable fence
• Brushless motor
• Comprehensive manual that details main functions

Cons

• Doesn’t cut face frame biscuits

$200.30 at Amazon

The post The 5 Best Biscuit Joiners, Tested and Reviewed by a Professional Woodworker appeared first on Family Handyman.

The Keter Folding Work Table holds material in place with an integrated clamping system, so you can cut, drill, hang and assemble projects from start to finish. Its heavy-duty construction makes it capable of handling up to 1,000 pounds, yet it’s light enough to load in a truck and store easily. When the job is over, the portable workbench folds into a briefcase shape with an ergonomic handle.

I tested the folding work table myself to guide you through its unpacking and setup processes, key features and overall use. Together, we’ll see if this work table is really worth a spot in your garage.

What is the Keter Folding Work Table?

The Keter Folding Work Table is a helpful workshop assistant with a sturdy and portable design, plus an integrated clamping system to hold material firmly in place while you drill, paint, cut or assemble projects. You can use this workstation as a miter saw stand, to secure boards for cutting or painting or for whatever projects are on your to-do list.

Additionally, the table features a plastic resin construction, which makes it lightweight and weather-resistant yet heavy-duty (since it supports up to 1,000 pounds). I like that it is designed to fold into a 4-1/2 inch thick briefcase shape for easy storage and transport.

VIA MERCHANT

$124.85 at Amazon

Shop on Wayfair

We Tried It

Keter Folding Work Table

A portable, ultra-compact workbench for DIY projects on the go

$124.85 at Amazon

Shop on Wayfair

Keter Folding Work Table Features

The standout features of the Keter Folding Work Table are the guide rails integrated into the worktop and the set of 12-inch ratcheting clamps that can be mounted vertically or horizontally to secure a workpiece. Made of metal and ABS plastic, the sturdy clamps can be stored flush in the table when not in use. A lower shelf offers small storage for tools or other supplies, like a power strip.

What makes this table so sturdy, you may ask? Well, I’d venture to say the wide stance aluminum legs along with side and center supports that lock into place have something to do with it.

How I Tested It

I appreciate a well-engineered product that stores easily in a cramped space. After trying the Keter Folding Work Table, I had to share it with all my woodworking friends. To say I’m impressed is an understatement.

Set up was a breeze. First, I read through the clear, illustrated instructions and practiced setting up and folding the table. I then gave my kids a stopwatch and had them time me to see how long it took to set up the table. My record was 27 seconds! The “locked” button engages each time I set up the tablean extra safety measure to confirm that the center and side supports are in a locked position.

The clamping system is the feature I use most often. I first tested the horizontal clamping by securing a piece of wood to the tabletop and routing butterfly inlay keys. I switched to the horizontal clamps to glue up a cutting board and use it as a hand saw station. Pro tip: I recommend clamping a sacrificial piece of wood to the existing plastic surface so you don’t knick the tabletop.

While I don’t have a project that needs up to 1,000 pounds of support, I tested the table stability by using it as a miter saw station. The sturdy base stayed anchored while running the saw. I used the clamps that come with it to anchor the miter saw to the table. Let me tell you, this portable work table is sturdy!

Finally, I tested to see if portability is as good as the claims make it out to be. Folding up and storing the table is simple, although the clamps are finicky to fit into their slots. The built-in handle sold me on this work table initially, as it makes carrying and setting up so much easier compared to two folding sawhorses with a piece of plywood for a top. I use the table mostly for light work when I know I won’t be somewhere long. It’s so sturdy and solid that I plan to use it for more tasks like arranging parts of a woodworking project, repair work, paint jobs and even grooming my pet.

Pros

• Comes fully assembled
• Quick opening and folding system
• Sturdy carrying handle
• Heavy-duty weight capacity
• Very easy to set up
• Built-in clamps and shelf
• Sturdy, compact design
• Legs fold into the table for flat storage

Cons

• Legs aren’t adjustable on this model

FAQ

How do you use a Keter folding work table?

Using the Keter Folding Work Table is straightforward. The table is designed for portability and ease of use, making it a first choice for various DIY and professional projects.

As a general guideline, you first unfold the table. You do that by picking up the lightweight table and pushing down on the yellow locking mechanism located on each side. This will release the table’s locks, allowing the table to unfold. Next, pull the legs out from underneath the table surface and push in the center and side supports until you see the lock button engaged, confirming that your work table is secure.

After setup, you can clamp your workpiece vertically or horizontally on the tabletop using the guide rail system. The pins on the clamp slide into the guide rail. Pins in the front of the clamp lock it in place. When finished, secure the clamps on the lower shelf, fold the table by releasing the leg locks and push in the center and side supports. The Keter folding table is now briefcase-shaped, ready to be stored away or placed in a car for on-the-go projects.

What are the dimension of the Keter Folding Work Table?

The ample worktop measures 33-1/2 by 21-3/4 inches. When folded, this workbench folds to a 4-1/2-inch tall suitcase shape complete with a handle to easily carry or lift into the back of a vehicle.

What Other Reviewers Had to Say

Out of over 11,850 ratings, the Keter Folding Work Table has an average of 4.7 out of five stars on Amazon. Here’s what reviewers across the Web have to say about the tool:

“The unique (and patented) folding system provides several interlocked supports: two on the side, one in the center. Those fold into place and lock very easily. The main braces connect the upper and lower surfaces. Those, in turn, hold the aluminum legs in places quite rigidly. The net result is the entire table is VERY sturdy and remarkably stable too,” says five star reviewer, G. Conner.

“This work bench is so useful to me in the garage that it just is beyond anything I could have imagined. Fold and unfolds quickly,” writes verified purchaser Sputnik, who rated the Keter five stars for being a well-engineered product.

“I can setup and breakdown the table in seconds, and it also has a shelf underneath for more space. Included are two clamps, with a molded cutout for clamp storage and an integrated track for clamps on the top for stabilizing materials, this work table is great for any use,” says Tyler Homes, owner of Holmes Improvement.

“The best Christmas present I have ever received. The bench is a perfect addition to my work tools. It folds away to a very compact size, is easy to pop into the van and simple to keep clean. The included clamps are very strong and long enough to cover any job I have thrown at it. It is like having a second pair of hands on site,” writes a reviewer on Tool Talk.

Product Comparison

This model has legs that are fixed in height, which makes it very sturdy, but there are situations where you may need a workbench with an adjustable height. For a little more money, Keter offers another model of this workbench that comes with extendable legs that adjust from 30 to 34 inches.

Final Verdict

I’m a professional woodworker, and I love theKeter Folding Work Table. It has handled everything I’ve thrown its way. When the box arrived, the slim profile caught me off guard. I thought it would be a “some assembly required” nightmare, but it comes fully assembled. I opened the box, removed the protective tape and corner padding, read the illustrated instructions and popped it open. The super quick setup meant I unpacked and used the work table in less than a minute. To use the table, you simply push down on two tabs that are located on the top of the tablethis releases the legs, and gravity does the rest. Then, you can lock the legs in place. It’s very easy and fast!

There are high-quality steel and ABS plastic 12-inch clamps included with this table, and they add a lot of value to this work tableespecially considering the price. Although the clamp guides are not as smooth as I’d like, I appreciate the option of securing your material in a vertical or horizontal position. The clamps stow flush and securely so they don’t accidentally fall out. You do have to think about the configuration of the clamp in order for it to fit in the recessed channel, but the trick is to have the trigger end just a touch in front of the back bar stop. It would be great if it was a simpler snap-in system, but the clamps are designed not to fall out.

I highly recommend the Keter work table for a flat portable clamping table and as a work stand for power tools. The working table folds up quickly and easily, and the handle (a feature not found in most comparable models) is a major convenience for transport and storing out of sight.

Where to Buy the Keter Folding Work Table

VIA MERCHANT

$124.85 at Amazon

Shop on Wayfair

We Tried It

Keter Folding Work Table

A foldable work table that stores and travels like dream

$124.85 at Amazon

Shop on Wayfair

Count on this folding work table to serve as an extra set of hands for your next DIY project. Pick up your Keter work table at Amazon with two-day Prime shipping or at Wayfair for $110. Workbench convenience is just a click away.

The post Keter Folding Work Table Review: Tested by a Professional Woodworker appeared first on Family Handyman.

What Is the IKEA Built-In Bookshelf Hack?

Basically, the IKEA built-in bookshelf hack is a process by which Martino creates “built-in” floor-to-ceiling bookcases using IKEA furniture. Instead of constructing the full shelves from scratch, she utilizes IKEA furniture, plywood, trim and paint. This saves her a ton of time, and makes these “built-in” bookshelves doable for even the most amateur woodworker.

How Does Martino Use IKEA Furniture to Make Built-In Bookshelves?

Martino starts by mapping out and measuring her space, then determining how many pieces of IKEA furniture she’d need. For her space, she needed 6 Havsta cabinets, 6 Billy bookcases, and 6 Billy bookcase extensions. From there, she simply assembled the furniture, and stacked it on top of each other against the wall. She first placed the Havsta cabinets down, follows by the bookcase extensions and then the bookcases.

To make the arches, Martino used 1/2-inch sanded plywood affixed directly onto the bookshelves with a nail gun. To further dress up the arches, she added trim then painted the entire built-in bookshelf unit with Backdrop’s Saturday on Sunday paint.

Finally, Martino opted to add a shelf over the door next to the built-in bookshelves, and painted the shelf and doorframe with the same Backdrop paint to fmake the built-in bookshelves look even more cohesive. Check out the final result for yourself below!

@rachmartinoIkea Hack for built in arched bookshelves! I love that we decided to go with an L shaped design it really makes the room feel so special and cozy. We used 6 Havsta cabinets, 6 billy bookshelves 3 shelf version) and 6 billy extensions. What do you think of the final look? Do You Believe in Magic – The Lovin’ Spoonful

What Should I Consider Before Trying the IKEA Built-In Bookshelf Hack?

As with most DIY projects, you need to consider both your space and budget before you dive into this IKEA hack. For space requirements, note that each tall “bookshelf” unit will be approximately 32 inches wide, 18 inches deep and 90 inches tall. Regarding budgets, know that one “bookshelf” will cost $328 in IKEA furniture, plus the plywood, paint, trim and nails. Revamp your old furniture? Learn how to paint IKEA furniture.

If these space and cost requirements feel too limiting, you can always try your hand at building a different style of built-in bookshelf. We love these 33 bookcase projects, as well as this gorgeous showcase built-in. Be sure to also check out these 25 beautiful bookcases for inspiration. With the right materials, instructions and considerations, the perfect reading nook is always within reach!

The post Make Your Own Built-In Bookshelves with This Easy IKEA Hack appeared first on Family Handyman.

Theres nothing like the fresh-air aroma of line-dried clothes. And besides all that freshness, youll lower your energy costs!

You can build this sturdy, long-lasting clothesline yourself with a few tools and a bit of labor digging post holes. Make your clothesline any size you want.

Cutting List

Make the crosspieces

Cut the two crosspieces (A) from one 4×4 post. A circular saw wont cut all the way through a 4×4 in one pass, so mark your line all the way around the post. Make the first cut, then roll the post and make another cut. Continue until the cut is complete.

The post How to Build a Clothesline appeared first on Family Handyman.

The chart below shows the actual dimensions of lumber when it is dry (when wet, it will be slightly larger). This handy chart will help you translate the nominal into the actual (dry). After a while, you’ll get the hang of dimensional lumber sizes.

What Is Dimensional Lumber?

Dimensional lumber simply means that the lumber is pre-cut to standard sizes. You’re probably most familiar with the 2×4, but that’s not the only standard size out there. Other common sizes include 1×3, 2×6, 2×8 and 4×4.

If you’re building something (e.g a deck, framing a wall, etc) you’ll likely want to purchase dimensional lumber rather than spending the extra time getting it cut to size.

Dimensional Lumber Lengths

First of all, you need to know how to read lumber sizes. The first number is always thickness, followed by width. If you see a third number (e.g. 2x4x8), that number is length. Thickness and width are measured in inches, while length is measured in feet. So 2x4x8 is two inches thick by four inches wide, and the board itself is eight feet long.

Nominal vs. actual for wood with 2×4 dimensions

Wood dimension chart

This chart shows the nominal (in name only) and corresponding actual (real) dimensions of common wood sizes like 2×4 dimensions and 1×4 lumber.

Note: You can download and print the chart from Additional Information below.

Additional Information About Lumber Sizes

• Wood dimension chart

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Building sustainably doesnt always involve new and innovative building products. Sometimes it takes a traditional building method, modified to improve energy efficiency. Thats exactly what we did when designing the framing for our Sustainable Retreat.

We wanted to keep it simple and efficient, so we built double 2×4 walls. This double-walled framing technique adds lots of insulation and removes the heat transfer that happens through the studs. This path to sustainable home building succeeds by using a skill anyone can learn, instead of experimenting with a new material.

Frame the outer walls

Begin by building the exterior walls as normal. Start with a top and bottom plate cut to the length of the wall and mark out the 16 inches on-center stud layout, as well as the window locations with jack and king studs.

On a standard roof with a ridge beam, the layout is marked on the top and bottom plate at the same time. On this shed-style type of roof, we laid out the heights of the walls on the floor to transfer the layout to the top plate and get an accurate measurement for each stud.

The post How to Frame a Structure Using Energy-Saving Techniques appeared first on Family Handyman.

Whether its summer or winter, you dont need to go to a resort to enjoy a relaxing soak in an outdoor hot tub. For a relatively small price, you can build this hot tub in your backyard and take a dip whenever the mood strikes. Fill the tub with a garden hose, light a fire to heat the water, hop in and relax!

The Tub

I chose a Rubbermaid 100-gallon stock tank for a few reasons.

First, its deeper than the metal tanks I saw. Second, the plastic itself is a more comfortable temperature in hot or cold weather than metal. Third, its rounded top edges have a larger radius than the edges of metal tanks, so they’re more comfortable to rest your arms on.

Lastly, you’ll find it more comfortable to lean back against the angled ends of the stock tank than the straight sides of a metal tank.

This tank had molded-in brackets for supporting it on a wood frame. I didnt like the look and they would have made it harder to clad the tank, so I cut them off with a multi-tool.

Several molded styles are available, some with ridges, others without. For the purpose of making a hot tub, any style can suffice. The process of insulating will need to be adjusted if you go with a ridge free tub.

The Water Heater

To heat the water, we used a wood-fired thermosyphon heat exchanger. This 3/4-in. stainless steel coil circulates the water without a pump. Its based on natural convection, called thermal siphoning.

Cold water enters at the bottom of the heater and expands. Convection moves the heated water upward, pushing it through the coil and out into the tub. At the same time, the heated water is replaced by cooler water below. So there is no need to wire the hot tub a pile of dry firewood will do.

You can go out and purchase a 60-foot roll of 3/4-in. copper tube and bend a heating coil yourself. But the copper alone costs about the same as this stainless steel coil I found online and had delivered to my doorstep.

Cut the Platform

Set the stock tank upside-down diagonally on one end of a 4- by 8-ft. sheet of plywood. This lets you get the platform and a tub cover from one sheet.

With your pencil at a slight angle as shown, trace around the perimeter of the stock tank. Cut out the platform with a jigsaw. Cut the cover the same size.

The post How to Build a Wood-Fired Hot Tub appeared first on Family Handyman.

Introduction

Trying to organize the utensil drawer in your kitchen? You could buy a tray to hold everything, but chances are it’ll be too big or too small. Here’s a better idea: Build a custom drawer organizer to fit your utensils and your drawer.

Project Overview

Divide the Drawer

On the table saw, rip two pieces of 1/2-inch plywood so they’re one inch shorter than the height of the drawer. Cut one to length to fit the depth of the drawer, and the other six inches shorter than the width. Fasten them together with 1-1/2-inch trim screws to form a T-shape. Then position the T-shape inside the drawer and fasten it in place through the side and back.

The post How to Make Your Own Silverware Drawer Organizer appeared first on Family Handyman.

Project Overview

If youre short on bedroom closet space or need someplace to hang your outerwear near the front door, here’s a great clothing rack you can build yourself. It’s practical and stylish, featuring a shelf to place your bags and a nook underneath to tuck away your shoes and boots. You can build this with basic tools and materials found at your local home center.

Cutting List

Fit the Base

Cut four 2×2s to length with a 16-degree angle on one end. These are the vertical supports (A) that hold the hanger rod in position. For the bottom braces (B), cut two more 2×2s with the same 16-degree angle on both ends.

Fit one vertical support to the bottom brace, then position the second vertical support on top and flush with the other end of the bottom brace. Fasten the parts together at the bottom with wood glue and trim screws.

The post How to Build a Wooden Clothing Rack appeared first on Family Handyman.

Before You Start

Adding an egress window is a big job, and its important to plan your project to meet the building requirements in your location. Here are the steps I took before starting to excavate:

Apply for a permit

This process could take a few weeks. My city required detailed plans of the well, the dimensions of the window and rough opening, the size of the header and a drawing of the property, including the house.

Engineered drawing

The retaining walls that made up our well were tall enough to require an engineers approval. I sent my plans to a local engineer who gave me a new drawing with a stamp of approval to include with my permit application. If you buy a manufactured well, this step is likely unnecessary, but your citys building department makes the final call.

Call the digging hotline

When youre digging, even just a few inches, call to have underground utilities located and marked.

Digging is dangerous if you dont know where the utilities are. If you skip this step and hit a gas, water, or power line underground, youll risk the lives of yourself and others, and youll be on the hook for the costly repairs. So be sure to call 811 before your project. The process varies by state, so call a few days ahead of your project.

Requirements for Egress Windows

Here are the minimum requirements identified by the building code:

• The opening needs to be 5.7 square feet.
• The minimum width is 20 inches.
• The minimum height is 24 inches.
• The well needs to provide a clear space of 3-ft. x 3-ft. when the window is open.
• From the inside, the sill height cannot exceed 44 inches

Dig the Window Well

Following my plans, I drew the window well location with marking paint. I rented a mini excavator to make the digging much easier. It was well worth the $450 to avoid hand digging.

Have a plan for the dirt you’re removing; it will be more than you anticipate. We took the nearly 10 cubic yards of dirt to a nearby compost site.

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